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Results for Pilot Watch

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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.

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History of the Cartier Santos: the first pilot watch, and arguably the first proper wristwatch

Louis Cartier built it in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was fed up fumbling for his pocket watch mid-flight. 121 years later the square case with exposed screws is still the sharpest dress-sports piece on the shelf. Here is how it got there.

De Rijke and Co.’s Balancing Act Worn & Wound
De Rijke May 13, 2026

De Rijke and Co.’s Balancing Act

The watches made by Dutch independent De Rijke & Co. are all charming and considered designs, but it’s difficult to trace any defined throughline between them. While most upstart brands tend to find their lane and iterate on a concept ad nauseam, De Rijke has consistently kept us on our feet while avoiding the creative quicksand that can come with a successful watch.  The brand first made a splash with the Amalfi, a smart, Bauhaus-informed driver’s watch with a clever two-piece case design that could be rotated through 90 degrees to orient the dial at the ideal angle for the wearer to read while their hands gripped a steering wheel or handlebars. The Amalfi had a timeless design and a romantic origin story that involved the brand’s founder, designer and engineer Laurens De Rijke, embarking upon an 11,000 kilometer Vespa tour of the Amalfi Coast. It was a basic design that De Rijke could’ve played with and re-editioned to death, and while the brand has iterated on the Amalfi concept, the approach they’ve taken was wholly unexpected.  The watches that followed the debut Amalfis were a series of limited edition collaborations featuring the iconic Dutch cartoon character “Miffy.” The Miffy collabs have featured everything from moonphase designs, to enameled dials, to ceramic cases. While they were a surprisingly playful and whimsical way to follow up an elegant, functionalist watch like the Amalfi, these limited editions all became bonafide hits–to the point ...

Conversations: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid on Capacity and Limited Editions SJX Watches
May 13, 2026

Conversations: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid on Capacity and Limited Editions

In the run-up to Watches & Wonders, our founder SJX sat down with Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid to discuss the brand’s new releases, including the Saxonia Annual Calendar and the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. They also touch on the brand’s philosophy around limited editions, the challenges of training watchmakers on new movements, and why Lange has no plans to enter the custom-order market. Watch now on YouTube.  

Marathon Celebrates America’s 250th with a Limited Edition Pilot’s Navigator Worn & Wound
Ming May 12, 2026

Marathon Celebrates America’s 250th with a Limited Edition Pilot’s Navigator

As many are likely well aware, 2026 marks the 250th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence, and as we approach the 4th of July, there are going to be a lot of reminders of America’s big birthday. The watch industry, as we know, loves an anniversary, and Marathon has gotten in on the act with the new edition of their Navigator pilot’s watch with a handful of patriotic nods to America’s founding.  Marathon has been supplying the Department of Defense and various branches of the United States military with MIL-SPEC watches for many years, and the Pilot’s Navigator in particular has special resonance within their collection as it was originally developed in partnership with Kelly Air Force Base in San Antonia, TX in 1986. It’s a signature watch for Marathon and directly tied to the Canadian brand’s longstanding relationship to the American military, so it serves as a natural canvas for a limited edition.  Various aesthetic features of the new Anthracite Stainless Steel Pilot’s Navigator have been inspired directly by the U.S. flag and the Star Spangled Banner. According to Marathon, the anthracite stainless steel case (coated in black ion-plating) is inspired by the line “the twilight’s last gleaming” in the national anthem. Similarly, the single red tritium tube at 12:00 is a reference to “the rockets’ red glare”. Lastly, a “1776” stamp can be found on the dial just under 12:00. It’s circled by stars, and a visual refer...

Introducing: The Ming 29.06 "Peep Show" Hodinkee
Ming 29.06 Peep Show What May 12, 2026

Introducing: The Ming 29.06 "Peep Show"

What We Know Want to see a magic trick? No, not the kind the Joker pulls in "The Dark Knight," but instead something pretty cool that Ming has cooked up with their new 29.06 "Peep Show." The watches below look markedly different, but the only thing that's changed is the direction the hands point. When Ming Thein showed me this watch last fall, I immediately got what was going on as he turned the crown. If you were doing the same, you'd see that the guilloché dial with a multiphase color-shifting coating (like on the 57.04 "Iris") slowly fades in and out of visibility, turning from a dazzling view to pitch black as the hands move. Any guesses on how it works? Well, it's kind of a trick question, because the hands aren't actually hands. Instead, they're polarized sapphire discs with a hands made of Super-LumiNova X1 fill. The two pieces of sapphire are linearly polarized, so when they're aligned (on top of each other or directly opposite each other), the polarizer lets light in, and you can see that metal disc with color-shifting treatment. As the hands rotate, you see less and less of the dial until it turns black when the two discs are at 90º to each other. When you learn the effect, it's pretty simple, but it's certainly effective in person. All this is in a 29-series case, which is a bit more reserved than the 57-series case. It's made in lightweight Grade 5 titanium, measuring 40mm by 11.8mm, with a 22mm lug width. The case has a 50-meter water resistance. Inside the ...

Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida Worn & Wound
Ming Naoya Hida releases May 7, 2026

Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida

One of my favorite days on the watch media calendar every year is the Naoya Hida preview day. Every spring for the last few years, watch media types make appointments at the Armoury on the Upper East Side to get a look at the upcoming Naoya Hida releases for the year. It feels like a very old fashioned way of doing things. Yes, there’s a press release sent out ahead of time, but Naoya Hida only makes one announcement like this per year – there are no mid-cycle drops or limited editions released to coincide with some later event. Members of the Naoya Hida team are present and there to explain the collection, piece by piece.  This year, Naoya Hida will produce a total of 10 models, 7 of which are new designs. We won’t go through each one here, but rather focus on the references that are completely new and those that have the most notable upgrades.  The reference that immediately caught my eye and was easily the most unexpected of the bunch is the new NH TYPE2C-2. To this point, Naoya Hida has really been defined, in my estimation, by their dial aesthetic, which prominently features elaborate hand engravings in the dial surface. It’s a very traditional and inherently ornate way to make a dial, and the execution is always top notch. It’s a type of craft that’s a true “IYKYK” proposition, though. From a distance the handwork on these dials might not be obvious, but they really come alive under close examination, especially under a loupe.  Anyway, the TYPE2C-2...

Panerai Pushes Material Science With Its New Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech Experience PAM01089 In A Hafnium Case Fratello
Panerai Pushes Material Science May 3, 2026

Panerai Pushes Material Science With Its New Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech Experience PAM01089 In A Hafnium Case

Panerai excels at advancing watchmaking through bold material innovation. Its latest breakthrough introduces the world’s first watch case machined from hafnium. The metal appears here in a 47mm Submersible case. Hafnium ranks among the rarest industrial metals on Earth. Global output measures only a few dozen tons annually. The element exists solely within zirconium ores […] Visit Panerai Pushes Material Science With Its New Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech Experience PAM01089 In A Hafnium Case to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar Vs. IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual May 3, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar Vs. IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41

Another week, another Sunday Morning Showdown. We hope you are enjoying some well-deserved time off and a good weekend breakfast. Lean back in your chair, folks, because we have a proper heavyweight bout scheduled for you! This week, we pit two stainless steel perpetual calendars with integrated bracelets and blue dials against each other. Thomas […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar Vs. IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 to read the full article.

In Partnership - Video: Ben Clymer, Georges Kern Discuss Universal Genève’s Revival At Watches & Wonders Hodinkee
Breitling CEO May 1, 2026

In Partnership - Video: Ben Clymer, Georges Kern Discuss Universal Genève’s Revival At Watches & Wonders

Universal Genève means a lot to us at Hodinkee. It's been one of my favorite brands since the early days of our publication—one that's been with me through various moments in my career, through my growth in knowledge and passion for vintage watches, and a brand I've watched with anticipation, hoping it would come back. And today, we are sharing a conversation between myself and Georges Kern, former Breitling CEO and recently appointed CEO of House of Brands, which includes Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet, to chat over the recent results of a long-term project to bring Universal Genève back to the forefront. I don't think there's been a more hotly anticipated brand relaunch than that of Universal Genève. The announcement that Breitling (now House of Brands) had secured the rights to the dormant brand sent shockwaves through the industry. We—both in the industry at large and at Hodinkee—had high hopes for the relaunch, but the proof would come with the first releases. Let me tell you, I don't think anyone thought Universal Genève would go this far to knock it out of the park. Just before Watches and Wonders 2026, Universal Genève essentially stole the show before it began by launching a few dozen of its most iconic watches in both heritage-styled and reimagined forms. The Gerald Genta-designed Polerouter? Returned, not just in one size but two, and in multiple materials, dials, bracelets, and more. Oh, and a brand-new microrotor (well, three-quarter rotor...

Watches & Wonders: Our Favorite Under the Radar Releases Worn & Wound
Chronoswiss Behrens Apr 29, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Our Favorite Under the Radar Releases

Part of the fun of Watches & Wonders (in fact, most of the fun of Watches & Wonders) is discovering things you didn’t expect to find, or that slip through the cracks and don’t get nearly the attention you think they should once you see them in person. Let’s face it: the event is dominated by a handful of huge brands that save their absolute best for the show. But for every Tudor, Cartier, and Rolex, there’s a Chronoswiss, Behrens, and Hautlence releasing incredibly impressive watches we simply don’t talk about enough.  Here, Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss recap some of their favorite watches at this year’s Watches & Wonders that slipped under the radar for one reason or another. If there’s a release you saw or read about from the show that you think isn’t getting its fair shake, let us know in the comments, we’d love to hear about it.  Zach Weiss Hautlence Kubera Hautlence isn’t a brand that does half-measures. Their watches are all in, featuring wild complications executed in intricate fashion, housed in massive, equally exotic cases. I take a meeting with them at Watches + Wonders every year because, while maybe not a brand that is quite in our wheelhouse, I personally find them fun and inspiring. Plus, the brand has a very self-aware attitude that’s refreshing. Well, this year was different because, for the first time ever, Hautlence launched a watch that, while thoroughly strange and unconventional, was also wearable, and priced, for Hautlence, in a ...

Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2026 SJX Watches
Rolex as it always does Apr 27, 2026

Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2026

The biggest booth at Watches & Wonders 2026 (W&W;) belonged to Rolex, as it always does. Looming three stories high, the Rolex booth was home to some of the most talked-about and polarising watches of the fair, as it always is. Rolex took the occasion of the centenary of its water-resistant Oyster case to roll out a line-up of surprising watches, perhaps the most unexpected from Rolex in a while. The collection included a Daytona with a fired enamel dial, Boetti-esque Oyster Perpetual, and a return of the little-loved but technically impressive Yachtmaster II. The vast, three-story Rolex booth. Image – Watches & Wonders In a first, Rolex gave its popular sports chronograph a vitreous enamel dial, or grand feu enamel in watchmaking parlance. The industrial and engineering achievement is impressive; it’s not just a new livery and this Daytona is more than meets the eye. The enamel is melted glass, as is tradition, but instead of a metal base, the enamel is on a ceramic substrate that is in turn mounted on a brass plate. While there is some debate whether the ceramic substrate makes it enamel in the traditional sense of the word, I consider it enamel. The new enamel dial harks back to the “porcelain” dial Daytona of yore More importantly, the key characteristic of the dial is thinness, recording-setting thinness in fact, which means that Rolex has achieved an enamel dial with all of the qualities of enamel, lustre, fade-resistance, colour, without compromising thicknes...

First Look - The New, Smaller Generation of Santos de Cartier Chronograph Monochrome
Cartier Chronograph Apr 27, 2026

First Look - The New, Smaller Generation of Santos de Cartier Chronograph

In Cartier‘s current collection, the name Santos refers to the related yet distinct collections. On one side is the Santos-Dumont, a thin, elegant, shaped watch that directly connects to the origins of the name, when Cartier created what was one of the first timepieces for pilots (the emblematic 1904 Santos made for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont). […]

Artem Launches Its New Stellar Azure Loop-Less HydroFlex FKM Strap Fratello
Apr 27, 2026

Artem Launches Its New Stellar Azure Loop-Less HydroFlex FKM Strap

Artem expands its HydroFlex Loop-Less strap collection with a new Stellar Azure light blue color. Against the brand’s usual neutral and earthy tones, this vibrant blue immediately stands out. Also, alongside the orange Solar Flare and red Blood Moon editions, it shows Artem’s continuing exploration of bolder, more expressive colors. The light blue shade works […] Visit Artem Launches Its New Stellar Azure Loop-Less HydroFlex FKM Strap to read the full article.

Full Jaeger-LeCoultre Immersion: Three New Marc Newson Atmos And Memovox Designs, Milan Design Week, And Homo Faber Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Immersion Three New Marc Apr 25, 2026

Full Jaeger-LeCoultre Immersion: Three New Marc Newson Atmos And Memovox Designs, Milan Design Week, And Homo Faber

Jaeger-LeCoultre had a pretty impressive Watches and Wonders, with several high-horology releases and a new range of integrated-bracelet Master Control models. The team would surely have been forgiven for taking a few days off in the lovely Vallée de Joux to catch its breath. Instead, JLC flew straight to Milan, Italy, for the Salone del […] Visit Full Jaeger-LeCoultre Immersion: Three New Marc Newson Atmos And Memovox Designs, Milan Design Week, And Homo Faber to read the full article.

What Is Your “Palate Cleanser” Wristwatch Following Watches And Wonders? Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Apr 21, 2026

What Is Your “Palate Cleanser” Wristwatch Following Watches And Wonders?

From a watch with a full-ceramic bracelet from Tudor and a space watch from IWC to a timepiece by H. Moser & Cie. that requires the literal pushing of a button (pump) to power it, this year’s Watches and Wonders did not disappoint. In the frenzy of new watches and watch brands flexing their engineering, […] Visit What Is Your “Palate Cleanser” Wristwatch Following Watches And Wonders? to read the full article.

First Look - Favre Leuba Launches the New 1737 Collection with a Triple Calendar Edition Monochrome
Favre Leuba Launches Apr 18, 2026

First Look - Favre Leuba Launches the New 1737 Collection with a Triple Calendar Edition

The second-oldest name in watchmaking history, Favre Leuba’s origins go back to 1737, when Abraham Favre was recorded as a watchmaker in Le Locle. Following a global relaunch in 2024 under the leadership of CEO Patrik P. Hoffmann, Favre Leuba’s modern revival focuses on precision-driven timepieces that honour the brand’s extensive archives while meeting contemporary […]

In-Depth - The Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver, GS’ Smallest and Most Accurate Dive Watch Monochrome
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio Apr 13, 2026

In-Depth - The Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver, GS’ Smallest and Most Accurate Dive Watch

While dive watches are fundamental to Seiko’s Prospex collection, the concept is slightly less natural for Grand Seiko. At first sight… Indeed, the higher-end brand of Seiko Corporation has been active in the field of purpose-built diving instruments since 2008, delivering impressive models, whether in terms of specs, looks or, unfortunately, size. One of the main complaints heard […]

Watches & Wonders: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 38 Update Brings the Date Ring and the Midas Touch to a Smaller Size Worn & Wound
Nomos Tangente neomatik 38 Update Apr 13, 2026

Watches & Wonders: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 38 Update Brings the Date Ring and the Midas Touch to a Smaller Size

In the Nomos Glashütte lineup, the Tangente is one that brings it all: the allure of 18-karat gold, sizes that range from 33 to 42mm, a unique and subtle date ring, even a few models rated to 1,000 feet of water resistance.  Now the most popular features merge into one aptly-named release: the Tangente neomatik 38 Update, making its debut at this year’s Watches & Wonders. It begins with the mid-sized case that measures 38.5 millimeters, hitting the sweet spot of popularity and balanced proportions. And it’s now available in 18-karat gold, alongside the stainless steel seen on most Tangente models.  “By introducing Tangente Update in gold,” says Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt, “we are also responding to a frequently heard request for modern dress watches, crafted from precious metal.”    The most important feature in this new model is adapting the date ring into a smaller format. The date ring, which Nomos calls Update, circles the edge of the dial with oval windows marking the days of the month, indicating the current date with two red markers on either side.  Previously, the date ring was formerly only available in a 41mm size, or in an unusual two-date system that debuted in 2024. What’s under the skin and behind that 18-karat gold case is the neomatik caliber DUW 6101: an automatic-wind movement with up to 42 hours of power reserve that now gets the same date ring system adapted into a smaller size (just 7.4mm in height, a squeak below the 7.8mm size of the ...