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RECOMMENDED READING: This guy has zero regrets buying the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 It’s fair Sep 3, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This guy has zero regrets buying the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59

It’s fair to say at this point of 2019 that the CODE 11.59 collection from Audemars Piguet has been the most widely panned watch release of the year, if not recent years. It was in some ways a perfect storm of critical disapproval, poor PR and a pack mentality that got pretty nasty. But pictures … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: This guy has zero regrets buying the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref 3700 Sep 3, 2019

Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2”

The Phillips Perpetual boutique in London officially opens this week with 40 watches encompassing all important genres of watch collecting, from a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” to a Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref. 3700 (from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver no less). But one of the flagship offerings is an important example of independent watchmaking – a Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” that’s “No. 1”. It is very much a quintessential, early Roger W. Smith creation with the hallmark elements of his watchmaking. But the watch is also historically interesting, being an example of the road not taken for Mr Smith. The forgotten “Edition” This watch illuminates an intriguing bit of early Roger W. Smith history. Shortly after Mr Smith delivered the first batch of Series 2 watches in late 2007, he decided to create the “Edition” concept. According to Mr Smith, the idea was to produce Series 2 as a limited edition of 90 watches in total, with 30 watches in each colour of gold. All Edition watches had 38mm cases and solid silver dials; the Edition 1 was in yellow gold, Edition 2 in rose, and Edition 3 in white gold. At the same time, Mr Smith also offered custom versions of the Series 2, which were also available in a platinum case. But as it turned out, most clients wanted a custom watch, rather than an Edition example. So Mr Smith discreetly abandoned Edition not long after, and only a five of each Edition were made. This is on...

Another look at the Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary Time+Tide
Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary Sep 2, 2019

Another look at the Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary

Editor’s note: The Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary is an oldie but a goodie. And not an oldie in the 1950-something sense, but rather in the, ‘this 2017 limited edition is probably all gone by now’. But it’s very much the definition of a modern heritage banger.  The hardest thing when re-creating a vintage watch … ContinuedThe post Another look at the Longines Flagship Heritage 60th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith SJX Watches
Ming Sep 2, 2019

Introducing the Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith

Ming made its debut with the affordable and well received 17.01 – which cost only US$900 – later revived as the 17.03 for the brand’s anniversary. Both models were limited editions, but popular enough that Ming has just unveiled the 17.06, which is essentially an improved version of the 17.01. The basics like the case size and movement are the same, but several details have been upgraded. To be produced in limited numbers each year, the 17.06 retains the styling of the original model, but incorporates subtle design tweaks as well as more substantial construction changes. The 17.06 retains the raised, luminous hour track that’s a Ming signature The bezel, for instance, is now secured by screws from inside the case, making removal for polishing easier. And the hands also sit closer to the crystal. Notably, the 17.06 is the first serially produced Ming wristwatch to have a stainless steel case. According to the brand, this resulted from the steel prototypes of the 17.06 being particularly well-liked by the brand’s founders. The 17.06 is available in two guises, each priced at slightly more than the original 17.01. Both are powered by an ETA 2824-2 “top grade” that’s regulated in five positions. The 17.06 Copper has a copper-tone dial with an engraved motif, matched with a case with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It’ll be limited to 300 pieces a year. The 17.06 Monolith is all black – the dial is matte black while the case is sandblasted...

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Sep 2, 2019

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial

Seiko has cultivated its Presage collection as one that offers watches featuring dials decorated with artisanal techniques like Shippo enamel or Arita porcelain, but at extremely affordable prices. Now Seiko has just rolled out the first-ever Presage watches powered by the brand’s best-known innovation – the Spring Drive, an electronically regulated mechanical movement previously only found in Credor, Grand Seiko and Prospex watches. And the Spring Drive has been combined with a decidedly more traditional face, with both new models featuring vitreous enamel dials. Available in either white or black, the enamel dials are once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who are adept at producing enamel dials of high-quality and in large quantities, but relatively low prices. The clean and slightly retro dial design, however, is the work of the design studio founded by Japanese industrial designer Riki Watanabe. After his death in 2013, the design of his work was entrusted to his colleague, who stuck closely to Watanabe’s ideals of functionality and beauty in the conception of the watch. The dial is characterised by a striking clarity thanks to the high contrast between the hands, hour markers and dial, as well as Arabic numerals in Didoni typeface, a favourite of Watanabe. Notably, the date is properly integrated into the dial design with a date wheel that matches the colour of the dial, while the combination of the contrasting...

Two tones and a sprinkling of diamond – the  Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Time+Tide
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Sep 1, 2019

Two tones and a sprinkling of diamond – the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41

Editor’s note: Steel sports is all well and good, but there’s something very appealing about the iconic Datejust in this steel and gold livery, with a warm brown dial and diamond hour markers. Especially with that bezel and band. Primo …  There are two main contenders for the title of ‘most recognisable watch in the … ContinuedThe post Two tones and a sprinkling of diamond – the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A watch for C-3PO – the Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition Time+Tide
Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition Sep 1, 2019

A watch for C-3PO – the Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition

The recent anniversary of the moon landing saw my Instagram feed explode with Speedmaster wrist shots, and an overwhelming number of watch brands releasing special edition watches to commemorate the event. But when the new Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition somehow beat the algorithm and made its way onto the top of my explore feed, I … ContinuedThe post A watch for C-3PO – the Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed Time+Tide
Aug 31, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed

If you’ve been paying attention to the wonderful world of watches for more than 15 minutes, you’ll have worked out that high-tech materials, often with fancy proprietary names, are a big deal. Isographs, Aeronith, Sedna gold, unobtanium and all the rest. This sort of fancy nomenclature is stock-in-trade of Swiss marketing departments, but it’s also … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You Are There: Monterey Car Week 2019 With Singer Reimagined And H. Moser & Cie Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie GaryG has Aug 30, 2019

You Are There: Monterey Car Week 2019 With Singer Reimagined And H. Moser & Cie

GaryG has been to Monterey Car Week around 20 times now to meet up with friends and enjoy the array of cars and, more recently, watches on display. While in recent years they have focused on the “big” events at The Quail and Pebble Beach, this year the group decided to add some variety and go off the beaten path a bit – with satisfying results.

This is what $2,000,000 of diamond watch looks like – meet the Franck Muller Invisible Setting with rubies Time+Tide
Franck Muller Aug 30, 2019

This is what $2,000,000 of diamond watch looks like – meet the Franck Muller Invisible Setting with rubies

This is not an under-the-radar watch. So if you’re looking for an unassuming dress watch, scroll on. But if you like your timekeeping served with a bit (OK, a lot) of bling, this might be up your alley. But be warned: the price - much like the weight in stones - is hefty. Want to see … ContinuedThe post This is what $2,000,000 of diamond watch looks like – meet the Franck Muller Invisible Setting with rubies appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The old-world charms of the Longines 1832 Moonphase Time+Tide
Longines 1832 Moonphase We’ve been Aug 29, 2019

The old-world charms of the Longines 1832 Moonphase

We’ve been having a bit of a lunar week with Longines this week - checking out their new Master Moonphase in the boutique and in our studio. And we thought we’d stick with the theme this Friday. Today we’re taking a closer look at the stylish, chic and generally handsome Longines 1832 Moonphase. If the Master … ContinuedThe post The old-world charms of the Longines 1832 Moonphase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold “The Hour Glass” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet De Bethune Aug 29, 2019

Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold “The Hour Glass”

Having unveiled commemorative editions from the likes of Audemars Piguet, De Bethune and Urwerk for its 40 years in business, Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass continues the anniversary roll-out with the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold. The watch is a variant of the entry-level but appealing Freak X, a remarkable exercise in simplicity and the most affordable version of the Freak to date. But importantly, it manages to be the base model without being a concession, and instead is more of an optimisation, offering a great deal of exotic watchmaking – it boasts the fanciest oscillator of any watch in this price segment – for little money as such things go. While the Freak X forgoes some characteristics of its avant-garde forebear, it is both technically clever and much more refined in design, offering an enhanced practicality by way of a smaller case, a traditional crown, an automatic movement, and most crucially, a high-performance silicon balance wheel – an innovation found only in one other Freak, the pricier Freak Vision. Streamlined mechanics Limited to 30 pieces, the Freak X for The Hour Glass combines a new case material – “Carbonium Gold” – with a striking champagne dial. In contrast to most Freak models that have dark dials, this Freak X has a face in a pale gold which gives it a greater presence on the wrist, but because of its matte, brushed finish, it isn’t loud and manages to be easily wearable. The only downside of t...

RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light Time+Tide
Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light Aug 28, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light

The headlines this week have been full of Omega’s latest Aqua Terra, the very matt, very lightweight Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light. The major selling point has been its light weight of 55 grams, a new alloy and its fancy new disappearing crown trick. It’s made with golf in mind, but the potential is more … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD “Raspberry” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Aug 27, 2019

Hands-On: H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD “Raspberry”

Over the last couple of years, H. Moser & Cie has become well-known for its playful jabs at the industry’s foibles – see exhibit one – as well as its provocatively pared back “concept” watches that are completely devoid of indications and logos. But its latest release, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD “Raspberry”, is a return to its roots – a visual revamp of its ingenious perpetual calendar with the added flourish of a gorgeous burgundy fume dial. The perpetual calendar was the watch that made collectors sit up and take notice of Moser when the name was revived in 2005. With a minimalist, sensible display and ingenious mechanics, it was developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, an independent watchmaker who often builds complications for other brands. Though it has been around for over a decade now, it remains one of the most advanced perpetual calendars both in terms of function and practicality. The “Raspberry” is a variant of the perpetual calendar sports watch first launched two years ago. The new Pioneer Perpetual Calendar “Raspberry” Raspberry fumé In contrast to the classical Endeavour Perpetual Calendar that has is not a sports watch, hence its 30m depth rating, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD incorporates a screw-down crown and is water-resistant to 120m. The case is stainless steel, and like most Moser watches, is substantially sized, measuring 42.8mm wide but a relatively slim 11.3mm in height, excluding the domed crys...

The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous Aug 26, 2019

The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome

It might surprise you to learn that one of my favourite watches from this year’s SIHH show was the Dazzling Rendez-Vous from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Rendez-Vous has been a strong women’s offering for some time, but this Dazzling version really ups the ante. This is thanks largely to that outer ring of 36 diamonds, which dominate … ContinuedThe post The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exploring the Longines Skin Diver Watch Time+Tide
Longines Skin Diver Watch Editor’s note Aug 26, 2019

Exploring the Longines Skin Diver Watch

Editor’s note: Last night, Longines went live with their online shopping facility, and I’ve spent a bit of time browsing what’s on offer. And it should come as no surprise that I’m pretty into the ‘heritage’ section of the site. And one watch, which I saw last year and was really taken by, is the … ContinuedThe post Exploring the Longines Skin Diver Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-111C “Pistol” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3414 Aug 26, 2019

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-111C “Pistol”

The average Urwerk is distinctly sci-fi in appearance, more Star Trek than Games of Thrones. But every once in a while Urwerk gives one of its watches the ornately-fully-engraved treatment, with the latest being the UR-111C “Pistol”. It’s a one-off creation based on the UR-111C, a watch inspired by the earlier and much more expensive UR-CC1, itself modelled on the 1950s Patek Philippe ref. 3414, an experimental wristwatch nicknamed “Cobra”. The standard UR-111C has a streamlined case with a mechanical looking details, very much in the house style of Urwerk. The Pistol, in contrast, is decorated on all surfaces with an ornate motif that’s hand-engraved by Urwerk’s go-to engraver. It was commissioned by a client who has a soft spot for such engraved Urwerk watches; the UR-111C “Pistol” is his third fully engraved watch. (Editor’s note: This Pistol shares the same name as the EMC Pistol from 2015, and was decorated by the same engraver, but is a completely different model.) Inspired by 19th century French wrought iron fixtures, the motif is in relief, raised against the background by only a fraction of a millimetre but enough to give it significant depth. Add to that the refined, narrow and perfectly straight lines of the decoration, and the talent of the engraver is obvious. Credit for the work goes to Florian Güllert, an Austrian engraver who trained as a gunsmith and usually decorates firearms. Based in Klagenfurt, a city in the south of ...

Dive into the Christopher Ward C65 Trident Automatic Time+Tide
Christopher Ward C65 Trident Automatic Editor’s Aug 25, 2019

Dive into the Christopher Ward C65 Trident Automatic

Editor’s note: Sometimes, amid all the hullaballoo around specifications, it’s easy to forget what makes watches fun. Sure, helium escape valves can play a part in that. But if we’re completely honest, it’s about how a watch looks on the wrist, and makes us feel. And by those metrics, the Christopher Ward C65 Trident Automatic … ContinuedThe post Dive into the Christopher Ward C65 Trident Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions Time+Tide
Aug 25, 2019

Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions

Editor’s note: Being a pilot who’s into watches is already cool enough, but when you add in some seriously serious photography skills, that’s the whole ballgame. If you need some watch photography inspiration, this is it. Here’s a story from a while back when Andy caught up with Dale Mracek of @MracekProductions … Hi Dale, … ContinuedThe post Level up your watch photography with @MracekProductions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching an itch with a spiky bezel Time+Tide
Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching Aug 23, 2019

The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching an itch with a spiky bezel

It’s probably a bit generous to call me a ‘collector’, but as I continue on this journey, I’m discovering that I genuinely enjoy meaningful attempts by companies to do something different. In today’s expanded universe of microbrands and industry stalwarts, it can take a lot to stand out, but it takes even more to stand … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching an itch with a spiky bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 3 – the Classic collection Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s family part 3 Aug 22, 2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 3 – the Classic collection

We’re now more than halfway through our flyover of the various families in the IWC Pilot’s family - we’ve covered off Top Gun and the Spitfire, but now we’re hitting the Classics. As you might expect given the classic moniker, the Classic family is, well, classic. Based strongly on the original military-era pilots, these watches … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 3 – the Classic collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Celebrating the moon, the moonwatch and the Apollo Missions with Omega and Charlie Duke Time+Tide
Omega Aug 21, 2019

Celebrating the moon, the moonwatch and the Apollo Missions with Omega and Charlie Duke

On Wednesday night, Omega held a black tie bash in honour of the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 moon landing (and the small but significant role the Speedmaster played in it). It was one of the most impressive events I’ve attended in my time covering watches. But the ‘wow factor’ wasn’t due so much … ContinuedThe post Celebrating the moon, the moonwatch and the Apollo Missions with Omega and Charlie Duke appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI – “Titanium Inverse” SJX Watches
Glashütte Original PanoInverse Aug 19, 2019

Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI – “Titanium Inverse”

Voutilainen’s signature watch is the Vingt-8, powered by the cal. 28, which is time-only but impressively constructed and beautifully finished. So earlier this year Voutilainen flipped the movement, inverting the calibre to have the interesting bits on the front, and relegating the base plate to the back. The result is the 28TI – short for “titanium inverse” – a watch that has all the trademark elements of a Voutilainen, gorgeous detailing and refined decoration, but is as over the top as a classical watch can be. Inverted movements are not new, they can occasionally be found in antique pocket watches, and over the last two decades they have gradually become fashionable in modern watchmaking. The pioneer in the current era is the Breguet La Tradition, though strictly speaking it is not an inverted movement since it was constructed from the ground up to look like a 19th century souscription pocket watch. Actually inverted is the Glashütte Original PanoInverse, and more recently, the Moritz Grossmann Backpage. But none of the other brands making such movements do so to the same quality as Voutilainen, making the 28TI unique in its class. The 28TI Telling time indirectly Mechanically the 28TI is largely similar to the standard cal. 28, with some changes in the construction for the flipped display. Additional gearing is required to drive the hands in the opposite direction, while also allowing for hand-setting via the crown. The changes start with a series o...

Where rubber hits the road – 5 high-end rubber straps Time+Tide
Aug 19, 2019

Where rubber hits the road – 5 high-end rubber straps

There’s a lot to like about a rubber strap - especially if you live somewhere hot, wet or humid. The natural material is exceptionally hard-wearing, and comfortable to boot. The only issue is that in the past there’s been a perception that rubber is a strictly utilitarian affair and, as such, quality is of a … ContinuedThe post Where rubber hits the road – 5 high-end rubber straps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seeing ghosts with Creux Automatiq Time+Tide
Casio nally you can find Aug 19, 2019

Seeing ghosts with Creux Automatiq

Editor’s note: When we’re talking about fine watches, our eyes are typically drawn to Switzerland and (to a lesser extent) Germany and Japan. But occasionally you can find some quality closer to home. That was the case when the Creux Automatiq Ghost Explorer landed on my desk around this time last year. The quality (especially … ContinuedThe post Seeing ghosts with Creux Automatiq appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II Time+Tide
Aug 17, 2019

Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II

Editor’s note: These days, Ball is a bit of a niche brand, but even though they’re not front of mind, they’re in no danger of fading away, thanks to their exceptional lume. Cam has a look at one of their modern divers, the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II. Read on …  The watch industry … ContinuedThe post Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Realising Breguet’s Dream of the Natural Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s Dream Aug 17, 2019

In-Depth: Realising Breguet’s Dream of the Natural Escapement

Abraham-Louis Breguet’s contributions to horology are as numerous as they are fundamental. Practically every avenue of watchmaking is built on the foundations he laid down, from the perpetuelle self-winding mechanism to pare-chute shock-protection for balance pivots. But most famous of all was the tourbillon, patented in 1801. It was crucial to the precision of mechanical pocket watches and clocks, the only kinds of timepieces in use then, which normally sat in an upright, vertical position. The Breguet Souscription pocket watch of the 1990s that replicated the 19th century originals, right down to the pare-chute escapement The tourbillon, however, was not Breguet’s only effort in improving chronometric performance. Prior to the tourbillon, he created the lesser known but more elegant echappement naturel, or natural escapement, in 1789. It was a double-wheel chronometer escapement that in theory, needed no oil. Breguet managed to incorporate it into just 20 pocket watches, but serial production of the natural escapement ultimately eluded him as its design had inherent shortcomings – primarily backlash in the motion of its wheels – that made it impossible to commercialise. The idea was ahead of its time, and it would take some 200 years before technology made the natural escapement feasible. The concept of natural escapements continues to fascinate watchmakers, many of whom have conceived modern-day descendants, the most recent of which is the Ch...

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar Aug 17, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue

Vacheron Constantin’s Fiftysix collection - first released in 2018 - is a refreshingly upbeat take on mid-century design, full of personality and warmth. And this new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue keeps the tempo up. The case looks simple at first glance, but quickly gathers sophistication the more you study it. I … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A closer look at TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon in black ceramic  Time+Tide
TAG Heuer s Carrera Heuer 02 Aug 17, 2019

A closer look at TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon in black ceramic 

Editor’s note: Earlier this week we had a look at a few TAG Heuer Tourbillons, including the impressive new Nanograph - with its fancy new carbon escapement and yellow highlights. But we’ve also still got the hots for one of the original models, this all-black beauty clad in ultra-tough ceramic. Dark, meet handsome.  Owning a … ContinuedThe post A closer look at TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon in black ceramic  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.