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Introducing - The Kurono Tokyo Calendrier “Small Batch Release” in Saxe Blue Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Calendrier “Small Batch Release” Yesterday

Introducing - The Kurono Tokyo Calendrier “Small Batch Release” in Saxe Blue

Hajime Asaoka, the celebrated Japanese master watchmaker, is renowned for his bespoke, high-end handmade watches. Aware that his pieces are beyond the reach of most mortals, Asaoka created Kurono Tokyo, a small independent brand that offers more accessible watches with Seiko or Miyota movements, imbued with a strong Japanese spirit. However, Kurono’s success means its […]

First Look - The Blancpain Lady B, a Small, Spherical and yet Mechanical Wrist-Worn Jewel Monochrome
Blancpain Lady B Yesterday

First Look - The Blancpain Lady B, a Small, Spherical and yet Mechanical Wrist-Worn Jewel

With its motto of never producing quartz watches, its manufacturing capabilities and its rich heritage in dive watches, Blancpain is often spontaneously associated with technical, masculine watchmaking. But this overlooks an important chapter in the brand’s history. In the middle of the 20th century, its development was driven by Betty Fiechter, a remarkable figure at […]

Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock Fratello
Ressence s New Type 9 Yesterday

Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock

Recently, Lex wrote an article asking, “When are watches art?” Of course, there wasn’t a clear answer, as “art” is often an ungraspable concept. However, every once in a while, Benoît Mintiens makes the dial of a Ressence watch available to an artist dear to the Belgian brand. In doing so, he tries to blur […] Visit Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models Fratello
Rolex Models When it comes Yesterday

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models

When it comes to vintage watches, few brands have as much depth as Rolex. Over more than a century, the company has produced an enormous range of models, references, and variations that have become firmly established among collectors. From tool watches built for specific purposes to understated everyday models, there’s plenty to explore beyond the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models to read the full article.

Photo Report: Geneva Watch Days 2026 Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Girard Perregaux MB&F; 2 days ago

Photo Report: Geneva Watch Days 2026

I'll admit it, Geneva Watch Days is one of my favourite times in the city. It's when our industry reunites after a long, heatwave-themed summer to meet friends from all corners of the watch world and get hands-on with the latest pieces from some of the hottest and most interesting brands. And that's the thing about this summer show: while Watches & Wonders draws our attention to the larger players, Geneva Watch Days lets us take a breather, slow this rapidly moving industry right down, and spend time with watches and brands of all sizes. Don't get me wrong, Bvlgari, Zenith, Daniel Roth, Girard Perregaux, MB&F;, and Breitling attend, but its city-centered format and later date on the calendar mean there's much more time to see smaller names and discover new ones. The 2026 edition set a new record with 71 participating brands, unveiling nearly 400 new releases. More than 2,500 private clients, collectors, and watch enthusiasts attended, alongside more than 500 international media and content creators. However, this year's edition drew 15,000 people in total, down from last year's peak of 17,000. News from the brands exhibiting was certainly plentiful and felt increasingly significant compared to previous iterations of the show (Breitling's House of Brands used the show to unveil Gallet to the world, and MAD Editions by MB&F; announced the MAD 3 - more on those in a moment). Yet on more than one occasion, conversations centered around how the show felt a little quieter than pre...

Singer Reimagined Keeps The GMT Hits Coming With The 1970 DualTrack Fratello
Ming 2 days ago

Singer Reimagined Keeps The GMT Hits Coming With The 1970 DualTrack

About two weeks ago, during Geneva Watch Days, I visited the Singer atelier in Geneva. It’s a beautiful place, slightly hidden on a street near the lake, where Singer Reimagined works on its watches. There, I got a first glimpse of what the brand introduced today — the Singer Reimagined 1970 DualTrack. The Singer Reimagined […] Visit Singer Reimagined Keeps The GMT Hits Coming With The 1970 DualTrack to read the full article.

Introducing - The new Glashütte Original 70s Collection, a Reworked Take on the Integrated Sports Watch Monochrome
Glashütte Original 70s Collection 2 days ago

Introducing - The new Glashütte Original 70s Collection, a Reworked Take on the Integrated Sports Watch

While Glashütte Original‘s Seventies collection has become associated with its bold, square-shaped chronographs, the German manufacture also once offered Seventies Panaroma Date models without the chronograph function. Revisiting the decade with a substantially reworked watch, the brand returns to that time-and-date simplicity and presents the new 70s collection of integrated sports watches, alongside the existing […]

In-Depth - The new Rolex Perpetual Padellone, The Return of an Icon now with Annual Calendar and Dynapulse (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Rolex Perpetual Padellone 3 days ago

In-Depth - The new Rolex Perpetual Padellone, The Return of an Icon now with Annual Calendar and Dynapulse (Incl. Video)

It is not often that Rolex introduces a new watch outside of the industry’s main exhibition, Watches and Wonders (or Baselworld before it). In fact, in recent years, it has only happened on very rare occasions, such as the release of the Daytona Le Mans, the record-breaking Deepsea Challenge in titanium or the Deepsea D-Blue […]

Auctions: Six Observations From Sotheby's September 18 Hong Kong Sale Hodinkee
Ming 3 days ago

Auctions: Six Observations From Sotheby's September 18 Hong Kong Sale

Ready or not, auction season is back. I don't know about you, but I wasn't expecting it so soon. While the auction cycle is generally synced up for Geneva and New York sales a bit later in the fall, Sotheby's is doing the earliest big sale of the fall with "Important Watches" in Hong Kong on September 18.  Personally, I'm still working through the best way to handle auction coverage, as the number of watches is often daunting. That challenge gets worse with Hong Kong sales, which we've generally struggled to stay on top of for a number of reasons. One of which, and this is a complaint for all auction houses, is that there are too many lots in Hong Kong sales. This is driven by both the market location (many of these watches were sourced locally—something I know because I know a decent number of these watches) and the forces behind the auction house and its metrics. Sometimes you have to make sellers happy and take what they want to get at other things (like taking random Hermès bags in a watch sale, as we see this time). It can be overwhelming for a buyer, and for you and me as readers. I want to find the interesting, great deals in the mid- and low-range and share them with you, but I also can't ignore the impressive pieces that might shape the broader market. One important note: for Hong Kong sales, I never get to see the watches in person. It's a lot easier for me to stand in front of a case of watches and pick things up by feel, closely evaluate condition and origi...

First Look - IWC Celebrates 50 Years Of The Genta-Designed Ingenieur SL With Two Ingenieur Automatic Limited Editions Monochrome
IWC Celebrates 50 Years 3 days ago

First Look - IWC Celebrates 50 Years Of The Genta-Designed Ingenieur SL With Two Ingenieur Automatic Limited Editions

Birthdays are to be celebrated, so it’s no surprise IWC Schaffhausen honours the 50th anniversary of one of its most pivotal watches, the Ingenieur SL. Introduced in 1976 and penned by Gérald Genta, the Ingenieur SL was one of the early adopters of the integrated sports watch ethos. Lasting until the late 1990s, the Ingenieur […]

Introducing - DUG Glashütte Brings Compact 37mm Editions of its Purist Collection Monochrome
3 days ago

Introducing - DUG Glashütte Brings Compact 37mm Editions of its Purist Collection

Founded by Toni Brodführer, DUG Glashütte focuses on producing watches in accordance with the requirements of the Glashütte designation of origin, and the inaugural Purist was conceived as a straightforward proposition built around the traditions of Saxon watchmaking. The brand is now expanding the collection with a smaller case. The new Purist 37 retains the […]

Modern Venetian Elegance Gets A Name: The Venezianico Redentore Levius Fratello
Venezianico Redentore Levius Venezianico has 3 days ago

Modern Venetian Elegance Gets A Name: The Venezianico Redentore Levius

Venezianico has been raising the bar constantly with its varied collection of watches. While my favorites from the Venetian brand are in the Arsenale collection, we have seen some impressive developments in the Bucintoro and Redentore lines. The high-end models in those two show the brand’s interesting progress with Italian-made calibers and special dials. With […] Visit Modern Venetian Elegance Gets A Name: The Venezianico Redentore Levius to read the full article.

Benrus Brings Its Military History into the Modern Era with the New Type 3X Collection Worn & Wound
Ming part 4 days ago

Benrus Brings Its Military History into the Modern Era with the New Type 3X Collection

The Benrus Type I and Type II are among the category of iconic military watches that first took root in the 1940s around WWII with the famous Dirty Dozen. The Type I and II are an extension of this lineage with designs that met the U.S. military’s formal specifications for wristwatches better known as MILSPEC during the Vietnam War in the 1970s and later throughout the special operations community, particularly among CIA paramilitary forces, Navy SEAL, and UDT teams conducting maritime missions. Benrus has kept this piece of horological history alive in its contemporary catalog, with modern interpretations of both models becoming part of the brand’s permanent collection in the new millennium. Now, that legacy continues with a brand new twist and a brand new collection: the Type 3X. Today, the needs of military forces look very different than decades ago when the Type I and Type II were originally developed. Technology has transformed warfare, but there’s still a need for simple, dependable tools that work if technology fails. This sparked a simple question among a group of former special operations veterans: what would a modern version of the Type I and Type II look like if it was designed by the people who actually use it? Instead of beginning in a design studio, the project started the way many special operations ideas do – around a table, with this small group of individuals who had spent their careers solving problems in demanding environments. Their approach w...

Experience The Charm Of Contemporary Watchmaking At Milano Watch Week 2026 Fratello
4 days ago

Experience The Charm Of Contemporary Watchmaking At Milano Watch Week 2026

Watch events are popping up left and right, and that’s good, especially when they’re open to the public. Milano Watch Week 2026 is one such horological happening. The event brings 55 brands to Milan and aims to introduce the public to watches and brands that are often difficult to encounter in everyday life. The program […] Visit Experience The Charm Of Contemporary Watchmaking At Milano Watch Week 2026 to read the full article.

Three Times Tudor Got The Design Brief Completely Right Fratello
Tudor Got 4 days ago

Three Times Tudor Got The Design Brief Completely Right

After writing about Tudor’s habit of arriving at a genuinely excellent design and then quietly undercutting it, it felt only fair to go looking for counterexamples. I wanted to find watches that show Tudor committed fully, finished the thought, and ended up with something that competes on its own terms rather than gesturing at somebody […] Visit Three Times Tudor Got The Design Brief Completely Right to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Michel Nydegger SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey seems 4 days ago

SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Michel Nydegger

With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority. Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches. We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D; is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker secretly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Is A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia 36 Annual Calendar The Best Dress Watch Ever? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
A. Lange & Sohne 5 days ago

Is A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia 36 Annual Calendar The Best Dress Watch Ever? (Hands-On)

A. Lange & Söhne put their best foot forward at Watches & Wonders 2026, but does it hit all their exacting standards? Let’s find out! What We Love: A compact watch that makes its presence known Legible despite its size Highly complex & beautifully finished What We Don’t: Little negative space; a consequence of compaction Date corrector disrupts symmetry Would you request the price? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality:9.5/10 Of all the richness within German watchmaking, A. Lange & Söhne could be considered the most emblematic of the region. The veritable golden boy of German horology, it has often been cited as the mainstream leader in what best comprises the country’s ethos around mechanics and craftsmanship. Depending on who you ask, the history of the brand does get fuzzy, though not for any fault of their own. The realities of the Second World War, Soviet occupation, and consolidation under the Iron Curtain may never unscramble Glashütte’s complex past. What cannot be questioned, however, is the quality of work A. Lange & Söhne routinely produces. It’s why they’re often cited as the first step into luxuriously acquired taste, the first bold venture beyond the grip of the Swiss or Japanese industries, opening the veritable Pandora’s box that is haute horlogerie. As of late, though, they’ve even been shirking that archetype, rising to compete as one of the greatest watch brands around, regard...

Hands-On: The Tudor Northflag Hodinkee
Tudor Northflag It's been Sep 11, 2026

Hands-On: The Tudor Northflag

It's been a big year for Tudor. The brand is in the midst of a major anniversary celebration, with 2026 marking 100 years since Hans Wilsdorf filed the first paperwork that eventually led to Tudor's creation. Appropriately, that anniversary has been the dominant story this year, and it was reflected in their major novelty for Watches & Wonders 2026: the Tudor Monarch. That watch was, I think, largely a successful launch for the brand, and the supporting releases, though subtle, were meaningful and (in some cases) necessary. Still, for those of us who find ourselves generally drawn to Tudor's more utilitarian offerings, it was easy to feel a little overlooked coming out of Watches & Wonders. That changed last week with the launch of the new Northflag. The new watch is an update on the North Flag from 2015, and is aimed squarely at those looking for a compelling everyday adventure and exploration–ready watch. It does that, but it also brings the same maturity that has begun to permeate the Tudor lineup. But more on that in a minute, because before we talk about the Northflag, I want to talk about the North Flag (I know, vaguely confusing), and to do that, I need to talk about anniversaries. The Tudor North Flag I'm on record in several places as having my doubts about whether this was really the year for Tudor to mark the 100-year milestone. An even cursory look at Tudor's history quickly reveals that, while the Tudor wordmark may have been trademarked in 1926, and while e...

Enthusiast Spotlight: Chris Sohl Dives Into the Soul of the All-New Certina DS Super PH2000M Worn & Wound
Certina DS Super PH2000M Sep 11, 2026

Enthusiast Spotlight: Chris Sohl Dives Into the Soul of the All-New Certina DS Super PH2000M

For Chris Sohl—or simply Sohl, as most folks know him—watches and diving have always been intertwined. He got into both around the same time in 2015, discovering that each offered the same combination of history, adventure, technical detail, and, perhaps most importantly, an endless rabbit hole to explore. Nearly a decade later, he’s a technical diver, devoted dive-watch enthusiast, and self-described “Nerd Shepherd,” bringing people together around the things they love. In this edition of Enthusiast Spotlight, we caught up with Sohl to talk about his path into technical diving, the watches he trusts underwater, his most memorable dives, and why sometimes the best tool is the one that’s wildly overqualified for the job. Finally, we got Sohl’s first impressions of Certina’s new DS Super PH2000M, deep-water dive watch.  Tell us a little bit about yourself and how you first got into diving. I’m a landlocked, scuba diving family man in Louisville, Kentucky, and a real big nerd about a lot of things. I find great joy in bringing people together over shared passions, especially watches and diving, and organizing the pursuit. I recently coined the label “Nerd Shepherd,” which I think captures what I’ve been up to for the past several years pretty well, from administering The Grey NATO podcast’s TGN Crew Slack, to organizing dives with friends across the watch enthusiast community. I got into watches and diving separately by chance, just months apart bac...

First Look - The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art with Double Inclined Tourbillon Monochrome
Sep 11, 2026

First Look - The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art with Double Inclined Tourbillon

Indie brand ArtyA, founded by Yvan Arpa, is known for its expressive designs and technically ambitious watches, often combining traditional craftsmanship with an unmistakably contemporary attitude. Earlier this year, the brand presented the Complexity, a spectacular mechanical piece with a world-first architecture of two inclined tourbillons at 12 and 6 o’clock, connected by a differential. […]

Alpina Expands their Solar Quartz Offerings with New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre References Worn & Wound
Citizen Group who Sep 10, 2026

Alpina Expands their Solar Quartz Offerings with New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre References

As part of their Geneva Watch Days presentation, Alpina unveiled several new solar quartz references in their Solarmetre line, which effectively places solar quartz movements made by La Joux-Perret in familiar Alpina references. It’s about the most natural move possible from a business perspective. Alpina and La Joux-Perret are both owned by the Citizen Group, who of course make Citizen watches and have been leaning heavily into solar quartz technology for years. The Alpina watches sit at a higher price point than the average Citizen, so the expansion of solar quartz across Alpina’s collection naturally begins an interesting conversation about value for enthusiasts who might have an interest in both brands.  The core of the release last week would have to be a trio of new Startimer Pilot Solarmetre watches. These are solar quartz powered versions of the still new Alpina pilot watch introduced earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. I think the value here is in the particular way these watches take advantage of the smaller La Joux-Perret quartz movement compared to their mechanical counterparts. The mechanical versions of these watches measure 40mm in diameter and a hair over 10mm tall, while the Solarmetre watches come in at 38mm wide and 9.3mm thick. That’s a meaningful difference in size, with the added grab and go benefits of solar quartz (Alpina says the AL-140 movements here will run for 10 months in total darkness, and of course it doesn’t take much light to...

Hands-On: The Pattern Recognition B-Theory Series 1 Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Sep 10, 2026

Hands-On: The Pattern Recognition B-Theory Series 1

About a year ago—or maybe two—I remember sitting in an Uber with Ben and some of the Hodinkee team as we drove down the Rue de Lausanne in Geneva, heading to Watches & Wonders. We had just grabbed a quick breakfast when Michael Friedman unexpectedly joined us. Yes, that Michael Friedman. The "AP, Michael Friedman, my friend's cooler" rap lyric guy. The guy who just so happened to have also formerly been a curator at the Willard House & Clock Museum and the National Watch & Clock Museum, Head of Watches at Christie's New York, a client advisor to people like Eric Clapton (during his pièce unique Patek years), and most recently the Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet. Okay, maybe you don't know Michael Friedman. But I knew him well and had some formative early-career experiences bumping into and getting to know him. I also knew he was working on a new brand, but had absolutely zero idea what it was. "It's wild," said Ben—or some approximation of that. "It's not so much a watch as a cuff, with a bunch of diamonds." What could that even mean? I had ideas in my head, but as they spiraled, they got further from the truth. As of a few months ago, we have the answer, and it's not what I had envisioned. The B-Theory Series 1 from Friedman's new brand Pattern Recognition is, as Ben said, far from a watch in most respects, but closer than I expected. Yes, it's jewelry. There are diamonds. And yet it's got the bona fides of technical watchmaking and connections with the pa...

First Look - Panerai Celebrates 100 Years in Florence with the Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01734 and PAM01794 Monochrome
Panerai Celebrates 100 Years Sep 10, 2026

First Look - Panerai Celebrates 100 Years in Florence with the Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01734 and PAM01794

In 2026, Panerai celebrates 100 years of its boutique in Piazza San Giovanni, Florence. Originally opened in 1926 as “Orologeria Svizzera”, the boutique became an important part of the Panerai family’s history, a place where watches were sold but also assembled and repaired. The preserved location, reopened to the public in 2001 following the renovation, […]

Recommended Reading: "Bubble Backs" By Masahiro Endo Is An Education On The Original Rolex Collectors' Watch Hodinkee
Rolex Collectors Watch If you've Sep 10, 2026

Recommended Reading: "Bubble Backs" By Masahiro Endo Is An Education On The Original Rolex Collectors' Watch

If you've never collected Rolex Bubblebacks before, you should probably forget nearly everything you know about vintage watches. At least, that's what it feels like you should do when you start wading into the space. Things like reference numbers are much less valuable to remember than movements, case designs, printing details, and a general ability to just remember everything you've seen to get a sense of feel for what is right and what isn't. And trust me, a lot isn't. You could spend decades looking at these watches, but "Bubble Back" by Masahiro Endo, the owner of vintage retailer Private Eyes in Tokyo, is a great reference to jump-start your understanding of an iconic (and currently underappreciated) model. I mentioned this in last week's review of John Nagayama's "96," but the only watch I'd be more afraid to deep-dive into than the Patek ref. 96 is the Rolex "Bubbleback." It's not even an official model, but a nickname for Rolex watches made from 1933 to the mid-1950s with a domed, "bubble-like" caseback. So when you open Endo-san's book, you'll probably immediately be struck by the fact that none of the examples (except the later ref. 6062 and ref. 8171) have reference numbers. According to collectors, that's not the most useful thing for understanding the Bubbleback. Basically, every other detail matters more. We've previously published a story about the bubbleback with a lot of thoughts and tips for understanding these models, courtesy of Ken Jacobs and Justin Gr...

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [August 2026] Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Deep Sep 10, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [August 2026]

Two weeks ago, we managed to fit in one more Hodinkee Happy Hour before summer slips away. We gathered at the Watches of Switzerland store in SoHo, where friends old and new escaped the rain to enjoy an evening of good conversation, food from Upside Pizza, and beer from our local friends at Grotta. Despite the weather, the turnout—for both people and watches—did not disappoint. If you made it out that night, thank you for coming. Please note that the next Hodinkee Happy Hour won't be until October, so please keep an eye on the site and our Instagram for the October RSVPs. Until then, scroll through the photos below for a recap of the night and to see some cool watches. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, sporting a Doxa Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition t-shirt.  A vintage Movado Triple Calendar. An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding with a blue "Grande Tapisserie" dial. A Sinn T50 titanium diving watch and a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona with a black dial and contrasting subdials. F.P. Journe Octa Automatique Réserve De Marche. From left to right: a Doxa Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition, a Rolex Daytona Ref. 16520 with a "Patrizzi" dial from 1996, and a Grand Seiko. From top to bottom: a Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator Ref. 5235G, a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Deep Stream," and an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15510 ST Green Dial from 2022. Rolex Zenith Daytona Ref. 16520 "Arabic prototype." From top to bottom: the Rolex Zenith Dayto...