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Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Oct 30, 2021

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001

Having set the record for the most expensive watch ever when the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A sold for CHF31 million at Only Watch 2019, Patek Philippe has created something entirely different for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction. The Geneva watchmaker’s entry for Only Watch 2021 is the Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27001M-001, a tabletop timepiece inspired by a pair of historical clocks made in the 1920s for prominent American collectors. The front of the clock opens to reveal the pushers for adjustment as well as winding and setting sockets Initial thoughts While Patek Philippe’s past creations for Only Watch were unique variants of existing models, the ref. 27001M desk clock is a unique model. It also claims several “firsts”. The ref. 27001M is the only example of this reference ever created to date – and the first timepiece to be equipped with this movement – and also the first clock Patek Philippe has contributed to Only Watch. This makes the ref. 27001M truly unique against all of Patek Philippe’s diverse repertoire. The inscription on the inside of the lid Very much classical luxury in style, the ref. 27001M is an appealing timepiece. A couple of details could have been done better or removed altogether, like “The Only One” on the lower edge, but it is still a good looking object. At the same time, it is mechanically interesting, since the movement is not only a 31-day calibre but also being used for the first time by Patek Philippe. Thoug...

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In-Depth: The Longines Observatory Chronometer Cal. 360 SJX Watches
Longines Observatory Chronometer Cal 360 Oct 30, 2021

In-Depth: The Longines Observatory Chronometer Cal. 360

In the field of precision timekeeping, one inevitably encounters Longines with its multi-facetted and remarkably rich history. The unwavering persistence of the firm’s celebrated régleurs and its long lineage of in-house chronometer calibres fostered Longines’ reputation for excellence in precision timekeeping, far beyond the borders of Switzerland. The Saint Imier-based manufacturer ventured into precision chronometry as early as 1888, amidst the dawn of observatory chronometer competitions in Switzerland, when its cal. 21.59/60-based chronometer obtained an observatory-issued Bulletin de Marche, or rate certificate. And after almost a century of steadfast participation in prestigious chronometry trials, the last Longines timepiece subject to observatory-governed testing, a cal. 262 based chronograph (movement no. 14’701’394), received its certificate in 1972. The Neuchâtel observatory announced its first chronometer contest on December 5, 1865. Eight decades later this Longines advertisement portrayed the observatory chronometer contests as an uphill battle, referencing the record of N=5.00 obtained by the wristwatch-sized cal. 15.68Z in 1945 at Neuchâtel. Towards the end of the 1950s, a pure-bred competition calibre named the cal. 360 became Longines’ final masterpiece in the hard-fought race for glory in precision. A proven workhorse that won countless prizes and accolades at both the Neuchâtel and Geneva observatory competitions, the cal. 360 was a pu...

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MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C Time+Tide
Oct 25, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C

How do you make enough noise in the large microbrand watch scene to be noticed? Do you ride a wave, presenting a design collectors have seen countless times? Do you offer dirt-cheap pricing that leaves many of us wondering how long you’ll even be here? Or do you make something so “unique”, no one would … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Swatch Unveils the Halloween Capsule Collection SJX Watches
Swatch Oct 25, 2021

Swatch Unveils the Halloween Capsule Collection

Thematic capsule collections are a Swatch favourite, with recent launches including watches dedicated to the latest James Bond film and NASA. With hyper-efficient, automated manufacturing and simply constructed watches, Swatch is able to keep current with its thematic collections. And now with Halloween around the corner, Swatch has just taken the covers off the line up dedicated to the ghoulish celebration – the Halloween Capsule Collection, made up of a pair of watches that are glow-in-the-dark and appear entirely different from day to night. Your Time is Coming (left), and Run But You Can’t Hide Initial thoughts Glow-in-the-dark watches are cool because they light up in the dark. Swatch takes the concept and goes big with the Halloween pair – the watches are a bold 47 mm in diameter and matched with straps that are entirely “lumed”. The Halloween pair also stand out for the contrast between their day and night looks, a characteristic that makes them all the more striking and attractive. During the day, the dials are surprisingly low-key, with the faces barely visible. The faces on the dials only reveal themselves at night And both watches are clearly all about design. The dials are both smartly streamlined, with as few time-telling elements as possible – there are neither hours markers nor a date, or even a seconds hand Even the hands are thin and skeletonised. The hands do the job, but are not quite as inventive as the floating, “ghost” hands found i...

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A

A model often overshadowed by “hot” watches or more complicated ones, the ref. 5905 combines a pair of useful complications into an everyday dress watch, but it was previously available only in a conservative, luxe guise of precious metal case and classical dial colours. But now Patek Philippe is changing up the feel of the model with the Annual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5905/1A. Now cased in steel and matched with a three-link bracelet inspired by the Aquanaut, the ref. 5905/1A retains the sectored dial found on earlier versions of the model, but now in olive green – the same shade found on the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s opening act for the year was the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial (and with the option of a diamond-set bezel), an immediate hit that has become one of the most sought-after watches of 2021. The Nautilus was already hot, as all sports watches with integrated bracelets are, but bestowing the most fashionable colour of the year on the “final edition” of the Nautilus ref. 5711 escalated its desirability to the stratosphere. That bodes well for the ref. 5905/1A. The ref. 5905/1A will be instantly attractive since it caters to current tastes. Its inevitable desirability will overshadow its intrinsic qualities (and also the accessible price), which is a bit of a shame. While intriguing it is not, the ref. 5905/1A is a good-looking watch, and one executed in a practical material while offering usef...

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Breguet Tradition Reference 7035: Scintillating With Snow-Set Diamonds   Quill & Pad
Breguet Tradition Reference 7035 Scintillating Oct 9, 2021

Breguet Tradition Reference 7035: Scintillating With Snow-Set Diamonds  

When Breguet introduced the Tradition collection in 2005, it took inspiration from Abraham-Louis Breguet’s souscription pocket watches made back when the famed watchmaker himself was still at the helm. The new Reference 7035 is very much a precious version of Breguet's modern La Tradition with diamonds added to the mix. And they are beautifully snow set!

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Business News: Watchbox Forecasts 2021 Revenue to Cross US$300m SJX Watches
De Bethune Oct 6, 2021

Business News: Watchbox Forecasts 2021 Revenue to Cross US$300m

Having been founded in 2017 as a spinoff from authorised retailer Govberg Jewelers, Watchbox has swiftly grown into one of the biggest sellers of pre-owned watches globally. Having started life with a US$100m capital infusion from a Singapore-based private equity outfit, the company has just announced 2021 sales will cross US$300m, thanks to growth projected to top 40%. For comparison, that is approximately equivalent to the annual watch sales of the major auction houses, namely Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s. The announcement comes just weeks after Watchbox took a majority stake in De Bethune, a respected independent watchmaker that nonetheless struggling for most of its existence, but is now on a sounder financial footing. At the same time, the financial resources available to Watchbox indicate that its investment in De Bethune might be the first of several such acquisitions. At the same time, the Philadephia-based company announced an expansion of its store network, which currently includes outposts in Dubai (pictured above), Hong Kong, and Singapore. It plans eight new stores in 2022, with five located in the United States, followed by Zurich, Riyadh, and Tokyo.  

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Auction Watch: Enamelled Automaton Masterpieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned Oct 5, 2021

Auction Watch: Enamelled Automaton Masterpieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong Sale is primarily focused on wristwatches, encompassing several unique Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned by Eric Clapton and a dozen examples of early F.P. Journe. But two of the most valuables lots in the auction – and with estimates well into seven-figure US dollar sums – are a pair of museum-quality automata. Made for the Chinese market more than two centuries ago, this pair of objects are tremendously rare and exquisitely decorated in enamel and pearls. Two generations ago, such automata as well as pocket watches were the most respected genre in watch collecting. They were sought after by eminent collectors like the former chairman of HSBC and the German billionaire who was once the fifth-richest man in the world, which is why the record-setting lots in watch auctions of that era were inevitably pocket watches or objects, like the million-dollar Cremsdorff. Almost 400-years old, this pocket watch made by Jehan Cremsdorff sold for £2.175m, or about US$2.734m, including fees, at Sotheby’s in 2019 With the rise of wristwatches as the preeminent collecting category, demand for automata and pocket watches have declined sharply. Now the most expensive timepiece ever sold is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A mega-complication that sold for over US$33 million in 2019. But elaborately enamelled pocket watches are arguably the closest thing to fine art in horology, because of the intrinsic nature of the artisanal dec...

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T3 Special Watches Introduces the Dague SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 96 while Oct 4, 2021

T3 Special Watches Introduces the Dague

Founded by a pair of Italian watch collectors, one of whom is vintage-watch dealer Andrea Marzari, T3 Special Watches is a young and unusual brand. T3 originated in the pair’s other hobby – both are motorcycle enthusiasts. They attempted to create a watch suited for long rides, but that ultimately proved fruitless. Instead, the two pivoted and conceived a vintage-inspired watch with an original design, and powered by a refinished Longines pocket watch movement from the early 2oth century, the Dague. The motivation behind the watch was simple – they wanted a watch that appealed to their taste in both design and mechanics, while being stylish and robust enough for everyday wear. After a year of riding their motorcycles with the prototypes, the duo debuted the first-generation Dague in 2018. Now the model has been refreshed with lacquer dials in eight vibrant colours ranging from turquoise to orange. Think of it as “Stella” dial meets a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, while powered by a vintage pocket watch movement. In lightweight titanium Initial thoughts The Dague is unusual for its mix of modern and vintage features. And it is not just vintage inspired – the movements are bona fide antiques, being based on Longines calibres from the 1920s and 1930s that were originally made for pocket watches. The use of vintage movements sets T3 apart from most micro-brands that rely on modern movements from makers such as ETA. That said, the use of refurbished vintage...

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The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex? Time+Tide
Rolex ? Here’s Oct 1, 2021

The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex?

Here’s a challenge: check your Instagram feed and see if you can go 24 hours without seeing a Rolex. Even though the brand itself post at a rate of once every two to three days, you’ll still find yourself inundated with pictures of dozens of references. Mind you, there is nothing wrong with this. Yet, … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Buy It Now: 4 watches to snatch up from eBay and their “What’s Trending” September sale ending today Time+Tide
Sep 30, 2021

Buy It Now: 4 watches to snatch up from eBay and their “What’s Trending” September sale ending today

Whether due to the pandemic, or the nuances of sourcing pieces at retail, many watch buyers look to buy from a distance online in favor of making a deal in the metal. It is also the medium where informed buyers can find the best deals, whether pre-owned, or even new, at a discount. Seasoned collectors … ContinuedThe post Buy It Now: 4 watches to snatch up from eBay and their “What’s Trending” September sale ending today appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Chopard Introduces the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Sep 28, 2021

Chopard Introduces the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

First introduced in 2012 in the L.U.C 8HF, Chopard’s proprietary escapement was notable for being ultra-high frequency, running at twice the speed of a conventional escapement, and also one of the first such escapements to make it to serial production. But whatever the merits, the brand’s past high-frequency watches were a mixed bag in terms of design, and for that reason the brand’s technical accomplishment never gained the recognition it deserved. But now the 8 Hz escapement finally arrives in an appealing package, the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF. Initial thoughts The new Alpine Eagle is an unusual combination of a luxury-sports watch and an interesting movement with a novel escapement that runs at twice the normal speed. Like the standard version of the Alpine Eagle, the Cadence 8HF is finished to an impressively high level on the case and bracelet. That’s especially more impressive given that it’s entirely titanium, instead of steel. The design does come in for some minor criticism – the polished centre links of the bracelet are too narrow – but it is still good looking. And the Cadence 8HF has a cleaned up dial, which adds to the appeal. While impressive technically, the movement isn’t too much to look at, since the finishing is workmanlike and monochromatic. That said, the movement’s aesthetics suit the style (and price) of the watch perfectly. The Cadence 8HF is almost 50% more expensive than the regular model in steel – but it’s worth the stretc...

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Nomos Introduces the Club 36 Blue for Ace Jewelers SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Sep 24, 2021

Nomos Introduces the Club 36 Blue for Ace Jewelers

A family-owned watch retailer with a prominent online presence, Ace Jewelers has made its an annual affair to work with Nomos on a limited edition. Past editions include last year’s #NomiesforLife and the Zurich world time from the preceding year. The latest is the Ace x NOMOS Club 36 Limited Edition, conceived to mark the five-year relationship between the German brand and Amsterdam-based retailer. Initial thoughts The appeal of Nomos; watches lie in their cheerfully simple aesthetics and affordability. Even though the Club 36 Blue is a limited edition for a retailer, it is quintessentially Nomos in style with its blue and orange dial. Being the entry-level Nomos watch, the standard Club 36 is offered in a narrow number of dial colours, which is one of the main attractions of the new edition. And because it is based on the brand’s entry-level model, the Club 36 Blue is unusually affordable. The version with a solid back costs just US$1,000 or so. An uncommon edition According to Ace, its latest limited edition is only the third limited edition based on the Club 36 over the past decade. The upside of using this specific model as the base is affordability, since the Club 36 is the entry-level Nomos. The tweaks that set the Ace edition apart lie in the dial, which has a blue and orange livery that’s based on Ace Jeweler’s corporate colours. Dial aside, the watch is identical to the standard model. The case is polished steel, 36 mm in diameter, and offered with eit...

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VIDEO: Suspected thief swipes Rolex from the wrist of a sleeping man Time+Tide
Rolex from Sep 19, 2021

VIDEO: Suspected thief swipes Rolex from the wrist of a sleeping man

It adds a whole new meaning to “you snooze, you lose”. A suspected thief pinched a Rolex right off of the wrist of a man while he took a nap in the Residence Inn by Marriot Convention Center lobby in Washington DC. Unfortunately for him for the whole thing was caught on camera The victim … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Suspected thief swipes Rolex from the wrist of a sleeping man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 14, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium

First introduced as a handful of limited editions (including for Japanese retailer Yoshida), the minute repeating, luxury-sports watch has finally become a permanent addition to the Audemars Piguet catalogue with the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in Titanium. Despite its low-key looks, a tone-on-tone palette of a smoked, grey dial and brushed titanium case, the Royal Oak repeater  is loud – literally – thanks to the patented Supersonnerie system within, which produces chimes that are clearer and louder than those of a traditional striking wristwatch. Initial thoughts The superb acoustics are unquestionably the focal point of the latest from Audemars Piguet (AP) – it is undeniably a successful striking complication thanks to the clever case (we explained the Supersonnerie in an earlier story). But the design of the Royal Oak repeater is arguably near perfect and worth a leading mention. At a glance the repeater looks very much like a typical Royal Oak, but the dial layout gives it perhaps the most classical face amongst its siblings. It has no date, and instead a small seconds at six to replace the central seconds found on most Royal Oak models. The seconds-at-six layout is typical of a dress watch, and it isn’t special per se, but it is unique for a Royal Oak, which was after all designed as a sports watch. By way of its thinness (at least in its original ref. 5402 “Jumbo” guise), the Royal Oak has always retained an elegant air that resonates wit...

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HANDS ON – The Farer Segrave Monopusher Chronograph delivers a big eye with a colourful twist Time+Tide
Farer Segrave Monopusher Chronograph delivers Sep 13, 2021

HANDS ON – The Farer Segrave Monopusher Chronograph delivers a big eye with a colourful twist

Pride is not an emotion I often overplay when it comes to my Britishness, but last week while dipping in and out of appointments around Switzerland’s prettiest city for Geneva Watch Days I was brimming with the stuff – emanating predominately from my left wrist. You’ll be hard pressed to find a place where the … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON – The Farer Segrave Monopusher Chronograph delivers a big eye with a colourful twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Auction: The William Wood 9/11 Time For Heroes will help those who risk life and limb in the line of duty Time+Tide
Sep 7, 2021

Auction: The William Wood 9/11 Time For Heroes will help those who risk life and limb in the line of duty

Certain days in your life are impossible to forget. Some bring joy and happiness to your heart, like the day you get married or the birth of your first child. Other days, well, other days bring an immense amount of sadness. September 11th is that day for me and millions of other New Yorkers. On … ContinuedThe post Auction: The William Wood 9/11 Time For Heroes will help those who risk life and limb in the line of duty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Rattrapante SJX Watches
Czapek Introduces Sep 1, 2021

Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Rattrapante

Czapek & Cie unveiled the Antarctique a year ago, its first foray into the popular category of luxury-sports watches. While the Antarctique had many of the elements synonymous with a luxury-sports watch, namely a steel case, blue dial, and integrated bracelet, it lacked what is arguably the signature element of Czapek’s design DNA – a pair of sub-dials at five and seven. Just unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, the followup to the original model combines a light touch of high horology with styling more faithful to the brand’s origins – the Antarctique Rattrapante, which is also the brand’s first split-seconds chronograph. Initial thoughts At a glance, the Antarctique Rattrapante is a noble effort in fusing the brand’s signature look with a modern, open-worked dial. Aesthetically, the design works well. The concept of having the entire split-seconds chronograph module visible on the dial creates an intricate view of the mechanics that would normally be hidden. And the mechanics are interesting, as the look is the result of substantial contortions to lower the sub-dials while ensuring they do not run into the gear train for the central hands. Notably, the repositioning was done with extra wheels – the chronograph mechanism actually has the registers in their traditional three and nine positions. At its core however, the chronograph remains a traditional, mono-pusher mechanism, albeit one that’s modular. The split-seconds mechanism does lack a key feature found ...

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Business News: Watchbox Takes Majority Stake in De Bethune [Updated] SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin who’s now Aug 31, 2021

Business News: Watchbox Takes Majority Stake in De Bethune [Updated]

Watchbox, one of the world’s largest retailers of pre-owned watches, has just announced that it’s taken a majority stake in De Bethune, an independent watchmaker that’s recently enjoying a revival in its fortunes. The deal closed on August 31, according to Patrik Hoffmann, the former chief executive of Ulysse Nardin who’s now the head of Watchbox Switzerland. According to Mr Hoffmann, De Bethune now has just four shareholders, down from a dozen or so previously, with Watchbox holding the largest stake. While Watchbox now has board representation, its investment is largely passive says Mr Hoffmann. Both of De Bethune’s key men will remain in their equity stakes as well as management roles: Pierre Jacques as chief executive and cofounder Denis Flageollet as its technical and watchmaking head. And Mr Hoffmann adds will be no change in terms of De Bethune’s products. “Denis sees the brand DNA so clearly,” continues Mr Hoffmann, “So it would be a big mistake to change that… [since] few brands have the same clearly-defined DNA.” The road from 2002 As the saying goes, history doesn’t repeat itself, but it rhymes. De Bethune was originally cofounded in 2002 by a vintage watch dealer active in the late 20th century, Davide Zanetta, a truly original character who was legendary in his time. Mr Zanetta sold his majority share of the brand in 2017 after many years of losses. One of the investors who bought into the brand in 2017 was Steven Rostovsky, a pre-own...

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The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante brings skeletonized wonder to the integrated bracelet scene Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante brings skeletonized Aug 31, 2021

The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante brings skeletonized wonder to the integrated bracelet scene

I’ll be blunt and admit the Czapek Antarctique became a strong personal favourite in the integrated bracelet game when it smashed onto the scene last year. This time Czapek throws us a curveball with a complex skeletonized version featuring a new, fascinating movement bringing the best of vintage haute horlogerie back to the future of … ContinuedThe post The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante brings skeletonized wonder to the integrated bracelet scene appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Three watches I wish that Omega, TAG Heuer and Tudor made… Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aug 27, 2021

Three watches I wish that Omega, TAG Heuer and Tudor made…

It’s inevitable that you’ll get to a point in your collecting life where you hit a wall. You find a watch you love. Everything about it is perfect. Well, almost everything. Try as hard as you can, there are a handful of things that keep you from taking that last step into ownership. This is … ContinuedThe post Three watches I wish that Omega, TAG Heuer and Tudor made… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Wrist Watching: Rolling Stone Charlie Watts (A Discreet Watch Collector) Knew It Was Only Rock And Roll (But He Liked It) Quill & Pad
Aug 25, 2021

Wrist Watching: Rolling Stone Charlie Watts (A Discreet Watch Collector) Knew It Was Only Rock And Roll (But He Liked It)

Charlie Watts passed away on August 24, 2021, at the age of 80 after having been hospitalized for heart problems. He had been the beat-keeper for the Rolling Stones for half a century. Unlike his bandmates, the famed drummer of the Rolling Stones kept a low profile, and so identifying his watches wasn't easy . . . but we managed to spot one.

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#Kixntix: The TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario with Nikes to make you jump to the next level Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario Aug 25, 2021

#Kixntix: The TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario with Nikes to make you jump to the next level

A smartwatch in collaboration with Nintendo? Shock and joy in equal measure. But in all seriousness, the TAG Heuer Connected is pure sports, and is TAG’ s entry into the rather solemn and performance-focused world of athletic performance. So I was delighted by the unexpected TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario Limited Edition, injecting a … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario with Nikes to make you jump to the next level appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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