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Results for Lange Pour le Mérite Series

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Review: Neobrutalist Horology & the Kollokium Projekt 01 Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 29, 2024

Review: Neobrutalist Horology & the Kollokium Projekt 01

About 15 years ago I came across a brand out of the Netherlands called d.m.h. which was, in reality, a single person by the name of Fred Dingemans, working out of a shed in his backyard. His creations were raw and slightly impractical, but they were also a pure expression of creativity, and unwaveringly original. These watches were captivating at a glance, showcasing a similar level of creative fidelity to what we were seeing from the likes of Urwerk and MB&F; at the time. This is a quality sorely taken for granted these days, with most of the newcomers wisely choosing to play it safe with practical, conventionally attractive creations that can go anywhere, and do anything.  I have a well-documented love of practical tool watches that can go anywhere and do anything, but I often lament the homogeneous nature of watch design that this trend has brought us to. Truly novel expressions are a rare sight these days, but there has been exactly one to cross my radar over the past year that has brought a similar feeling to seeing a d.m.h. watch all those years ago, and that is the kollokium projekt 01.  My first glimpse of kollokium came when I spotted one on the wrist of one of the co-founders while attending the Dubai Watch Week events of 2023. This individual, uncoincidentally, is also responsible for the avant-garde creations coming out of Louis Errard these days. His name is Manuel Emch, and he is one of three men (the others being Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi) behind koll...

Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Fratello
De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Oct 29, 2024

Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

Today, we’ll briefly examine the new De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, a thin titanium watch with a visible movement. Of course, it uses the brand’s characteristic spring-loaded, floating lugs that hug the wrist. It’s a lovely piece worth checking out! We spent time with De Bethune at Geneva Watch Days 2024 and saw several […] Visit Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon to read the full article.

The New Berneron Mirage 34 - My Favorite Watch Of 2024 Fratello
Berneron Oct 25, 2024

The New Berneron Mirage 34 - My Favorite Watch Of 2024

The new Berneron Mirage 34 joins last year’s 38mm models in the small brand’s growing lineup. As we’ll see, these aren’t simply downsized editions. Each model showcases a stone dial and a new caliber. Hint: these are my favorite watches of this year so far. Sylvain Berneron is the name behind the eponymous brand he […] Visit The New Berneron Mirage 34 - My Favorite Watch Of 2024 to read the full article.

Introducing – The Sophisticated Platinum & Black Enamel Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique 7787 Monochrome
Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique Oct 24, 2024

Introducing – The Sophisticated Platinum & Black Enamel Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique 7787

Breguet‘s Classique collection distils the essence of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s watchmaking spirit. With its pure, refined lines, the Classique is home to a wide variety of models sharing many of Breguet’s ‘unmistakable signs’. Breguet expands the collection with a pair of extremely elegant platinum models with inky black Grand Feu enamel dials. The candidates for this […]

Affordable Seiko Sports Duo Exclusively for SE Asia SJX Watches
Seiko Sports Duo Exclusively for SE Asia Seiko Oct 22, 2024

Affordable Seiko Sports Duo Exclusively for SE Asia

Seiko has just announced a pair of regional exclusives for its longtime distributor in Southeast Asia, the Seiko 5 Sports SSK043K1 and Prospex Speedtimer SSC951P1 Thong Sia Group Editions. Available only in Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, and Brunei, the Thong Sia Group (TSG) limited editions are inspired by basketball, hence the salmon dials with black accents that echo the colour of the balls. The solar-powered Speedtimer chronograph Initial thoughts Seiko produces some of the best offerings in the affordable price segment, and the TSG duo demonstrate that amply with strong price-performance ratios. The Seiko 5 Sports, for instance, is an automatic with second time zone for 654 Singapore dollars, or about US$500. While the basketball link is a bit of a stretch, the metallic-finish copper (or “salmon”) dials are appealing. Though the shade is popular, the colour is less common in affordable sports watches in this price range, making this pair a little more interesting. The Seiko 5 Sports with a GMT function A handy travel watch The TSG edition is based on the Seiko 5 Sports GMT, which is basically a diver-style watch with a second time zone function. It has a stainless steel case that is 42.5 mm in diameter and 13.6 mm high. Water resistant to 100 m, the case is satin-brushed on top with mirror-polished bevels on the side of the lugs. In traditional Seiko 5 style, it has the crown positioned at four o’clock, which was originally conceived to indicate the w...

Hands-On: The Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary Fratello
Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Oct 20, 2024

Hands-On: The Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

Today, we’ll examine the Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary limited edition. This is the third hands-on review of these special celebration models. The Navitimer is arguably the most famous Breitling chronograph, meaning this piece had better be good! Thus far, we’ve gone hands-on with the Super Chronomat and Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary […] Visit Hands-On: The Breitling Navitimer Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary to read the full article.

Paulin Introduces the new Modul D and E Worn & Wound
Oct 18, 2024

Paulin Introduces the new Modul D and E

While it’s probably apocryphal, Pablo Picasso was once quoted as saying, “Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.” I was reminded of this quote when I was introduced to the new watches from Paulin, the Modul D and E. Like its predecessors, the Modul line-up has a way of being at once playful, but owning a distinctive style that can only come from years of expertise to know when and where to break the rules. Let’s start with some specifics of these watches, shall we? For both Moduls, customers get the option of two case sizes and three movements for a total of six combinations available. For the 35mm case, you have the choice of either a quartz (ETA 955.112)  or manual (ETA 7001) movement, while the 39mm option is equipped with a La Joux Perret automatic movement.  By the way, if you’re worried the 35mm might be too small – don’t be. The tonneau-shaped case has a deceptively large presence on the wrist, making it a perfect unisex size. In terms of colorways, the Modul D and E are a bit more subdued than other models in the line. Focusing on monochromatic dials, these models use the indices and hands for pops of color. The Modul D is a black-dialed watch with a blue hour hand, a white minute hand, and yellow indices, while Modul E is a nice contrast of a white dial, offset with blue and orange. Each reference is tonally offset against the stainless steel case. While these iterations of the Modul line may not be as flashy as previous ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus References Another Friday Oct 18, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll take a look at the famous Patek Philippe Nautilus. It’s a great reminder of what makes Gérald Genta’s creation stand out. The watch was first introduced in 1976 and has become one of the industry’s leading silhouettes over time. But we all know that the brand discontinued the […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References to read the full article.

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection Fratello
Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection Let Oct 18, 2024

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection

Let the record show that this introduction to the Patek Philippe Cubitus collection was written a day after the official release. That’s important because these watches elicited strong emotions upon their debut and beforehand during online leaks. Therefore, I’ve let these watches sink in a bit before reacting. I’ll run down the specs and share […] Visit Introducing: The Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection to read the full article.

Meet The New Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker Fratello
Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker Citizen’s Oct 17, 2024

Meet The New Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker

Citizen’s Promaster line has brought us professional toolwatches for 35 years. Today, I’ll look at one of the last additions, the Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker. It’s available in three colorways and was designed for pilots. However, I discovered this watch is equally suitable for general watch lovers like you and me. Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker […] Visit Meet The New Citizen Promaster Geo Trekker to read the full article.

Patek Philippe Cubitus Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Oct 17, 2024

Patek Philippe Cubitus

The Stern family has been at the helm of Patek Philippe since the 1930s, and for all intents and purposes the family has been responsible for – or, at the very least, overseen – just about every notable iconic release from the brand in the modern wristwatch age. Sure, split-seconds chronographs and the first Patek perpetual calendar wristwatch pre-date the Stern legacy, but when it comes to pure iconography across known collections spanning the Calatrava, the Nautilus, the Ellipse, and the Aquanaut – names that make boutiques quiver at the notion of adding yet another name to a medieval scroll’s worth of a waitlist – we can all thank generations of the Stern family. And now we can add the Patek Philippe Cubitus to that list. Brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern invested in Patek in 1932 and were tangentially a part of the brand when the first Calatrava launched. Henri Stern oversaw the development and release of the Ellipse, followed by a watch that has come to define the brand by the general salivating public: the Nautilus (though the ultra-thin Ref. 3940 is just as deserving of praise). Philippe Stern took over in 1993, and it was under his stewardship that Patek followed up on the Gérald Genta-designed Nautilus with a new take on the format: The Aquanaut. Patek loves to delight and surprise, and so, for a deeper look at Patek launches over the years, read Mark Bernardo’s piece here. You might be thinking to yourself that a whole host of watches are missin...

Fratello Talks: Humor In Watches Fratello
Oct 17, 2024

Fratello Talks: Humor In Watches

Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Watches are many different things - functional objects, fashion accessories, charming anachronistic timekeeping companions… The list goes on. But one thing they aren’t is funny. In the world of watches, the only thing more serious than the timepieces themselves is their prices. But does that mean there’s no […] Visit Fratello Talks: Humor In Watches to read the full article.

First Look – The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm, now with a Cool Red Bezel Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm Oct 15, 2024

First Look – The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba 40mm, now with a Cool Red Bezel

While widely known for its countless apparitions on the silver screen and its military-inspired watches, Hamilton, once an American brand now under the umbrella of the Swatch Group, also carries a rather serious range of aquatic-oriented watches. Sitting alongside the high-performance Frogman and BeLOWZERO collections is the Khaki Navy Scuba, a classic dive watch with […]

The Habring² Oskar is a Classical Moon Phase SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Oct 15, 2024

The Habring² Oskar is a Classical Moon Phase

Described by Habring² as “a relative of Felix“, the Oskar shares the brand’s signature A11 movement but gains a calendar module, with the seconds at six or central. Launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Habring², the Oskar makes its debut in three different variants, a pair with date-and-moon and the final model with just a moon phase. All three feature the same classical aesthetic with Breguet numerals and a compact, 38.5 mm case. Initial thoughts The Oskar is an excellent example of what the Austrian independent has to offer – appealing, clean aesthetics paired with the excellent, proprietary A11 movement, and a price tag of well under US$8,000. And the Oskar also reflect Habring²’s technical competence that the brand managed to squeeze the complication module into a 9 mm high case, with the movement alone being just 5.5 mm high. Admittedly, the vintage-inspired styling might be a little generic, although it is easily appealing. The design is well-executed with a properly proportioned dial and thoughtful details. As is typical for Habring², the Oskar is an honest product and an excellent value proposition, with the moon phase model priced at €6,050 and the moon phase with pointer date about 10% more. Mid century style  The case is a simple, fuss-free affair that is similar to that found on other Habring² models, including the Felix. Entirely polished, the stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 9 mm in thickness for both versions. All three m...

Yema and Alain Silberstein Collaborate on a New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Yema Oct 14, 2024

Yema and Alain Silberstein Collaborate on a New Limited Edition

Founded in 1948, Yema is an independent French watch manufacturer in Morteau, France, which as Yema reminds us, is “the birthplace of French watchmaking.” The third-generation Bôle family operates it alongside a team of watchmakers with over 40 years of experience. Over the years, they have gained a reputation for producing robust and dependable tool watches suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Yema has sought a new, more enthusiast focused clientele in recent years, particularly with their popular dive watches and the new Wristmaster line of integrated bracelet sports watches. To enhance this revival, they partnered with Alain Silberstein to create a special limited edition piece. Silberstein is an artistic watch designer with a background in interior architecture who grew to prominence with his eponymous brand in the 80s and 90s. His original designs were genre-defying and have now become his signature look. His style can be polarizing, frequently incorporating bright primary colors and geometric shapes in unexpected ways. The word “playful” gets thrown around a lot in the watch world, but it truly defines the Silberstein design language – they just have a way of making you smile. And that’s exactly what this new collaboration with Yema is designed to do. It is a 40mm dual crown dive watch in Black DLC Grade 5 Titanium with micro-blasted finish. The Yema x Alain Silberstein Marine features a crown at 4 o’clock for time setting and win...

Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward s Best Diver Ever? Oct 11, 2024

Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière

When Christopher Ward announced the C60 Trident Lumière a few weeks back, the emphasis-errr-the spotlight was put on using massive Globolight lume plots on the dial. Twelve individually molded lume-infused ceramic monoliths promised to glow like cartoon uranium studded the dial per hour. A dial they claimed cost them 4x the usual. Well, after a few weeks with the watch, while I can attest that the lume is very impressive, it’s not why the C60 Trident Lumière is successful. Rather, it’s simply because it’s the best-executed tool/sports watch the brand has made, at least that I’ve encountered. The proportions are refined, the finishing is excellent, and the aesthetic is cohesive. The C60 Trident Lumière (just Lumière from here out), like the Twelve X and Bel Canto, demonstrates that Christopher Ward is a brand operating at a level on par with or higher than big Swiss brands at an equivalent price, a function of, but not a given, with their D2C model. However, it’s perhaps more impressive in some respects than those other two watches because it’s not a showpiece. No, the Lumière is a mainline, if higher priced, offering for the brand. Which is to say, it’s a sign of what they can do on a “normal” watch and, thus, perhaps, a sign of what to expect in the future. But, enough hyperbole. Clearly, I am a bit taken with the Lumière, so let’s get into the details. $2390 Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Case Grade 2 ...

Hands-On: The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary Fratello
Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar Oct 10, 2024

Hands-On: The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary

The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary is the dressiest release from the trio of red gold beauties. Its inky black dial and traditional case design make it a beauty that can be worn in various situations. Today, we’ll look at this complicated chronograph in more detail. I remember when the Premier returned in […] Visit Hands-On: The Breitling Premier Datora Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Delma Oceanmaster Oliver Heer Ocean Racing, with Full-Lume Dial Monochrome
Casio n like Oct 10, 2024

Introducing – The New Delma Oceanmaster Oliver Heer Ocean Racing, with Full-Lume Dial

This year, Swiss watchmaking brand Delma celebrates 100 years since the company which led to its creation was founded in Lengnau with a few notable exemplars released to mark the occasion, like the Delma 1924 Tourbillon, made in collaboration with the renowned La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker Olivier Mory, or the Delma Heritage Chronograph 100 years. Also, […]

Introducing: The Louis Moinet Starman Flying Tourbillon Fratello
Louis Moinet Oct 9, 2024

Introducing: The Louis Moinet Starman Flying Tourbillon

The Louis Moinet Starman is the latest release from the small Swiss brand that specializes in creating rare and extraordinary watches. The brand often blends exotic materials with high-level complications. Because of their low production numbers, Louis Moinet watches aren’t for everyone, but they’re always worth a look. Every release from Louis Moinet is worth […] Visit Introducing: The Louis Moinet Starman Flying Tourbillon to read the full article.

Todd Snyder and Weiss Watch Company Team Up for their First Collaborative Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Oct 7, 2024

Todd Snyder and Weiss Watch Company Team Up for their First Collaborative Limited Edition

Todd Snyder has once again teamed up with a quintessentially American maker to produce a highly limited field watch - and it’s not who you think. For decades now, and particularly since the founding of his eponymous brand in 2011, Todd Snyder has done his level best to elevate and highlight American heritage brands. From collaborations with Red Wing and Champion to L.L. Bean and Alden, Todd Snyder has - much like Ralph Lauren before him and Snyder’s contemporary (and former J. Crew colleague) Sid Mashburn - been one of the leading ambassadors for the original styles and designs that have defined the American look. Today, Snyder is partnering with a younger brand, Weiss Watch Company, to introduce a collaboration highlighting not only the revival of American watchmaking but the enduring legacy of American manufacturing and craftsmanship that inspire both brands so clearly. The result is the Weiss Watch Company x Todd Snyder Field Watch, a modest and robust field watch built very much on the platform of the Weiss Watch Company Standard Issue Field Watch but elevated with the distinct visual signature we’ve come to expect from Todd Snyder. The Weiss Watch Company x Todd Snyder Field Watch measures 38mm across, 46.2mm lug-to-lug, and 9mm thick (a measure that includes the double-domed sapphire crystal). The watch retains Cameron Weiss’s signature case design, here in 316L Stainless Steel, and is available in two versions. The first features a tan dial and a natu...

Hands-On With Artem Nylon Watch Straps Fratello
Tudor Submariner Oct 6, 2024

Hands-On With Artem Nylon Watch Straps

Due to my smaller wrists, I tend to wear custom-size straps and adjusted bracelets. However, there are other options. The Artem nylon watch straps are a cut above typical offerings. I’ve paired one with a vintage Tudor Submariner for today’s review, and I’ll answer why it’s worth selecting a premium nylon strap over a flimsy […] Visit Hands-On With Artem Nylon Watch Straps to read the full article.

Introducing – Gübelin Unveils Ipsomatic, its Own Watch Designed by Architect Santiago Calatrava Monochrome
Patek Philippe watches once retailed Oct 4, 2024

Introducing – Gübelin Unveils Ipsomatic, its Own Watch Designed by Architect Santiago Calatrava

If you’re into watches, then the name Gübelin should sound familiar –  you’ll probably first think about double-signed vintage Patek Philippe watches, once retailed by this house. Indeed, Gübelin is, first and foremost, a jeweller and watch retailer which has been in the business for over 150 years in Switzerland. Today, Gübelin returns to making […]

Quick Look at the Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz Hamilton’s Oct 4, 2024

Quick Look at the Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz

Hamilton’s Khaki line of field watches traces its lineage through the brand’s rich history of producing watches for the American and British militaries. Originally launched in the 1980s, the Khaki line has expanded to a dizzying array of references - all with a unique twist on Hamilton’s heritage.   The new Khaki Field Quartz utilizes a similar dial layout to a watch Hamilton produced for government and non-military personnel of the British armed forces in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Reinterpreted with a quartz movement in both 33mm and 38mm cases and that iconic “Khaki” text on the three dial colors, the Khaki Field Quartz may just be one of the best buys in the Khaki collection.   As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. Hamilton’s Khaki line of field watches traces its lineage through the brand’s rich history of producing watches for the American and British militaries. Originally launched in the 1980s, the Khaki line has expanded to a dizzying array of references - all with a unique twist on Hamilton’s heritage.   The new Khaki Field Quartz utilizes a similar dial layout to a watch Hamilton produced for government and non-military personnel of the British armed forces in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Reinterpreted with a quartz movement in both 33mm and 38mm cases and that iconic “Khaki” text on the three dial ...

Introducing – The New EU-Exclusive Grand Seiko SBGW321 Nishikigoi and SBGY040 Chisen Teien Monochrome
Grand Seiko SBGW321 Nishikigoi Oct 3, 2024

Introducing – The New EU-Exclusive Grand Seiko SBGW321 Nishikigoi and SBGY040 Chisen Teien

Japanese nature and culture have long been a deep source of inspiration for Grand Seiko, which has managed to merge serious watchmaking credentials with a unique sense of style, infused with references to its country of origin. For most of its watches, this connection with Japan takes shape on the dials, which are known to […]

The Nomos Tangente Gains a Double Date SJX Watches
Nomos Tangente Gains Oct 3, 2024

The Nomos Tangente Gains a Double Date

Nomos gently upgrades its classic wristwatch with a new calibre and double-date display: the Tangente 2date retains the signature Tangente design but with the addition of a quickset, twin date display. The same date is indicate twice, on the date disc at six o’clock and then again with a pair of brackets on the date scale located on the dial’s periphery. It’s powered by the DUW 4601, a new calibre that’s based on Nomos’ longstanding Alpha movement. Initial thoughts The Tangente 2date is essentially another iteration of a familiar model, inside and out. Though it still makes appealing, well-priced watches, Nomos hasn’t introduced anything truly novel in some time, and the Tangente 2date reflects that. As the name implies, the only novel element is the double date display that adds detail to the dial, which is fairly stark in its original iteration. At the same time, the date is useful in filling the excess space on the dial that results from the small movement relative to the case. However, the double date is redundant in terms of functionality, and from that perspective, feels gimmicky. The view from the back is appealing, with the extra-wide date module forming a decorative ring around the base movement. The DUW 4601  movement, however, is not exactly novel. Though Nomos describes the calibre as “newly developed”, the DUW 4601 employs the basic architecture of the Alpha, which in turn was a reworked Peseux 7001. In fairness, the DUW 4601 is substantially ...