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Monochrome
Shellman is a renowned watch retailer in Tokyo, represented by independent brands and a curated selection of vintage watches. Over the years, Shellman has commissioned limited editions from refined Swiss brands like Habring and Andersen Genève. The latest collaboration is with Raymond Weil, and the watch selected by Shellman is the Millesime Centre Seconds, the […]
Monochrome
This is it, the 2024 Oscars of the Watchmaking industry, the so-called Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève or GPHG 2024, is about to begin and the best watches introduced during the year are about to be awarded. From ladies’ watches to chronographs and exceptional mechanical proposals, the entire spectrum of watch production is covered. For […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Among the many decisions facing a prospective watch buyer before pulling the trigger on a new timepiece, is choosing which type of strap or bracelet it should have. We covered the various types of watch straps in this article; read on for our rundown of the most popular watch bracelets, focusing on some of the influential, proprietary styles from brands like Rolex and Breitling, which have impacted numerous other brands’ designs, as well as more niche-oriented options geared to collectors and historical-minded enthusiasts. Oyster Bracelet Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet is the template from which many other three-link bracelet styles have been drawn. Its name comes from its association with the Oyster case, which Rolex first introduced in 1926 and for which the original version of this bracelet served as an extension. Oyster bracelets are recognizable for their wide center links bordered by thinner end-links. Rolex patented the design in 1947 and fitted one on a watch in 1948. In the early versions, the links were riveted; these were phased out in favor of a “folding” style in 1967, which eventually gave way to the modern, solid-link style in 1975. Three-link bracelets like the Oyster and its various descendants are particularly popular on sports watches and dive watches. President Bracelet The Rolex Day-Date appeared on the market in 1956 and with it came a new three-link bracelet called the President. Intended as the epitome of Rolex’s luxurious bracelet optio...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille The Seamaster DeVille line was Omega’s dressier version of their sporty Seamaster. This example looks much like the Geneve line they put out, with its simple round case and thin bezel with straight skinny lugs. Very clean and classic 1960’s dress watch look, especially with the gold cap case. The 34-35mm case is in nice shape, and the gold cap is holding up strong. The original silver dial looks good, with a few specks here and there. The watch has the correct and original crown, and also comes with the original seven-row beads of rice bracelet! Seller states the watch runs and keeps time, so you’re all set for your next cocktail party! View auction here 1970s Initial Dynamic Here’s a wild one for you, a vintage 1970’s direct read/jump hour from Initial Dynamic. Don’t worry if you’ve never heard of them, I haven’t either! But that doesn’t mean this isn’t a super cool looking watch. Check out that oval ‘dial’, with the awesome direct read window on the left, and matching date window on the right. The chrome plated case is excellent, with sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The strap looks original to me, with a cool met...
SJX Watches
As its collection of decorative, high-end timepieces reaches its fifth decade, Seiko commemorates the occasion with the Credor 50th Anniversary Eichi II (ref. GBLT996) for the occasion. Limited to just 30 watches, this is the very first Eichi in yellow gold. The anniversary edition features a deep blue, ruri porcelain dial and the hand-finished Spring Drive cal. 7R14 inside. Like the other Credor Masterpiece models, the new Eichi II is produced at the Micro Artist Studio, a small workshop dedicated to artisanal watchmaking. Initial thoughts The new Eichi II is largely identical to the versions in platinum and rose gold, differing only in the case metal. It does, however, look very different. Although the ruri dial is identical to that on the platinum model, the colours seem richer here. Yellow gold and blue is a combination that works well, and it is particularly appealing here, perhaps because of the simplicity of the design. Notably, the anniversary Eichi II is priced in between the regular production versions in rose gold and platinum. Considering the small number made and the intrinsic quality of the watch, it is certainly a compelling proposition. Ruri glaze First found on the platinum model, the dark blue dial is finished with ruri, a type of glaze that results in a glossy, deep blue finish that varies in hue with the light. Instead of the stark white indices found on the platinum model, the dial markings here are in gold. However, the markings are more elaborate th...
SJX Watches
A watch that exemplifies the ambitious vertical integration of Louis Vuitton’s watch division, the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour combines a skeleton tourbillon movement with a plique-à-jour enamel dial. Transparent and akin to stained glass, plique-à-jour enamel is rare in watchmaking, with only a handful of brands having accomplished it. But this specific form on the Voyager tourbillon, which goes without any backing under the dial, is even more uncommon. Because there is no base for the dial, the transparency of both the dial and the movement is maximised. Initial thoughts The original version of this watch, essentially identical but without the enamel dial, was launched in 2016. Louis Vuitton didn’t get much attention as a watchmaker then, though I liked the watch, particularly the slim profile and open-worked movement made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). The quality of the watch indicated Louis Vuitton was going places as a watch brand. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since then as a watchmaker. It now boasts several automaton wristwatches, the Rexhep Rexhepi RR01 collaboration, and its own prize for independent watchmakers. Appropriately enough, the Voyager tourbillon has been enhanced, reflecting the substantial expansion and development of LFT since 2016. The movement, dial, and case are all made in-house at LFT, reflecting Louis Vuitton’s impressive manufacture that now rivals some of the most prominent names in haute horlog...
Fratello
On February 1st, as usual, Patek Philippe communicated the new list prices to its authorized dealers. We also got the yearly list of discontinued models, which, not shockingly, includes more Nautilus references. On top of that, Patek Philippe decided to discontinue the popular Aquanaut Travel Time in stainless steel (ref. 5164A). While price increases are […] Visit Patek Philippe’s Price Increases And Discontinuations For 2024 - What Is Next For The Genevan Brand? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Last year, Heinrich introduced an eye-catching dial in an all new case. Each of Heinrich’s watches up to this point have been described as vintage inspired with strong 70s vibes.The Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” is no different, with the dial taking fairly direct inspiration from Universal Genève’s Unisonic “Buzzsaw” tuning fork watch from the late 1960s and ‘70s. Whether we will see a reincarnation of this design from Universal Genève under Breitling’s stewardship remains to be seen, but if you are crying out for a funky dial design at an affordable price, this could be the watch for you. The Helicoprion name comes from an extinct genus of shark-like fish, which had a spiral of teeth in its lower jaw – the teeth increasing in size as it spiraled outwards. This creature, along with Heinrich’s latest watch, has also been dubbed the “Buzzsaw” due to the similar circular tooth configuration seen on the blade of a circular saw. While the Universal Genève reference also saw each tooth shifting to a darker or lighter shade as they increased in size, the Heinrich Helicoprion dial markings are presented in a single color as the teeth grow between each hour (or five minute) index. $558 Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 or Sellita SW200 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Beads of rice bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 40 x 47.8mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty ...
Worn & Wound
The world of G-Shock is, frankly, expansive. There are myriad references, materials, colors, and special and limited editions. Navigating this can be intimidating, so it helps to have an understanding of what the landscape looks like from way up. At a high level, among the two most well-known and best-selling G-Shock cases are the octagon and the rectangle, the 2100 and the 5000. These form the basis for a lot of the collections, and today’s highlight is one such example. The Polychromatic models are notable for their use of, well, colors but also their composition in the form of good old stainless steel. A closer look shows that these are watches that celebrate 40 years of continuous production by showcasing what G-Shock is all about. The world of G-Shock is, frankly, expansive. There are myriad references, materials, colors, and special and limited editions. Navigating this can be intimidating, so it helps to have an understanding of what the landscape looks like from way up. At a high level, among the two most well-known and best-selling G-Shock cases are the octagon and the rectangle, the 2100 and the 5000. These form the basis for a lot of the collections, and today’s highlight is one such example. The Polychromatic models are notable for their use of, well, colors but also their composition in the form of good old stainless steel. A closer look shows that these are watches that celebrate 40 years of continuous production by showcasing what G-Shock is all about. T...
Worn & Wound
If you’ve already come to a Windup Watch Fair in the past, plan to be pleasantly surprised when we open the doors on October 20th through the 22nd in NYC. If you haven’t been to one before, you’re going to be blown away by the sheer scope of the fair we’ve built out this year. As a reminder, here are the key event details: The Altman Building on 18th Street between 6th and 7th avenues (135 W 18th St) Friday, October 20: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 21: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 22: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public We have over 80 brands showcasing their watches and goods on two floors! This includes a handful of never-before-seen-in-the-metal watches and the introduction of “EDC Alley” to NYC, which was successfully piloted in both San Francisco and Chicago earlier this year. But look no further than our five Lead Sponsors to find some new releases that are sure to make any watch enthusiast jump for joy. Our Lead Sponsors Bulova Since its inception in 1875, Bulova has been synonymous with quality, precision, and innovation in the world of timekeeping. With a rich heritage and a commitment to exceptional craftsmanship, Bulova continues to create watches that blend classic elegance with cutting-edge technology. From the iconic Archive Series to the celebrated CURV and proprietary Precisionist movement, Bulova remains a symbol of excellence in the art of watchmaking. Be sure to check out their collection of classic field watches which will be paired w...
Worn & Wound
Our friends at Fratello have announced their latest limited edition collaboration, a follow up to last year’s release with Minase. That watch, the M-3 “Very Peri,” marked the first time Minase’s cushion shaped case was available outside of Japan. This year’s version borrows the same case profile, but lands on a very different dial execution. The Fratello x Minase M-3 “Nori” has a subtle green dial inspired by Japanese seaweed, making for a toned down and perhaps more under-the-radar version of the M-3 than last year’s brightly colored purple variant. Minase, for the uninitiated, is a Japanese brand that produces about 500 pieces per year in the Akita Prefecture. They incorporate many traditional Japanese craft elements in their watchmaking, with a focus on hand-made components, but also incorporate plenty of modern manufacturing techniques. If you’ve handled any of their watches (we’ve been happy to have them at several recent Windup Watch Fairs, and they’ll be joining us once again in NYC next month), you know that they machined and finished immaculately. Zach wrote about Minase’s Divido here, which has an extremely complex case and bracelet construction, paired with a dial that’s made with a very traditional Japanese lacquering technique. The M-3 has a simpler case, but it’s machined and finished to the same high standard as Minase’s more complex designs. The cushion style case measures 39mm in diameter, 46mm lug-to-lug, and is just 10...
Time+Tide
The MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision initially came in four editions, each limited to only 5 pieces Two new HM9-SV models now join the collection, again each limited to 5 pieces One brings a blue PVD-coated movement into a white gold case, the other a green PVD-coated movement into a yellow gold case The MB&F; catalogue … ContinuedThe post The new MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision bare all with full transparency and new colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Glashütte Original is back with two new limited edition variants of their retro-inspired Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date The rounded-square TV case recalls the freewheeling fashion aesthetic that dominated the 1970s Two matte lacquered dial choices are available, a pale ochre and a muted grey-blue The latest offerings from Glashütte Original conjure up nostalgia-fuelled visions of … ContinuedThe post The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Golden Bay” and “Ocean Breeze” limited editions are a retro holiday from the ordinary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Wittnauer Geneve Starting this week off with a unique vintage Wittnauer Geneve. The 34mm stainless steel case has a neat octagonal design, one you don’t see often. I think they really pulled it off in this case (pun intended), especially with the large lug bevels. Case looks unpolished and still shows the brushed finish. The two-tone silver bullseye dial with crosshairs is a stunner, and in fantastic condition. No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs, and that the movement is a manual wind. Speaking of which, the winding crown is signed with the Wittnauer “W” logo to boot. View auction here. Vintage Omega Seamaster This vintage Omega Seamaster is a real beauty for those that love patina. This is housed in the classic fat lug, wide bezel Seamaster 34mm steel case that is so desired by Omega collectors. The fat lugs have nice, sharp chamfers as they should since the case is unpolished. It is sadly becoming more and more of a rarity to find an unpolished Seamaster. The dial has stylized Arabic numerals at 12, 3 and 9, with slim arrows for the other markers, and a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. This dial used to be a silver/white, but has developed a beaut...
Time+Tide
Born in the days when drivers didn’t wear seatbelts, in hopes of being ejected from the burning wreckages of their petrol-filled bathtubs on wheels, the Mille Miglia was an iconic open-road endurance race. Much like the similar Mexian Carrera Panamericana, the Italian grand touring spectacle claimed many lives throughout its history, eventually ceasing operation in … ContinuedThe post Chopard unveil five new Mille Miglia chronographs for the 2023 edition of the historic race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last week the 11th Hour Racing Team, whom watch manufacturer Ulysse Nardin have partnered with, became the first-ever US team to win the legendary Ocean Race in its 50-year history. A seven-leg race, across nine international cities, and over a span of six months, is an incredibly challenging journey before one team can take home … ContinuedThe post Ulysee Nardin x 11th Hour Racing become the first US team to win the legendary Ocean Race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Just when Joshua Munchow thought he was out, Ming Watches pulled him back in! The brand is (still) on a roll with two pieces having been nominated for the final round of the 2020 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève plus a new concept featuring an AgenGraphe chronograph movement by Agenhor. Here Joshua checks out the GPHG contenders, Ming's 18.01 and 27.01, two very different watches.
Time+Tide
New 18K white gold Rolex Daytona with special visual cues celebrates 100 years of 24 Hours of Le Mans race Uses a new 4132 calibre exclusive to the model that features a 24-hour counter rather than the standard 12-hour counter US$51,400 and not announced as a limited edition Rolex is typically viewed as the unfaltering … ContinuedThe post New Rolex Daytona revealed for 24 Hours of Le Mans race centenary – what you need to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If a luxury brand is synonymous with handbags or jewellery, most watch collectors won’t usually give them the time of day, as we tend to get hung up on the fact that these names are known more for haute couture than haute horology. Despite the best efforts of the watch press, a whole segment of … ContinuedThe post When are we going to accept that fashion brands can make legit timepieces? 6 amazing references from rulers of the runway appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
We hope that heading into Memorial Day weekend you’ve got plans to do things other than constantly scroll through Instagram, but let’s be real: for watch enthusiasts, a long weekend is just a few extra hours to climb down the collecting rabbit hole. To that end, Watch Scrolling is back, this time with a selection of Instagram accounts curated by Kat Shoulders, Worn & Wound’s Media Production Manager. If you need even more IG recommendations, be sure to check out previous installments of Watch Scrolling from Blake Buettner and Zach Kazan. As always, we want to hear from you, so feel free to drop your favorite watch related IG accounts in the comments below – we’d love to see them. @secondeseconde View this profile on Instagram seconde/seconde/ (@secondeseconde) • Instagram photos and videos I’ve always been fascinated with people who make art from already existing objects and that’s exactly what @secondeseconde has done with watches. A little funny, a little tongue in cheek, they are always sure to make you kind of smirk as you see his artwork scroll across your feed. There’s a certain physicalness he brings to Instagram that I really love, even when it’s simply a photo within a photo of a watch. Call it vandalism or call it art, you gotta give mad props to him for collaborating with some big brands like Moser, Vulcain, Nivada Grenchen, Louis Errard, Messena Lab, and more. I can’t wait to see what he does next! @pockettrinkets View this profi...
Time+Tide
While there’s plenty of (micro)brands out there doing their thing in their own unique way, there is no brand out there that quite does it like Studio Underd0g. Their funky two-register chronographs have captured the hearts of enthusiasts ever since they first released in 2020, stemming from unique, often food-related, inspiration. We’re excited to offer … ContinuedThe post Studio Underd0g’s whimsical offerings are now available in the Time+Tide Shop! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Sapphire features a golden bridge inspired by a design of Leonardo Da Vinci The vertical tourbillon placement is inspired by traditional pocket watches. It’s a limited edition of 10 pieces, celebrating the 10th anniversary of Cyrus. My last exposure to the Swiss independent luxury brand Cyrus Genéve was the Klepcys DICE Racing … ContinuedThe post The Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Sapphire is a unique watch inspired by Leonardo Da Vinci appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Though I love the watch community as a whole, there are times where I couldn’t disagree more with the direction of its ire. One such moment happened earlier this year with the release of the MoonSwatch. The overall positive vibes were cut like a knife by a wave of negativity. Much of which had to … ContinuedThe post You are not a flipper: Three perfectly good reasons for selling a watch right after buying it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you spend any time on the watch internet whatsoever, you’ll quickly become familiar with ETA and Sellita, eventually recognising Kenissi, Vaucher and others. While the big two manufacturers are responsible for most of the industry’s Swiss movement supply, with other smaller ones filling the gaps, notable manufacturers are often underappreciated. One such maker is … ContinuedThe post THE Plus are specialists in Swiss production, and could be the future of “in-house” movements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In the final instalment of this LOTR-rivalling three-part epic, we cover even more movements and complication modules developed by Jean-Marc and Catherine Wiederrecht’s Agenhor. Old faces like Harry Winston and MB&F; feature again, with the likes of Chaumet and Romain Jerome the newcomers. You can check out part 1 and part 2 here, should you … ContinuedThe post Agenhor, and the many movements of the Genevan complication masters (Part 3, Finale) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bolivar, Gigantes cigars might be strong and powerful, but they always seem balanced. Sadly, this will be an experience that becomes rarer and rarer in the coming years as they have been discontinued and are harder to find. Ken Gargett highly recommends that If you ever come across any, grab them fast!
Time+Tide
This week seems to be the week of awards shows. I was in California last weekend for the Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards, while today Andrew was at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards celebrate the hard work of those who work behind the scenes in the movie industry, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A week of awards with Hamilton’s BTCA and the GPHGs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In a sceptical marketplace, collaborations and partnerships can sometimes be met with hesitancy. Not every tie-in is created equal. Is it a gimmick? A cash-grab? If the through-line is not there, if it does not feel genuine, then the release is often set to tank. But the proof is ultimately in the pudding. Last year, … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer debuts two Formula 1 x Mario Kart Limited Editions that fans will race to shell out for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s the tail-end of the 1980s, and you and your stockbroker buddies are ripping down the Autobahn in the two fastest cars in the world – the Ferrari F40 and Porsche 959. Suddenly, you notice a flash of yellow in your rear-view mirror, which disappears in front of you as quickly as it appeared behind. … ContinuedThe post Bamford, TAG Heuer and Highsnobiety combine to pay tribute to an automotive icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The preeminent – and perhaps only international – awards for watchmaking, Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), has just announced the competing timepieces of 2022. We are please that one of own editions, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac”, is competing in “Artistic Crafts”. Created last year for the 10th anniversary of SJX Watches, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” is a candidate alongside marques like Voutilainen and Hermes in a category that calls for “exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enamelling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeleton-working, etc.” The Zodiac is all about engraving – done by hand naturally – with both the front and back decorated in relief and textures. Both the dial and movement are fully engraved by the hands of the skilful artisans at Kudoke. The hand engraving is extensive and complete, with is nothing on the dial or movement that is engraved by machine – even the brand name on the dial is executed by hand. But the Zodiac is more than just artisanal technique. It is also an artistic creation: the hour symbols on the dial were commissioned especially for the watch and drawn by Canadian illustrator Lee Yuen-Rapati, who’s now the in-house designer at Fears. He cleverly combined both a sign of the zodiac and Roman numeral into each hour markers. The marker at ten, for instance, is Aquarius but also contains “X”, the Roman numeral for “10”. To echo the celestial theme on the fr...
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