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Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials SJX Watches
Dec 12, 2025

Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials

Biver expands its Automatique line with a diverse set of new dials that underscore the brand’s fascination with permanence, ranging from billion-year-old mineral stones to finely executed enamel and traditional guilloché. In a year crowded with stone-dial releases, the latest Automatique models stand out for the coherence of the concept and the quality of execution, offering collectors a mix of exotic materials, artisanal craft, and a technically unusual calibre across a wide price spectrum. Initial thoughts Jean-Claude Biver talks a lot about eternity. The slogan for his namesake brand, “eternity has no competition”, is an eloquent expression of what drives the Biver family enterprise, founded with his son Pierre and now led by chief executive James Marks. Beyond the ability to keep time, mechanical watches appeal to enthusiasts precisely because they seem to exist outside of time. Few modern products are crafted from such noble or enduring materials, and for many people a mechanical watch is among the most lasting man-made objects they will ever encounter. Biver’s obsession with eternity is clear in the products themselves. In the case of the Automatique, the brand has chosen to use especially long-lasting materials like gold for the movement plates and bridges, going so far as to used a high-palladium gold alloy that will not tarnish over time. The overly robust cases are another clue as to the motivations of the people behind the Biver brand. Water resistant t...

Elemental Beauty: Exotic Stone Dials for the Biver Automatique SJX Watches
Piaget stone dials have outgrown Nov 19, 2025

Elemental Beauty: Exotic Stone Dials for the Biver Automatique

Stone dials have become an increasingly visible trend in recent years; once rare, they are now widespread. Yet most rely on a handful of familiar minerals such as malachite, lapis lazuli, and tiger’s eye, leaving little room for novelty. Biver has taken a different approach with the Automatique, offering a far broader and more exotic palette of materials that includes mahogany obsidian, quartzite, and lavender jade-alongside traditional enamel dials crafted by Geneva’s leading specialists. While the new dials take centre stage, the Automatique itself is largely unchanged, and still features one of the most technically interesting movements in the genre of high-end time-only watches. Initial thoughts Mineral stone dials seem to be everywhere these days. Once the domain of brands like Piaget, stone dials have outgrown their niche and become common enough that a cottage industry of suppliers has emerged to supply them at nearly all price points; even Timex offers malachite dials. But most brands are using the same handful of stone types like malachite, tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli, and other semi-precious, but actually quite common, minerals. This is where Biver goes its own way, offering a diverse and unusual selection of stone and enamel dials, along with a few ‘ordinary’ dials for more conservative collectors. In total, 11 new references join the collection, and each has the option for a precious metal bracelet that matches the case material. As a watch, the Autom...

[VIDEO] Living the Life Exotic: A Year and a Half with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto I’ve Sep 22, 2024

[VIDEO] Living the Life Exotic: A Year and a Half with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto

I’ve spent a lot of time with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto on my wrist over the last year and a half or so. I was lucky enough to pick one up at launch, so I only had to wait a few days before this incredibly special, unexpected, and ultimately charming watch ended up in my possession. Any enthusiast can relate to the incredible excitement of getting a new watch, but we also all know it can be a bit misleading. The honeymoon period, as it’s often referred to, is where you see your new acquisition with nothing but adoration. But, as any enthusiast is also aware, this feeling can fade over time, and that watch you once thought was the greatest thing on Earth begins to lose its appeal. Perhaps it’s a touch larger than you wanted it to be, or the crown annoys you, or it’s just too damn shiny. Whatever it is, you start wearing other watches more and more, and before you know it, that watch you thought you’d love forever is on your “willing to sell” list. The point of this story is that the C1 Bel Canto wasn’t like this. The joy and excitement I got when first putting it on have remained present for the entirety of my ownership thus far. While a new watch or two (just kidding, so many more than that) have entered and exited my collection since, the C1 Bel Canto has remained in constant rotation. It’s easily one of my favorite watches because it does more than most of my watches. Not in terms of functionality, though; yes, it’s the only watch I own that c...

Nivada Introduces a Titanium F77, and Adds Some Exotic Dials to the Collection Worn & Wound
Apr 8, 2024

Nivada Introduces a Titanium F77, and Adds Some Exotic Dials to the Collection

When Nivada relaunched the F77, the brand’s long dormant integrated bracelet sports watch, it landed with a positive reception but was, maybe, seen as a little unremarkable. It paid tribute to the original, maintaining its sleek 37mm case and a sporty profile, but didn’t really do a whole lot to set itself apart from the many other integrated bracelet sports watch options out there. Now, with the second F77 collection hitting just a year later, Nivada has tried something genuinely different for watches in this category, putting a much greater emphasis on the dial, offering a range of choices that approach the exotic. The watch is also now in a new metal, titanium, that will perhaps make it that much more desirable to those looking for an alternative to more common watches in this style.  The “basket weave” dial motif that was introduced in last year’s launch returns here but in just one of the four variants Nivada will be making available. The anthracite gray execution of the titanium F77 is the most straightforward of the new models, and the one that’s most closely linked to previous versions. The real story here though is in those other three dial variants. Nivada will be offering the F77 in meteorite, lapis lazuli, and aventurine, with the general idea being that the brand is both “looking skyward” and “breaking new ground” with dials evoking deep space as well as the earth itself. That’s clever marketing, but it’s backed up in this case by Niva...

We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing… Time+Tide
Nov 13, 2020

We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing…

The 20th annual GPHG was streamed and broadcast live, with digital spectators tuning in around the world to see who would win what some refer to as “the Oscars” of watchmaking. Each year, an academy of industry experts, journalists and influencers is assembled to determine the nominees for these prestigious awards – with 30 of … ContinuedThe post We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Look - Yema Unveils a New Dress Watch Collection with the Senans Grand Lune CMM.22 Monochrome
Yema Unveils 6h ago

First Look - Yema Unveils a New Dress Watch Collection with the Senans Grand Lune CMM.22

Founded in 1948 by Henry-Louis Belmont in Morteau, France, Yema made a name for itself as a producer of ultra-reliable purpose-built tool watches. Its iconic 1963 Superman watch, for example, was a heavy-duty instrument watch for professional divers, while the Flygraf chronograph was geared for pilots. Under Ambre France since 2009, Yema’s mission is to […]

Serica Introduces the 8315-3 Golden Green Travel Chronometer Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces 9h ago

Serica Introduces the 8315-3 Golden Green Travel Chronometer

French microbrand Serica has toiled since 2019 to create an aesthetic that makes their watches instantly recognizable—rounded design elements with precise proportions, even wildly varying models like their field watch, diver, and stadium-shaped Parade contain unifying hallmarks: carefully considered dial balance, 1970s-esque styling, and prominent bezel designs all signal a Serica timepiece. Over the past seven years, they’ve continued to refine their watches from a mechanical standpoint, too, introducing complications and added robustness to withstand tool watch duties. The 8315 line of GMT models is perhaps their most function-forward design, first debuting in 2022. Like most Serica watches, it favors a cleanly balanced dial, meaning no date function—ideal for a travel watch, which is the intended use of the 8315, earning it the “Travel Chronometer” name. Now, Serica unveils a slick new colorway for the popular model: Golden Green.  The 8315-3 Golden Green doesn’t purport to be a grand deviation from the Travel Chronometer formula. In fact, it bears the same internals and basic design as its line-mates, primarily the Swiss chronometer-certified Soprod C125 automatic movement, which allows for 42 hours of power reserve and 200 meters of water resistance. This movement powers the GMT hand and “caller” GMT function. This gives it a simpler use case than the more complicated local jumping “flyer” GMT seen in watches like the Tudor Black Bay GMT; basicall...

Auctions: The 2026 Geneva Fall Auctions Mega-Preview, Part 2 - Phillips, Sotheby's, And Marteau & Co. Hodinkee
Rolex ref 6062 Stelline Photo 10h ago

Auctions: The 2026 Geneva Fall Auctions Mega-Preview, Part 2 - Phillips, Sotheby's, And Marteau & Co.

Earlier this week, we tackled two of the four auctions taking place in Geneva this week (and into next). Now we tackle the last two—Phillips and Sotheby's—which will round out to around 1200 watches that I’ll have looked at to consider for coverage. Have I missed some deals? Certainly. Are there maybe one or two watches that don’t quite look as nice in person as they do in pictures? Yes, again, I’m sure. That's part of why I’m in Geneva this week, taking a look at as many previews as I can. As I said before, if I see anything worth noting, I’ll update my story, but I’ll skip further exposition and get right into the watches. Phillips — November 7th and 8th, 2026 Okay, so I’m in Geneva this week, mainly for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, but in a great twist, Phillips starts off the action with their auctions starting the same morning of the GPHG awards ceremony that evening. That means I get to start the day watching bidding at Phillips before heading to the hotel to throw on a suit and party the night away. What more could you want? A fresh-to-market, essentially single owner Rolex ref. 6062 "Stelline." Photo courtesy Phillips. Well, there’s a lot I could want at Phillips, starting with this amazing Rolex ref. 6062 “Stelline” that is fresh to market. This watch, with an estimate in excess of CHF 600,000, is one of the nicest, most honest yellow gold ref. 6062s I’ve seen in a long time, and the consignor bought it from the original ow...

Fratello Talks: Recent Shifts In The Watch Industry Fratello
19h ago

Fratello Talks: Recent Shifts In The Watch Industry

The watch industry is constantly changing, whether through new product launches, shifting ownership structures, or brands reassessing their place in the market. Some developments have implications that go well beyond a single release. They can influence a brand’s direction, its identity, and the watches it chooses to make. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Jorg, […] Visit Fratello Talks: Recent Shifts In The Watch Industry to read the full article.

Moser Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in their Heritage Collection Worn & Wound
H. Moser Yesterday

Moser Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in their Heritage Collection

If you’re anything like me, when you think of H. Moser the watches that come to mind are colorful, skew toward the avant-garde, and very much in the category of “contemporary.” It’s easy to forget sometimes that Moser traces its origins back to 1828, and there’s been a lot of watchmaking history that has passed through the many references issued under the Moser banner. The sometimes neglected Heritage collection within the Moser catalog just received a pair of updates, and it’s a good reminder that Moser does more than Streamliners and shoe collabs (but we love the shoe collabs). First, let’s look at the Heritage Chronograph White Fumé. Moser tells us this reference was inspired by Moser chronographs from the middle part of the 20th century. It has a classic two register layout with subdials at 9:00 and 3:00, and a tachymeter scale around the dial’s perimeter. The white fumé dial is accented with blue graduations, subdials, and hands, creating great contrast and making the watch feel just a little more at home in 2026, or later (a watch like this would have almost certainly had black printing in the mid 20th century).   The case is 42mm in stainless steel, and the watch is powered by Moser’s HMC 220 caliber, which has been outfitted with a chronograph module in this execution. Moser does make their own chronograph caliber (the HMC 907), so it’s noteworthy that they’ve used their workhorse automatic with a module for this release. It’s likely bor...

T Teddy Baldassarre Excl
Teddy Baldassarre Excl
Yesterday

A Guide to Watch Finishing with Roland Murphy

What transforms a mechanical watch into a work of art? Guided by American master watchmaker Roland Murphy, discover the true meaning behind terms like Geneva stripes and perlage and to see how engine-turned guilloché dials are really made. By the end of this original film, you’ll be an expert on the lesser-known traditional finishing techniques that separate good watches from some of the highest-grade watches in the entire industry.More

Photo Report: Milan Watch Week 2026 Hodinkee
Patek Philippe also just concluded Yesterday

Photo Report: Milan Watch Week 2026

Geneva won't want to hear me say this, but it's starting to feel like Milan is becoming the unofficial capital of watches lately. Firstly, Rolex chose the city to announce the wildly unexpected Perpetual Padellone in September of this year. Patek Philippe also just concluded the next installment of their two-week-long Watch Art Grand Exhibition held in Palazzo delle Scintille, and Hublot selected Milan to host the launch of their latest release and slight re-issue, Classic Fusion Tributo. Amid all these activations, the city saw even more watch-obsessed people descend for what may be the most buzzy happening of all: Milan Watch Week. Now, let me clear something up before I proceed: there are a lot of domestic watch weeks around the world lately. Off the top of my head, we have New York, London, Dubai, Geneva (some people have started to call the week of Watches & Wonders this), Milan, India, and, more recently, Istanbul. And while the increased presence of shows like these may signal something else happening in our industry, the picture it doesn't fully paint is how different each of these weeks is. Let's take Dubai and Milan. Dubai Watch Week, the first and original Watch Week, is a retail-backed organization run by the Seddiq family and takes two years of planning by a huge team with major brand involvement. Milan Watch Week 2026, held in Palazzo Mezzanotte. Milan Watch Week (MWW) was created by the team behind Italian Watch Spotter, an Italian-based online media company...

Introducing - Orient Star Launches Flagship Model for its 75th Anniversary, the Skeleton RE-BR0001N Monochrome
Seiko Epson Corporation can make much Yesterday

Introducing - Orient Star Launches Flagship Model for its 75th Anniversary, the Skeleton RE-BR0001N

While most of us picture the Bambino or Mako collections when we think of Orient watches, the Japanese brand owned by Seiko Epson Corporation can make much more advanced and refined watches, especially under the Orient Star umbrella. We’ve seen this especially this year, as the brand celebrates its 75th anniversary, with models such as the M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding or […]

Happenings: The 2026 GPHG Is Almost Here - Tune In On November 7 For The Winners Hodinkee
Yesterday

Happenings: The 2026 GPHG Is Almost Here - Tune In On November 7 For The Winners

On Saturday, November 7, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève will return to Geneva for its 26th edition, bringing together 84 nominated watches competing across 19 prize categories, including the coveted Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix (known as the “Best in Show” prize). This year’s ceremony marks an important first for the GPHG: It will be conducted entirely in English, reflecting its growing global audience and a shift toward increased accessibility to the public. The winning watches will be announced at Geneva’s Bâtiment des Forces Motrices beginning at 6:30pm CET (12:30pm ET) — and you can watch the livestream here at Hodinkee or on gphg.org. The 84 finalists have already made stops in Mumbai and Bangkok before arriving in Geneva for the final stage of the competition. Following the awards, Watches of Switzerland will have the privilege of presenting them in another exhibition at its Knightsbridge showroom in London. An invite-only preview will take place on November 18, and the exhibit will be open to the public November 19-23. The 26th edition also introduces a new approach to the award categories. Rather than separating watches into men’s and women’s categories, the GPHG has reorganized the competition around the characteristics and types of the watches themselves. These changes are part of a broader evolution of the awards as the GPHG continues to reflect the diversity of contemporary watchmaking. Hodinkee’s very own Senior Editor, Mark Kauzlarich...

Christie’s Marks 40 Years in Asia with “The Iconic 40” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Yesterday

Christie’s Marks 40 Years in Asia with “The Iconic 40”

Christie’s will mark its 40th anniversary in Asia with The Iconic 40 Watches Evening Sale, taking place in Hong Kong on November 25. Bringing together 40 vintage and contemporary watches, the sale includes elaborate grand complications, familiar designs in previously unknown configurations, and a prize-winning observatory chronometer. Perhaps unsurprisingly for a sale focused on icons, more than half of the watches — 23 of the 40 — were produced by Patek Philippe. But it wouldn’t be a high-end auction without a few prime examples of independent watchmaking, represented in this case by a small but mighty contingent of F.P. Journe watches, including a ruby-dialled Tourbillon Souverain and a 38 mm Chronomètre à Résonance. Amongst the historical highlights is lot 4010, the Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch awarded a first prize at the Geneva Observatory in 1931. The movement features a tourbillon cage made by none other than James Pellaton, and the complete set includes both its yellow gold case with enamel dial and its antimagnetic steel competition case with sector dial — no other Patek Philippe observatory tourbillon is publicly known to retain both configurations. Turning to contemporary complications, lot 4021 is a Patek Philippe Celestial ref. 6104/12G-010 that pairs the astronomical display descended from the Star Caliber 2000 with a white gold case and baguette-cut ruby bezel. This possibly unique configuration aligns with growing interest in gem-set ...

Over The Moon: Farer Launches The New Stratton II Moonphase Watch Fratello
Farer Launches Yesterday

Over The Moon: Farer Launches The New Stratton II Moonphase Watch

If you remember the original Stratton, you’ll know it quickly became one of Farer’s best-selling moonphase watches. It had charm, but the hand-painted moon perhaps leaned a little too heavily into cartoon territory for some. Well, the Stratton is back. It has returned with a spectacular photorealistic moonphase and a rich stone dial. And it’s […] Visit Over The Moon: Farer Launches The New Stratton II Moonphase Watch to read the full article.

Introducing - Roger Dubuis Presents the Excalibur Lady of the Lake Hawthorn Edition Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Presents Yesterday

Introducing - Roger Dubuis Presents the Excalibur Lady of the Lake Hawthorn Edition

Roger Dubuis created a powerful storyline for its Excalibur Knights of the Round Table watches, featuring incredibly detailed micro-sculptures and métiers d’art to depict scenes from Arthurian legend housed in large, complex cases. After launching a women’s line with its Velvet collection in 2012, Excalibur also released a scaled-down, more feminine version of the Excalibur […]

Hands-On With The Unusual Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator Fratello
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator Yesterday

Hands-On With The Unusual Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

You don’t see watches like this too often, so if you have to look twice to understand what’s going on, that’s perfectly understandable. I had to look twice at the unusual Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator to realize I was dealing with something you don’t see every day. A standard regulator watch shows the hours, […] Visit Hands-On With The Unusual Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Anthony de Haas SJX Watches
Yesterday

SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Anthony de Haas

On episode 56 of the SJX Podcast, SJX speaks with Anthony de Haas, A. Lange & Söhne’s longtime head of product development, about the thinking behind the watches. The starting point is the new Datograph Perpetual, which takes a familiar model in an unexpected direction with a platinum bracelet and discreet diamond indices. The conversation explores the collaborative watchmaking culture in Glashütte and why every new release should bring something different. Mr de Haas also explains how Lange retains the character of a small manufacture within Richemont — an approach that has earned it the reputation of being “the biggest independent”. Other topics include the growing attention paid to finishing, the work required to give movements a recognisable aesthetic, and why collector enthusiasm won’t necessarily translate into more watches or more bracelets. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Review: the anOrdain Model 1 Porcelain Worn & Wound
Anordain Model 1 Porcelain Few 2 days ago

Review: the anOrdain Model 1 Porcelain

Few small brands can claim to have the kind of success that anOrdain has experienced in recent years. Their enamel dials are so sought after that clients sit on a waitlist that reportedly stretches out to 2030. While some very high end, handmade or bespoke watches take that long or even longer to produce, waiting that kind of time for a watch that retails for around $2,500 is unusual. There’s so much competition at that price, you kind of don’t expect people to really commit for the long haul.  But they do commit, and as anOrdain slowly churns out their enamel dialed watches and delivers them to their very patient customers, the legend of the brand grows. Every so often, I’ll see an anOrdain pop up on the pre-owned market, and if the asking price is reasonable (retail + expected inflation over the next 3-4 years seems about right to me) they never last long. There’s a real, genuine hunger for these watches.  $2950 Review: the anOrdain Model 1 Porcelain Case Stainless steel Movement La Joux-Perret G101 Dial White Porcelain Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 5 ATM Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 11mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $2950 That of course presents all kinds of interesting challenges for anOrdain as a business. How do you scale up (do you even want to?) when the artisanal nature of your production puts a hard limit on what you can make in a month or a year?  anOrdain has a multi-pronged strategy to generate revenue...

First Look: Glashütte Original Brings Murano Glass To The Senator Line Fratello
Glashütte Original Brings Murano Glass 2 days ago

First Look: Glashütte Original Brings Murano Glass To The Senator Line

People in the watch community constantly misunderstand aventurine. The sparkly, often dark blue substance used for watch dials isn’t a natural gemstone dug from the ground (though a natural quartzite stone later named aventurine also exists). Rather, it’s a product of accident and human ingenuity. The aventurine we typically see in watches dates back to […] Visit First Look: Glashütte Original Brings Murano Glass To The Senator Line to read the full article.

Introducing - Casio Expands its Mechanical Range with the CMK-100 Collection, an Accessible, Compact Titanium Explorer-Style Watch Monochrome
Casio Expands 3 days ago

Introducing - Casio Expands its Mechanical Range with the CMK-100 Collection, an Accessible, Compact Titanium Explorer-Style Watch

For many years, Casio has been exclusively known for its quartz and digital watches. Indeed, in over 50 years of watchmaking, Casio has never produced a mechanical watch… Until last year, with the introduction of a game-changing collection, the Edifice EFK-100 Automatic, the first-ever mechanical offering from the brand. Accessible and pretty nice in design, […]

Auctions: The 2026 Geneva Fall Auctions Mega-Preview, Part 1 - Christie's and Antiquorum Hodinkee
F.P. Journe 3 days ago

Auctions: The 2026 Geneva Fall Auctions Mega-Preview, Part 1 - Christie's and Antiquorum

It’s time to dig in for the fall auction season, and with over 1225 lots, I must admit I've delayed this out of sheer overwhelming anxiety about the amount of work to do. Also, aside from a small preview of watches held by Phillips in New York a few weeks back, I haven’t had time to handle these watches, which increasingly leaves me unnerved as prices rise and audiences become more educated. It allows folks to pick out details you just can’t notice when looking at hundreds of watches but can find if you look at one or two watches closely, which I don’t have the luxury of. Caveat emptor, as always, but I’ll be going to some previews in Geneva next week, and I will update if I notice anything. In case you missed it, Ben covered some things he noticed for these same auctions, which led to me crossing out some things I was going to cover (since he beat me to it) and to send him a bit of a lamenting text saying that he blew up my spot on a few things I was going to bid on. All is fair in love and coverage. I’m sure I might blow up some readers. Them’s the breaks. So let’s get into what caught my eye. Christie’s - November 9, 2026 We’re going to start where the market has put its attention: F.P. Journe. The elephant in the room is the brand headquartered a 15-minute walk from the Christie’s auction room in Geneva at Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, across the Rhône, and into the Old Town. The demand for Journe is not of the brand’s making, and it has cert...

Introducing - The new Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Momiji, in Autumnal Red Monochrome
Kiwame Tokyo 3 days ago

Introducing - The new Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Momiji, in Autumnal Red

Founded in 2025, Kiwame Tokyo is a young Japanese watchmaking brand based in Asakusa. It focuses on classically styled, well-finished watches with accessible pricing and design details rooted in Japanese culture. Following the inaugural Kurotsuki and Usuki models, the Kubo collection, launched earlier this year, features an off-centred, recessed small-seconds display at 4:30, and now […]

Introducing The Artisans De Genève × Eliud Kipchoge: A Marathon-Ready 57g Titalum Chronograph Fratello
Marathon 3 days ago

Introducing The Artisans De Genève × Eliud Kipchoge: A Marathon-Ready 57g Titalum Chronograph

Eliud Kipchoge (41) is a legend. On October 12th, 2019, the Kenyan athlete became the first person to run a marathon distance in under two hours. He also competed in four Olympic Games and won two gold medals, one silver, and one bronze. Now, there are plenty of lightweight watches suited to demanding athletes. But […] Visit Introducing The Artisans De Genève × Eliud Kipchoge: A Marathon-Ready 57g Titalum Chronograph to read the full article.