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Three-link semi-circular Rolex bracelet introduced for the 1956 Day-Date; Crownclasp closure.
1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.
Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
Fratello
It has been a few years since we last featured Mitch Mason on Fratello. We reported on the brand’s Maelstrom dive watch series, which has been quite a success for the Singaporean brand. The new Maelstrom Tales of the Sea is an updated version of the initial Maelstrom. It features a revised dial with a […] Visit Hands-On With The New Mitch Mason Maelstrom Tales Of The Sea to read the full article.
Monochrome
In just seven years, Norqain has consolidated its position as a producer of sporty, robust, adventure-inspired watches. Following its partnership with movement manufacture Kenissi in 2020, one of the first models to benefit from the deal was its traveller’s GMT model, the Freedom 60 GMT. Appearing with blue, green and brown dials, the latest bronze […]
Time+Tide
A watch is just about the best birthday gift, especially for a young adult. What? No. We're definitely not biased.The post 11 of the best 21st birthday gift watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Many of us are guilty of it: in an entire collection, every last dial will be monochrome. White here, black there, and a dash of silver or grey mixed in. If one is particularly daring, there may even be a dark blue dial added in. But versatility isn’t everything - sometimes, a bright, in-your-face dial is the perfect antidote to a grey day. Watch dials have historically been places of decoration. Painted enamel dials were popular in the nineteenth century, with such vivid imagery as landscapes, battles, and hunting scenes adorning them. Though neglected through the early twentieth century, the colorful dial - now in more vibrant bursts of color - saw a vivid return in the mid-twentieth century when companies were scrambling to produce new timekeepers for the burgeoning underwater sport of SCUBA diving. A colorful dial can signal the change in seasons. For many, a bright dial immediately conjures images of sunny vacations, warm water, and worn paperbacks, while a muted dial can be the perfect companion during bleak midwinters, perfectly accenting the changed environment. A well-chosen dial can also inject color into both your collection and wardrobe, providing the right accent piece and adding the missing link in an otherwise perfect outfit. In this week’s Chronicle, we’re looking at some of our favorite colorful dials for those occasions when nothing else will do. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. I...
Worn & Wound
Perhaps the crown jewel of Grand Seiko’s automatic watches, the 62GS was the brand’s first to feature an automatic movement. Vintage 62GS pieces championed subtlety with small crowns, “bezel-less” crystals, and smooth, polished edges. The 62GS has lived on through many contemporary iterations, and most hold on to that understated elegance as a key design feature. The current lineup of Heritage Collection pieces reflects almost all the hallmarks of the 62GS that it’s based on, albeit with dials themed for the 24 solar terms of the Japanese sekki. Grand Seiko’s newest 62GS piece continues the seasonal motif of the Heritage Collection lineup but adds even more color by enveloping it in 18-karat rose gold. This rose gold reference, SBGH368 in the Grand Seiko catalog, is meant to symbolize cherry blossoms covered in snow, featuring a textured copper pink dial encased in a dual curve sapphire crystal. The indices, dauphine hands, date window frame, and screw-down crown match the case material, as does Grand Seiko’s logo positioned just above the brand’s name, below the double-thick 12 marker. An exhibition case back showcases the Hi-Beat 9S85 automatic movement, which features 37 jewels and a 55-hour power reserve, as well as 100-meter water resistance. In terms of sizing, the SBGH368’s case measures 38mm in diameter and 12.9mm in thickness, maintaining the standard specs of the 62GS line. The 20mm lug width promises easy strap-swapping, though the included...
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Fratello
Two years ago, when Rolex acquired Bucherer, a multi-brand retail store with over 100 locations, it also included the jeweler’s watch brand Carl F. Bucherer. So, as of 2023, the Rolex crown was protected by the Tudor shield and a second brand with a history that dates back to 1888. You would think that a […] Visit Rolex Shuts Down Watch Brand Carl F. Bucherer, And That’s Hardly A Surprise to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
January 2025 saw straight declines across the board for the WatchCharts Overall Market Index which fell by -0.9%, as well as for the Rolex (-0.8%), Patek Philippe (-0.9%), and Audemars Piguet (-0.5%) indexes. These declines are comparable to what we observed a year ago in February 2024 and two years ago in February 2023.
Worn & Wound
Author A.A. Milne wrote in Winnie the Pooh, “When you see someone putting on his big boots, you can be pretty sure that an adventure is going to happen.” I’m of the opinion that one should always be prepared for a little adventure, and thereby a believer in a good pair of boots, just in case. I can definitively say that shoes are not one of my many vices. If I’m leaving the house, there are two options I will wear 90% of the time: white Nike Air Force Ones, or a pair of leather Chelsea boots. I opt for the latter during the seven-month-long snow season we get in Colorado. Chelsea boots have been my staple since I can remember, as they’re versatile and easy to slip on as I’m running out the door. When I find something I like, I stick with it, only replacing something when necessary and never straying too far from what I know. It was a big deal then, when I swapped my Embury Leather Casual Dr. Martens Chelsea boots for a pair of Blundstone Classic 587s last March. Dr. Martens were my brand of choice for six years. The same pair of Chelsea boots guided me through the streets of Paris in 2018 and a solo trip to Ireland four years later. My Blundstones are coming up on their first birthday this March, and have traipsed through dirt and debris along Route 66 as well as seven states and a handful of National Parks. Both brands have a lot to offer in terms of heritage, specs, and fit, and both deserve consideration in one’s quest for the perfect Chelsea boot. Bra...
Worn & Wound
Whenever Bulgari introduces a new Serpenti, we see a familiar chorus of articles and reactions, often but not always from male members of the watch media, opining on the possibility of a “Serpenti for men”. We don’t like to gender watches around here and firmly believe that anyone can wear anything they’d like, but there’s also no point in denying that the Serpenti, for its entire history, has been aimed squarely at the ladies market, and that the watch itself, insofar as it resembles a piece of fine jewelry, possesses a certain inherent femininity. So the thought experiment of what a Serpenti that is truly gender neutral or even designed for a male wrist has persisted (even though it’s perfectly fine for some watches to just be what they are). Today, through a collaboration with MB&F;, we get an answer, kind of. The Bulgari x MB&F; Serpenti is an audacious reimagining of the core Serpenti idea, which is to interpret the body of a snake as a time telling device. MB&F;, of course, is the perfect collaborator for an endeavor like this. They’re no strangers to taking the essence of a living thing and turning it into a horological work of art. After frogs and bulldogs, the snake seems like a comfortable next step in populating the MB&F; zoo. The new creation, unlike a Serpenti Tubogas that is meant to wrap around a wrist, is worn like a traditional watch, at least in the sense that it consists of a case with a strap mounted to either end of it. That case though...
Fratello
You blink once, and it is Sunday again! Fear not - we have another big horological battle prepared to help you softly transition into action this morning. This week, we pit the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 against the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” 16202. It is the watch world’s latest darling reissue versus the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16202 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 to read the full article.
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Fratello
Thomas recently published his love story on the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph. I also made a quick video about it since it was in our Fratello office for a few days. Seeing beautiful images of a watch is one thing, but seeing the hands in motion and the wheels and gears turning is […] Visit Hands-On Video With The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph to read the full article.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at the brilliant and rich history of Omega Seamaster dive watches. The lineage started in 1957 with the introduction of the first Seamaster 300, which was part of Omega’s famous trilogy along with the first Speedmaster and Railmaster models. After that, the brand released many iconic dive […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Omega Seamaster Dive Watches to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 is a stunning embodiment of luxury and timeless style, drawing its roots from the heritage of the iconic Reference 325 model. In this review, I explore one of the most striking colour combinations to fully appreciate what makes this timepiece stand out. What We Love The black obsidian dial perfectly complements the 18k 5N gold case ideally sized to suit even small wrists A timeless design that references the original Prortugieser Reference 325. What We Don’t With a case thickness of 12.4mm, the watch’s water resistance of 30m seems too little. The lack of a date window may deter those who want a dress watch with this feature. Sixty seconds constant sub-counter needs to be a few shades darker to more closely match with the dial. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Portugieser line has to be my favourite from IWC Schaffhausen, with its elegant and refined aesthetics complementing the sporty side. Previously, I had the chance to wear and test out the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 42 with the sliver-plated dial, and I certainly enjoyed my time with it! Before I had the chance to do the review, however, I was already a fan of the Automatic 42, especially its bi-counter layout displaying the power reserve and constant seconds. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 on Chamath’s wrist W...
Monochrome
Anniversaries are to be celebrated, whether in your personal life or on the more professional side of things. Heck, every year plenty of brands release celebratory watches in honour of hallmark occasions. This year, Jack Mason joins in on the birthday shenanigans with an entirely new range of tool-oriented watches called the Pursuit Pilot, which […]
Worn & Wound
Imagination is at the heart of any good spy story or thriller, and MKII seems to know that well; with their latest release, the Fulcrum 39, they’ve crafted a watch fit for a speculative undercover mission in the 1970s. A diver-style piece that favors practicality and class over more visually militarized counterparts, the Fulcrum 39 is designed to convey MKII’s “vision of the perfect tool watch”. The Fulcrum 39 is a revised and sized-down successor to MKII’s Fulcrum, originally released in 2013. Aptly named for its discreet 39.50mm case size, the Fulcrum 39 is a watch that could have been made for military and covert ops; MKII has crafted a sort of horological fiction with the watch’s design and heritage. While mainly inspired by timepieces issued to the United States Military in the Vietnam War era, the Fulcrum 39 also tags in elements of more civilian-oriented designs, hence the smaller case size and understated appearance. The idea of a watch with a grounded yet fictional background is unique and lends an air of hushed intrigue to the Fulcrum 39 that helps elevate it from just another dive watch to a very functional gear piece for a theoretical (or real) adventure. With all these stylistic features in mind, the Fulcrum 39 is unmistakably a tool watch. It totes a 120-click unidirectional bezel, available in either 12-hour or 60-minute diver configurations, maximizing its utility as a dive watch-particularly when paired with its 200m water resistance. The b...
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Time+Tide
The origins of the California dial may remain a mystery, but what we know for certain is that these are some of the best you can get today.The post 10 of the best California dial watches making the most of the quirky layout appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Veteran-owned Prevail strives to redefine what a military-inspired watch can be. With a unique contemporary design language and capable specifications, the young brand is unafraid to chart its own path. The Tampa Bay-based brand donates a portion of its profits to the Heart and Armor Foundation, a charity supporting scientific research and community programs for veterans’ health. The Onward, Prevail’s freshman offering, is the brand’s contemporary update of the classic field watch formula. Housed in a uniquely shaped 42mm matte stainless steel case with 200m of water resistance, it takes the century-old formula and modernizes it for the 21st Century. Underneath the recessed sapphire crystal are three dial colors - standard black, compass green, and shovelhead - with a 12-3-6-9 “Explorer” version and a broad skeleton marker variant called the “Tactical.” With its fixed strap bars, the Onward Future is purpose-built to hold up to any adventure. Inside the Onward is the Ronda Calibre 513, a Swiss-made quartz caliber. It features three hands, one jewel, and hacking with an expected accuracy of -10/+20 seconds per month and a battery life of approximately 45 months. Veteran-owned Prevail strives to redefine what a military-inspired watch can be. With a unique contemporary design language and capable specifications, the young brand is unafraid to chart its own path. The Tampa Bay-based brand donates a portion of its profits to the Heart and Armor Foundation, a ...
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, and that means we have another Sunday Morning Showdown for you. We often get requests to put two classic watches against each other to find out what you think is better. This week, we opted for two great Rolex classics. One is the legendary Explorer ref. 1016. It will go up against […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 Vs. Explorer Ref. 1016 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
These have been a fiery seven days, especially for independents and microbrands.The post New releases from Baltic, Urwerk, Louis Erard and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we will explore the world of adventurer’s watches. It’s time to look at timepieces that are best suited to help you out in the great outdoors. “Best suited” can mean a variety of things. Some of the things that come to mind are functionality, comfort, and, of course, sturdiness. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Designed For The Outdoors - Featuring G-Shock, Alpina, Seiko, And More to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
Launched in late 2023, the Tourbillon Cardan marked Greubel Forsey’s pivot to more classical watchmaking, away from the sports watches that defined it for several years. Staying true to its speciality, the Tourbillon Cardan is a fancy tourbillon: it’s equipped with an inclined, high-speed tourbillon making one revolution every 16 seconds, with the tourbillon suspended in a pair of cardan, also as a universal joint or gimbal, similar to the suspension used in marine chronometers. The set-up swivels the tourbillon back and forth as the carriage makes it 16-second rotation, which theoretically optimises the position of the balance wheel while the watch is on the wrist. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Cardan is classic Greubel Forsey in many ways, bringing to mind the various exotic tourbillons the brand has released over the years. The watch is big, huge in fact, but stands out with engaging visuals thanks to the multiple motions of the gimballed tourbillon. There’s a lot to see on the open dial, which is not only complex and dynamic but also offers an appealing depth. The depth is a consequence of the thickness of the watch, which is substantial – over 18 mm high with the crystal, necessary to accommodate the tourbillon. Despite the size, the watch is lightweight as the case is titanium, but it still feels chunky but that’s almost expected for a Greubel Forsey. The compact Nano Foudroyante EWT, on the other hand, is atypical of the brand. Though the colours are mon...
Worn & Wound
There is always a risk when a product gets an upgrade (Crystal Pepsi, anyone?), but this is especially a touchy subject in the watch world. We, as collectors and enthusiasts, tend to keep things as they are. Small updates? Sure. Bold colorways? Absolutely. But being told there is a completely new design? Well, now I’m a bit weary. Luckily for me, I’ve been proven wrong by Farer. They’ve recently relaunched their GMT Bezel collection, boasting – you guessed it – a completely new design. Previous iterations of this model were a core offering of the brand, showcasing the balance between bold design language and a classic case style. Now, we see a new (and dare I say improved?) set of GMT Bezels on the market, whose main feature is the concave “ski-slope” lugs first seen on the Chrono-Contempo Collection. If variety is the spice of life, then the GMT Bezels are pretty damn spicy. Coming in two size options (40mm and 38mm) and four colorways, this is a series that has a bit of something for everyone. I’ll review each of the four color options briefly, giving you a taste of how distinct – and yet cohesive – each reference feels. For the 40mm models, one can choose from Maze and Crooms options. Maze has a pearlescent grid patterned dial complemented by shades of glossy black, light blue, and red. Crooms exemplifies Farer’s in-house design language, with a clean overall design and a bold colorway mixed with additional pops of color. With its burgundy dial i...
Fratello
With our long-lasting Thursday vintage column rebranded, it would be criminal not to look back closely at my 2024 watch-collecting moves. Here are some highlights: my obsession with vintage Gallet chronographs goes on (with room for impulse purchases still there), and I invested more in research, lost motivation to share on social media, and struggled […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Reflects On His Watch-Collecting Decisions Of 2024 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Everyday wines are very much a budget/quality/preference equation and you should always ensure you have sufficient of these available. Pointy end wines are those for special occasions and family events. These are the wines you want to be good for your cellar or wine fridge.
Monochrome
Once upon a time (in 2019, to be precise), Grand Seiko released a quartet of watches known as the Sekki collection, models inspired by seasonal changes with colourful dials. Issued exclusively in the US and then made available worldwide, a single model dominates the Heritage 62GS Sekki collection, the much-hyped pink-toned SBGA413 Shunbun, closely followed […]
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