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Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Tudor Nov 7, 2020

Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more

I’m not alone in considering the Rolex Explorer one of the best examples of clean, sharp, monochromatic watches out there. But it’s fair to ask – for any of a host of very fair reasons – what are the best Rolex Explorer alternatives if you can’t get a direct path to the Crown? It’s not … ContinuedThe post Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition is a triple threat of pearl dial, diamonds and on-trend oversized case Time+Tide
Longines Record Australian Limited Edition Oct 28, 2020

VIDEO: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition is a triple threat of pearl dial, diamonds and on-trend oversized case

Despite being an important pillar of the brand today, the Longines Record Collection is sometimes overlooked by the collector community. In its most refined form, the Record Collection represents the clean classicism that is so beautifully embodied by the brand, and offers a breadth of watches tailored for everyday wear. This year Longines have continued … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition is a triple threat of pearl dial, diamonds and on-trend oversized case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to steal a watch, and how Rolex stole the show (with 1mm) Time+Tide
Rolex stole Sep 3, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to steal a watch, and how Rolex stole the show (with 1mm)

I swear we didn’t collaborate on it. It was pure and unintended serendipity. The two most popular stories this week on Watchville (an app you should download here if you don’t already have it, if only for the clock to set your watches to!) were titled: ‘How to steal a watch clean off someone’s wrist…’ … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to steal a watch, and how Rolex stole the show (with 1mm) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition Time+Tide
Longines Record Australian Limited Edition Jul 30, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition

The Longines Record Collection is an important pillar of the brand today, representing the clean classicism that is embodied by the brand. The Heritage Collection is popular with the vintage enthusiast, just as the Sport Collection is a favourite of the adventurous type, and the Record Collection is designed to be an everyday companion and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces Jul 17, 2020

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition

Contemporary yet traditional, the Pano collection has been a staple of Glashütte Original’s offerings. The latest Pano wristwatch is a departure from the line’s typically clean styling – the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition. Limited to 25 watches with a platinum case, the new watch is a variant the standard tourbillon model, dressed up with impeccable engraving on the dial and movement. Initial thoughts With hand-engraved filigree decoration across the dial (and movement, this is easily one of the most attractive in the Pano collection, more so than the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. Similar to the decoration usually found only on the balance cock of Glashütte Original movements, the engraving is made up of pronounced lines and a complex pattern, giving the watch a markedly different character from the standard model. The hand engraving was executed in Glashütte Original’s dial factory in Pforzheim And the look is further enhanced by the metallic blue of panorama date, hands, indices and moon phase, a blue-on-silver livery that provides a sharp and elegant contrast. While the look is elegantly ornate, it’s a big watch, clocking in at 40 mm wide and 13.10 mm tall, probably a bit too big for a watch of this style. The case size suits contemporary tastes, but something thinner and perhaps 38 mm in diameter would work better with the design. German aesthetic Underneath the decoration, the watch is identical to the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. It retains the a...

Why getting your Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved is worth the wait Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved Feb 25, 2020

Why getting your Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved is worth the wait

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a paragon of the Art Deco dress watch style, delivering a clean and classic design that has remained the same for the best part of a hundred years. While most watches with a solid caseback offer ample space for an engraving, the Reverso offers more than most thanks to its beautifully … ContinuedThe post Why getting your Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved is worth the wait appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Great ‘Grams: The world timer edition Time+Tide
Feb 20, 2020

Great ‘Grams: The world timer edition

The world timer complication on a wristwatch has been popular for decades, long before the commercialisation of the jet aircraft, thanks to its clean simplicity and obvious usefulness. The capacity for a watch to tell you the time anywhere in the world, without the need for a highly complicated dial layout or training in pure … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: The world timer edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Semper & Adhuc Rescues Homeless Vintage Movements SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 5, 2020

Semper & Adhuc Rescues Homeless Vintage Movements

French startup Semper & Adhuc is making its debut with a familiar proposition: affordable, time-only watches, but with a historically conscious twist – each watch is powered by a homeless vintage movement. Also unusual is the fact that while the movements are Swiss, namely the A. Schild AS 1012, every other part of the watch, including case, dial, and hands, is made in France. The brand was started in 2016 by watchmaker Colin de Tonnac, who spent several years at Patek Philippe in Geneva before setting up Semper & Adhuc in Bordeaux. The inaugural line-up is made up of three minimalist watches with quirky details and form cases, but the most interesting bit is the slightly romantic rationale behind the movement inside. Saving abandoned movements All three models are powered by the same calibre, the hand-wound AS 1012 produced by A. Schild, a Grenchen-based movement maker that was once one of Switzerland’s largest. Produced from 1936 to 1960, the AS 1012 is an unusual movement because it is, or rather was, an oval form calibre destined for ladies’ watches, explaining the compact size of about 13 mm by 15 mm. It has 17 or 21 jewels depending on the version, and a 36-hour power reserve. Examples of the AS 1012 and its variants The AS 1012 was inexpensive and robust, making it popular enough that millions were produced. And after the Quartz Crisis, a good number of the movements – likely the majority of them – were in watches that were no longer desirable. That wa...

Gerontohorologyphobia: A Young Man’s Fear Of Being Seen Wearing An Old Man’s Watch Quill & Pad
Dec 26, 2019

Gerontohorologyphobia: A Young Man’s Fear Of Being Seen Wearing An Old Man’s Watch

Colin was wearing a steel watch with blue dial when the receptionist at the trading company he was working for, a chirpy lass straight out of the BBC’s 'Eastenders' soap opera, looked down disdainfully and said, “I hate watches with blue dials. They remind me of old men in pubs.” What happened after that can only be described as a case of gerontohorologyphobia: fear of inadvertently wearing an old man's watch.

Khanjar And Qaboos Rolexes: Are They The Vintage Watch Industry’s Blood Diamonds? Quill & Pad
Rolex es Are They Dec 5, 2019

Khanjar And Qaboos Rolexes: Are They The Vintage Watch Industry’s Blood Diamonds?

Increasing demand for timepieces, especially Rolexes, with the Omani emblem is understandable given the high quality, good condition, demonstrable provenance, and rarity of most of these watches, combined with the fact that they had often been presented to their first owners in the 1970s by Sultan Qaboos in person as a token of gratitude for services rendered. Colin Alexander Smith takes a very close look at the meaning behind these rare timepieces.

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche Prototype SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche Dec 2, 2019

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche Prototype

As has become tradition, a good part of Phillips’ upcoming New York watch auction is a memorabilia sale of sorts, including watches owned by Marlon Brando, golfer Jack Nicklaus, and astronaut John Glenn, as well as the Urwerk worn by Robert Downey Jr. while playing Iron Man in Avengers: Endgame. The auction also includes a piece of historical horological memorabilia: an F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche prototype. The prototype is largely identical to the later, serially produced version of the watch – the case is platinum and the dial, yellow gold – but is marked as a prototype on the case back, and also bears the various traits unique to early watches made by Francois-Paul Journe. The cal. 1300 Launched in 2002 and discontinued in 2014, the Octa Réserve de Marche was the brand’s first entry-level wristwatch, powered by an automatic movement, the cal. 1300. Originally conceived to have an eight-day power reserve – hence “Octa” – the movement instead has a power reserve of 120 hours, or about five days. Reputedly constructed with a gear train borrowed from a robust and well-known hand-wind movement plus an extra-large mainspring, the cal. 1300 was the base calibre for the entire Octa line. Although a variety of complications were added on top, ranging from the Octa Chronograph to the annual calendar of the Octa Calendrier, all versions of the movement had identical height of 5.7mm regardless of function. The slimness and smart construction did come at th...

VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Nov 11, 2019

VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16

This year, the brand known for their focus on avant-garde techniques has updated one of their most iconic sporting chronographs, to produce the best-looking TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 in recent years. With an aesthetic of clean refinement, the less-is-more approach has come up trumps in a watch that prioritises robust functionality over notions of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Frederique Constant Introduces the Regatta Countdown Chronograph SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Introduces Sep 15, 2019

Frederique Constant Introduces the Regatta Countdown Chronograph

A Swiss brand now owned by Citizen Watch of Japan, Frederique Constant excels at complications in an affordable and reasonable manner, and now it has added the Regatta Countdown Chronograph to its repertoire. Unlike many yachting watches that are often over-designed with nautical details – think pennants and lots of colours – Frederique Constant has kept its regatta chronograph clean. Priced a bit over US$3000, the Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown has two key elements: central chronograph seconds hand and five circular apertures lined up under 12 o’clock. The apertures function as a 5- or 10-minute regatta countdown timer; this records the time just before the start of a race when yachts position themselves for the best spot at the starting line. When the chronograph is inactive, the apertures show white discs. Once started with the pusher at two o’clock, the apertures turn blue one by one, with each aperture representing one elapsed minute. After five minutes, and five blue apertures, the five-minute countdown to the race begins. The apertures progressively change from showing blue to orange, again at the rate of one a minute. The dials – blue or silver – are straightforward, apart from the countdown windows, and decorated with a hobnail guilloche. Luminous hands match the luminous baton hour markers. Rated to 100m, the case is steel (or gold-plated steel), and 42mm in diameter. Notably, it’s fitted with an upscale, “box-type” sapphire crystal that has ...

Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Aug 2, 2019

Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept

Every year H. Moser & Cie. introduces an over the top, sometimes controversial watch – this year’s headliner was covered in grass – while also doing the opposite with its minimalist “concept” watches. Forsaking logos and numerals or indices, the concept watches have a clean yet colourful aesthetic coupled with appealing in-house movements – a tribute to stealth luxury. The latest iteration of the idea is the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Cosmic Green, a variation of the first model from two years ago. The watch now has a sublime green fumé dial. Though Moser relies on graduated dials often, maybe too often, it is still an attractive look, here with the added interest provided by the flying tourbillon. While not unique to Moser, the graduated tone fumé dials are almost a better calling card than the brand’s logo. In fact, all of Moser’s bestsellers feature this intriguing finish that has the dial colour darkening towards the edge, with the effect now available in several colour variations, including blue, grey and green. The green dial is striking, and quite mesmerising the first time you see it. Up close, the dial is more subdued than in the stock images of the watch, more sea green than forest green. Given the emptiness of the upper half of the dial, the sunburst finish is obvious and complements the gradual external colour change. The flying tourbillon The focal point of the lower half of the dial is the one-minute, flying t...

Nomos flex their muscles with their new Club and Tangente Sport models Time+Tide
Nomos flex their muscles Apr 30, 2019

Nomos flex their muscles with their new Club and Tangente Sport models

Since their inception in 1990, Nomos Glashütte have had a remarkably clear visual and stylistic aesthetic. Clean and refined. Utilitarian, leaning towards the dressy. Unmistakably German. Or, to use the shorthand - Bauhaus.  In the earlier years of Nomos, this distinctive styling was paired with some solid watchmaking, and a very strong value proposition. All … ContinuedThe post Nomos flex their muscles with their new Club and Tangente Sport models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This is what a dress watch should look like - the Breguet Classique 7147 Time+Tide
Breguet Classique 7147 Editor’s note Apr 21, 2019

This is what a dress watch should look like - the Breguet Classique 7147

Editor’s note: There’s a risk with dress watches that they become overly simple. Boring even. That’s not what’s going on with the Breguet Classique 7147, which manages to balance clean design, fine detail and Breguet’s storied design codes in one neat golden package … The story in a second: Breguet’s updated Classique 7147 offers traditional style, … ContinuedThe post This is what a dress watch should look like – the Breguet Classique 7147 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Nodus Avalon - it may be green but this Nodus is ripe for the picking Time+Tide
Nodus Avalon – it may Feb 16, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Nodus Avalon - it may be green but this Nodus is ripe for the picking

“Living the dream” is how I’d best describe the two co-founders of microbrand watch company Nodus. The pair may be relative new recruits to the micro-watchmaking game, but Cullen Chen and Wesley Kwok have turned their passion for watches into their dream business, releasing their debut model, the Nodus Trieste, in 2017, taking its inspiration … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Nodus Avalon – it may be green but this Nodus is ripe for the picking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic Time+Tide
Jaquet Droz Feb 14, 2019

INTRODUCING: Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic

In the last few years, skeletonised watches have undergone a renaissance. Once overly designed and overwrought, at some point this distinctive genre segued from niche to very nice indeed. And Jaquet Droz’s Skelet-One is a great example of this new breed. Clean and simple, rather than ornate, is the name of the game for this … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INSIGHT: Inside the award-winning world of Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia Time+Tide
Rexhep Rexhepi s Akrivia Jan 22, 2019

INSIGHT: Inside the award-winning world of Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia

The day after SIHH, I found myself walking around the cobbled streets of Geneva’s old town. It’s a very different Geneva to the vast, softly furnished halls of the Palexpo, or even the squat monoliths of the famed manufactures, with their clean rooms and airlocks. No, this street was winding, cobbled and, even though the … ContinuedThe post INSIGHT: Inside the award-winning world of Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Everyday elegance - the Blancpain Villeret Grande Date Jour Rétrograde Time+Tide
Blancpain Villeret Grande Date Jour Nov 20, 2018

HANDS-ON: Everyday elegance - the Blancpain Villeret Grande Date Jour Rétrograde

Named after Blancpain’s picturesque Swiss village home, the Villeret collection represents the spiritual heart and soul of the brand. Marking the point at which the Maison’s centuries-old elegance meets modern-day innovation, with each model designed with pure lines, slim case profiles, and clean dials that embody the enduring respect Blancpain holds for traditional watchmaking. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Everyday elegance – the Blancpain Villeret Grande Date Jour Rétrograde appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

NEWS: Cartier on screen and in style for Ocean’s 8  Time+Tide
Cartier Jun 5, 2018

NEWS: Cartier on screen and in style for Ocean’s 8 

Disclaimer: This post contains minimal traces of watch. But it does contain some very large diamonds. Ocean’s 8, the latest in the long-running series of elaborate heist movies, is about to hit our screens, but this time around the film is less of a bro session, as Clooney, Pitt et al. have been benched in … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Cartier on screen and in style for Ocean’s 8  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Looking great in grey - the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date  Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date  Jun 3, 2018

HANDS-ON: Looking great in grey - the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date 

It’s easy with any brand’s new release catalogue to get swept up with the drama and complexity of the halo pieces. In the case of Glashütte Original that glory goes to the flashy green of the Sixties Panorama Date, or the bells and whistles of the Senator Cosmopolite. But sometimes you crave something simple, clean … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Looking great in grey – the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: the Metro neomatik Champagner - a new look for Nomos Time+Tide
Nomos Jan 30, 2017

HANDS-ON: the Metro neomatik Champagner - a new look for Nomos

For many years, the Nomos recipe for watchmaking success was straightforward: take clean-yet-quirky dial details with a few dashes of colour, set this against a neutral black or white backdrop and wrap the whole thing into a steel case. Not the most groundbreaking approach, but it’s certainly been effective in helping Nomos – once the definition … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: the Metro neomatik Champagner – a new look for Nomos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auctions: The 2026 Geneva Fall Auctions Mega-Preview, Part 2 - Phillips, Sotheby's, And Marteau & Co. Hodinkee
Rolex ref 6062 Stelline Photo 1h ago

Auctions: The 2026 Geneva Fall Auctions Mega-Preview, Part 2 - Phillips, Sotheby's, And Marteau & Co.

Earlier this week, we tackled two of the four auctions taking place in Geneva this week (and into next). Now we tackle the last two—Phillips and Sotheby's—which will round out to around 1200 watches that I’ll have looked at to consider for coverage. Have I missed some deals? Certainly. Are there maybe one or two watches that don’t quite look as nice in person as they do in pictures? Yes, again, I’m sure. That's part of why I’m in Geneva this week, taking a look at as many previews as I can. As I said before, if I see anything worth noting, I’ll update my story, but I’ll skip further exposition and get right into the watches. Phillips — November 7th and 8th, 2026 Okay, so I’m in Geneva this week, mainly for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, but in a great twist, Phillips starts off the action with their auctions starting the same morning of the GPHG awards ceremony that evening. That means I get to start the day watching bidding at Phillips before heading to the hotel to throw on a suit and party the night away. What more could you want? A fresh-to-market, essentially single owner Rolex ref. 6062 "Stelline." Photo courtesy Phillips. Well, there’s a lot I could want at Phillips, starting with this amazing Rolex ref. 6062 “Stelline” that is fresh to market. This watch, with an estimate in excess of CHF 600,000, is one of the nicest, most honest yellow gold ref. 6062s I’ve seen in a long time, and the consignor bought it from the original ow...

Fratello Talks: Recent Shifts In The Watch Industry Fratello
10h ago

Fratello Talks: Recent Shifts In The Watch Industry

The watch industry is constantly changing, whether through new product launches, shifting ownership structures, or brands reassessing their place in the market. Some developments have implications that go well beyond a single release. They can influence a brand’s direction, its identity, and the watches it chooses to make. In this episode of Fratello Talks, Jorg, […] Visit Fratello Talks: Recent Shifts In The Watch Industry to read the full article.

Moser Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in their Heritage Collection Worn & Wound
H. Moser 19h ago

Moser Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in their Heritage Collection

If you’re anything like me, when you think of H. Moser the watches that come to mind are colorful, skew toward the avant-garde, and very much in the category of “contemporary.” It’s easy to forget sometimes that Moser traces its origins back to 1828, and there’s been a lot of watchmaking history that has passed through the many references issued under the Moser banner. The sometimes neglected Heritage collection within the Moser catalog just received a pair of updates, and it’s a good reminder that Moser does more than Streamliners and shoe collabs (but we love the shoe collabs). First, let’s look at the Heritage Chronograph White Fumé. Moser tells us this reference was inspired by Moser chronographs from the middle part of the 20th century. It has a classic two register layout with subdials at 9:00 and 3:00, and a tachymeter scale around the dial’s perimeter. The white fumé dial is accented with blue graduations, subdials, and hands, creating great contrast and making the watch feel just a little more at home in 2026, or later (a watch like this would have almost certainly had black printing in the mid 20th century).   The case is 42mm in stainless steel, and the watch is powered by Moser’s HMC 220 caliber, which has been outfitted with a chronograph module in this execution. Moser does make their own chronograph caliber (the HMC 907), so it’s noteworthy that they’ve used their workhorse automatic with a module for this release. It’s likely bor...