Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Monarch Review: An Unexpected Take On Sports-Luxury
Tudor revives its Monarch just in time for its 100th birthday, complete with a California dial and METAS-Certified Manufacture caliber.
Results for Caliber H-10
1,317 articles · 18 videos found · page 23 of 45
Teddy Baldassarre
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Geneva Auction Preview
The spring auction season gets underway in Geneva in just a few days. On episode 39 of the SJX Podcast, we look at some of the top lots that caught our attention at Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum, including a cloisonné enamel Patek Philippe worldtime ref. 2523, an Akrivia AK-06, and several notable pocket watches from names like Frodsham, Kullberg, Ditisheim, Patek Philippe, and A. Lange & Söhne. Auction dates (in order): Phillips: May 9 & 10 Antiquorum: May 9 & 10 Sotheby’s: May 10 Christie’s: May 11 & 12 Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
SJX Watches
De Bethune After Dark: the DB27 “Night Hawk”
Massachusetts-based retailer EsperLuxe represents many leading names in independent watchmaking, and has just collaborated with De Bethune to create the DB27 Night Hawk. Based on the Titan Hawk V2, the Night Hawk is a 10-piece limited edition with matte-finished blued titanium lugs and a secret meaning expressed in its star-studded titanium dial. Initial thoughts De Bethune is quite unlike other contemporary independent watchmakers. Majority owned by The 1916 Company since 2021, De Bethune nonetheless appears to operate much as it did prior to the acquisition, serving as a vehicle for co-founder Denis Flageollet’s prodigious creative output. The Night Hawk exemplifies De Bethune’s unique perspective, which fuses in-house technical watchmaking with a science fiction-inspired aesthetic. It’s a difficult balancing act, but the brand has amassed a devoted following by staying outside industry norms for design and decoration. A creature of the night The Night Hawk is a variant of the DB27 Titan Hawk V2, which debuted in 2018 as the brand’s ‘entry level’ model. Naturally, that term is somewhat out of place in the world of low-volume watchmaking, but it nonetheless brings many of the brand’s signatures within reach of a wider segment of collectors. One of those signatures is heat-blued (or purpled) case elements, including the Night Hawk’s blued titanium lugs, which are part of a hinged exterior case frame that articulates from a spring-loaded hinge on each side o...
Monochrome
Recap – The Integrated Bracelet Watch Trend Keeps Going Strong, With Tons of New Models Presented at Watches & Wonders 2026
A category defined during the 1970s by a handful of models that all became proper icons of the industry – AP Royal Oak, PP Nautilus, VC 222, IWC Ingenieur, GP Laureato, to name a few – the luxury sports watch or integrated bracelet trend made a strong comeback about 10 years ago. Not only did […]
WatchAdvice
Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review
As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre The calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This article was originally published as Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet? There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once f...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection, Reference 5810G and 5610G
Here's the thing. The 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection was going to sell no matter what caliber was used, what case material was chosen, or what format was given. This is just a reality of the strength of Patek Philippe in the world today, and how in-demand integrated bracelet watches are. And to be clear, the Nautilus, along with the Royal Oak, set the tone long ago and remains at the pinnacle of the category. Actually, one would say the Nautilus remains at the pinnacle of *watches* in general when it comes to simple demand. It's the one that the most powerful people I know lust after the most – and I'm not saying that's good or bad, but it really just is. And here's the thing: the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus was a bit of a let-down for me. Because the Nautilus really is *the watch* for so many of us, and indeed, I am a true fan and always have been, and indeed, always will be, no matter how many dinguses I see wearing them today. 3700G Circa 1980, 5711R Circa 2015, 5811G Circa 2024 – Yes, I like the Nautilus a lot. As many of you know, the very first Patek Philippe I ever purchased was a 3940G. The very second? A Nautilus reference 3700A (I paid $18,000 for it, in a group buy with Paul Boutros, who bought a 222 for even less 😵💫). Some years later, I bought a very rare 3700G (I sold it to a close friend and mentor when he sold his company because it was something he'd always dreamed of owning). In 2015, when Nautiluses were still sitting in cases,...
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Frederique Constant Offers a Smart Update to their Classic Worldtimer Manufacture
Frederique Constant has built themselves a nice little niche delivering complicated watches at relatively affordable and impressive price points. While their perpetual calendar is probably the most impressive in terms of straight up value (somehow it still comes in under $10,000, even after years of rising prices throughout the sector) it’s the Worldtimer Manufacture that is likely their true signature. It’s a genuinely accessible complication that, at the time it was introduced, was novel in a watch well under the five figure mark. Over the years there have been a number of variants introduced, but little has changed as far as the actual execution of the watch. That changes with the introduction of a trio of new worldtimers, all sporting the new manufacture movement, designated FC-719. The new caliber allows two nagging issues to be addressed: case size and dial clutter. If you’re familiar with Frederique Constant’s Worldtimer Manufacture, you’ve likely already noticed that the large subdial at 6:00 displaying the date has been completely removed. A no-date worldtimer is a big change, but there’s no denying that the dial is significantly cleaner without the date. It allows the dial motif, a representation of a globe, common enough on these watches, to fully stand on its own. Dial options for this refreshed worldtimer include a limited diamond set version, a version on a strap with iridescent blue ocean waters, and a bracelet version with a more matte blue ...
Hodinkee
Happenings: Claude Greisler To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
Resonance is one of the most fascinating physical phenomena explored in watchmaking, where two oscillators influence each other and eventually synchronize. Since Christiaan Huygens' 17th‑century observations with pendulum clocks, watchmakers have sought to harness it in wristwatches. At the May 2026 lecture of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), Armin Strom Co-Founder and Master Watchmaker Claude Greisler will share how the brand successfully achieved resonance in 2016 with the caliber ARF15. Central to this innovation is the patented resonance clutch, which links the two hairsprings, allowing them to synchronize quickly and continuously average out rate deviations. Join Greisler as he explores the journey from theory to mechanism and the creation of a modern resonance system. About Claude Greisler "A passion for 'transparent mechanics', both from an aesthetic perspective and to showcase how our watches actually work, has always guided my design sensibility. From a watchmaking perspective, I honor the many generations of Swiss-German watchmakers in my family with an uncompromising commitment to perfection in both movement quality and finishing." - Claude Greisler Born into a watchmaker family, Claude Greisler began his formal watchmaking education at a watchmaker school in Solothurn, Switzerland, followed by advanced programs at the Centre Interrégional de Formation des Montagnes (CIFOM) in Le Locle. He graduated in watch restoration and watch development, com...
Deployant
Live from WWG26: the new release from Ferdinand Berthoud
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Ferdinand Berthoud flipped their movement released 10 years ago in the FB 1. The new watch is Chapter 1 Chronomètre FB 2TV is like an inverted version of the FB 1. But of course, as this is a Ferdinand Berthoud, the entire movement is reworked to flip over, and the entire movement is now visible [...] The post Live from WWG26: the new release from Ferdinand Berthoud appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Fratello
Introducing: The Updated Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Collection
Alpina revisits one of its most recognizable collections with a fresh update for 2026. The Startimer enters a new era with refined proportions and enhanced legibility. Most notably, Alpina reduces the overall case size by 10 percent. The stainless steel case now measures 40mm in diameter and just 10.14mm thick. As a result, the watch […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Collection to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Oris’ 24-Year-Old Product Design Engineer Just Reworked a Classic – This is the Sleek New Artelier Complication
Oris first introduced its Artelier Complication in 1991 alongside the Caliber 581, which notably featured a moonphase module developed in-house by the brand. The release marked another significant moment for the maison in its commitment to manufacture movements following the quartz crisis. The model’s presence ultimately faded but received new life in 2017 with an updated design that featured a more modern, cleaner style with slimmer, tapered lugs, and a redesigned bezel. At Watches & Wonders, we get the next evolution of the Artelier Complication. The newest incarnation gives us another redesign from the 2017 edition while keeping the focus on highlighting the romantic moonphase. This updated take on the Artelier Complication comes from 24-year-old Lena Huwiler, Oris’s new Product Design Engineer. Huwiler has been able to achieve the perfect balance between honoring the model’s place in the history of the brand and propelling it forward with a design that will resonate with her generation. An old soul at heart, Huwiler admits she does not just find inspiration online but still appreciates architecture, crafts, and interior design. She clearly brings the duality of these sensibilities into her design for the new Artelier Complication. Here, Huwiler has given an Oris classic a modern, urban profile and reworked the moonphase display designed by and for the next generation of watch collectors. The major update here is in the complication and how it is presented thank...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, Now In Platinum
A 10-piece follow-up of the record-shattering ultra-thin tourbillon introduced last year.
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: TAG Heuer Reinvents (a part of) the Chronograph with the Monaco Evergraph
When I think of Heuer, or TAG, or TAG Heuer, for that matter, I think of chronographs. You probably do too. Carreras, Monacos, Autavias, Monzas, Veronas, Montreals, etc… All iconic models, their pursuit of the stop-watch-in-a-wrist-watch goes far beyond just that of aesthetics. Famously, in 1969, they were among the first three brands to introduce an automatic chronograph with the Caliber 11. Then, in the 2010s, they pushed chronograph innovation to its limits with high-concept, high-frequency calibers like the Mikrograph, Mikrotimer, and Mikrogirder. In the last few years, TAG has focused more on the commercial side, honing in on a contemporary design language with the glass box Carreras, as well as a workhorse caliber of their own, the 80-hour, column-wheel, automatic TH20. 2026, however, marks a return to more innovative, if high-end times. Earlier this year, they introduced the six-figure Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph, a 36,000bph rattrapante made in collaboration with Vaucher, under the category of “avant-garde horlogerie.” A curious development that was perhaps undermined by having such a daunting price, it did serve as an amuse-bouche to their big Watches & Wonders novelty: the Monaco Evergraph, which includes at least one first in watchmaking. There is a lot to unpack with the Evergraph, but the movement is a good place to start. Inside is a new caliber called the TH80-00. An integrated chronometer-certified automatic chronograph with 47-jewels, it featur...
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGY043 “Iwao Blue”
At Watches & Wonders 2026, Grand Seiko’s newest addition to the Elegance Collection brings together the things it does best. Namely, intricately textured dials with a nod to Japanese artistry, and its flagship Caliber 9R Spring Drive. Engraved to resemble a weathered rock face, the SBGY043’s striking dial suggests the appearance of a mountain at dusk: Grand Seiko calls this pattern iwao, which translates to rock or crag. Depending on the angle it’s viewed from behind its domed sapphire crystal, different facets take on intermingling light and dark tones of blue, purple, and black. Its color is inspired by the tradition of katsuiro dyeing, a centuries-old technique and reportedly a favorite among the samurai class, which produces a deep indigo hue. Set against bright silver markers and hands - no blued seconds hand here, which is almost its own Grand Seiko tradition - it makes for an especially understated contrast. This Iwao Blue version runs on the Caliber 9R31, a manual-wind Spring Drive movement with a 72-hour power reserve and visible through a clear caseback. The case is among the slimmest in the Elegance Collection, with standard zaratsu polishing and soft, rounded lugs. A nine-row stainless steel bracelet is the only option, which reflects the craggy-faced dial’s aura of ruggedness. Grand Seiko enthusiasts, of which there are many, might remember this dial from 2021 - albeit in a sharp-angled Heritage case and with a Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive mov...
Hodinkee
Introducing: A. Lange & Söhne Downsizes The Saxonia Annual Calendar To 36mm
The previously discontinued model is now back in a smaller size, with a few mechanical improvements thanks to a new caliber.
Fratello
Introducing: Three New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Complications
Just as Stevie Wonder is the musician’s musician, Jaeger-LeCoultre is the watchmaker’s watchmaker. But what is meant by this? Well, for starters, Jaeger-LeCoultre is a prolific movement manufacturer that supplies other high-end brands. Famously, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra-thin caliber 920 powered the big three ’70s sports watches - Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, AP’s Royal Oak, and Vacheron Constantin’s […] Visit Introducing: Three New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Complications to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Patek Philippe Launches The First Cubitus Perpetual Calendar
An adaptation of the perpetual calendar Caliber 240 brings the first shaped caliber to the Cubitus line.
Fratello
Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Nautilus References Celebrating The Watch’s 50th Anniversary
The Patek Philippe Nautilus returns in three new references that lean into the model’s archetypal design. They feature thin cases, clean dials, and a familiar architecture to celebrate 50 years of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. All three use the ultra-thin caliber 240, now with a commemorative mini-rotor engraving that pays homage to the model’s 1976 […] Visit Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Nautilus References Celebrating The Watch’s 50th Anniversary to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Les Opus is a Trio of Greatest Hits
Cartier’s crowd favourite Privé line is now 10 years old and the jeweller is returning to its greatest hits for the occasion with two offerings, the first being the flagship Cartier Privé Les Opus. “Opus” is a trio of watches, all in platinum, each being of the most desirable models in the Privé collection – Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and Crash Squelette. Both the Tank Normale and Tortue Monopoussoir are variants of earlier models, retaining the same case and movement as before, but now with silvered dials featuring red markings. The Crash skeleton, on the other hand, is a new model powered by a new calibre, the 1967 MC, a hand-wind movement with hand hammered bridges. The Crash skeleton is limited to 150 pieces, while the other two models are regular production The second anniversary trio is Cartier Privé La Collection, yet another trio of greatest hits, but in yellow gold and not limited edition, which we’ll detail in another story. Cartier Privé La Collection made up of the Tank Cintree, Tank Normale, and Cloche Initial thoughts It is now a given that Cartier will mine its rich archive for new launches and Les Opus is exactly that. Given the strength of Cartier’s iconic designs, all three watches in the collection are appealing, with the Crash being a little more novel than its siblings in the line-up thanks to its skeleton movement. None of the three watches win any awards for imagination or innovation, but that is arguably besides...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V Is The Thinnest Overseas Ever Made
Coming in at 7.35mm thick with a brand new caliber, this limited edition is something special.
Fratello
Grand Seiko Unveils The New Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Divers
During Watches and Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko unveiled two Spring Drive models powered by a new Ultra Fine Accuracy (U.F.A.) caliber. This year, the Japanese watchmaker follows up on last year’s novelties with two Ushio 300 divers housing a new U.F.A. movement. On top of that, the brand finally granted enthusiasts’ wishes for a smaller […] Visit Grand Seiko Unveils The New Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Divers to read the full article.
Fratello
Zenith Turns The G.F.J. Into A Collection With Two Stunning Stone-Dial Limited Editions
Last year was a big one for Zenith, celebrating the manufacture’s 160th anniversary. For the occasion, the brand introduced the impressive Zenith G.F.J. The release brought back the legendary caliber 135 and marked the start of a new series of dress watches. But after that release, it remained quiet until today. Today, the inaugural G.F.J. […] Visit Zenith Turns The G.F.J. Into A Collection With Two Stunning Stone-Dial Limited Editions to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin In A 39.5mm Platinum Case
It took a while, but the 2016 Overseas Ultra-Thin finally has a successor. Ten years after the launch of the 40 × 7.5mm white gold reference 2000V/120G-B122 with caliber 1120, a 39.5 × 7.35mm platinum timepiece debuts. Introducing the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin reference 2500V/210P-H028 outfitted with the new 2.4mm-thick caliber 2550 featuring a […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin In A 39.5mm Platinum Case to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Zenith Expands the Chronomaster Sport Line with New Skeleton References, Plus a Two-Tone Version with MOP Dial, and a New Micro-Adjustable Clasp
Zenith has released five new references under the Chronomaster Sport umbrella, most notably with four skeletonized versions of the design, as well as a dressier two-tone option. To understand the new skeletonized editions, it’s probably best to start at the beginning. When Zenith introduced the El Primero in 1969, it launched what is widely regarded as the world’s first automatic, integrated high-frequency chronograph caliber, a movement that has remained central to the brand’s identity ever since. The Chronomaster collection has long carried that legacy forward, and with this new series of skeletonized watches, Zenith brings that movement further to the forefront. All of the skeleton models run on the El Primero 3600SK, the openworked version of Zenith’s high-frequency automatic chronograph. Like the standard El Primero 3600, it beats at 5 Hz, which allows the central chronograph hand to complete one full rotation every 10 seconds and display 1/10th of a second directly off the bezel. The movement also offers a 60-hour power reserve, while the open dial and caseback give a clear view of the column wheel, horizontal clutch, and star-shaped rotor. All come in the now familiar 41mm Chronomaster Sport case. In regards to the design of the Chronomaster Sport Skeleton models, the biggest visual shift comes from the opened-up dial. The collection includes two stainless steel versions: one with a black ceramic bezel and the signature grey, anthracite, and blue tri-color c...
Worn & Wound
Ressence Debuts the Type 11, with the All New In-House RW-01 Movement
For as long as we’ve talked about Ressence, part of the discussion has always been about how clever they are for producing such an ingenious and unique system for time telling, all built on top of a standard, off-the-shelf ETA movement. Their patented ROCS module, which displays the time via a series of rotating discs rather than traditional hands, is a complicated piece of engineering that has always lived alongside a caliber that is rather ordinary. For me, and many others, this was always part of the charm of a Ressence watch, and underscored the idea that watchmaking is a broad discipline and that with some creativity even a simple ETA movement can be turned into something extraordinary. That changes a little today with the introduction of the Ressence Type 11, featuring the all new RW-01 movement, the first in-house designed Ressence movement. Designed specifically to power the ROCS, the RW-01 is an integrated, automatic caliber that appears to be an improvement in just about every way over previous movements found in Ressence watches. First and perhaps most notably, this movement has a 60 hour power reserve, which can be monitored on the dial via ceramic micro balls. For years, Ressence watches have featured power reserves that topped out at slightly less than the ETA movements they were based on due to the demands of running the ROCS module. But the RW-01 was designed from the ground up to work with ROCS, eliminating many of the compromises made with previous ...
Monochrome
News – The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Exhibition is Back in Geneva, and Here are Some of the New Models
Patek Philippe is set to captivate horology enthusiasts with its annual Rare Handcrafts exhibition, opening on April 18, 2026, at the brand’s historical Salons on Rue du Rhône in Geneva. Running through May 9, this event showcases 65 exceptional new creations – 23 dome table clocks, 10 pocket watches, and 32 wristwatches – blending centuries-old […]
Fratello
Into The Pacific With The Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean Of Storms
The Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms is a wonderful holiday watch. Providing a mechanical caliber and the wearing experience of a Blancpain, this Swatch is a whole lot of fun. It’s good that this plasticky watch has a decent level of waterproofness too. Sydney’s spring has been a tempestuous affair to say the least. […] Visit Into The Pacific With The Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean Of Storms to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: The Head Of Montblanc's Timepieces Division Laurent Lecamp On Minerva, Hairsprings, And What's Next For The Brand
Plus, what's going on in the executive suite at TAG Heuer and what it means for Omega to launch a steel Speedmaster priced above $10,000.
Monochrome
First Look – The Albishorn Thundergraph Khumbu, an Imaginary Vintage Chronograph for Alpine Exploration
Albishorn is one of these intriguing newcomers on the independent scene. The brand operates under the concept of “Imaginary Vintage“, designing watches that were never made but could have been. Following the Maxigraph and Type 10 in 2024, both explained by plausible historical scenarios, the 2025 Thundergraph was (or could have been) made for alpine […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Fifty From Raymond Weil Celebrates The Brand’s Semicentennial By Offering A Piece Of The Past
Making a statement for a half-century celebration with a chronograph that pairs a unique dial with a new-old-stock caliber from 1976.