WristBuzz
Two Saxon Legends, One Porcelain Dial: Glashütte Original's Senator Cherry Blossom Meissen
The latest GO x Meissen collab brings a hand-painted Jugatsu-zakura cherry blossom dial to the Senator family
Results for Powermatic 80 (ETA C07.111)
1,103 articles · 44 videos found · page 25 of 39
WristBuzz
Worn & Wound
These are Six Discontinued Watches We’d Like to See Make a Comeback
When you work in a world about objects that measure time, you are confronted daily with the finite nature of things – nothing lasts forever. Speaking a bit less existentially, we see certain products come and go all throughout our lives. A brand changes its logo. A restaurant changes a recipe. A watchmaker retires a favorite model. To us, these changes can feel abrupt – like it happened overnight. However, I can say confidently after many years of factory tours that the watch industry most certainly doesn’t take change lightly. For each watch design we love, there is prototyping, tooling, machining, programming of that machining, training – an endless list of resources and time that go into bringing every detail of a particular model to life. To change that or do away with it altogether is a carefully considered decision that impacts the bottom line. Now, yes, there is a flipside that’s pervasive in this industry – exclusivity – and I am equally certain this comes into play when discussions about discontinuing a collection arise. A huge part of the watch world is fueled on scarcity and hype, and brands know the frenzy that’s likely to ensue when a beloved model is suddenly no longer available. So here I am to give the brands what they want – a beg, a wish, a plea or at least some well-deserved adoration for some discontinued models that we would like to see make a comeback. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph The launch of the original Datograph. Image courtesy A...
Worn & Wound
The Science of Colored Ceramic Through Three New Hues in Earthen Company’s Summit MK II
It started with a topic that’s readily on watch collectors’ minds over the past few years in particular – a topic we even discussed on a recent podcast: watch prices are climbing and pricing younger collectors out of the hobby. Jonathan Chan, a collector himself and co-founder of The Horology Society (a Hong-Kong based global collector community), decided to create the brand he wanted to see in the market. After two years of conceptualization, research, development, and prototyping, he founded Earthen Company in 2025 with a mission to democratize watches with a focus on high-tech ceramic and a goal to keep price tags below $1,000. The brand’s inaugural offering, the Summit Collection, presented a mix of old and new, past and present with dichotomy of vintage pilot and field watch design codes rendered in modern ceramic. Over the past year, Earthen Company’s offerings have continued to expand with an evolution of the original line called the Summit Mark II and a totally new addition with the Aventurine Collection. The Summit MK II refined the composition of the collection that started it all. It retained the original proportions and signature ceramic build while upgrading the finer details like dial symmetry and legibility. Now, we get the latest additions to the MK II lineup with a trio of new colors.As a journalist in this industry for the better part of almost 15 years, I’m often a bit underwhelmed when the headline of a new release is simply a new colorway. ...
Hodinkee
The Rolex Four Seasons Daytona Collection Sells For A Combined $49.4M
Tonight in London, four one-of-a-kind Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytonas were auctioned off for a combined total of $49.4M (£37.3M GBP). Rumored at Watches and Wonders this year and confirmed earlier this month, the sale was held in partnership with Phillips, with Aurel Bacs conducting, and was billed by Phillips as Rolex's first charity auction. Proceeds benefit two organizations tied to Rolex Testimonees: the Federer Foundation, founded by Roger Federer, and Re:wild, co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio, in support of Rolex's Perpetual Planet Initiative. Left: "Spring" Daytona, in white gold with a chrysoprase dial and lepidolite countersRight: "Summer" Daytona, in Everose gold with a turquoise dial and ruby counters All four are cased in precious metal, with natural stone dials and gem-setting. The winter Daytona, in platinum with a blue opal dial and lapis lazuli counters, went for $13.2M (£10M GBP). The autumn Daytona, in yellow gold with a mookaite dial and chrysoprase counters, went for $13.5M (£10.2M GBP). The spring Daytona, in white gold with a chrysoprase dial and lepidolite counters, went for $9M (£6.8M GBP), and the summer Daytona, in Everose gold with a turquoise dial and ruby counters, went for $13.65M (£10.3M GBP). Paul Newman's Paul Newman Daytona changed the entire market for Daytonas, and watches as a whole., way back in 2017. They say things come in threes, and tonight's sale could be considered the third in a trio of seminal auction sales in th...
WristBuzz
Vacheron Constantin Marks 30 Years of the Overseas with a Limited Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in White Gold
A new azure dial and an 18K white gold case breathe fresh life into one of the thinnest full perpetual calendars in production
WristBuzz
MeisterSinger NL Edition Tulip 2026: One Hand, One Flower, One Market
The German single-hand specialists go Dutch again, this time with a tulip on the dial
Monochrome
First Look - The Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table “The Metamorph Merlin”
In 2005, Roger Dubuis launched the Excalibur, an imposing 45mm watch that established many of the key aesthetic traits and mechanical audacity that characterise the “hyper horology” the brand practises today. The Knights of the Round Table collection, introduced in 2013, was conceived as a celebration of métiers d’art and took the Arthurian legend to […]
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Supports Paris Brain Institute with Unique Chronomètre Furtif
Having recently unveiled a unique burgundy chronograph to benefit the Fondation Prince Albert II De Monaco, F.P. Journe is back with the unique Chronomètre Furtif ICM that will be auctioned later this month to support the work of the Institut du Cerveau et de la Moelle épinièhe (ICM), better known internationally as the Paris Brain Institute. The black enamel dial of the CF ICM. Image – F.P. Journe Initial thoughts F.P. Journe is a watchmaker at the height of its market influence, so its nice to see the brand use its considerable power to continue its longstanding practice of contributing to worthwhile causes. ICM was founded by former FIA president Jean Todt, a longtime friend of François-Paul Journe who also informed the concept behind the Centigraphe. The unique Centigraphe from 2016 featured a blue mother-of-pearl dial with the ICM logo at 12 o’clock. Image – F.P. Journe The Geneva-based watchmaker was the ICM’s first private donor, and has contributed significantly over the past two decades. The brand’s first contributions arrived in 2004 by way of a trio of unique Vagabondage watches auctioned by Antiquorum. The three lots hammered for between CHF63,250 and CHF80,500, with all proceeds going to ICM. A unique Centigraphe was produced for the charity in 2016, when it hammered for the equivalent of about US$136,000 at the time. An impressive sum for that era, but a number that highlights just how much demand for independent watchmaking — and F.P. Journe ...
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Supports Brain Research with Unique Chronomètre Furtif
Having recently unveiled a unique burgundy chronograph to benefit the Fondation Prince Albert II De Monaco, F.P. Journe is back with the unique Chronomètre Furtif ICM that will be auctioned later this month to support the work of the Institut du Cerveau et de la Moelle épinièhe (ICM), better known internationally as the Paris Brain Institute. The black enamel dial of the CF ICM. Image – F.P. Journe Initial thoughts F.P. Journe is a watchmaker at the height of its market influence, so its nice to see the brand use its considerable power to continue its longstanding practice of contributing to worthwhile causes. ICM was founded by former FIA president Jean Todt, a longtime friend of François-Paul Journe who also informed the concept behind the Centigraphe. The unique Centigraphe from 2016 featured a blue mother-of-pearl dial with the ICM logo at 12 o’clock. Image – F.P. Journe The Geneva-based watchmaker was the ICM’s first private donor, and has contributed significantly over the past two decades. The brand’s first contributions arrived in 2004 by way of a trio of unique Vagabondage watches auctioned by Antiquorum. The three lots hammered for between CHF63,250 and CHF80,500, with all proceeds going to ICM. A unique Centigraphe was produced for the charity in 2016, when it hammered for the equivalent of about US$136,000 at the time. An impressive sum for that era, but a number that highlights just how much demand for independent watchmaking — and F.P. Journe ...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On Impressions of the New Bremont Terra Nova 35mm Jumping Hour Watches
Maybe this would be better saved for a Hot Takes episode of the podcast, but I’ll go ahead and spill it here instead: the new Bremont Terra Nova 35mm Jumping Hour watches are the best they’ve made since the big rebrand a few years ago. The fact that they are part of the Terra Nova collection is itself interesting, as this collection in particular was met with so much skepticism (including by us) when they were launched. But now, over two years removed from the drama of the brand’s big shift, there is a real sense that they’ve settled in, and the watches, when laid out on a table together in the way you experience them at a Geneva Watch Days meeting, feel more coherent. I’ve always felt that these Terra Nova Jumping Hour watches were charming, but there was something a little ungainly about the size. The smaller montre à guichet style jump hour pieces at 38mm in diameter, wear every bit of that dimension and a little more simply because most of what you see when you look down to check the time is bare metal. The larger 40.5mm Jumping Hour pieces with an aperture arrangement running right to left across the dial felt similarly oversized for a complication that historically is characterized as something kind of delicate. But when I picked up the new 35mm pieces, particularly the montre à guichet on a bracelet, the size felt really dialed in. I’ve been thinking a lot about the “correct” size for certain watches after reviewing smaller versions of Moser’...
WristBuzz
Panerai Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01794: 100 Years of the Florence Boutique, One Very Special Limited Edition
A boutique centenary gives Panerai an excuse to go deep on heritage, and for once, it actually lands.
SJX Watches
The People Have Spoken: Seiko’s Crowd Favourite 62MAS
Last year Seiko let fans vote on which of four vibrant dial colours would adorn an upcoming diver, and the people made the right choice, picking this vibrant Daytime Blue for the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver Fan-Selected HBC011. While a bit late to hit the beach, the latest 62MAS homage maintains all that was already good about Seiko divers, namely looks and tenacity, with key upgrades to the bracelet, for a reasonable price. Initial Thoughts Last year marked 6o years of Seiko diver’s watches, which can be traced back to the original 62MAS (refs. 6217-8000 and -8001) launched in 1965. Seiko let the many fans of its diver’s watches decide how to celebrate, giving collectors a choice of four colourways: Sunrise Orange; Daytime Blue; Late Afternoon Green; and Sunset Red. The online poll was open for the entire month of July, which was long enough for me “to get around to later” but short enough that it had already closed by the time I remembered to vote. Unsurprisingly, the trendiest colour, and the one I would have voted for, Daytime Blue, won. From left to right: Sunrise Orange; Daytime Blue; Late Afternoon Green; and Sunset Red. Seiko has disclosed no plans to bring the other three colourways to market at this time. The vibrant blue and stamped dial make the HBC011 stand out from the pack of 62MAS-inspired models, though it changes the character of the watch so entirely that this bubbly beach watch doesn’t feel like a 62MAS at all. Which is a good thing, as the mo...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Nomos Orion Gold Neomatik “New Black” Edition
The Orion is one of Nomos Glashütte’s most formal series, with the restrained proportions and curved case design that have defined the collection since its introduction. The new Orion Gold Neomatik “New Black” pairs an 18k yellow gold case with a deep black dial and fine golden details. The combination relies on the contrast between […]
WristBuzz
AnOrdain Model 1 Porcelain: Glasgow's Finest Gets a Custom Font and a Fired Porcelain Dial
The Scottish brand's second porcelain dial watch brings a bespoke Breguet-inspired typeface and a collaboration with designer Kia Tasbihgou
WristBuzz
Perrelet Goes Deep on Stone Dials With New Weekend Collection Additions
More mineral magic from the Swiss brand, straight off the show floor at WWG26
Deployant
Live from GWD26: Frederique Constant Classics Moneta | Hands-on Impressions
Next I was at the Frederique Constant suite, and handled the Classics Moneta with a "in-house" La Joux Perret movement and pitched below CHF 2k.
SJX Watches
The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns
Having remade – and refined – its first-ever wristwatch, Louis Vuitton now does the same for the second. The Monterey Ceramic is a reimagining of the LV II of 1988, preserving the Gae Aulenti-designed case and dial but in modern, high-end materials and execution. As with the earlier Monterey in 18k gold, the new model in ceramic does away with the quartz movement of the 1988 original and replaces it with an in-house automatic calibre. The case has been scaled up a little to accommodate the calibre, but retains the proportions and quirky form of the original. But unlike last year’s model, the Monterey Ceramic is regular production. Initial thoughts The Monterey Ceramic is basically a more affordable iteration of last year’s limited edition in 18k gold. It retains the same design, movement, but replaces gold with ceramic (and steel), and the fired enamel dial with a lacquered one. Even with these changes, the Monterey Ceramic is still a far more sophisticated watch than its 1988 inspiration. I like the styling of the 1988 originals, and the modern-day reissues both manage to capture the look and feel of the originals. The Monterey Ceramic in particular sticks to the case diameter of the original, albeit a little thicker, but sticks closely enough to the proportions of the LV II. The Monterey Ceramic is priced like a modern-day luxury watch, but it has the intrinsic features to justify the price. The Monterey Ceramic costs €19,000 before taxes, which is less than a ...
SJX Watches
Breitling Reissues Miles Davis’ Navitimer
To commemorate Miles Davis’ many decades as a Navitimer man, Breitling has introduced the Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis, based on the ref. 806 Mk5 favoured by the pioneering jazz musician. Limited to 500 pieces in steel — plus 50 more that are part of a three-watch set with counterparts in 18k yellow gold and platinum — the watch is available on an optional Air Racer bracelet, which makes a triumphant return. Initial thoughts Breitling has positioned this release as a commemorative watch for a singular musician, but it will likely appeal beyond Miles Davis fans. The design is tasteful without any overt references to Davis, with the only specific reference being the subtle case back engraving. The Miles Davis edition follows a formula established by Breitling’s very popular Navitimer ref. 806 reissue and the subsequent Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, and should prove tempting to collectors who missed out on those editions or who simply objected to the Cosmonaute’s 24-hour format. The return of the Air Racer bracelet on this edition is a surprise, since Miles Davis usually chose to accessorise his Navitimer with a black leather bund strap. Despite that incongruence, the Air Racer is period-correct and has been very nicely executed and updated. As a design it won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but I commend Breitling for experimenting with avant-garde bracelet designs like this, much like Zenith has done with the El Primero’s vintage-inspired ...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Richard Mille RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago
Launched just a few weeks ago, the RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago is modelled on the Colnago C68, the same road bike used by Tadej Pogacar, the current Tour de France champion who has long worn a Richard Mille while racing. Though new, the RM 64-01 is still quintessential Richard Mille in form, substance, and price. The watch is large, lightweight, and exceptionally, satisfyingly ergonomic. As is tradition, the RM64-01 movement is the work of Audemars Piguet Le Locle, formerly known as Renaud Papi. The case material is made by longtime partner NTPT, a Swiss carbon composites specialist. And in the great tradition of Richard Mille, the RM 64-01 is very expensive. Tadej Pogacar with the RM 64-01. Image – Richard Mille Initial thoughts The RM 64-01 is the typical large format tonneau-shaped case shared with most current Richard Mille models. At about 43 mm wide, almost 50 mm long, and over 14 mm tall, the case is big, but sits perfectly on the wrist thanks to its curvature and lightness. And while thick, integrated rubber straps normally detract from wearability, the strap adds to the ergonomics of the RM 64-01. The watch is almost entirely in bright white, with accents of bright blue and rose gold — it makes a statement, even from a distance, as most Richard Mille watches do. But zoom in past the over-the-top aesthetics and the movement reveals fine detailing. The blue and white bridges are all titanium, but painted by hand to mimic the Colnago C68 bike frame. The tradition...
Fratello
Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001
The introduction of the distinctly different-shaped Cubitus collection in October 2024 didn’t go unnoticed. Patek Philippe stated that the Cubitus collection’s mission is “to offer a new reinterpretation of the ‘elegant, sporty’ style” through a design in which the square bezel adopts rounded corners, “blending the square, the circle, and the octagon.” When you look at the basic […] Visit Looking Through The Blinds: A Peek At The Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 to read the full article.
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - The History of Metal Bracelets for Wristwatches
With few exceptions, metal bracelets are a 20th-century phenomenon, really surfacing in the 1920s as wristwatches became a cultural and fashion phenomenon. Three names are generally recognised as part of the rise of contemporary bracelets – Rolex, Gérald Genta and Gay Frères – although there’s much more to the story, and the latter arguably plays the […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: Laps Leaps into New Territory with the Arche, their First Mechanical Model
What started as a fashion watch brand a decade ago is making a leap into more traditional watchmaking territory. Laps has introduced its first mechanical model, the Arche as part of a new Studio Series. The collection consists of four iterations, two with simple textured dials and two that take on one of classic watchmaking’s key artforms: enamel. The dial is arguably the main focus of nearly all watches. It conveys the most pertinent information and serves as the aesthetic centerpiece. When French designer and art collector Antonin Mercie created Laps in 2016, he took the emphasis on the dial a step further – this would not just be the core focus of the watches but the core focus of the brand. Examples of watches from the Laps “Signature” collection The base of the original Editions models varies slightly but overall carries a vintage aesthetic hailing from the funky eras of 70s and 80s watchmaking. Both the Prima and the Signature cases are rectangular, with the former being slightly smaller and squarer at 28mm by 23mm and the latter slightly larger and more rectangular at 35mm by 26mm. Each is topped off with the option of a leather strap or bracelet whose design is aligned with the retro theme, mimicking a stretch bracelet in texture but presented in a traditional manner with a buckle closure. Powering the models in the Editions series are straightforward, time-only quartz movements. All of this lays the foundation for the star of the show – the dials – whi...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date, Now in Two-Tone Editions
Following its global relaunch in 2024 with Patrik Hoffmann at the helm, Favre Leuba retains the spirit of its historical tool watches but with a new focus on extreme wearability. Famous for engineering innovative, well-equipped tool watches, Hoffmann has revisited some of Favre Leuba’s vintage stars in a more contemporary key with slimmer cases and […]
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: Collective Horology CEO Asher Rapkin And Liberty Justice Center Chairman And CEO Sara Albrecht On Suing Trump Over Tariffs
This week on The Business of Watches, Collective Horology co-founder and Chief Executive Asher Rapkin joins us. He brought his lawyer. While Collective is a Ventura, California-based retailer of independent watch brands, including Armin Strom, Czapek, Fears, Ming and J.N. Shapiro, Sara Albrecht is the chairman and CEO of The Liberty Justice Center. That's the non-profit litigation firm that led the legal fight successfully challenging President Trump's initial round of tariffs all the way to the Supreme Court of the United States. They won in a surprise decision that ruled the President didn't have the authority to impose levies that increased the cost of importing goods into the U.S., including Swiss-made watches. The government is now in the process of refunding the approximately $166 billion businesses paid out. Asher Rapkin, co-founder and CEO of Collective Horology in Ventura, California. Of course, the Trump administration found a workaround and immediately slapped on new tariffs and, on July 24, initiated levies of 10% and 12.5% on imported goods, including Swiss-made watches. That's the day that Collective Horology and another importer (dealing in exotic spices), filed a lawsuit against the President and various bodies and individuals in the administration including U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer. Rapkin explains why his business decided to challenge the tariff laws and take on the President and his administration, while Albrecht lays out the legal...
Time+Tide
Papar Cenote Diver: Utilitarian Brutalist Whimsy
Papar Watch Co is an exciting, husband-and-wife-led brand from Mexico, and its watches feature some of the boldest, unique details out there
WatchRider
Casio GWR-B3000 Gravitymaster Pre-Orders Open With New TOUGH MVT.2
Casio’s new flagship aviation G-Shock is no longer just a launch announcement. UK pre-orders are now open for the GWR-B3000 Gravitymaster family, introducing a metal-supported structure, sapphire crystal and the first major evolution of Casio’s TOUGH MVT. analogue movement in 18 years. Three versions are entering the runway: the black-and-silver GWR-B3000-1A, the blue GWR-B3000A-2A and the coordinated grey GWR-B3000B-8A. All share the same Japanese-made construction, Tough Solar power, Multiband 6 radio control, Bluetooth connectivity and Triple G Resist protection. The choice is therefore about colour and finishing rather than accepting fewer functions on the least expensive model. UK pre-orders are open now Casio UK lists all three watches for pre-order, with expected delivery in four to six weeks. The GWR-B3000-1A costs £750, the blue GWR-B3000A-2A is £800 and the grey GWR-B3000B-8A reaches £870. Casio’s European pages mark the collection as new for August 2026; published European pricing is €799 for the 1A and €899 for both coloured versions. Official US pricing has not yet been announced. For international context only, conversions of the current British prices are approximately $1,010, $1,075 and $1,165 respectively. Those are currency conversions, not US recommended retail prices, so taxes and Casio’s eventual regional positioning may produce different numbers. ReferenceUK priceEuropean priceApprox. USDGWR-B3000-1A£750€799About $1,010GWR-B3000A-2A...
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: Inside Lorier Watches' Acquisition With Lorenzo Ortega And Blake Malin
This week on The Business of Watches, a breaking news story, of sorts. Our friends at Worn & Wound have acquired Lorier Watches. It's a story of success for the New York-based boutique brand that started way back in 2017 with a mission to make vintage-inspired watches, designed to be worn every day, at an approachable price. In a way, it's a tale of too much success. Lorier co-founders, the husband and wife team Lauren Ortega and Lorenzo Ortega, struggled with the rapid growth of the small company, and the inability to meet demand for their products took a toll on the two-person operation. They considered winding up the brand, as it were, but a talk with Blake Malin, the co-founder of the well-established content, retail, and watch event company Worn & Wound, also based in New York, set them on a different path. Lorier founders Lorenzo Ortega (right) and Lauren Ortega (left). Worn & Wound co-founder and CEO Blake Malin. The acquisition of Lorier is the first time Worn & Wound has acquired a watch brand. Malin and Lorenzo Ortega join us to talk about how the deal came about and what's next for both Lorier and Worn & Wound. Though Ortega spent his formative years in Geneva until he was about 18, it's a decidedly American business story in the watch industry. There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so...
![Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics]](https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/f2731bf2-0cca-4542-9684-53f30c9ce71d/doxa-topper-tgraph-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&w=2000)
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics]
What We Know Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water (sorry), California-based retailer Topper Jewelers has released a limited edition take on Doxa's recently refreshed SUB 200 T.Graph II. This crispy, white-dialed variant comes fast on the heels of Doxa's own re-issue of its legendary dive chronograph. The name "Great White" obviously references the dial color, but is also a tribute to the Bay Area's notorious offshore aquatic apex predators, Carcharodon carcharias, the great white shark. To refresh your memory, the T.Graph was Doxa's first dive chronograph, originally released in 1969 with three dial color versions—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), and Searambler (silver). Horological historians tend to agree that only 300 of each color were made, making it a rare and coveted watch for vintage collectors and Doxaphiles. While a limited-edition version was released back in 2017, including a solid-gold variant, Doxa finally rewarded fans last month with the non-limited T.Graph II. This new evolution is a faithful interpretation, but updated with a slimmer case, automatic movement, and a new (for the chronograph) colorway—the Caribbean (blue). Now, in limited numbers, comes the further-evolved "Great White" from Doxa retailer Topper, based in Burlingame, California. This isn't Topper's first foray into Doxa limited editions. Two years ago, the company collaborated with the Swiss brand on a "Great White" SUB 300 that sported a pearly white dia...
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Reimagines the Excalibur as Samurai Art
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur “The Kabuto Legacy” transforms the brand’s monumental Excalibur case into a showcase for Japanese history and miniature craftsmanship. Thematically similar to the the Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, the samurai-inspired dial centres around a contemporary interpretation of an Edo-period castle with 12 individually hand-engraved pink gold kabuto, each based on the distinctive helmet of a historical warrior. Initial thoughts Watches like the Excalibur Kabuto are not ‘watches’ in the typical sense, and only make sense through an artistic lens. Collectors who spend a lot of time in the spec sheets will likely come away unimpressed, but with only 28 pieces being made, the Excalibur Kabuto represents a sub-segment of haute horlogerie that treats the watch case as a miniature art gallery. While some may be indifferent to the samurai motif, the quality of work — from the hand-engraved helmets on the dial to the laser-engraved precision of the crests in the rotor — is remarkable. Furthermore, the playful minimalism of the Edo castle, which from some angles looks like an enormous faceted sapphire, is an inspired work of miniature architecture. The case is identical to that of the KRT collection. It’s 45 mm and nearly 17 mm thick — height that accommodates a sapphire crystal ring underneath the bezel. This elaborate construction helps flood the miniature sculptures with light and provides a better look at the engraving work. In...
SJX Watches
Swatch Debuts MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969
In the run-up to the 57th anniversary of mankind’s first steps on the moon, Swatch has launched the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969, a watch that follows the proven MoonSwatch formula but enhances the value proposition with a substantial amount of 18k MoonShine gold. In fact, the 11 g of 18k gold contained in the dial, crown, and pushers is worth nearly twice the retail price of the watch at today’s spot price. In addition to the historical “OM” designation found at six o’clock, the dial is also engraved “Au 750” denoting its solid gold construction. Initial thoughts The anniversary of the moon landing, which took place July 21, 1969, is an annual reminder of the Omega Speedmaster’s legendary status as ‘the moon watch’. It’s an old story, but it remains a good one. The MoonSwatch leans heavily on this heritage, and the latest iteration is arguably the greatest, borrowing several aesthetic motifs from the so-called “Nixon” Speedmasters that were gifted to American astronauts and government officials — namely the gold dial and black inlay for the hands and dial markers. Substantively, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is much like any other MoonSwatch, with a plastic case that’s a dead ringer for that of the Speedmaster Professional. An ETA quartz chronograph ticks inside, and the battery — now protected by a scratch-resistant cover — is accessible from the case back. That said, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is an atypical Moon...