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Type XX Breguet

The 1954 French military flyback chronograph - reborn in-house in 2023.

Insight: What’s Next for the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement? SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement? Jun 27, 2023

Insight: What’s Next for the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement?

In an era of modern and accessible digital technology, the utilitarian role of mechanical timekeepers has inevitably dwindled. Yet, it is still pursued as a luxury of an artform – either of the highest finishing by hand that can’t be performed by machines, or the research and development in making a mechanical timepiece – in particular wristwatches – as accurate as possible.  One of these horological pursuits, to preserve the accuracy of mechanical wristwatches, is the supply of a constant force to the escapement. To isolate the varying torque as a mainspring gradually unwinds, some haute horlogerie watches today incorporate either a fusée-and-chain or a remontoir, which supplies a steady torque to the escapement for stable timekeeping.  However, there is one particularly novel take on constant force released by Girard-Perregaux, in the form of a proprietary escapement. First unveiled as a prototype in SIHH 2008, the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement has a patented, double escape wheel system that is designed from the ground up to inherently have a built-in constant force system, thus eliminating the need of a remontoir or a fusée-and-chain.   Despite being first created 15 years ago, Girard-Perregaux (GP) is still further developing the escapement today, with a new set of patented improvements publicly available – strongly hinting at a revamped model in the near future. These patents make it worth a deep dive into the original Constant Escapement (CE) fr...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Two Very Different EV’s of the Future, an Australian Surfer Discovers a Long-Lost Rolex and the Do’s & Don’ts of Shooting an F1 Race on Film Worn & Wound
Rolex Jun 17, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Two Very Different EV’s of the Future, an Australian Surfer Discovers a Long-Lost Rolex and the Do’s & Don’ts of Shooting an F1 Race on Film

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Brings Their Iconic C111 Prototype Into The Future With The Vision One-Eleven EV Concept Via Mercedes-Benz The Mercedes Benz C111 acted as the car manufacturer’s test bed for risk-taking and game-changing innovation for new technologies including turbo-charged engines, multi-link rear suspensions and the iconic gull-wing doors. This week, Mercedes pays homage to the C111 by bringing the berlinetta-styled 2-door into the future with the Vision One-Eleven EV Concept – a fierce and ultramodern take on the 70’s original. Via Mercedes-Benz Akin to the OG C111, the Vision One-Eleven is not shy with the body color. The EV supercar concept is dressed in a copper-orange shade with glossy black accents along the vented hood and bottom frame. The mid-body is wildly curvaceous and the lower anatomy aggressively displays a frame that is just centimeters off the asphalt. The gradual upward angling of the lower frame transitioning to a boxy posterior adds to the untamed nature of the electric vehicle. Via Mercedes-Benz There’s no shortage of space-...

The All-White Stealth Unimatic x Revolution & The Rake Modello Uno GMT “Arctic Fox” Revolution
Unimatic Dec 28, 2022

The All-White Stealth Unimatic x Revolution & The Rake Modello Uno GMT “Arctic Fox”

Since 2015, Unimatic has become one of the most successful upstarts in the loosely defined microbrand category. Founders Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato have generated a true cult following for their minimalist aesthetic that captures the essence of particular sports watch designs, and in the process creates archetypes for each of their collections. They also […]

Rolex GMT Master 2 - What’s Changed?116710BLNR vs 126710BLNR WatchAdvice
Rolex GMT Master 2 – Feb 10, 2020

Rolex GMT Master 2 - What’s Changed?116710BLNR vs 126710BLNR

In 2019, the well renowned GMT Master II, reference 116710BLNR also known as ‘Batman’ was replaced by the new 126710BLNR model.  The original 116710BLNR grabbed attention as soon as it was released at Baselworld in 2013. The high level of interest in this watch can largely be attributed to its bi-colour ceramic bezel. This model has been and still is a sought-after model that you may be wondering why Rolex have released a renewed model.  Rolex have made some thoughtful changes to the older 116710 BLNR model to ensure that it is up to date technologically and aesthetically.  Bracelet The biggest and the most obvious difference is the bracelet. The oyster bracelet on Ref 116710 BLNR has broad and flat three-piece links with brushed outer links and polished centre links. It’s the most universal bracelet in the oyster collection and was actually introduced in 1930s. This oyster bracelet has a classy yet sporty appearance. The renewed 126710BLNR model has a five-piece link jubilee bracelet which also has brushed outer links and polished centre links. It is visually striking due to the way it shines. It also stands out well when compared with the previous oyster bracelet. Even though the bracelets look different, they’re both made from Oyster steel. Oyster steel is specifically developed by Rolex, it belongs to the 904L steel family which is commonly used in high-technology and in the aerospace and chemical industries. This type of steel is extremely resistant, has an...

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction X SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 Nov 10, 2019

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction X

With the Double Signed theme auction out of the way, here are a few highlights from Phillips’ Geneva watch auction, including a Lange Zeitwerk that might be a value buy, and a steel Rolex Day-Date prototype. Lot 145 – Lange Zeitwerk in rose gold The Zeitwerk is unquestionably a modern classic – notably, it is probably the most reliable digital display watch on the market – and is relatively good value on the secondary market, selling for a chunk off retail. This example is in rose gold, and is complete with all boxes and paperwork. It was first sold in 2011, and obviously wasn’t worn much sine then. The estimate is just 20,000-40,000 Swiss francs. Lot 179 – Patek Philippe ref. 1463 in steel One of the top lots in the sale, this is a ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”, an early water-resistant chronograph by Patek Philippe. But this is in steel, of which only 67 are known, with a two-tone dial, furthering reducing the number known to just 17. The watch is in excellent condition, with a sharply preserved case and original dial, although the dial might have been cleaned in the distant past. The estimate is 300,000-600,000 francs. Lot 209 – Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in yellow gold The ref. 1518 is a landmark, being the first serially produced chronograph with perpetual calendar. This is a good example of the ref. 1518, almost the quintessential version of the model with a yellow gold case. It is clean and in good condition, albeit showing a little bit of age on the dial,...

A Technical Perspective - A Comprehensive Guide to Watch Crystals - History, Types, Advantages, and Disadvantages Monochrome
Dec 9, 2024

A Technical Perspective - A Comprehensive Guide to Watch Crystals - History, Types, Advantages, and Disadvantages

In the world of watches, the crystal is one of the most crucial yet often overlooked components of a timepiece. This thin transparent cover protects the dial from dust, moisture, and external damage while allowing clear visibility of the watch’s timekeeping functions – and, in many modern watches, its movement, too. Over the years, watchmakers […]

Watch Clasps 101: A Guide to the Various Types of Closures Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 31, 2023

Watch Clasps 101: A Guide to the Various Types of Closures

As long as watches have been worn on the wrist (click here if you’re curious about how long that’s actually been), watchmakers have needed to figure out how to keep their straps, and eventually bracelets, securely fastened. Nowadays, with a plethora of strap and bracelet options available to watch wearers, there are also several styles of these closures, many of which have become brand signatures in their own right. From tang buckles to butterflies to trifolds, we cover the gamut here, listing pros and cons for each. Pin/Tang/Ardillon Buckle The simplest type of closure, and one used only on straps, is a pin buckle, aka a tang or ardillon buckle (“ardillon” is a French word that translates to “tongue”). If you’ve ever worn a belt, you’re familiar with the design, though perhaps not the terminology. One end of the strap - which can be either a two-piece, like most leather and rubber straps, or a one-piece, like a cloth or nylon NATO strap - has a series of perforations called adjustment holes along part of its length. The other end terminates in a simple device with a spring bar attached to a U-shaped bracket and a central piece called a mandel (the “pin” or “tongue”). The bracket slides over the other end of the strap while the mandel slips through one of the adjustment holes, and into a notch on the bracket, to fit the strap to the wearer’s wrist and secure it against coming loose. Pros: It’s easy to use and generally comfortable, as there...

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 27, 2022

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide

To a newcomer, deciphering the world of timepieces can be an intimidating endeavor, and identifying the different types of watches presents a particular challenge. What distinguishes, say, a dive watch from a pilot watch, a quartz watch from a mechanical watch, a dual-time watch from a world timer? What are all those subdials and scales on the dial for? Do I need to change the date on my watch, and if so, how often? In this rundown of the various types of watches, we strive to answer the big questions (and/or link to another article that does).  Quartz vs. Mechanical vs. Automatic While watches vary widely in their styles, genres, and capabilities, they all fall into one of two major categories based on the type of movement inside them. Generally, with a few notable exceptions that we’ll touch upon, a watch is either “mechanical” or “quartz.” Mechanical watches further subdivide into two basic types: manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to periodically wind the watch via the crown to keep it working; and automatic (or “self-winding”), in which the movement’s mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight that swings with the natural motions of the wearer’s wrist. On the other hand, a quartz movement (as explained much more thoroughly in this article), replaces the mechanical movement’s traditional mainspring barrel with a small battery whose electrical charge passes via an integrated circuit into an oscillating tuni...

From hooker heists to drive-by thefts: 5 types of watch robbery and how to protect yourself Time+Tide
Jul 30, 2022

From hooker heists to drive-by thefts: 5 types of watch robbery and how to protect yourself

It’s one of the most lamentable watch trends of the moment. No, I’m not talking about purple dials, but the horrific rise in watch robberies. There’s no doubt that consumers are more knowledgeable about their watch’s value than ever before. Sadly, that also means that criminals are becoming equally savvy, too. Watch theft has become … ContinuedThe post From hooker heists to drive-by thefts: 5 types of watch robbery and how to protect yourself appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: There are 3 types of watch wearers, which one are you? Time+Tide
Aug 13, 2018

OPINION: There are 3 types of watch wearers, which one are you?

Editor’s Note: Recently we learned that there are people in the world who buy and wear broken watches. In between all the head shaking, tut-tutting and ‘what’s the watch world coming to’ etc amongst the team, we reached a surprising point. We learned that while none of us falls into this desperate and strange new category, we are, in fact, all … ContinuedThe post OPINION: There are 3 types of watch wearers, which one are you? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 3 perfect Girard-Perregaux Laureatos for 3 types of Australians Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureatos Jun 28, 2018

LIST: 3 perfect Girard-Perregaux Laureatos for 3 types of Australians

Earlier this week, Girard-Perregaux presented their latest and greatest in Sydney. Sadly, Melbourne-based team Time+Tide was not able to attend, but we managed the next best thing - a chat to GP’s man of the moment, Global Marketing and Communications Director, Fabrice Dangeli. Now, Mr Dangeli is a well-travelled man of the world, so rather … ContinuedThe post LIST: 3 perfect Girard-Perregaux Laureatos for 3 types of Australians appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 6 watches for all 6 types of super-villain, just in time for Suicide Squad Time+Tide
Aug 3, 2016

LIST: 6 watches for all 6 types of super-villain, just in time for Suicide Squad

With Suicide Squad in cinemas (and trending poorly on Rotten Tomatoes)  we’ve got bad guys on the brain, and we can’t help noticing that when it comes to Hollywood, there are two distinct trends, the first noted by Empire: “If Marvel has the best superheroes, so the prevailing geek-logic goes, then DC has the coolest villains.” … ContinuedThe post LIST: 6 watches for all 6 types of super-villain, just in time for Suicide Squad appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Century Of Automatic Watch Movements With Fortis And John Harwood Fratello
Fortis Jul 13, 2026

A Century Of Automatic Watch Movements With Fortis And John Harwood

There is a particular type of movement inside almost every mechanical watch you own, and it does something so fundamental to how we experience watchmaking today that it has become entirely invisible. Of course, that is precisely the point: it winds itself. It harvests energy from your wrist as you move through your day, topping […] Visit A Century Of Automatic Watch Movements With Fortis And John Harwood to read the full article.

Hands-On: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm - The Return Of A Vintage Military Legend Hodinkee
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm May 29, 2026

Hands-On: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm - The Return Of A Vintage Military Legend

As the United States of America celebrates 250 years since the signing of the Declaration of Independence this year, reflecting on two and a half centuries of history, Hamilton is also looking back on its past. Instead of the 1770s, however, the Swiss-based watch brand has drawn inspiration from the 1970s and has announced the release of the Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm, a virtually 1:1 recreation of the famed 36mm Hamilton FAPD-5101 Type 1 created as a navigator's watch for the U.S. Air Force in the 1970s. The Hamilton Boutique in Lancaster, PA - formerly the Bowman Technical School for watchmakers. The FAPD-5101 Type 1 variant was produced in September of 1970 and was intended for use by U.S. Air Force personnel during the Vietnam War as a navigator's watch. While Hamilton also produced many other watches for the U.S. Military throughout the 20th Century, this particular piece was unique in that it was slightly larger and therefore more legible than its contemporaries. Due to its modern proportions and rarity, it remains highly prized among vintage watch collectors today. Hamilton's American Roots The launch of the watch was celebrated in Hamilton's ancestral home of Lancaster, Pennsylvania, just ahead of Memorial Day Weekend. Hamilton was founded in 1892 in Lancaster, where a budding watch industry had been struggling for several years to get off the ground. Seeing the need and potential for high-quality watches in the booming railroad industry, a consortium of local ent...

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph in a Rich Chocolate Brown Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Introduces May 7, 2026

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph in a Rich Chocolate Brown

After taking my French lessons in Duolingo for the better part of three years, I’m happy to say that some of those grammar tips are still rolling around in the ol’ noggin when I have to type such names as Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph in Chocolate – hey, if no one else is going to toot my horn, I might as well, right? Now, enough about me. This latest edition from the brand (which, impressively, has been around since 1791) gives the overall appearance of the Laureato model (which, only slightly less impressively, has been around since 1975) a warmer character with a brown hobnail dial, a matching rubber strap, and rose gold details against the slightly colder steel case. The Laureato elements haven’t gone anywhere on this iteration, they’ve just been updated to complement the chocolate tones. The octagonal bezel, crown, and chronograph pushers have all been executed in rose gold. The integrated rubber strap and tonneau-shaped 904L steel case keep the model’s trademark style while working within what Girard-Perregaux has described as “sporty-chic,” a phrase I’m not too fond of, but can’t deny does describe this watch quite well. The real depth and warmth come from the dial itself. Girard-Perregaux uses a brown Clou de Paris hobnail pattern, with matching subdials and rose-gilt baton markers and hands. The rubber strap I briefly mentioned above continues that same Clou de Paris texture, tying the Chocolate colorway together and keeping things in b...

Watches & Wonders: Nomos Introduces the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer in a Classic Colorway Worn & Wound
Nomos Introduces Apr 24, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Nomos Introduces the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer in a Classic Colorway

A year removed from last year’s Watches & Wonders, it’s clear that Nomos had the accessible watch of the show, and maybe of the year, with the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer. Introduced initially in rhodium plated silver and blue dial executions, along with a handful of limited edition colorways that turned out to be incredibly highly sought after, the new Nomos Worldtimer became a bit of a phenomenon among a certain type of watch enthusiast. Over the course of the last year, we’ve seen Nomos return to the Worldtimer a few times with new limited editions, always appearing to sell out quickly. Given the appetite for this watch, it’s no wonder that Nomos would go back to the well a year later to introduce yet another variant. This one, though, immediately feels like the colorway that should have existed all along.  The new Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer in a white silver plated dial is a permanent addition to the collection. And it should be – this is basically the colorway that defined Nomos through their early years, and the period of time where they really grew as an enthusiast driven brand across the larger Watch Internet. This simple silvery white is, for most people, the dial color they imagine in their head when they close their eyes and think of a Nomos. It’s simple, minimal, and very much core to the Nomos brand identity. While they’ve certainly become known in recent years as being more freely experimental with color (to great effect – I own a mult...

Ressence Introduces First Proprietary Movement SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces First Proprietary Movement Apr 7, 2026

Ressence Introduces First Proprietary Movement

Independent watchmaker Ressence unveils the Type 11, powered by a proprietary movement for the first time. The trailblazer of oil-filled mechanical modules, Ressence has so far relied on third-party base movements to power its eccentric creations. The Belgium-based watchmaker has finally taken the next step and developed its own calibre, dubbed the Ressence-Werk RW-01.  Initial thoughts  Ressence watches are instantly recognisable for their inventive and minimalist way of telling the time, using the patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) to put a new spin on the classic time display. Using a clever arrangement of planetary gears powered by a base movement, Ressence has achieved an original functional design that remains unique to this day.  In terms of design, Ressence has an unmistakable, contemporary look, not unlike that of Apple. As a result, partnerships like those with industrial designer Marc Newson feel natural. The concept behind Ressence’s signature time display is the use of clear silicone-based oil which fills the hermetically sealed ROCS module to the crystal. The fluid medium cancels out total internal reflection, leading to the illusion that the turning disks sit right under the crystal itself. In this respect, Ressence dials can at times look like an OLED screen in a smartwatch. The Type 11 continues the signature streamlined minimalism of past Ressence models, but adopts a less complicated display. There are hours, minutes and seconds, arrange...

G-SHOCK and Anti Social Social Club Launch a New Collaborative Capsule Collection Worn & Wound
Feb 20, 2026

G-SHOCK and Anti Social Social Club Launch a New Collaborative Capsule Collection

There’s an old saying that if you wait long enough, eventually everything will just become a G-SHOCK collaboration. Maybe that’s not 100% true, but sometimes it feels that way. Few brands have the breadth of collaborative partners as G-SHOCK. Can you really think of any other entity that would release a product with Wu-Tang Clan and the Surfrider Foundation and a blockchain based open world game? Only G-SHOCK is really capable of this type of reach. It speaks to their huge appeal to collectors across many, many different verticals, and a strong core following among a very specific type of watch lover. The culture around G-SHOCK collecting is completely distinct from any other watch collecting subset, and it’s reflected in the huge variety of their mainline watches as well as limited editions released with their many collaborative partners.  Streetwear brands are perhaps an obvious example of ways that G-SHOCK finds synergy with enthusiasts in other disciplines, and their latest release with Anti Social Social Club is a great example of that strategy. For those who are less familiar with the streetwear world, a brief primer on ASSC might be in order. The LA based brand was founded in 2015 by Andrew Buenaflor, who has explained that the inspiration for the brand and its aesthetic comes from his experiences with mental health struggles. The brand has risen to popularity thanks to being worn by celebrities and many collaborations with other brands, including Rimowa, Hel...

Bad Watch Predictions for 2026 Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jan 6, 2026

Bad Watch Predictions for 2026

Every year at around this time, watch publications like to make predictions about what we’ll see over the course of the next twelve months. Personally, I really enjoy this type of content. It sets the stage for the year in an interesting way, and it also reveals something about whoever is making the prediction. Because at the end of the day, none of us really know anything. We’re all just throwing spaghetti at the wall, hoping some of it will stick.  Here at Worn & Wound we have a truly terrible track record on making predictions about what will come next in the watch industry. If you dig back into our podcast archive and look at our claims, you’ll see that we’ve been very wrong about watches from Tudor, Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and many more brands. Sometimes we’re a bit early – when you make a Pelagos GMT prediction every year, eventually you’re going to be right.  This year, I’m embracing chaos. These predictions are kind of wild and don’t really make any sense. But in the spirit of a world where you can bet on literally anything, I’m giving watch enthusiasts who like long odds something to spin a dream or two on.  Prediction: the tide finally turns on textile straps in a war torn world  Let’s face it, folks: the world is on fire. Watches offer a respite from the insanity for many of us, the same way Sunday night HBO and mom’s meatloaf feel like a warm blanket when things get crazy.  This feels like it might be the time when those lingering ...