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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

3,215 articles · 275 videos found · page 26 of 117

Dryden Introduces Updates to the Chrono Diver Collection Worn & Wound
Feb 26, 2026

Dryden Introduces Updates to the Chrono Diver Collection

With all the challenges that come with owning vintage watches-servicing, wear on components, wildly varying valuation-sometimes it’s easier to look for something that simply looks vintage instead. Thankfully, we’ve seen a wave of intriguing retro-style watches as of late, and the new Dryden Watch Company Chrono Diver Gen 2 collection brings even more 1970s design to the world of modern skin divers. While the first generation of Chrono Divers from Dryden covered relatively contemporary aesthetic points, like bright colors, high-contrast details with ultra-bright Super-LumiNova, rubber straps, and more, the second generation promises an adherence to more nostalgic design cues. While the new Chrono Divers sport the same modern 42mm case dimensions, the design itself is revised; a layered profile to integrate solid end links for a new tapered five-link bracelet and recessed pushers give the watches a sleeker silhouette that harkens back to simpler skin divers of the 1960s and 1970s, rather than the bulky beasts of today.  On the aesthetic end, three new colorways are available and though they largely mirror the dial designs of the first generation, the combinations themselves are much more muted in adherence to the new vintage look. The Black Vintage and PVD Vintage styles feature light yellow indices and hands over a black dial, with white chrono subdials, whereas the Blue Panda model swaps in a dressier white dial and hands with a blue bezel and subdials. Both color...

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Review Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Feb 26, 2026

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Review

In 2017, IWC introduced a proprietary alloy called Ceratanium, or ceramized titanium, a hard, lightweight material that combined the best of ceramic and titanium. Oh, and it happened to look pretty cool as well. The material has been used sparingly in the intervening years, largely appearing across the brand’s sport-watch portfolio, from the Pilot to the Aquatimer collections. This week, Ceratanium is making its first appearance in the Portugieser collection with a new, limited-edition 41mm chronograph featuring a Ceratanium case affixed to a black rubber strap. In an effort to drive the point home, the rest of the watch is fully murdered out making the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium a decidedly sporty take on this otherwise dressier collection. [toc-section heading="What's New"] The new watch is the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it turns the classic chronograph layout on its head by rendering every detail in shades of black (insert Henry Ford quote here). The Portugieser is a historic watch with roots that date back to the late 1930s, and its modern aesthetic is largely referential to that history. That underlying design remains intact here, with a large, open dial hosting Arabic numerals at each hour, and a set of leaf hands tracking the time against them. The two subdials are arranged vertically, retaining a symmetric layout that recalls the original time-only references that had subsidiary seconds located at 6 o’clock.  Using Ceratanium (which ha...

First Look – Studio Underd0g and Time+Tide Hand Delivered, Again, with a new Duo of Pizza-Themed Watches Monochrome
Studio Underd0g Feb 25, 2026

First Look – Studio Underd0g and Time+Tide Hand Delivered, Again, with a new Duo of Pizza-Themed Watches

Whatever reasons exist for creating a watch, be it heritage, technical or design-led necessity, the Studio Underd0g x Time+Tide Hand Delivered Pizza Duo exists for a much rarer, if not unique, reason: because a joke went too far. What began as an April Fool’s prank in 2023, a pizza-themed Studio Underd0g teased by Time+Tide, unexpectedly […]

Hands-On With The Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton Fratello
Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton It’s Feb 25, 2026

Hands-On With The Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton

It’s time for a short confession: generally, I am not the biggest fan of skeletonized watches. While I greatly appreciate the possibility of witnessing a caliber in action, I much prefer to see it in action through a sapphire display in the case back. It’s purely an aesthetic thing because, as a design fanatic, I […] Visit Hands-On With The Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 X Formula 1 Edition: The Smartwatch Built for F1 Fans WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 X Feb 25, 2026

TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 X Formula 1 Edition: The Smartwatch Built for F1 Fans

As the F1 season for 2026 is about to get underway, official timing partner TAG Heuer has released a special Connected Calibre E5 X Formula 1 edition that puts you right in the action! What We Love 45 mm case size is perfect for a fitness-oriented smart watch for those with average and above wrists The ability to customise the interface and displays Interconnectivity with the F1 app – perfect for F1 fans What We Don’t Spoiler alerts if you want to watch the races after they have run (like I do) Smart watches are not for everyone, so consider if this is for you It is not designed for smaller wrists, but the 40 mm Connected range fills this void now Overall Score: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The Formula 1 season is upon us again, and 2026 marks TAG Heuer’s second year as the sport’s official timing partner. To kick off the season, which starts next week in Melbourne, TAG Heuer has released a special edition Connected E5 smartwatch designed with Formula One fans in mind. Based on the new Connected E5 45mm models released last year, this isn’t just a cosmetic redesign. The watch delivers real-time Formula One data, giving fans up-to-date information throughout the season and across each race weekend via a direct link with the F1 App and the FIA. The new TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 x F1 Edition First Impressions I reviewed the Connected E5 last year in the 40 mm case size, and it proved excellent for track...

First Look – New and Vibrant Dial Colours for the Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Series Monochrome
Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Series Feb 24, 2026

First Look – New and Vibrant Dial Colours for the Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Series

The Jazzmaster collection by Hamilton is where classical watchmaking meets contemporary design, offering mechanical substance without unnecessary ornament. With the latest Jazzmaster Open Heart models, not to be confused with the skeleton versions, Hamilton expands the series with a wide range of dial colours across three sizes, to please as many clients as possible.  The […]

Moser’s Streamliner Goes All-Ceramic for the First Time SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie dips Feb 24, 2026

Moser’s Streamliner Goes All-Ceramic for the First Time

H. Moser & Cie. dips its toes into ceramic for the first time with the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic, a bold watch that blends an original design with the high-tech proprieties of ceramic. Despite being a variation of a well-known model at its core, the new Streamliner is unexpectedly different and appealing, especially with a hand-finished ceramic bracelet, an unusual feature even in its segment. Initial thoughts The use of ceramic materials in watches is no longer a novelty. The inert and hard material is appealing for its near-invulnerability to scratches and high tech feel. Ceramics are typically employed for either for aesthetic or technical purposes, but usually for watch cases, while ceramic bracelets are almost exclusively the preserve of large brands that can afford working with the hard-to-machine material.  Though still a niche brand, H. Moser & Cie.’s bestselling Streamliner is dressed entirely in ceramic, with a ceramic case paired with a ceramic bracelet. An all-ceramic bracelet is a rare sight from a brand of Moser’s scale. The matte, brushed finish of the ceramic exterior is at the opposite end of the colour spectrum compared with the bright red yet minimalist dial, giving this the signature Moser look. The granular, glossy finish of the fired enamel dial contrast and complements the matte, stealthy sheen of ceramic.   The watch is paradoxical in some ways. Pairing Moser’s first ceramic case and bracelet with a tourbillon is somewhat incong...

A Hands-On Introduction To The Excellent Traska Chronograph Fratello
Feb 23, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The Excellent Traska Chronograph

There are so many brands in the world of watches. Consequently, it’s not only hard to keep up sometimes, but it’s even harder to find personal favorites. Sometimes it’s about design, sometimes it’s about name and heritage, and sometimes it’s about pushing technical boundaries. As a young brand, Traska adds something very important to its […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Excellent Traska Chronograph to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New Lord of the Rings Adaptation Hits the BBC, Phone Straps from Peak Design, and More EDC News Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A New Lord of the Rings Adaptation Hits the BBC, Phone Straps from Peak Design, and More EDC News

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Big I Design Unveils the Ti Manu Big I Design, the Tennessee-based “one-stop shop for titanium EDC accessories”, unveiled their newest knife design, the Ti Manu. Designed in collaboration with Ken Onion Jr, son of the Legendary Ken Onion, the Manu retains Big I’s “two screw” design, and is the first time that Big I has worked with an outside designer on one of their knives. Currently available to order through Kickstarter, the Manu features a 3.25” S90v blade with a flat grind modified drop point, Grade 5 Ti scales, and can be configured to use either washers or bearings, a feature not many knives offer. With dual thumbstuds and a reversible pocket clip, the Manu can feel right at home in the pocket of left and right-handed EDC enthusiasts. For more information on the all-new Manu, visit the Kickstarter page. Leucadia Blade Co’s LandShark Two California-based knife brands, Pro-tech Knives and Leucadia Blade Co, have teamed up to release an all-new fixed blade design dubbed the LandShark. Crafted from legendary MagnaCut steel, the LandShark features a 3.5” drop point blade, 8” overall length, and weighs in at 4 ounces while offering a unique combinatio...

The Petrolhead Corner – Old Meets New, With The 2019 Jaguar D-Type Long Nose Continuation For Sale At Hilton and Moss Monochrome
Feb 21, 2026

The Petrolhead Corner – Old Meets New, With The 2019 Jaguar D-Type Long Nose Continuation For Sale At Hilton and Moss

You’re probably thinking, “Wait, what? Wasn’t the D-Type built in the 1950s?” and you’d be absolutely right. But what we have here is a continuation car, built by Jaguar themselves based on the original plans, drawings and designs of the D-Type. So it’s old, but it’s also new. Or relatively new, that is, as Jaguar […]

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic Review: Stealth Meets Genta Design WatchAdvice
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Feb 20, 2026

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic Review: Stealth Meets Genta Design

The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic is a stealth watch with Genta’s DNA baked into the material. But does it stand on its own? Let’s find out! What We Love The Ingenieur design is adapted to black ceramic Dial legibility is still present Finishing of the material makes this a standout watch What We Don’t Lack of the quick link adjustment system on the bracelet The all-black look may not be for everyone’s tastes The 42 mm sizing makes this watch wear different to the Ingenieur 40 and may not suit a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Ingenieur dominated IWC’s 2025 Watches & Wonders releases, expanding into new sizes and materials. And, of course, there was the quickly sold-out green dial inspired by the vintage Ingenieur SL worn by Brad Pitt in F1: The Movie. But one model possibly stood apart from the rest: the 42 mm all-black ceramic Ingenieur. Not because it was louder, but because it fundamentally changed how the Ingenieur is built, worn, and perceived. We were lucky to catch up with IWC’s CEO, Chris Grainger-Herr, who explained that developing the Ingenieur in an all-ceramic case and bracelet wasn’t as simple as remaking the watch in a different material. Ceramic is notoriously hard to work with, and it is not a case of a simple material swap. It requires a lot more attention – one reason why the Ingenieur is in a slightly larger 42 mm size. Myself, Chris Grai...

Citizen and seconde/seconde/ Launch a Fun and Affordable Tsuyosa Limited Edition Worn & Wound
H. Moser Spinnaker Maen Feb 20, 2026

Citizen and seconde/seconde/ Launch a Fun and Affordable Tsuyosa Limited Edition

For years now, Romaric Andre, better known as seconde/seconde/, has been collaborating with watch brands of all kinds on creative limited editions that effectively serve as visual puns. He’s applied his unique sense of humor and aesthetic to watches made by H. Moser, Spinnaker, Maen, and many more brands at every conceivable price point. We talked to him about his process and art here. This is all to say, watch enthusiasts have a pretty good understanding of seconde/seconde/ at this point. That’s a good thing, on one level, as it means his name (or his pseudonym, at least) is out there. But it also makes it harder to surprise, which was so much a part of the charm of those early collaborations.  The latest from seconde/seconde/ is about as good a distillation of what he’s all about as I can think of, and represents a real opportunity for enthusiasts who have been waiting for something affordable and representative from the designer to latch onto. The new watch, a collaboration with Citizen, is a limited edition of that brand’s Tsuyosa integrated bracelet sports watch. This is a platform that has proven to be quite popular for Citizen in recent years, offering a way to get into the normally high priced world of integrated bracelet sports watches for a minimal initial investment. I wrote about my own experience with a Tsuyosa here, and stand by my thesis that it’s a great way to get a feel for this type of sports watch. The new limited edition features a sunray bl...

Editorial: the Ressence Renaissance Worn & Wound
Ressence Renaissance Without Feb 19, 2026

Editorial: the Ressence Renaissance

Without a doubt, I consider Ressence one of the most interesting watch brands that exists today. I recognize that this comes as an extremely bold and uniformed statement considering I’ve never seen a Ressence in the metal (a.k.a. ‘in person’ for any non-watch folks that somehow found their way here and are reading this). Considering their rarity and cost to acquire, many of y’all reading this probably haven’t seen one either; And to clarify up front: I don’t, or haven’t yet, reviewed watches for Worn & Wound; I just write somewhat interesting takes from a designers point of view on things that I find worthy, and this time around it just so happens to be the Ressence brand, of which I am deeply fond of having viewed it only on the interwebs; but I digress, back to the story! On paper, and through their perfectly crafted collaborations and partnerships, Ressence scratches all of my itches for a dream watch, albeit a watch that is extremely out of reach in price and availability for myself and many, hence the word ‘dream’. However, I fully respect and understand the price these watches sell for, because of Ressence’s approach to innovation and what goes into making each and every piece of art. I don’t actually like using the word innovative at all, if ever, because I think it is so grossly over used; but for Ressence I am happy to anoint them worthy of that distinction. This is not a new take, or a new perspective I hold, considering that Ressence has be...

In-Depth: Understanding Resonance in Watches SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s Chronomètre à Résonance Feb 19, 2026

In-Depth: Understanding Resonance in Watches

Resonance watches are among the most elusive machines in modern watchmaking. Creations such as F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance perform well at auctions, commanding high prices. While their rarity and appeal are undeniable, watches that purport to harness resonance tend to be viewed with a degree of skepticism. A measure of skepticism is understandable - the concept of sprung balances becoming almost magically coupled is anything but straightforward and requires a profound understanding of oscillators in general.   This story seeks to shed some light on the concept of coupled oscillators by explaining the two models of coupling and explore the nuances of each system. Before exploring resonance, the reader is encouraged to review the basics of sprung oscillators and isochronism in order to become more familiar with the hairspring and balance wheel model.  The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription No. 2 sold for more than CHF3 million in November 2025. A confusion of terms First, the term resonance itself requires definition. In classical physics (mechanics, electrical engineering, signal processing, etc.) resonance is a phenomenon where a system vibrates under the influence of an external driving force that matches the system’s eigenfrequency (natural frequency). This is to say that a system at rest, which includes mass and spring elements, can be excited into a state of resonance by an external force when particular conditions are met. An imp...

H. Moser Introduces their First Ceramic Watch, the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces their First Ceramic Feb 18, 2026

H. Moser Introduces their First Ceramic Watch, the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic

When it comes to high end watches, we all have our little rabbit holes that we’re particularly and endlessly fascinated by. For me, H. Moser tourbillons have been points of obsession since the first time I encountered one. There’s something about Moser’s contemporary approach to design acting as a counterpoint to the classical way a tourbillon is typically executed that I find really appealing. One of my favorite experiences reviewing a watch remains my time with the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack, which is certainly the most insane thing I’ve ever been trusted with for a watch review, and for sentimental reasons as well as just being an incredibly impressive piece of horological art, it’s probably among my favorite watches of all time.  Today Moser launches a new tourbillon, in a new material, that has me thinking of that solid gold, Vantablack Streamliner once again. The Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic is the brand’s first ever watch in ceramic, and returns to the “Concept” dial format, something that inspires many hot takes on Instagram, but is a style I’ve always loved.  The Streamliner is Moser’s sportiest watch, so it makes sense they’d debut an inherently sporty material on this platform. The 40mm case and bracelet are made entirely of ceramic in an anthracite gray color, and surfaces have been given a combination of satin finishing and polishing. Getting the finishing right on a high end ceramic watch is where the real “flex” i...

Interview – Selective Normalisation in 2026 – Overview of the Watch Industry with Jean-Philippe Bertschy, Head of Vontobel Equity Research Monochrome
Feb 18, 2026

Interview – Selective Normalisation in 2026 – Overview of the Watch Industry with Jean-Philippe Bertschy, Head of Vontobel Equity Research

Each year, this report is eagerly awaited as one of the leading guides (alongside LuxeConsult and Morgan Stanley) for the watchmaking and luxury industry, helping it navigate what can currently be described as choppy waters. Luxury Goods, the annual report by Vontobel Equity Research, has just been published. An extremely detailed analytical compendium covering the past year, […]

12 Of Our Favorite Sector-Dial Watches, From Affordable to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 17, 2026

12 Of Our Favorite Sector-Dial Watches, From Affordable to Luxury

As their name implies, sector-dial watches are recognizable for their vintage-inspired dial layout, with radial lines and concentric circles dividing the dial’s essential visual data - the hours, minutes, and seconds - into distinct segments. It’s a style that first made its way into watch design in the 1930s and ‘40s, the heyday of Art Deco, and at the time was almost certainly aimed at delivering an instrument-like legibility rather than any kind of stylish ornamentation. Today, however, the sector dial is enjoying a bit of a quiet renaissance mainly for aesthetic reasons, on a diverse array of timepieces. Whether the watch it adorns leans more toward “military tool” or “dressy accessory” in its appeal, the sector dial’s streamlined, subdivided look has proved to be anything but dated. Here are a dozen of our favorites on the market now.  [toc-section heading="Seiko 5 Sports SRPH29"] Price: $315, Case Size: 39.4mm, Thickness: 13.2mm, Lug to Lug: 48.1mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic 4R36 Seiko’s 5 Sports line takes its cues from a classic model from 1963, the Seiko 5 Sportsmatic, whose five named attributes include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case made of durable materials. The value-oriented series speaks to military mavens and aviation enthusiasts with the SRPH29 model, which straddles the line between a v...

Raketa’s 24-Hour Baikonur Takes Flight SJX Watches
Raketa Feb 17, 2026

Raketa’s 24-Hour Baikonur Takes Flight

Space-themed watches represent a sizable proportion of the luxury watch industry. In fact, there are so many that at times it seems like the Space Race itself might have been contrived solely as a marketing concept for luxury watches. But with a story this good, who can say no? Of course, it helps that the Raketa Baikonur is an appealing watch in its own right with convenient dual-time functionality and an attractive instrument-like 24-hour dial. Initial thoughts “They’ve got a man up there! It’s Gagarin!” Even though this imagined line was written for the 1983 film adaptation of Tom Wolfe’s The Right Stuff, it sums up the tension that underpinned the Space Race between the United States and the Soviet Union. The statement refers to Soviet Cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin, who became the first human in space in 1961, orbiting the Earth in 108 minutes. It’s a suitably dramatic event to commemorate with a wristwatch, especially from Raketa, a brand named in honour of Gagarin’s flight. Instrument-like dials can be boring, but the designers at Raketa did just enough to keep it interesting, referencing the brand’s emblematic Big Zero at noon and midnight, without taking it too far. An internal rotating flange offers an auxiliary 24-hour scale, adjustable by the second crown. This facilitates keeping track of two time zones with full AM/PM resolution, something that’s actually quite rare. The dial also positions noon at the traditional 12 o’clock position, which is wel...

The Italian-American Civil Rights League: A Look Back at an Italian Legacy Through the Lens of a Wristwatch Worn & Wound
Rolex Air King Feb 16, 2026

The Italian-American Civil Rights League: A Look Back at an Italian Legacy Through the Lens of a Wristwatch

The vintage watch market is constantly littered with timepieces featuring organizational logos, slogans, and company mascots on their dials. Wristwatch anniversary gifts and promotional products were incredibly common throughout the 20th and early 21st centuries because of their ability to advertise on someone’s wrist, similar to cars with advertising wraps for insurance and real estate companies nowadays. Many of these watches have degraded in value over time as a result of their engraved case backs and personalizations that some collectors find unappealing. However, there are some timepieces of this genre that hold their value to this day, my favorite example being the iconic Domino’s Pizza Rolex Air King that always seems to worm its way onto my Instagram feed. The watch at the heart of this article would easily be passed by many collectors on their escapades through online auction websites. I’ll admit it: I glanced right over the listing several times when it was first posted, foolishly thinking it was another inexpensive piece of advertising from the 1970s. It wasn’t until I put two-and-two together, realizing that the Italian-American Civil Rights League was an organization I had previously researched and had established an interest in, that I went back and instantly added the watch to my cart. For those of you unfamiliar with this organization and its history, allow me to introduce you to them and illustrate just how rare this watch’s existence is today. A...

Hands-On With The Extravagant Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series Fratello
Feb 16, 2026

Hands-On With The Extravagant Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series

Sometimes, extravagant timepieces come along and light up my life as a watch writer. You should have seen the look on my face when three Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic models landed on my desk. I knew that they were coming in, but they still surprised me. These extravagant watches display bold Italian design that looks like […] Visit Hands-On With The Extravagant Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series to read the full article.

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 Feb 13, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm

One of the longest tenured models in the Audemars Piguet (AP) catalogue, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm has been upgraded with a new manufacture calibre and sapphire case back for the first time, while only slightly tweaking the iconic design and price tag. Inside the new ref. 26450 is the cal. 6401 that incorporates with welcome quality-of-life improvements such as a longer power reserve, higher beat rate, and instantaneous date. The new movement accomplishes all of this without significant tradeoffs in size, but it arguably falls somewhat short in aesthetics. Minor shortcomings aside, the modestly sized Royal Oak Chronograph is a strong offering that enters the field at the top of its class. Initial thoughts In the same fashion as last year’s updated Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, the new 38 mm Royal Oak Chronograph takes an evolutionary, rather than revolutionary, step forward, being essentially the same watch, only better. AP clearly knows better than to mess with a winning formula, but the brand also faced challenges, both in manufacturing and customer experience, that came with a nearly four-decade-old movement platform, sourced from Swatch Group no less. The changes are slight, even insignificant at first glance, but are the sort things that come to be appreciated with long-term ownership, especially within a smaller collection where increases in power reserve and performance are most noticeable. It even looks slightly better – the dial is less cram...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm Feb 12, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm

Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 has spent much of its life living in the shadow of the Royal Oak, but the latest 38 mm iteration suggests the collection might be finding its footing. The smaller Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding 38 mm refines the line’s distinctive case architecture with more convincing proportions, slimmer leather straps, and richly textured embossed dials. Neither overtly sporty nor conventionally dressy, the 18k rose gold Code 11.59 positions itself as a modern dress watch with real character that is quite convincing on the wrist. Initial thoughts It’s no secret that the Code 11.59 lives in the shadow of AP’s flagship product, the Royal Oak. In the seven years since its debut, the Code has yet to have its breakout moment. Many may remember the troubled launch of the collection, which met with an unnecessarily negative response from the market. But there’s a thin line between love and hate, and AP has been steadily improving the proportions, textures, materials, and complications over the past few years, and the tipping point could be imminent. The Code claims the middle ground in the false dichotomy between dressy and sporty, which makes it difficult for casual enthusiasts and collectors to fully understand. The 38 mm size, now with a new strap design, helps position the Code more concretely in the the dress watch camp, where its 9.6 mm thickness and 30 m water resistance rating feel more appropriate. Despite the criticism that’s been l...