Hodinkee
Introducing: Serica Gets On The Shaped Watch Trend With The New Reference 1174 'Parade'
The brand that you know for their tool-oriented watches expands their lineup in a bold, surprising, attractive new way.
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Hodinkee
The brand that you know for their tool-oriented watches expands their lineup in a bold, surprising, attractive new way.
Quill & Pad
You may have heard of a few or more of the following historical people and events: Thomas Mudge, George Graham, John Harrison, the Longitude Prize, Captain James Cook, and the mutiny on the 'HMS Bounty.' However, you are less likely to have heard the name of a horologist who played a pivotal role in all of the above: Larcum Kendall (1719–1790). Come with me on a worldwide adventure involving timekeeping and history.
Hodinkee
Unraveling the knotted threads between our obsessions and how free-falling into the rabbit hole resembles our longing for community and the search for self.
Revolution
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most surprising moment of the fall auction season in Geneva was when the hammer came down on an MoonSwatch at Christie’s for CHF69,300 including fees – exactly the same as a Rolex GMT-Master II “SARU” that sold later in the day. But as is almost always the case with record prices at auction, there was a story behind the price and a method to the madness. The MoonSwatch was the unique “millionth” example conceived specifically for this auction, where all proceeds went to ELA, a French medical charity. The ELA sale was spearheaded by Francois-Henri Pinault, the chief of Kering, the luxury conglomerate that owns Christie’s, and certainly one of the most influential people in the luxury goods business. Sitting in the room and opening the sale was Mr Pinault’s fellow trustee at ELA, Zinedine Zidane, the French footballer better known as Zizou who’s regarded as one of the all-time best players and coaches. Christie’s auctioneer Rahul Kadakia with Zizou. Image – Christie’s Bidding via phone, the winning bidder of the MoonSwatch – which sold for over 150 times the retail price – announced to the room via a Christie’s rep that his winning bid was for “ELA and Zizou”. It was clearly a statement that he or she would have paid up for whatever watch was on sale, regardless if it was plastic or precious metal. It was a good deed done that was no bearing on the MoonSwatch or watches in general. To the moon MoonSwatch aside, the season was pos...
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Revolution
Hodinkee
Second made and first sold, this Tourbillon Souverain is now the most expensive Journe and the most expensive wristwatch by an independent watchmaker.
Revolution
SJX Watches
A storied example of artisanal independent watchmaking, The Oval was the masterpiece by Derek Pratt (1938-2009), perhaps the greatest unknown watchmaker. Pratt began work on the Oval in 1982 as his magnum opus, the ultimate realisation of his aesthetic and technical vision. While his work for Urban Jürgensen is perhaps his best known, Pratt was an independent watchmaker with a diverse repertoire, including working with George Daniels on the co-axial escapement. Amongst his creations was a replica of John Harrison’s H4 marine chronometer. These projects, as well as the fact that the Oval was mostly hand made, meant the pocket watch took some two decades to complete. Although it’s a sizeable watch, the Oval is finely detailed, reflecting the high level of Pratt’s craft and the years he invested in creating the watch from scratch. Beyond its artisanal execution, the Oval also stands out for its technical achievement. Besides a detent escapement, the Oval also contains a horological first – a constant force mechanism integrated within the tourbillon – along with a thermometer, power reserve display, and moon phase on the dial. We took an in-depth look at the Oval in 2021, thanks to its current owner, Dr Helmut Crott. But now as the Oval heads to the auction block at Phillips, it’s worth one last look before it disappears into a collection. A two-decade odyssey A contemporary and friend of George Daniels (1926-2011), Pratt was one of the most talented horologists o...
Revolution
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Monochrome
In a very unexpected move, the Horlogical Brothers known as Tim and Bart Grönefeld are launching a new, more accessible brand aimed at a broader audience. Honouring their father with the very first model, the newly founded Grøne Oldenzaal brand offers the typical Grönefeld style (design-wise at least) at a smidge over 2k euros before […]
Revolution
The independent watchmaking cognoscenti descended onto The Singapore Edition for IamWatch. Here are the watches worn by the movers and shakers.
Monochrome
The other day, we went to Switzerland to film one of the most important and influential watchmakers of the last few decades. It’s not a name that is on everyone’s tongue, but it actually should. Let’s look at this objectively… A watchmaker who created the most complex astronomical watches in times when computer-aided designing and […]
Quill & Pad
The WatchCharts Overall Market Index saw a positive trend in September, rising 0.8% compared to the previous month. The last time we reported a positive trend was for the month of December 2023, when the market likely saw a boost due to the holiday season.
Video
Monochrome
ZRC (Zuccolo Rochet & Cie) isn’t a household name in the dive community like Rolex, Doxa, Blancpain or Omega (or even Seiko, if we cross a few time zones), but it certainly has a place in history. Responding to the French Navy’s request for deep dive watches in 1958, the brand developed the S1 diver […]
Hodinkee
From watches that shouldn't exist (but do) to some hidden gems, we dig through the catalog.
Monochrome
Just a couple of weeks ago, we brought a very interesting Dutch watchmaker to your attention: Fred Dingemans. Through his eponymous brand, dingemans mechanische horloges (Dingemans Mechanical Watches), Fred offers a true slice of artisanal watchmaking, with a lot of work done by one man, by hand. While his three-hander in bronze was already quite […]
Monochrome
If you’re following MONOCHROME, you might have witnessed the rather impressive rise of Yema, moving from a brand making nice, accessible vintage re-editions to now a strong advocate of French watchmaking, developing its own movements. For its latest creation, the Jura-based watchmaker is teaming up with renowned designer Alain Silberstein, bringing this new limited edition […]
Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw is one the most famous watchmakers in the Netherlands, and has gained fame for being possibly the best advocate of astronomical watches – in fact, this has even become the subtitle of the CVDK brand. Since 1974, this genius clock and watchmaker has produced some of the most beautiful and complicated […]
Video
Hodinkee
In a candid interview, Mr. Naito discusses a wide range of ideas, from pricing and fewer limited editions to better bracelets and a possible reevaluation of the brand's "nature-inspired" dials.
Revolution
Revolution
Revolution
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! New Old Stock Royce Here is a nice little vintage Royce that looks to be New Old Stock. The unpolished 34mm stainless steel case has a pleasing rounded design with really nice fancy lugs that feature solid attached bars. As such, you’ll need a nato strap or one that is suited for welded strap bars. The salmon colored dial looks brand new (as it should), with stylized Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9. It has slim leaf hands, with a stylish sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The watch comes with the original Royce hangtag, which is a nice touch. Seller states the watch runs, but no movement picture. View auction here Seiko Bullhead 6138-0049 The Seiko 6138-0049 Bullhead is a great beast of a 1970’s knuckle dragger, but you just have to love this watch. Seiko made two versions, the black and blue, and the brown and gold. This brown and gold dialed version personifies the 1970’s look if you ask me. The huge steel case shows some wear but is unpolished and still shows the original brushed finish and sharp edges. The dial looks original and is in fantastic shape, same with the nicely lume filled hour and minute hands. These are called “Bullhead” because of the 12 o’clock location...
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