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Results for Powermatic 80 (ETA C07.111)

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Hands-On: Laps Leaps into New Territory with the Arche, their First Mechanical Model Worn & Wound
Aug 6, 2026

Hands-On: Laps Leaps into New Territory with the Arche, their First Mechanical Model

What started as a fashion watch brand a decade ago is making a leap into more traditional watchmaking territory. Laps has introduced its first mechanical model, the Arche as part of a new Studio Series. The collection consists of four iterations, two with simple textured dials and two that take on one of classic watchmaking’s key artforms: enamel. The dial is arguably the main focus of nearly all watches. It conveys the most pertinent information and serves as the aesthetic centerpiece. When French designer and art collector Antonin Mercie created Laps in 2016, he took the emphasis on the dial a step further – this would not just be the core focus of the watches but the core focus of the brand. Examples of watches from the Laps “Signature” collection The base of the original Editions models varies slightly but overall carries a vintage aesthetic hailing from the funky eras of 70s and 80s watchmaking. Both the Prima and the Signature cases are rectangular, with the former being slightly smaller and squarer at 28mm by 23mm and the latter slightly larger and more rectangular at 35mm by 26mm. Each is topped off with the option of a leather strap or bracelet whose design is aligned with the retro theme, mimicking a stretch bracelet in texture but presented in a traditional manner with a buckle closure. Powering the models in the Editions series are straightforward, time-only quartz movements. All of this lays the foundation for the star of the show – the dials – whi...

Introducing - The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date, Now in Two-Tone Editions Monochrome
Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date Aug 6, 2026

Introducing - The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date, Now in Two-Tone Editions

Following its global relaunch in 2024 with Patrik Hoffmann at the helm, Favre Leuba retains the spirit of its historical tool watches but with a new focus on extreme wearability. Famous for engineering innovative, well-equipped tool watches, Hoffmann has revisited some of Favre Leuba’s vintage stars in a more contemporary key with slimmer cases and […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: Collective Horology CEO Asher Rapkin And Liberty Justice Center Chairman And CEO Sara Albrecht On Suing Trump Over Tariffs Hodinkee
Armin Strom Czapek Fears Ming Aug 5, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Collective Horology CEO Asher Rapkin And Liberty Justice Center Chairman And CEO Sara Albrecht On Suing Trump Over Tariffs

This week on The Business of Watches, Collective Horology co-founder and Chief Executive Asher Rapkin joins us. He brought his lawyer.  While Collective is a Ventura, California-based retailer of independent watch brands, including Armin Strom, Czapek, Fears, Ming and J.N. Shapiro, Sara Albrecht is the chairman and CEO of The Liberty Justice Center. That's the non-profit litigation firm that led the legal fight successfully challenging President Trump's initial round of tariffs all the way to the Supreme Court of the United States. They won in a surprise decision that ruled the President didn't have the authority to impose levies that increased the cost of importing goods into the U.S., including Swiss-made watches.  The government is now in the process of refunding the approximately $166 billion businesses paid out. Asher Rapkin, co-founder and CEO of Collective Horology in Ventura, California. Of course, the Trump administration found a workaround and immediately slapped on new tariffs and, on July 24, initiated levies of 10% and 12.5% on imported goods, including Swiss-made watches. That's the day that Collective Horology and another importer (dealing in exotic spices), filed a lawsuit against the President and various bodies and individuals in the administration including U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer.  Rapkin explains why his business decided to challenge the tariff laws and take on the President and his administration, while Albrecht lays out the legal...

Casio GWR-B3000 Gravitymaster Pre-Orders Open With New TOUGH MVT.2 WatchRider
Casio GWR-B3000 Gravitymaster Pre-Orders Open Jul 23, 2026

Casio GWR-B3000 Gravitymaster Pre-Orders Open With New TOUGH MVT.2

Casio’s new flagship aviation G-Shock is no longer just a launch announcement. UK pre-orders are now open for the GWR-B3000 Gravitymaster family, introducing a metal-supported structure, sapphire crystal and the first major evolution of Casio’s TOUGH MVT. analogue movement in 18 years. Three versions are entering the runway: the black-and-silver GWR-B3000-1A, the blue GWR-B3000A-2A and the coordinated grey GWR-B3000B-8A. All share the same Japanese-made construction, Tough Solar power, Multiband 6 radio control, Bluetooth connectivity and Triple G Resist protection. The choice is therefore about colour and finishing rather than accepting fewer functions on the least expensive model. UK pre-orders are open now Casio UK lists all three watches for pre-order, with expected delivery in four to six weeks. The GWR-B3000-1A costs £750, the blue GWR-B3000A-2A is £800 and the grey GWR-B3000B-8A reaches £870. Casio’s European pages mark the collection as new for August 2026; published European pricing is €799 for the 1A and €899 for both coloured versions. Official US pricing has not yet been announced. For international context only, conversions of the current British prices are approximately $1,010, $1,075 and $1,165 respectively. Those are currency conversions, not US recommended retail prices, so taxes and Casio’s eventual regional positioning may produce different numbers. ReferenceUK priceEuropean priceApprox. USDGWR-B3000-1A£750€799About $1,010GWR-B3000A-2A...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Inside Lorier Watches' Acquisition With Lorenzo Ortega And Blake Malin Hodinkee
Lorier Jul 22, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Inside Lorier Watches' Acquisition With Lorenzo Ortega And Blake Malin

This week on The Business of Watches, a breaking news story, of sorts. Our friends at Worn & Wound have acquired Lorier Watches. It's a story of success for the New York-based boutique brand that started way back in 2017 with a mission to make vintage-inspired watches, designed to be worn every day, at an approachable price. In a way, it's a tale of too much success. Lorier co-founders, the husband and wife team Lauren Ortega and Lorenzo Ortega, struggled with the rapid growth of the small company, and the inability to meet demand for their products took a toll on the two-person operation. They considered winding up the brand, as it were, but a talk with Blake Malin, the co-founder of the well-established content, retail, and watch event company Worn & Wound, also based in New York, set them on a different path. Lorier founders Lorenzo Ortega (right) and Lauren Ortega (left). Worn & Wound co-founder and CEO Blake Malin. The acquisition of Lorier is the first time Worn & Wound has acquired a watch brand. Malin and Lorenzo Ortega join us to talk about how the deal came about and what's next for both Lorier and Worn & Wound. Though Ortega spent his formative years in Geneva until he was about 18, it's a decidedly American business story in the watch industry. There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so...

Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics] Hodinkee
Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II Jul 17, 2026

Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics]

What We Know Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water (sorry), California-based retailer Topper Jewelers has released a limited edition take on Doxa's recently refreshed SUB 200 T.Graph II. This crispy, white-dialed variant comes fast on the heels of Doxa's own re-issue of its legendary dive chronograph. The name "Great White" obviously references the dial color, but is also a tribute to the Bay Area's notorious offshore aquatic apex predators, Carcharodon carcharias, the great white shark. To refresh your memory, the T.Graph was Doxa's first dive chronograph, originally released in 1969 with three dial color versions—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), and Searambler (silver). Horological historians tend to agree that only 300 of each color were made, making it a rare and coveted watch for vintage collectors and Doxaphiles. While a limited-edition version was released back in 2017, including a solid-gold variant, Doxa finally rewarded fans last month with the non-limited T.Graph II. This new evolution is a faithful interpretation, but updated with a slimmer case, automatic movement, and a new (for the chronograph) colorway—the Caribbean (blue). Now, in limited numbers, comes the further-evolved "Great White" from Doxa retailer Topper, based in Burlingame, California. This isn't Topper's first foray into Doxa limited editions. Two years ago, the company collaborated with the Swiss brand on a "Great White" SUB 300 that sported a pearly white dia...

Roger Dubuis Reimagines the Excalibur as Samurai Art SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Reimagines Jul 17, 2026

Roger Dubuis Reimagines the Excalibur as Samurai Art

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur “The Kabuto Legacy” transforms the brand’s monumental Excalibur case into a showcase for Japanese history and miniature craftsmanship. Thematically similar to the the Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, the samurai-inspired dial centres around a contemporary interpretation of an Edo-period castle with 12 individually hand-engraved pink gold kabuto, each based on the distinctive helmet of a historical warrior. Initial thoughts Watches like the Excalibur Kabuto are not ‘watches’ in the typical sense, and only make sense through an artistic lens. Collectors who spend a lot of time in the spec sheets will likely come away unimpressed, but with only 28 pieces being made, the Excalibur Kabuto represents a sub-segment of haute horlogerie that treats the watch case as a miniature art gallery. While some may be indifferent to the samurai motif, the quality of work — from the hand-engraved helmets on the dial to the laser-engraved precision of the crests in the rotor — is remarkable. Furthermore, the playful minimalism of the Edo castle, which from some angles looks like an enormous faceted sapphire, is an inspired work of miniature architecture. The case is identical to that of the KRT collection. It’s 45 mm and nearly 17 mm thick — height that accommodates a sapphire crystal ring underneath the bezel. This elaborate construction helps flood the miniature sculptures with light and provides a better look at the engraving work. In...

Swatch Debuts MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969 SJX Watches
Omega MoonSwatch Mission Jul 16, 2026

Swatch Debuts MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969

In the run-up to the 57th anniversary of mankind’s first steps on the moon, Swatch has launched the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969, a watch that follows the proven MoonSwatch formula but enhances the value proposition with a substantial amount of 18k MoonShine gold. In fact, the 11 g of 18k gold contained in the dial, crown, and pushers is worth nearly twice the retail price of the watch at today’s spot price. In addition to the historical “OM” designation found at six o’clock, the dial is also engraved “Au 750” denoting its solid gold construction. Initial thoughts The anniversary of the moon landing, which took place July 21, 1969, is an annual reminder of the Omega Speedmaster’s legendary status as ‘the moon watch’. It’s an old story, but it remains a good one. The MoonSwatch leans heavily on this heritage, and the latest iteration is arguably the greatest, borrowing several aesthetic motifs from the so-called “Nixon” Speedmasters that were gifted to American astronauts and government officials — namely the gold dial and black inlay for the hands and dial markers. Substantively, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is much like any other MoonSwatch, with a plastic case that’s a dead ringer for that of the Speedmaster Professional. An ETA quartz chronograph ticks inside, and the battery — now protected by a scratch-resistant cover — is accessible from the case back. That said, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is an atypical Moon...

Introducing: The New Citizen Promaster Dive Hodinkee
Citizen Promaster Dive What We Jul 16, 2026

Introducing: The New Citizen Promaster Dive

What We Know It's summertime, which means it's perfect weather to spend some time near, in, or under the water. While I love a good hyper-overbuilt mechanical watch (and definitely want this one), I've come to realize that the best dive watches are probably the no-fuss, affordable ones. If I'm flying to the Bahamas and want to go on a quick dive, I'm going to grab a Citizen (oh wait, I did). With a bunch of new Citizen Eco-Drive divers (more like Eco-Dive, am I right?) rated to 200m, I figured it was time to share some great new picks. While four watches were just launched in Japan, the U.S. is getting three of them. There's a blue gradient dial with a dark blue stainless steel unidirectional bezel (my personal pick), a black dial with a black bezel, and a white dial with a black bezel and an orange seconds hand (and black printing, of course). That last one feels very James Stacey, if I had to guess. The watches are cased in a super-reasonable 40.6mm by 11.5mm stainless steel case with brushed surfaces and polished chamfers. Inside is the Eco-Drive Caliber E118, which has an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month and 12 months of power on a full light-powered charge. The watches are delivered on BENEBiOL straps, a plant-derived biomass urethane. All three options will be available on the Citizen website in the coming days and weeks as deliveries arrive in their US stock. The retail price is $450, so keep checking their shop to make sure you stay on top of when it's availabl...

Bring a Loupe: A Limited Edition Inter Miami Tudor, A Jaeger 4ATM, A Longines Ultra-Chron Jumbo, And A Pair Of Tudor Rangers Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin 4111 Jul 10, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Limited Edition Inter Miami Tudor, A Jaeger 4ATM, A Longines Ultra-Chron Jumbo, And A Pair Of Tudor Rangers

Happy Friday, Ballers, and I hope everyone's buckled in for what looks to be some excellent football (and, if you were lucky enough to catch the England v Mexico match, you've already seen some of the best ever).  Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Million "Sherpa Cousin" sells on Sunday the 12th, the 18k Omega Constellation ref 2648 sold for €4218 all-in, the Sarpaneva x Moomin went for $8,800, and the Vacheron Constantin 4111 with the 'washed' dial sold for €100,000. Strays It feels like Seiko 6139s are a sort of necessary step in early collecting. They're lovely vintage watches; there are lots of them out there, and, unless you're hankering for a flawless Resist-dialed Pogue, they're fairly reasonable. This week, Goodwill has a blue-dialed 6139-6005, and it's not only in very good shape but also early in the model run, which you can tell from the 'notch' case (the small cutout for the crown) and the early Z bracelet.  Photo courtesy of Goodwill.  If you're on the hunt for vintage steel-cased time-only beauties, this Jaeger-LeCoultre sure seems excellent, ditto this Favre-Leuba Daymatic, or this Movado with its bit of patina, and if those aren't quite your tune, there's this NOS Tissot, serviced in 2026, which, yes, is small (31mm), but I dare you to click that link and not get a little distracted by the watch's pristine condition. Rossini's auction on the 11th is chock-full of goodies, but the ones I kept returning to were this RAID edition Speedmaster (if this ...

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin Adds Two New 34.5mm Overseas Models To The Catalog Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Adds Two New 34.5mm Jul 9, 2026

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin Adds Two New 34.5mm Overseas Models To The Catalog

What We Know This week, Vacheron Constantin added two new 34.5mm Overseas models to the collection. There's a new version in steel with a red dial and a tone-on-tone version in 18k pink gold with a matching gold-toned dial. No, these new additions aren't the most groundbreaking introductions from Vacheron in recent times, but they are quite attractive and do well to flesh out the brand's small collection of mechanical mid-sized Overseas models. The distinct visual cues of the Overseas are all present on these models, with Vacheron's Maltese cross motif prominently shown on the bezel, crown, bracelet, and buckle. Proportions of certain elements like the bezel on this smaller Overseas feel quite thick, thanks to its relative sizing compared to the very compact overall dimensions of the watch, with a diameter of 34.5mm and a thickness of 9.33mm. Water resistance is rated to 150 meters, and there is a screw-down crown. Continuing the appeal of customization across the line, both versions come with three interchangeable straps: a full metal bracelet (with toolless micro-adjust), a rubber strap, and an alligator leather strap. The interchangeable strap options for the red dial Overseas. Though Vacheron is branding this as "a feminine take on sport-chic," the two executions released this week certainly can work on a wide array of wrists, thanks to eye-catching but versatile lacquered and sunray-brushed dials. The red dial of ref. 4600V/200A-H127 stands out, not just in hue, but a...

Is The Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre The Perfect Outlier Dress Watch For Your Collection? Fratello
Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre Jul 1, 2026

Is The Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre The Perfect Outlier Dress Watch For Your Collection?

Frederique Constant’s Moneta line has been received with great applause from the watch community. The formal design with its distinguishing internal reeded ring rubbed many enthusiasts, including me, the right way. Today, I get a chance to go hands-on with the latest edition, the solar-powered Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre. It makes me wonder: is this […] Visit Is The Frederique Constant Moneta Solarmetre The Perfect Outlier Dress Watch For Your Collection? to read the full article.

Chanel’s Chessboard is a Modern Métiers d’Art Masterpiece SJX Watches
Cartier made such items Jun 23, 2026

Chanel’s Chessboard is a Modern Métiers d’Art Masterpiece

Chanel christened its watch collection for the year “Coco Game”, a theme that informs the pixellated video game motifs found on some watches and also the flagship creation that is the endgame as such things go. The Chessboard is self descriptive, but it is much more than an 8×8 board with 32 chess pieces. A one-off creation that is already sold, the Chessboard is impressive by the numbers alone: 1.5 kg of gold, 110 carats of diamonds, and a retail price of over US$4 million. But where is the watch you might ask? There are two: each of the queens is actually a pendant watch with a tiny dial on its base, and the set is delivered with a single chain for the winner to wear a pendant watch. The queen takes the form of Coco Chanel dressed in the brand’s signature tweed suit Initial thoughts I’ve always been a fan of Chanel’s impossibly extravagant objet d’art, which in past years have ranged from a musical automaton clock to a planetarium-clock. This year’s one-off creation trumps them all in scale, complexity, decoration, and of course price. In tangible terms, the Chessboard is clearly a trophy for the home or office, or a game board for a wealthy chess fan. Ridiculously lavish board games and toys have a long history — jewellers like Faberge and Cartier made such items in times past. In fact, some of Faberge’s fabled Imperial Easter Eggs contained surprises that were actually tiny toys. The Chessboard, however, is distinctively 21st century in both material...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Blake Z. Rong Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Fujitsubo Titanium – Jun 18, 2026

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Blake Z. Rong

Our 3 for $5k series is back this week with a new entry from Worn & Wound contributor Blake Z. Rong. Blake is a Brooklyn based writer and while his selections here focus on modern watches, they reflect his personal interest in vintage, time tested designs, but in a playful and spirited way. These are not vintage recreations, necessarily, but reinterpretations of classic ideas, sometimes with a lighthearted twist.  If I could cut my collection down to three watches, I figure that I could someday live the rest of my life a happy man, satisfied only by the essentials and with no horrible combination of discretionary spending and emotional attachment to finite objects to distract me. So far, that has not proven the case. But if a person only needs three watches to truly be fulfilled in any scenario, then here’s what I would do in an alternate realm: three modern watches from brands both known and worthy of being rediscovered, and versatile enough to carry you from the beach to the boardroom. What are watches if not helping us dream of these scenarios?  Citizen Promaster Fujitsubo Titanium – $1,025 The irony of wearing a titanium watch is that it is a tremendously difficult material to work with: not only does it stick to machining tools, according to Citizen, but its discarded shavings also have the tendency to catch fire. And when you’ve made a watch with it, it’s so lightweight that it can feel like you’re wearing a piece of plastic. But that didn’t stop Citize...

The Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 50 Years of the Nautilus SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 50 Years Jun 18, 2026

The Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 50 Years of the Nautilus

The Patek Philippe Museum turns 25 this year, but the Geneva institution has bigger things on its mind. Open now through early next year, 1976 – 2026 Nautilus 50th Anniversary is a thematic exhibition that explores the history of the brand’s emblematic sports watch. The exhibit will showcase key references that have defined the trajectory of the Nautilus, which was designed by Gérald Genta and launched in 1976, at a time when the idea of a steel watch was generally thought to be beneath a brand like Patek Philippe. The success of the Nautilus would ultimately validate the brand’s belief that design and craftsmanship could transcend mere material, and helped accelerate Genta’s storied career as a designer. Naturally, the exhibition will feature each of the four 50th anniversary references released this year including the ref. 5610P. Past visitors will observe the exhibit is located on the museum’s top floor, which has been transformed with a temporary 1970s-inspired makeover to give the Nautilus its proper setting. Exhibition details The exhibition is included with general admission to the Patek Philippe Museum, which is open Tuesday through Friday, 2:00 pm to 6:00 pm, Saturday from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm, and Sunday from 2:00 pm to 6:00 pm. The anniversary exhibit is scheduled to run until early 2027. Timed tickets can be purchased online, and advance reservation is recommended.  

Industry News: Ronda Returns to Mechanical Movements with the Impressive R01 Worn & Wound
Seiko Jun 12, 2026

Industry News: Ronda Returns to Mechanical Movements with the Impressive R01

Typically, not a lot happens in the world of third-party mechanical watch movements. The ETA2824 reigned supreme for decades until Swatch Group stopped openly supplying them, giving way primarily to Sellita, Soprod, and La Joux Perret on the Swiss side, and Miyota and Seiko on the Japanese side. For the most part, the catalogs of those brands stayed relatively unchanged for many years, but now, it appears that there’s a bit of an arms race happening. The days of 42-hour power reserves are over, and brands are now vying for features and specifications once limited to more expensive calibers; to that end, there have been a series of interesting events/releases. First, the COSC announced the creation of the “Excellence Chronometer” standard with a -2/+4 accuracy standard among other considerations. Sellita launched the SW200-2 Power + movements with 65-hour reserves, new gear trains, and other improvements. The CEO of La Joux Perret spoke about the upcoming G-200 caliber, which will feature a 72-hour reserve and antimagnetic properties, on the Hodinkee podcast. And this week, a very exciting new automatic was announced by a surprising source: Ronda. The R150 launched in 2016 Ronda is a well-known Swiss manufacturer that was founded in 1946. Over their 80 years of existence, they have specialized in many things, from component manufacturing to ebauchés and full mechanical movements to, beginning in the 1970s, quartz calibers, which is what they are best known for today....

Bring a Loupe: A Cartier Platinum Pocket Watch, A Gilt Rolex Explorer, An Omega Railmaster, And A Broad Arrow Polerouter Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre ? Have Jun 5, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Cartier Platinum Pocket Watch, A Gilt Rolex Explorer, An Omega Railmaster, And A Broad Arrow Polerouter

June's upon us, everyone, and while technically it's still spring, let's all agree to go ahead and round up to summer right now. You're salivating for beach time, or checking the market for pointers about what to do regarding the SpaceX IPO, or you couldn't care about either, and your full attention is on what seems likely to be a wildly excellent NBA finals. Regardless of where your attention's generally pointed, let's look at some watches together before you're whisked off to full weekend mode. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Universal Geneve Super went for a mere €550, the Movado for CHF 2,600, the Rotary Compressor for £350, while the Rolex Submariner Ref 16800 somehow sold for only $60,000 HKD ($7,655). The Louis Vuitton Monterey II also sold. Strays Photo courtesy FauveParis. No-name skin divers will always get under my skin, and this week there's this sweet-looking Allaine. Or are you after an overwhelmingly 1980s quartz perpetual calendar from Corum? As you wish. How about an extraordinarily clean manual-wind Seamaster dress watch? Get it. Someone, please bid on this and *also* pay once you've won: this Autavia has popped up thrice over the last two months, and certainly one of you has a soft spot for modular chronograph movements that'll lead your favorite watchmaker to curse you, right? A Heuer triple calendar in 14k gold, perhaps? Ta da. A fantastic Jaeger-LeCoultre? Have at it. Finally, I don't know if this Omega Speedmaster 145.022 is actually NOS, but ...

Introducing: Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Models In 36mm And 39mm (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Jun 4, 2026

Introducing: Girard-Perregaux Introduces Four New Laureato Models In 36mm And 39mm (Live Pics)

What We Know Last September, Girard-Perregaux released the Laureato Fifty, a 200-piece limited edition marking the collection's 50th anniversary. Continuing to build on that, the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture has announced four new Laureato references today, in 36mm and 39mm sizes. All four share the same octagonal case and GP4800 movement—the 39mm options are a rose gold-toned 18k dial with Clous de Paris motif and date display, and a deep blue in-house enamel dial over the same pattern. The 36mm gets the same rose gold-toned dial minus the date, and a silver-toned Clous de Paris dial with a gem-set bezel carrying 64 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 0.55 carats. Everything comes on a steel integrated bracelet with a triple-folding clasp and 4mm micro-adjustment. Water resistance is 150 meters. The GP4800, first introduced last year, is an automatic movement running at 4 Hz with a 60-hour power reserve. Its architecture draws from GP's Three Bridges lineage, with the balance bridge crafted in rose gold. All four are available now, with pricing as follows: the 39mm blue enamel is $24,500; the 39mm rose gold-toned dial is $23,100; the 36mm rose gold-toned dial is $23,100; and the 36mm diamond-set is $24,200. What We Think When I covered the Laureato Fifty last October, my main critique was that GP had only offered a grey dial. That's now been addressed, with the brand offering a variety of options. Another improvement worth noting: the two-tone bracelet has be...

Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Jun 4, 2026

Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty

The Girard-Perregaux (GP) Laureato Fifty collection adds four new references in crowd-pleasing configurations. The original 39 mm size is joined by a compact 36 mm option, available with our without diamonds, while a range of expensively made dials are on offer from solid 18k rose gold to deep blue flinqué enamel. The first four permanent members of the Laureato Fifty collection are powered by the brand’s latest automatic calibre, the GP4800, which illustrates GP’s capabilities as a manufacture. Initial thoughts Last year’s launch of the Laureato Fifty felt promising, but it was clearly just an opening act. GP is a brand intent on resurgence, and the Laureato Fifty represents an important part of the brand’s future. In this context, the four new Laureato Fifty references — in 2 sizes and 3 popular colourways — feel somewhat inevitable, though the high level of execution is anything but. Under the leadership of Marc Michel-Amadry GP seems to be building momentum in the right way — by emphasising what makes the brand unique. Specifically, its design icons like the Laureato and Three Gold Bridges, and its capabilities as a manufacture. In a few short months, the brand has delivered in each of these categories. The Laureato was one of the original luxury sports watches with an integrated bracelet, and helped establish the now-familiar format. Today, however, the field is crowded, a fact that invites comparison. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak comes to mind first,...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Studio Underd0g Founder Richard Benc Hodinkee
Ming next - there will Jun 3, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Studio Underd0g Founder Richard Benc

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the man behind one of the more successful new watch brands in recent years, Studio Underd0g. Richard Benc is just 33, and since 2020, he's built his irreverent, approachable-priced, design-driven brand to a significant size, producing about 14,000 watches last year.   Richard Benc (Photo Courtesy Studio Underd0g). And he's done it all, not from Switzerland or Hong Kong, but from the U.K. Benc has grown his business with intent, making strategic investments in his supply chain, including buying full control of the assembly and after-sales service company that builds Studio Underd0g's distinct timepieces.  Studio Underd0g is now the biggest assembler of mechanical watches in the U.K. and isn't only selling watches with drops and collabs, but is building up stock to make more watches available on its website.  Next up for Benc and his brand is a new physical, public, and retail location. The 'D0ghouse' will open in Maidenhead this month and serve as a public showcase for the upstart brand and its operations. It's another big step for the company that comes with its own set of fresh opportunities and challenges. And Benc gives us a tease on what may be coming next - there will be a new 04Series of watches that will take the brand to a place it hasn't been (mechanically) before.  But first, some watch industry business news headlines, including secondary market price rises, executive moves at the big auction houses, an...

Oris Gives Its Artelier Dress Watch a First In-House Movement for 2026 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Gives Jun 2, 2026

Oris Gives Its Artelier Dress Watch a First In-House Movement for 2026

Oris has a habit of saving its strangest ideas for one watch a year. The Hölstein Edition started in 2020 as an annual limited release tied to the brand's June 1 birthday, and it has always leaned into playful reinterpretation. This year the company turned to the Artelier, the dress collection it relaunched a few months ago with mid-century-inspired dials. The result is the Hölstein Edition 2026, a 250-piece run with a few changes that go deeper than the finish.

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” Series Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or May 31, 2026

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” Series

Jaeger-LeCoultre builds on last year’s smash-hit Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” in 18K pink gold with five new models. The simple yet clever addition of an 18K pink gold Milanese mesh bracelet renewed interest in this classic design. By pairing the case and dial with a matching metal bracelet, the Reverso regained its original essence. […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” Series to read the full article.

Dennison x Collectability’s Second Collab Gives Us Four Funky Twists on Its Inaugural Offering Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore May 27, 2026

Dennison x Collectability’s Second Collab Gives Us Four Funky Twists on Its Inaugural Offering

While some brands regularly take the collaborative approach, this hasn’t been the case for Dennison. Its first co-designed model came to us just about a year ago when the Maison first teamed up with Collectability, the brainchild of Patek Philippe expert and horological icon John Reardon. The pair’s initial offering achieved an impressive balance of design language. It combined some clear inspiration from Patek’s Ellipse as well as some of the brand’s lesser-known models with elements of the collection that revived Dennison in the modern era – the A.L.D. – developed by acclaimed watch designer Emmanuel Gueit, whose resume includes the Rolex 1908, Harry Winston Z1, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. The duo has just spun up its second collaboration, available for pre-order for one week only, beginning today through June 3. If you didn’t immediately click over to place an order, and you’re still with me, let’s unpack these latest additions. The new Oblique collection certainly has echoes of the original co-design but with a little bit more edge. The pair’s inaugural offering was relatively classic and timeless whereas the latest interpretations are a bit more modern and sculptural. This time, Dennison and Collectability give us two variations: the bold Enigma dial and the more sober Vector dial. In both iterations, the brands lean further into the funky design language that began emerging in the 1960s with asymmetry being a focus. Here, the familiar ...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christopher Ward CEO Mike France Hodinkee
Christopher Ward CEO Mike France May 20, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christopher Ward CEO Mike France

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the head of what's now the largest U.K.-based watch brand, Christopher Ward. Under the direction of Chief Executive Officer Mike France, the Swiss-made, approachable-priced watchmaker has enjoyed outsized growth in recent years, due in part to popular and surprising releases like its Bel Canto chiming watch and its commitment to keeping prices in check. Photo courtesy Christopher Ward.  Now Christopher Ward, which recently overhauled its core Sealander collection, is eyeing an ambitious retail expansion plan in its biggest market, the United States. France lays out the economics and business case for the brand's unique retail approach, powered by deep community relationships built with customers over the past two decades. The ambitions aren't insignificant. From a handful of showrooms now, the company could have as many as 25 to 30 locations in the U.S. alone within half a decade, the CEO says.  He sees Christopher Ward as a brand with the potential to reach £250 million in total annual sales, up from about £50 million today. France expects to hit £100 million in annual sales within three years. He's also refreshingly candid about the threat that U.S. tariffs posed to the business and how the levies forced it to change the way its watches are shipped to and distributed in the country. Tariffs were also a significant drag on financial results in 2025, but the brand is forecasting a rebound in 2026 if import dutie...

Introducing: De Bethune DB27 “Night Hawk" In Collaboration With EsperLuxe Hodinkee
De Bethune DB27 “Night Hawk May 5, 2026

Introducing: De Bethune DB27 “Night Hawk" In Collaboration With EsperLuxe

What We Know For me, a De Bethune has to take a cue from Miles Davis. It better be "Kind of Blue." Over at EsperLuxe, the indie retailer outside of Boston, it seems like they agree with me. There are a few firsts in the new DB27 "Night Hawk," at least for the DB27 collection. Normally called the "Titan Hawk," it's previously come in a slightly more straightforward package, with concentric "microlight" circles engraved on the dial, the patented articulating lugs, and the crown at 12 o'clock. But there are many features here that the DB27 hasn't had before. For the first time, a titanium flame-blued "Starry Sky" motif appears on the dial, with stars laid out to mark the date and location where EsperLuxe finalized its partnership with De Bethune in 2021. Not new, but a good look, are the printed silver Roman numerals on the sloping middle dial, the printed railroad track, and the 5-minute intervals. The watch features mirror-polished flame-blued titanium hands with silver tips. The case is polished grade 5 titanium, with a midcase engraved in De Bethune's microlight style. But the kicker is the super-cool (again, first time ever) matte-blue titanium short, articulating lugs.  I know that it's weird to go on and on about lugs, but some of you haven't had a chance to try on a De Bethune. Yes, the case is 43mm in diameter, 9mm thick (which is pretty good, considering it has an automatic movement), but with the hinge on the lugs, the lug can vary in range from about 50mm to 47mm...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 30, 2026

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar

A. Lange & Söhne has repeated last year’s bifurcated release format with the launch of the compact, value-oriented Saxonia Annual Calendar alongside the flagship Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. Available in both 18k white and pink gold, the Saxonia Annual Calendar is not a limited edition, but will be made in small numbers as a consequence of the brand’s diverse portfolio and limited output of about 5,000 watches per year. Initial thoughts The Saxonia Annual Calendar was one of the more talked-about watches of the fair, not because it’s particularly novel or exciting, but instead because it gets all the small things right. It looks good on the spec sheet, with nearly perfect dimensions, the brand’s signature big date complication, and an upgraded and well-dressed automatic base calibre. But as good as the Saxonia is on paper, it’s even better up close. The brand’s typical alpha-shaped hands — common to all Lange models — are brilliantly sharp, and the dial text is finely printed. A detail I especially like on the white gold model is the nearly tone-on-tone typography for the ‘Made in Germany’ text, which is something I’d like to see more of from the brand. A new aesthetic detail is an additional facet at the outer end of each hour marker, effectively creating a tiny pyramid, akin to Cote de Paris. This design appears to be a subtle nod to the previous generation of the Saxonia, which featured baton indexes punctuated with gold stu...

In Partnership - Happenings: Join Us For A First Look At The Future Of Gerald Charles In SoHo Hodinkee
Gerald Charles Apr 24, 2026

In Partnership - Happenings: Join Us For A First Look At The Future Of Gerald Charles In SoHo

With the dust finally settling on Watches & Wonders 2026, the conversation shifts from the halls of the Palexpo to the cobblestone streets of SoHo. On May 6, Hodinkee is partnering with Gerald Charles for an exclusive community event at the Watches of Switzerland SoHo showroom. This evening serves as an intimate destination for collectors to go hands-on with the latest novelties from Geneva, offering a rare opportunity to experience the brand's evolution in a localized setting. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar. The highlight of the evening is a thoughtful discussion featuring Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, and Hodinkee's own Deputy Editor, Tim Jeffreys. The two will explore the brand's unique heritage as the final creative chapter of Gérald Genta's career, as well as its strategic vision for the future. It is a deep dive into the "Maestro" DNA, punctuated by cocktails and the chance to be some of the first in the U.S. to handle the latest pieces. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar. Registration:To attend this intimate community event, please RSVP to events@hodinkee.com with your first and last name. If you would like to bring a guest, kindly include their name and email address. A confirmation email will follow to finalize your RSVP. Details:Date & Time:Wednesday, May 6, 20266:00 pm – 8:00 pm ET Location:Watches of Switzerland SoHo60 Greene St, New York, NY 10012