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Time+Tide
For the 50th anniversary of the 3159 standard, COSC has introduced a stricter new "Excellence Chronometer" tier of certification.The post COSC unveils stricter new “Excellence Chronometer” standard + A. Lange & Söhne opens new Chicago boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Longines is a storied and well-respected Swiss watch manufacture that formed in 1832 and has continued uninterrupted to this day. From the first wrist chronometer in 1911, to groundbreaking flyback chronographs in the 1930s, to the world’s first hi-beat wrist chronometer in 1959, Longines holds their own in the watchmaking world. My favorite period for watches is the 1950s through the 1970s and Longines was one of the top accessible brands during that time. In 1954 Longines began a marketing strategy of product families, launching the Conquest line of watches. In 1957 they introduced the Flagship line, adding to what would become a large group of watch families, many of which are still made today. Other lines that came later include the Admiral, the Ultra-Chron and the Grand Prize. The Grand Prize line was named in honor of the multitude of watchmaking awards and honors that Longines had accumulated over the decades. It was a relatively short-lived family, produced from about 1958 to 1964 according to my research. I have found that the majority of Longines watches produced during these decades were all fairly equal in quality and craftsmanship, with most of the differences in the families being design related. The Conquests were rugged and sporty, on par with the early non-diver Omega Seamaster watches. The Flagship series were dress watches, while the Admiral line was a mixture of both. The Grand Prize family were pretty much all thin, elegant everyday type dressier w...
Fratello
There’s a certain kind of satisfaction that only a chronograph can offer - the tactile click of the pushers, the sweep of the seconds hand, the quiet excuse to time things that probably do not need timing at all. You know exactly what I mean; we all do it. The problem is that many chronographs […] Visit Hands-On With The Vostra Vector: A Retro-Futuristic Chronograph That’s Built To Be Worn to read the full article.
Monochrome
If I had to describe the return of L.Leroy, once one of France’s most illustrious watchmaking houses, with its name respected as much as those of Breguet and Ferdinand Berthoud, it was very theatrical. Founded in 1785 by Charles Leroy in Paris, it became famous for its marine chronometers, regulator clocks, and commissions for European […]
Hodinkee
The first in a planned series of Experimentale watches, the watch also features a redesigned "Marine" case and dial aesthetic on top of a very impressive movement.
Video
How American is Hamilton? While the watch world rants and raves over premature reactions and cookie cutter content centered on the same new releases at Watches and Wonders, I decided to post something refreshingly dif...
Teddy Baldassarre
When a watch touts on its dial that it is a "Chronometer" or an "Officially Certified Chronometer" or even a "Superlative Chronometer," what exactly does that mean? How does a chronometer watch differ from a watch that does not make that claim? For that matter, a newbie to the timepiece game might ask, what is the difference between a watch with "chronometer" on the dial and a watch with "chronograph" on the dial? In this comprehensive guide, we attempt to answer all of your burning questions about chronometer watches and what sets them apart. [toc-section heading="The Chronometer Throughout History"] Our original, classical definition of a chronometer can be traced back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to determine longitude in order to avoid the perils of running aground or veering hopelessly off course. The man credited with developing the first of these “marine chronometers” was legendary British watchmaker John Harrison; his invention facilitated the celestial navigation used at the time by navigators at sea to determine their ship’s position in coordination with a sextant. Marine chronometers, which were essentially highly accurate clocks mounted on gimbals inside wooden boxes, were among the first portable timepieces and were instrumental in the global seagoing trade that helped build our modern, interconnected world. Ulysse Nardin, foun...
Monochrome
Bovet‘s Récital line has always been where Pascal Raffy lets invention roam free: oversized domes, theatrical displays and genuinely mindblowing complications. The Récital 30 continues that tradition while making a pragmatic, travel-ready turn. Launched as a scaled-down, wearable sibling to the Récital 28, the Récital 30 focuses on one problem and solves it elegantly with […]
Time+Tide
Inspired by the aquatic tones of Fitzroy Island, this LE is the latest watch in Seiko’s Save the Ocean series, supporting marine conservation.The post Save the turtles in style with Seiko’s latest Australasian limited edition, the SRPM04K “Kame” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
French brand Yema got a foothold in the watch world with its rugged tool watches, exemplified by models like the mighty 300 water-resistant Superman skin diver of 1963. Proud of its French roots, Yema secured strategic alliances with the French Navy (Marine Nationale) to develop military tool watches. Based on its 1970s Navygraf dive watch, […]
SJX Watches
Longines continues to mine its archive to good effect with the Ultra-Chron Classic, a faithful reissue of the brand’s pioneering high-frequency wristwatch first launched in 1967. The Ultra-Chron Classic is more than just a remake of a vintage watch. While it has a clean, period-correct vintage aesthetic, the mechanics are entirely modern, namely a high-beat, 5 Hz automatic movement that is both COSC chronometer and TIMELAB certified. Initial thoughts Longines does well at bringing back beloved designs from the past, but built to modern standards. The Ultra-Chron Classic is the latest in a long line of historical reissues that began nearly two decades ago with the bestselling Legend Diver. The Ultra-Chron Classic is impressively faithful to the original in style, but because of that, not especially exciting in terms of design, retaining the all-business look that was common among high-performance gentlemen’s wristwatches of the era; the same criticism could be leveled at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic E168 or IWC Ingenieur ref. 666. In other words, the dial, hands, and indices are mostly true to the source material, but this pared-back look may have a harder time standing out in today’s market than it once did. Dressy? Classic? Or plain? Looks aside, the Ultra-Chron Classic is modern Longines at its best: a solid build, a brand-exclusive movement, proper sizing, and sensible pricing. The movement in particular stands out for being notable high-spec with its 36,000 bea...
Video
watches & Wonders 2026 delivered some incredible timepieces — and in this video, I break down the very best releases from this year’s event.
Fratello
Rolex has always produced watches that I have gravitated towards. For a long time, though, I grappled with some of the modern baggage that the brand has taken on. Modern Rolex sports watches have a certain bling factor that turns me off. The problem is that vintage Rolex watches are either unobtainable or, if I […] Visit I Found My Ultimate Dive Watch: The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded in Paris in 1785 by Charles Leroy, L.Leroy was once one of France’s illustrious watchmaking houses, known for its marine chronometers, high complications and commissions for European royalty. After years of dormancy, the brand, acquired in 2004 by Miguel Rodríguez of the Festina Group, is staging a comeback. Following its first step with a […]
Monochrome
Formex’s Essence line, introduced in 2018, quickly earned respect as the brand’s versatile, go-anywhere sports watch, combining sharp case architecture, great engineering, and chronometer-certified accuracy. In 2020, the collection took on a cosmic turn with the debut of the Space Rock editions, featuring dials cut from the ancient Muonionalusta meteorite. Over time, these rare cosmic […]
SJX Watches
Voutilainen recently completed a custom commission with the 28 Kohan, a one-off example of its signature chronometer wristwatch that blends Finnish cultural symbols with Japanese decorative arts. Much of the decoration on the watch is maki-e, traditional Japanese lacquer, that is the work of artisan Tatsuo Kitamura, a frequent collaborator who was also responsible for past Voutilainen maki-e timepieces. Initial Thoughts Unique pieces and commissioned watches were historically the norm at the highest end of the watch market, which was then much smaller. Clients could be more demanding, and for the watchmaker, the risk of being unable to find a buyer was very real. Today off-the-rack watches dominate, largely for commercial and production reasons. Even brands with a long history of bespoke or custom watchmaking eschew custom dial colours. Some, however, keep the practice alive, like Vacheron Constantin with its Les Cabinotiers. Many independents also remain amenable to customisation, even established names that no longer need to, like Voutilainen, albeit with a long wait. Bespoke watches are inherently difficult to criticise – such watches are a success as long as the commissioner is satisfied, even if it’s the most hideous thing ever. Fortunately that isn’t the case here, the adjective that comes to mind is bedazzling. I suspect maximalist designs are often common on Voutilainen’s custom watches because collectors want to make the most of the opportunity. Some deta...
Teddy Baldassarre
When Tudor released the Pelagos FXD in late 2021 an important element of the brand's heritage was brought to light with it. A rich history of working with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale, was now being tied to a modern creation from Tudor in a new partnership. While the history brings an unusual depth to this watch (no pun intended), it’s the manner in which the Tudor Pelagos FXD has been executed that has made it truly interesting to a modern audience. This wasn’t a throwback design commemorating the past. Rather, this was a function-forward, modern design, built to spec for a niche group of divers in the French Navy. The FXD is a natural evolution of the Pelagos ethos, and its slightly unconventional approach has cemented its place in the hearts of many enthusiasts. Tudor took a slightly different route with the FXD when compared to the existing Pelagos references. The watch was designed with input from the Marine Nationale’s Commando Hubert unit in order to better suit its combat divers' needs for a specific maneuver they employed while traversing underwater. This maneuver would have them swimming segments in a set direction for a set period of time, before adjusting time and direction to tackle subsequent sections. To better assist in this exercise, the fully indexed bezel is bidirectional, and counts down rather than tracks elapsed time. This allows for fast, precise movement (this is a 120-click bezel), and no ambiguity when measuring a pre-set lengt...
Video
Last year, Laurent Ferrier introduced the Classic Traveller Globe Night Blue. It was the brand’s perspective on the modern traveler’s watch. It featured a date window at three, a home time window at nine, and a ni...
Fratello
As a die-hard collector of vintage watches, I’ve grown to appreciate the right accessories to pair with my treasured pieces. Straps are a great option, and we’ve devoted plenty of articles to reviewing them. However, an appropriate bracelet is the chef’s kiss. The problem is that authentic bracelets are difficult to find and are often […] Visit Hands-On With The New Gold-Plated Forstner Bracelets to read the full article.
Monochrome
If you own mechanical Swiss watches, one of them potentially came to you with a COSC chronometer certificate. But not everyone knows exactly what this certificate means. The COSC is the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres or the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. COSC certifies Swiss-made movements or watches as chronometers (not to be confused […]
Fratello
Brellum releases many small runs of watches during any given year, so I was surprised to find that it’s been nearly six months since our last review. Now we’re back with a look at the new Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase LE Chronometer. Yes, that’s a mouthful, but the welcome news is that the watch now […] Visit Introducing: The Salmon-Dial Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing the 2024 TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 collection: now featuring a new chronometer movement, refined case ergonomics, and a redesigned wave-pattern dial.
SJX Watches
In celebration of birthday, Zenith presents a trio of chronographs entirely in blue ceramic, the 160th Anniversary Editions of the Chronometer Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Big Date Flyback. Each retains the specifications of its steel equivalent, with the only distinction being the case and bracelet material. Initial thoughts Best known for the El Primero high-beat automatic chronograph, Zenith arguably does best at chronographs, and that’s exactly what it’s doing for its anniversary. The reimagining of Zenith’s best-known models in blue ceramic is on trend – maybe a bit too trendy – with brands like Audemars Piguet having already done it. That said, the anniversary trilogy does offer a striking new alternative to anyone seeking an El Primero with a whole new aesthetic. The use of ceramic for both the case and bracelet, however, means each of the trilogy models is notably pricier than the equivalent model in steel. That’s acceptable for an anniversary limited edition, but not quite the same value proposition as the steel variants. Blue ceramic The Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Big Date Flyback each retain the same dimensions and movement as their respective steel models, except that the case and bracelet are now in blue ceramic modelled on Zenith’s signature hue. According to Zenith, blue ceramic was an undertaking that involved months of research and development. Blue ceramic is significantly more challenging to finish...
Video
Tudor Novelties 2026 are here — and this is a big year for the brand. With the debut of an entirely new collection, major updates to the Black Bay lineup, and meaningful technical upgrades across the catalogue, Tudo...
Fratello
The King Seiko 45KS is a lesson in finding value in vintage. Unlike its modern counterparts, this King Seiko offers a fiercely large amount of watch for the money. Depending on its condition, the 45KS can be found on the secondary market for €900–1,500. Modern Seiko has a problem. It’s not rival brands, such as […] Visit Value In Vintage With The King Seiko 45KS to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The prolific observatory chronometer calibre is back.The post Has the Zenith G.F.J. actually achieved perfection? Maybe, and the Calibre 135 certainly helps. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
For a long time, Zenith kept us guessing about what its celebratory 160th-anniversary release would be. But if you know something about Zenith, the social media posts hinted at something special related to the brand’s rich history in observatory chronometer competitions. With the release of the Zenith G.F.J., the watchmaker from Le Locle brings its […] Visit Zenith Celebrates Its 160th Anniversary In Style With The New G.F.J. to read the full article.
Monochrome
On the occasion of its 160th anniversary, Zenith celebrates its legacy in the field of precision watchmaking, bringing back to life the venerable calibre 135, the most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. In 2022, Zenith released an exclusive limited edition of 10 watches, powered by vintage 135-O movements, restored and […]
Hodinkee
The brand's latest limited edition dive watch supports a new marine research center in the Philippines.
Video
Rolex Novelties 2026 are here — and this might be one of the most talked-about releases in recent years. From a controversial new Oyster Perpetual to the return of the Yacht-Master II, plus the apparent discontinuat...
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