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Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin 'Twin Beat' Perpetual Calendar Returns Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Jul 20, 2026

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin 'Twin Beat' Perpetual Calendar Returns

When Vacheron Constantin announced the original Twin-Beat at SIHH in 2019, I wasn't in the watch space in the same way I am now. I was also focused on a much different price point—the one I shop in, not the one that I've since become fascinated by. So I missed it. A lot of people did, it seems. I don't think this watch, as interesting as it is/was as a first release, was made in particularly large numbers, and for over a year, I heard rumblings about the eventual return of the Twin-Beat. Well, it's here. It's improved. And yes, in the metal, it's both entertaining and impressive. But what is it? Essentially, the watch leverages two balances that beat at different rates to provide either 4 days of power reserve running at 5Hz or 70 days in standby mode at 1.2Hz. Oh, and it's a perpetual calendar as well. We covered the technical aspects back in 2019, so this will focus more on the watch as a revived model. The technical is the key here, but the form factor is impressive as well. A perpetual calendar, with dual balances, measuring 42mm and 12.3mm thick, it's hefty because of the platinum case, but it wears quite well despite the technicality. Vacheron has a tendency to make some impressively complicated watches and, unfortunately, make them quite large in the process. This would never have been a problem in the old days (especially for brands like Patek, which dominated this high-end, integrated complication space), but then again, the specifications of the old days don't ...

Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics] Hodinkee
Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II Jul 17, 2026

Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics]

What We Know Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water (sorry), California-based retailer Topper Jewelers has released a limited edition take on Doxa's recently refreshed SUB 200 T.Graph II. This crispy, white-dialed variant comes fast on the heels of Doxa's own re-issue of its legendary dive chronograph. The name "Great White" obviously references the dial color, but is also a tribute to the Bay Area's notorious offshore aquatic apex predators, Carcharodon carcharias, the great white shark. To refresh your memory, the T.Graph was Doxa's first dive chronograph, originally released in 1969 with three dial color versions—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), and Searambler (silver). Horological historians tend to agree that only 300 of each color were made, making it a rare and coveted watch for vintage collectors and Doxaphiles. While a limited-edition version was released back in 2017, including a solid-gold variant, Doxa finally rewarded fans last month with the non-limited T.Graph II. This new evolution is a faithful interpretation, but updated with a slimmer case, automatic movement, and a new (for the chronograph) colorway—the Caribbean (blue). Now, in limited numbers, comes the further-evolved "Great White" from Doxa retailer Topper, based in Burlingame, California. This isn't Topper's first foray into Doxa limited editions. Two years ago, the company collaborated with the Swiss brand on a "Great White" SUB 300 that sported a pearly white dia...

IFL Watches Revisits The Koi Fish Concept For The IFLW × Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Mako Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Mako IFL Jul 6, 2026

IFL Watches Revisits The Koi Fish Concept For The IFLW × Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Mako

IFL Watches moves fast. The brand creates one limited-edition model after another, all featuring hand-painted dials. With those many creations also comes a great variety of watches that serve as canvases for custom artwork. The latest model added to the lineup is the Citizen Tsuyosa Shore series. Quickly after the launch of this recent Tsuyosa […] Visit IFL Watches Revisits The Koi Fish Concept For The IFLW × Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Mako to read the full article.

First Look - The New, Summer-Inspired IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 Pool Monochrome
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 Pool Jul 6, 2026

First Look - The New, Summer-Inspired IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 Pool

IWC’s Ingenieur tool watch, introduced in the mid-1950s, was specifically designed to handle magnetic environments thanks to its soft-iron cage. However, in 1976, the classic round watch fell into the hands of Gérald Genta, who transformed it into an integrated, anti-magnetic tool watch known as the Ingenieur SL Jumbo. After several remakes, the Ingenieur finally […]

After Giving Us The Rainbow, Awake Now Gets Us The Pot Of Gold With The New Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Royal Blue Fratello
Jul 2, 2026

After Giving Us The Rainbow, Awake Now Gets Us The Pot Of Gold With The New Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Royal Blue

Have you seen a rainbow anywhere lately? I haven’t, but every time I see one, I think about the pot of gold that’s supposed to be sitting right at the end of it. Independent watch brand Awake also makes me think there’s a connection between the two. Lex recently went hands-on with the Sơn Mài […] Visit After Giving Us The Rainbow, Awake Now Gets Us The Pot Of Gold With The New Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Royal Blue to read the full article.

Reading Time At HSNY: Playtime Hodinkee
Ming specimens Jun 30, 2026

Reading Time At HSNY: Playtime

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarians. Today's post was written by Miranda Marraccini. Little kids love to touch things. If you've ever been a parent or even just spent time with a toddler, you'll know that an unattended cup of coffee, a billowing plastic bag on the street, or a dirty toy in the sandbox is a temptation no small child can resist. But it's also an amazing quality, because kids are great at hands-on learning, including in the field of horology. In our library collection at the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), we've got plenty of books that show kids how to tell time. Books, however, can only go so far—and I'm saying that as a librarian. For interactive horological fun, our library boasts a selection of kits, games, puzzles, and toys to handle and assemble. Image 2 One of the most charming specimens of children's education we have is a 1940s–1950s era "junior clockmaker construction set" (image 1). On the lid of the box, a proud-looking papa in a full suit (presumably just returned from his job at a midtown advertising agency) watches over his two delighted children, who are working on their toy clock. The completed clock is shown on the left—a traditional chalet-style Black Forest or cuckoo clock, ornamented with festive boy and girl figures dancing over a 12-hour dial, two twee ducks, and a tulip motif. The blond boy on the box is staring straight at the viewer, holding the partially assembled gear train,...

Treasure Hunting In London: Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents Its Sixth The Collectibles Capsule Collection Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents Jun 22, 2026

Treasure Hunting In London: Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents Its Sixth The Collectibles Capsule Collection

The concept isn’t new — far from it. This time, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents its sixth The Collectibles capsule collection, featuring museum-worthy vintage watches you can buy. You could also pop by the brand’s flagship boutique in London on Old Bond Street to take a peek at 12 remarkable watches, including seven Reversos, a scarce 1946 Triple […] Visit Treasure Hunting In London: Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents Its Sixth The Collectibles Capsule Collection to read the full article.

Review: the Venezianico Arenale Calendario Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko May 15, 2026

Review: the Venezianico Arenale Calendario

Venezianico makes a lot of watches. This is a fact that’s become unmistakably clear over these last few years as their footprint has expanded in the enthusiast community. Regardless of whether you know them for watches like this or watches like this, there’s a good chance they also make a watch that’s completely unlike anything you’ve already seen from them.  Making a huge variety of watches at a high volume can be a bit of a gamble in this industry. There’s a sense among many enthusiasts that exclusivity is something to be protected, and when a watch brand casts a very wide net, it can dilute their messaging. We had a great discussion along these lines concerning Grand Seiko in a recent podcast. Clearly there was a moment a few years ago when that brand was flooding the market with new stuff, and their identity was a little lost. “Analysis paralysis” is a term often used by consumers to describe the feeling of shopping a brand that has too much stuff to sift through.  The counter argument of course is right there in the Seiko family. No enthusiast would say that too many watches in the Prospex, Presage, and Seiko 5 lines, among others, is a bad thing. Between the many branches of the Seiko family tree, there are accessible options for everyone, and that’s historically been seen as a good thing for the community and the sign of a healthy brand appealing to a broad market.  What this really comes down to is whether a brand is positioning itself as luxury ...

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph in a Rich Chocolate Brown Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Introduces May 7, 2026

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph in a Rich Chocolate Brown

After taking my French lessons in Duolingo for the better part of three years, I’m happy to say that some of those grammar tips are still rolling around in the ol’ noggin when I have to type such names as Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph in Chocolate – hey, if no one else is going to toot my horn, I might as well, right? Now, enough about me. This latest edition from the brand (which, impressively, has been around since 1791) gives the overall appearance of the Laureato model (which, only slightly less impressively, has been around since 1975) a warmer character with a brown hobnail dial, a matching rubber strap, and rose gold details against the slightly colder steel case. The Laureato elements haven’t gone anywhere on this iteration, they’ve just been updated to complement the chocolate tones. The octagonal bezel, crown, and chronograph pushers have all been executed in rose gold. The integrated rubber strap and tonneau-shaped 904L steel case keep the model’s trademark style while working within what Girard-Perregaux has described as “sporty-chic,” a phrase I’m not too fond of, but can’t deny does describe this watch quite well. The real depth and warmth come from the dial itself. Girard-Perregaux uses a brown Clou de Paris hobnail pattern, with matching subdials and rose-gilt baton markers and hands. The rubber strap I briefly mentioned above continues that same Clou de Paris texture, tying the Chocolate colorway together and keeping things in b...

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph Among May 7, 2026

Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph

Among the great surprises from Watches & Wonders 2026 was the Monaco Evergraph from TAG Heuer. The new model not only brought some welcome aesthetic changes to the iconic square chronograph, but also benefits from a core rethinking of the chronograph mechanism itself.  The Evergraph’s movement is notable in many respects, but the most interesting is the use of bi-stable compliant structures for the chronograph mechanisms. Initial thoughts This year’s Watches & Wonders was marked by some interesting developments — not least some renewed emphasis on technical substance from a subset of brands. While mainstream luxury still dominates the market, there was a shift toward thoughtful engineering and incremental innovation that could be felt across many releases. One such remarkably technical release was the Evergraph from TAG Heuer.  While there’s no shortage of chronographs coming to market — from solid entry-level pieces to low-volume artisanal offerings — few are as genuinely forward-thinking as the Evergraph and its innovative TH80-00 movement. The TH80-00 was created by TAG Heuer in partnership with Vaucher Fleurier — a specialist noted for its expertise in chronographs — over a period of four years. TAG Heuer chose the longer road of developing a movement from ground up and not just applying its novel flexure chronograph mechanism to an existing base.  As a result, the brand had a clean slate to incorporate signature elements like the nine o’clock crow...

Bravur Introduces the Grand Tour Sprinter Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bravur May 6, 2026

Bravur Introduces the Grand Tour Sprinter Chronograph

Bravur, the Swedish watch brand that has developed a very specific niche dedicated to cycling themed watches, has announced their latest in that ongoing series, the Grand Tour Sprinter. To this point, most of Bravur’s cycling watches have been limited releases tied to specific races. A cycling race, it turns out, really lends itself to creative watch design, as it allows a brand like Bravur to take advantage of the unique jersey colors associated with specific races as well as easy to recognize timing and texture nods that cyclists will immediately recognize but would be very subtle (and unobtrusive) for everyone else. The Grand Tour Sprinter is a little different. Rather than taking inspiration from any particular race, the Sprinter pulls from a racing concept and an important individual on any competitive cycling team.  A sprinter on a cycling team plays an important role reserved for the race’s final moments. Over the course of a long race, the sprinter is held back and protected by the rest of the team. Near the end of the race, the sprinter is repositioned with assistance from the rest of the team to make a break for it at the 1 kilometer mark. Timing the sprinter’s final run and orchestrating that moment is critical in a close race.  The Grand Tour Sprinter is a chronograph with many subtle and not-so-subtle nods to cycling and the role of the sprinter that is very much in keeping with previous Bravur watches in the same vein. Like other watches in this serie...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Cubitus 5840 Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cubitus 5840 Perpetual Calendar May 1, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Cubitus 5840 Perpetual Calendar

Patek Philippe’s divisive Cubitus collection enters its third year with the firm’s first truly skeletonised perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Cubitus ref. 5840p-001 Perpetual Calendar Skeleton. As the first member of its clan with a shaped movement, it also welcomes a contemporary aesthetic that breaks with the brand’s established codes of movement decoration, though it’s built on a decades-old foundation. In short, the ref. 5840P is an ideal ambassador for what the Cubitus line can be when it steps out from its brother’s shadow. Initial thoughts The most complicated — and most expensive — Cubitus yet is also arguably the best model in the collection to date, as it probably should be. While on paper it sounds derivative of the Nautilus perpetual calendar, this watch may have the strongest identity of any Cubitus launched so far by fully leaning into the bolder, more contemporary aesthetic that Patek Philippe has, until recently, hesitated to explore. Several details allow the ref. 5840P to have its own identity. The first is the use of a strap, rather than the typical Nautilus-style bracelet. The reshaped movement is another differentiator, as is the new finishing style, which makes it more than just a square Nautilus. Yet the teak deck motif remains central, integrated seamlessly into the skeletonised design. Two other details that stand out are the use of a baguette-cut diamond to denote the platinum case, rather than the usual brilliant-cut stone, and the...

Introducing - The Farer Pilot Collection Series II, now in Titanium Monochrome
Farer Pilot Collection Series II Apr 28, 2026

Introducing - The Farer Pilot Collection Series II, now in Titanium

Cushion cases, GMTs, three-handers, divers… British independent watchmaker Farer is doing a bit of everything. The brand also likes to revisit its collections, as seen with the updated field watches in 2024. After those military-inspired pieces, it was only a matter of time before Farer returned to its pilot watches, first introduced in 2020. Their […]

Hands-on - The New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 Jubilee Gold Monochrome
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 Apr 21, 2026

Hands-on - The New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 Jubilee Gold

Alongside the festivities surrounding the Oyster case’s 100th anniversary, Rolex had another surprise in store: a new in-house gold alloy. Known as Jubilee Gold, the first watch to flaunt the proprietary alloy is the iconic Day-Date, also referred to as the President’s watch. Catalogued in the “Exceptional Watches” collection, together with the Rolesium Daytona Albino, […]

First Look - Cartier Unveils a Trilogy of Santos-Dumont with Precious Metal Bracelets Monochrome
Cartier Unveils Apr 16, 2026

First Look - Cartier Unveils a Trilogy of Santos-Dumont with Precious Metal Bracelets

As they say, necessity is the mother of invention. In 1904, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont approached Louis Cartier, complaining that pocket watches were impractical in flight – he needed both hands on the controls. Louis Cartier’s solution not only marked the birth of an icon but is also widely considered the first purpose-built men’s wristwatch. […]

Hands-On With The Bausele Elemental Fratello
Bausele Elemental It’s not often Apr 15, 2026

Hands-On With The Bausele Elemental

It’s not often that this writer, who is Australian, gets to spend time with a watch from an Australian watch brand. But when my managing editor, Nacho, tasked me with a hands-on review of the Bausele Elemental, it was an opportunity to learn more about what allows this brand to straddle two worlds. Australian-based Bausele […] Visit Hands-On With The Bausele Elemental to read the full article.

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is Ready for Takeoff SJX Watches
Patek Philippe 5164 but only Apr 14, 2026

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is Ready for Takeoff

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is a meaningful addition to its collection of sport watches. While the brand’s convenient push-button dual-time complication is not new, it has never been available in the go-anywhere, do-anything format of the Sport line - where it arguably makes the most sense. It’s also the first time this travel complication has been paired with one of the brand’s lever escapement movements, a change that should provide the resilience against shocks that one expects from a sport watch. Initial thoughts The sport has proven to be one of Laurent Ferrier’s most popular watches, introducing the brand to a wider audience by combining sports watch ruggedness with the high-horology independent watchmaking that the brand has become famous for. In this sense, the Sport Traveller is similar in philosophy to other luxury sport watches. That said, few manage to elevate the concept quite as high as Laurent Ferrier. The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus and F.P. Journe Octa Sport Titanium are natural peers, as is the Patek Philippe 5164, but only the latter offers a travel time complication. The Sport Traveller is made from grade 5 titanium for a featherweight wrist presence, and debuts in what is likely to be a popular grey-on-grey colourway. Even the Sport Traveller dial text is grey, blending in with the dial to help keep the clutter to a minimum. The cal. LF275.01 continues the monochromatic look with grey-coated bridges and a solid platinum oscillating wei...

A Hands-On Introduction To The First Skeletonized Hermès H08 With A Brand-New Titanium Movement Fratello
Hermes Apr 14, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The First Skeletonized Hermès H08 With A Brand-New Titanium Movement

This year, Hermès is celebrating the fifth birthday of its H08. It already feels like the maison’s sporty watch, with its characteristic geometric shape, has become a real staple in the collection. But there’s more reason to celebrate, as it’s also been 20 years since Hermès acquired a 25% stake in the Swiss high-end movement […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The First Skeletonized Hermès H08 With A Brand-New Titanium Movement to read the full article.

Pinion Brings Back The Pure In A New 38mm Case Fratello
Seiko Apr 13, 2026

Pinion Brings Back The Pure In A New 38mm Case

British independent brand Pinion revives one of its earliest designs for a modern audience. Founded in 2013, Pinion launched the Pure the following year. That period also marked my renewed interest in watches after wearing a titanium Seiko for 15 years. I still own that Seiko today. Back in 2014, watch design looked very different. […] Visit Pinion Brings Back The Pure In A New 38mm Case to read the full article.

Introducing - Bell & Ross BR-X3 Micro-Rotor, More to See Than Just Time Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Micro-Rotor More Apr 6, 2026

Introducing - Bell & Ross BR-X3 Micro-Rotor, More to See Than Just Time

Parisian brand Bell & Ross has long worked with open dials, showing more of the movement instead of covering it up. With the BR-X3 line, that approach also sits well within the brand’s circle-within-a-square design language introduced in 2005. After last year’s BR-X3 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor, this new BR-X3 Micro-Rotor keeps the same idea, but this […]

Complicated Collectors: Sir David Salomons SJX Watches
Breguet watches Mar 31, 2026

Complicated Collectors: Sir David Salomons

“How can you make a watch, my dear boy?” His aunt, Jeanette Salomons, then under medical care in St. Leonards-on-Sea, wrote back to her nephew, David Lionel Salomons, in early March 1867, shortly before her death. He was 16, orphaned since his father Philip’s death earlier that year. His mother, Emma Abigail Montefiore, had died when he was eight. At the time, Salomons lived with his uncle, Sir David Salomons (1st Baronet), the Lord Mayor of London, at Great Cumberland Place, near Marble Arch, making frequent visits to a nearby watchmaker’s shop, where he learned to use a lathe and to file metal to tolerances measured in a fraction of an inch. Fifty years later, that teenage training would allow him to assemble the most comprehensive collection of Breguet watches in history. Broomhill Salomons inherited the expansive Broomhill estate in 1873 when he was 22. His uncle, the first Sir David Salomons, had died without children, and the baronetcy passed to his nephew along with the estate near Tunbridge Wells. The house stood on substantial grounds, and Salomons began altering it almost immediately. Broomhill from the south, a photograph by Sir David Lionel Salomons, 1868 (cropped). Album 19, Richard Levy Family Archive. Image – By permission of the Salomons Museum. He built workshops housing machine tools like lathes, drill presses, and milling equipment. Then came electrical apparatus. Then storage for chemicals and photographic equipment. By the 1890s, the workshop...

First Look - The New Generation Maghnam Mohareb, a Transformative Timepiece Monochrome
Hautlence have long defined Mar 27, 2026

First Look - The New Generation Maghnam Mohareb, a Transformative Timepiece

Maghnam operates within an area that few independent brands genuinely explore. Urwerk, MB&F; or even Hautlence have long defined the idea of futuristic, space-age watchmaking. Sohaib Maghnam, Qatar-based founder of Maghnam Watches, approaches the concept from a different angle. His watches are not only about unconventional displays, bold mechanics, form, structure, but also about, importantly, […]

Omega Constellation Observatory Review Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Mar 26, 2026

Omega Constellation Observatory Review

I am here in Biel, Switzerland, to witness the unveiling of a brand new Constellation line from Omega – only this fact has proven to be just half the story. While there are nine new references in this new line of watches, Omega has also taken the next step since it launched its neutral accuracy testing program, the Laboratoire de Précision (LDP). While I continue slowly burying the lede here, let’s at least introduce the audience to the new Omega Constellation Observatory, a 39.4mm fresh approach to a classic design format that sees overt nods to the “pie-pan” dial layout as well as a mid-century construction of the case and lugs. The TLDR of this release is as follows: 9 new watches (4 in gold, 4 in steel, and one in platinum gold), two new movements (two done in precious metal, and one rhodium plated), and a new breakthrough in chronometric excellence which allows for both Chronometer and Master Chronometer certification to be done acoustically obviating the need for a seconds hand in the certification process. But don’t worry, we will break down everything about this new collection and new technological feat in the (many) words below. These watches offer a decidedly dressy take on the Constellation format in that they are two-hand watches, meaning there is no visible running seconds hand to be seen anywhere on the dial. This visual marker (or rather, lack thereof) is the key to bridging the external design with the internal significance and connection to the ...