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Plan-les-Ouates

Geneva industrial suburb; modern manufactures of Patek Philippe (1996), Vacheron Constantin (2005), Piaget (2001), Rolex case-making.

Hublot’s Latest Big Bang is Made From Novak Djokovic’s Racquets SJX Watches
Hublot s Latest Big Bang Dec 16, 2024

Hublot’s Latest Big Bang is Made From Novak Djokovic’s Racquets

Hublot’s latest release is a limited edition created in collaboration with Novak Djokovic, the tennis champion who has 24 Grand Slam titles. The Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is encased in a carbon composite that recycles the player’s tennis racquets and Lacoste polo t-shirts. And its movement has been reworked to utilise aluminium bridges and plates, ensuring the entire watch weighs less than a tennis ball. Initial thoughts Often criticised for its pricey, Sellita-equipped entry-level models and numerous limited editions, Hublot is sometimes controversial. The brand’s higher-end watches, however, are usually more interesting (and occasionally very complex) and sometimes better value. Priced at US$52,700, the Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is expensive enough that it’s not a value proposition. It is, however, interesting for the case material. Moreover it holds a special appeal for fans of Novak Djokovic. And intrinsically, it is technically competent as it’s equipped with a modified Unico movement that is mostly aluminium and ultra light. Tennis racquets Sized like the standard Big Bang Unico, this measures 42 mm by 14.5 mm. The case material, however, is unique. The case and bezel are in a composite derived from 25 Head tennis racquets, 17 dark blue and 15 light blue Lacoste polo t-shirts used by Djokovic throughout the 2023 season. These ground-up racquets and shirts are mixed with an epoxy resin reinforced with quartz powder and glass, resulting in a distinc...

Introducing - Artya Releases a Collection of One-of-a-Kind Chronographs in a Wide Variety of Materials and Colours Monochrome
Dec 13, 2024

Introducing - Artya Releases a Collection of One-of-a-Kind Chronographs in a Wide Variety of Materials and Colours

Whether you appreciate or not the styles and designs, which can sometimes be very striking, Artya, the brainchild of Yvan Arpa, is one of the most creative brands around – even though recently, the Stairway to Heaven collection has proved less polarising. Not shy of using unconventional materials for his cases and dials, Arpa is […]

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Titanium Bronze Gold Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Titanium Dec 5, 2024

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Titanium Bronze Gold

Less than a month ago, Omega introduced two new Seamaster Diver 300M versions. Those instantly grabbed the number-one spot in my imaginary “favorite modern Seamaster” ranking by taking the watch’s current design and toning it down. On the off chance that you might consider those two a bit bland, Omega is back with something much […] Visit Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Titanium Bronze Gold to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Vintage Rolex Watches Fratello
Rolex Watches Another Friday another Nov 29, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Vintage Rolex Watches

Another Friday, another list! After last week’s list of GPHG winners, we return to the universe of vintage Rolex. Why? As we were browsing for entries for previous lists, we stumbled upon some amazing Rolex watches that you rarely see. This list, therefore, praises some of the Genevan brand’s less highlighted watches from the past. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Vintage Rolex Watches to read the full article.

Business News: Laurent Perves Appointed CEO of Vacheron Constantin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin As Vacheron Constantin gears Nov 29, 2024

Business News: Laurent Perves Appointed CEO of Vacheron Constantin

As Vacheron Constantin gears up to mark its 270th anniversary in 2025, the brand has just announced Laurent Perves will assume the top job at the start of the new year. Having been the Chief Commercial Officer since 2022, Mr Perves succeeds Louis Ferla, who is now in charge of Cartier. Mr Perves is well positioned to lead the storied Geneva brand into its next chapter, having held management roles in the key departments of the manufacture, namely marketing, communications, and commercial. Although he began his career in fragrances, where he rose to senior roles in Proctor & Gamble, Mr Perves started in the watch industry a decade ago. He joined Audemars Piguet in 2014 as head of communications, before being tapped to become the chief marketing officer at Vacheron Constantin in 2016. Since 2022 he was the number two at Vacheron Constantin as chief commercial officer, where he oversaw the brand’s commercial strategy but also built relationships with key clients and collectors in general. Despite the high bar set by the Berkley pocket watch – the most complicated watch ever – Mr Perves and his team have put together an impressive lineup of products for the brand’s 270th anniversary, which will be debuted progressively over the next year.  

Hands-On With The Latest Vibrant TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Nov 23, 2024

Hands-On With The Latest Vibrant TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph

This weekend, Max Verstappen will vie for victory in the Formula 1 World Championship in Las Vegas. The Dutchman won his first F1 title in 2021 and could now win his fourth consecutive title to become the sixth driver to achieve that milestone. As most of you know, TAG Heuer is a proud partner of […] Visit Hands-On With The Latest Vibrant TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph to read the full article.

Universal Genève Returns with Polerouter SAS Tribute Trio SJX Watches
Breitling s private-equity owners last Nov 22, 2024

Universal Genève Returns with Polerouter SAS Tribute Trio

Having been acquired by Breitling’s private-equity owners last year, Universal Genève is scheduled to officially come back to life in 2026. But ahead of its revival in two years, the brand has unveiled a trio of one-off vintage remakes, the Polerouter SAS Tribute. Commemorating the 70th anniversary of the inaugural Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) flight across the North Pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, the three watches are modelled on the Polerouter, a watch created especially for the pilots of SAS. Notably, the Polerouter was designed by the late Gérald Genta when he was just 23 years old. The SAS Tribute is made up of three unique watches, one each in stainless steel, 18k white gold, and 18k red gold, with the white gold example slated to be sold at Phillips in May 2025 with proceeds going to a Geneva arts school. The remaining pair will be retained by Universal Genève as part of its archive and will not be offered for sale. Initial thoughts The Polerouter trio are essentially faithful remakes, right down to the new-old-stock cal. 1-69  micro-rotor movement inside, but with dials in modern colours and finishes. While drawing inspiration from the vintage design, they look modern. The trio isn’t particularly imaginative, though it will appeal to fans of the brand’s vintage watches. Such remakes aren’t enough to revive a Universal Genève, though the brand’s attention to its historical models will be appreciated by enthusiasts. Whether or not Universal...

Breguet “Marie Antoinette” Watch to go on Show in London SJX Watches
Breguet Marie Antoinette” Watch Nov 22, 2024

Breguet “Marie Antoinette” Watch to go on Show in London

The fabled Breguet no. 160 “Marie Antoinette” (pictured above, image credit Baruch Coutts) was reputedly made for the last queen of France, but was so complicated that it took decades to complete, by which time the queen was long dead. Stolen in 1983 and then recovered in 2007, the legendary watch started by Abraham-Louis Breguet will be on display for the first time outside of the L.A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art In Jerusalem since its recovery. From December 12, the Breguet “Marie Antoinette” will be on show at the Science Museum in London (which is also home to important George Daniels creations, including the unfinished watch and the Space Traveller II). The Breguet Marie Antoinette is  part of Versailles: Science and Splendour, an exhibition dedicated to the scientific and technology discoveries related to the French royal court in the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibition explores a 120-year span of scientific progress at Versailles, illustrating the scientific endeavours accomplished during the reigns of Louis XIV, Louis XV, and Louis XVI. The mythical watch While the exhibition will include over 100 exhibits, watch enthusiasts will know the highlight is Breguet no. 160, the grand complication commissioned in 1783, by Marie Antoinette’s lover according to legend, hence its longstanding nickname. A no-expense-spared commission, watch no. 160 was only completed in 1827, having been delayed by A.-L. Breguet’s exile during the French Revolution. By the t...

Larcum Kendall and K1: The Greatest Watchmaker and Watch You Have (Probably) Never Heard Of Quill & Pad
Nov 21, 2024

Larcum Kendall and K1: The Greatest Watchmaker and Watch You Have (Probably) Never Heard Of

You may have heard of a few or more of the following historical people and events: Thomas Mudge, George Graham, John Harrison, the Longitude Prize, Captain James Cook, and the mutiny on the 'HMS Bounty.' However, you are less likely to have heard the name of a horologist who played a pivotal role in all of the above: Larcum Kendall (1719–1790). Come with me on a worldwide adventure involving timekeeping and history.

Voutilainen Gives the KV20i Reversed a Cherry Facelift SJX Watches
Voutilainen Gives Nov 18, 2024

Voutilainen Gives the KV20i Reversed a Cherry Facelift

Although the Voutilainen style is rooted in tradition, sometimes it encompasses less-than-conservative watches, like the Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Cherry, a colourful variant of the brand’s signature inverted-movement model. Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected contemporary independent watchmakers - and for good reason. He has struck a perfect balance between the artisanal aspects of horology with enough business acumen to guarantee him absolute creative liberty and longevity. Despite his success, Mr Voutilainen didn’t scale up his namesake brand, instead choosing to continue making small-run timepieces. While the KV20i Reversed Cherry is not a limited edition, only a handful will be made, as is typical of the brand. Initial thoughts The Vingt-8 Reversed is a staple of the Voutilainen collection, having started five years ago with the 28TI – short for “Titanium Inverse”. An evolution of the Inverse, the KV20i Reversed is remarkably similar, although much has changed in terms of details. Voutilainen wristwatches are characterised by two key traits: impeccable movements and hand-made guilloche dials sporting deep and rich patterns. The Reversed puts the former in the front, taking the place of the dial, while guilloche is concealed on the back.  While a guilloché front dial will surely be missed, the visible mechanics more than compensate. The latest incarnation of Voutilainen’s in-house cal. 28 reverses the construction, which required a number ...

Chronicles of Precision: The Quest for Equation of Time Part I SJX Watches
Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante Nov 18, 2024

Chronicles of Precision: The Quest for Equation of Time Part I

Central to our comprehension of time is the intricate interplay between the celestial dance of heavenly bodies and the pursuit of accuracy. Throughout history, mankind’s perception and quantification of time has evolved with its interaction with the natural environment. From ancient times when the rhythm of the Sun governed daily existence to the modern day of standardised timekeeping ushered in by mechanical innovations, human ingenuity has been instrumental in shaping this odyssey. Unfolding within this tale is the rare horological complication, the equation of time, a captivating chapter in the ongoing saga of humanity’s temporal exploration. The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 with its kidney-shaped cam that governs the equation of time display. Image – Breguet Dawn of Timekeeping: Celestial Observations and Ancient Innovations The genesis of civilisation ushered in humanity’s bond with the cosmos, as early communities devotedly charted the celestial events that dictated the rhythm of their lives. This connection was not merely academic; the alternation of day and night, the moon’s phases, and the Sun’s shifting journey through the heavens were the foundation upon which the ancients built their methods of marking time. In civilisations like those of Mesopotamia, Egypt, and ancient China, a deep-seated knowledge of the heavens was crucial for survival. The predictable cycles of day and night governed the timing of essential activities such ...

#TBT Racing Legends Jim Clark And Stirling Moss Wearing Enicar Watches Fratello
Nov 14, 2024

#TBT Racing Legends Jim Clark And Stirling Moss Wearing Enicar Watches

Having past ambassadors who became icons in their fields of activity is priceless. Some of these connections are real, and some are more of a wish. It’s important to navigate through tons of lies and fairytales made up to boost the value of vintage watches and just stick to the facts. Jim Clark or Stirling […] Visit #TBT Racing Legends Jim Clark And Stirling Moss Wearing Enicar Watches to read the full article.

First Look - A New Silver Dial for the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Incl Nov 6, 2024

First Look - A New Silver Dial for the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver (Incl. Video)

Zenith stole the headlines in 1969 with the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, aptly named ‘El Primero’. With less fanfare, Zenith also launched its heavy-duty Defy watch with an angular octagonal case, groovy orange bakelite bezel, and impressive water-resistance. Nicknamed the ‘vault’, the Defy Plongeur ref. 3648 was a monster of the abyss capable […]

Biver Reveals Unique Automatique for Charity SJX Watches
Nov 4, 2024

Biver Reveals Unique Automatique for Charity

Although it’s been less than two years since its founding, Biver has already launched its second model, the Automatique. Using that as the base, the brand created the Automatique “Echoes of this Moment”, a unique piece crafted in collaboration with a Swiss artist for TimeForArt, a charity auction taking place in November to benefit the Swiss Institute, a nonprofit focused on contemporary art education. Initial thoughts The standard Automatique is undeniably a finely executed watch, especially the micro-rotor automatic calibre within. Although the aesthetics of the regular-production model aren’t perfectly cohesive, the exquisite quality of the movement and attention to detail make it one of the most interesting new time-only creations from an independent. This unique piece improves the aesthetics of the Automatique because it simplifies the design. The standard version has an elaborately finished dial that combines too many elements – faceted indices, brushed sectors, an engraved seconds track, and sharp polished hands. In contrast, the unique Automatique keeps the look simple, while still having a complex, artisanal dial decoration. Here the handmade dial – that’s both engraved and enamelled – can be admired for what it is, with no distractions. An artful dial The New York-based Swiss Institute was set up to promote contemporary art through events and exhibitions. Now in its second edition, TimeForArt was conceived to benefit the non-profit. Biver is one o...

Heinrich Introduces New Watches Featuring Carbon Dials with Integrated Lume Worn & Wound
Laco Limes Stowa Oct 28, 2024

Heinrich Introduces New Watches Featuring Carbon Dials with Integrated Lume

Germany is the home of many prominent timepiece manufacturers. The most notable city known for watchmaking is Glashütte; however, another city, Pforzheim,, located roughly 560 kilometers away, has its own proud watchmaking history. Brands calling Pforzheim home include Circula, Laco, Limes, Stowa, and others, along with the famous case maker Ickler, whose work supplies numerous watch brands worldwide. Heinrich is a watch brand located in Stuttgart, less than an hour from Pforzheim. This proximity allows brand founder Wolfgang Heinrich to collaborate with skilled watchmakers to develop new sport and dive watches that take inspiration from the 1970s while incorporating a unique twist. Twist barely describes their latest creation, the Taucher Infused Forged Carbon V2. If that sounds like a mouthful, it is, but it is also an eyeful. These watches feature dials and bezel inserts made from colored forged carbon combined with SuperLuminova BGW9. We are not only referring to the indices, minute track, and bezel markings being lumed; instead, we mean that the dial and bezel material itself is integrated with lume. The fusion of materials in each watch is unique, ensuring no two are alike.  The 41mm stainless steel case measures 13.6mm to the top of the boxed sapphire crystal, and due to the very short lugs, it has a compact length of 47.8mm from lug tip to lug tip. This watch should fit nearly everyone comfortably. Although it has a 1970s throwback style, this case is 200 meters ...

The Strangest Seiko Dive Watches in Years Worn & Wound
Seiko Dive Watches Oct 24, 2024

The Strangest Seiko Dive Watches in Years

There was a time not too long ago when the new watches that Seiko debuted this week would have broken the internet. The new SPB481, SPB483 and SPB485 are, plain and simple, some of the strangest releases we’ve seen from Seiko in quite some time. It used to be that even a middling release from the brand, particularly if it was in the sports watch category, would generate days worth of discussion and hype on Instagram, forums, and group chats where watches are discussed. But it’s been about three days since these were made public and not only are they not dominating the enthusiast conversation, they’ve been met with what I can only describe as a collective shrug.  You can see in these images why these watches are noteworthy. What we have here are a trio of Seiko divers in the Prospex collection with octagonal bezels in what appears to be an entirely new case design and a radical new bezel profile. The rounded octagonal bezel is matched to a 41.3mm case that comes in at 12.8mm tall and has lines that accentuate flowing curves at every angle. It feels very different for Seiko and kind of makes you see their core designs in a new way, most of which feature much harsher angles and severe geometry that these watches completely lack.  Three variants make up the new range. The SPB481 has a beige dial matched to a glossy black bezel insert, the SPB483 is a blue on blue design, and then there’s the SPB485, which to my eye is the most striking of the group, featuring a brown...

Fratello On Air: Back From New York - An Empire State Of Mind Fratello
Oct 22, 2024

Fratello On Air: Back From New York - An Empire State Of Mind

We’re back with another episode of Fratello On Air. Balazs has just stepped off a plane from New York and is ready to record. In this episode, we kick off with a healthy dose of banter, touch on some news, and review the two watch shows that just concluded. Watch content starts after roughly 25 […] Visit Fratello On Air: Back From New York - An Empire State Of Mind to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Fleux FLX003 Dive Watch Fratello
Oct 20, 2024

Hands-On With The New Fleux FLX003 Dive Watch

Looking at many of the sensational, avant-garde, or astoundingly intricate horological creations today, it sometimes seems that there is less interest in timeless, classic watches. I’m not talking about watches that cost the same as a house but, rather, simple, straightforward watches for the everyday person and collector. I suspect, though, that there are people […] Visit Hands-On With The New Fleux FLX003 Dive Watch to read the full article.

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10 Chronograph SJX Watches
Breguet Oct 17, 2024

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10 Chronograph

Less than two months have elapsed since Albishorn made its debut, but the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet is back with the Type 10, an “imaginary vintage” prequel to the Type 20 pilot’s watch made famous by Breguet. Available with black or green textured dials, the Type 10 features a proprietary manually wound monopusher chronograph movement with an unusual layout that differentiates it from other Type 20-inspired watches. Though not a limited edition, the Type 10 will be produced in small batches of just 25 watches in each livery. Initial thoughts Conceptually, I like the idea of “imaginary vintage” – the brand’s tagline – because it liberates the design from the constraints of the past and avoids coming off as a copy or homage. While I don’t like every detail of the Type 10, there’s a lot to be excited about, especially as a preview of what might be coming next from the fledgling brand. The Type 10 is powered by the proprietary ALB02 M, a manually wound chronograph movement that, like the Maxigraph, shares some of the architecture of the ubiquitous Valjoux 7750. But to call this a cal. 7750 would be to miss the numerous refinements implemented by Dr Chaulmontet that result in a slimmer movement with, reportedly, a more pleasant pusher action. The Type 10 retains many of the best features of the Maxigraph, including its case. Interestingly, the case is not quite identical; the Type 10’s case is slightly thinner on account of its manually wound ...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve WatchAdvice
Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Oct 16, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve

From the Arctic to the Everyday: The New Terra Nova Evolution What We Love: The new look for the Terra Nova is suited for everyday wear. The blue gradient dial is stunning in person. Polished finishing on the case and bezel gives the watch a luxury look. What We Don’t: The constant seconds counter is oversized for dial. Movement and power reserve can be better to suit modern standards. Minute track can be slimmed down so dial appears less busy. Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.0/10 Build Quality: 8.0/10 During Watches and Wonders earlier this year, Bremont released numerous timepieces for its Terra Nova collection, with various colour schemes and strap options. This Terra Nova collection can be seen as the brand’s redirection, as in early 2023, the company announced a change of leadership with Davide Cerrato taking over the reins. But let’s take a step back and look at what Bremont was as a watch brand before this new, modern direction took over. As a watchmaker, Bremont has a relatively short history compared to some of the other luxury watch manufacturers; however, in this short span of time, they have already created some memorable timepieces. The story in which the brand was found is also quite the tale! Bremont Founders Nick and Giles English. Image Reference: Bremont.com Bremont was founded in 2002 by British brothers Nick and Giles English. The brothers were drawn to watchmaking and to ultimately created a watch brand t...

Introducing - The More Compact 39mm Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Monochrome
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Alpina Oct 7, 2024

Introducing - The More Compact 39mm Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic

Alpina specialises in sports watches, and its Alpiner Extreme models in heavy-duty 41mm stainless steel cases are designed to withstand the toughest conditions. Revamped in 2022, the Alpiner Extreme started its new lease of life with a regulator dial and expanded to include regular time-and-date models and a chronograph. However, less than a month ago, […]

Omega Introduces the Second First Omega in Space Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces Oct 3, 2024

Omega Introduces the Second First Omega in Space

Any day that a new Speedmaster is introduced made out of a material other than Bioceramic is a good day. That’s one of the indisputable laws of watch media, and we’re seeing it play out right before our eyes with the release of the new First Omega in Space Speedmaster. This is, of course, the second First Omega in Space, following the discontinued first First Omega in Space, a tribute to the…first Omega in space, which happened to be a reference CK2998 Speedy on the wrist of astronaut Wally Schirra. That original FOiS release was a fan favorite Speedmaster for the entirety of its production run, which ended about four years ago.  The Speedmaster has developed a reputation with watch collectors as a classic that hasn’t changed a whole lot over the course of several decades of small iterations. While that’s certainly true when you look at the slow progression of the Speedy over the course of many years, the power of the FOiS was always in how it showed the clear contrasts between very early Speedmasters and the most modern examples in the catalog. Because of course there are changes from the Speedys of the 60s compared to those of today, and they really come through when you can view them side by side. The FOiS, as a vintage reissue, really made the most of this, offering a very clear alternative to collectors who might have a preference for vintage aesthetics but not want to actually own a vintage example of the watch.  The new First Omega in Space is very much ...

Introducing - The new Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche, a.k.a the Sensu NOS Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo was defined as his Oct 2, 2024

Introducing - The new Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche, a.k.a the Sensu NOS

The brainchild of Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka (also behind the return of Takano), Kurono Tokyo was defined as his vision of a more accessible take on his design language, with watches merging traditional Japanese cues and classic vintage flair. Recent introductions of the brand focused on compact, retro-inspired watches with a bit less of […]