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Results for Applied vs Printed Indices

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Trying On Two Versions Of The Holthinrichs Signature Ornament, The Dutch Brand’s Entry-Level Watch Fratello
Holthinrichs Signature Ornament Feb 17, 2025

Trying On Two Versions Of The Holthinrichs Signature Ornament, The Dutch Brand’s Entry-Level Watch

Michiel Holthinrichs, an architect turned watch manufacturer, made a name for himself and his brand by introducing the world’s first watch with a 3D-printed stainless steel case in 2016. State-of-the-art technology and machining processes created cases with swooping lines and sensual curves, but the human touch made the watches sexy; the machines could only do […] Visit Trying On Two Versions Of The Holthinrichs Signature Ornament, The Dutch Brand’s Entry-Level Watch to read the full article.

Review: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in Steel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Jan 13, 2025

Review: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in Steel

First launched in 18k yellow gold a little over two years ago, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 finally debuts in stainless steel. Sticking to the familiar vintage-remake template established by the gold model, the 222 retains the familiar “bottle cap” bezel and applied Maltese cross emblem, but in brushed steel. Like the gold model, the 222 “Jumbo” in steel is executed to a high level of fit and finish – certainly superior to that of the vintage original – and it’s presented in the classic livery of a matte blue dial (great) and faux-vintage lume (not so much). More importantly, the steel 222 substantially more affordable than the gold version, about half as expensive in fact. Initial thoughts The 222 in gold was well received at launch in 2022; it helped that the roll-out took place when integrated bracelet sports watches were all the rage. That success made the steel version a certainty. Vacheron Constantin (VC) took a little longer than I expected to unveil the steel 222, but now it’s finally here. The watch is, admittedly, predictable. It has all of the familiar elements found in the vintage originals and then the gold reissue. But it is still appealing, because the quality of execution is high and the proportions of the watch are good. Compare this to a vintage 222 and the improvement in build quality, particularly of the bracelet, is immediately obvious. Although the steel 222 is compact by modern standards, it has the refined quality of a con...

The Longines Conquest Heritage in Red Dégradé SJX Watches
Longines Conquest Heritage Jan 7, 2025

The Longines Conquest Heritage in Red Dégradé

Ordinarily a faithful vintage remake with an old-school aesthetic, the Conquest Heritage gets a makeover for the Chinese Lunar New Year. The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake stands out with a striking red gradient dial featuring gold-plated hands and indices. And for the occasion, the back bears an engraved snake motif penned by Chinese contemporary artist Wu Jian’an, who drew inspiration from the ancient Chinese fable, “Legend of the White Snake”. Initial thoughts The Conquest Heritage Year of the Snake offers something more modern and striking, instead of the conservative look of the standard model that has a silver or black dial. I particularly like the fact that the snake motif is limited to an engraving on the case back, as having it on the dial would have been overly ornate. It’s priced at US$3,150, almost exactly the same as the regular production model, which makes it a decent value proposition. It has a workmanlike quality appropriate for the price, while the high-spec ETA movement inside is one of its strengths. And like other zodiac-theme watches, this would have resonance for those born in the Year of the Snake a meaningful way to commemorate the occasion, not unlike wearing a birthstone. Vintage inspired The snake edition is identical to the standard model save for the dial and case back engraving. Water resistant to 50 m, the stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter, 10.7 mm in thickness, and entirely polished. It’s slightly larger than the ori...

Insight: Updated Criteria for the Patek Philippe Seal SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Seal Patek Philippe had Dec 8, 2024

Insight: Updated Criteria for the Patek Philippe Seal

Patek Philippe had an active 2024, not just because of the launch of the ref. 5330G World Time with Date, a massive collection of Rare Handcrafts, and of course the Cubitus. But equally notable was the announcement of updates to the Patek Philippe Seal. Buried on the last page of its 2024 Watches & Wonders brochure was some fine print about some updates to the brand’s internal certification that superseded the longstanding Poinçon de Genève in 2009. The updates applied to two things that watch enthusiasts love to argue about: water resistance and rate accuracy. Officially rated to 30 m and -1/+2 seconds a day Initial thoughts Water resistance is never far from the minds of watch geeks, so it’s no surprise that this is dominated the discourse when the announcement was made earlier in the year; the idea of a Nautilus rated to just 30 m was concerning to many. Apparently even the fact that the watch itself was unchanged did little to quiet the nerves. Perhaps because people enjoy the opportunity to punch up, far more attention was paid to the issue of water resistance than the meaningful updates made to timekeeping testing and certification, which cement Patek Philippe’s position as the leader in high-end mechanical timekeeping at scale. The cal. 240 PS CI J LU of the Cubitus ref. 5822P also features a Spiromax hairspring, clearly visible Thirty meters But let’s get water resistance out of the way. Patek Philippe now guarantees all of its water-resistant watches to ...

Introducing – Awake Honours the Tradition of Poppies on Remembrance Day with its Son Maì ‘The Poppies’ Monochrome
Nov 18, 2024

Introducing – Awake Honours the Tradition of Poppies on Remembrance Day with its Son Maì ‘The Poppies’

Our readers might remember reading about the fledgeling French brand Awake, which has taken the ancestral Vietnamese art of sanded natural lacquer and applied it to the dial of its first permanent collection, Son Mài. Inspired by the bright red colour of Remembrance Day poppies, Awake has produced a special Son Maì edition and will […]

First Look – Celebrating the 20th Anniversary of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony with a Design by Ora ïto Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Oct 9, 2024

First Look – Celebrating the 20th Anniversary of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony with a Design by Ora ïto

Vacheron Constantin celebrates the 20th anniversary of its Patrimony collection with a special edition produced in collaboration with French designer Ito Morabito, more widely known as Ora ïto. The understated soul of the Patrimony is inspired by Vacheron’s slim men’s dress watches of the 1950s, a formula applied across the board to all Patrimony references. […]

Louis Erard and Kudoke Collaborate on Le Régulateur SJX Watches
Louis Erard Sep 11, 2024

Louis Erard and Kudoke Collaborate on Le Régulateur

Louis Erard’s continues its collaborative streak with independent watchmakers. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Kudoke is essentially a Louis Erard regulator model dressed in Kudoke’s signature dial and hands. Available in purple, forest green, light blue or white mother-of-pearl, the dial goes all-in with the details. It sports applied chapter rings, clous de Paris patterning on the hour register, and a stamped granular finish on the rest of the dial, echoing the aesthetic of Kudoke’s Handwerk collection. Initial thoughts The new model boasts impressive dial details that are usually found in pricier timepieces, while managing to retain the identities of both brands in a best-of-both-worlds presentation, making it arguably one of Louis Erard’s very best collaborations. But because it is fundamentally a Le Régulateur, it has the shortcomings of the model, namely a noticeably thick case that’s required to accommodate the Sellita base movement plus regulator module. Still, the Kudoke Le Régulateur is a good value proposition all things considered. Though slightly more expensive, the mother-of-pearl model stands out as it offers an unusual combination of materials and design in this price segment. Affordable guilloché The stainless steel case is identical to that of the standard model, and measures 42 mm in diameter and 12.25 mm in thickness. It is entirely polished and features domed sapphire crystals on both sides. The dial retains the model’s trademark in-lin...

Introducing – The Parmigiani Fleurier x PRJKT8 Tonda PF Skeleton Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier x PRJKT8 Tonda PF Aug 27, 2024

Introducing – The Parmigiani Fleurier x PRJKT8 Tonda PF Skeleton

Parmigiani Fleurier and Bahraini partner PRJKT8 present a special edition Tonda PF Skeleton. Limited to just 8 examples, the exclusive timepiece features flamed graphite blue indices that offer a striking contrast to the masterfully crafted, graphite-coloured openworked dial.  Based on one of the most appealing models within the now classic Tonda PF collection, the brand’s […]

Hands-on – The Irresistible Allure of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph Aug 16, 2024

Hands-on – The Irresistible Allure of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph

Ever-evolving, Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 collection was given a facelift in 2023 with a series of stainless steel models. Respectful of the complex case architecture that has few detractors, the controversy surrounding the somewhat dull dials of the inaugural members was addressed with a new embossed dial pattern and revisited indices, hands and typeface. A […]

Hands-on – Revisiting the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in White Gold Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Aug 6, 2024

Hands-on – Revisiting the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in White Gold

Initially introduced in 2022 as part of the 50th-anniversary celebrations of the Royal Oak, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked was first released in steel (reference 16204ST), featuring a steel-grey skeletonized movement and contrasting pink gold hands and indices. Following this, the watch was also made available in pink, yellow and white gold cases. While the […]

REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Prospex 4R Diver Black “Shog-Urai” WatchAdvice
Seiko s Prospex 4R Diver Aug 2, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Prospex 4R Diver Black “Shog-Urai”

We examine Seiko’s latest rendition of its iconic “Samurai” and “Shogun” models in this in-depth hands-on review. What We Love: Slimmed-down design of the previous Samurai/Shogun timepieces The hour indices and hands are much more appealing design The all-black look makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Unique dial design can take getting used to for non-enthusiasts The movement seems outdated for this latest 2024 offering Power reserve is sub-par for a timepiece of this calibre. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko’s latest Prospex Diver collection, an update to the 4R Diver models, was released only a few short months ago. The Japanese watchmaker released three timepieces of this signature model, with colours varying from burgundy red (SRPL11) to black on steel (SRPL13) and black-coated (SRPL15). This year is also the 20th anniversary of the very first timepiece this new model references, celebrating a long yet somewhat turbulent history. The latest Seiko Prospex 4R Diver has a much more “sleek” design, having been slimmed down from previous versions. You might be wondering by now how this timepiece gets the “Shog-Urai” nickname! Well, we have to retrace back some steps to Seiko’s previous Prospex Divers models, which were named Samurai and Shogun. While this wasn’t Seiko’s official nickname for these timepieces upon their release, it’s the Seiko enthusiast who has graced ...

Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger Worn & Wound
Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions Jul 25, 2024

Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger

Lacher & Co. (Laco) is widely considered one of the pioneers of the German pilot watch genre. They have been crafting Flieger style timepieces in Pforzheim since 1925 and have truly mastered the art. They are experts at blending almost a century’s worth of expertise with innovative new ideas and technology. Traditional Flieger watches are recognized for their large, high-contrast black dials featuring stark white hands, numerals, and indices. In an effort to add charm and flair to the traditional, Laco is introducing new variations of their classic Augsburg and Aachen watches with fresh green dials. The difference between those two models lies in their dial configurations. The Augsburg follows the typical Type A dial layout, with a standard minute track surrounding the outer edge of the dial, and features beautiful, oversized hands. Alternatively, the Aachen has a Type B dial layout known as B-Uhr, or Beobachtungsuhren, which translates to observation watch. The latter’s perimeter displays the minutes, while a smaller track closer to the center shows the hours. As a result, the hands are quite different. The sword-shaped minute hand has most of its weight in the second half of its length, and the hour hand is shortened so that its tip stays within the inner circle. With their polished steel-framed hands and new green dials, they most certainly feel more contemporary and fashionable. Powering these pilot watches is the Laco 2S, which is based on the Miyota 82S0 caliber....

Breitling Teams Up with NBA Superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo SJX Watches
Breitling Teams Up Jul 19, 2024

Breitling Teams Up with NBA Superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo

Breitling’s latest collaboration is a pair of limited-edition Chronomats conceived together with Giannis Antetokounmpo, the Greek-Nigerian basketballer who plays for the NBA’s Milwaukee Bucks. The entry-level model is the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Giannis Antetokounmpo in stainless steel, an edition of 1,750 pieces. And then there’s the Chronomat B01 42 Giannis Antetokounmpo in 18k red gold that’s limited to 250. Both share the same dial with baton indices, finished in a green reminiscent of the Milwaukee Bucks’ team colours. And NBA superstar himself gets a unique creation: an all-red gold Chronomat B01 42 with the same green dial but with the registers and flange in contrasting white, along with Eastern-Arabic numerals (pictured above). Initial thoughts The Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are essentially identical to the respective standard Chronomat models, save for the dial colour that’s  a brighter shade of green, along with the basketballer’s discreet “GA” as the second hands counterweight. The chronograph has the addition of a basketball emblem on the seconds register. The basketball elements in the design are minimal, so the two are a good cosmetic alternative to the standard models, even for someone who doesn’t follow basketball since the sport. That’s especially so since the Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are priced the same as the standard models: the GMT costs US$6,150, while the B01 chronograph is US$42,500 on the red gold Rouleaux brac...

The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Releases are Unveiled Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Jun 17, 2024

The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Releases are Unveiled

For a brand that has been around since 1881, it only makes sense for Seiko to look back into their archives to recreate some of its most classic watches. That’s exactly what they’ve done with what has been billed the Heritage Design Re-Creation Limited Edition Collection. Drawing from popular styles from the 1960’s and 70’s, Seiko’s Heritage Design takes elements from these retro reference points and has applied them to the ever-popular Seiko 5 Sports model. For the new SRPL03 and SRPL05, the case measures in at a comfortable 38.5mm in stainless steel, perfectly suitable for a variety of occasions. The case is complemented by a steel bracelet that is an updated version of the original, using contemporary design and material upgrades for a more comfortable wear. If you’d rather opt for a strap, you’re in luck – a retro-inspired leather strap, reminiscent of the time when the original model was popular. The main difference between the SRPL03 and SRPL05 is found under the curved Hardlex crystal: the 03 has a modern silver dial, while the 05 has a more classic black option. For both watches in the Heritage Design Re-Creation collection, the watches run on an automatic 4R36 caliber movement, which promises approximately 41 hours of power.  Each reference is limited to 9,999 pieces and will be available July 2024 via Seiko’s website. The retail price for each is $450. Seiko Images from this post: The post The Latest Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Releases are ...

Introducing: The Breitling SuperOcean Rainbow And 46mm Super Diver Editions Fratello
Breitling SuperOcean Rainbow Jun 12, 2024

Introducing: The Breitling SuperOcean Rainbow And 46mm Super Diver Editions

Breitling sets the mood for summer with two colorful rainbow SuperOceans in 36mm and 42mm cases. The 42mm stainless steel version has rainbow-shaded hands and indices and is available with striking rubber straps. Conversely, the 36mm rainbow option has a steel case with an 18k red gold bezel grip and white ceramic inlay. The 46mm […] Visit Introducing: The Breitling SuperOcean Rainbow And 46mm Super Diver Editions to read the full article.

Just Because – Audemars Piguet Unveils an Unprecedented Polychrome Camouflage Gold Alloy Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Unveils May 31, 2024

Just Because – Audemars Piguet Unveils an Unprecedented Polychrome Camouflage Gold Alloy

Earlier this year, alongside multiple new watches such as the RO Perpetual with John Mayer and the Sand Gold alloy applied to an RO Openworked Tourbillon, Audemars Piguet also presented an unexpected and entirely novel multi-coloured ceramic called chroma ceramic featuring a polarising but cool camouflage pattern. In the same vein, Audemars Piguet now applies […]

First Look – Holthinrichs Launches the Signature Series, its new Entry-Level Model Monochrome
Holthinrichs Launches May 31, 2024

First Look – Holthinrichs Launches the Signature Series, its new Entry-Level Model

One of the now well-established independent watchmakers of the Dutch scene, Holthinrichs has been from the earliest stages of its development focused on a rather unique feature; 3D-printed cases made in all sorts of materials (including steel, titanium, bronze or gold). Of course, there’s more to the brand than just that, including a strong design […]

A Technical Perspective – Understanding The Art of Guilloché Dials and Examples of Guilloché Patterns Monochrome
May 3, 2024

A Technical Perspective – Understanding The Art of Guilloché Dials and Examples of Guilloché Patterns

Known under the French name Guillochage, engine turning consists of adorning wood or metal with intertwined lines. It is an engraving technique that originated over five centuries ago. Initially, it was applied to soft materials such as wood and ivory before being adapted to metals, particularly for the craft of goldsmiths and silversmiths. Allegedly first […]

Louis Erard Drops Another Abstract Atelier Oï Edition SJX Watches
Louis Erard Drops Another Abstract Atelier Apr 23, 2024

Louis Erard Drops Another Abstract Atelier Oï Edition

In 2021, Louis Erard collaborated with a Swiss design studio on the Le Régulateur x atelier oï, a strikingly minimalist regulator-style watch with a dial devoid of scales, indices, or branding. Originally presented in a restrained grey, this collaboration now returns with a brighter, gilt finish inspired by sundials in a notably small run of just 18 pieces. Initial thoughts  Louis Erard’s newest offering has a captivating aesthetic that is both minimalist and striking, albeit not particularly legible. Unlike its predecessor, this has a more richer look with a golden dial that contrasts with the blued steel hands. The colour diverts the eyes towards the asymmetrical radial pattern engraved on the dial. The rest of the watch is identical to the earlier edition, which also means the same case as the standard regulator model. The downside of that is the thickness, which at over 12 mm is substantial for a watch with a relatively elegant design. The Atelier Oï regular is priced at CHF3,750, which is the prevailing price for most Louis Erard regulator editions, like the Oliver Mosset released in January. The new offering is a compelling timepiece for someone looking for something more artistic than the conventional offerings on the market. Inspired by a sundial The newest release follows on Louis Erard’s first collaboration with the Swiss design studio in 2021. With the exception of the dial colour, the watch retains the same specs as before. It has a regulator-style dial...

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum SJX Watches
Rolex Debuts Apr 10, 2024

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum

Last year, Rolex made waves with its new dress watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. Initially comprising four references in yellow and white gold with silver and black dials, the 1908 now gains a new addition: the Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52506) in platinum. Continuing with the Rolex tradition of a dial colour unique to platinum models, the new 1908 features an ice blue dial finished with rice-grain guilloché that is traditionally applied with a rose engine. Initial thoughts The release of the 1908 was unexpected and marked a departure from the brand’s focus on sports watches. The models launched last year, however, were conservatively styled. The introduction of a guilloché dial, a first for the range, livens up the aesthetics of the 1908 while still retaining the overall design. The traditional engine-turning lends a three-dimensional effect to the dial, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. Additionally, it adds an artisanal touch to the model. The platinum ref. 52506 is priced at US$30,900, a sizeable increase over its yellow and white gold counterparts, but comparable to the pricing for other Rolex models, particularly with the addition of the guilloche dial. The Perpetual 1908 introduced last year in white gold (left) and yellow gold (right) “Rice-grain” guilloché The latest release showcases a striking ice blue dial adorned with an intricate guilloché “rice-grain” motif, achieved through the engraving technique of guillochage, whereby an engraver employs an eng...