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The Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier Time+Tide
Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Sep 28, 2019

The Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier

Paying homage to a man widely regarded as the father of modernism, Le Corbusier (Charles-Édouard Jeanneret), Rado’s stunning range of True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier could definitely be worth a look as your next summer watch. Le Corbusier, the visionary Swiss designer, architect and writer, created the concept of Architectural Polychromy – a palette … ContinuedThe post The Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Singapore 2019 Ref. 5531R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Sep 27, 2019

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Singapore 2019 Ref. 5531R

Originally introduced in 2017 for the Grand Exhibition in New York, the Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R was the first minute repeater that could chime the local time, as opposed to a conventional world-time repeater that would only strike the home time. The reference then entered regular production in 2018 with a cloisonné enamel of Lake Geneva, or the lac Léman as locals know it, a recurring motif on Patek Philippe enamel watches. Patek Philippe has now unveiled a special-edition version for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition 2019 in Singapore, featuring a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the city centre of Singapore, along with the country’s name listed on the city disc in place of Beijing. It joins the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R as one of the grand complications created especially for the event. As was always the case, the watch is in red gold and measures 40.2mm wide. it features hand-guillochéd, hobnail pattern on the case band as well as on the repeater slide on the left. In it is the self-winding cal. R 27 HU which features the patented repeater mechanism that chimes the time of the city at the 12 o’clock position on the world time mechanism. While a minute repeater usually operates independently from the world time and thus chimes only the home time, the two mechanisms in this case are mechanically coupled. The hour snail of the repeater is continuously driven by the time zone wheel of the world time mechanism. ...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R (With Price) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Sep 27, 2019

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R (With Price)

Of the special edition watches created for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019, one is entirely new, and it also happens to be the most complicated – the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R-010. The model reference reveals the key design feature of the watch, like the preceding ref. 5304R, the new watch has no dial, so the mechanics below are revealed in all their glory. This creates a first for a Patek Philippe wristwatch – it shows the tourbillon regulator at six o’clock, something that has historically been hidden on the back of all wristwatch tourbillons. Protecting the tourbillon The rationale for hiding the tourbillon from view was to prevent exposure to UV light, which can ostensibly break down the lubricants that keep the tourbillon in optimum running condition. Consequently, the sapphire disc over the tourbillon regulator has a UV protection coating to prevent the lubricants from being exposed to sunlight. A reworked movement The new ref. 5303R is powered by the R TO 27 PS movement, which combines a minute repeater and tourbillon. Though it’s based on the longstanding cal. R 27, the movement was significantly reengineered to show off the striking mechanism under the dial. Amongst the changes are a larger base plate, as well as a rearrangement of the hammers and gongs, which required 20 new components to be added. Interestingly, the hammers have been slightly ground down around the edges that point towards the hands, so as ...

Business News: Richemont Acquires Milanese Jeweller Buccellati SJX Watches
Panerai Sep 27, 2019

Business News: Richemont Acquires Milanese Jeweller Buccellati

Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont has just added Buccellati to its stable of luxury brands, which include watchmakers like A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Panerai. Richemont is buying the 100-year old Milanese jeweller from Gangtai Group Corporation Limited, a Chinese conglomerate that bought a majority stake in 2017 that reputedly valued the jeweller at €230m, or about US$271m at the time, according to Forbes. Gangtai had owned 85% of Buccellati, with the remainder held by the founding family, but like many of its peers the Chinese group has been forced to sell assets as the Chinese government put a stop to the debt-fuelled overseas expansion that was earlier fashionable. The terms of Richemont’s acquisition were not disclosed, although Chinese news website Jing Daily reports Buccellati was valued at US$313m, including debt, equivalent to about 15% of Richemont’s net cash position in the last fiscal year. According to Richemont, Buccellati family scion Andrea Buccellati as well as several other family members will remain with the jeweller after the takeover. Buccellati gives Richemont a more diverse presence in high-end jewellery, where its business is concentrated the Parisian jewellers Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, which together account for the bulk of group sales. In contrast to the French style of both Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati’s Italian sensibility gives Richemont a stylistic counter to Bulgari, the Roman jeweller owned by French luxury ...

RECOMMENDED READING: Seiko’s 9F Quartz Movement Time+Tide
Seiko s 9F Quartz Movement Sep 26, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Seiko’s 9F Quartz Movement

SJX Watches recently published an in-depth look at Seiko’s prodigious and fabled 9F Quartz movements, which are now in their 26th year of production. And there’s no question the 9F is a genuinely high-end movement that has taken decades of engineering to perfect. It’s actually a remarkable feat of timekeeping when you think about it … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Seiko’s 9F Quartz Movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Industry News: Louis Vuitton Unveils Trophy Case for E-Sports World Championship SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Unveils Trophy Case Sep 25, 2019

Industry News: Louis Vuitton Unveils Trophy Case for E-Sports World Championship

The fact that e-sports – essentially competitive computer gaming – is a major phenomenon is hardly new. But now the world’s largest luxury brand is in on the action: Louis Vuitton just announced that it will build the trophy case for the Summoner’s Cup, the huge silver-plated chalice – weighing about 70lbs, or 32kg – that’s given to the winner of the League of Legends World Championship. This marks the first foray of a major luxury house into e-sports, and elevates the League of Legends championship to equal footing with global and historical sporting events like the soccer World Cup. League of Legends is one of the world’s biggest multiplayer online games, with last year’s championship event watched live by almost 100m people. It’s set in a fantasy world, with players controlling a character that, along with teammates, battles the opposing team. The annual championship sees 24 teams from around the world compete for US$1m in prize money – and the giant trophy in a Louis Vuitton trunk. The game joins events like the FIFA World Cup, America’s Cup, Rugby World Cup, and French Open, all of which have had their trophies accompanied by a custom-made Louis Vuitton travel trunk. Like all the other trophy cases, the League of Legends trunk is constructed like a traditional Louis Vuitton trunk, with a wood frame covered in monogram canvas with brass fittings; the only being last year’s FIFA World Cup trunk that was made of polished titanium. Along...

RECOMMENDED READING: Instagram’s influence on movement finishing Time+Tide
Patek Philippe watchmaker Sep 24, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Instagram’s influence on movement finishing

SJX Watches recently published a fascinating story by Brandon Moore that takes a look at the impact that Instagram and other social media platforms have had on the scrutiny and importance of watch movement finishing. Moore talks to former Patek Philippe watchmaker and founder of Akrivia watches, Rexhep Rexhepi, about the influence of the social … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Instagram’s influence on movement finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 affordable timepieces that get the nod from watch snobs Time+Tide
Sep 24, 2019

3 affordable timepieces that get the nod from watch snobs

There are certain watches out there in the horological ether that are not only lauded by loyal followers but also able to accomplish a hell of a lot for little outlay. Whether it is accuracy, toughness and dependability, innovation, or technicality, these cult-like timepieces are worth far more than the sum of their parts, and … ContinuedThe post 3 affordable timepieces that get the nod from watch snobs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Why Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker Selfie is a Dead-Serious Watch SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Urwerk Sep 24, 2019

In-Depth: Why Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker Selfie is a Dead-Serious Watch

Self-taught Russian clock- and watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin, who has built notably complex timepieces, is ironically best known for the Joker, a relatively simple watch. The Joker is powered by an ETA 2814 base movement with an in-house module of just 61 parts that drives the novel time display: two sub-dials, positioned like eyes in a face, for hours respectively minutes, and a moon phase at six o’clock resembling a smiling mouth – the funny face of time. When first unveiled the inaugural Joker in steel at Baselworld 2017, the 99-piece limited edition sold out quickly. The watch also enjoyed critical acclaim; the subsequent Joker Clown won the Audacity Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve 2018. Konstantin notes he was particularly surprised how eagerly the love-or-hate design was embraced by collectors of high-end watches. So his extended the Joker concept to the top-end of the price spectrum, with the limited edition Joker automaton developed with fellow independent watchmaker Svend Andersen. And then Konstantin recently revealed he was participating in charity auction Only Watch 2019 – alongside peers like Akrivia, F.P. Journe, Urwerk and De Bethune – which piqued my interest, so I reached out to Konstantin to find out more. The Joker automaton by Andersen and Chaykin Inspiration strikes As Luc Pettavino, the founder of Only Watch, was planning the 2019 event, he approached Konstantin to suggest a straightforward variant of the origin...

INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB It seems Sep 21, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB

It seems like every other week there’s a new Casio being unleashed upon the wristwatch-wearing world. And this week is no different, as the Japanese marque has just released this - the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB. That’s right, there’s now another 5000-series vying for the attention of all you digital devotees out there, and this one’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ophion Introduces the OPH 786 Vélos SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Sep 20, 2019

Ophion Introduces the OPH 786 Vélos

Ophion is a Spanish brand offering Swiss-made watches with a particular speciality: traditionally-styled movement and dial decoration done by machine, resulting in a modest price. The new OPH 786 Vélos sticks to the same formula, but takes it to a new level by increasing the degree of machine-executed decoration on the dial to create an appealing style while retaining the accessible pricing. And the resulting look is also reminiscent of the work of far more expensive independent watchmakers like Thomas Prescher and Voutilainen. Two dials are offered: the simpler, and less expensive, one being a metallic finish and concentric brushing matched with nickel-plated hands. And the fancier option is an elaborate basket-weave guilloche engraved by a CNC milling machine, combined with either nickel-plated or heat-blued hands. Both dial finished have the same construction featuring an applied minute track and inner ring, and also large applied Breguet numerals. The inner ring has a wide inner bevel that is once again cut by machine. The 39mm watch case features bulbous, teardrop lugs that are each produced individually, and then welded to the case – an unusually elaborate construction at this price point. And it’s worth pointing out the case is made by Voutilainen & Cattin, the case maker owned by Voutilainen. Inside is the same calibre found in earlier Ophion models. Made by Soprod, it’s hand-wound with a five-day power reserve. The movement layout was customised for Ophion...

G-Shock Introduces the 5000 Series in Full Titanium SJX Watches
Casio debuted Sep 19, 2019

G-Shock Introduces the 5000 Series in Full Titanium

A year after Casio debuted the G-Shock “Full Metal” in stainless steel with a matching bracelet – and the whopper in solid 18k yellow gold – it has announced the G-Shock 5000 Series in titanium. The new launch is not a limited edition per se, but will only be produced for a limited time. Like last year’s “Full Metal” edition, the G-Shock GMW-B5000TB takes its cues from the original G-Shock DW5000 of 1983, but in matte black titanium with gold accents. But more intriguingly, the titanium case and bracelet are coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC) that has a granular finish meant to mimic the look of the rubber case of the standard G-Shock. The use of titanium means the new G-Shock is significantly lighter than the steel equivalent, weighing just 110g – a third less than the G-Shock “Full Metal”. And the G-Shock in titanium has a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, an upgrade over the mineral glass found on the steel version. Function-wise the G-Shock titanium edition is identical to the steel model. It’s solar-powered and incorporates a world time, stopwatch and alarm, as well as Bluetooth connectivity to a smartphone with the G-Shock app. An additional all-titanium G-Shock with a laser-engraved camouflage motif, the model GMW-B5000TCM-1, has been leaked online, but not yet announced officially. It will likely be launched later in the year. Key facts Diameter: 43.2mm Height: 13mm Material: Titanium with DLC coating Water resistance:...

Inside the Jean-Pierre Hagmann-Akrivia Case Workshop SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 18, 2019

Inside the Jean-Pierre Hagmann-Akrivia Case Workshop

A master case maker who retired in 2017, Jean-Pierre Hagmann is back in action, as a partner in Akrivia’s case-making workshop in Geneva. Now 78 years old, Mr Hagmann struck out on his own in 1984, starting a stellar career that would see him become a case maker for most of Switzerland’s best watchmakers. (For a detailed profile of Mr Hagmann, see my 2016 story.) His client list included establishment names like Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and of course, Patek Philippe, where he produced highly-regarded cases for its minute repeaters. In fact, Mr Hagmann was also responsible for the impressively complex case of the Star Calibre 2000, the uber-pocket watch Patek Philippe introduced to mark the new millennium. Mr Hagmann at work in the 1980s The Patek Philippe ref. 5029 minute repeater, which had a Hagmann case In the first half of his career, Mr Hagmann also worked with many of the up-and-coming stars of independent watchmaking of the 1980s and 1990s, including Franck Muller and Roger Dubuis. He produced the very first Cintree Curvex cases for Franck Muller, as well as the early cases for Roger Dubuis. Another of Mr Hagmann’s cases: the Franck Muller Cintree Curvex minute repeater with perpetual calendar, circa 1991 Three decades later, Mr Hagmann is back where he began. He’s joined forces with a rising star of independent watchmaking, Akrivia, whose founder, Rexhep Rexhepi, is just 32 years old. Though young, Rexhep grasps the impo...

Introducing the Badger Islander Wristwatch SJX Watches
Sep 18, 2019

Introducing the Badger Islander Wristwatch

Badger Watches makes it debut on Kickstarter with the Islander, an automatic wristwatch with an interesting tonneau-shaped case. While most tonneau cases are made up of multiple curved lines, the Islander case is composed of several straight lines and flat surfaces, giving it a slightly 1970s vibe. The brand is based in Singapore – a city-state that’s an island – which is where the model name comes from. Affordable watches like the Islander usually work best if most of the effort is concentrated on one element; here the focus is undoubtedly the case. Measuring 38mm in diameter and 48mm long, the case is steel with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It’s stamped from a block of steel, giving it softer edges and corners than if it were milled, but with a price tag of under US$400 that’s more than enough. Four dial colours are available, including one in silver with blue accents that’s a 99-piece limited edition. With only minimal text on the edge, the dials have the same stamped radial motif, along with tapered hands reminiscent of the Marc Newson-designed Ikepod watches. The date window is placed at six o’clock to maintain the symmetry of the dial. The Islander is powered by a Sellita SW200-1, which is a clone of the ETA 2824. A low-cost but robust movement, the SW200 has a shortish 38-hour power reserve. Key facts Diameter: 38mm Height: 11mm Material: Steel Water resistance: 50m Movement: SW200-1 Functions: Hours, minutes, and second; date W...

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Unanimous! Quill & Pad
Sep 16, 2019

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Unanimous!

With our second set of predictions we take a look at the Ladies Complication category, a surprisingly packed collection of timepieces for women with more than an added moon phase or power reserve. These are very clearly designed to be different, and while we are collectively pretty sure one already has the win in the bag, it will definitely be an interesting category for the judges this year. Our panel was unanimous in its selection of one very beautiful and cleverly complex timepiece.

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition Time+Tide
Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Sep 16, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition

It seems like only yesterday that Breitling released their Navitimer 1 Airline Editions. Evidently, time doesn’t stop for the aeronautically enthusiastic watchmaker, though, because they’ve just dropped this – the Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition.   Based on Breitling’s standard Aviator 8 Day & Date 41, the Etihad Airways … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Raketa Copernic Time+Tide
Raketa Sep 15, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Raketa Copernic

Russian watchmaker Raketa has just released a modern interpretation of its classic Raketa Copernic wristwatch, and it is a uniquely compelling timepiece. First created in the 1980s in the twilight of the Soviet Union, the original Copernic was made to honour the renaissance-era Polish astronomer and mathematician Nicolaus Copernicus. Like the original, the new homage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Raketa Copernic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Throwback Sundays: Six Stealth Wealth watches that could fool a seasoned watch collector Deployant
Rolex Sep 15, 2019

Throwback Sundays: Six Stealth Wealth watches that could fool a seasoned watch collector

Most seasoned watch collectors will easily recognize the usual culprits, the Pateks, Rolexes, APs, Richemont/Swatch/LVMH brands from a distance. In order to make this list of watches that qualify as stealth wealth, we have chosen timepieces that are 'unexpectedly' expensive, yet not instantly recognizable. They look simple on the dial side, yet have hidden complications and/or 'insane' finishing.

INTRODUCING: The Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime Time+Tide
Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime Sep 14, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime

The horological mavericks at Urwerk have just dropped their latest wristwatch and it is, pardon the pun, out of this world! The Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime is a stratospherically cool and novel concept for a timepiece, and one that seems very, very complicated indeed. Essentially, the SpaceTime will not only tell its lucky owners the time, but the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Unsung Heroes: 4 integrated steel sports watches that deserve your attention Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500 or Sep 14, 2019

Unsung Heroes: 4 integrated steel sports watches that deserve your attention

For many of us out there, the dream of one day owning a grail watch, like an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500 or Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A, is going to remain just that … a dream. And the funny part is, it’s got nothing to do with the amount of spondulicks in your bank account! No, … ContinuedThe post Unsung Heroes: 4 integrated steel sports watches that deserve your attention appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Limited Edition Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf Time+Tide
Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Sep 13, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Limited Edition Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf

Hot off the heels of their last limited-run homage piece, the Astrographic, Zodiac has teamed up with the London-based luxury retailer Liberty to give us this – the Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf. Like Zodiac, Liberty has been around for more than a century, and has a brilliant history of providing Londoners, as well … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Limited Edition Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Reveals 2019 Finalists SJX Watches
Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Pink Gold Sep 13, 2019

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Reveals 2019 Finalists

The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is at its starting block: 84 watches have been shortlisted across 14 categories, all vying for one of the year’s awards. This year’s categories include the usual like Men’s Complication, Chronometry, Mechanical Exception, and Challenge (for adorable watches under 4,000 Swiss francs), but also grows to encompass two new categories, Divers and Iconic. But the top prize of the evening remains the Aiguille d’Or, or “golden hand”, which is the best of show. Given the number of independent brands that found success at the 2018 contest – of the 16 prizes, nine were awarded to independents, with Bovet scooping the Aiguille d’Or – the watches in contention this year include a broad spectrum of independent watchmaking, from establishment names like MB&F; to newcomers like Alchemists. The 30-member jury, composed of the industry notables like auctioneer Aurel Bacs, watchmaker Philippe Dufour, Jack Forster of Hodinkee, and also our founder Jiaxian Su, will meet to evaluate the watches and cast their vote by secret ballot in the week before the prize ceremony in November. At end September, the watches will soon go on a world tour, prior to the awards ceremony on November 7 at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva. (The tour calendar is at the end of the article.) Here’s the finalists, by category: Ladies (From left to right, top to bottom) 1. Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Pink Gold and Diamonds 2. Chanel J12 Calibre 12....