Hodinkee
Introducing: The Petermann Bédat 1825 - Same Great Watchmaking, New Design
The young duo has created a brand new caliber and expanded their design language, which is likely to grab new customers.
Results for Windup Watch Fair New York
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Hodinkee
Deployant
New & Reviewed: The 2025 Updated Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 6651
Blancpain’s iconic Villeret collection feels like it has been around for a very long time, but officially, it’s ‘only’ existed for just over two decades. But beyond semantics, the spirit and style of the Villeret had long been established a further two decades before. In 1983, Blancpain introduced a watch that would become emblematic: theRead More
Worn & Wound
The One Watch Collection: Our Contributors Weigh In
The “One Watch Collection” is one of our favorite thought experiments. Thinking through whether we could scale back, or if we started over, if we’d do things differently, helps many of us hone in on what makes the watches we love special in the first place. Today, our contributors wrestle with the idea of a one watch collection, making their choices for the watch they’d wear forever, and explaining their thought process. As always, we want to hear from you. Let us know in the comments if a one watch collection is even feasible, and what your one watch choice would be. Alec Dent – Rolex Datejust “Wimbledon” I have what you might call a theoretical fondness for the one-watch collection. I love the idea, but I also have more than one watch and can’t imagine selling most of the watches in my collection. If I could go back to the beginning of my watch collecting journey, though, there’s no doubt in my mind that I’d be a one-watch guy and that that watch would be a Rolex Datejust. It’s water resistant to 100m, it’s durable, it can be dressed up or dressed down, and it epitomizes classic design. What more could you need from a watch? I’m particularly partial to the 36mm two-tone “Wimbledon” dial with a fluted bezel and a jubilee bracelet, but the Datejust has been around for so long - 80 years this year! - there are countless variations from which to choose. (If I wasn’t here advocating for the Datejust as a one-watch collection, I might adva...
Monochrome
Introducing - New GMT and Gold editions of the TAG Heuer Carrera Extreme Sport
The Carrera Extreme Sport series by TAG Heuer returns for 2025 with three new references: a travel-ready Twin-Time chronograph that merges a true GMT into the openworked Extreme Sport template; a rose-gold chronograph that disrupts the collection’s tool aesthetic using precious metal; and a Tourbillon Extreme Sport F1 75th Anniversary limited edition that celebrates seven-and-a-half […]
Monochrome
Introducing - Accessible Elegance from Japan, with New Brand Kiwame Tokyo
Japan is known for being one of the most mature and fascinating markets for new and vintage watches, home to serious collectors, as well as long-established manufacturers. In recent years, we’ve also seen the rise of a proper independent scene, ranging from accessible to ultra high-end, with Hajime Asaoka being on both ends of the […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967
Longines has a long history when it comes to high-frequency movements. Way back in 1910, the company received the first patent for a pocket chronograph featuring such a high-beat movement and capable of measuring 1/10th of a second. In 1959, Longines presented its first wristwatch with a high-frequency movement that only deviated about 1/10th of […] Visit Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Value Proposition - How Good is the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic?
Since its introduction in 2022, the Citizen Tsuyosa collection has been a resounding success. Stylish, inspired by a cult 1990s model but refreshed according to modern tastes, available in two sizes (40mm and 37mm), the Tsuyosa is a well-equipped and fairly priced option. We’ve come to know the watch in this form, and while there was a […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On Impressions of the New TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5
This week, TAG Heuer announced a fifth generation in its Connected watch line, a collection of smart watches that lean more towards traditional watch form factors than most. It is an attempt to appease the modern watch enthusiast while offering the conveniences brought through connected features, most notably health tracking and phone connectivity. That does mean, though, that the previous generation did tend to fall somewhere in a no-man’s land where watch enthusiasts would most likely still prefer a watch, while those seeking smart features opted for more mainstream offerings from tech-focused companies. This new generation, though, is a true generational leap for TAG Heuer Connected. It brings about many meaningful improvements that might make you reconsider your next connected watch purchase. I was able to spend a bit of hands-on time with each version, cycling through the operating system to speak on it here. Looking first at the case, TAG Heuer is now offering the Connected Calibre E5 in two diameters, the standard 45 millimeter and a new 40 millimeter version. For those scoffing at the 45mm diameter, the Apple Watch SE comes in either a 40 or 44mm case for a frame of reference. At launch, seven standard versions are available between the two sizes, with one separate collaboration special edition. The 45mm case is offered in a mix of stainless steel with ceramic bezels or an all black DLC-coated titanium if you are looking for the full stealth approach. In the 40...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex Revives an Affordable Retro Digital Watch Straight from the 1970s
A revival of the 1975 Timex SSQ digital watch featuring a 38mm steel case, always-on display, and retro design for around $200.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New MeisterSinger Kaenos DLC Editions
MeisterSinger’s new Kaenos DLC editions build directly on the debut model from earlier this year (integrated steel bracelet, sport-chic geometry) and give it a bolder, graphic look. Two limited references bring a black DLC case, a luminous golden-yellow sandwich dial, and the first leather-strap fitment for the Kaenos line. And while a combination of yellow […]
Monochrome
In-Depth - The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty, the 50th Anniversary Edition that Redefines the Model
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato is a child of the 1970s, one of the seminal integrated luxury sport watches designed during this exuberant, pivotal decade for the watch industry. Since 1975, the model has evolved in various directions while remaining faithful to its defining features. Half a century later, the collection is still alive as the brand […]
Fratello
Hands-On: Two Sporty New Variants Of The Cartier Santos - One In Titanium, The Other In Steel With A Black Dial And Lume
By now, everyone is aware that the Santos de Cartier is hot stuff. Cartier has certainly realized this and keeps releasing new versions of its square all-metal sports watch. I still love my Santos Galbée XL ref. 2823. However, as a true Cartier Santos fan, I can’t get enough of all the new variations La […] Visit Hands-On: Two Sporty New Variants Of The Cartier Santos - One In Titanium, The Other In Steel With A Black Dial And Lume to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The new Cartier Santos de Cartier Titanium resolves a common point of consumer feedback
A lightweight Santos variant with a bezel less prone to scratches is a very exciting prospect, but it does have its tradeoffs...The post The new Cartier Santos de Cartier Titanium resolves a common point of consumer feedback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This new ArtyA Luminity Wavy debuts a new AMR-02 calibre
Sculptural cases, an impressive in-house micro-rotor movement and lots of customisation options make this ArtyA a very compelling package.The post This new ArtyA Luminity Wavy debuts a new AMR-02 calibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New All-Black Unimatic Modello Quattro U4-BLB
Unimatic is a Milan-based brand, founded in 2015. It has quickly built a reputation for contemporary tool watches that distil military and field watch DNA into bold, modern forms. The brand’s watches are offered in short production runs, with designs that are rooted in minimalism and focus on legibility, durability, and proportion. The recent Modello […]
Worn & Wound
Introducing Kiwame Tokyo, a New Japanese Microbrand
The independent watch space in Japan is one of the most interesting in the world right now. There have, of course, always been a lot of great watches coming out of Japan, but the last few years have seen a real surge in enthusiast focused releases from brands at literally every price point, and they’ve been redefining what a Japanese watch looks and feels like. We recently covered the latest release from Ōtsuka Lōtec, a daring haute horology experiment with a six figure price tag, and this year also saw the unveiling of Naoya Hida’s first perpetual calendar, which, for me personally, is still one of the very best watches I’ve laid hands on in 2025. These watches, and others, make for great examples of the breadth of Japanese watchmaking, but not everything new and interesting is prohibitively expensive. Case in point, Kiwame Tokyo, an entirely new brand that recently came across our radar. Kiwame is the brainchild of Masami Watanabe, a 30 year veteran of the watch industry who began his career importing luxury watches from European brands to his native Japan. Over time, he also became interested in the burgeoning microbrand scene, and the stated goal of Kiwame is to create a “truly Japanese” microbrand that captures the refinement and craft that is often associated with Japanese design principles. Kiwame debuted their first two watches only a short time ago and they quickly sold out of each 99 piece limited edition (an additional run is promised for Novembe...
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Watches We’d Buy New At Three Price Points
Hi there, and welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Today, we’ve decided to take on the challenge of selecting the watches we’d buy new at three price points. We start with the sub-€1k price segment, then jump to the sub-€5k, and end up selecting what we’d buy for €10k or less. No pre-owned or […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches We’d Buy New At Three Price Points to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The MIYO Watch Keycap: An Intersection of Hobbies
Early this year, I dove into customizable mechanical keyboards for the first time, adding yet another hobby to the growing list. While I wholeheartedly blame our CEO Blake Malin for this, it’s become one of my favorite hobbies to date. Along with physically building keyboards, I also began exploring various subreddits, Discord servers, and blogs, learning about the many different facets of my new hobby. Along the way, I learned about “artisan keycaps”, custom keycaps that are handcrafted from many materials (frequently resin or metal) for a specific theme, which are highly collectible and unique. At one point, I mentioned to Zach Weiss (who also got into keyboards thanks to Blake) that I wanted an artisan keycap with a fully functional watch inside. It turns out that I’m not the only one, as Zach would eventually discover a post on the r/MechanicalKeyboards subreddit titled “MIYO: 1u functioning analog watch keycap (2 year update)” which introduced me to MujiManiac and SNEAKBOX Designs. While there are many artisan keycaps on the market, the standout feature of the MIYO is that it houses a functional watch movement and analog display, built inside a standard 1U size keycap. As the project was designed to be a functional keycap, the movement sits inside a custom machined, two piece stainless steel case that both protects the movement and allows it to be mounted on a keyboard of your choosing (provided it has compatible MX style switches). At the heart of the M...
Fratello
Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try?
The new Tudor 1926 Luna marks an unexpected first for the brand - a moonphase complication. We have come to expect new variations within the Black Bay or Pelagos lines. This time, though, Tudor chose its most understated collection for a milestone complication. The result is a 39mm dressy number with the brand’s very first […] Visit Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try? to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Calatrava Review: The Quintessential Dress Watch?
More than 90 years ago, Patek Philippe launched the watch that would become its signature, the legendary Calatrava - informed by Bauhaus simplicity, conceived of economic pragmatism, and boldly establishing the template for scores of men’s dress watches to follow. Today’s Calatrava collection is vast, comprising numerous high complications, but the basic time-only dress version remains the gateway drug for many a budding Patek enthusiast. In 2025, Patek Philippe unveiled the latest version, the salmon-dialed Ref. 6916, which represents the culmination of many decades’ worth of evolution on both the aesthetic and technical sides. Here is the story behind the Calatrava, and why it has become an undisputed icon of understated luxury. Reference 96 (1932) In the throes of the Great Depression, a new era was dawning for one of the great horological houses of Switzerland. Like much of the rest of the watch industry, Patek Philippe, which traced its prestigious history all the way back to 1839, had fallen on hard times by 1932. That was the year that brothers Jean and Charles Stern, founders of Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères, a successful Swiss dial-making factory and a longtime supplier for Patek Philippe, acquired the latter company and swiftly began the work of updating its product portfolio. In a modern age increasingly dominated by the wristwatches that had surged in popularity since the end of World War I, Patek’s output still largely consisted of ornate, highl...
Worn & Wound
Elka Launches New Watches in a Vintage Inspired 36mm Case Size
Labeling a watch as “vintage-inspired” can open it up to extra scrutiny. How historically accurate are the vintage features? How well-executed is the styling? And mostly importantly, does it make enough practical sense to release today? With their re-launch in 2022, Swiss brand Elka Watch Co. released the original Série 1 line, and the X- and D-Series lead the charge as historically-inspired sport and dress-style watches. Now, in 2025, Elka is bringing back the D series, and introducing a field watch variant, the N Series, in a smaller 36mm size, further upping their vintage styling accuracy. The new 36 N and D references first and foremost share the titular 36mm case diameter, 10.50mm thickness, and 41.10mm lug-to-lug measurements. Keeping both references ticking is a La Joux Perret G101 automatic movement with a 68-hour power reserve, promising modern functionality under the vintage dress, and both feature a screw-down exhibition case back to showcase that movement and provide 50 meters of water resistance. A scratch-resistant box-type sapphire crystal, coated with anti-reflective treatment, tops off the similarities between the two models. The N Series bursts into the lineup as Elka’s first field watch, and the beige, black, and yellow styling matches that application. Two models are available for the 36 N line: a beige dial model with black numerals and indexes and yellow-orange details; and a black dial version with yellow numerals and hands and white indexes...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus with Stone Dials
Just five years after its launch, Czapek responded to a request from friends and shareholders for a luxury sports watch. Released in 2020, the elegant Antarctique sports watch, featuring an integrated bracelet and powered by the brand’s first in-house calibre, was a fresh face on the scene. Responding to yet another request from clients, Czapek […]
Deployant
New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A.
Grand Seiko releases a new addition to their Spring Drive U.F.A model with Caliber 9RB2 which was first shown at WWG this year. The new release is in a special stainless steel and a deep violet textured dial. Press Release information with commentary in italics. New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. The Grand Seiko SpringRead More
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Tank Review: This $210 Dress Watch Is A Hidden Gem
Seiko has no shortage of dress watches, many of which come from the Presage collection, which boasts some of the best values out there. That said, I recently came across a watch that not only comes from the Japanese brand's more basic, entry-level Essentials collection, but is actually the cheapest Seiko out there at the moment. Yes, the Seiko SWR064 is affectionately dubbed the Seiko Tank for obvious reasons, but there is something distinctly Japanese about it. I had my initial doubts about this watch, but when factoring in the design, style, and price, there was no real way of getting around the fact that this is a starter dress watch that exudes value. Let's get into why. Seiko "Tank" Case The case of this Seiko “Tank” is done in stainless steel, with a gold-plated finish that really fits in with the retro styling. I’m usually really turned off by gold-plating but the cohesiveness with the dial elements pulls it together. As for the size, it measures 27.9mm wide, 38.5mm tall, and 6.7mm thick (30 meters of water resistance). For the sake of comparison, the Cartier Tank Louis “Extra Large” comes in at 27.75mm wide, 38.1mm tall, and 8.18mm thick, so the sizes are very close. There’s not a lot of chatter about this watch out there but I did notice some people say it’s too big to be anything like a Tank, which is demonstrably false. The similarities don’t stop there, as the positioning of the brancards is similar - though I do wish they were just a little b...
Monochrome
Portrait - From Tokyo comes Masa & Co, An Unexpected All-Round Watch Atelier
It seems like more and more, we’re uncovering new gems from the land of the Rising Sun. There seems to be a real surge in exciting independent watchmaking with an eye for tradition, craftsmanship and creativity in Japan, and we are loving it! Brands like Otsuka Lotec, Kurono Tokyo and Quiet Club are just a […]
Fratello
Modding To The Max: The Artisans De Genève Absolute Ruby Surpasses Anything The Watch Workshop Did Before
You may very well be looking at the pinnacle of watch modding. The Artisans de Genève Absolute Ruby is a personalized creation with a price tag of US$550,000 hanging from it. As the name suggests, rubies take center stage in this world-famous chronograph, which initially looked more humble when the client handed it over to […] Visit Modding To The Max: The Artisans De Genève Absolute Ruby Surpasses Anything The Watch Workshop Did Before to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II, Worldwide and Beyond
Louis Erard’s collaborative series continues to grow with playful yet serious partnerships, and this time, the brand once again teams up with Vianney Halter for a bold new chapter in their Régulateur line. Dubbed “World Tour”, the project reinterprets the Steampunk-inspired Régulateur through a silver monochrome base design, then spins off a series of colour-coded […]
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux Debuts All-New Automatic Calibre
Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just taken the covers off a new in-house movement that will serve as a versatile platform for the brand, the Girard-Perregaux GP4800. Historically a significant producer of automatic movements, GP marks a milestone with the new, high-performance base movement that will gradually replace the 3000 family of movements that was once a workhorse employed by several high-end brands. Initial thoughts GP’s most famous creations are undoubtedly the historical Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges and the more recent Constant Escapement. Significant as they may be, neither illustrates the brand’s past strength as a manufacture in the early decades of contemporary watchmaking post-Quartz Crisis, in particular GP’s position as a leading supplier of automatic movements. It all began with the 3000 family of calibres introduced in 1994. Desirable for its slimness and high performance – the 3000 series was sub-3 mm thick while ticking at 4 Hz – this versatile platform served not only as a base for many of the brand’s own timepieces, but also powered well-known watches made by a number of prominent brands, including Cartier, Daniel Roth, Vacheron Constantin, and even MB&F;. A GP3000 found in the MB&F; HM2 And then inverted in the MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 The new GP4800 is clearly meant to replace the venerable-yet-aging 3000-series. Boasting a modern architecture and fine technical chops, the GP4800 is a step towards reclaiming GP’s past success as a movement ma...
Time+Tide
Baltic unveil the Aquascaphe Mk2, a more refined take on their incredibly popular dive watch
Baltic has updated its now-iconic dive watch after 7 years of production, offering 37mm or 39.5mm diameters plus other great improvements.The post Baltic unveil the Aquascaphe Mk2, a more refined take on their incredibly popular dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Watch Bezels: Every Type Explained
If you’re new to your appreciation of fine watches, you have undoubtedly read a lot of references to and heard a lot of opinions about watches’ bezels. It is somewhat of an esoteric term but it describes something very simple and essential. The bezel is the front part of the case (often but not always ring-shaped) that frames the dial and secures the crystal. Bezels can be made of the same material as the case middle and/or the caseback, but can also be made of a different material. Here we run down the various types of watch bezels you’re likely to encounter. Polygons and Exposed Screws Watch cases, of course, are not uniformly round, which means that bezels, the front-facing parts of those cases, can also be found in a variety of shapes - sharply squared or rectangular, like the Cartier Tank and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (above); softy cushion-shaped, like the Panerai Luminor and Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921; oval-shaped, like the Breguet Reine de Naples and other luxury ladies’ models; tonneau (“barrel”-shaped), like the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang and many Richard Mille models; and a host of others that combine elements of these and other polygonal shapes. The shape that has proven to be the most popular and influential is the octagon: eight-sided bezels have proliferated ever since Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak (above) in 1972, and watchmakers have also dabbled in other unconventional shapes: the sharply faceted bezel of the Zeni...