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Time+Tide
The roaring Twenties were a decade of epic proportions, lavish beyond measure. These were some of the best watches of the 1920s.The post Watches inspired by the 1920s - 5 watch designs from the ’20s that still roar from the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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This has been a bountiful year for the horologically inclined, and full of surprises. We have gone shopping with the virtual Time+Tide gold credit card, and found what we think might be five of the best watches under $3kUSD in 2020. It is an eclectic selection, from established microbrands to tough divers and a flyweight … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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For many watch enthusiasts, a somewhat paradoxical feeling can begin to set in after collecting for a little while. The more watches you collect, buying and selling different pieces in the pursuit of the perfect collection, the more a quiet voice in the back of your head says, “What if you just have one watch … ContinuedThe post Why the Grand Seiko SBGE253 could be a great one-watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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A dark brooding presence on the wrist is causing infatuation today, with a vast power reserve and the unexpected lightness of high-tech ceramic. The new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic is a futuristic tonneau-shaped timepiece that surprises and assures you in equal measure, with its lightweight tank-like solidity and industrial fascination. A … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Meca-10 movement makes a move into the Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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In a year of great horological heights, Glashütte Original is once again pushing for the summit with the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 limited edition. This comes after a succession of eye-catching 2020 releases, featuring some of the best dials in the business, and fascinating top tier versions of their vintage perfect diver SeaQ, which made … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Editor’s note: In the latest episode of Watch & Chill, we happen on the subject of Royal Oak Concept models for women, and after again seeing the footage of this extraordinary stepped dial sparkle machine, we had to give it its own post, and exploration. Ask the average person what the purpose of a watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Conceived for the 10th anniversary of the partnership between Richard Mille and Spanish tennis champion Rafael Nadal, the RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal is an ultra-light, ultra-exotic, and ultra-expensive mechanical wristwatch. Equipped with a hand-wind movement suspended on a dense network of steel cables within the case, the RM 27-04 has the greatest shock resistance of any Richard Mille wristwatch, or about 12,000 g. And its case is carbon composite, which combined with the skeletonised movement, means it weighs as much as a few sheets of paper. Initial thoughts While the recent RM 72-01 chronograph went in a different direction than usual for Richard Mille – it’s equipped with a new, in-house movement with an unusual, double oscillating pinion construction – the RM 27-04 is very much in keeping with the brand’s spirit. Mr Nadal’s nickname is engraved on the side of the case The RM 27-04 is a more extreme version of what Richard Mille has done before, with more cables, more skeletonisation, and more advanced composites. And it is also US$1 million, give or take. Judged by what the brand does, the RM 27-04 is a successful product in concept and execution. But more broadly speaking, Richard Mille has been all about such watches for several years now, so the RM 27-04 doesn’t feel that exciting or interesting. Strung like a racquet Weighing just 30 g including its strap – equivalent to about six sheets of A4 paper – the RM 27-04 takes the cable-suspension...
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Editor’s note: Occasionally, we’ll throw to members of the team to explain themselves when it comes to their endless watch purchases. And on that note, if you wish to work in this team, you must be endlessly purchasing watches of some kind or another. Zach mentioned a couple of weeks ago that he was one … ContinuedThe post Why I bought the Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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In a tribute to the most expensive car ever produced, we have the Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti La Montre Noire.The post Pack it up, 2020 has its wildest watch. Prepare your eyes for the blackmobile that is the Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti La Montre Noire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Best known as the watch worn by Pierce Brosnan playing James Bond, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M made its debut in 1993. But the blue-on-blue “Bond” model was not the flagship of the line. That distinction went to a chronograph composed of three metals – gold, titanium, and tantalum – an exotic and expensive combination two decades ago. The tri-metal combination (the original was the ref. 2296.80 for anyone curious) made a comeback as a time-only watch for the 25th anniversary of the Seamaster 300 M two years ago. Now, Omega has finally revealed a truer homage to the original, the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum, which stays to the aesthetics of its inspiration but refined to be more contemporary and technically advanced. Initial thoughts The original version of the tri-metal chronograph isn’t the best known variant of the Seamaster – because it was extremely expensive for the period and sold poorly – so when the time-only variant debuted in 2018, the combination of metal was rather novel. The new chronograph feels exactly like that – it is handsome and modern, but like the 1993 original, it is very expensive. In fact, it is a lot more expensive, all things considered. Priced at a little under US$20,000, the new chronograph is significantly more expensive than its steel-and-gold counterparts – by a factor of 50%. While the price tag partially justified by the unusual material combination and good looks, the new Seamaster Chr...
SJX Watches
Established in 2004, Louis Moinet takes its name from a pioneering, 19th century French watchmaker. A contemporary of Abraham-Louis Breguet, Moinet remains less famous than the inventor of the tourbillon, though his recognition got a boost in 2013 when it was discovered that Moinet had invented the chronograph in 1816. Today, the resurrected name focuses on complicated watches that usually feature novel movements and often incorporate uncommon materials. The latest from Louis Moinet – and one of its most complicated watches to date – is the Space Revolution, which is equipped with twin orbiting spaceships as well as twin flying tourbillons. Initial thoughts As astronomical-theme watches go, the Space Revolution is one of the easiest to understand, because it’s not an astronomical complication, but rather an astronomical theme with a generous dose of sci-fi. The twin orbital oscillators are the most impressive element of the movement. While they probably add nothing to its timekeeping, they are complicated to execute and make for quite a mechanical performance. While the theme and technical execution are interesting – but not entirely new – the watch resembles other contemporary complications in that it is big, thick, and mechanically sci-fi in appearance. The complication and form definitely bring to mind the Jacob & Co. Astronomia, which is not a bad thing since the Astronomia is one of the defining watches in the segment of over-the-top complications with mode...
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If you can say one thing about the Longines releases from 2020, it is that they certainly aren’t boring. With interesting new references being released from across Longines’ various collections, as well as the launch of the brand new Longines Spirit collection, it has been a significant year for the Saint-Imier based brand. The Heritage … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: We take a look at 5 of the best Longines watches from 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Shinola is an American luxury design brand that manufactures various products – from timepieces, leather goods, jewellery, and even audio equipment. Founded in 2011, the company operates an in-house watch and leather factory based within the fifth floor of the historic Argonaut Building, where a team of artisans hand assembles timepieces and crafts premium leather straps. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The “I Voted” Shinola Detrola 43mm Limited Edition watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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This year has been a big one for Longines - for a couple of reasons. They have continued down the purist pathway of vintage reissues through their Heritage collection, as well as continuing to build their other enthusiast-favourite families such as the Record and HydroConquest collections. But the biggest news from Longines in 2020 was the … ContinuedThe post The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the 20th century’s most enduring fashion emblems, the mallet-wielding polo player has been synonymous with Ralph Lauren since the 1970s. Found on everything from polo shirts to furniture – which admitted makes it excessively common – the logo now makes its debut on the Ralph Lauren Polo Watch. Because Ralph Lauren’s watch division is run by Guillaume Tetu, cofounder of independent watch brand Hautlence, the Polo Watch is an affordable mechanical watch, rather than a quartz watch with a logo. Automatic and Swiss made, the Polo Watch has the polo player on the dial printed in several layers of lacquer for a more three-dimensional result. Initial thoughts Having grown up in the 1990s when the polo-player shirt was something of a fad, this watch does have some nineties nostalgia to it. And despite appearances to the contrary, it is a proper watch with a solid automatic movement inside. Mr Tetu stated the goal was to make it proper mechanical watch rather than a “fashion” watch, and he succeeded; the Polo Watch appears to be as well put together as other watches in the US$2,000 price segment. It’s executed simply, but sufficiently well. Probably most attention was paid to the polo player on the dial, the visual focus of the watch. The polo player is printed with a good level of detail – Mr Tetu says the figure is meant of have the appeal of a miniature painting – and succeeds in seemingly being on the dial rather than part of its surface. The only sh...
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There are certain experiences we have on a regular basis at Time+Tide that you may not be aware of, or have shared in any way. Yes, even you, hardcore fans. COVID-19 has made it possible for us to bring you in on it. It’s the presentation of the watches. The way we learn about them. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A detailed tour of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 releases with the CEO, Catherine Rénier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Two brands, both brash, bold, loud and cutting edge. Well, OK, not loud in the same sense as a V12 engine, but Hublot is a perfect fit as the watchmaking partner to Ferrari. This time, it is a celebration of Ferrari’s 1000th Grand Prix, a milestone in Formula One’s 70th anniversary year and, yes, it … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Close to 120 years after Abraham-Louis Breguet patented the tourbillon, master watchmaker Alfred Helwig (1886-1974) created a “flying” tourbillon at the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte. The flying tourbillon became somewhat characteristic of Glashütte and lives on in a few very special watches today. Who was Alfred Helwig? Find out here.
![This hour-long Watch & Chill video about the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 starring Eric Ku is essential viewing](https://timeandtidewatches.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/AP2.png)
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There are certain projects that draw you in from the minute they commence. When Michael Friedman, the Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet, and his team floated the idea of a round table on Zoom with collector and watch dealer Eric Ku on the subject of a watch I find insanely compelling – the [Re]master01 … ContinuedThe post This hour-long Watch & Chill video about the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 starring Eric Ku is essential viewing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Once an American watchmaker that was a global giant, Hamilton is today a Swiss brand best known for its value-proposition, vintage-inspired watches – and providing watches for several Hollywood films. Its speciality is exemplified by watches like the Khaki Field Mechanical, a robust, military-style watch that costs less than US$500. Hamilton has just unveiled a new collection of affordable pilot’s watches, the Khaki Aviation Converter. The line up is made up of three watches – time and date, GMT, and chronograph – all equipped with a slide-rule bezel for cockpit calculations and conversions. From left: the base model automatic, the GMT, and the chronograph in two variants Initial thoughts As with the most of the watches in the Khaki collection, the Converter is appealing in design and no doubt solidly, if simply, constructed. While it might not be the most original in design – the slide-rule bezel is synonymous with Breitling’s Navitimer but used by many brands – the Converter is strong value. Starting at US$995 for the automatic and rising to US$2,145 for chronograph, the collection is a good entry into watches featuring a slide-rule bezel. The bezel features double-row knurling for good grip The generic design aside, it is heartening to see that attention has been paid to the details. With the large, luminous hands and contrasting colours, legibility appears good. The movements are visible through the case back, something that can be captivating for a beg...
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It’s been a great year for new watches, and one of the biggest contributors to this slew of attractive wristwatches is TAG Heuer, who continue their run of strong releases in 2020. The latest release from the La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker is the TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, adding another feather to the Carrera cap after the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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It cannot be refuted how much Switzerland has influenced horology and the luxury watch industry at large. As a result, designs across brands can seem familiar when they all draw from the same well of inspiration and technique. Bulgari, however, continues to stand out from the pack, blending its Swiss watchmaking know-how with its Italian … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties show the “jeweller of time” in absolutely top form appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale stays true to the military watch from which it draws its inspiration, while meeting today’s aesthetic and technical requirements.
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The Apple Watch has been a point of contention with watch collectors since its debut in April of 2015. When the dust settles from the rants and snobbery, one fact becomes clear – the Apple Watch is the most complicated piece of wristwear for the dollar in the entire world. The Apple Watch Series 6 … ContinuedThe post The 5 best new features of the new Apple Watch Series 6, including panda dials and GMT faces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Urwerk has just revealed the next generation of its flagship wristwatch – the UR-220 “Falcon Project”. Retaining the same case shape and signature satellite-cube hour display as its predecessor, the UR-210, the “Falcon Project” is nonetheless an entirely different watch. The UR-220 is powered by a newly-developed movement that hand-wound, instead of automatic as before, and in a first for the brand, the case is made of carbon composite, matched with a rubber-carbon composite strap. Initial thoughts A landmark in avant-garde independent watchmaking for its three-dimensional wandering hours, the UR-201 evolved into the UR-203 and then the UR-210. The new UR-220 is an incremental improvement in the same vein, though a substantial one. I had hoped for a brand-new time display to succeed the satellite-cube indicator, but that is perhaps something for the distant future. Even though the UR-220 retains the same general aesthetic on the front, it is fundamentally different mechanically. The movement has been substantially reengineered – the base remains the Zenith Elite calibre in the UR-210 but now minus automatic mechanism – and now incorporates new functions like the cylindrical service indicator. It also sees the addition of a split power-reserve display, which Urwerk says was a complex mechanism requiring 83 parts. While that may be true, it feels unnecessary, except to give the face a symmetrical layout. But one of the most significant changes is the case mate...
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If you’re a motoring enthusiast, you know that the glory is in the details. Few vehicle manufacturers latched onto this ethos as much as Italian companies did in the ’60s and ’70s, designing breathtaking, voluptuous bodywork, with the most luxurious interior touches. Whether it was seats, shift knobs, or the instrument cluster, everything had to … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The MAALS Giri Ventiquattro is the quirkiest and most creative automotive related watch we’ve seen this year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Undone are reaching a point of ubiquity in the microbrand world where it is probably prudent to have tried one on the wrist. With, of course, one prevailing question in mind – how could these watches deliver on their looks? We ordered a couple in. Because, somehow Undone seem able to keep up a huge … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the Undone Vintage Killy actually good? How could it be for under $500? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Bubble wrap was originally devised as a form of three-dimensional wallpaper. The modern treadmill was invented to harness the muscle power of idle prisoners in order to mill grain. Frisbees were created by a Connecticut pie company as a dish for their wares. Fascinating facts aside, the point here is that many things are designed … ContinuedThe post Sex toys, murder victims and cocaine: the dark side of the Apple Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Rolex gives the people what they want, at a time they need it most: The 2020 Oyster Perpetual watches in five different sizes and a plethora of dial colors.
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Now that Rolex has released watches and ended that dreadful rumour that they were sitting 2020 out, the important work begins. Nicknaming them. The one that has perhaps caused the most contention, is this one, the Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold. We’re going to tell you everything you need to know about it … ContinuedThe post What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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