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Watches & Wonders 2020: The IWC Portugieser Collection
IWC adds a great new clean execution of the perpetual calendar, a new Moon & Tide Yacht Club for the 2020 Portugieser Collection
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IWC adds a great new clean execution of the perpetual calendar, a new Moon & Tide Yacht Club for the 2020 Portugieser Collection
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Vacheron Constantin are a member of the horological holy trinity for very good reason. When it comes to technical innovation and craftsmanship, they are close to peerless in their capacity to not only create some of the most complex and interesting movements ever, but execute the design in an extremely well-thought-out wristwatch. They won the … ContinuedThe post 7 highlights from the Vacheron Constantin 2020 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Characterised by a wide, sober dial with Arabic numerals and small seconds at six o’clock, the quintessential IWC Portugieser wristwatch has almost always been an extra-large, hand-wound timepiece, starting with the original ref. 325 of 1939. But for Watches & Wonders 2020, IWC has introduced a smaller take on the classic with the Portugieser Automatic 40. Available in four references, three in steel and one in pink gold, the new Portugieser Automatic is 40.4 mm wide and 12.4 mm high, making it quite a bit smaller and slimmer than the popular Portugieser 7-days ref. 5007. Notably, the latest Portugieser isn’t the first compact, self-winding variant of the model. In fact, it harks back to the little-known and uncommon Portuguese ref. 3531 of 1998 that was 35 mm and automatic. But in terms of design, the Portugieser Automatic 40 looks very much like a contemporary model. In fact, with the railway minute track and small seconds at six, it’s almost a dead-ringer for the Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days ref. 5102. Inside is the relatively new cal. 82200, which first made an appearance in the Da Vinci Automatic Edition “150 Years” in 2018. Offering a 60-hour power reserve, the movement is equipped with the latest-generation Pellaton winding system, which replaces the push-pull winding pawls that are found in the entry-level automatic cal. 32000. In addition, the automatic wheel, pawls and cam are made of wear-resistant ceramic. Key facts and price IWC Portugiese...
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Vacheron Constantin’s hand-wound chronographs are, for the most part, powered by either the Lemania-based cal. 1142 or the mono-pusher cal. 3300 that was developed in-house. Freshly unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2020, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph belongs in the latter camp. Notably, the new tourbillon-chronograph is powered by the same movement that was last seen in 2015 inside the Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph made to mark the 260th anniversary of the brand. The in-house movement combines a mono-pusher chronograph with the brand’s signature Maltese-cross tourbillon and was absent from the line-up for several years, but now it returns in fine form. While the Harmony was a cushion shape, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph is conventionally round in form. Entirely polished, the case is in pink gold and measures 42.5 mm across and 11.7 mm high, making it large but fairly slim. The silver dial with a tachymeter scale is characterised by a rather unusual, asymmetric layout, with the tourbillon at 12 o’clock, 45-minute chronograph counter just below, and a small power reserve indicator at six. The impressive cal. 3200 Inside is the cal. 3200, which is identical to movement inside the Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph, with one difference – this lacks the gilded and engraved tourbillon bridge that was unique to the 260th anniversary watches. Instead the tourbillon here is secured on the back by a simpler brass bridge decorated with Cotes de Geneve...
Hodinkee
All the charm of a classic, now with a hand-wound movement.
SJX Watches
Hot on the heels of the Santos-Dumont XL hand-wind, Cartier has dropped four limited edition variants of the same at Watches & Wonders 2020, each dedicated to one of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s most significant aircraft. Within just a decade, the pioneering Franco-Brazilian aviator designed and piloted diverse methods of conquering the skies, from balloons and dirigibles to heavier-than-air aircraft. The four flying machines commemorated by the new limited edition Santos-Dumont watches each represent a different milestone in his career, starting with his first balloon, the Brésil of 1898, to his greatest feat, the La Demoiselle plane of 1908. Increasing in edition size as the price decreases with the preciousness of the case, all four editions are mechanical, powered by the ultra-thin 430 MC found in the Santos-Dumont XL, which is actually a Piaget 430P. Though they share the same movement, the editions are not all the same size. The first three are in the large Santos-Dumont case, with dimensions of 43.5 mm by 31.4 mm, perfectly appropriate for a modern-day dress watch, offering just the right balance between elegance and presence. The last and most expensive edition, on the other hand, is platinum and XL size, meaning it is 46.6 mm by 33.9 mm. Santos-Dumont XL in platinum (extreme left), and the trio of large-size editions Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil” Limited to 100 pieces, “Le Bresil” is named after Santos-Dumont’s first flying machine, a hot-air balloon not...
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Make no mistake, the Cartier 2020 collection is a cracker. Last year we were offered a smaller collection of watches that focused on the Santos and Tonneau shapes, but this year we get most of that and much, much more. The latest releases from Cartier are broken down into five distinct collections, but there’s also … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about the Cartier 2020 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Oris is introducing a new collaboration with Japanese cult denim label Momotaro, with the watch being launched today via webcast and now available on Oris’s eShop as well as Revolution’s e-shop.
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We spoke to Australian watchmaker Reuben Schoots, who is making a Daniels pocket watch by hand. His motivation comes from a surprising place.The post INTERVIEW: Australian watchmaker Reuben Schoots is the first of his kind appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The more watches you see, the less likely it becomes that you see something you’ve never seen before. The Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock, however, is absolutely unlike anything I’ve seen before. While the case shape and dial layout has been seen, in different references within the Laureato collection, the eye-catching element of this watch is the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The precious mineral Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The second of a two part story detailing Michael Jordan's watch collection, including Rolex, Richard Mille, Urwerk and IWC Big Pilot models.The post The watches of Michael Jordan, part 2, including IWC, Richard Mille, Urwerk and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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This year, Seiko is celebrating 55 years since their first-ever dive watch, which was released in 1965. Since then, the dive watch has become a core part of Seiko’s offering, with innumerable watches released over the years, many of which have developed cult followings. To mark this occasion, Seiko have released a trio of limited … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: All three limited edition watches from the new Seiko 55th Anniversary dive watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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When it rains it drips. And in April 2020, at a time when we need it most – our kingdom for some new watches to write about! – it drips technicolour divers, classic chronos and two absolute blue beauties. Seriously. Like blue dialled watches? Prepare yourself. In a case of simply weird timing, just a … ContinuedThe post Our 4 picks from the new IWC, Breitling, Bell & Ross and Montblanc 2020 releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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When the Monta Oceanking arrived one day, I didn’t quite know what to make of it. Luckily, I was able to secure a phone interview with Justin Kraudel, the president of Monta. Mr Kraudel is as enthusiastic about watches as any of us (perhaps more so) and was eager to school me on Monta in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Monta Oceanking, a watch price-positioned between Seiko and Tudor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Breitling introduces the Navitimer in its smallest package ever, dedicated to women who want the perfect mix of style and tradition.
Revolution
At the virtual Breitling Summit earlier today, CEO Georges Kern introduced a transformed Chronomat collection that’s styled as an all-round sports timepiece.
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My position on wearing a watch while playing sports is already well established – I think it is a very bad idea. However, recent footage of UFC legend Conor McGregor hitting the reflex bag with a series of “bare knuckle pin pointers” has once again stirred up quite the storm in watch land. Why? Well, “The Notorious” … ContinuedThe post Tools of the trade: The sports stars that actually wear their mega-luxury watches when they play appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We take a look at the Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II, a watch created in collaboration with tattoo artist Maxime Buchi, now with a blue dial.
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Michael Jordan is an NBA legend who many consider to be the greatest player of all time, the GOAT, or, if on social media, simply the goat emoji. Jordan won a total of six NBA championships with the Chicago Bulls and is nicknamed “Air Jordan” and “His Airness” for his ability to hang in the … ContinuedThe post The watches of Michael Jordan, including Ulysse Nardin, Panerai, Rolex and Franck Muller appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Swatch Sistem51 collection centres its value proposition around two things the rest of the Swiss watch industry finds very much at odds - technical innovation and affordability. With the new Swatch Sistem51 Petite Seconde, we get both of those things in a classically dressed-up package, with the centre seconds of previous models moved to a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Swatch Sistem51 receives an elegance upgrade with the Petite Seconde appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Cartier Pasha is a watch surrounded by curiosity, so let's find out what made Buffy decide to pick up one of these interesting watches.The post What Sealed The Deal – Buffy’s Cartier Pasha, a weird, wonderful and waterproof oddity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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You might have heard of Doxa watches, but do you know their history? We take a look at this Swiss dive watch brand and their key models.The post A short history of DOXA, the brand that was almost lost to history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Does the name James Robinson look familiar? That might be because James is part of the team here at Time+Tide Watches and he writes quite prodigiously about watches. You might have read his story on Zenith’s new Land Rover collab today, or countless other times before. Well, we thought it was time we put a … ContinuedThe post James’ Longines HydroConquest hit the deck when he fell off his bike, but it’s still ticking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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We’ve become accustomed to the sight of a vintage reissue in the watch world. Some are good, some are just plain opportunistic and unimaginative, and some miss the mark completely. And the reason many miss the mark is an awkward straddling of the fence between the past and the present. The question boils down to … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko SPB149J is a 2020 reimagining of the brand’s first-ever dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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TAG Heuer has beefed up its popular Aquaracer GMT lineup with their latest release – the TAG Heuer Aquaracer GMT Ref. WAY201T.BA0927. And is it just us or is that ‘WAY’ in the title sent to trigger a subtle reference to you know who? If that’s the intention, there are many interesting details this Aquaracer brings … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer GMT with black and blue bezel. Shut the garage door, Batman! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Editor’s note: This is part 2 of a long read from the second edition of NOW Magazine, which you can pick up here. If you missed Part 1, you can find it right here. The story so far is a space race between America, Switzerland and Japan as they sought to manufacture battery powered quartz watches at scale. … ContinuedThe post Quartz, the killer – A history of quartz watches, Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Last week’s Celebrity Watch Death Match pushed it to the limit, as John Mayer and Ed Sheeran, according to you guys, ended in a white-knuckle draw. I called it 3-1 for Mayer, but you begged to differ. We had ourselves a 2-2 deadlock. So we were forced to clarify the rules. What happens when it’s a hung … ContinuedThe post Celebrity Watch Death Match – John Mayer Vs. Ed Sheeran … the rematch! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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When it comes to celebrity endorsements, Patrick Swayze’s sixth cousin once removed John Cameron Swayze is simply not modern watch brand ambassador material. A news anchor and game show host during the ’40s and ’50s, Chris Hemsworth he wasn’t. The 1960s, however, was the perfect era for Swayze to take to timepiece advertisements. Whether being … ContinuedThe post The pointy end of the Timex revival, a short history of the breakout Marlin collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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We’ve tallied up the results from last week’s CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: John Mayer Vs. Ed Sheeran … there’s been an upset, and it’s a big one. I declared the bout, which was mostly a Patek vs Patek punch-up, a win for the longer in the tooth collector that is John Mayer. I marked him … ContinuedThe post CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: John Mayer Vs. Ed Sheeran – the results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Bold colours and textures. That’s how you could quickly sum up the Sixties collection that has been the vintage-inspired darling of the Glashütte Original lineup ever since they hit the scene. This year, the German-based manufacture has turned the volume down, opting for a much cooler and more restrained expression of the collection with glacier … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The glacial glory of the Glashütte Original Sixties blue Annual Edition for 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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