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Results for Lange Pour le Mérite Series

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Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Opera Two May 21, 2024

Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong

Having covered the highlights from independent watchmakers and historical pocket watches at The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII on May 24 and 25, we now turn to complicated watches past and present. Amongst the historical are an Omega 30I tourbillon wristwatch tested at the Geneva, Neuchatel and Kew observatories, as well as a pair of chronographs with historical movements, an Excelsior Park with the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph calibre and a Montblanc with the large, 17”’ Minerva monopoussoir chronograph movement. More recent is the Patek Philippe ref. 5059R London edition with applied Roman numerals and the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two, an ultra-complicated watch that’s a value-buy. The auction is scheduled for May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), with online bidding and the catalogue available on Phillips.com. The Patek Philippe ref. 5059R made for the Grand Exhibition in London. 822 – Lange Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” Launched in 2021 to overwhelming demand, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” was the A. Lange & Söhne’s second luminous digital-display watch after the “Phantom” of 2010. It was a limited edition of 200 watches and based on the second-generation Zeitwerk, which is visually almost identical to the original model but enhanced with several technical upgrades, including a longer, 72-hour power reserve. Like the earlier “Phantom”, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” has a tinted sapphire dial that reveals the luminous numer...

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3 Standouts at the Backbone Media Spring Showcase: Gerber, Wiley X, and Thule Worn & Wound
May 20, 2024

3 Standouts at the Backbone Media Spring Showcase: Gerber, Wiley X, and Thule

Backbone Media has been a long-standing force in the outdoor industry as a media and PR agency representing some of our most beloved gear brands. Each spring they bring a curated selection of their clientele to NYC for their Spring Showcase. The Worn & Wound team was on the scene and here are 3 standout products that we couldn’t stop talking about. Gerber – ComplEAT Cook Set  We likely all know the Portland, OR-based brand Gerber for their multitools, as well as their folding and fixed blades. However, their new modular camping cook and dining set was a show-stealer. The 16-piece ComplEAT Cook Set has everything you need to easily feed a group of hungry campers. It features a stock pot and sauté pan, both with generous cooking surfaces. The dining set comes with space-maximizing designs that complement their custom utensil sets perfectly. Best of all, when it’s time to break camp, everything packs together in the storage bag for ultra-compact stowing between destinations. Wiley X – WX Founder Sunglasses It’s not only great to visit Backbone’s Spring Showcase to see what’s new from some of your favorite brands, it’s great for discovering new brands as well. One of those discoveries for us was the sunglasses brand Wiley X out of Texas. They have been creating tactical and safety lenses for military and tactical use since 1987 and now have a stylish line of daily use sunglasses that don’t sacrifice any of the safety and ballistic ratings of their professio...

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - RJ’s Picks From Oris, Fortis, Tissot, And More Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre May 20, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - RJ’s Picks From Oris, Fortis, Tissot, And More

Although €2,500 is not nothing, it’s a very difficult budget to work with - or so I assumed. Initially, I thought I would always go vintage or pre-owned with this budget. For example, it can buy you a nice vintage Longines, Omega, IWC, Breitling, or Jaeger-LeCoultre. But I checked with our managing editor Nacho, and […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - RJ’s Picks From Oris, Fortis, Tissot, And More to read the full article.

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REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip WatchAdvice
Christopher Ward Baltic Formex May 17, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip

In the early 2020s, everything was shut down, and the watch industry was beginning to stagnate. However, one man decided to make the most of it and designed a watch – inadvertently helping facilitate the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ But do we believe the hype? Let’s find out! What We Like: A non-serious yet refined design Remarkable build quality for the price point Comfortable and well-made strap with plenty of adjustment What We Don’t: Insufficient lume Crown and pushers are extremely fiddly to use Low power reserve Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 7/10 The 2020s post-pandemic watch industry has been coined by some to be the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ for those unfamiliar with the term, a microbrand is a watch brand, usually independently owned and run by a small team – Essentially a small business or a start-up, in normal terms. What the ‘Rise of the Microbrand’ indicates is the massive resurgence of interest in said start-ups, which in turn has been a contributing factor to saving modern horology as we know it. That might sound like hyperbole to you, but I don’t say it lightly – Microbrands like Christopher Ward, Baltic, Formex and Farer have grown to the point where they now challenge household names. Every day, promising young microbrands such as HZ Watches also come out of the woodwork, transforming the industry in small but significant ways. We even got the chance to look at a HZ wat...

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Introducing – The Charming Old-School Spirit of the MeisterSinger Enamel Edition 1Z Monochrome
MeisterSinger May 14, 2024

Introducing – The Charming Old-School Spirit of the MeisterSinger Enamel Edition 1Z

With their single-handed time indications, MeisterSinger’s watches offer a refreshing change of tempo to our fast-paced, hyper-accurate digital universe. Founded in 2001 by Manfred Brassler in Münster, Germany, the brand’s inspiration resides in the sundials and single-hand tower clocks of the Middle Ages. In 2004, the brand released a special watch called the Edition 1Z. […]

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Portrait – Watchmaker Jiro Katayama, the Man Behind Otsuka Lotec and Japan’s new Sensation Monochrome
Otsuka Lotec May 13, 2024

Portrait – Watchmaker Jiro Katayama, the Man Behind Otsuka Lotec and Japan’s new Sensation

Some brands want a global presence, while others are perfectly happy to focus on a much smaller part of the world. Such is the case for Jiro Katayama, a Japanese watchmaker who produces watches under the name of Otsuka Lotec. This low-key but high-impact independent watchmaking atelier has been making the rounds online despite selling […]

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Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle Fratello
Cartier Showing How It’s Done? May 10, 2024

Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle

We have heard quite a few complaints from brands about the watch market recently. Many are struggling from economic uncertainty and a serious correction after lockdown-induced all-time highs. One brand, however, seems to be on a bit of a winning streak. According to Morgan Stanley, Cartier overtook Omega as the second-largest Swiss watchmaker behind Rolex […] Visit Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle to read the full article.

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Explained: The Detent Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s natural escapement May 8, 2024

Explained: The Detent Escapement

Among the many different escapement types, one in particular stands out, the detent escapement. Taking its name from détente, French for “trigger”, this system is often considered to be the purest type of escapement due to its efficiency and virtually lubrication-free operation. Any sort of mechanical clock or watch requires an escapement, a mechanism that transfers torque from the power source to the regulating organ. The escapement bridges the steady rotation of the gears in the going train and the oscillation of the balance. As a result, the escapement fulfils a double function, both maintaining the swing of the balance and regulating the discharge speed of the mainspring and going train. The detent escapement was invented in the second half of the 18th century,  somewhat simultaneously but independently by the English watchmakers Thomas Earnshaw (1749-1829) and John Arnold (1736-1799). A somewhat similar escapement was prototyped by the Frenchman Pierre Le Roy (1717–1785) some three decades earlier, but the modern detent escapement is derived mostly from Earnshaw’s design. Initially, the escapement was conceived for use in marine chronometers, explaining why it is also known as a chronometer escapement. The chronometer escapement also inspired many innovative subsequent escapements, like the Breguet’s natural escapement, the Robin escapement, and the Daniels co-axial. Drawings of detent escapement types taken from ‘The Marine Chronometer: Its History and ...

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Hands-On: the Zelos Spearfish Dual Time Worn & Wound
May 6, 2024

Hands-On: the Zelos Spearfish Dual Time

If a tide pool at a waterpark represented the world of micro/independent watches, some brands would be the kids who sit at the edge, waiting for a wave to bowl them over, others would be the dad that overcompensates by proving he can swim all the way out to the source only before losing his trunks, and then there’s Zelos…the person who showed up in their custom Speedo and polarized purple goggles doing laps around the perimeter. If you want a quality diver, finished brilliantly, made with interesting materials, eye-popping dials, all for around $500, Zelos has you covered. However, there is another Zelos. One that lights up a cigar, slips out of their lounge sandals, and makes their way into a meticulously curated tranquility pool…but still with the purple polarized goggles. This Zelos comes around a couple times a year, playing with high-end Swiss movements and interesting complications.  The first “tranquility pool” Zelos of the year recently hit the market. They took the case from their popular Spearfish line and released the Spearfish Dual Time. Three of the five watches in the line are made of titanium and come on titanium bracelets; the remaining two have cases made from forged carbon and come on a canvas leather strap. I had the pleasure of trying out the Moonscape forged carbon model for a little over a week, and while I do have some complicated thoughts on the model itself, what is indisputable is that you’re getting lavish materials and an elaborate ...

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Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces May 6, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition

Tudor recently revealed another competitively priced chronograph, this time designed for the Tudor Pro Cycling Team participating in the 2024 Giro d’Italia. The Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” is based on the chronograph made for the Alinghi sailing team and features the same carbon composite case. But the aesthetic is more understated, mostly black with touches of red. Initial thoughts Tudor’s recent support for the sport, including the sponsorship of its cycling team and recruitment of Swiss champion cyclist Fabian Cancellara as a brand ambassador, meant a cycling-centric watch was on the way. Although the Tudor cycling team members were issued a special-edition Black Bay Chrono last year, that watch was not available to the public. Now the team gets a new watch, which is also publicly available. In contrast to the equivalent Alinghi edition, the cycling chronograph has a more subdued, streamlined look that’s mostly monochromatic. The absence of overt cycling branding also adds to the appeal (in contrast, the Alinghi chronograph has the team branding on the inner flange). Save for the design changes, this is identical to the Alinghi edition. Unsurprisingly, the price is also similar at US$5,275. True to the brand’s ethos, the value proposition remains excellent considering the carbon composite case, high-spec movement, and overall quality. Last year’s Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” Cycling-ready The Cycling Edition is latest version...

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Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” for Miami GP SJX Watches
Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic May 3, 2024

Tudor Debuts Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” for Miami GP

Days before the Miami Grand Prix, Tudor announced a pair of special watches specifically for the event: the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” issued to Daniel Ricciardo and Yuki Tsunoda of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB). With a rainbow-hued dial that draws inspiration from the credit card of the team’s main sponsor, the two watches match the VCARB cars that have been dressed in a rainbow livery only for the Miami GP. They follow the quiet unveil in February of the Black Bay Ceramic with a blue dial made for the VCARB team at large.  The Chameleon on the wrist of Daniel Ricciardo. Image – Visa Cash App RB Initial thoughts While the first VCARB edition was discreetly launched, this new pair was officially announced by Tudor. Unlike the earlier edition though, these are one-off creations intended for the drivers to wear during the Miami GP. While Tudor has produced numerous collaborative special editions over the years, this stands out for its unusually colourful dial that stands in contrast to the no-fuss aesthetic Tudor often employs. With a dial reminiscent of tie-dye shirts of the 1960s, the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” sports an unorthodox aesthetic for a “tool” watch. Although the look is decidedly atypical for the brand, it’s striking and surprisingly appealing, though it will certainly be polarising. The Black Bay “Chameleon”, however, is not available to the public, making the appeal a moot point. The Miami GP-specific livery of the V...

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Welcome Back: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith Fratello
TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith May 1, 2024

Welcome Back: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith

For many of us, today’s announcement of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith represents a return to where everything began. The original Formula 1 watch from 1986 was groundbreaking, and for many collectors, it was their first luxury Swiss watch. This may sound like “PR speak,” but it rings true for me as it […] Visit Welcome Back: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Golden Meteorite Dial of the new Formex Essence 39 Space Gold Monochrome
Formex Essence 39 Space Gold May 1, 2024

Introducing – The Golden Meteorite Dial of the new Formex Essence 39 Space Gold

Within Formex’s catalogue lie various collections, among which the Essence reigns supreme in versatility. Ranging from 39mm to 43mm in case diameter, the Essence collection offers timepieces of great quality, consistently delivering excellent value for money. With technical ingenuity, aesthetic appeal, and practical solutions, it caters to both seasoned enthusiasts and novice buyers alike. The […]

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Introducing: The Mint-Green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure Powered By A Vintage Valjoux 92 Movement Fratello
Farer style sunglasses Apr 26, 2024

Introducing: The Mint-Green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure Powered By A Vintage Valjoux 92 Movement

Imagine driving your mint-green Ford Mustang convertible from the ’60s along the Californian coast during the golden hour. You’re wearing your favorite pair of Wayfarer-style sunglasses, and the wind is gently blowing through your hair. On your wrist is the brand-new mint-green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure with a vintage Valjoux 92 movement inside. […] Visit Introducing: The Mint-Green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure Powered By A Vintage Valjoux 92 Movement to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Sarpaneva Dragonskin - The First Dial Of Its Kind Fratello
Sarpaneva Apr 25, 2024

Introducing: The Sarpaneva Dragonskin - The First Dial Of Its Kind

Today, we’ll take a brief look at the Sarpaneva Dragonskin, a watch that owes its existence to a fellow watch journalist. It’s a fascinating watch with a great story. Plus, it brings together watchmaking and artisanal materials. What could be better? Justin Mastine-Frost is the Director of Digital Content for Sharp Magazine, one of Canada’s […] Visit Introducing: The Sarpaneva Dragonskin - The First Dial Of Its Kind to read the full article.

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Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht Fratello
Swatch Apr 25, 2024

Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht

Hello, and welcome to an on-location episode of Fratello Talks. Today, Nacho, Daan, and Lex are coming to you from the Watch Valley event in Utrecht, where Swatch Group novelties for the first half of 2024 were unveiled. They’ll run through some of their favorites and give opinions on the different brand’s new watches and […] Visit Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht to read the full article.

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Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase Someday Apr 24, 2024

Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase

Someday, a history of this period in affordable independent watchmaking will be written, and the chapter on Christopher Ward is going to be the longest in this hypothetical volume, for sure. They’ve been around since 2004, and in the ensuing twenty years have gone through just about every high and low a watch brand can experience. While the ultimate thrust of their story is one of incredible growth, those of us who have been around for a little while can probably remember a time when the thought of Christopher Ward winning GPHG awards and being the toast of the watchmaking town would have been fairly unheard of.  The Bel Canto, introduced at the tail end of 2022, changed all that, but the brand had been on an upward trajectory for years before. They’ve come a very long way from being one of the most hotly discussed watch forum brands (so hot, in fact, they have their own forum for C. Ward enthusiasts) know primarily for somewhat generic, but always well made, dive watches. Over the years, they’ve stepped up every facet of their business, with particularly large steps taken in case finishing and movement design. In a very low key way, they are capable of doing things at the higher end of their range that other brands at similar price points simply can’t equal.  While the Bel Canto deservedly gets a lot of the press, one my favorite little pockets of Christopher Ward over the last few years has been the inventive way they’ve incorporated the classic moonphase com...

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Showing The Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Some Love This Monday Morning Fratello
Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Some Love Apr 22, 2024

Showing The Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Some Love This Monday Morning

Five years ago, at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (aka SIHH, the predecessor to Watches and Wonders), Audemars Piguet shocked the watch world. When “AP” launched the all-new Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet collection, the reception was lukewarm at best, but most reactions were straight-up negative. In particular, the dial design got a proper […] Visit Showing The Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Some Love This Monday Morning to read the full article.

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Hands-on – Arnold & Son’s Take On The Integrated Sports Watch, the new Longitude Titanium Monochrome
Arnold & Son Apr 22, 2024

Hands-on – Arnold & Son’s Take On The Integrated Sports Watch, the new Longitude Titanium

Since joining Manufacture La Joux-Perret in 2010, Arnold & Son has been known for crafting impressive timepieces that exude elegance and sophistication. With their meticulously crafted dials, whether openworked, metiers d’art, or adorned with exquisite elements, these watches seemed almost too delicate to be subjected to anything other than adorning the wrist for a stylish […]

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Introducing: The RZE Urbanist - A Lightweight Field Watch With A Solar Movement Guaranteed For Life Fratello
Apr 19, 2024

Introducing: The RZE Urbanist - A Lightweight Field Watch With A Solar Movement Guaranteed For Life

The Urbanist is the latest release from RZE, and we think it might be the perfect “grab and go” watch. As you’ll soon discover, this is a fantastic everyday watch with an easygoing solar-powered movement. Best of all, the movement is guaranteed for life. Did we mention that it’s also affordable? We certainly enjoy RZE […] Visit Introducing: The RZE Urbanist - A Lightweight Field Watch With A Solar Movement Guaranteed For Life to read the full article.

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Watch Spotting At Watches And Wonders 2024 Fratello
Apr 18, 2024

Watch Spotting At Watches And Wonders 2024

Walking around in everyday life, you might spot a watch or two. If you’re lucky, you’ll see something interesting on someone’s wrist. Depending on where you live and work, it will likely vary, but these encounters are not exactly common. However, from the minute we stepped onto our Geneva-bound plane, it was clear that this […] Visit Watch Spotting At Watches And Wonders 2024 to read the full article.

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