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Fratello
Every year at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva, the watch world comes together to celebrate the best horological creations it has to offer. This year marks the 24th GPHG awards ceremony, and many impressive timepieces are in the running. We looked at the nominated watches in the different categories and picked our favorites. Whether they will […] Visit Our Favorite Nominated Watches From The GPHG 2024 to read the full article.
Fratello
During Geneva Watch Days 2024, we had the opportunity to visit Lederer. The brand focuses on highly technical escapements, which are made by Bernhard Lederer. The new Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer stood out among the various timepieces we saw due to its impressive movement and testing schedule. My colleague Dave Sergeant and I paled […] Visit Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe has just revealed its unique creation to benefit Children Action, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A. Slated to be sold at auction with all proceeds going to the Geneva charity, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A is entirely stainless steel and entirely engraved. The engraved Nautilus is the latest one-off wristwatch Patek Philippe has created for the charity founded by Swiss financier Bernard Sabrier that helps disadvantaged children. Past watches include the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium and last year’s ref. 5270T in titanium with a green dial that sold for almost CHF10 million. The case, bezel, bracelet, and case back are hand engraved with a “Maori-inspired” motif that’s matched with a dark grey dial. While aftermarket engraving has been applied to various Nautilus models in the past, this is the first factory-original specimen decorated in this manner. Patek Philippe’s catalogue does include several complicated models decorated with engraving, most famously the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002, but they all complicated and in precious metal. This is the first and only Nautilus (or sports watch of any sort) with an engraved case, and also the only steel model with engraving. The watch is accompanied by a pair of matching cufflinks in engraved steel, which are equally unique as Patek Philippe ordinarily only sells gold cufflinks. The matching cufflinks ref. 205.9057A-010 The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A will be...
SJX Watches
Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction includes Treasures of Time, a small but impressive collection of watches consigned by a European gentleman of evidently sophisticated taste. While the most valuable of the 31 lots in the collection is a first-series ref. 2499 in pink gold, the most striking watch is arguably this Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series with a glossy black dial featuring Breguet numerals. Only six examples of the ref. 2499 are known to have a black dial, and this is one of them. The black dial with Breguet numerals gives the watch tremendous appeal and presence on the wrist. Beautiful as it is, however, this ref. 2499 is not absolute perfect from a historical perspective as the black dial was added long after the watch was made. The watch was originally sold by Patek Philippe in 1964, probably with the typical silver dial, and it gained this black dial sometime in the 1980s. According to its well documented history, the owner of the watch in the 1980s was an important enough collector that when he asked for a black dial with Breguet numerals, Patek Philippe said yes. The dial was thus produced by Stern Frères and installed in the watch. It’s worth noting that most of the six known ref. 2499s with a black dial have a similar history in that the black dials were subsequent additions. Though it’s clearly not a vintage dial, Stern Frères executed it well. The dial is finished with a glossy black lacquer and gold powder print, while the indices are applie...
Fratello
During Geneva Watch Days 2024, Gerald Charles announced the exclusive Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 created in collaboration with Italian motorcycle manufacturer Ducati. The watch celebrates the 30th anniversary of the legendary Ducati 916 motorcycle. It features Gerald Charles’s well-known Maestro case with a ruby-red vulcanized rubber strap for the occasion. Gerald Charles Maestro […] Visit Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 to read the full article.
Fratello
You’re right; this isn’t the recently introduced two-hand Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface in its almost-true-to-1931 size. This is “only” the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds version that the brand added to its collection during last year’s edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva. However, it still feels quite new, especially next to its blue, red, […] Visit Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Is A Truly Modernized Classic to read the full article.
Fratello
I am a big fan of the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition,” but the Black Bay Chrono? Not so much. Neither the black and white versions nor the steel and gold model ever struck a chord with me. And the pink version? Well, once I saw it on a wrist in Geneva, it made […] Visit Chasing My Doubts And Blues Away With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Zodiac adds some colour and flair to its Super Sea Wolf with new lapis lazuli and malachite dials in a limited run of 300. The post Zodiac confirms the stone trend with the Super Sea Wolf in malachite and lapis lazuli appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
My Geneva Watch Days meeting with Ming Thein was easily one of my favorites of that whirlwind week. It was one of those hours where you’re presented with watch, after watch, after watch, and you kind of can’t help but get lost in all of the cool stuff you’re seeing. Ming was incredibly kind to pull out watches that have been out (and sold out) for years, just so I could get a look at random pieces here and there from throughout the brand’s history that I may have missed. Seeing the full scope of the brand, though, is important in understanding the newest piece, one that I saw under embargo in that meeting, that Ming is incredibly proud of. The 37.02 Minimalist is not the flashiest or most expensive Ming, but it feels like a watch that sees the brand entering a new and exciting phase. According to the brand, the 37.02 is the first watch in the Ming catalog to be designed, engineered, and managed by Horologer Ming SA, the brand’s new Swiss entity. Horologer Ming SA was created in an effort to streamline and internalize Ming’s complex engineering and production processes while maintaining as much control as possible over the supply chain. This, ultimately, is what the brand hopes will lead to the shorter lead times that their collectors (and would-be collectors) have been asking for for years. That’s exemplified nicely in the 37.02, a watch that leans on core Ming design characteristics that have been developed since the brand’s founding, while also pushin...
Fratello
We’ve kept our collective lips zipped about the new Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion after seeing it during Geneva Watch Days 2024. Now it’s ready to debut in a choice of two case finishes. The UR-150 Scorpion hosts a new movement and an enhanced complication. As always with Urwerk, it’s a feast for the eyes! During our […] Visit Stung By The New Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion! to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
One of the most interesting new watches (and new brands) to surface at Geneva Watch Days this year was the Albishorn Maxigraph, made in collaboration with Massena LAB. Now, just a few months after their debut, Albishorn is back with their second effort, the Type 10. This might seem like a rapid pace for a brand to be moving at, but once you understand Albishorn’s backstory, it begins to make a little more sense. The brand is the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet, a watch industry veteran who is currently Director of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita. There are probably few individuals in the watch space better positioned to make a quick start than Sébastien, and after chatting with him briefly about his brand and his plans for it at Geneva Watch Days, it’s no surprise to see the Type 10 surface now, and it will be even less of a surprise to know that Sébastien has a an even longer term release roadmap planned out well in advance. The conceit of Albishorn, you’ll likely remember, is that of a brand that creates “vintage watches that never existed.” These are not vintage reissues, or even inspired, necessarily, by actual vintage watches. Rather, the watches that will make up the Albishorn collection will exist as thought experiments, imagining parallel histories in which a watch like the Type 10 or the Maxigraph could have been designed, but weren’t. It’s a subtle but important twist on the notion of a vintage inspired watch, and one that, I think, shoul...
Fratello
Even if I do favor the cool expressions of indie brands, the majority of my watches are traditional. But my €2K Otsuka Lotec got the strongest reaction I’ve ever seen at Geneva Watch Days this year. As usual, I was trying to wear an inoffensive but interesting watch. I didn’t want it to clash with […] Visit Multiple Displays: Are They The Coolest Thing Since Tourbillons? - Examples From MB&F;, Vianney Halter, Cartier, And More to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Clement Meynier, an engineer, was fascinated by the automotive and horological world, which led him to enroll in a watchmaking training center in Geneva. Six years ago, he established his watch brand called Depancel, a name derived from a combination of three French car manufacturers: Delage, Panhard, and Facel. He aims to create watches that embody the same philosophies and creative freedom as those represented by these historic brands. Since its beginning, they have also established strong connections with the motorsport world. This includes participating in events such as the Rétromobile Paris and Epoqu’Auto Lyon and serving as the Official Sponsor of GPX Racing. Most recently, the company has partnered with the Masters Historic Championship at Silverstone in the UK. New for 2024, Depancel is updating its Allure watch with a sleeker and more refined 36mm stainless steel case. The lug-to-lug tip measurement is only 42.8mm, and the overall thickness is just 10.95mm, making it suitable for any gender or wrist size. The cushion case design of this watch is inspired by the 1970s, and it is made almost entirely of brushed steel, with the bezel being the only part that is mirror-polished. The short angular lugs and the shape of the end links give the appearance of an integrated bracelet, even though it is not. This design allows the watch to resemble an integrated bracelet sports watch, which is currently very popular while allowing you to pair it with your preferred straps...
SJX Watches
The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago. The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet. The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial. Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial a...
Worn & Wound
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available to consult with you and answer any questions. In addition, all these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available to consult with you and answer any questions. In addition, all these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post An Adventure Watch, Donuts ADPT Style, A Three Mode Torch And A Secret Deal appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
I’d be hard-pressed to name a watch more iterated upon in the last few years than Zodiac’s Sea Wolf. The retro-inspired diver has been at the heart of a true brand renaissance and was at the forefront of the vintage revival movement that has so characterized the watch world over the last decade. Today, Zodiac is looking back to one of its earliest dive watches with the new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691. There is, as with most things watch-related and pre-internet, some debate as to the initial launch date of the Zodiac Sea Wolf, but regardless of the date, there’s no doubt that Zodiac released the Sea Wolf as part of the first wave of dive watches back in the 1950s, but while watches like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner, and Omega Seamaster 300 soared (or dove), the Sea Wolf fell into the background - obscured to all but the most devoted watch enthusiasts alongside other early generation dive watches like the Eterna Kon-Tiki and Enicar Sherpa-Dive. By the time I got into watches in the early 2010s, the Zodiac Sea Wolf was one of the great secrets of the enthusiast world. Great examples could be had for a few hundred bucks, so for not much money, you could have a great-looking vintage dive watch with some real history. That all started to change when Zodiac, under the larger umbrella of Fossil Group, revived the Sea Wolf in 2015. The Zodiac Sea Wolf was immediately brought to the center of the horological world and has continued to stay relevant in t...
Time+Tide
Panerai's latest collection is dedicated to the US Navy SEALs, showcasing its mission to create tough, functional tool watches.The post Panerai honours the US Navy SEALs with its new desert camo collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
There are a handful of constants in the watch world that are truly worth celebrating: the annual crush of people on Geneva each spring for Watches & Wonders, the annual debate over whether a “summer watch” is a thing, and that first comment on any IG post that begs a watch to be a millimeter or two smaller. Like clockwork (pardon the pun) you can count on these things, year in and year out, and there’s comfort in that. Another reliable watch industry trope comes to us on a regular basis from Seiko in the form of the Cocktail Time limited edition, a tradition that began with a watch that is a true enthusiast icon, and now stands as a running series of just plain good dress watches that Seiko is somehow able to keep at a remarkably affordable price point. The legend of the Cocktail Time really begins in earnest with the SARB065, a Japanese domestic market release that caught on with collectors in an earlier era of watch enthusiasm (the early 2010s) when message boards ruled the day. This particular watch is one that I can remember owning years ago and also being among the chorus of internet commenters recommending it to new enthusiasts when the inevitable question of “what dress watch under $XXX should I buy?” would come up. The new Cocktail Time watches, references SRPK93 and SRE015, are said to be inspired by the city of Tokyo at night, and the “Night-time Tokyo” cocktail created by STAR BAR owner Hisashi Kishi. Kishi is a celebrated creator of craft cockta...
Worn & Wound
Panerai has announced a quartet of watches made in partnership with the U.S. NAVY SEALS, a capsule collection meant to highlight the brand’s mission of crafting reliable, purpose driven watches. All of the models share an aesthetic link through the use of camo patterns and dial effects and are based on collector favorite references from the Submersible collection. In a catalog filled with burly, oversized watches, the Submersible line is perhaps the most outwardly sporty, reflecting a more contemporary approach to divers, chronographs, and GMTs than you might find in the brand’s more heritage focused lines. The first model to receive the Navy Seals treatment is the Submersible QuarantaQuattro NAVY SEALS PAM01518. As the name suggests, this one is based on their stainless steel 44mm Submersible. Instead of their regular lume application, this one features sand-colored SuperLuminova on the hands, markers, and lume pip on the bezel. It is equipped with the Panerai P.900 caliber in-house automatic movement, which operates at 28,800 beats per hour and boasts a substantial 3-day power reserve. “NAVY SEALS” is displayed on the dégradé black to anthracite dial at 6 o’clock. When the watch is flipped over, a beautifully engraved commemoration of the NAVY’s special forces team is revealed. It is rated for water resistance up to 300 meters. The second model is the Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT NAVY SEALS Carbotech PAM01513. Similar to the previous model, this one is b...
Worn & Wound
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post An Out of This World Hamilton, Collection Protection, Elegant EDC, and Lasering in on a Great Deal appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Continuing the evolution and growth of Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the event will see new additions next year, with Bulgari coming on board as a major exhibitor, along with a half dozen independent brands, including Christiaan van der Klaauw, Kross Studio, and HYT. Bulgari will then become the second major jewellery to show at the event, after Cartier, which historically dominated the Geneva fair when it was still known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). WWG was essentially a renamed SIHH after the demise of Baselworld, and Cartier retained its most-favoured status at the event even after the transition to WWG in 2020. As WWG has evolved, however, the balance of power has shifted, as reflected by the recent additions to the event’s governing board. While Cartier and its parent Richemont once had half the seats on the board, the pair now account for just two seats on the expanded, seven-member board, which now includes LVMH, the French luxury group that owns Bulgari. The last SIHH ever that took place in 2019 Indies and youth The addition of six more independent brands to WWG add to its diversity, with a majority of the exhibitors now being small and tiny independent brands. But as was the case with Baselworld before, the independent brands participating are a mixed bad of the good, the bad, and the ugly, which is one reason why some established independent brands are doing their own thing outside the fair – and which ironically was the reason SIH...
Fratello
As always, Geneva Watch Days this year showcased many great watches to discover. One of the highlights for quite a few people was the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold. The second timepiece from the revived Daniel Roth brand builds on the first release from last year. As I explained in the watch’s introduction article, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Beautiful And Stylish Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold to read the full article.
Fratello
We visited Geneva Watch Days a few weeks ago, and Breguet was one of the brands exhibiting that week. In its beautiful boutique on the famous Rue du Rhône, Breguet showed us not only the new Type XX with steel bracelets but also (under strict embargo) this new gold Type XX Chronographe 2067. And now […] Visit Hands-On With The Rose Gold Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Unlike the niche-like fairs in Geneva, the Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair (HKCWF) located in the world’s second largest watch exporter after Switzerland, drives the energy to the next level. It focuses not only on watches of all types, from mechanicals to smart, but also on components, fashion, trade and commerce. Marton Radkai reports his impressions of the fair.
Fratello
I have never mastered packing light, which bit me during Geneva Watch Days 2024. I carried a relatively heavy backpack with camera gear, a video kit, and a daily swag collection. That’s not normally an issue, but the heat and humidity in Geneva were no joke. Then, my colleague Dave Sergeant took me on a […] Visit Hands-On With The Urwerk EMC SR-71 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Moving from meeting to meeting at Geneva Watch Days, it’s easy to get lost in the opulent, luxurious novelties. But when you meet with Armin Strom, you’re brought back to a kind of pure watch nerdery that transcends the luxurious surroundings of shows like this. Armin Strom, even while producing watches that I think are objectively great looking, is all about mechanical innovation. There isn’t a watch in their collection that doesn’t have a novel mechanical trick up its sleeve. The Gravity Equal Force that Zach looked at recently is a great example. It has all the aesthetic and design trappings of what we think of as today’s modern high end indie watchmaking, but the real appeal lies in the watchmaking itself. It’s an important distinction that most enthusiasts understand intrinsically – some watches and brands just have a laser focus on engineering, and that’s sort of what sets Armin Strom apart. The brand’s big Geneva Watch Days release is, simply put, a showstopper, and perhaps the most fascinating watch of the week. It’s certainly a significant horological accomplishment. The Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition takes Armin Strom’s already unique take on the resonance concept and shrinks it down to an almost impossible to believe size in a watch that takes a completely novel approach to timekeeping and provides a great deal of practical functionality to make it downright approachable. It also just happens to be a stunning piece of horological a...
Fratello
Our schedules were full at Geneva Watch Days 2024, but one of the most anticipated sessions was a late-afternoon meeting with Biver. We knew the young brand had a secret new release on the way, but details were scarce. The team, including Pierre Biver, showed us the new Biver Automatique line comprised of four references. […] Visit A Perfect Sequel - The New Biver Automatique Dials It Up to read the full article.
Fratello
Imagine taking a €500 watch and giving it to the Artisans de Genève workshop to create something truly unique. That’s sort of what happened to one beaten and forgotten Prim Sport watch, which I received as a Christmas gift from my beloved watchmaker Tomas Sinal in 2019. You have read about Tomas Sinal quite often […] Visit #TBT A Legendary Czech Prim Sport Made Into A Unique Timepiece to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Earlier this spring, when the Worn & Wound team was in Switzerland for Watches & Wonders, we had a somewhat impromptu meeting with the Holthinrichs team at a very pleasant but nondescript Geneva coffee shop, somewhat off the beaten path of watch fair hysteria that grips the city during show season. It was there that we got our first look at the Signature Collection, a major shift in strategy for the brand, now planning to offer watches with a familiarly intricate case design but at a much lower price point than previous collections, thanks to new manufacturing partnerships and a retreat from 3D printing, a process that simply became to expensive as the brand’s designs became more complex. Founder Michiel Holthinrichs also told us about an ambitious new project during this meeting, the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that sits squarely in the haute horlogerie space. At that last meeting, Michiel only had renders of the Ornament Nouveau to show us on his phone, and some crude 3D printed prototype cases (in plastic) of the Signature Collection. Just a few months later, I sat down with Michiel and his team once again, at that same coffee shop, and was able to lay my hands on real watches that were every bit as impressive as I had hoped they’d be. It was a particular treat to see the Ornament Nouveau, a watch that the team is immensely proud of. A quick caveat – we’re still dealing with prototypes here in the case of the Signature Collection pieces. The team had hoped to be...
Worn & Wound
One of the things I will absolutely never tire of when it comes to attending watch shows like Watches & Wonders and Geneva Watch Days is the opportunity to handle watches that would be simply impossible to view at any other time. These events are important for networking purposes and to see and learn about new releases from mass market brands as early as possible so we can share them with our readers, but let’s be honest: even the “rare” watches from brands that are part of the big luxury groups are relatively easy to see if you’re in New York City and connected to the watch media or collector world. But there are some watches that when they’re brought out, you understand immediately that you’re probably getting your one, last look. That’s the impression I got at my Girard-Perregaux meeting when they showed me the La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey. I saw lots of cool stuff over three very busy and sweaty days taking meetings in the Beau Rivage and other hotels that lack American style air conditioning during Geneva Watch Days, but if you asked me to narrow things down and pick just one watch that is simply the most beautiful object I saw during my time there, the Esmerelda gets my vote. Beauty, as we know, is in the eye of the beholder, so I won’t speak in absolute terms here. It would be perfectly reasonable to prefer the Garrick S3 or the Armin Strom Dual Time Resonance, or virtually any number of other great watches. But the Esmerelda ...
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