Hodinkee
Auctions: Last-Minute Confusion And An Incomplete, Completely Subjective Analysis Of The Geneva Auctions
From 11th-hour controversy at Christie's to continued interest in Cartier and Breguet, it was a wild weekend of watch sales.
Results for Newman's Daytona at Phillips, October 2017
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Hodinkee
Quill & Pad
Livestream 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Follow Watchmaking’s Biggest Night Right Here
The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is scheduled to begin at 6:30 pm Central European Time on Thursday the 10th of November. Follow the big night live on Quill & Pad.
SJX Watches
Obituary: Jörg Bucherer, the King of European Watch Retail
Jörg G. Bucherer, the third generation to run the Bucherer retail chain, passed away on Monday evening at age 87. The news was first reported by Swiss newspapers including Le Temps. His death comes less than three months after agreeing to sell his family business to Rolex in a multi-billion franc move that shocked the entire industry, but secured the future of the company. He led an extraordinary life, being one of the last remaining people to have worked directly with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, and building a reputation as a man about town. Known for his fast cars and beautiful women in his youth, he was always extremely closely guarded when it came to media appearances. Bucherer took over the business in 1977, and had been at the centre of the industry ever since. Having navigated many turbulent periods in matchmaking, he not only kept the Lucerne-based retailer afloat, but steered it to the very top, with the business now counting over 100 points of sale across Europe and America, making it the biggest seller of Rolex watches anywhere. The historic Bucherer store in Lucerne. Image – Bucherer When Bucherer took the reins from his father, the industry was in turmoil in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis. That didn’t stop him as he expanded the company from its Swiss base into new territories such as Austria and Germany in 1980s. He would go on to acquire other retailers as he pursued expansion, including Kurz Group in 1989 and Swiss Lion in 2001. The real b...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer
When you look at Baltic’s lineup, you may have noticed the absence of a field watch. After tackling dive watches, GMTs, and other platforms, all with an eye toward a specific type of vintage elegance, Baltic has released the Hermetique Tourer - their take on the classic go-anywhere, do-anything field watch. Field watches are great, don’t get me wrong, but when so many are built to a specific military specification, they start to get a little bit stale. That’s not the case at all with Baltic’s newest field-ready wrist companion. The Hermétique takes those classic defining elements of a field watch and elevates them with style to fit Baltic’s overall aesthetic. Let’s jump in and take a closer look at this fun, reasonably-priced, and feature-packed entry into a new category of watches from Paris’ own Baltic Watches. $590 Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9039 Dial Green Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Tropic rubber, stainless bracelet Water Resistance 150 meters Dimensions 37 x 46mm Thickness 10.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Integrated, push down Warranty Yes Price $590 Case At first glance, the 37mm case looks surprisingly sleek. In case you missed it, the crown on the right side of the case pushes in to a point where it’s flush with the lines of the case, giving the Hermétique a largely circular appearance. While we tend to praise field and pilot watches for their large, accessible crowns, it’s nic...
Revolution
Amazing Rare Watches in Christie’s Upcoming Auction | In Conversation with Remi Guillemin
Join Eleonor and Remi Guillemin, Head of Watches at Christie’s, about some of the rarest timepieces in the world going under the hammer at the Christie’s Rare Watches Auction happening on 6 November 2023, 3PM CET. This interview spotlights a selection of exceptional timepieces, including the coveted Cartier ‘Dice’ wristwatch meticulously crafted by Cartier London, […]
Revolution
On the Wrist with Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Purple Reign”
Our latest limited edition, the Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Purple Reign,” graces the wrist. When bathed in sunlight, the signature Grain d’orge guilloché dial sparkles with intricate details, highlighting the exquisite Tyrian purple hue. It’s a true embodiment of elegance and subtlety at its finest. Complementing this timepiece is one of the most exquisitely […]
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko 36.5mm 44GS range expands with three new U.S. exclusive references (SBGW309, SBGW311, SBGW313)
Grand Seiko has just launched three new U.S exclusive midsize 44GS references at their GS9 Club USA event.The post The Grand Seiko 36.5mm 44GS range expands with three new U.S. exclusive references (SBGW309, SBGW311, SBGW313) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Chronographs from Seiko and Heuer, Pulsar LED, & More
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bulova A17A Military Watch Vintage military watches are always highly sought after, and this one is a really cool example. The Bulova A17A mil-spec is small but mighty. These were made from about 1956-1962, and were issued as navigation watches for aviators. Nice smaller but chunky steel case with the original bead blasted finish and the military engravings on the back. The black dial is easy to read, and the lume has a nice patina. And you gotta love the oversized crown for the manual wind movement. No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs. View auction here. Pulsar LED I don’t know why so many vintage LED watches are popping out of the woodwork, but I’m loving it. This week we have a sleek looking vintage Pulsar LED, complete with original bracelet, inner and outer boxes and a boat load of paperwork. This is a fantastic time-capsule piece that is in immaculate condition, and is currently working great! Look at that futuro / space age look of the steel case and that wild bracelet. Even the warranty paperwork is filled out, which you rarely see. So cool! View auction here. Heuer Autavia GMT Chronograph Ok, time for a big boy. This is the famous Heuer Autavia GMT ch...
Worn & Wound
Tough and Technical Watches from Citizen: The Promaster Altichron and Promaster Tough
As a watchmaker, Citizen is as diversified as any in regards to the sheer breadth and width of its catalog. Collectors can get lost in the histories of cult classic dive watches while marveling at modern atomic timing tech. If there were two core attributes across Citizen’s diverse offerings, they could be summed up as “tough” and “technical”. Chalk it up to Japanese excellence or decades of innovation – either way you are getting a solid product. The modern lineup of Promaster watches epitomizes the toughness and technical know-how of Citizen. It is considered the “Professional” line of watches, and here are two models to consider adding to your arsenal for your next adventure. As a watchmaker, Citizen is as diversified as any in regards to the sheer breadth and width of its catalog. Collectors can get lost in the histories of cult classic dive watches while marveling at modern atomic timing tech. If there were two core attributes across Citizen’s diverse offerings, they could be summed up as “tough” and “technical”. Chalk it up to Japanese excellence or decades of innovation – either way you are getting a solid product. The modern lineup of Promaster watches epitomizes the toughness and technical know-how of Citizen. It is considered the “Professional” line of watches, and here are two models to consider adding to your arsenal for your next adventure. The post Tough and Technical Watches from Citizen: The Promaster Altichron and Promaster ...
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Opens Le Restaurant in Geneva
In the world of independent watchmaking, François-Paul Journe is perhaps the first amongst equals. But beyond his eponymous brand, Mr Journe has long been something of a gourmand who invested in restaurants in the past. But now his most ambitious culinary project has opened: F.P. Journe Le Restaurant. Located on Geneva’s posh Rue du Rhone, the restaurant is helmed by Dominique Gauthier, formerly the chef at Le Chat-Botté, the Michelin-starred Geneva institution in the lakeside Beau-Rivage hotel. A shared passion Anyone who has been inside an F.P. Journe boutique might have noticed wine bottled especially for F.P. Journe from Chateau Seguin, whose owner is a friend of Mr Journe. Similarly, the new restaurant reflects Mr Journe’s personal relationships and passions. The new restaurant is actually Mr Journe’s third foray into dining, amongst his previous endeavours was a steakhouse. But F.P. Journe Le Restaurant is undoubtedly conceived to be something else entirely. Besides the reputedly CHF1.5 million investment in the location, Mr Journe has recruited one of Geneva’s star chefs. Dominique Gauthier was the head chef at the Le Chat-Botté for some 30 years, clinching a Michelin star along the way. All smiles A historical address This new restaurant is inside a 19th-century building at 49 Rue du Rhône. More notably, the building once housed Bavaria, a renowned German restaurant popular in the early to mid decades of the 20th century. In its prime, the establishment...
Time+Tide
Welcome to In the Metal – a distinctly Marcus take on all things watches
In a new series, Marcus takes a non-WIS look at the watches he's been shooting - including Studio Underd0g, Tudor, and more.The post Welcome to In the Metal – a distinctly Marcus take on all things watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hublot and Samuel Ross join forces once again for the Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A
The A-Cold-Wall* designer and Hublot have mastered collabs at this point, refining their honeycomb-defined efforts further.The post Hublot and Samuel Ross join forces once again for the Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
New To The Windup Watch Shop – Nivada Grenchen
At times the vintage watch world can seem like the Wild West: rife with danger and opportunity at the same time. Many who have gone deep down the rabbit hole may have discovered incredibly interesting watches at good value in mid-century watchmaking stalwart Nivada Grenchen. Established in 1926, the Swiss-based brand made a name for itself by building robust timepieces and was one of the first to mass-produce automatically winding watches. Nivada Grenchen, like many others, struggled through the Quartz Crisis but was relaunched in 2018 with the help of entrepreneurs Guillame Laidet and Remi Chabrat. It has emerged from the gates with a core lineup composed of some of its most beloved watches from the 20th century, and from a vintage enthusiast’s vantage point, few brands are doing it like Nivada Grenchen. Every model and configuration oozes old-school cool and has been thoughtfully reinterpreted for today. The Windup Watch Shop is proud to welcome Nivada Grenchen and offer two of its most famous models: The OG Antarctic and the inimitable Chronomaster. At times the vintage watch world can seem like the Wild West: rife with danger and opportunity at the same time. Many who have gone deep down the rabbit hole may have discovered incredibly interesting watches at good value in mid-century watchmaking stalwart Nivada Grenchen. Established in 1926, the Swiss-based brand made a name for itself by building robust timepieces and was one of the first to mass-produce automatically...
Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac Honors Classic Motorsport with a Customizable Chronograph
Since 1997, Swiss watch brand Maurice de Mauriac has made an effort to think outside the box by mixing their national heritage in watchmaking with a bit of humor and storytelling mixed into each reference. Take, for instance, their latest, the Chrono Modern Grand Prix Zurich, where the story of this new release has taken the design elements from zero to sixty. To understand the Chrono Modern Grand Prix Zurich, one has to go back to 1939 at the outbreak of WWII. Zurich had plans to host their own Grand Prix; but, due to geopolitical tensions, the festivities were canceled. It wasn’t until nearly 80 years later when Maurice de Mauriac and racing simulation company, Züri Ring Simulation, were inspired to add a bit of pedal to the metal in the latest release from the brand. The racing simulation offers riders 200 racetracks and 200 cars to choose from as they race through a course designed to put the rider right into the action. Meanwhile, Maurice de Mauriac’s Chrono Modern Grand Prix Zurich complements this high-octane offering with two color options that are as subtle as they are impactful, showcasing the best of automotive culture and Swiss design into one. Choosing between either a brushed stainless steel or stainless steel with black PVD coating, wearers have a timeless watch that pairs well with just about any style. The racing visuals are only enhanced by the stripes on the dial or the Lucky Number at the 9 o’clock mark, which wearers can choose to really make ...
Time+Tide
The Hublot Big Bang Golf Sky Blue Carbon proves it’s all in the wrist
The Big Bang Golf Sky Blue Carbon is on par with anything a golf course could throw at it. Sorry, we couldn't help it.The post The Hublot Big Bang Golf Sky Blue Carbon proves it’s all in the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Zenith & Aaron Rodgers Reveal New Green Chronomaster Sport Chronograph
Last year, Zenith announced a partnership with football player Aaron Rodgers at an event in Green Bay, WI, home of the Packers. That season would be Rodgers’ 18th and final year with the team. Zenith would stick by Rodgers through his move to the New York Jets (coincidentally, the team we saw the Packers lose to during the announcement event, which you can read about right here) and a subsequent week 1 injury that would sideline the decorated QB for much of the season (just ho long remains to be seen). We had the opportunity to once again speak with Rodgers and Zenith CEO Julien Tornare this week in New York to see the first horological collaboration between the two: a green on green Chronomaster Sport. The watch uses the hugely popular 41mm Chronomaster Sport platform that we’ve seen rendered in a variety of materials and colorways, though it’s presented here in a manner we’ve never quite seen before. The ceramic bezel is a deep green with the dial following suit, creating a uniform appearance that places gray toned sub dials at the center, changing the relationship between the two. Historically, the trio of overlapping, and oftentimes tri-color sub dials serve as the focal point of the design, and are instantly recognizable as a Zenith hallmark. Here, the sub dials each get a slightly different gray tone, but very much take a back seat to the color surrounding them. The green isn’t the only thing immediately different about this limited edition, however. The ...
Worn & Wound
Certina Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Arena with the New DS-7 Powermatic 80
The affordable integrated bracelet sports watch wars have been waged on multiple fronts for many months at this point, and now, in a surprising development to some, they’ve hit the Swatch Group in a major way. Since its introduction, the Tissot PRX has been the standard bearer in the value driven integrated bracelet sports watch market, offering a huge variety of dial colors, sizes, and movement options at a price point that makes them compelling for collectors curious to try out what is undoubtedly still the hottest variety of sporty watch in the greater horological landscape. But now, a new challenger has emerged from within, with the introduction of Certina’s DS-7 Powermatic 80. Certina, at least in the United States, is frequently overlooked, as the brand doesn’t have significant distribution here, but they hold a key spot in the Swatch Group’s roster of brands on the more affordable side of the spectrum, and the new integrated offering here is an interesting and subtle contrast with the vaunted PRX. The PRX is notable for its highly angular case shape, inspired by a distinctly 1980s design language. Particularly in quartz variants, it feels decidedly retro while still giving more than a whiff of Royal Oak if you just give it a quick glance. The DS-7 as seen here is a very different animal, with a much softer and rounder case shape and bracelet integration. If the PRX conjures the 1980s, the DS-7 feels more like a 1970s throwback, particularly considering som...
Worn & Wound
Celebrating “Hitchcocktober” as a Watch Enthusiast
Costumes, trick-or-treating, jack-o-lanterns, scary movies; October brings a whole host of traditions. And nobody did the latter better-or lent his name to a seasonal pun more easily-than Alfred Hitchcock, whom cinephiles everywhere venerate this month with “Hitchcocktober” marathons of the great director’s oeuvre. Movie buffs look for Alfred Hitchcock’s requisite cameo in his films, but there are rarer cameos for watch fans to keep an eye out for as well. Hitchcock’s films are timeless and, unexpectedly, mostly timepiece-less. Possibly the most famous Hitchcock watch-spot: Jimmy Stewart’s Tissot in Rear Window Hitchcock earned his reputation as the Master of Suspense over a 54-year directorial career that saw Hitchcock create classics like Rebecca (1940), Vertigo (1958), Psycho (1960), and The Birds (1963). His films are rife with plot twists and mistaken identity, playful avoidance of censors, and some of the most creative, and unnerving, visuals ever put to film. Hitchcock was the man who thought up a crop duster chase scene and a shower stabbing and a dozen other iconic scenes that have become among the most famous in film history. The British director was workmanlike in bringing his vision to life on screen. Hitchcock once remarked that he believed “actors should be treated like cattle.” Watches get similar treatment in his film-when they do appear they are never window dressing, they’re predominantly used to, well, tell time. Take, for example...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Philippe Dufour Simplicity Prototype No. 000 in Pink Gold
With “indies” all the rage now, auction catalogues usually have a generous helping of independent watchmaking. Amongst the many offerings from the genre this season, a handful stand out, including the Philippe Dufour Simplicity prototype no. 000 in Phillips’ Geneva watch auction that takes place on November 3 and 4, 2023. This is one of three prototype watches Mr Dufour made for the 2000 Basel fair when the Simplicity made its debut. Two of them were in white gold with a silvered guilloche dial – Mr Dufour himself frequently wears one of them – and the last was this watch, which is pink gold with a white lacquered dial. Initial thoughts Today Philippe Dufour has grown beyond the personality and is essentially a brand, an evolution that arguably took place after the 20th anniversary Simplicity was launched 2020. In contrast, this Simplicity prototype, along with the first 200 examples Mr Dufour made, encapsulates the artisanal beginnings of the man and his brand. At the time of the Simplicity’s launch, and for more than a decade after, Mr Dufour found neither fame nor fortune, given that he only made a handful of Simplicity watches each year and sold each for about US$40,000. The early watches are perhaps purer creations that capture the essence of Mr Dufour’s vision, which was to pay tribute to the heyday of Vallee de Joux watchmaking. Mr Dufour, of course, managed to do it slightly better, explaining why his creations are often regarded as having the best m...
Worn & Wound
Watch Storage Solutions From the Windup Watch Shop
As collectors and enthusiasts, we know the world of wristwatches reaches far beyond the watches themselves. In fact, accessorizing is one of the best ways to expand and deepen our appreciation for what we have. One of the most fun (and important) considerations is how we store and keep our watches. When traveling, consider a right-sized watch roll that fits the right amount while keeping them secure and protected on the go. At home, a solid roll, box, or case can provide a safe and elegant storage solution. Whatever your need is, we’ve got it all in the Windup Watch Shop; read on to find out. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points towards rewards with every purchase. As collectors and enthusiasts, we know the world of wristwatches reaches far beyond the watches themselves. In fact, accessorizing is one of the best ways to expand and deepen our appreciation for what we have. One of the most fun (and important) considerations is how we store and keep our watches. When traveling, consider a right-sized watch roll that fits the right amount while keeping them secure and protected on the go. At home, a solid roll, box, or case can provide a safe and elegant storage solution. Whatever your need is, we’ve got it all in the Windup Watch Shop; read on to find out. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points towards rewards with every purchase. The post Watch Storage Solutions From the Win...
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches: Ep. 66 – Windup Watch Fair NYC Special
Welcome to a special episode of A Week In Watches filmed live on the floor of our Windup Watch Fair New York. This episode features first hand looks at some of the new watches released at or around the fair with commentary from the people behind them. This year’s fair was our biggest ever, so unfortunately we weren’t able to get to all the new watches, but we pulled aside a handful of the most interesting watches caught our eye during the fair. This includes watches from Laco, Baltic, Isotope and more, along with some of the EDC brands that showed up this year. There was no shortage of exciting watches to check out, and as always, some incredible watch spotting in the crowd of enthusiasts that showed up. We’ll in-depth reviews and hands-on reaction from much more of the watches we saw at this year’s fair, including the exciting Isotope chronograph, the Baltic Hermetique, and the Laco DIN 8330, each of which feature in this video. Keep an eye out for the new watches that released outside of the fair this week, such as the exotic new Omega PO and ultra-light Ming, in our next episode, until then catch our live look at the Windup Watch Fair NYC 2023 below. Thanks to our lead sponsors: Oris, Christopher Ward, Zodiac, G-Shock, and Citizen for making such a great impression upon first walking into the fair! The post A Week In Watches: Ep. 66 – Windup Watch Fair NYC Special appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
Urwerk UR-120 ‘Spock’: It’s Great to be A Nerd – Reprise
The Urwerk UR-120 is a thematic update for the UR-110 using what appears to be a very similar mechanism and dial layout. Even the case is generally the same. But while at first glance it shares much with the UR-110 in essence, when you start to compare the two this is a dramatically different watch, in particular when it gives you the Vulcan salute!
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: a Honda Prelude Concept, a Watch Fit for Ghostbusting, and Tricking Google
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Triwa x Ghosbusters If you’re of a certain age, there’s a good chance that the Ghostbusters movies are a touchstone and just as beloved, in their own way, as other huge franchises of the era, Star Wars and Indiana Jones among them. Our friends at Triwa are tapping into the comedy’s huge following with their latest collection, which sees the famous Ghostbusters “No Ghost” logo emblazoned right on the dial (which glows in the dark, of course). The TFO SUB Octopus, a 100 meter water resistant diver made of recycled ocean plastics, is the first of the two watches that make up the new collaboration. It features big, bold, lume filled hour markers and the “I ain’t afraid of no ghosts” catchphrase on the rehaut. The TFO Octopus, with a case made of the same material in two different color options, is also available, and is a field watch style execution with the iconic logo at 6:00. These are fun and affordable casual watches at a fair price, starting at $169. More info at Triwa here. The Honda Prelude Returns If you were a car enthusiast in the ‘90s there are a number of cars...
Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross BR-X5: A Masterclass in the “Foot-In-The-Door” Technique – Reprise
The Bell & Ross BR-X5 heralds a new design language that is still clearly Bell & Ross at its core but could be considered something dramatically different. And Joshua Munchow thinks it's a winner!
Quill & Pad
Tudor Black Bay P01 and The Story of the 1967 Prototype that Inspired It – Reprise
At Baselworld 2019, when the curtains were finally opened at the Tudor booth, a watch that had widely been considered a myth by many was revealed to be 100 percent real! The Tudor Black Bay P01 has now arrived.
Quill & Pad
It’s ‘Champagne Day’ with Krug: Pop the Cork and Cheers!
Held on the fourth Friday of October – in 2023, the 27th of October – Champagne Day was originally established in 2009 by Californian wine educator, Chris Oggenfus, and has taken off, with events around the world. You might be like Ken Gargett and have wondered why we need an official Champagne Day. Surely, every day is perfect for champagne?
SJX Watches
Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385
Pared back in style, this vintage-inspired limited edition from Panerai takes a simple approach in revisiting a historical design. With a faux-aged dial colour and conical crown, the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 celebrates the anniversary of the original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Priced well at just over US$5,000, it’s a limited edition with just 300 examples being made. Initial thoughts The execution of this is clean and will please those who appreciate historical Panerai design. There is nothing added on that doesn’t need to be there, and there are small details which play to those who know their Panerai history. It’s not an exact remake of a vintage model, but has a functional aesthetic that sticks to the spirit of the originals. As an aside, while I’ve never been a fan of mock ageing, the “tropical” dial is an even colour that doesn’t have a fake gradient to it, and so it can arguably be seen as a simple colour choice, rather than recreating faded pigment. Another notable detail is the 45 mm case. Oversized by most standards, it’s actually more compact than the average historical Radiomir as well as modern-day remakes, which were usually 47 mm. This makes it more wearable, while still looking big enough to retain the Panerai feel. Given the historical background of this design, and the appealing, no-frills design, the price of US$5,400 is good value, particularly when compared against Panerai models like the Radiomir California. With just 300 piec...
Hodinkee
Introducing: There's A New Lightest Watch In Town: The Ming LW.01
At 8.8 grams for the manual movement and 10.8 grams for the automatic, it claims to have broken any previous known record – and looks phenomenal too.
Time+Tide
Celebrating the second anniversary of our Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Night Surfer Time+Tide Edition
As one of our favourite collaborations to date, we look back at the stories of the Night Surfer.The post Celebrating the second anniversary of our Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Night Surfer Time+Tide Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Maen x Worn & Wound 'Manhattan'
The new striking limited edition gives you an Genta-inspired design at a great price.