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Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton kicks off its 2026 with a pair of precious metal Escale travel watch collections, which both offer novel complications.The post Louis Vuitton’s Escale goes globetrotting and complicated with the Worldtime and Twin Zone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Nestled in the Jura Mountains, La Chaux-de-Fonds has been a cradle of Swiss watchmaking ever since its watchmaking school, the Technicum, opened in 1865. For aspiring watchmakers, the climax of their training was traditionally the creation of a montre école – or what’s known as a school watch. This is the story of Hugues Bürki, a Technicum alumnus, who built what would become a record-breaking school watch, and who would later make horological history as a movement engineer. Hugues Bürki. Image – author The Technicum The watchmaking school of La Chaux-de-Fonds was founded in 1865. In its early days, the school occupied rooms inside the modestly named ‘Technicum’, a local vocational-technical school. By 1885, the school’s own building had been inaugurated, yet the name Technicum stuck. In 1933, in the wake of the global economic crisis, the nearby watchmaking schools in La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle were merged to form the Technicum Neuchâtelois. The Technicum in the 1960s. Image – author It demands attention that both divisions of the Technicum Neuchâtelois had a particularly strong focus on high-precision chronometry at the time compared to other watchmaking schools in Switzerland, which specialised in other domains, such as the construction of complications and traditional finishing techniques. In fact, some of the innovations in chronometry we associate with brands like Longines can actually trace their roots to the Technicum Neuchâtelois, including...
Fratello
If you’ve listened to Balazs and me on Fratello On Air, you’ll know that I have a huge crush on Parmigiani Fleurier. Specifically, the Tonda PF 36mm is on my radar, but if my wrist were larger, today’s watch would be a likely candidate. Specifically, the brand has introduced the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Blue, […] Visit Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Blue to read the full article.
Deployant
Citizen’s new Attesa “Shades of Red” pair sits in an interesting space: technical showpieces wrapped in a restrained, almost atmospheric design language. Both models lean on the imagery of a total lunar eclipse, but they approach the theme from different angles, which keeps the set from feeling repetitive.
Fratello
Let bygones be bygones. When the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection debuted in January 2019 at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), the reception was mixed, to put it mildly. Since then, the collection has evolved and become increasingly refined. The upgrade that won me over was the elaborate stamped dial that […] Visit Three New “Codes” To Crack: Two 38mm Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Watches And One 41mm Tourbillon to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
There are certain “easy wins” with watch enthusiasts that brands rely on. Put a line of red text on a black dial diver, and you’ll get some smiles. Add a micro-adjust to your clasp, and you’ll avoid some angry emails. Drill your lugs, and… well, I at least will be excited. And when it comes to chronographs, a sure-fire way to get some attention is to invert your sub-dials. Yep, though it has been done countless times, “panda” dials still get the thumbs-up from us nerds. So, it was no surprise that the recently released “Black and White” Speedmasters (which, to those of us from NYC, brings to mind a certain iconic cookie before a watch dial) were received with much excitement. Take one of the most celebrated watches in production, give it a dial treatment that is hard to mess up, and, unsurprisingly, you have a hit. Well done, Omega. Yeah, the Speedmaster Black and White is very nice looking To make matters more exciting, despite the many, many, many versions of Speedmasters over the years, Pandas are not common among them. I’m no Speedy scholar, so my internal reference archive isn’t complete, but having been the occasional Speedy customer, I know that pandas were few and far between, usually limited, or precious metal, and rarely a “reverse” or “evil” panda (white sub-dial on a black surface) in form. That this new model is available in steel and not limited actually makes them special, by not being special. The dilemma, if you can call it th...
Monochrome
Pforzheim is known as Germany’s “Golden City” for its jewellery and watchmaking (alongside Glashütte) activities, and both Laco and Circula have deep roots there. Each brand is celebrating an anniversary, 100 years for Laco and 70 years for Circula, and they’ve partnered to celebrate with a pair of watches honouring each brand and German watchmaking […]
Fratello
Collaborations in high watchmaking are nothing new, but most stop at the wrist. The LA VDB-03 Louis Varius Project goes a step further by pairing a modern GMT wristwatch with a large mechanical clock designed to wind and reset it automatically. Developed jointly by Louis Vuitton and De Bethune, the project brings together a contemporary […] Visit Introducing: The Louis Vuitton × De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A long defunct Geneva watchmaker, Niton has been revived and is getting off the ground with the Prima, a historically-inspired jump hour watch. With some serious tricks up its sleeve – the proprietary calibre is surprisingly excellent – the Prima might just be the right new-meets-old infusion the watch market needs. Initial thoughts Bringing back defunct but once illustrious watch manufactures is not a sure thing, and Niton might be more challenging than most given the lack of name recognition. The brand, however, did have a glorious, if short, history. The introductory model of the recently revived brand is the Prima. While the watch takes its inspiration from pieces made in the 1930s, the overall impression is more evocative of retro-futuristic 1960s. Rounded typography, thick indices, and a concentric pattern on the central minutes disk all make for a look that’s equally comforting and refined. Arguably the best surprise is the in-house NHS01 inside the Prima. A square movement developed in-house, the ambitious, hand-wound NHS01 integrates the jump hour complication with the in-line minutes disk and small seconds display, all while bearing the coveted Poinçon de Genève. Seeing a small independent brand earn the demanding hallmark for its first run of pieces is nothing short of amazing. Both versions of the Prima sit at under the CHF50,000 mark, which places the model in the upper echelons of pricy independent time-only watches. However, one might argue the P...
Teddy Baldassarre
As we all well know by now, the watch-collecting hobby can get hyper-specific. Today, I am wading into the weeds of one of the most highly specialized sub-genres of the Seiko collecting universe, that of Japanese Domestic Market pieces from the brand, which I will be referring to here on out as JDM Seikos. Down below, I’m going to walk you through, first and foremost, what the term JDM Seiko actually means, then get into the most universally coveted models, and similar watches that you can more easily find in the brand’s international repertoire. [toc-section heading="JDM Seikos vs. “Japanese-Made”Seikos"] Image: Provenance Watches Given that Seiko is one of Japan’s most significant and historic watchmakers, you might be asking, as you find yourself here in this section, “Seiko is a Japanese brand, so aren’t all Seikos Japanese-Made?” As with most things, the answer is not as straightforward as the question. If we were to base our answer on the framework dictated by the U.S. Trade Commission standards, any watch that has a movement assembled in Japan is good enough to be considered Japanese-made. This casts a pretty wide net. Japan, on the other hand, follows the more rigorous parameters set by the APEC (Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation Forum). Based on APEC standards, a watch movement and dial components must be assembled in Japan to rightfully claim “Japanese Made” status. Across its catalog, if Seiko can rightly claim the “Japanese Made” label ...
Monochrome
In recent years, Audemars Piguet has decisively refined the Code 11.59 collection, transforming it into a serious platform for contemporary haute horlogerie. For 2026, the brand unveils a fresh interpretation of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon, now with an ivory-toned signature dial and a sophisticated mix of white gold and black […]
Monochrome
For its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has chosen a format that predates the wristwatch yet remains central to the brand’s most ambitious technical expressions: the pocket watch. The new 150e Héritage pocket watch directly references the Manufacture’s historic ultra-complicated pocket watches of 1899 (L’Universelle) and 1921 (La Grosse Pièce). It is also connected to milestones […]
Fratello
I vividly remember visiting the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), the predecessor of Watches and Wonders, in Geneva in 2010. Alongside Richard Mille, Richemont Group brands, and a few others, Audemars Piguet showcased its latest creations. That year, the Royal Oak Openworked ref. 15305 stood out to me. It was based on the […] Visit Introducing: New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked And Malachite-Dial Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s latest Overseas Tourbillon pairs a titanium case with a deep red dial, recalling last year’s perpetual calendar, showcasing the cal. 2160 with peripheral rotor, refined finishing, and a slow beating one minute tourbillon. It represents the finest of industrial fine watchmaking with high-end construction inside and out. Initial Thoughts Last August Vacheron Constantin launched a pair of new Overseas Perpetual Calendars, one in burgundy and the other pink-on-pink. I felt the “deep red” dial – as Vacheron Constantin calls it – works particularly well against the white gold case, and the light blue accents were a nice touch. Nothing has changed on that front, the colour pallette looks just as good now as it did then, but is now lighter, thanks to the titanium case, and equipped more impressive movement. While the Overseas Perpetual’s movement somewhat lags behind its competition, the Overseas Tourbillon has a more competitive calibre, which holds its own against the Royal Oak Tourbillons, and wins by default against the non-existent Nautilus Tourbillon. That said, it is hardly a value within its segment, with estimated pricing comparable to Audemars Piguet’s blue-chip Royal Oak Tourbillons, though that is more than fair when you put aside brand caché and focus purely on the product. Case and Bracelet The Overseas case is well made and well finished by any standard, though not quite as complex as its counterparts from Audemars Piguet and P...
Hodinkee
A limited edition travel watch and a pair of incredible Sympathique clocks form the latest Indie-driven collaboration for Louis Vuitton.
Worn & Wound
I’ll be honest and say it right off the bat: the G-SHOCK MRGB2000KT3A is not for me. Still, I am just one person in an endless ocean of watch enthusiasts, so I’ll try to take a look at the MRGB2000KT3A through the eyes of someone it is for. After all, I am not immune to the allure of a G-SHOCK; I’ve owned several, and they’ll always have a place in my heart as one of the first watch brands that I really loved. So, with my new persona adopted, let’s dive into the newest-and most limited-model in the MRG-B2000 series. The first notable thing about the MRGB2000KT3A is the name attached to it. Kobayashi Masao, a master metalsmith and engraver from Otsu, Shiga Prefecture, has lent his craft to the watch in a big way, etching a phoenix on the bezel. Perhaps I am making that sound rather tame, though; to clarify, the phoenix peeks out from the left side of the bezel, with flames mirroring its position on the right side. The engraving’s dramatic persona is based on the phoenix design on the tsuba iron guard-a fitting between a Japanese sword’s hilt and the blade-of Kobayashi Masao’s MR-G katana, making a connection between the watch and the artist’s own line of work. The deep-layer hardened titanium bezel wears a distinctive blue-green kurogane-iro (“iron color”) shade, thanks to a green DLC coating and brown Arc Ion Plating (AIP). Stippling further texturizes the bezel, and four emerald-capped screws sit at the 1, 5, 7, and 11 o’clock positions. No...
Time+Tide
The Rolex Day-Date is inarguably one of the most iconic watches of all time, but Jason Lee argues that its ref. 1803 guise might be its best.The post An owner’s review of the vintage Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803, and why it’s such an underrated watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Today, we go hands-on with a watch from one of my favorite small brands. Atelier Wen rarely misses a beat with its releases, and the new Millésime Perception Xuán is no exception. As we’ll see, it uses a familiar platform but trades engraving for stoneworking. Plus, for those who struggle with the idea of a […] Visit Hands-On: The New Atelier Wen Millésime Perception Xuán to read the full article.
Monochrome
Simple solutions to complex problems could well be Dr Ludwig Oechslin’s overriding philosophy. Former curator of the Musée international d’horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Oechslin studied archaeology as an undergraduate and obtained a PhD in Philosophy – with a scholarship to study theoretical physics and astronomy – and became a Swiss master watchmaker in 1983. Bringing […]
Monochrome
The Dakar is the true stuff of legends. And it’s not just the historic editions that still leave many of us in awe, the yearly adventure is still the playing field for the creme de la creme in rallying. Each competitor, whether on two wheels or in a car or truck, has to battle the […]
Fratello
Orient Star unveils a duo of classy timepieces that reflect the graceful passage of time. Compared with recent Orient Star designs, the M45 F8 pares it back to pure functionality and traditional layouts. The Roman numerals add a sense of dignity, and the moonphase complication connects our world to the cosmos. A white-dial variant joins […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s flagship boutique in Singapore is host to Tokyo Time, an event designed to bring the vibrancy of Tokyo into the heart of Singapore. Thematically, the event focuses on the people of the world’s largest city experiencing the flow of time. As explained by Ida Idris-Low, Managing Director of Grand Seiko APAC, “Tokyo is defined by a beautiful intricacy – eight distinct districts moving in tandem, each with its own culture and cadence”. Ref. SLGH0055 White Birch in Kagurazaka. Image – Seiko Watch Corp / Gregory Harris In order to capture this, the brand enlisted New Zealand-based photographer Gregory Harris to shoot each watch in situ. The pop-up seeks to connect eight Grand Seiko watches to eight parts of Tokyo. For example, Mr Harris shot the Tentagraph ref. SLGC001 in Toyosu, a man-made island home to the world’s largest wholesale fish market. The Icefall ref. SBGH347 was paired with Roppongi, known for its museums by day and clubs by night. Ginza’s champion is the Evolution 9 U.F.A. Ice Forest ref. SLGB003 – Grand Seiko’s most significant launch of last year. Ref. SBGW301 in Daikanyama. Image – Seiko Watch Corp / Gregory Harris Hosted by Grand Seiko, Tokyo Time takes place from January 16-29 at the brand’s Marina Bay Sands boutique. The exhibition is free and open to the public without registration. For more information visit the dedicated page on Grand-Seiko.com.
Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac and Racquet magazine are back with their latest tennis-inspired timepiece just in time for the 2026 Australian Open, a blacked-out version of their Rallymaster watch inspired by the night sessions at the year’s first Grand Slam tournament - and another unlikely source. “I was really thinking about the surf culture around Australia,” said designer Carlton DeWoody. The Rallymaster IV keeps the 39mm case of past editions, but adds a black PVD coating, a black nylon with a single luminous white stripe down the center, and a black dial with a white net motif and one burst of color - neon purple, navy, light blue - in the seconds subdial. It all comes together into something edgier than you’d typically see in the tennis world and even with the various nods to tennis in the Rallymaster’s design, that surf inspiration is still apparent. DeWoody has looked for inspiration in other sports since he started designing the first edition of the Rallymaster ahead of its 2022 release. “A lot of my inspiration that looks like it’s tennis kind of came from other sports,” said DeWoody. “That tennis net motif was actually inspired by a racing chronograph. When you take the checkered flag and you kind of zero out to black and white, it becomes a grid. And that has a direct relationship to the grid of the net.” The Rallymaster series has always been colorful, with past editions featuring pastel pinks and baby blues, but the Rallymaster IV may be the m...
Hodinkee
The new Tambour shows off and celebrates the hand-turned guilloché skills from La Fabrique du Temps.
Deployant
The Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime returns in 2026 with a pair of platinum models, one with a tourbillon and enamel dial elements. Press release with commentary in italics Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Commentary The Escale Worldtime has been a defining model for the Escale collection since its debut in 2014. In fact, I’d go oneRead More
Monochrome
For LVMH Watch Week 2026, Hublot adds Sage Green editions to its Classic Fusion line: a 33mm quartz, a 42mm automatic, and a 45mm chronograph, introducing a soft, pastel tone to bridge sportiness and sophistication. Just like earlier Essential Grey and Taupe releases, these new references pair contemporary colour with a certain understated attire. The […]
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton sharpens its haute horlogerie credentials with the Escale Minute Repeater, a chiming complication paired with a jump hour and retrograde minutes display. Built around La Fabrique du Temps’s proven minute repeater calibre, the watch trades the previous Escale minute repeater’s world time function for a cleaner, more focused dial dominated by grey flammé guilloché. The result puts Louis Vuitton in direct competition with established players in complicated watchmaking, and comes complete with a discreet repeater slide hidden within the signature trunk-inspired lugs. Initial thoughts On the back of a strong 2025, Louis Vuittion doubles down on haute horlogerie, now in a more traditional case than last year’s Tambour. While the brand still offers the quartz Tambour Street Diver for just a few thousand dollars, Louis Vuittion’s ambitions clearly lie in the high-end. After years of strategic acquisitions and investments, the brand has the industrial base to compete and the know-how to do things its own way. The Escale Minute Repeater is the embodiment of Louis Vuitton’s ambitions, and is competitive with other minute repeaters from established haute horlogerie brands thanks to its modern movement and tasteful details. In short, it shows the brand understands the tastes of the day, and, more importantly, how to deliver a compelling package that leans into Louis Vuitton’s unique legacy and brand DNA. Furthermore, the minute repeater is something of a s...
Fratello
Although the Classic Fusion collection represents Hublot’s earliest heritage, the Big Bang is arguably the brand’s bread and butter. Today, we see several new additions to the lineup. The novelties range from the design-heavy Big Bang Unicorn SR_A to the new pastel-colored Coal Blue models. In this release overview, we’ll briefly cover some of the […] Visit Introducing: New Additions To The Hublot Big Bang Lineup - Samuel Ross And Coal Blue to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton revives its emblematic Escale Worldtime complication with significant technical upgrades and metiers d’art craftsmanship. Powered by a new family of mid-sized movement from La Fabrique du Temps, the collection comprises two models distinguished by their decorative treatments: the standard Worldtime features a hand-painted flag disc reproducing the brand’s iconic trunk motifs, while the Worldtime Flying Tourbillon elevates the execution with an arduously made champlevé grand feu enamel city ring requiring 40 firings to achieve its kaleidoscopic palette. This reimagining of the worldtime complication draws directly from Louis Vuitton’s heritage of hand-painted personalised monograms on historical trunks - a visual language no other watchmaker can authentically claim - translating the brand’s trunk-making legacy into haute horlogerie. Initial thoughts Last year, Louis Vuitton launched a new line of high-end movements built and decorated to the standards of industrial-haute horlogerie automatics from the likes of Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe. These movements debuted in the Tambour Taiko Spin Time, a complication requiring a small-diameter movement - 23 mm in that case. Though finely made, these movements were arguably too small for a ~40 mm watch, as seen with the otherwise excellent Monterey re-issue. Demonstrating the impressive capacity of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Louis Vuitton has filled that void in its movement portfolio with a li...
Fratello
LVMH Watch Week is underway, and some of the most anticipated releases at this annual event always come from TAG Heuer. Thankfully, this year, people will likely not be disappointed. The Carrera is front and center for 2026 with an array of exciting new releases. Today, we’ll give a brief overview of each. TAG Heuer […] Visit TAG Heuer Introduces An Exciting Handful Of Carrera Novelties to read the full article.
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