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Independent Watchmaking Showcased Virtually SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Dual Dufour Duality Much Mar 11, 2021

Independent Watchmaking Showcased Virtually

A leader retailer of independent watchmaking, Singapore-based The Hour Glass has just inaugurated The Persistence of Memory, a virtual exhibition dedicated to the craft. Covering the period starting from 1970 till today, the exhibition encompasses most of the key figures in independent watchmaking during those five decades. And it is about people, rather than brands, since these timepieces are often, quite literally, the creation of a watchmaker’s mind and hands. I wrote most of the content, and it was written as a brisk journey through the careers of each watchmaker, along with their most important timepieces. The Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain Hosted on a dedicated site, the exhibition is arranged into sections and largely chronological, tracing the evolution of the craft from its start with individuals like George Daniels, to the stars of today, most notably Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia. Other boldface names in the exhibition include Francois-Paul Journe, Kari Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour, and Denis Flageollet. A trio of Resonance by F.P. Journe Dual Dufour Duality Much of the content is illustrated by uncommon and special watches – over 150 in fact – drawn from collections around the world. The line up of timepieces include the two landmark pocket watches by George Daniels, the Space Traveller I and Grand Complication, as well as the most important examples of Philippe Dufour’s work. Visit the exhibition on Thehourglass.com.  

Cartier Debuts a Trio of Flagship Complications SJX Watches
Cartier Debuts Mar 10, 2021

Cartier Debuts a Trio of Flagship Complications

Although the most classic – and simple – of Cartier wristwatches designs have lately enjoyed resurgent popularity, the jeweller still makes exceptionally complicated watches. Its latest is not one but is a three-part set, the Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”. All three watches are amongst the brand’s flagship complications that go beyond design and into the realm of ingenious and unusual watchmaking. And the trio share a common theme of the mysterious display and tourbillon, fusing an optic illusion that is synonymous with Cartier and the rotating regulator. The Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon with a jade cabochon on the crown Initial thoughts Each of the watches in the set is special for how it combines Cartier’s traditional design with intriguing technical details. Although the movements are modern in style – the skeleton bridges have a dark grey finish – the designs remain classical. And the streamlined, “mysterious” construction of the movements belie the complexity of their construction. But the movements are unquestionably appealing, both in concept and execution. A curious mind might ponder how the mechanics seemingly float within the case. It’s an old trick that makes it seem like there is no connection between the movement and the case, but a good one that still has visual impact. While the details of the watches are elegant, all of them are huge. The smallest of the trio is 43.5 mm in diameter, and the larges...

Watches by movement: 5 watches powered with an SW200 from divers to dress Time+Tide
Mar 4, 2021

Watches by movement: 5 watches powered with an SW200 from divers to dress

As far as ubiquitous movements go, the SW200 and its variants is one to make your eyes light up when you see it on a specification sheet. Originally a clone of the ever-loved ETA 2824, once the patent had expired, Sellita’s version remains just as reliable, affordable and well-performing as its ETA twin. The 4Hz … ContinuedThe post Watches by movement: 5 watches powered with an SW200 from divers to dress appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bremont show how to nail a virtual watch event with the world’s greatest mountaineer Time+Tide
Bremont show how Mar 3, 2021

Bremont show how to nail a virtual watch event with the world’s greatest mountaineer

Despite a full 12 months passing since COVID began restricting the places we can go and the people we see, the watch world still hasn’t worked out how to run an interesting event online. Starved of the opportunity to present watches in the metal, the polite way to describe most virtual events is dull at … ContinuedThe post Bremont show how to nail a virtual watch event with the world’s greatest mountaineer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Panerai Submersible 42mm PAM00683 Review WatchAdvice
Panerai Submersible 42mm PAM00683 Review Mar 1, 2021

2021 Panerai Submersible 42mm PAM00683 Review

Pros: Smaller wrist sizes can now enjoy Panerai Adjusting time on the go is super easyThe rubber strap is comfortable on the wrist Cons: Some may appreciate an open case-backNo in-house movement Some may find the pricing to be expensive Overall Rating: 7.8/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10  Released back in 2019 during the SIHH convention, the Panerai Luminor Submersible 42 was a breath of fresh air for dive watch enthusiasts and watch lovers who didn’t want to wear oversized watches. Panerai’s flagship diver model is arguably the PAM1389, which measures at a staggering 47mm case size. PAM00683 In 2016, however, the brand decided to release their first small divers watch, the Panerai Submersible 682. This was a very simplistic timepiece with a date and sub-counter on a black dial featuring a stainless steel bezel. More importantly, the watch came in a much more wearable 42mm case size.  Fast-forward to 2019, Panerai released two different colourways for the Panerai Submersible 682, one of which is what we have for review today. The PAM00683 features much of the same characteristics that the 2016 Submersible 682 had, with the exception being new bezel colour, and more colour on the dial.  PAM00683 Case: The case that the PAM00683, or better known as Luminor Submersible 42 Black Ceramic, comes in is a 42mm stainless steel case with a steel bezel with ceramic black insert. It should be noted that the giant crown gua...

In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 1, 2021

In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs

Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...

INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition Feb 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705”

Heritage is the key buzzword when it comes to watches right now. With many consumers enamored with timepieces of the past, it’s a no-brainer for manufacturers to revive coveted designs and give buyers a chance to acquire new watches inspired by the references of yesteryear. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGC240 140th Anniversary Limited Edition with newly developed polygonal bezel Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGC240 140th Anniversary Limited Feb 24, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGC240 140th Anniversary Limited Edition with newly developed polygonal bezel

The 140th Anniversary celebrations for Seiko are continuing, hot on the heels of the news that – and this is remarkable – both brands actually experienced growth in key markets in 2020. This was revealed last night in a global summit, along with several new models, including this one. A key reason for the upward … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGC240 140th Anniversary Limited Edition with newly developed polygonal bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“How I became totally OCD about the way I handle, clean, and store my watches” Time+Tide
Feb 21, 2021

“How I became totally OCD about the way I handle, clean, and store my watches”

Before I throw myself under the loupe, I would like to make a few things clear. Nobody who knows me would particularly refer to me as Mr. Clean. I am not the guy who straightens the pencil on his desk, or cringes when he spots a pair of mismatched socks peaking out beneath the hem … ContinuedThe post “How I became totally OCD about the way I handle, clean, and store my watches” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 19, 2021

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt

While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...

You cannot be serious! Shouts of “Rolex” could soon replace “Out” calls at the tennis Time+Tide
Rolex could soon replace Feb 17, 2021

You cannot be serious! Shouts of “Rolex” could soon replace “Out” calls at the tennis

It’s turned into a mighty strange Australian Open. Before the Grand Slam event began, many players were herded into quarantine and forced to practise their drop-shots against their hotel-room walls. Next up, crowds were barred from Rod Laver Arena when Melbourne entered a hard five-day lockdown. Yet perhaps the most enduring change from this tournament … ContinuedThe post You cannot be serious! Shouts of “Rolex” could soon replace “Out” calls at the tennis appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Oris Whale Shark Aquis GMT has a textured dial with a bubbly personality Time+Tide
Oris Whale Shark Aquis GMT Feb 16, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Whale Shark Aquis GMT has a textured dial with a bubbly personality

Oris has always harboured a deep respect for the environment and supported efforts to protect the ocean and sea life therein. This isn’t a tokenistic move either. The brand really puts their money where their mouth is, aiming to become CO2 neutral by 2021 and incorporating recycled materials in both their watches and their packaging. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Whale Shark Aquis GMT has a textured dial with a bubbly personality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sex, vodka and a gold watch – when Marlon Brando met Zsa Zsa Garbor Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2021

Sex, vodka and a gold watch – when Marlon Brando met Zsa Zsa Garbor

It was Socrates who suggested that “the male libido is like being chained to a madman”. In Marlon Brando’s case, he was shackled to a veritable asylum. Married three times with two long-term partners, cosy domesticity wasn’t really his “thing”. This, after all was a guy who met his penultimate long-term girlfriend during a threesome … ContinuedThe post Sex, vodka and a gold watch – when Marlon Brando met Zsa Zsa Garbor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The John Robert Archetype is a dressy tool watch from Melbourne with an intriguing linen dial Time+Tide
Feb 11, 2021

VIDEO: The John Robert Archetype is a dressy tool watch from Melbourne with an intriguing linen dial

If you’re looking for a go anywhere, do anything type of watch, but don’t want to spend a fortune, John Robert Wristwatches might be what you’re looking for. Based in Melbourne, but produced in Switzerland, they recently released their debut collection aptly names the Archetype. This collection was born out of a desire to have … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The John Robert Archetype is a dressy tool watch from Melbourne with an intriguing linen dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Is the Tudor Pelagos the overlooked dive watch heavyweight? Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos Feb 8, 2021

HANDS-ON: Is the Tudor Pelagos the overlooked dive watch heavyweight?

Value is a key buzzword in the watch world. Considering this is a luxury industry, any proposition that poses an opportunity to get more than you paid for inspires awe and intrigue from buyers worldwide – and rightfully so. At the same time, Rolex can be a challenging brand for new consumers. The ability to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the Tudor Pelagos the overlooked dive watch heavyweight? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Will Rolex release a gold Explorer-II in April? Time+Tide
Rolex release Feb 4, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Will Rolex release a gold Explorer-II in April?

Things are back in full swing at Time+Tide HQ this year, but the Coronavirus pandemic isn’t done with the watch industry yet. This week we got the announcement that Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) would go ahead this year, in a “phygital” format, which sounds like an unpleasant medical condition, but is actually a term … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Will Rolex release a gold Explorer-II in April? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Piaget’s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets the Skeleton Treatment SJX Watches
Piaget s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets Feb 2, 2021

Piaget’s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets the Skeleton Treatment

Long in Piaget’s catalogue – the original model was introduced in 1979 – the Polo underwent a significant redesign in 2016, transforming the charmingly 1970s original into the Polo S. Now the brand’s entry into the luxury-sports watch segment has received a major facelift with the Polo Skeleton, which boasts an open-worked movement that gives it a strikingly more distinctive aesthetic. But more than just a new face, the Polo Skeleton is also a step up in terms of wearability and sleekness: the open-worked movement results in a thinner case – one that’s a substantial 3 mm slimmer. The result is a case with proportions rivalling those of the thinnest-ever luxury-sports watch made by a certain Italian jeweller. Initial thoughts The revamp of the Polo five years ago stirred controversy, because the Polo S was a departure from the style of the vintage original, and a turn towards fashionable and predictable designs like the recently discontinued Nautilus. Still, the Polo S did combine strong quality with competitive pricing, explaining its subsequent commercial success. The original controversy means the Polo Skeleton is a better idea. Besides being more original visually, it incorporates many of the brand’s technical strengths. Ultra-thin watches are Piaget’s forte – the brand boasts the thinnest mechanical watch ever – and the 1200S  skeleton movement reflects that, being extra-thin and extra-revealing. The Polo Skeleton is a mere 6.5 mm high The Polo...

INTRODUCING: The Piaget Polo Skeleton watch is now 30% thinner at 6.5mm thick Time+Tide
Piaget Polo Skeleton watch Feb 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Piaget Polo Skeleton watch is now 30% thinner at 6.5mm thick

The Piaget Polo was first introduced in 1979, inspired by the jet-setting lifestyle and where luxury met sport. Its release coincided with Piaget becoming a sponsor for Polo tournaments around the world. Yves Piaget personally loved to attend these events, their glamour, sport, and spontaneity inspiring the Polo watch design. The Piaget Polo watch has … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Piaget Polo Skeleton watch is now 30% thinner at 6.5mm thick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Make Mine A Double! The Macallan Whisky Mechanical Hip Flask By Urwerk (With Video) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Urwerk Jan 30, 2021

Make Mine A Double! The Macallan Whisky Mechanical Hip Flask By Urwerk (With Video) – Reprise

Fine watches and fine whisky, for many the two go together like single malt birds of a feather. Urwerk founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei have been known to enjoy a smooth amber tipple or two, and as discerning gentlemen with discerning taste in haute horlogerie it's perhaps not surprising that Baumgartner and Frei also have discerning taste when it comes to whisky: single malt by The Macallan.