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Opinion: What “Fair Pricing” Actually Means at Watches & Wonders

Few watch industry traditions are more sacred than the yearly dance during Watches & Wonders between shiny new novelties in Switzerland and comments from observers back home about pricing being out of control. Every year, without fail, new watches are announced in the dead of night on the east coast, and before anyone in the United States could conceivably have access to the new pieces, the commentary comes through loud and clear: they want how much for that?  Look, I get it, I really do. As a collector, I’m priced out of a lot of watches that I wouldn’t have been even a year or two ago. Things are getting crazy, and fast. But you’d think based solely on the online discourse that there isn’t a single watch priced fairly anymore. I really don’t think that’s the case.  When I say “priced fairly” I want to be clear that I don’t mean any given watch is necessarily affordable to me, or anyone else. But that, in the scheme of things, and thinking about what you’re actually getting for your money at this current moment in time, certain watches are retailing right about where they should be, or at least at a level that aligns with what the watch is offering. And “fair” can mean a bunch of different things when we’re talking about retail pricing. Things like finishing, the positioning of a brand compared to their competition (and how watches are positioned within a brand’s collection), as well as production scale and the health of the brand itself all ...

Frederique Constant and Pro Padel League Invite You to Party at Park Padel on Day One of Windup SF

What better way to celebrate the first day of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco than playing padel on the scenic shoreline of the bay! Join Worn & Wound and our friends from Frederique Constant in collaboration with Pro Padel League on Friday, May 1, 2026, from 6:30–8:30 PM for an evening of food, fun, physical activity.   Whether you’re a padel pro or it’s your first time with a pala in-hand, all are welcome to come celebrate this incredible new partnership of heritage watches and cutting edge athletes. Experts can walk you through the basics of the game, or challenge you in the next set.   There’ll be bites, beverages, and exclusive swag to commemorate the collaboration and its commitment to redefine tradition with new energy and contemporary culture. Members of the Frederique Constant, Pro Padel League, and Worn & Wound teams will be in attendance to talk shop and hit the courts. Hope to see you there in your best athleisure! Bring your sneakers!   Friday, May 1, 2026 6:30-8:30PM Park Padel  Embarcadero Plaza, San Francisco An RSVP is required to attend. Please RSVP in the form below to register once for each person in your party.  The post Frederique Constant and Pro Padel League Invite You to Party at Park Padel on Day One of Windup SF appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hublot at Watches & Wonders 2026: Big Bang Reloaded with Julien Tornare

Roger Dubuis at Watches and Wonders 2026: Roger Dubuis Returns to the Biretrograde

Cartier at Watches and Wonders 2026: The Return of the Roadster and the Tortue Triumphant

Recap: An Analog Evening with Accutron, Esterbrook, and The Brooklyn Scribe at the Windup Watch Shop Showroom

Last Thursday evening, the Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom played host to a packed house for a special event celebrating the intersection of watchmaking and writing instruments, with Accutron and Esterbrook taking center stage. Envisioned as an intimate opportunity to go hands-on with Accutron’s latest Spaceview 314 collection, the event quickly evolved into a lively, tactile experience that blended horology, craftsmanship, and a shared appreciation for design heritage. Guests filtered in throughout the evening, filling the space with energy as conversations sparked over Accutron’s open-work dials, Tuning Fork technology, and the parallels between both timekeeping and writing instruments. Accutron’s team was on hand to walk attendees through the technical and aesthetic nuances of the Spaceview 314, offering a closer look at the brand’s continued evolution of its Tuning Fork movement technology. American writing instrument maker, Esterbrook, unveiled a new fountain pen inspired by Accutron’s signature Spaceview design language, creating a compelling collab between the two brands-one rooted in time, the other in communication, but both strong examples of personal expression. But what truly elevated the evening was the addition of live, custom calligraphy by The Brooklyn Scribe. Throughout the night, guests were invited to commission personalized pieces, turning names, phrases, and moments into beautifully rendered works of art. The presence of hand letter...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Manuel Emch, The Head Of Louis Erard And 'The Numbers Guy' At Kollokium, On How To Build A Successful Swiss Watch Brand

Plus Malaika Crawford talks Louis Vuitton's guilloché skills and how Rolex is keeping the mystery with its Hollywood testimonees.

If You Missed Out on One of the Coolest Releases at British Watchmakers’ Day, Apiar Has You Covered with the Gen1.1 Night Tube

Whenever I go to a watch event, whether that’s a local meetup, Watches & Wonders, or one of our own Windup fairs, my brain does that thing where upon leaving, I’m trying to figure out the MVP from that event. Not that the watches are in competition with one another – it’s just how I organize my thoughts, figuring out what I liked the most. Coming out of British Watchmakers’ Day last month, the clear MVP for me was the extremely limited Apiar Gen1.1 Underground. I reviewed an early version of this watch last year and was really impressed, and this limited edition (just three pieces!) had a London Underground inspired dial made by The Dial Artist himself that really won me over. I’m a bit of a public transportation nerd so this one called out to me in a strong way, and I admit that I left London last month with a twinge of regret that I didn’t pull the trigger on this watch when I had the chance. Luckily for at least some of us (but not me, I’m tapped out, really) Apiar has followed up the Gen1.1 Underground with a predictable but very welcome sequel, the Gen1.1 Night Tube. As you can probably gather from the name of the watch and the photos, this is effectively a blacked out version of the Underground, because people, of course, ride the subway at all hours of the night in London. This marks the first time Apiar has used a DLC coating on one of their watch cases. Aesthetically, it really shifts the focus to the dial, which I think takes on a brighter quality...

Quick look at a legend: Breguet Tradition Collection

Explore the Breguet Tradition Collection in a detailed press release highlighting its historical roots, architectural movement design, signature shock absorber, and insights from Breguet leadership.

Craft at Scale: Audemars Piguet’s Industrial Strategy

Audemars Piguet (AP) is a storied name in haute horlogerie, and has long been the public face of the Vallée de Joux, the cradle of high complications in Switzerland. It’s also the only brand in the so-called ‘holy trinity’ to employ a Chief Industrial Officer (CIO). We sat down with Lucas Raggi to understand his role in shaping AP’s industrial strategy. The historical home of Audemars Piguet. Image – Audemars Piguet The context Having closed the chapter on the brand’s first 150 years, AP is flying high. According to Vontobel estimates, the brand generated more than CHF2.4 billion in 2025, making it the third-largest brand by revenue after mass market masters Rolex and Cartier. The brand is estimated to have produced more than 50,000 watches in 2025, up from 30,000 just a few years ago. The ribbon-cutting ceremony at the opening of AP’s new Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – Audemars Piguet The new Arc Manufacture, which just came online, might raise the ceiling further. In a 2022 interview then-chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias suggested AP would be capable of making up to 65,000 watches annually by 2027. These numbers represent extraordinary growth for a century-old family owned brand that makes complicated watches. So how does a brand like AP (nearly) double its output in less than a generation without sacrificing small-scale craftsmanship? In short, thoughtful industrialisation. The recently opened Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – A...

The Petrolhead Corner – A New Chapter In Formula 1 Is Here, As We Look Ahead At The 2026 Season

In just a week’s time, the madness that is the 2026 Formula 1 season will kick off in Melbourne with the Australian Grand Prix serving as the opening event of 24 rounds of racing. And this year it’s really anyone’s guess as to what’s going to happen over the 24-race-long season. We have very few […]

Happenings: Celebrate 50 Years Of Eco-Drive At Citizen’s New York City Flagship Store

Join Hodinkee and Citizen for an enlightening conversation and exclusive look-ahead.

The Petrolhead Corner – Old Meets New, With The 2019 Jaguar D-Type Long Nose Continuation For Sale At Hilton and Moss

You’re probably thinking, “Wait, what? Wasn’t the D-Type built in the 1950s?” and you’d be absolutely right. But what we have here is a continuation car, built by Jaguar themselves based on the original plans, drawings and designs of the D-Type. So it’s old, but it’s also new. Or relatively new, that is, as Jaguar […]

The Italian-American Civil Rights League: A Look Back at an Italian Legacy Through the Lens of a Wristwatch

The vintage watch market is constantly littered with timepieces featuring organizational logos, slogans, and company mascots on their dials. Wristwatch anniversary gifts and promotional products were incredibly common throughout the 20th and early 21st centuries because of their ability to advertise on someone’s wrist, similar to cars with advertising wraps for insurance and real estate companies nowadays. Many of these watches have degraded in value over time as a result of their engraved case backs and personalizations that some collectors find unappealing. However, there are some timepieces of this genre that hold their value to this day, my favorite example being the iconic Domino’s Pizza Rolex Air King that always seems to worm its way onto my Instagram feed. The watch at the heart of this article would easily be passed by many collectors on their escapades through online auction websites. I’ll admit it: I glanced right over the listing several times when it was first posted, foolishly thinking it was another inexpensive piece of advertising from the 1970s. It wasn’t until I put two-and-two together, realizing that the Italian-American Civil Rights League was an organization I had previously researched and had established an interest in, that I went back and instantly added the watch to my cart. For those of you unfamiliar with this organization and its history, allow me to introduce you to them and illustrate just how rare this watch’s existence is today. A...

Oris and Worn & Wound Celebrate the Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” at a Packed Brooklyn Showroom Event

Despite frigid temperatures outside, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn was buzzing with energy as Oris and Worn & Wound hosted an evening dedicated to one of the brand’s most beloved new releases: the Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye.” Fans, enthusiasts, and first-time Oris buyers alike packed the space, turning a cold winter night into a warm celebration of independent watchmaking.   Representing Oris for the evening were VJ Geronimo, CEO – The Americas; Josh Shanks, Director of Marketing and Communications – North America; and Megan Hines, Marketing Coordinator. Their presence gave attendees direct access to the people behind the brand, creating an atmosphere that felt both intimate and entertaining.  Guests were treated to extensive hands-on time with the full Oris collection, with special attention naturally focused on the the Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye.” The watch drew a steady crowd throughout the night, with attendees eager to experience its striking dial and classic proportions in person. Professional wrist shots were available to everyone, and a steady rotation of guests took advantage of the opportunity to capture studio-quality photos with their favorite pieces. In keeping in theme with the hero watch of the evening, guests were also invited to try their luck and making a Bullseye-of the dart variety. The Worn & Wound crew took special interest in this activity in particular. The evening also had its share of Oris merch and mater...

A Look at the Timex Q Nebula, the Forgotten Pulp Fiction Watch

Turning on Quentin Tarantino’s 1994 masterpiece Pulp Fiction for the first time is a moment I’m sure many of us would like to relive. Among the many unexpected moments the film has to offer is a four-minute-long scene where Christopher Walken details the history of a Lancet trench watch and its unfortunate journeys through the human anatomy. The familial heirloom timepiece that Captain Koons passes down to his son, Butch, is often considered by watch buffs and film aficionados to be the true “Pulp Fiction watch” because of its inclusion in the iconic scene. I personally feel there’s another timepiece featured in the movie that should be in the running for that title as well (and no, I’m not talking about Harvey Keitel’s Gucci 3300M). The Timex Q Red Nebula never gets any clear-cut screen time, but for those keen-eyed viewers, it can be spotted on John Travolta’s wrist numerous times throughout the film. Several stories and blogs have been written about the history of the Lancet featured in the movie, but very little exists about this Timex Q in the watch space. Let’s change that, shall we? History of the Red Nebula  This model was advertised as the ref. 989502 in Timex catalogues, but quickly gained the far catchier Red Nebula moniker because of its dial from consumers upon release. When it initially launched in 1977, it featured a faceted mineral crystal, similar to those seen on Seiko pieces from that era. The 1978 release of this same model features a...

The Petrolhead Corner – Dacia Takes Its First Ever Win At The 2026 Running of the Dakar

The Dakar is the true stuff of legends. And it’s not just the historic editions that still leave many of us in awe, the yearly adventure is still the playing field for the creme de la creme in rallying. Each competitor, whether on two wheels or in a car or truck, has to battle the […]

A Quick Look at the TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer

LVMH Watch Week has become the first of the blast waves of new releases we can expect every year. Siloed to one group, it leans toward the high end. Actually, very high end, with the most eye-catching releases relegated to Daniel Roth, Gerald Genta, and the eponymous Louis Vuitton, the latter of which actually had the most intriguing releases of them all. “Über collector” brands the lot; there’s plenty to appreciate, especially as they lean into haute-indie aesthetics. Yet, the lack of accessibility for us mere mortals takes a bit of the fun out of it. LVMH is not exactly known as an “approachable” luxury mega-conglomerate, but at least with Zenith and TAG Heuer in its portfolio, it has some brands that lean toward enthusiasts. After spending an afternoon with Hublot, Zenith, and TAG Heuer, getting to see a sample of novelties (it was pretty clear that all are holding back for Watches & Wonders), the watch that left the strongest impression a day later was TAG’s Carrera Seafarer. A follow-up to their 2024 Hodinkee collaboration, the major differences are the new color, which is exquisite, the “beads of rice” bracelet, and widespread availability. Having never encountered the Hodinkee collab in the metal, getting to try the Seafarer on for the first time left an impression. IMAGE COURTESY OF ANALOG/SHIFT For those unfamiliar with the Seafarer’s heritage, here’s a tl;dr: they were a line of chronographs that included a unique additional complication, a t...

Editorial: Tudor at 100

Tudor turns 100 this year. The same age as Dick Van Dyke and American Airlines. Anniversaries like this are a big deal in the watch industry – we’ve just been through a year where both Vacheron Constantin and Breguet celebrated major milestones, each with a series of special releases. That’s the playbook for a watch brand: milk the year for as long as possible with new releases that feel special. It’s a sensible strategy given that it inherently leans into heritage and prestige, both ideas that have been proven to sell watches successfully for years. This isn’t meant to be a prediction of what might be in store for Tudor this year – plenty of outlets and watch media figures have already weighed in on that topic. We don’t have any inside information, of course, so any guesses as to what Tudor might do would be just that. My hunch, though, is that we won’t see obviously anniversary inflected pieces dropped throughout the year in the same way we saw from the likes of Vacheron and Breguet in 2025. It doesn’t feel like that’s part of the Rolex DNA that Tudor shares. I expect we’ll see some very subtle 100 year mentions in Tudor marketing, a special watch or two that is not explicitly tied to the anniversary but as recognized as honoring it just the same, and perhaps something a little more celebratory around Watches & Wonders or an athletic event that Tudor is involved in (there will of course be many of those throughout the year). What I’m much more int...

Suzanne Dirks To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York

Artist and educator Suzanne Dirks asks a deceptively simple question: Do public clocks still organize how we move through New York City, or have they begun to fade into the background?

Watches, Wine, And Letting Taste Lead: Sommelier Jhonel Faelnar With TanTan Wang At UBS House Of Craft

From Burgundy to Grand Seiko: The Atomix beverage director reflects on why great objects reward patience.

Kari Voutilainen Steps Back at Urban Jürgensen

After four years leading the relaunch of Urban Jürgensen (UJ) alongside co-chief executive Alex Rosenfield, Kari Voutilainen is returning to the bench and dedicate his time to watchmaking and development, while Mr Rosenfeld will assume the role of sole chief executive. Despite this change, the relationship between Mr Voutilainen and UJ remains strong; he will still be involved, albeit in a more hands-off capacity as a shareholder, board member, and senior strategic advisor. From this vantage point, Mr Voutilainen, who has a long history with UJ, should retain substantial influence over the brand’s direction. Initial thoughts The news of Kari Voutilainen stepping back from day-to-day executive responsibilities at UJ seems natural, and was probably inevitable. Having gotten the relaunched brand into orbit, Mr Voutilainen is putting things in the hands of the team at UJ to carry on. Judging by the steady pace of deliveries so far this year, there’s plenty of reason to be optimistic about their capabilities. One reason this change seems natural is that it follows a similar move at Voutilainen earlier this month. Mr Voutilainen has been planning for the future and putting management teams in place to build a long-term business and free up more of his own capacity for working on new watches and movements. His daughter, Venla, is also stepping down from her role as chief operating officer at UJ in order to assist with the family business. Kari Voutilainen alongside recently ...

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph, And A Look Back At The Last Ten Years Of High-End Watch Collecting

This watch is lush. And important. Does the arc of the 5370 stand as the archetype of what has happened to high-end watchmaking in the last decade?

In-Depth: A Look Back At 20 Years Of The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain

Examining the broad scope of two decades' worth of design and editions for FPJ's most classic watch.

Exhibition Dedicated to Miniaturisation at AP House Singapore

AP House Singapore is staging its first exhibition, making full use of the expansive space inside Singapore’s iconic colonial-era Raffles Hotel. 150 Years of Refined Elegance is a showcase of miniaturisation, covering Audemars Piguet’s smallest and thinnest movements, including an 18 mm-wide minute repeating calibre from the late 19th century. Taking place in the basement of the “house”, the exhibition starts with watches from the 1920s and ends in the current day that includes the Royal Oak Mini and the recently launched 38 mm perpetual calendar models. The Royal Oak Mini in “Frosted” gold Although not described as such, the exhibition naturally focuses a great deal on ladies’ watches, one of the recent themes of AP’s marketing. Unsurprisingly, one of the prominent figures in the exhibition is Jacqueline Dimier, chief designer at AP from 1975 to 1999 who conceived of the 29 mm Royal Oak for ladies shortly after the launch of the original “Jumbo” ref. 5402ST in 1972. Exhibition details The exhibition is open daily from 11 am to 8 pm and takes place at AP House Singapore located in the Raffles Hotel Singapore. Entry is free but registration is required; visits can be scheduled at Audemarspiguet.com.

Photo Report: The Rare Watches, Unique Rolexes, and Unexpected Events at Dubai Watch Week 2025, Part 1 (200+ Pics)

The biggest Dubai Watch Week yet, by a large margin, was full of interesting panels, new releases, and collectors wearing some exceptional watches. And yes, you read that right, that included unique Rolexes.

Business News: Top Swiss Watch CEOs Talk Leadership And Strategy Amid Industry Challenges At Dubai Watch Week

The first-ever Dubai Watch Week CEO Roundtable: Horology Edition, features CEOs from Audemars Piguet, Breitling, Chopard, and Hublot.

Gone Fishin’ with the Timex Hooks: A Look Back at What 1990s Horological Tech Had to Offer

If you’ve sensed a theme with my work throughout the last year or so here on Worn & Wound, you’re not alone. The 1980s and 90s Timex catalog has fully gotten a hold of my attention for the last year or so, with pieces from that era finding their way into my watch boxes and causing a seismic shift in my collecting habits. Let’s get one thing straight right off the bat: I’ll never stray away from my mechanical pieces and Seiko divers. However, the fun and quirky nature of Timex during the latter half of the 20th century is an era I will now hold forever near and dear to my heart. I added this Timex Hooks model to my collection only a few months ago after wanting one for several years. Though I’m not an incredibly passionate fisherman, there was always something about the watch’s design that piqued my interest. Go grab your fishing rod, get some nightcrawlers from the local gas station, and head out to your nearest bubbling brook, as we take a look into what makes the Timex Hooks such an underrated watch in the brand’s catalog. History and Design According to advertisements and catalogs, the Timex Hooks model was released in 1990 alongside other outdoor watches designed at assisting in specialized outdoor activities like skiing, surfing, cross-training, mountain climbing, and more. Possessing many impressive and high-tech features for that era that we’ll dig into shortly, the Hooks retailed for $65 (the equivalent of roughly $161 in 2025). Simultaneously, Time...

Photo Report: Porsches And Watches In Eye-Popping Colors At Rare Shades 6

The show brought people, P-Cars, and plenty of watches to Toronto.

Highlights: Complications on Bracelets at Christie’s Hong Kong

The uniform of high complications almost invariably includes a leather strap; a metal bracelet remains an uncommon pairing with, say, a grande sonnerie. Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, however, brings an unexpected abundance of complicated watches on bracelets for collectors who prefer metal, including notable examples from Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne. This season’s sale is anchored by two major private collections, most prominently the second part of The Chronicle Collection, the first half of which was dispersed earlier in the spring. The consignor began collecting in the 1990s, a fact reflected in the depth of neo-vintage highlights throughout the catalogue. Lot 2442 - Patek Philippe ref. 3448⁄8 with Possibly Unique Ruby Dial The Patek Philippe ref. 3448 was the first self-winding perpetual calendar produced in series. According to movement numbers, it is likely 586 were made in total - this lug-less example was one of the first made. Beyond its historical interest, the ref. 3448 is underpinned by one of – if not the – most beautiful automatic movements ever made: the cal. 27-460 Q. Looks aside, it was one of the most technically competent automatics of its era, with an overcoil hairspring, free-sprung balance, and bi-directional winding using a cam and pawl system. Atop this worthy base calibre, the ref. 3448 adds the iconic windows perpetual calendar by none other than Victorin Piguet. The ‘/8’ in ref. 3448/8 suffix denotes the style ...