753 articles · 18 videos found · page 25 of 26
Monochrome
Minerva, founded as H. & C. Robert in 1858 in the Swiss Jura village of Villeret and renamed Minerva SA in 1929, remains one of the great guardians of traditional chronograph craftsmanship. Its first chronograph movement, the Calibre 19-9, debuted in 1908, and for over 165 years, its workshops have produced some of the finest […]
Worn & Wound
Baltic’s Hermétique feels like a little bit of a secret weapon to me. It’s riffing on vintage watches in a much more subtle way than many of the brand’s earlier releases, and has proven to be a great canvas for creative dial variations and is, honestly, one of the only bronze watches I actually like. When it was announced back in 2023, there was some grousing about the case size, but putting the watch on makes it clear that 37mm is exactly right for a watch in this style. It’s sleek (thanks in large part to the inset crown) and thin, and can be dressed up or dressed down – it’s just a very solid watch at a very easy to digest price point (check out Ed Jelley’s hands-on thoughts from the original launch right here). And while there’s a timeless, almost generic (in a good way) quality to the Hermétique, you can’t really fault Baltic for wanting to capitalize on the seemingly irrepressible desire of watch lovers to adorn their wrists with loud colors in the summer months. Hence, we have the new Hermétique Summer collection. These are watches that do exactly what it says on the tin. They’re the same Hermétiques we’ve become familiar with, but with dial colors that pop up when you search the #summerwatch hashtag on Instagram. Specifically, Baltic tells us they are drawing inspiration from the “California of the 70s.” Not being a Californian, nor alive in the 1970s, I can’t really speak to this personally, but as an evocation of a summery ideal,...
Teddy Baldassarre
In the world of watches, as with pretty much every niche of consumer goods, brands begin to become associated with the things that receive the most praise and attention. While the hyped watches in question undoubtedly earn the adoration of the masses for many reasons, whether it be their unique historical context, utility, or just plain and simple great looks, there are many other watches that get relegated to the sidelines that deserve another look. Since I personally love to root for an underdog, I wanted to take some time to shine a spotlight on some watches from the big popular watch brands that we know and love that often get lost in the shadows cast by the more popular catalog compatriots. From Rolex and Omega to Tudor and beyond, below you’ll find watches that deserve a little more love than they typically get. Rolex 1908 I’m beginning with the watch that has quite literally been relegated to the bottom of Rolex’s own website with the Rolex 1908. Given that this is the most dressy model within The Crown’s contemporary collection, I would argue that it's also the watch that flies under the radar the most. The 1908 isn’t something that you spot across the room at a crowded restaurant or at a bar and immediately clock as a Rolex watch, which is ultimately why I find it endearing. It’s something that needs to be appreciated up close and personal. The world's most popular watch brand has made recent attempts to breathe some new life into the Rolex 1908 with...
Worn & Wound
Neither Ace Jewelers or Nomos Glashütte are strangers to collaborations, especially with each other: the two companies have released a total of seven collaboration models so far. To celebrate the Amsterdam boutique’s 50th anniversary, they’ve teamed up once again with the German watchmaker to create two bold and bright new references in the Metro line. Interestingly, the Metro is one of Nomos’ least-riffed on designs-meaning that they’ve done the fewest amount of novelties and collaborations using the platform as compared to other watches in their catalog. This is partly because the Metro’s designer, Mark Braun, must explicitly approve any collaboration that uses the watch as a base, highlighting the pedigree of Ace Jewelers, and the gravitas of their 50th anniversary. The most obvious punch that both new Metro models carry is right there in the name: the vibrant orange color. As a diehard San Francisco Giants fan, I’m partial to the color, but it is a daring choice-most bright colors are rare in the 2020s, where finding a car that isn’t black, white, or gray is the new needle in the haystack. The Metro, then, is actually the perfect choice for such a colorway, as its design revels in clean, postmodern design, rather than aesthetic noise. Both Orange models feature round stainless steel bezel-less cases with a crown at 3 o’clock, and a DUW 3001 automatic movement with Nomos’ proprietary swing system and up to 43 hours of power reserve visible thr...
WatchAdvice
Breitling has released its latest Top Time collection and with it, a new in-house movement in the form of the Calibre B31 What We Love The vintage style will tick a lot of boxes for collectors The dial colour choices are on the mark The new B31 is a great step forward for Breitling What We Don’t The 38mm size may not suit all wrist sizes The date magnifier slightly detracts from the clean dial layout A quick change mechanism on the straps would have been welcomed, as would a screw in crown Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Before we get into the new watches, for those who are not up with their Breitling history, then let’s take a step back and look at just how the Breitling Top Time came to be, given it is one of the more niche, or cult collections in the brand’s stable. The Breitling Top Time burst onto the scene in the 1960s as a bold, youthful alternative to the brand’s more aviation-focused chronographs. Designed for a new generation of style-conscious adventurers, it stood out with striking dial layouts, often featuring contrasting sub-dials that gave it an unmistakable sporty edge that was inspired by and closely associated with all forms of motorsport. It quickly found its way onto the wrists of racers, thrill-seekers, and even Hollywood icons—most notably, James Bond in Thunderball (1965), where a specially modified Top Time doubled as a Geiger counter. This moment cemented its reputati...
Worn & Wound
Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy was the last of the great Vulliamy family of Royal clockmakers and five-times Master of the Clockmakers’ Company. He was Royal Clockmaker to King George IV, King William IV and Queen Victoria and the driving force behind the formation of the Clockmakers Library and Collection – now Clockmakers’ Museum – from 1814 onwards. The Public Face of Clockmaking The Vulliamy family was known for producing high-quality timepieces, often regarded as some of the finest in Britain during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy was the last of four generations of Royal clockmakers based at 68 Pall Mall, London from 1753. Early in life he joined his father Benjamin in the family business, which by then was best known for its ornamental clocks and metal furnishings. Upon his father’s death in 1811, Benjamin Lewis inherited control of the business. Following the end of the Napoleonic wars he began to shift its output towards emerging new markets, particularly those brought about by the development and expansion of institutions like the new Houses of Parliament, government departments and London’s clubland. In all his products he aimed for high quality, reliability and accuracy. He created clocks for public buildings and important institutions. Some of his works are still present in places like the Horse Guards Parade and the Royal Exchange in London. This magnificent and imposing clock No. 1394 (below) was purchased for use in ...
Worn & Wound
Amidst the three and four-figure divers that dominate the market, Citizen has a reputation for being the everyman’s watch. Though the brand offers a variety of styles and price points, their dive watches tend to be one of the most popular options amongst their fan base. Launched in 1989, the Promaster series was developed with the goal of providing professional-grade, reliable watches for divers and outdoor enthusiasts. The first Promaster dive watch was equipped with advanced features like a high-water resistance rating, luminous hands for visibility underwater, and a rotating bezel to track elapsed time.These Promasters featured an arrow logo, symbolizing the watch’s ability to “go higher and deeper” than Citizen’s previous collections. This arrow is still included on the crown of modern Promaster references, tying these new releases into a longer history of one of the brand’s favored series. Citizen made waves in the summer of 2023 when they released a smaller version of their Eco-Drive divers. Those releases brought the Eco-Drive Promaster, traditionally sized 44mm, into the realm of the smaller-wristed by shaving off a whopping seven millimeters. These options came in three dial colors: gray, blue, and black, and all had a color-matched bezel. Three more colorways were debuted this past December, which included purple, blue, and red dial options. Along with the new colors, the brand made some aesthetic changes to these 37mm divers. Though the three color...
Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling is known historically for two specialties: chronographs and pilot’s watches. Despite the very real popularity of its Superocean dive watches, the legendary status of high-tech “smart” models like the analog-digital Emergency, and the renewed dress-watch cred attained by the elegant Premier collection, it is the models most closely associated with both flying and timing — the Chronomat and Navitimer — that continue to best embody Breitling’s DNA, at least to most savvy enthusiasts. However, both the Chronomat and the Navitimer possess distinctive features that might be, for lack of a better descriptor, polarizing. The former has those angular rider tabs around the bezel and that big, bulbous crown; the latter sports that emblematic, circular slide-rule scale that dominates the dial, which looks cool yet busy and which few wearers actually know how to use. Both are luxurious, impeccably designed watches with sporty, tool-oriented origins rooted in aviation and navigation, but neither is really a gent’s dress chronograph in the traditional sense of the phrase. To be fair, Breitling does make a chronograph family that strives for both utility and elegance — that would be the previously mentioned Premier — but as it’s not aviation-minded in its aesthetic, it’s not “quintessential Breitling” for many folks. For a short while, however — from 2015 to around 2020 or so — Breitling made such a watch, even positioning it in the market as it...
WatchAdvice
Where aviation heritage meets contemporary design, the Zenith x Porter PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph delivers bold style and functionality! What We Love The khaki green colour for the case and dial Orange accents stand out beautifully The case isn’t big, even for slimmer wrists What We Don’t The black crown and chronograph pushers seem out of place with the rest of the watch’s colour scheme. Different font are used throughout the dial Velcro strap won’t suit everyone, especially with slim wrists. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Zenith X Porter Pilot Big Date Flyback Porter stands out as a shining example of thoughtful design and craftsmanship in a world where collaborations feel like the norm. This collaboration was a bit unexpected; however, it is a great way to end 2024 with one of the best-looking timepieces released as a dual project. The latest collaboration between Zenith & Porter by Yoshida & Company results in a beautiful khaki green PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph This watch, as expected, revolves around the theme of travel. Porter is a Japanese bag brand that has a variety of styles for travel bags. For this collaboration, Porter by Yoshida & Company has supplied the velcro straps for the timepeices. They are also throwing in a specially developed bag that has been made with Zenith’s input, in Porter’s signature khaki-green colour. Zenith, on the other hand, has a long ...
WatchAdvice
With all the talk around Bremont’s new lineup, not to mention the change in direction, we wanted to let the watch do the talking, so we’ve gone hands-on with the all-new Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph to see for ourselves! What We Love: The vintage-style numerals The dial is easy to read at a glance The new bracelet design is comfortable and looks great What We Don’t: The watch is on the thicker side, so wears on the larger side Lack of micro-adjust on the clasp and bracelet The lack of a screw-down crown on an explorers sports watch Overall Rating: 8 / 10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Bremont is a brand not without some controversy, well, at least this year when they and CEO Davide Cerrato revealed an all-new brand identity and logo, along with new releases at Watches & Wonders this year. Since then, we have spoken at length with Davide, (stay tuned for that interview in a few weeks), and while time will ultimately let the public see this all come together, the way he describes it, his grand plan makes sense. That being said, whilst the changes took many off-guard, us included, rather than getting involved in the online rhetoric, we thought we would do what we do best – get our hands on the new range and see how the watches are in real life, in the hands and on the wrist. After all, you can never really give an opinion on a piece until you’ve had experience with it and even more so when you can spend consid...
Worn & Wound
Many are quick to point to the venerable Seiko SKX and Seiko Turtle as being the best entry-level dive watches, even going as far as to label them as “must haves” in every collection. That being said, I have always gone a bit against the grain. Now don’t get me wrong, both of those watches have made their way into my permanent collection over the years with the Seiko SKX007 claiming its place as my first serious tool watch, though neither have managed to capture more wrist time than my Seiko Samurai. There is something about the angular architecture, the aggressive handset, and the considerably chunky feel on my wrist that has plucked a heart string within, leading me to argue in its defense and recommend it to those with large wrists akin to my own. So, when I learned that Seiko would be introducing a new generation of Samurai models this year with refined proportions and updated visuals, I jumped at the opportunity to add yet another one to my collection and ordered the red-dialed Seiko Samurai SRPL11. $575 Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Case Stainless steel Movement 4R35 Dial Red Lume Yes Lens Mineral Strap Bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 41.6 x 49mm Thickness 12.7mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $575 While other models in the Seiko lineup have ultimately remained the same over the years, the Seiko Samurai has seen quite a few changes in its relatively short lifetime. Since its inception in 2004, we have seen the...
SJX Watches
Arguably the most prestigious Rolex wristwatch, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date was introduced in 1956 and has only ever been available in precious metals – with the exception of a handful of prototypes in stainless steel. From its beginnings the Day-Date had a particular significance in the Rolex catalogue. The brand’s advertising from the 1960s for the Day-Date carried the phrase “Men who guide the destinies of the world of the world wear Rolex watches”. It was also during this time that the now-familiar “President” nickname for the model emerged when American president Lyndon Johnson, along with several of his successors, were photographed wearing a Day-Date. The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date ref. 6611 of 1956 The Day-Date was the first wristwatch to indicate the date as well as day of the week spelled out in full, a technical feat at the time. In the near-seven decades since, the Day-Date has remained consistent in terms of design and function: the date sits in a window at three o’clock, while the day is displayed within the arc-shaped window at 12 o’clock. Though the dial layout has stayed the same, the mechanics behind the display have been refined and improved substantially over the years. Today’s models – namely the Day-Date 36 and Day-Date 40 – are powered by the cal. 3255. The movement boasts all of Rolex’s technical innovations, along with a double instantaneous calendar display, where both the date and day indicators jump instantaneously and s...
SJX Watches
Named after its silver, textured dial, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” is a variant of the longstanding Sport Collection GMT with a sapphire-covered 24-hour bezel. It’s in two-tone green and white inspired by the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi at the end of winter, where the mountain is covered in lush greenery but topped by white snow. In typical Grand Seiko style, the steel case is finished with zaratsu flat polishing. It is equipped with a high-frequency cal. 9S86 running at 5 Hz that is a “true” GMT movement with an independently adjustable local time hour hand. The silvery white texture depicts snow on the ground in the mountain. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko often turns to nature for its dial colours and patterns, with many of its timepieces are named after elements of the nature world, the Spring Drive “Pink Snowflake”. In the case of the SBGJ277, it’s not just the dial, but also the green-and-silver livery of the watch that is “Snow Valley”. Grand Seiko rolls out such model variants and limited editions frequently, too often sometimes, but its offerings remain good value. This also applies to the SBGJ277, which is priced at US$6,800. It is a practical watch with an in-house movement and a genuine GMT function, along with a high level of fit and finish on almost every element; arguably only the bracelet needs to be upgraded, with a micro-adjustment clasp for instance. Featuring an offset crown at four o’clock ...
Worn & Wound
In 1982, Walt Disney World in Lake Buena Vista, Florida opened its EPCOT Center theme park to the public. Its original concept was to create a real, utopian city based on modern transportation as well as economic and architectural innovations, but after Walt’s death in 1966, the plans were simplified. Instead, EPCOT became EPCOT Center––a theme park honoring the societal modernizations Walt was fascinated with in a more practical (and marketable) manner. To commemorate the park’s opening, Disney and its partners produced various forms of merchandise and collectibles including coins, keychains, mugs, hats, shirts, and, of course, wristwatches. This Bradley EPCOT Center watch exists as both a unique piece of Disneyana and horological history when studying the creation and popularity of Disney-themed wristwatches. Why settle for a Mickey Mouse watch when you can transport your wrist straight back to 1982? A Brief Overview of Disney Watches Disney’s intellectual properties have adorned all types of trinkets, souvenirs, and products since the company’s founding in 1923. Regarding wristwatches, however, Ingersoll in 1933––then a subsidiary of the Waterbury Clock Company (or Timex as they’re known today)––created the first Mickey Mouse timepiece, sparking the seemingly-never-ending popularity of Disney-themed watches among consumers. In 1971, Bradley Time Division––then a subsidiary of Elgin––took over the bulk of production from Ingersoll. Afterwa...
With Father’s Day right around the corner, it’s a good time to reflect about what it is we love about our dads, grandpas, and chosen family. They show up for us at our low points and help celebrate our highs. With the seasons heating up (at least on this half of the hemisphere), Father’s Day can be a great time to get outside with the dads in your life and show them you appreciate what you have built together. In honor of dads, Citizen and Worn & Wound put together a Father’s Day themed gift guide, featuring purposeful and powerful gifts to celebrate your relationships and the endless possibilities you can achieve because of them. For a Dad that’s not like all the other dads, give him a watch that stands out in a crowd. The newest addition to the stylish “Tsuyosa” automatics collection, the “Tsuyosa” Small Second brings an impressive amount of sophistication in a sleek 40mm footprint. With a silver-tone stainless steel case and quickly-interchangeable bracelet, the watch can dress up and down for any occasion. The recessed 4 o’clock crown position keeps additional focus on the robust dial which includes a textured pattern, a contrasting 6 o’clock seconds counter, and additional silver-tone details to keep the watch seamlessly attractive. With an in-house Citizen Caliber 8322 movement capable of a 60-hour power reserve, the “Tsuyosa” is available in Gray, Green, or Blue starting at $550. The post Get Personal and Purposeful with the Father’s Day ...
SJX Watches
In a surprising move, Tudor is launching the Black Bay 58 18K (ref. 79018V-006) at Watches & Wonders 2024. Essentially the same watch as the 2021 model, the new 58 18K now sports a matching yellow-gold bracelet, whereas it was formerly only offered on a leather or fabric strap. The dial and the bezel remain in the same green colourway, with gilt markings that match the hue of the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The 39 mm case is complemented by an oversized crown embossed with the Tudor rose logo, while widely cut bevels on the lugs provide a pleasing contrast to the brushed finish of the case. Initial thoughts While the Black Bay 58 18K won’t have as much of a wide appeal as the Black Bay 58 GMT – simply as a matter of affordability – it is a perfect update for a model that looked incomplete on a strap. And the bracelet itself is noteworthy. I like fact that it does away with the fake rivets found on the steel models. The cleaner look feels more modern and functional. At US$32,100, the Black Bay 58 18K is far beyond the usual price range of Tudor, but arguably delivers a competitive value proposition as far as an all-gold diver’s watch goes. Granted, the price is not far off from the Rolex Submariner in gold, which retails for US$39,000, but relative to the competition (such as Omega and Breitling), it is perhaps the most competitive in its segment. All gold and no rivets The Black Bay 58 18K notably features a solid gold bracelet equipped with a “T-fit” clasp ...
WatchAdvice
Part cyberpunk, part stealth fighter, we go hands on with the Bell & Ross Cyber Ceramic to see if this avante guarde piece can handle the urban jungle. What We Love The faceted designLittle details you keep noticing after a longer wearIt truly is a stealth watch with little branding What We Don’t The loud ceramic rotor noiseThickness of the caseLegibility of the hands and dial Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Bell & Ross is one of those under-the-radar brands. Ironic given their penchant for aviation-themed timepieces! So when I was thinking about what watch I’d like to review, and not had the chance to really spend much time with, Bell & Ross came to mind. I haven’t read any hands-on reviews with them in recent times, nor have I really seen any floating around. Originally I was thinking of doing a review of one of their more classic pieces, however, Bell & Ross offered us an alternative. The new Cyber Skeleton in black ceramic. Introducing the Bell & Ross Cyber Ceramic Initial Thoughts I’ve never been into all-black watches. I’ve nothing against them, they’ve just not really appealed to me all that much. However, the Bell & Ross Cyber Skeleton isn’t your everyday all-black piece. It is a statement on your wrist. One that will most probably not get much attention until it does. It’s one of those pieces that isn’t easily recognisable from a distance (hence under the radar) but on closer inspec...
Worn & Wound
RZE builds watches for adventure. Its latest, a collaboration with Fratello, takes that ethos more literally than ever, with a dial that resembles the topography of a map. It’s a field watch with the field on the watch. The RZE x Fratello Resolute Pro “Contour” keeps the angular design of the Resolute line case. It’s a rugged design, complemented well by its rugged qualities. Grade 2 titanium gives the watch some serious durability while keeping it light and easy to wear, particularly at 40mm. RZE’s proprietary UltraHEX coating ups the case’s durability and combined with a sapphire crystal and titanium bracelet more or less guarantees no part of the watch will scratch. But the case isn’t what’s new about this watch: it’s the dial that really makes the collaboration. Made from forged carbon sheets, the dial gets its signature contours from steel powder infused into the carbon. Because of the nature of this process, each watch dial in this limited run features a unique pattern. A topographical pattern is featured on the caseback as well, which also features a Fratello logo. Applied indices and logo on the dial, and brushing on the case and bracelet give the watch a luxurious finish. Inside is the Miyota 90s5, an automatic movement that features hand-winding capability and hacking, with 42 hours of power reserve. Water resistant to 100 meters with a signed screwdown crown, lumed indices and hands, and an anti-reflective coating on the crystal, the watch is a...
Worn & Wound
When talking about value driven timepieces, it would be foolish to exclude Bulova from the conversation. From their Lunar series to their Precisionist line and their aptly nicknamed Devil divers, Bulova is one of the essential bang for your buck watch brands. Furthering their cause, they are launching 3 new colorways to their popular Surveyor collection, along with a special new gold-tone option. There will now be a striking pistachio (light green) version, with a quick release brown leather strap and a dark green version on matching quick-release 3-link stainless-steel bracelet. Both will have silver-tone dial furniture and hands, while a new burgundy edition will have rose gold-tone accents and crown. The latter will also be supplied on a matching 3-link bracelet. Along with these new stainless-steel models, as previously mentioned, there will be a fully gold-tone edition. This one will feature a stunning champagne dial, with cut-outs so that the wearer can admire the beating heart powering this timepiece. Not only are the watch and bracelet gold-tone, but the movement plates and rotor have been given the gold treatment as well. All these new pieces share the same 39mm case, featuring sculpted edges and faceting, along with a mix of polished and brushed finishing. Topping these watches is a flat sapphire crystal, adorned with a date magnifier and they will be powered by a Japanese (Miyota) 21-jewel automatic movement that boasts a 42-hour power reserve. These vibra...
Worn & Wound
Fears has reintroduced the Redcliff collection today, which made its first appearance in the catalog when the brand was re-established in 2016 by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great grandson of Edwin Fears, the company’s founder. The Redcliff 39.5 Date seen here is an interesting new step for Fears. The brand has seen tremendous growth over these past few years, and they’ve done it almost entirely on the back of the cushion cased watches that make up the Brunswick collection. A straightforward, circular case with a mechanical movement has been notably absent from the collection, and it stands to reason that a more traditional, and perhaps approachable, case platform like the Redcliff could broaden the brand’s appeal considerably. Of course, there are still plenty of small touches that make this iteration of the Redcliff identifiable as a Fears, and there’s a limited edition variant made in collaboration with Collective Horology that seems to be in direct conversation with one of last year’s key Fears releases. We’ll start with the case, as at least at first glance, that would seem to be the most significant departure from what most would consider the established Fears design language. In stainless steel, it measures 39.5mm in diameter and has been designed to be slim at just 9.95mm tall. It has a mix of finishes, including a prominently brushed midcase and a polished, sloping bezel. The crown is oversized and screws down, which helps to give the R...
WatchAdvice
We’ve gone hands on with the Australian limited edition Squale MATIC, sold exclusively through StarBuy. Here’s what we think! What We Love The green gradient dialWearability for a large watchTropic strap is very comfortable in Summer What We Don’t Crown at 4 o’clock is hard to useDomed crystal reflects a lot of lightNot for the faint of wrist Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Squale may not be a brand you would have heard mentioned too often. It dates back to the 50’s when Charles and Helene Von Buren established the Von Büren SA watch factory in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Being passionate divers, their focus was on developing watches specifically for underwater use, which at the time in 1950 was 3 years prior to the Submariner and Fifty Fathoms making their debut. However, it would be almost 10 years before they are able to obtain a patent and register the Squale brand name, and then another 3 before their first watches would hit the market in 1962. The rest as they say is history (quite literally) and today, the brand is still solely focused on dive watches and what you would call a quintessential tool watch. They’re designed for a purpose – to be easy to use and read underwater with maximum legibility and functionality. They’re less a fashion statement, but then again, most watches that are fashionable were originally intended as something else. The form is now greater than the function they’v...
Worn & Wound
The latest release from Maurice de Mauriac is a timely release for the holiday season and the upcoming Olympic year. Focusing on an array of gold-accented chronographs, the new L3 Gold Edition seamlessly marries an elegant design with superb quality that has become synonymous with the Zuch-based brand. The L3 Gold Edition comes in five colorways to choose from: Emerald Green, Cherry Blossom, Opalescent White, Spheric Blue, and Spheric Brown, each with a corresponding hand-tooled leather watch strap that perfectly complements the dial color. Each timepiece features a brushed 18kt 5N red gold case (measuring in at 40.5 mm) with a screw-in red gold crown and mushroom-type pushers, complemented by an antireflective domed sapphire crystal and a sapphire caseback. All models in the L3 Gold Edition include subdials for the chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock, chronograph half-hours at 6 o’clock, and running small seconds at 9 o’clock. For prospective customers, one is able to choose between an automatic or manual movement for their L3. The automatic movement is powered by an automatic Concepto 2100-2120, while the manual-would option contains a Concepto C2000. The L3 Gold Edition watches are available now via Maurice de Mauriac’s website with prices starting at CHF 14,700. Images from this post: The post Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
The traveler’s watch. The last truly useful sport watch today. The GMT watch has, as much as its sibling the dive watch, remained a cultural icon and a best-seller for brands both big and small. Every collector wants – or at least has considered – a GMT watch of some kind. There is good and bad news to that end. The good news is that watch brands have labored to create GMT watches of all sorts to appeal to every breed of watch enthusiast. The bad news is that money doesn’t grow on trees. Of all the classic watch archetypes, the GMT has always straddled that line between ritzy and rough, and we can separate them into two stylistic buckets: dressy and sporty. While the line between the two is often blurred and the definitions themselves somewhat subjective, we thought it would be fun to see how this useful complication has found its way into watches of all kinds. So without further ado, this is your Sunday Smackdown: GMT Edition. The traveler’s watch. The last truly useful sport watch today. The GMT watch has, as much as its sibling the dive watch, remained a cultural icon and a best-seller for brands both big and small. Every collector wants – or at least has considered – a GMT watch of some kind. There is good and bad news to that end. The good news is that watch brands have labored to create GMT watches of all sorts to appeal to every breed of watch enthusiast. The bad news is that money doesn’t grow on trees. Of all the classic watch archetypes, the GMT h...
Worn & Wound
When you look at Baltic’s lineup, you may have noticed the absence of a field watch. After tackling dive watches, GMTs, and other platforms, all with an eye toward a specific type of vintage elegance, Baltic has released the Hermetique Tourer - their take on the classic go-anywhere, do-anything field watch. Field watches are great, don’t get me wrong, but when so many are built to a specific military specification, they start to get a little bit stale. That’s not the case at all with Baltic’s newest field-ready wrist companion. The Hermétique takes those classic defining elements of a field watch and elevates them with style to fit Baltic’s overall aesthetic. Let’s jump in and take a closer look at this fun, reasonably-priced, and feature-packed entry into a new category of watches from Paris’ own Baltic Watches. $590 Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9039 Dial Green Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Tropic rubber, stainless bracelet Water Resistance 150 meters Dimensions 37 x 46mm Thickness 10.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Integrated, push down Warranty Yes Price $590 Case At first glance, the 37mm case looks surprisingly sleek. In case you missed it, the crown on the right side of the case pushes in to a point where it’s flush with the lines of the case, giving the Hermétique a largely circular appearance. While we tend to praise field and pilot watches for their large, accessible crowns, it’s nic...
Worn & Wound
As hard as it is to create a certifiable hit watch in the cutthroat independent watch space, it’s perhaps even more difficult to deliver on a follow up. The sophomore slump is a real concern, and I imagine many indie darlings have thought long and hard about how to make good on the promise of an exciting, popular debut. Studio Underd0g burst onto the scene a few years ago with colorful chronographs that conjured a surprising variety of culinary delights. Everything from pizza, to blueberries, to their iconic watermelon chronograph, pleasing watch enthusiasts with designs that are pure fun. They’re also quite unapologetically transgressive, and part of the exciting thing about Studio Underd0g is the idea that we’re seeing a brand that exists at an affordable price point write their own rule book. It’s a sensibility that is more attuned with streetwear, or contemporary art, than old-school watchmaking. $900 Hands-On: The 02SERIES Field Watches from Studio Underd0g Avoid the Sophomore Slump Case Stainless steel Movement Sellita Manual Winding SW210-1 Dial Multi layer full lume/sapphire Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 37 x 46mm Thickness 12.6mm Lug Width 18mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $900 So the question really becomes: where do you go artistically after an initial success that’s objectively kind of weird? Thinking it through, a brand like Studio Underd0g has two options. They can double down, get stranger, an...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Sheffield First up this week is a sweet vintage Sheffield “panda” dial chronograph. This gem has a 38mm chrome plated case that is in great shape, with almost no pitting and nice sharp edges. The dial is silver with black sub dials, and it looks fantastic, with clean steel stick hands and a bright orange chronograph seconds hand. This one is powered by the ubiquitous work horse Valjoux 7733 manual wind movement that is clean and runs well per the seller. Vintage chronographs are highly sought after, and “no-name” examples like this Sheffield can go for a very reasonable price, even with a well made and well known movement like the Valjoux 7733. Great chance to get a nice vintage chronograph without breaking the bank. View auction here. Vintage Wittnauer Here’s a gorgeous vintage Wittnauer with an amazing dial. The simple white dial has super cool faceted applied steel hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12, with no date, and simple little dots for the minutes. Big lume filled steel dauphine hands compliment the look. The 33.5mm steel case looks unpolished with nice sharp edges and stylish curved lugs. The original crown is signed with the Wittnauer “W” logo. The manual w...
Worn & Wound
The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is among the great original chronograph designs to which the rules around aging just don’t seem to apply. Whether it’s the original and its many variations, or the modern reinterpretation, which we reviewed here, the Chronograph 1 is a benchmark when it comes to balancing form and function between the dial and case. Since re-introducing the Chronograph 1 in early 2022, a celebration of the watch’s 50th anniversary, Porsche Design has slowly been filling out the collection with interesting variations, largely in line with special releases from Porsche. This latest edition takes a different approach, recalling their past as a military watch, but with a civilian friendly nomenclature: Utility. The newest addition to the Chronograph 1 collection recalls details from military watches of the ‘70s, with many of the small details represented in a slightly altered manner, from unit insignia, to the tritium marking “3H” circled in red – each are repurposed to create a new, more inclusive platform called Utility. Further still, this is more than a visual exercise as the biggest feature of the new watch is the use of titanium carbide for the case, a material developed and patented by Porsche Design. The material is touted as tougher and lighter than what we presume is the titanium variation of the watch, with a titanium glass bead blasted finish on its exterior. The light gray, matte appearance is uniform with contrasting crown and push...
Worn & Wound
More and more, the luxury industry is looking to redefine what it means to be a “neutral” color. Instead of black, why not try a dark red? Instead of tan, a hunter green may do the trick. And if navy is a bit passe, then perhaps a lighter blue has just as much sophistication, but with a bit more impact on the wrist. Or, at least that’s the case with Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Sky Blue. Inspired by summer sunshine and the cloudless skies that accompany it, Hublot’s latest watch is vibrant while remaining refined. To accomplish this balance, Hublot has leaned into their brand identity as a watchmaker that marries technical precision with a robust design language. The watch has a strong presence on the wrist at 42mm, which is enhanced by the added details, such as the metal rivets, crown, and complementary colored strap. The case of the watch itself is made of high-tech, ultra-tough ceramic, something the Swiss brand has become known for in the industry, that gives Hublot a lot of control over the color of their end product. The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is powered by an in-house automatic movement called the Unico. Composed of 354 pieces and providing over 72-hours of power reserve, the Unico HUB1280 movement is a celebration of the Swiss watchmaking tradition. Like many watches in Hublot’s various collections, the Sky Blue has a skeletonized dial, allowing the wearer to witness the internal workings of this watch throughout the day. The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is l...
Worn & Wound
We’re back with a fresh episode of A Week In Watches, covering news from Norqain, Oris, Vulcain, and of course, Linde Werdelin. Additionally, it wouldn’t be a new week without a new collaboration to discuss, and this time it comes courtesy of our friends at Massena LAB and Revolution Magazine in the form of a new, mostly original take on the Uni-Racer Chronograph. Elsewhere, Oris returns to the baseball field to honor the great Milwaukee (okay, and Atlanta) Brave, Hank Aaron with a new colorway of their Big Crown Pointer Date. Another unique configuration of an existing watch released this week is a new Octo Moonphase from Linde Werdelin, who still have a knack for killer case architecture and open dial work. A favorite release this weeks comes from Vulcain, who is once again bringing back the Nautical Cricket, a diving alarm watch with a gnarly inner bezel which includes a full decompression table. This is a historic watch that’s more than just a novelty, it’s got some serious pedigree under its belt that dates back to the early ’60s. Plus, it offers two caseback options, a move we rarely see at this price point. Keep an eye out for more on that one coming soon. Until then, enjoy this week’s episode below. A quick note on a programming change with A Week In Watches: this series will be moving to a bi-monthly format, allowing us more time to bring you a broader selection of curated news, at an even better production quality. A lot of work goes into creating the...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Oris Diver To start this week we have a cool and funky vintage Oris diver. The oval/cushion style chrome plated case is in great shape, with nice sharp edges and factory brushed finish intact. Seller doesn’t state the size but it looks to be on the larger size judging by the placement of the date window. The black dial is super clean, with nicely aged lume hour markers. It has an aluminum elapsed time divers bezel that is also in great shape. The crown is original and is signed with the Oris name. No movement picture, but the seller states it runs well. View auction here. Waltham Ultra-Thin Next up is a stylin’ vintage Waltham in yellow gold fill, complete with box and extras. The gold fill case looks nice and sharp, and has a nifty engine turned bezel similar to the classic Rolex Thunderbird and thin simple lugs. The simple crosshair gold dial has Arabic numerals at 12 and 6, along with a sub-seconds dial just above the 6. No date and gold dauphine hands complete the look. Nice, thin, classy dress watch. Best of all it comes in the original box with some little tags and a hangtag. Again, no movement picture but the seller states it runs well. View auction here. Vintage Bu...
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