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Revolution
Press Release: A LANGE 1 in stainless steel changed owners on 13th May 2013 at Christie’s “Important Watches” auction in Geneva at 119,489 Euro (148,500 Swiss francs). A. Lange & Söhne has built a few of these pieces in the mid-1990ies. Case and buckle of this extremely rare timepiece are made of stainless steel, complemented […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Alpina, the value-driven, adventure and outdoor Swiss watch brand, is chasing the sun (and artificial light) with some of its new releases. The brand is now, across more models, utilizing solar quartz movements manufactured by La Joux-Perret, the Swiss movement maker majority-owned by Japan's Citizen Group, which also controls Frederique Constant and Alpina. Solarmetre quartz movements are now available in both the updated Startimer Pilot and Alpiner Extreme models. Solar quartz is a natural fit for Alpina, bringing more reliability, accuracy, convenience, thinness, and value to its lineup. Both Solarmetre quartz models are priced at $1,495, offering an aggressively priced entry point into the brand with a movement also found in LVMH-owned watch brands, including TAG Heuer. The AL-140 caliber, solar quartz by La Joux-Perret, runs for up to 10 months in total darkness after a full charge, boosting the grab-and-go appeal. The shift to solar quartz (both model lines remain available in mechanical automatic versions as well) makes these pieces more practical while shaving millimeters from the case measurements and significant dollars from the price. Let's start with the solar Pilot Startimer. The new look for the pilot watch model was unveiled at Watches and Wonders this year, and now, amid the slew of releases for Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is giving us the Startimer Pilot Solarmetre. Available in three versions: two steel-cased models and one in sand-colo...
Hodinkee
An interview with the design icon, who wears a Kiwi throughout his new MasterClass video.
Hodinkee
Ever since boyhood, this brand has seen me through my milestones.
Time+Tide
The 20th annual GPHG was streamed and broadcast live, with digital spectators tuning in around the world to see who would win what some refer to as “the Oscars” of watchmaking. Each year, an academy of industry experts, journalists and influencers is assembled to determine the nominees for these prestigious awards – with 30 of … ContinuedThe post We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
When we first reported on Rolex’s Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction, we wondered whether the quartet could reach CHF31 million, the sum achieved by Patek Philippe’s steel Grandmaster Chime at Only Watch in 2019. We got our answer today in London, where the four Daytonas together raised £37.3 million, equivalent to CHF41.2 million, or approximately US$49.5 million. That comparison comes with an obvious qualification: Rolex’s total covers four watches, while the Grandmaster Chime result was for one. Nevertheless, it is an extraordinary sum for a quartet of chronographs sharing the same movement, distinguished by their unique combinations of precious metals and stones. The auction was hosted Phillips and conducted by Aurel Bacs. Summer led at £10.3 million, followed by Autumn at £10.2 million, Winter at £10 million, and Spring at £6.8 million. Most of the action occurred over the phone. Phillips describes the combined result as a record for a single consignment to a charity auction. All proceeds will benefit the Federer Foundation, which supports early education in Southern Africa and Switzerland, and Re:wild, the conservation organisation co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio. Left to right: Summer, Autumn, Winter, and Spring Key facts and price Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona “Four Seasons” Ref. 126596 SABV — Winter (platinum) Ref. 126599 SAVL — Spring (white gold) Ref. 126595 SARO — Summer (Everose gold) Ref. 126598 TML — Autumn (yellow ...
SJX Watches
Manufacture La Joux-Perret (MLJP) has become an increasingly important supplier to the growing ranks of micro-brands and independent watchmakers, offering capable Swiss movements at accessible prices. Though a fraction of the size of its neighbour Sellita, the manufacture has expanded through a pragmatic combination of selective automation, a more focused movement catalogue, and careful investments in production. Its approach offers an instructive look at how Swiss watchmaking can remain competitive while retaining the skills needed to produce everything from solar quartz movements to hand-finished tourbillons under one roof. To find out more about MLJP, we visited the manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, one of the historical centres of watchmaking in the Swiss Jura. A primer on MLJP The history of MLJP can be traced to the revival of complicated watchmaking in the early 1990s. Established by Jean-Pierre Jaquet in 1990 under his own name, the firm supplied specialised movements, including shaped calibres and complications, to the growing fine watchmaking segment. Among its best-known offerings of that era was a monopusher chronograph designed by François-Paul Journe and produced for clients like Franck Muller and Girard-Perregaux. Loosely related to the cal. 045MC that Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) developed previously for Cartier, the platform remains in production today as the cal. A5000, one of the manufacture’s more upmarket movements. The cal. A5000 in an ...
Hodinkee
Tonight in London, four one-of-a-kind Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytonas were auctioned off for a combined total of $49.4M (£37.3M GBP). Rumored at Watches and Wonders this year and confirmed earlier this month, the sale was held in partnership with Phillips, with Aurel Bacs conducting, and was billed by Phillips as Rolex's first charity auction. Proceeds benefit two organizations tied to Rolex Testimonees: the Federer Foundation, founded by Roger Federer, and Re:wild, co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio, in support of Rolex's Perpetual Planet Initiative. Left: "Spring" Daytona, in white gold with a chrysoprase dial and lepidolite countersRight: "Summer" Daytona, in Everose gold with a turquoise dial and ruby counters All four are cased in precious metal, with natural stone dials and gem-setting. The winter Daytona, in platinum with a blue opal dial and lapis lazuli counters, went for $13.2M (£10M GBP). The autumn Daytona, in yellow gold with a mookaite dial and chrysoprase counters, went for $13.5M (£10.2M GBP). The spring Daytona, in white gold with a chrysoprase dial and lepidolite counters, went for $9M (£6.8M GBP), and the summer Daytona, in Everose gold with a turquoise dial and ruby counters, went for $13.65M (£10.3M GBP). Paul Newman's Paul Newman Daytona changed the entire market for Daytonas, and watches as a whole., way back in 2017. They say things come in threes, and tonight's sale could be considered the third in a trio of seminal auction sales in th...
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, Ianos, the Greek microbrand best known for its Greek history and culture-inspired dive watches like the Avyssos and the Dytis, is back with a new dive watch that was never meant to be. When Ianos introduced the Dytis last year, it was noted as the last in a trilogy of dive watches from Ianos, after which they would move on to the next thing. Well, Ianos is still mostly sticking to that story, but in the meantime, we have the Ianos Amfivios, a civilian edition of a special-edition watch Ianos produced last summer for Greece's Underwater Demolition Command. The new watch, built on the same dive-watch platform as last summer's Dytis (which TanTan went hands-on with here), is a solid next step for a brand that has iterated gently, even as it's taken big aesthetic swings in developing its collection. And truly, few, if any, other watches on the market scratch the same itch as Ianos's watches do. That said, the Amfivios is about as mass-appeal a watch as Ianos has produced, thanks to the military-demanded touches that set it apart from the Dytis. The Amfivios is, for example, the first dive watch since the original Avyssos to include any kind of scale on the rotating bezel. And where previous Ianos watches have used the small seconds subdial as a visual gag, here it is a functional subdial, with hands, markers, and everything. That's not to say Ianos has purged all that makes these watches, frankly, a little funky, though. The unique date at 12 remains, with ...
Hodinkee
What We Know The 2025 revival of the Louis Vuitton Monterey was a curious moment for the brand. Certainly influenced by a recent surge in popularity for the original LV I and LV II watches among celebrities and vintage collectors, it was a small(ish) 188-piece run (priced at $60,000) meant to show the brand was paying attention to what was happening around it. While the original LV I was a quartz watch with several complications, the brand simplified the aesthetics with the revival—gone were the complications and the distinctive, busy dial with all of its markings, as the new Monterey was time-only with a mechanical movement. But that Monterey also demonstrated the craft of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, introducing a simpler dial in grand feu enamel. While it may have seemed like a small blip in the brand's overall plans, Louis Vuitton has more to say about the pebble-like designs from 1988 by Italian architect Gae Aulenti—the Monterey Ceramic, a duo of watches that focuses on the smaller LV II. Now, the Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramics are not part of a limited edition and officially enter the brand's permanent collection. The cases are faithful to the original, preserving the model's smaller 37mm case size and both original ceramic colors: green and black. The polished, pebble-shaped case is slightly thicker at 11mm, however, because it houses the automatic LFTMA01.02 caliber rather than the original quartz movement. Like last year's Monterey, the Monterey Ceram...
Fratello
With the Avyssos, Mihanikos, and Dytis, the Greek brand Ianos completed its trilogy of dive watches. That’s what founder Jacob Hatzidimitriou thought, anyway. Then, last year, he released the Ianos OYK. That watch was developed exclusively for active members of Greece’s Underwater Demolition Command (DYK), including the Underwater Demolition Teams (OYK), the country’s most elite […] Visit The New Ianos Amfivios Is Like A Fish In Water On The Wrist to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Bvlgari shrunk the Octo Finissimo down, and let’s just say it ticks a lot of boxes! And to see how many, we’ve gone hands-on with both the Titanium and the 18k Gold models. What We Love The 37mm case wears closer to a 40mm while being more comfortable on the wrist. The titanium model is exceptionally light and easy to wear all day The Octo Finissimo still stands out from the usual integrated-bracelet sports watches What We Don’t The titanium takes some getting used to The Octo Finissimo is a unique design that will not appeal to all people The full 18k yellow-gold construction makes it far less discreet, which may not be for everyone Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When Bvlgari first announced it was getting a 37mm Octo Finissimo, I feel there was a lot of the watch community that was quietly optimistic about what this would mean for the Octo Finissimo collection. I first heard about these back at LVMH Watch Week at the start of the year, where we were given a bit of a teaser on the new collection. And having reviewed the larger 40mm model last year, I was one of those who were quietly anticipating what the new Octo Finissimo 37mm range could mean for the brand. Then, back in April, walking into the Bvlgari booth at Watches and Wonders and being able to slip these on my wrists for the first time, it wasn’t long before I was sold that this new size was a perfect sweet spot for the Roman brand...
WatchRider
Here is my honest opinion after years of collecting and wearing watches: men’s watches are just better. And no, 41mm is not too big for a woman’s wrist. I’ve had this watch for a few years now, and honestly, our relationship has only gotten better with time. It isn’t my everyday beat-it-up-and-forget-it watch; I wear it occasionally. But whenever I open my watch box and pull it out, it still gives me that instant “oh yeah, this is the one” feeling. Let’s start with the face, because that is what hooked me in the first place. This specific model is famously known as the “Panda,” and it earns every bit of that adorable nickname. You’ve got a crisp, opaline white dial contrasted against two deep, matte-black sub-dials. It is clean, legible, and visually balanced in a way that tickles the design-obsessed part of my brain. Add in TUDOR’s signature snowflake hands and the subtle red accent on the tip of the chronograph hand, plus the red depth rating text, and you have a watch face that looks like it belongs on a vintage racing grid in the 1970s. It has personality. It doesn’t scream for attention, but if someone catches a glance of it across a table, they know it’s something special. It’s powered by the manufacture Calibre MT5813, which boasts a 70-hour power reserve and a column-wheel chronograph mechanism with a vertical clutch. It is also water-resistant to 200 meters. Am I ever going to strap on a scuba tank and dive 200 meters into the freezing ...
WatchRider
Here is my honest opinion after years of collecting and wearing watches: men’s watches are just better. And no, 41mm is not too big for a woman’s wrist. I’ve had this watch for a few years now, and honestly, our relationship has only gotten better with time. It isn’t my everyday beat-it-up-and-forget-it watch; I wear it occasionally. But whenever I open my watch box and pull it out, it still gives me that instant “oh yeah, this is the one” feeling. Let’s start with the face, because that is what hooked me in the first place. This specific model is famously known as the “Panda,” and it earns every bit of that adorable nickname. You’ve got a crisp, opaline white dial contrasted against two deep, matte-black sub-dials. It is clean, legible, and visually balanced in a way that tickles the design-obsessed part of my brain. Add in TUDOR’s signature snowflake hands and the subtle red accent on the tip of the chronograph hand, plus the red depth rating text, and you have a watch face that looks like it belongs on a vintage racing grid in the 1970s. It has personality. It doesn’t scream for attention, but if someone catches a glance of it across a table, they know it’s something special. It’s powered by the manufacture Calibre MT5813, which boasts a 70-hour power reserve and a column-wheel chronograph mechanism with a vertical clutch. It is also water-resistant to 200 meters. Am I ever going to strap on a scuba tank and dive 200 meters into the freezing ...
Fratello
Since the watch shocked the world when it first appeared in 2001 and still looks as unconventional and futuristic as ever, the question is fair: are the two new Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel and Guilloche watches weirdos or class acts? Well, since one features a guilloché disc with a sunray pattern coated in […] Visit Weirdos Or Class Acts? Introducing The Ulysse Nardin Freak One Blue Enamel And Guilloché to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Breguet Marine 5517 and 5527 chronograph have been with us since 2018, remaining largely unchanged even as the rest of the catalogue has been thoroughly modernised. Now, the Marine collection gets its refresh with new dials and a range of materials, from titanium to 18k rose and white gold. The Marine 5517 in titanium Initial thoughts The Marine is something of an outlier among high-end integrated bracelet sports watches, being one of the few designs that avoids the 1970s-inspired styling that dominates the segment. Instead, the Marine carries design DNA from the brand’s heritage producing marine chronometers, dressed in a suitably seaworthy case and bracelet (or rubber strap). One of the most notable design changes for the updated Marine is that the roman numerals have been retired in favour of Breguet numerals. This update gives the Marine obvious Breguet design DNA, but some may find the mix of traditional Breguet elements on the dial with the contemporary case too much of a clash. The Marine 5527 in 18k rose gold There’s little question about the overall quality of the Marine, but the pricing puts its head-to-head with popular models from Audemars Piguet, such as the Royal Oak Chronograph, which is actually $500 cheaper than the 5527 in 18k rose gold. That said, the titanium variants are priced competitively, relative to titanium sports watches of similar quality from the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Six references, with bracelet or strap A little against conv...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Seamaster Going to start this week off with a brilliant tropical dial vintage Omega Seamaster. The 14k yellow gold filled case measures 35mm, has classic slim lugs and is in solid, unpolished condition. The embossed Hippocampus caseback medallion is nice and bold. The black dial has a pleasing, even patina that gives it a mottled chocolate look. It has applied gold stick markers and gold stick hands. No date window. I’m not always a fan of patina, but I can definitely make the case for this example! The crown is signed with the Omega logo as it should. This is a front loading case and there are no pictures of the automatic movement but the watch runs per the seller. View auction here Vintage Lord Elgin Millbrook Next up is a sweet vintage Lord Elgin Millbrook tank watch from the 1950s. This beauty has a wonderful Art Deco look to it. The small (likely 25mm or so) case is in 14k yellow gold fill, and is in superb condition. It’s squarish with fancy angled lugs that look really sharp, no pun intended! The butler silver dial is excellent, with applied gold markers. The markers are Art Deco stylized Arabic numerals for 12, 2, 4, 8 and 10, with a small sub-seconds dial...
Time+Tide
When you need to know the day, date, month, and moon phase in one glance, these are the watches to reach for.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Longines brings blue dials to the Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback, giving two of its cleanest aviation-inspired watches a fresh look.
Fratello
Orient reinterprets its heritage in integrated-bracelet sports watches with the new Flusso collection. Drawing inspiration from the SK (“Super King”) models that appeared in the brand’s catalog during the 1970s and ’80s, the Flusso modernizes the formula for a contemporary audience. Four recessed accents in the corners of the case reference the original SK’s protruding […] Visit Fashionably Late To The Party: Introducing The Orient Flusso Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
Perrelet is renowned for its Turbine watches, featuring a dynamic, propeller-style rotor spinning on the dial. As an elegant, dressier counterweight to the theatrical Turbines, Perrelet launched the Weekend collection in 2017. Designed as a compact, well-proportioned daily companion with a subtle retro vibe, the Weekend has recently embraced the ubiquitous trend for stone dials. […]
Time+Tide
When considering a highly functional, reliable, no-nonsense timepiece that doesn’t break the bank, Seiko 5 undoubtedly comes to mind. Seiko also changed the game for affordable complications when it released the Seiko 5 GMT in 2022, making mechanical dual-time watches accessible to a whole new audience. Seiko’s first foray into this territory took the form of the … Continued
Worn & Wound
Last week, Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America headed west to Billings, Montana, for an evening of watches, conversation, and a little bit of Windup Watch Fair previewing at Riddle’s Jewelry’s Shiloh location. Following our enthusiast night in Salt Lake, the Billings event was another chance to bring the Windup experience to a community that doesn’t always get the opportunity to see this kind of collection of watches in person. But more than anything, the evening was about establishing Riddle’s Jewelers as a welcoming home for watch enthusiasts in Eastern Montana—and kicking off what we hope becomes a new tradition of getting together, talking watches, and, naturally, buying a few new timepieces along the way. The evening welcomed local enthusiasts, longtime collectors, curious newcomers, and Riddle’s clientele, all with one thing in common: an appreciation for a good watch and an excuse to talk about them. With food and drinks on hand, the evening had the easygoing feel we love about enthusiast gatherings. Watches came off wrists, new ones went on, and conversations bounced from movements and materials to personal favorites and the watches everyone had been quietly keeping an eye on. Of course, there was plenty to get excited about on the watch front. The collection included standout pieces from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Frédérique Constant, and Alpina, including several watches that aren’t exactly easy to find sitting in a display case. And our new ...
Hodinkee
What We Know The hottest Vacheron Constantin collection is celebrating its thirtieth anniversary this year, and the brand is paying tribute with a new version of one of my personal favorite watches from the brand. Sure, earlier this year we got the return of the 2500V, which is celebration enough, but the new limited-edition azure blue Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a limited edition that honors the first generation of the collection. Below is a picture of the current third generation and the 1996 first generation, itself a successor of sorts to the 222 in 1977 and the 1975 Chronomètre Royal before it. Yes, Vacheron has done a blue version of this watch before—and has released a few other colors recently, including a bold red—but now the same 41.5mm by 8.1mm white gold case gets a more muted, less saturated azure blue soleil and lacquer treatment, with white and light blue printed text and applied indices with Super-LumiNova. The movement is the same Caliber 1120 QP/1 automatic movement that is only 4.05 mm thick. Yes, other brands are slowly introducing perpetual calendars with a crown-adjustment system, but while this still uses caseband pushers, the benefit is a watch that measures 1.5mm thinner than the similarly wide Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The watch runs at a slightly slower 2.75 Hz and has only 40 hours of power reserve, but again, at the thin profile you get, the wearability should more than make up for any small downsides. Another huge benefit i...
Fratello
Immediately after I saw the images of the new Glashütte Original 70s series, I was intrigued. With the square case shape and textured dials, these new watches instantly reminded me of a classic Citizen watch my father wore in the 1980s, which I still have at home. As you’ll understand, a connection like that is […] Visit A Personal Trip Down Memory Lane With The New Glashütte Original 70s Series to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Longines Spirit collection was launched in 2020 and has since evolved into one of the brand’s main contemporary families, offering watches with vintage-inspired aviation cues yet with modern specifications. The range now comprises six models, including the Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback introduced in 2025 – streamlined, more focused and more compact models with […]
Monochrome
The story of the Overseas begins in 1977 with the sporty-chic integrated 222, Vacheron Constantin’s bold response to a new generation of luxury sports watches represented by the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. Inheriting certain traits of the 222 but amplified and beefed up, the first-generation Overseas debuted in 1996. Now in its third phase, […]
Fratello
Today, Vacheron Constantin launches a special Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin to celebrate the collection’s 30th anniversary. This limited edition of 200 pieces pairs an 18K white gold case with a new, lighter azure dial. Although the underlying watch debuted in 2016, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar remains one of the thinnest full-calendar integrated-bracelet sporty watches available. […] Visit Celebrating With The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary to read the full article.
Fratello
Just before summer, Glashütte Original invited us to its manufacture in eastern Germany. It was a great way for me to get to know the brand a little better. But the most important reason for the visit was the presentation of a few new releases. Jorg will cover the new Seventies collection in a separate […] Visit Flieger Or Dresser: Which Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Suits Your Style? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
In terms of analog intricacy and an unyielding enthusiasm for the vintage and enduring, watches and the automotive realm are a natural A-to-B: it should come as no surprise that the Venn diagram of watch nerds and automotive nerds is eerily close to a circle. Yet, there’s more to the world of branded cross-promotion than, say, TAG Heuer and Porsche. Some of the most off-the-beaten-path collaborations are worthy of deep dives, and the six examples highlighted here (including many from Heuer!) are collectible and worthy of appreciation by those who know. Because there’s only so much that can be represented by Steve McQueen, in that white racing suit, giving the British equivalent of the middle finger. Thankfully, the world of mechanical fascination runs so much deeper than that. IWC Mark XII x Saab “Born from Jets” was the advertising slogan of the now-defunct Saab for the last 20 or so years of its life, and while there was a distinct difference between Saab AG the defense contractor and the General Motors-owned division, it made for some really, really cool television ads. IWC, who built its reputation on pilot’s watches, lent its flagship Mark Series to a Saab tie-in in 1997: if you put down the deposit for a limited-edition 900 Mellow Yellow Cabrio, you were awarded one of these Mark XIIs, each one customized with a yellow leather strap and “Saab Automatic” on the dial instead of the usual “Mark XII Automatic.” Today, if you can find one, they go fo...
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