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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

3,215 articles · 275 videos found · page 23 of 117

In Depth: Laboratoire de Précision SJX Watches
Omega Constellation Observatory we were Apr 9, 2026

In Depth: Laboratoire de Précision

Alongside the launch of the Omega Constellation Observatory, we were among the first members of the public granted access to the Swatch Group’s Laboratoire de Précision (LP), a new independent chronometer testing institute with facilities in Omega’s native Biel/Bienne and Villeret. The new organisation does not redefine chronometer norms, but it has developed a new acoustic certification process that is more automated and provides client brands with a richer performance data set - a unique capability that has implications beyond mere certification. Laboratoire de Précision. Image – Omega Initial thoughts The debut of the Constellation Observatory, the first watch certified by LP and the first-ever two-handed Master Chronometer, was greeted with a mixed feedback from both collectors and the press. Some found the choice to launch a chronometer without a seconds hand heretical, viewing it as a gimmick to promote LP’s new testing process. The Omega Constellation Observatory is the first watch to complete chronometer certification at LP. Regardless of how one feels about the two-handed aspect of the watch - I found the design balanced and appealing, even if the concept is a bit quirky - the launch placed a renewed focus on the way official chronometers are tested and certified. Many were confused by the claimed novelty of acoustic testing, given the universal presence of Witschi machines on watchmakers’ benches. Indeed, the method is not new. What is new is t...

Universal Geneve is Back – Here’s the New Polerouter Worn & Wound
Universal Genève Apr 8, 2026

Universal Geneve is Back – Here’s the New Polerouter

While the watch industry braces for Watches & Wonders next week and anticipates a flurry of new releases to discuss that will take us through the next several months of watch discourse, today is actually the day that many collectors and enthusiasts have been waiting for for years: the debut of new watches from Universal Geneve. When it was announced that the brand would be formally relaunched by Georges Kern back in December of 2023, speculation began immediately as to what we would eventually see. Little tidbits have come out in dribs and drabs over the last two years, but today the watch community finally gets a look at what Universal Geneve will be in the modern era, at least to start.  A few things are very apparent from the outset. This is a big swing on the part of Kern and others steering the ship at Universal. They could have gone small, and introduced a one or two references to reintroduce the brand to the community slowly, but instead they’ve come out o the gate with nearly 40 SKUs, with prices ranging from a relatively modest $14,000 all the way up to $320,000 for an elaborate jewelry focused Cabriolet (and that’s the only elaborate, jewelry focused piece). The other thing that’s clear is that the launch feels focused on the Polerouter, a Gerald Genta design that is likely the most well known watch under the broader Universal Geneve banner. It got the reference book treatment a few years back, and, once upon a time, was one of the most frequently recommen...

Going Back To The Beginning With The Makina Uriel_VII Fratello
Apr 8, 2026

Going Back To The Beginning With The Makina Uriel_VII

Over the past year, I have had the pleasure of reviewing three watches from Makina. The young Filipino brand has quickly demonstrated a wide range of offerings. What ties the different models together is their combination of industrial, almost futuristic design that still features a good injection of classic watchmaking elegance. With the new Makina […] Visit Going Back To The Beginning With The Makina Uriel_VII to read the full article.

Introducing – Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao Presents the new AB-05 Skylight Series Monochrome
Apr 8, 2026

Introducing – Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao Presents the new AB-05 Skylight Series

Over the past few years, Qian GuoBiao, an independent watchmaker working in Dongguan, China, known as “the tourbillon doctor“, has established a quite disciplined design language, shaped by his background in the restoration and application of traditional hand-finishing. His earlier watches focused on clarity, proportion and the display of mechanics, incorporating visible balances without resorting […]

In Depth: The Horological Evolution of Jacob & Co. SJX Watches
Casio n Apr 8, 2026

In Depth: The Horological Evolution of Jacob & Co.

Since “Jacob and Jeweller” made its first foray into fine watchmaking two decades ago, Jacob & Co. has positioned itself as a master of maximalism in all its forms, both bejewelled and technical, with some of the brands’s most audacious creations free of gem-setting entirely. The story of Jacob & Co.’s rise as an independent watchmaker features a celebrated cast of constructors. While other brands focused on vertical integration, Jacob & Co. opted to become a patron of promising complication specialists and independent watchmakers, funding their visions while challenging them with its own. Now, 20 years on, Jacob & Co. has evolved into a major player in the ultra-high end watchmaking segment, and is one of the fastest growing brands in an otherwise downbeat market; according to the brand, its 2025 watch sales were close to CHF300 million at retail. The brand’s obvious success is due to both its astute commercial instincts, founder Jacob Arabo’s inimitable personality, and also its ability to bring technically demanding movements to market and iterate on them with remarkable regularity. The gongs of a minute repeating Astronomia, one of the line’s many flankers. Few brands have managed to build credibility in both jewellry and watchmaking simultaneously. On the occasion of the brand’s 40th anniversary, it’s worth looking at how Jacob & Co. has succeeded where others have failed. Chapter 1: The Quenttin Jacob & Co.’s first 20 years were somewhat quiet on...

Introducing – Ressence Unveils the Type 11 Powered by its First Proprietary Movement Monochrome
Ressence Unveils Apr 7, 2026

Introducing – Ressence Unveils the Type 11 Powered by its First Proprietary Movement

Since its founding in 2010 in Antwerp by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, indie brand Ressence has positioned itself as a design-led watch studio that literally rethinks how time is displayed on the wrist. Animated by Ressence’s Orbital Convex System (ROCS), time circles around the dial like planets orbiting the Sun, using highly graphic and […]

Ressence Debuts the Type 11, with the All New In-House RW-01 Movement Worn & Wound
Ressence Debuts Apr 7, 2026

Ressence Debuts the Type 11, with the All New In-House RW-01 Movement

For as long as we’ve talked about Ressence, part of the discussion has always been about how clever they are for producing such an ingenious and unique system for time telling, all built on top of a standard, off-the-shelf ETA movement. Their patented ROCS module, which displays the time via a series of rotating discs rather than traditional hands, is a complicated piece of engineering that has always lived alongside a caliber that is rather ordinary. For me, and many others, this was always part of the charm of a Ressence watch, and underscored the idea that watchmaking is a broad discipline and that with some creativity even a simple ETA movement can be turned into something extraordinary.  That changes a little today with the introduction of the Ressence Type 11, featuring the all new RW-01 movement, the first in-house designed Ressence movement. Designed specifically to power the ROCS, the RW-01 is an integrated, automatic caliber that appears to be an improvement in just about every way over previous movements found in Ressence watches.  First and perhaps most notably, this movement has a 60 hour power reserve, which can be monitored on the dial via ceramic micro balls. For years, Ressence watches have featured power reserves that topped out at slightly less than the ETA movements they were based on due to the demands of running the ROCS module. But the RW-01 was designed from the ground up to work with ROCS, eliminating many of the compromises made with previous ...

Industry News – Kross Studio Rebranded to Marco Tedeschi, Unveils the MT1.1 Tourbillon 7 Jours Monochrome
Apr 7, 2026

Industry News – Kross Studio Rebranded to Marco Tedeschi, Unveils the MT1.1 Tourbillon 7 Jours

Over the past years, Kross Studio has emerged as an intriguing player in independent watchmaking. Founded just before the pandemic, the company has grown, gaining visibility through a series of collaborations inspired by pop culture – a deliberate departure from traditional watchmaking narratives – while at the same time demonstrating genuine technical credibility. Behind the […]

Anton Suhanov Returns with the Flamingo SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey s watches Apr 7, 2026

Anton Suhanov Returns with the Flamingo

Russian independent watchmaker and ACHI member Anton Suhanov returns with his third wristwatch, the dynamic Flamingo. Featuring Mr Suhanov’s first in-house movement, the Flamingo positions its massive balance wheel dial-side, and has a few other tricks up its sleeve as well.  Initial thoughts Anton Suhanov made a name for himself for his inventive clocks, but more recently has turned his attention toward the more lucrative wristwatch market. Mr Suhanov’s first two wristwatches were modular constructions piggybacked on stock movements. Despite this common approach, his modifications were transformative, making his movements feel more personal and “in-house” than some truly in-house movements that are more traditional in concept. This evident commitment to the craft quickly gained Mr Suhanov a good reputation.    After about four years of development, Mr Suhanov has unveiled a calibre he can truly call his own, the cal. Su26.1L. He built the movement from scratch, which gave him complete freedom both in terms of design and functionality. The result is a movement that possesses a number of unique and charming traits, both technical and aesthetic in nature.  While the design of the Flamingo as a whole is deeply original (especially the use of non-functional ruby pallets for the hands), some elements on the dial side remind me of similar features of Greubel Forsey’s watches. For example, the two small sub-dials - a 24-hour indicator and small seconds - are rem...

Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Watch, the Thundergraph Khumbu Worn & Wound
Apr 6, 2026

Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Watch, the Thundergraph Khumbu

Last week, Albishorn unveiled the latest in their ongoing series of “Imaginary Vintage” watches, the Thundergraph Kumbu. Founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet nearly two years ago, Albishorn is a high concept indie focused on a very specific strain of vintage watch inspiration. The watches that make up the Albishorn collection not only take their design cues from vintage watches, they are conceived as that never existed, but could have, and provide, as Chaumontet puts it, “a missing link” between the past and present. That centers each new watch on the idea of storytelling, and Albishorn has created elaborate imaginary backstories for each of their watches released to this point. (You can find our previous coverage of the brand here). The new watch from Albishorn, the Thundergraph Khumbu, is a new take on last year’s Thundergraph Himalaya, a chronograph conceived for alpine exploration. The idea here essentially was that on a climb, an alpinist would need easy legibility and the benefit of a rotating bezel to time ascent phases. The oversized crown and bezel, and monopusher chronograph execution, are also intended as design nods that would benefit a climber in difficult terrain (of course, these are straightforward tool watch design codes that could be applied to any number of situations – but that’s where the storytelling piece kicks in).  For the new Thundergraph Khumbu, Albishorn has introduced a green dial, which the brand says is inspired by the landscapes ...

Hands-On With The Impressive Casio Edifice EFK-110 Series - A Welcome Evolution Of The EFK-100 Fratello
Casio Edifice EFK-110 Series - Apr 5, 2026

Hands-On With The Impressive Casio Edifice EFK-110 Series - A Welcome Evolution Of The EFK-100

It’s been just roughly six months since Casio released the Edifice EFK-100, which received widespread critical acclaim as the brand’s first line of mechanical watches. As you will understand, then, we were quite surprised to see these new Edifice EFK-110 models land on our desks. At first glance, you would think that nothing has changed. […] Visit Hands-On With The Impressive Casio Edifice EFK-110 Series - A Welcome Evolution Of The EFK-100 to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: New Bags from Peak Design, a Documentary on a Brooklyn Based Calligraphy Artist, and a Baltic Review from the Archives Worn & Wound
Accutron Apr 4, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: New Bags from Peak Design, a Documentary on a Brooklyn Based Calligraphy Artist, and a Baltic Review from the Archives

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Four New Bags from Peak Design  Peak Design recently funded their latest Kickstarter campaign for four new travel bags, though it might be more accurate to say they obliterated their initial goal of $100,000, as over $2 million has been raised to this point. Peak Design is one of our favorite bag and accessory brands, and their latest offerings are all travel oriented, and offer something for everyone. There’s the Travel Backpack 2-in-1, the Travel Crossbody 3L, the Travel Backpack 20L, and the Travel Weekender 25L. Operating under the philosophy that no two trips are the same, Peak has created four separate carry solutions for specific travel circumstances, rather than trying to create a catch-all, one bag for everything solution that might make a ton of compromises. You can learn more about the new bags at their Kickstarter page right here. The Fine Line Documentary  If you came to our recent event with Accutron and Esterbrook, you may have met Mohammed, aka @thebrooklynscribe, a calligraphy artist based in, you guessed it, Brooklyn. It just so happens that only days after our event, a new short documentary on Mohammed premired on YouTube. You can watch The Fine ...

Recap: An Analog Evening with Accutron, Esterbrook, and The Brooklyn Scribe at the Windup Watch Shop Showroom Worn & Wound
Accutron Esterbrook Apr 3, 2026

Recap: An Analog Evening with Accutron, Esterbrook, and The Brooklyn Scribe at the Windup Watch Shop Showroom

Last Thursday evening, the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom played host to a packed house for a special event celebrating the intersection of watchmaking and writing instruments, with Accutron and Esterbrook taking center stage. Envisioned as an intimate opportunity to go hands-on with Accutron’s latest Spaceview 314 collection, the event quickly evolved into a lively, tactile experience that blended horology, craftsmanship, and a shared appreciation for design heritage. Guests filtered in throughout the evening, filling the space with energy as conversations sparked over Accutron’s open-work dials, Tuning Fork technology, and the parallels between both timekeeping and writing instruments. Accutron’s team was on hand to walk attendees through the technical and aesthetic nuances of the Spaceview 314, offering a closer look at the brand’s continued evolution of its Tuning Fork movement technology. American writing instrument maker, Esterbrook, unveiled a new fountain pen inspired by Accutron’s signature Spaceview design language, creating a compelling collab between the two brands-one rooted in time, the other in communication, but both strong examples of personal expression. But what truly elevated the evening was the addition of live, custom calligraphy by The Brooklyn Scribe. Throughout the night, guests were invited to commission personalized pieces, turning names, phrases, and moments into beautifully rendered works of art. The presence of hand letter...

Zach Weiss Launches OraOrea with the Coriolis Pointer Date SJX Watches
Apr 3, 2026

Zach Weiss Launches OraOrea with the Coriolis Pointer Date

With the debut of Zach Starr Weiss’s OraOrea comes the introduction of the Coriolis Pointer Date. Having founded Worn & Wound in 2011 and the Windup Watch Fair in 2015, Mr Weiss brings an enthusiast’s eye and and insider’s perspective to his own brand. Initial thoughts An industrial designer before founding Worn & Wound, Brooklyn-based Zach Starr Weiss has put his experience to work with the launch of his own brand, OraOrea, which translates loosely as ‘golden hour.’ The debut model, the Coriolis Pointer Date, features its namesake complication alongside several clever and expensive details, including solid 18k gold hemispheres on the dial, and curved seconds and minutes hands. I got to see the watch ahead of its debut and the quality of the dial finishing is evident. The design is arguably a bit crowded - a time-only variant would help with that - but the three-dimensionality of the design helps keep things interesting. The case checks all the boxes for a go-anywhere, do-anything-style watch, with a 38.5 mm stainless steel case rated to 100 m, despite a standard push/pull crown. The robustness of the case may seem like overkill, but Mr Weiss rightly understands that there’s a segment of passionate collectors for whom 100 m is the bare minimum for a watch intended for daily wear. Intricate dial The dial is notable for its massive laser-cut and hand-polished index, which encircles the dial. This so-called ‘oscillating index’ features alternately spaced R...

Introducing: The Streamlined Desder D001 - A Wrist-Worn Sculpture With A Triple-Axis Tourbillon Fratello
Apr 3, 2026

Introducing: The Streamlined Desder D001 - A Wrist-Worn Sculpture With A Triple-Axis Tourbillon

Let me introduce you to Mo Coppoletta and Luca Soprana, founders of the new watch brand Desder. Italian-born Coppoletta, who’s based in London, is best known as a tattoo artist, designer, and art director. He founded the influential London studio The Family Business in 2003, which became a global reference point for high-end tattooing, before […] Visit Introducing: The Streamlined Desder D001 - A Wrist-Worn Sculpture With A Triple-Axis Tourbillon to read the full article.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Apr 2, 2026

Checking in with the Worn & Wound Community: Our Core Values and Commitments

Hi, how’s everyone doing? We hope your 2026 is off to a great start. It’s already been an incredibly busy year for the Worn & Wound team and the watch industry as a whole. Between new releases on the blog, hosting the Dallas Windup Watch Fair, and all the new releases dropping in our shop, we’ve hit the ground running. Like many of you, we are currently gearing up for an exciting Watches & Wonders, and with a packed calendar of events and some big projects in the works, the rest of the year is shaping up to be one of our most active yet. However, alongside the excitement of the watch community, the first part of this year has also been a period of significant turmoil globally. In the professional world, there is often a desire to “avoid politics” and stay focused strictly on business. But when our news feeds are filled with instability, uncertainty, and, sadly, tragedy, the conversation shifts. Over the past several months, our team has found itself caught in these discussions. In times like these, we find ourselves relying more than ever on the strength of our community. We’ve realized that as Worn & Wound grows, we have both a responsibility and a desire to be a genuine source for good. While we began as a place to celebrate the technical and the aesthetic, we have grown into a global community, and we believe that community should stand for more than just the products we collect. So, the Worn & Wound team has gotten together and solidified how we want to act...

Heinrich Continues to Expand their Radiance Line with the “Wave” Worn & Wound
Apr 1, 2026

Heinrich Continues to Expand their Radiance Line with the “Wave”

Heinrich, the German brand that as of late has specialized in elaborate, machine finished dials in an array of bright colors (all set inside impeccably machined and finished cases) has just released the latest in their ongoing Radiance collection. The Guilloche Wave follows the Guilloche Swirl and the original Radiance, and continues to carve out the brand’s dress watch catalog. This is a somewhat unlikely turn for Heinrich, a brand that prior to the Radiance was primarily known for their modern tool watches. It’s been interesting to see how they’ve adapted easily to current trends for classical finishing with a contemporary twist, and creative use of materials, both design tenets that have always been readily observable under the surface at Heinrich, but seem to have found a moment in these last few years.  If you’re familiar with recent versions of the Radiance, the new Guilloche Wave will not exactly appear groundbreaking, but it does offer a new option for enthusiasts who either missed out on prior editions or simply want a dial with a more traditional guilloche execution. The Guilloche Wave has, you guessed it, a wave-like guilloche pattern emanating from the dial’s center. It’s interrupted by a lightly textured and rather small subsidiary seconds register at 6:00, and ends at a chapter ring surrounding the dial’s perimeter. The hour markers on these watches are not discussed enough – they’re applied and have a distinctive series of vertical lines r...

Cleguer Debuts with Proprietary ‘Innate’ Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s natural escapement Apr 1, 2026

Cleguer Debuts with Proprietary ‘Innate’ Escapement

In the run-up to Watches & Wonders, a new crop of emergent independents is making its debut. But even within a crowded field, the Cleguer Inspiration One manages to stand out with an ambitious proprietary escapement and clever construction. It’s a promising start for founder Mathieu Cleguer, an engineer who’s had a hand in developing several calibres for well-known independent brands. Initial thoughts The artisanal, highly finished time-only watch is a well-worn trope among independents, but occasionally one breaks from the pattern. The Inspiration One from Cleguer Horology is one such watch. Mathieu Cleguer is an industry veteran who has worked as a movement construction consultant and now produces watches under his own name. The opening salvo in what is planned to be a larger ‘Inspiration’ series designed to explore alternative escapements, the Inspiration One is built around the so-called innate escapement, a fresh twist on Breguet’s natural escapement. The system is Mathieu Cleguer’s own design, and from initial analysis it exhibits a surprising degree of ingenuity and is original in its execution. Discreet signature on the interior bezel. The open design - an off-centre dial with exposed escapement - is a familiar arrangement among independents, but the delicacy of the components gives it a refined quality. The 38.5 mm case is well-proportioned, though the 12 mm height borders on tall. While there’s room to develop a more cohesive design language goi...

First Look – Cleguer Horology Launches with the Inspiration One Souscription and a new “Innate” Escapement Geometry Monochrome
Apr 1, 2026

First Look – Cleguer Horology Launches with the Inspiration One Souscription and a new “Innate” Escapement Geometry

Discovering new independent watchmaking talents is a rare pleasure – especially when it’s as compelling as the debut of Mathieu Cleguer’s brand. With his first creation, this watchmaking engineer introduces a singular vision where aesthetic purity meets technicality. At first glance, the Inspiration One captivates with its clean, balanced design elevated by superb finishing and […]

First Look – The New Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Enamel Sky Gold and Pulse GMT Silver Guilloche Monochrome
Chronoswiss Apr 1, 2026

First Look – The New Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Enamel Sky Gold and Pulse GMT Silver Guilloche

Introduced last year, the Pulse line is a departure from the classical regulator watches for which Chronoswiss became known in the 1980s. The collection keeps the key design elements such as the oversized onion crown, the coin-edge bezel, and the layered dial construction, but offers a contemporary case and an integrated bracelet. Just ahead of Watches […]

First Look – The New Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Bulgari  in 2000 Genta himself Mar 31, 2026

First Look – The New Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar

Gerald Charles is a name that traces back to the legendary Gérald Genta, widely regarded as one of the most influential modern watch designers. While his eponymous brand, Gerald Genta, was sold to Bulgari in 2000, Genta himself soon embarked on a new chapter, founding Gérald Charles as a more personal expression of his design philosophy. In 2011, […]

Baltic Introduces the Heures du Monde Worldtimer, with Three Stone Dial Options Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Mar 31, 2026

Baltic Introduces the Heures du Monde Worldtimer, with Three Stone Dial Options

When we last checked in on Baltic, they were retiring one of their most popular lines, at least for the time being, with a diamond set version of their MR dress watch. It felt like an appropriate send off for the MR, which I think will be remembered as the release that put the watch world on notice that Baltic was capable of executing in categories other than purely sporty vintage inspired designs. The fact that the last MR prominently features Moissanite stones really reflects the path Baltic finds themselves on now, stretching well beyond what was frankly a somewhat generic playbook in the early days.  Their latest collection, the Heures du Monde, is a worldtimer that further reinforces that idea. This is a tribute, of sorts, to the work of Louis Cottier, the Swiss watchmaker who effectively invented the modern worldtimer, creating movements for Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and others. His worldtimers are of course highly sought after by high end vintage collectors not just for their aesthetic beauty, but their historical significance. The principle behind Cottier’s movements, that the wearer should see the time in every timezone at once, at a glance, via rotating time zone and 24 hour scales, has become the predominant method for executing worldtime watches and is considered the standard in the watch industry.  For the Heures du Monde, Baltic has modified a Soprod C125 caliber by removing the date and replacing the GMT hand usually found with that movement w...

Baltic’s Affordable Heures du Monde Worldtimer SJX Watches
Baltic s Affordable Heures du Mar 31, 2026

Baltic’s Affordable Heures du Monde Worldtimer

The value-forward, design-savvy French micro-brand Baltic debuts its first worldtimer, the Heures du Monde with a trio of stone dials – sodalite, tiger’s eye and labradorite, each limited to 200 pieces as a lead up to a future regular production version. It’s a fully functional and sharp-looking vintage-styled worldtimer, with a modern set of features that includes a brushed ceramic bezel, plenty of lume, and a surprising 100m depth rating, for a reasonable price. Initial thoughts Stone dials and worldtimers are each in vogue, and it is only natural to combine the two – especially as worldtimers as a genre are predisposed to vibrant dials, such as enameling, engine turning, or miniature painting. It doesn’t hurt that the Heueres du Monde is a competent watch and fair value proposition over all. Baltic pitches the model as an homage to the work of Louis Cottier, who invented the format. It specifically takes after his earliest worldtimers, which comprised a simple 24-hour disk geared to the hands, and a rotating bezel with the names of cites arrayed around its perimeter. The sodalite, tiger’s Eye and labradorite dials are tasteful, fit the overall watch, and will no doubt age better than many other stone dial offerings from micro-brands today. That said, it was the probably the right decision on Baltic’s part to make these colourways limited, as it doesn’t fit with what I suspect is a more vintage, rather than neo-vintage, vision for the model. Given the br...