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The Fuchs-Inspired Union Glashütte Noramis Date Limited Edition Petro Surf 2026 Monochrome
Glashütte Original manufacture has strongly focused May 22, 2026

The Fuchs-Inspired Union Glashütte Noramis Date Limited Edition Petro Surf 2026

In the past few years, Union Glashütte, the sister brand of the more high-end Glashütte Original manufacture, has strongly focused on connecting its watches with car-related events and car-inspired designs. Take, for example, the Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2025, the Noramis Date Deutschland Classic 2025 with an MB wheel-inspired design, or the BBS-styled Noramis Date […]

In Depth: Leroy 01 SJX Watches
Breguet No 160 May 22, 2026

In Depth: Leroy 01

The pocket watch format is experiencing an unexpected renaissance. From auction salerooms to high street queues, collectors of all stripes are talking about pocket watches more than at any time in recent memory. That makes it a perfect time to continue our series on groundbreaking historical pocket watches, including Breguet No. 160. This installment analyses the Leroy 01, which reigned as world’s most complicated watch — by most measures — for 85 years. The calm before the storm On the first of November 1897, Charles Piguet began work on an ébauche for which no contract yet existed. In his workshop at Le Sentier, a stone village strung along the floor of the Vallée de Joux at an altitude where winter arrives early and stays long, he opened a commission that would occupy the better part of seven years and produce the most complicated portable timepiece ever constructed. The formal agreement with his client, the Parisian house of L. Leroy & Cie — formerly known as Le Roy & Fils — would not be signed until January 1898. Piguet started anyway. In the Vallée de Joux, a man’s word was sufficient. This detail — two months of work before the ink dried — says something essential about the relationship between the French brand and the Swiss établisseurs on whom it depended. L. Leroy & Cie, founded in Paris in 1785 by Basile-Charles Leroy, had maintained that relationship across generations. When Louis Leroy, who had acquired the firm in 1889 and established a ma...

Introducing: The New Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Time Zones, Part Of The Altitude Air Force Blue Capsule Collection Fratello
Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Time May 22, 2026

Introducing: The New Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Time Zones, Part Of The Altitude Air Force Blue Capsule Collection

Bremont is a brand that almost literally fell from the sky, and that’s probably why its Altitude collection of pilot’s watches is the most important one. So when there’s an all-new addition to the Altitude lineup, it’s worth investigating. The new watch doesn’t disappoint: the Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Time Zones proudly shows its Martin-Baker […] Visit Introducing: The New Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Time Zones, Part Of The Altitude Air Force Blue Capsule Collection to read the full article.

Introducing: The Arken Alterum Sage Grey Hodinkee
Ming May 21, 2026

Introducing: The Arken Alterum Sage Grey

What We Know Arken, the UK-based microbrand, has come back into the spotlight with the next public edition of its popular traveler dual-time watch, this time with a "Sage Grey" dial. It follows two preceding versions, one with a grey dial and one with a black dial, both of which were introduced back in 2023 and offered first as 200-piece preorders, a restock, and then an open-ended run early last year. While those versions are no longer available to order online, Arken founder Kenneth Lam told me that those editions can still be found at shows and via the brand's slowly growing network of retailers. And while the brand was busy assembling watches and fulfilling these orders all of last year, those who keep a close eye on the brand or have gone to any of Arken's meetups will know that a few "Speakeasy" editions have since popped up, available only in person and at these specific shows and meetups, often coming with a Cerakoted case. But finally, this new Sage Grey Alterum marks another reference that will be available to the broader public.  First introduced earlier this year at British Watchmakers' Day, this new dial takes the classic British racing green and desaturates it to an extreme, offering only a small hint of its verdant nature in what otherwise appears to be a quite monochromatic dial. A sand-colored dual-time hand adds a subtle touch of warmth to the otherwise cool dial, which complements the grey hue of the 38mm grade 2 titanium case. On the dial, two small ci...

Introducing – The Watch Angels x Alpina Startimer Pilot IFR Chronograph, a Proper Pilot’s Instrument Monochrome
Alpina Startimer Pilot IFR Chronograph May 21, 2026

Introducing – The Watch Angels x Alpina Startimer Pilot IFR Chronograph, a Proper Pilot’s Instrument

Pilot watches have always occupied a special place in watchmaking and in our hearts. Large crowns, legible dials, chronographs, GMT indications, and slide-rule bezels all emerged from real-life needs. Yet despite many decades of looking up to aviation for clues, very few modern pilot watches can actually assist pilots in flight procedures. Most are stylistic […]

Introducing: Serica Downsizes Its Field Chronometer With The 35mm Ref. 7505 Hodinkee
Serica Downsizes May 21, 2026

Introducing: Serica Downsizes Its Field Chronometer With The 35mm Ref. 7505

What We Know It's time to put aside the debate of big watches versus small watches. I think we can at least agree that options are a good thing, so everyone can get what they want. With that in mind, Serica has released three new, smaller Field Chronometer watches measuring only 35mm by 9.6mm thick with a COSC-certified automatic movement and three new enamel dials. These three new watches, with stainless steel cases, play off the design language of the ref. 6190 with a few tweaks. There's the slightly larger, fixed bezel with pips at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock. They have a double-domed anti-reflective sapphire that should somewhat magnify the smaller dial. The two-tone cream-and-black "Tuxedo" dial is similar to the ref. 6190 TXD, with hand-applied numerals. The other two, the "Minute Critical" dials in black or olive green, aren't that far from the ref. 6190 "Denali" that is already on offer in a larger size, with added 5-minute Arabic numerals. All three have Super-LumiNova C3 lume. Inside the case is the SoProd M100 movement, which is COSC-certified for accuracy, making it a Field Chronometer in both name and function. The caliber runs at 4Hz, is self-winding, and has a 42-hour power reserve. According to Serica, it also has a decorated plate with Côtes de Genève, and while there are no photos of the caseback, I would assume it is still a closed caseback like its big sibling.  Then there's the final major update: the watch comes with a redesigned Bonklip bracelet, fea...

All the Panels from the 2026 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant May 21, 2026

All the Panels from the 2026 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco

The 2026 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco was easily our largest event in California yet! It was punctuated by amazing brands, cool watches, and numerous activities. However, it was the panels that helped maintain that classic Windup vibe and we had four great ones over the course of the event. Precision Meets Passion: Frederique Constant and the Padel Phenomenon Padel is no longer just a trend—it’s a global commercial powerhouse on track to become a $6 billion industry by 2028. Join Kaitlin Derkach (Marketing Director, Frederique Constant) and Diane Gotua (CCO, Pro Padel League) as they discuss the “lifestyle-first” strategy driving padel’s explosive 50% year-over-year growth in the U.S. and why Frederique Constant is betting on this high-energy, enthusiast-friendly sport. EDC Expo Panel: Building a Quiver vs. Collection Many collectors don’t think in rigid frameworks—they follow curiosity and passion wherever it leads. Others work within self-imposed rules around style, function, or brand. This panel brings together Jim Wirth (Founder/CEO at GiantMouse Knives), Christian Freissler (Co-Founder at Evolve Agency and Creative Director at Shinzo Tamura), and Harrison McCrindle (Head of Government Operations at Marathon Watch Company) for a candid conversation about the art, science, and emotion of collecting across knives, sunglasses, watches, and everyday carry. Together, they’ll explore different philosophies of gear collecting, from logical progressions t...

Introducing: The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light Hodinkee
Omega s next Bond Seamaster May 21, 2026

Introducing: The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light

What We Know Today marks the introduction of Omega's next Bond Seamaster. Don't worry, you haven't missed an announcement of Daniel Craig's successor—this new Seamaster Chronograph is an homage to… a video game. Yes, that's right. The commercial success of Omega's involvement in the James Bond franchise has been well documented, so it seems that a line of watches rooted in its connection to a history of fantasy and fiction through film would naturally extend to adjacent properties. This is the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light, a remix of the brand's large diving chronograph that appears in the upcoming 007 First Light video game. Interestingly, this is the first Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph in the James Bond universe—chronographs have made appearances on Bond in the movies, but this is the first from the Bond-tied line-up since the partnership kicked off in 1995 with GoldenEye. Given that it's largely identical to the current Seamaster 300M Chronographs out there, it should feel quite familiar, despite this version's inspiration tracking back to 3D-rendered models. Coming in at a very large 44mm diameter, 17.2mm height, and 52.8mm lug-to-lug, the 300 meter diver comes in steel with plenty of contrasting black zirconium-oxide ceramic, thanks to the white enamel-filled bezel insert, the chronograph pushers, and the trademark glossy ceramic wave-engraved dial of the modern Seamaster 300M. One of Omega's interesting quirks that I've always loved...

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 “Seven Poets” SJX Watches
May 21, 2026

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 “Seven Poets”

FVF Genève founder Franc Vila has created a unique piece of his flagship tourbillon for a noted European collector of independent and complicated watches who goes by @thedeadwatchsociety on Instagram. The FVF1 Tourbillon “Seven Poets” is a romantic twist on the day complication that assigns a daily reading from one of seven historical poets. Initial thoughts Franc Vila is a man of many passions. His atelier in central Geneva is packed with art, and each piece has a story — I can’t think of anyone better to create a poetry-themed watch. Neither, it seems, could the lucky owner who commissioned the Seven Poets. The watch is fundamentally similar to the standard FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, with its 42.5 mm case, titanium monocoque construction, seven-sided day roller, and flying tourbillon architecture. Even in its basic configuration, the FVF1 is a distinctive offering that relaunched Mr Vila’s career after he parted ways with his eponymous brand. But the Seven Poets is anything but basic. Like the “Today” edition reviewed last year, the Seven Poets deviates from the norms of traditional watchmaking. Instead of indicating the day of the week, the day roller has been repurposed to feature the hand-engraved names of seven poets that are personally meaningful to the owner who commissioned the watch. I liked the conceptual, philosophical statement made by the “Today” edition, and the Seven Poets takes it one step further. This simple change to an indicat...

Highlights: Striking Complications from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet May 21, 2026

Highlights: Striking Complications from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet at Christie’s Hong Kong

Two leading practitioners of fine watchmaking, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet face off at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, Important Watches: Featuring “Kronos: Titans of Time”, “The Eternity” and “The Chronicle” Collections. The catalogue features blue chip high complications such as the Sky Moon Tourbillon, as well as under-appreciated neo-vintage discoveries, and the most striking of this selection doesn’t even chime. Lot 2424 – Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002P-001 While Patek Philippe’s Sky Moon Tourbillon started as a supporting act to the Star Caliber 2000, miniaturising the latter’s planisphere with moon passage and phases, its mindshare has far surpassed its larger sibling. It was Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch when first launched, and the super-watch of the 2000s. Collectors entering the watch world during that time speak of it with the same nostalgia and reverence 2000s kids give to the Bugatti Veyron. The design was rather contemporary for early 2000s Patek Philippe, and looks nothing like its successor, the baroque ref. 6002. At 42 mm in diameter, it was also notably large — the ref. 5016 with which shares most of its movement, was only 36 mm in diameter. It was forward thinking in another way, selling an extremely expensive, astronomical complication as an off-the-rack product, continuing Philippe Stern’s “build it and they will come” attitude that began with the Calibre 89. Patek Philippe’...

Seiko Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in the Presage Collection to Celebrate a Big Anniversary Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces May 20, 2026

Seiko Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in the Presage Collection to Celebrate a Big Anniversary

The slow drip of Seiko limited editions to celebrate the brand’s 145th anniversary continues with a pair of releases in their Presage collection. The Presage line has long been one of my favorites in the Seiko catalog, and I’ve always felt these watches were a bit slept on compared to sportier watches in the Prospex line. The Presage collection is not just more “dress watch” oriented, but the watches under this banner frequently build on traditional Japanese craft techniques and offer a ton of value. It feels like we’re in a moment where these watches might be prime for a greater appreciation, as enthusiasts are more comfortable than they’ve ever been with smaller cases, exotic dials, and less sport oriented watches in general.  Of the two watches in the Presage line announced recently, the one that sticks in my mind the most is the new HCC007, with an Arita porcelain dial in cobalt blue. We’ve seen a number of Presage releases with porcelain dials over the years, often drawing on the traditional porcelain crafted in Arita for inspiration. This is a great example of the way Seiko incorporates very traditional Japanese craftsmanship into watches that are relatively affordable and don’t skimp at all on aesthetics.  The HCC007’s porcelain dial features a blue glaze in the same color as traditional Arita porcelain, and is the first time this color has been seen in the Presage collection. The dial is constructed with a radiating, sunken center section and an...

Introducing – The New Awake Son Mai Guilloché Main, a Dazzling Display of Craftsmanship Monochrome
May 20, 2026

Introducing – The New Awake Son Mai Guilloché Main, a Dazzling Display of Craftsmanship

After moving on from its space-themed watches, Awake – the French indie brand founded by Lilian Thibault in 2019 – celebrated its fifth anniversary with the Son Mai, a permanent collection built around craftsmanship. The collection, which features richly decorated dials created using the ancient Vietnamese lacquering technique of Son Mai, now grows with the […]

Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup Fratello
May 20, 2026

Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup

We’ve been following Awake since well before the 2024 introduction of its Sơn Mài collection. The watches, which feature painstakingly layered Vietnamese lacquer over silver leaf, have vaulted the brand into new territory. Each release is greeted with fervor from fans, and the limited editions frequently sell out quickly. Until now, the watches have featured […] Visit Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup to read the full article.

Introducing: Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Collection Hodinkee
May 20, 2026

Introducing: Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Collection

What We Know Awake is launching three new watches today, along with a new visual identity for the young brand. The three references—"Sunset," "Alba," and "Borealis"—take their names and color palettes from celestial phenomena: an ocean sunset, an incandescent dawn, and the Northern Lights, respectively. "Alba" The dials are the story here, and the story behind them is quite fascinating. The process begins in Hanoi, Vietnam, where master lacquerers apply multiple ultra-thin layers of Sơn Mài lacquer—derived from the sap of the Rhus Verniciflua tree—then meticulously polish each coat to build up the dial's color. Sunset gets pink, violet, and blue.  Alba gets red, yellow, and orange. Borealis gets green and yellow. Once the lacquer work is complete, the dials travel to Italy, where they're handed to the Renzetti family—one of the last workshops in Europe still practicing hand guilloché—who work them on traditional rose and straight-line engine lathes, entirely by hand, for approximately 15 hours per dial. Each groove is unique to the individual artisan and the individual piece. "Sunset" The hands and indices are constructed with a steel cap system finished in polished, brushed, and engraved textures, filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9. The result is a lume solution that's discreet in daylight but comes alive in the dark, casting a soft halo over the lacquer and guilloché beneath. All of this sits inside a new 38mm stainless steel case, a first for Awake. It fea...

Introducing – The Updated Charlie Paris Alliance Collection, Now With Sapphire Dial Models Monochrome
May 20, 2026

Introducing – The Updated Charlie Paris Alliance Collection, Now With Sapphire Dial Models

If you have been following French watchmaking lately, chances are you have come across Charlie Paris already. They have a promising catalogue of everyday mechanical watches that do not get too expensive. The brand’s line-up today covers everything from the sporty and travel-ready Concordia GMT Automatic to more classic designs such as the Initial Collection. […]

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne May 20, 2026

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este

When we write about watches at Fratello, we typically have three levels of engagement with the product. First, we have our basic introduction articles, for which we base our writing solely on press materials, keeping it brief and factual. Second, we have our hands-on reviews, which allow us to spend time with the watch before […] Visit Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este to read the full article.

Hands On: Haute-Rive Honoris Meccanica SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux May 20, 2026

Hands On: Haute-Rive Honoris Meccanica

Taking place right next door to Watches & Wonders, Time to Watches is an annual fair dedicated to independent watchmaking. Among the exhibitors this year was Stéphane von Gunten, the watchmaker behind the Haute-Rive brand.  Arguably the most technically impressive watch on display was the Honoris Meccanica, the most mechanical looking of Haute-Rive’s Honoris line. The timepiece houses a three meter-long mainspring which allows it to achieve a power reserve of 41 days — more specifically 1,000 hours. Unlike some other watches with ultra-long power reserves, the Honoris Meccanica remains a properly sized and wearable timepiece that doesn’t feel like a wrist-worn experiment. Initial thoughts Stéphane von Gunten is part of a new generation of independent watchmakers with a strong engineering background, rather than a career spent doing restoration work. Before launching Haute-Rive, Mr von Gunten worked as a Research and Innovation Director at the Sowind group, which owns Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin. His most notable work happened while at Ulysse Nardin, where Mr von Gunten filed a number of important patents, ranging from the oval-shaped hairspring still used by Ulysse Nardin today to constant force escapements and compliant flexure oscillators.  As fate would have it, one of Mr von Gunten’s ancestors is Irénée Aubry, the watchmaker behind the “Hebdomas” eight-day pocket watch of 1888. Commercialised under many names, the movement only required winding...

Remembering Jean-Marie Schaller, One Of Watchmaking’s Brightest Characters Fratello
Louis Moinet May 19, 2026

Remembering Jean-Marie Schaller, One Of Watchmaking’s Brightest Characters

We were deeply saddened to hear of the passing of Jean-Marie Schaller, the owner and creative force behind Louis Moinet. Jean-Marie passed away peacefully on May 16th at the age of 66. I wanted to share a few personal words about Jean-Marie because he was someone I came to know not only through watches but […] Visit Remembering Jean-Marie Schaller, One Of Watchmaking’s Brightest Characters to read the full article.

Damaged Goods: the Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Oak Debacle Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Oak May 19, 2026

Damaged Goods: the Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Oak Debacle

The hype started immediately. Just a little over a week ago, Audemars Piguet and Swatch began teasing the unthinkable: a collaboration. Well, not just a collab, it quickly became clear that this would be another bioceramic recreation, of sorts, of an iconic watch. Named “Royal Pop,” thus evoking the most Veblen of watches, the Royal Oak. Without even showing what the final product would be, collectors, enthusiasts, speculators, hype chasers, pop culture analysts, your awkward relative that texts you everything watch-related they stumble upon, knew this would be big. Not just big in terms of the watch industry, but big in terms of product launches on a global level. Think iPhone, but dumber. When Swatch launched the MoonSwatch back in 2022, there were similar initial reactions. Contempt, excitement, speculation. On the day of launch, I met up with Worn & Wound co-founder Blake Malin to head to a store to maybe pick one up. While on the train, we heard about the lines and decided to bail. Thanks to sites like StockX and eBay, the value of these watches skyrocketed before launch, drawing in a crowd of opportunistic resellers. No shade towards them, a living is a living, but the tone of the launch shifted. It wasn’t for us anymore. Eventually, social media outlets reported that some of the lines were getting rowdy. Not a good look. Despite the inane “boutique” launch model, eventually we got the watches, and, for a time, they were fun. Back to 2026 – despite knowin...

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo Hodinkee
Gerald Charles May 19, 2026

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo

Enthusiasts and collectors made their way to SoHo for an exclusive and exciting event, hosted by Hodinkee, Gerald Charles, and Watches of Switzerland. Fresh from the whirlwind that is Watches & Wonders, this event marked the first opportunity for Gerald Charles to introduce their latest collection to the U.S.-based collectors. The evening celebrated a brand on the rise, featuring a comprehensive look at the brand's offerings, both past and present, including the beautiful, bespoke Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold, a watch conceptualized and designed by Mr. Genta himself two decades ago, hosting his favorite Jumping Hours complication. This exceptional pièce unique, which has spent the last several weeks on display at Watches & Wonders and in the Gerald Charles Atelier, was inspired by the untouched Li Galli archipelago off the Amalfi Coast and represents a profound expression of Maestro from its earliest days. Vintage Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold. Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar's first stop in the United States after their W&W; release. The highlight of the event was an animated discussion between Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, and Tim Jeffreys, Hodinkee Deputy Editor. Following a warm introduction and welcome to all in the room from Tim Jeffreys, the conversation continued, covering the newly released watches, the DNA that sets the Maestro case apart, as well as the decisions, thoughts, and work that continue to make Gerald Charles watche...

Introducing – The Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects May 19, 2026

Introducing – The Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects

Created by Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, a man capable of creating superb watches and movements, Kurono Tokyo aims to apply his design language to a more accessible price range. While the entire production of the brand is limited and relatively difficult to obtain, the “special projects” collection adds a sense of exclusivity through the […]

Atelier Wen Introduces the Perception V3 in a Trio of Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Introduces May 19, 2026

Atelier Wen Introduces the Perception V3 in a Trio of Dial Colors

In their stated mission to prove that Chinese craftsmanship and artisanship can be worthy of attention usually reserved for European brands, French-Chinese watchmakers Atelier Wen have consistently put out intriguing pieces since their debut in 2017. Next on that growing list is the Perception V3, which builds on the reputation for hand-crafted horology that came with the original Perception line in 2022. The new V3 model takes elements of the V1 and V2 watches, particularly the hand-turned guilloché́ dials by renowned artisan Cheng Yucai, and aims to perfect the mechanics and aesthetics of the lineup. Three models are on offer, with two colorways returning from previous iterationts—the Piāo in ice-blue and Xiá in salmon—while a new variant, Yún in bamboo green, joins the pack. The three colors are both vibrant and easy on the eyes, favoring a more muted hue that pairs well with the pagoda-inspired lines of the 904L stainless steel of the case and bracelet.  Speaking of the case, it measures in at 40mm in diameter and 47mm lug-to-lug, the same dimensions as the V2, with the exception of the now-thinner 10.4mm case height. A knurled crown and full exhibition caseback give the V3 watches 100 meters of water resistance. The case additionally features more directional brushing and mirror polishing than previous iterations, while the Yún model additionally steps up the craftsmanship with micro-frosting in place of the brushed surfaces. The dials, though, are where At...

Video: Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits Down With Ben Clymer To Discuss The 2026 Novelties Hodinkee
Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits May 19, 2026

Video: Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits Down With Ben Clymer To Discuss The 2026 Novelties

Thierry Stern sat down with Ben Clymer at Watches & Wonders 2026 to walk through Patek Philippe's novelties, and his passion for the product comes through immediately. Nowhere is that more evident than with the Nautilus's 50th anniversary pieces. Compared to the 40th, this is an exercise in restraint. "My idea is to do the counter-steps," Stern said. The three limited-edition anniversary Nautiluses are stripped to hours and minutes only—no date, no seconds—perhaps the most compelling of which is a 38mm platinum case recalling the medium-size Nautilus models of the 1980s, powered by the 2.53mm Calibre 240, its micro-rotor engraved with "50 1976–2026". The wildcard—a personal highlight for Ben—was something genuinely unexpected: Patek's first-ever Nautilus desk clock, the ref. 958G, limited to just 100 pieces. Its white gold case translates the porthole-inspired Nautilus design to 50.65mm, with a hinged caseback that doubles as a stand. Technically a pocket watch, yet perhaps it's better suited to the table. Mr. Stern gives us a peek behind the curtain on how it came to be—and the story behind it is one you'll definitely want to hear. Thierry also walked Ben through the 5840P—the Cubitus's first grand complication, a skeletonized perpetual calendar he'd conceived early in the collection's development but deliberately held back, wanting the design language to land before the mechanics got complicated. The vintage Patek market is certainly booming, with the ref. ...

Hands On: Nouvelle Chronometrie Montre Ordinaire SJX Watches
Breguet attire May 19, 2026

Hands On: Nouvelle Chronometrie Montre Ordinaire

One of the most intriguing debuts in independent watchmaking this year is Nouvelle Chronometrie with its Montre Ordinaire. Despite the name, Nouvelle Chronometrie is actually Japanese, and the “ordinary” watch is a tourbillon chronometer inspired by 20th century observatory chronometer watches and dressed in formal Breguet attire. With its rigorously classical design, evident on both the front and back, the Nouvelle Chronometrie is distinctly Japanese at heart in how it careful reproduces and enhances traditional watchmaking – executed with a great deal of attention to detail. Moreover, the manufacturing of the watch is a combination of both old school manual methods and modern technology, reflecting a typically Japanese embrace of technology, not for cost efficiency, but for the sake of quality. Initial thoughts I first came across Nouvelle Chronometrie on Instagram. It was just images of the watch, with no information on the brand’s origins. Then I learnt Nouvelle Chronometrie was founded and led by Noritaka Sakurai, a longtime collector who pivoted to join the industry – which ironically left me a little sceptical. Though I have known Mr Sakurai for a long time and regard him highly as a collector, he was chief executive at Hajime Asaoka’s watchmaking outfit until 2020 – that employer was a red flag for me. Fortunately, Mr Sakurai has left that behind, and has now gone all in with Nouvelle Chronometrie, a project that deserves recognition and praise. Accor...

Hands-On With The New Cartier Santos-Dumont In Full Gold Or Platinum With A Bracelet Fratello
Cartier Santos-Dumont May 19, 2026

Hands-On With The New Cartier Santos-Dumont In Full Gold Or Platinum With A Bracelet

At Watches and Wonders, we see many watches, of course. It’s actually not the best place to see watches, though. During the “touch & try” sessions, watches are passed around quickly as everyone tries to take as many pictures as possible. Cartier is notoriously one of the most watch-heavy sessions, as the brand usually presents […] Visit Hands-On With The New Cartier Santos-Dumont In Full Gold Or Platinum With A Bracelet to read the full article.

First Look – The King Seiko Vanac Limited Edition HKF004 in Seiko Blue Dial Monochrome
Seiko Vanac Limited Edition HKF004 May 19, 2026

First Look – The King Seiko Vanac Limited Edition HKF004 in Seiko Blue Dial

King Seiko, the other higher-end arm of the Group, has had an interesting comeback run since Seiko revived the collection in 2020, bringing back one of its classic higher-end names from the 1960s. This family also introduced the Vanac sub-collection during the 1970s. These were some cool watches that were more colourful, faceted, and much-liked […]