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Seiko Introduces the SPB497, a New Limited Edition in the Presage Collection with an Unglazed Porcelain Dial Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Jun 6, 2025

Seiko Introduces the SPB497, a New Limited Edition in the Presage Collection with an Unglazed Porcelain Dial

Last week in this space, I wrote about a crop of new Seiko 5 Sports watches more than a little indebted to the classic SKX line of divers, and there was, perhaps, some concern trolling about the current state of the Seiko brand. In my view, there’s no denying that Seiko’s grip on the enthusiast world has loosened a bit when it comes to watches in this genre. There are just so many options these days at competitive price points, brands that are willing to experiment and take risks, and Seiko is a little left behind making watches that are exactly fine but break little new ground, cost more than they did five years ago, and are missing some key features (screw down crowns, etc.) that a certain type of collector insists upon. So that’s the state of affairs with their entry-level sports watches, but of course that’s only a sliver of what Seiko actually produces. Another tentpole of Seiko enthusiasm (though perhaps a bit less widely celebrated) is their Presage line. Seiko Presage watches tend to be dressier pieces that exist to celebrate traditional Japanese craftsmanship and culture. Over the years, a number of watches in the Presage collection have achieved a level of classic status in the enthusiast world (the various “Cocktail Time” watches immediately come to mind). Among my personal favorites in the Presage collection are watches with dials crafted with urushi lacquer and enamel, and earlier this week Seiko announced a reference representing a first for the b...

[VIDEO] A Closer Look at Ming: Our Favorite Designs and Personal Pieces Worn & Wound
Ming Jun 6, 2025

[VIDEO] A Closer Look at Ming: Our Favorite Designs and Personal Pieces

Ming launched their first watch, the 17.01, back in the summer of 2017. That watch sold out quickly, as did subsequent watches, and over a relatively short span of the time, the brand achieved an almost reverential status among affordable independent and micro-brands. The watches, from the beginning, have been stylish, highly distinctive, and have pushed design boundaries.  Our thoughts on Ming have evolved along with the brand itself. While the 17.01 is still easily recognizable as quintessential Ming, it’s remarkable to consider how much the brand has accomplished since that watch’s debut. Through rigorous roadmapping and experimentation, Ming has evolved into a significant indie brand with an ultra-clear design language. In the brand’s earliest days, it would have been easy to lump them in with other small brands finding their way in a competitive watch landscape. But over time, and particularly with their most recent crop of releases, it’s become clear that their ambition and ingenuity set them apart.  Some examples? Both are discussed in this video, but the use of white emitting lume on the 37.02 Minimalist and the impressive water resistance of the 37.09 are both illustrative of ways in which the brand is willing to invest in finding new ways to make their watches. The creative use of luminescent material has been a hallmark of Ming watches from the very beginning, and they’re rightly proud of figuring out a way to mix lume that truly emits white, somethi...

Urban Jürgensen Introduces the UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Jun 5, 2025

Urban Jürgensen Introduces the UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar

Urban Jürgensen closes its newly launched model lineup with a surprising creation, the UJ-3 . An integrated perpetual calendar that elegantly builds on the base of time-only UJ-2, the UJ-3 is equipped with a calendar module developed in collaboration with independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler. The UJ-3 is the third and final watch in Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch lineup, which was among this year’s most unexpected (but welcome) surprises. Initial thoughts The introduction of a perpetual calendar along with the two other models is an impressive move by the team at Urban Jürgensen. Brands typically debut with a single model; Urban Jürgensen has managed three all-new watches. The fact that in addition to a tourbillon (and a special one at that) of the UJ-1, Urban Jürgensen managed to develop a complex perpetual calendar is nothing short of remarkable. Moreover, the perpetual calendar of the UJ-3 integrated with the movement, and not merely added as a module.  Urban Jürgensen is being transparent in revealing the UJ-3 is a collaboration between Voutilainen and watchmaker-engineer Andreas Strehler. This openness is important, especially for independent watchmakers. The acknowledgement also adds pedigree to the piece given Mr Strehler’s good reputation. Personally, I find the UJ-3 more cohesive in design compared to the UJ-2. The calendar indications better fill the dial space, and the hands are no longer too small for the face. Also, the dial appearance evokes the p...

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver Fratello
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Jun 5, 2025

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver

In 1985, Citizen revolutionized the world of dive watches by introducing the Aqualand. Among the standout features of this then-state-of-the-art dive tool were the multifunctional digital display and built-in electronic depth gauge. The latter gave the watch its distinct shape, with the depth sensor’s hardware element protruding from the left side of the case. The […] Visit Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver to read the full article.

The Evergreens – The History of The Citizen Aqualand, The Diving Icon Celebrating 40 Years Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms State Jun 3, 2025

The Evergreens – The History of The Citizen Aqualand, The Diving Icon Celebrating 40 Years

Traditional dive watches have never waned in popularity, despite modern diving computers and even smart watches pushing them into technical obsolescence. The dawn of early divers in the 1950s is defined by two brands and two watches – the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. State of the art at the time and able […]

Bulova Devil Diver Review Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Jun 3, 2025

Bulova Devil Diver Review

The Bulova Devil Diver (formally known as the Bulova Oceanographer) first debuted back in the 1960s, when it went on to become something of a cult classic. It wasn’t a record-breaking dive watch worn by the world’s most accomplished that-and-that, it just had a striking design, and there was something edgy and subversive about that “666ft” on the dial. Of course, that number has to do with its water resistance and nothing sinister, but the Devil Diver moniker is really catchy and has stuck. Back in 2018, Bulova reissued the Oceanographer, but at 44mm wide it was just not what a lot of people were clamoring for. A few years later, in 2021, came this 41mm wide version that is much truer to the original. Four years later, the affordable dive watch market has gotten more competitive but the Bulova Devil Diver still holds its own, so let’s take a look at what makes this orange-dial diver feel like a slice of heaven for well under $1,000. Bulova Devil Diver Case: When the Bulova Devil Diver was first reintroduced back in 2018, there were quite a few gripes we all heard about the 44mm case being just way too big and not true to the original. Fortunately, the 2021 iteration brought the case back to the 41mm size of the original, a decision that won over the hearts of some jilted purists. To be fair, you do not have to be a vintage purist to see why a 41mm case will always be preferable to 44mm to a vast majority of contemporary buyers. Of course, the ~202 meters of water...

Hands-On: the Trafford Watch Co. Daytripper Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko 9F models but all Jun 3, 2025

Hands-On: the Trafford Watch Co. Daytripper

I have the unfortunate obligation to begin this review with a shocking admission: Zach Kazan was right. Some time ago, during one of my back-to-back travel periods where I jumped through time zones, I had a spirited debate with our Managing Editor. I maintained that I not only enjoyed having a GMT, but needed one to keep my timing straight; while Zach insisted that I was wrong. In the past, a traveller’s GMT had been an invaluable tool in the workplace, keeping me mindful of editors working in other time zones. Yet, Zach argued that all you needed was an independently adjustable hour hand and some basic math skills. If you are working across time zones, do the math. If you are traveling through them, change the hour without messing with minutes and seconds. Immediately upon landing back in New York from a trip to London, I started looking for an Omega Aqua Terra.  During my search, it struck me as odd that this jumping hours complication (without an associated GMT) was not more widely seen, and never really on the more attainable side of things. Sure, you can find it in models from Omega, parts of Citizen’s The Citizen collection, the Ming 17.09, and newer Grand Seiko 9F models; but all of those will set you back a few thousand dollars. That is, until now. As if from some stroke of divine intervention, I received word of a new watch coming from Trafford Watch Co., utilizing a clever movement alteration to achieve this complication at a much more attainable price point...

First Look – The new Zenith Defy Extreme Diver and Defy Revival Diver Shadow Editions Monochrome
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Jun 3, 2025

First Look – The new Zenith Defy Extreme Diver and Defy Revival Diver Shadow Editions

One of the pillars of Zenith’s collection, the Defy is a descendant of late 1960s models known for their sturdy construction and angular design. Marketed as the Time-Safe, the collection included a full-fledged diving version, the Defy Plongeur (Ref. A3648 and its variations), a 600m water-resistant watch equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel. Following the […]

Hands-On With The Decadent Yet Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79 Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Jun 3, 2025

Hands-On With The Decadent Yet Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79

Laurent Ferrier is one of my favorite modern watchmakers, so when a new LF model comes out, it always piques my attention. This time, I got the chance to go hands-on with the latest creation, the Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79. And that, my dear Fratelli, is a chance I wouldn’t dream of passing up. […] Visit Hands-On With The Decadent Yet Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79 to read the full article.