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Bienne

Bilingual Swiss city; HQ of Rolex (1919), Omega (1880), Tissot, Movado, Mido, ETA SA, Nivarox-FAR.

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin In Two New Dial Variations Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Aug 28, 2025

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin In Two New Dial Variations

Vacheron Constantin is celebrating its 270th anniversary in 2025 with a steady stream of new releases. Among them is a pair of fresh takes on one of the most elegant sports watches in its stable, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. This model has long been a showcase of the maison’s ability to balance sportiness and […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin In Two New Dial Variations to read the full article.

First Look – The new Albishorn Marinagraph, The Imaginary Vision of a Regatta Chronograph Monochrome
Aug 27, 2025

First Look – The new Albishorn Marinagraph, The Imaginary Vision of a Regatta Chronograph

Imaginary vintage… This is the idea behind young indie brand Albishorn, the project of Sebastien Chaulmontet (Director of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita) and Fabien Collioud (designer). The idea is to create vintage-inspired models that never existed, but that could have been real at a time… Hypothetical watches that can be seen as missing links […]

Albishorn Counts Down to First Anniversary with Marinagraph SJX Watches
Aug 27, 2025

Albishorn Counts Down to First Anniversary with Marinagraph

We’ve been following Albishorn since the brand launched just shy of a year ago, and have enjoyed the themes the brand has chosen to explore with its ‘imaginary vintage’ concept. After applying this formula to aviation and mountaineering, the Marinagraph returns to the brand’s patented regatta countdown function for another take on the yachting chronograph. Available in classic black or sunray brushed teal dial finishes, the Marinagraph adds an aluminium bezel insert to provide at-a-glance reading of the current state of the local tides. Each version is limited to 99 pieces, which will be produced in small batches over the next three years. Initial thoughts Albishorn made its debut with a regatta timer, and it’s nice to see another foray into this genre to mark the brand’s first anniversary. Though regatta timers are surely among the least useful complications, the Marinagraph adds a tide bezel that adds a simple way for coastal buyers to monitor their local tides. As a seaside resident myself, I find this feature quite charming and it seems on-brand for Albishorn. Two dial colours are on offer, each limited to 99 (non-numbered) pieces. I prefer the classic black dial, which feels more in line with the imaginary vintage theme, but the sunburst teal dial, dubbed Paraíba Racing, is arguably more on trend with the prevailing tastes of the moment. The Marinagraph retains the best elements of Albishorn’s previous chronographs, namely its distinctive bowl-shaped be...

Rolex Bracelet Types Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Aug 26, 2025

Rolex Bracelet Types Explained

Rolex has made many lasting contributions to the world of watchmaking since its foundation in 1905, not the least of which has been an array of massively popular and widely emulated bracelet designs. Here we take a close look at every type of Rolex bracelet, what makes it special, and which Rolex watches, if any, are using them today. Rolex Oyster Bracelet Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet is the template from which many other three-link bracelet styles have been drawn. Its name comes from its association with the Oyster case - introduced by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and the most water-resistant watch case that had been made up to that point - and for which the original version of this bracelet served as an extension. Oyster bracelets are recognizable for their wide center links bordered by thinner end-links. Rolex patented the design in 1947 and fitted one on a watch in 1948. In the early versions, the links were riveted; these were phased out in favor of a “folding” style in 1967, which eventually gave way to the modern, solid-link style in 1975. Oyster bracelets come equipped with the accompanying Oysterlock clasp, a triple-deployant metal clasp with a safety-lock mechanism. Three-link bracelets like the Oyster and its various descendants are particularly popular on sports watches and dive watches, and this bracelet appears, as you’d expect on most of Rolex’s most popular “professional” models, including the Submariner, GMT-Master II, Explorer,...

Introducing – Vianney Halter and Massena LAB Launch the Old Soul Watch with Vintage Minerva Movement Monochrome
Massena Lab Launch Aug 26, 2025

Introducing – Vianney Halter and Massena LAB Launch the Old Soul Watch with Vintage Minerva Movement

The soul… This is what somehow defines independent watchmaking. Watches that have been designed and manufactured by individuals who have infused their soul into a timepiece that feels unique. On the topic of soul, design studio Massena LAB is presenting today its latest creation, a watch made with renowned and revered independent watchmaker Vianney Halter. […]

Isotope Officially Debuts the Long Awaited OVNI Jumping Hour Worn & Wound
Isotope Officially Debuts Aug 26, 2025

Isotope Officially Debuts the Long Awaited OVNI Jumping Hour

If you’ve attended the Windup Watch Fair, British Watchmakers’ Day, or any other watch event in the last few years where Isotope and brand founder Jose Miranda have been in attendance, chances are you got an early look at the OVNI, their long in the works watch with a jumping hour complication. Like the Moonshot before it, the OVNI Jumping Hour represents Isotope at their most ambitious, creating a watch with a design that seems to be dropped from another world entirely, and with a unique interpretation of a classic complication. Lots of enthusiasts have been waiting for the OVNI to land, and its general release is a big milestone for the brand, which happens to coincide with Isotope’s tenth anniversary.  Like other watches in Isotope’s collection, the OVNI borrows heavily from science fiction in its design language, most notably with the saucer shaped case, which the brand proudly admits was inspired by UFOs (the name of the watch, OVNI, comes from the Iberian/French abbreviation for “UFO”). It’s crafted from 904L steel and measures 40mm across and 13.6mm tall. Virtually every surface is either brushed (the body of the case) or sandblasted (the crown) for a look that is unmistakably industrial. The crown at 12:00 is mirrored by an Isotope badge on the 6:00 side of the case (wisely, there’s no branding on the dial).  The sci-fi vibes are perhaps even stronger on the dial, which is where Isotope reinterprets the jumping hour concept in their own way. It’...

First Look – The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Released Aug 26, 2025

First Look – The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite

Released in 2021, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport has been quite a success for the Le Locle-based brand. A versatile sports chronograph with enough arguments, visually and mechanically, to compete with the heavyweights of the category, it has been made in an array of different versions since its introduction. Ranging from classic to bold, we’ve seen […]

First Look – Two New Editions of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Aug 26, 2025

First Look – Two New Editions of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

The worthy successor of the 222 model (which is still made by the brand as part of the Historiques Collection), the Overseas has been Vacheron Constantin‘s vision of the luxury sports watch, a model made to compete with the two other icons of the genre, the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. The current Overseas, which […]

Maurice Lacroix Introduces the AIKONIC, a New Sporty Take on the Popular AIKON Models Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Introduces Aug 25, 2025

Maurice Lacroix Introduces the AIKONIC, a New Sporty Take on the Popular AIKON Models

Since its inception in 2016, the AIKON line has been Swiss watchmaker Maurice Lacroix’s bestselling collection. Nine years later, the brand is ready to kick it up a notch. The new aptly-named AIKONIC series packs updated mechanics and new materials into an upgraded case design with pops of color, promising innovation in the urban watch space while maintaining the original watch’s flavor. Does it land? Let’s take a look.  The first new aspect of note for the AIKONIC collection is the 43mm case; while it retains the familiar six double-wide “arms” around the bezel, a tactile grip cover is added to the crown. Both the bezel and the crown cover are composed of matt ceramic, which promises scratch-free usage for years to come. And while the case remains steel, it features both brushed and polished surfaces for visual and tactile complexity.  The carbon dial, too, is all-new on the AIKONIC. With carbon fiber strands running north to south in one direction as opposed to interwoven, each dial is slightly distinct from the next. Maurice Lacroix collaborated with a Swiss partner to create the dials, resulting in a construction that is fresh both structurally and aesthetically. The noth-south carbon pattern indeed gives each dial a vertical wave pattern, diversifying the design from both a textural and visual standpoint. Atop the dial sits silver text details, rhodium indices and second hand, and rhodium-facetted hour and minute hands. A sapphire crystal with anti-reflect...

Introducing – The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase now in Blue Editions Monochrome
Union Glashütte Aug 25, 2025

Introducing – The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase now in Blue Editions

The Belisar Chronograph Moon Phase has long been one of Union Glashütte’s signature watches, combining Saxon craftsmanship with the appeal of a complete calendar and lunar display. In 2023, the Belisar Chronograph line received a welcome refresh with sleeker proportions, more angular bezels, and a renewed emphasis on legibility. This year, the usually classic Belisar […]

New Release: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante Flying Tourbillon Aug 23, 2025

New Release: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph

Foudroyante, which is French for lightning bolt), chronographs have always been very rare because in measuring fractions of a second by driving a hand that rotates every second uses a lot of energy. With the Nano Foudroyante: Greubel Forsey has solved the inherent drawbacks in foudroyante chronographs by using nanotechnology to reduce power consumption by an incredible 1,800 times!

Louis Erard Introduces the Gravée Main, with a Fully Engraved Case Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces Aug 22, 2025

Louis Erard Introduces the Gravée Main, with a Fully Engraved Case

Of all the artisanal specialities in watchmaking, case engraving has to be among the most obscure and unheralded. I think there are a few reasons for this. One, the dial is where the action is on most watches, and applying a time consuming artistic craft on the case might be seen by some watchmakers as a waste of valuable time. Another factor is that to a large extent, we’ve all been trained to appreciate a particular type of case finishing. We see crisp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and that registers as being of a certain level of quality that we expect in a luxury watch. If those elements aren’t there, even if they’re substituted by something that might be visually striking, our reptile brains feel like there’s something missing. The latest in Louis Erard’s ongoing Métiers d’Art series, however, is a good opportunity to appreciate complex case engraving in a new way.  The whole idea behind how Louis Erard approaches Métiers d’Art, and to a certain extent the brand’s focus more generally, is to make craft accessible. The new Gravée Main is perhaps their most ambitious attempt in this area to date. Virtually every steel surface (the case, bezel, lugs, crown, and buckle) is hand engraved. According to the brand, each watch takes upwards of 50 hours to engrave by hand, and only 99 will be made.  Engraving is one of those things that really comes alive when you look at it closely and imagine that painstaking work that went into creat...

Introducing: The Seriously Fun Paulin Mara Dive Watches Fratello
Aug 21, 2025

Introducing: The Seriously Fun Paulin Mara Dive Watches

Ever since I had my first taste of Paulin’s watches almost two years ago, I have been all ears whenever the brand releases something new. But I was particularly excited when Nacho alerted me about the Glaswegian brand’s take on a dive watch. Put the most popular category of watches in the capable hands of […] Visit Introducing: The Seriously Fun Paulin Mara Dive Watches to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Traska Commuter 38 - A Daily Driver That Leaves A Lasting Impression Fratello
Aug 19, 2025

Hands-On: The Traska Commuter 38 - A Daily Driver That Leaves A Lasting Impression

In a fast-paced world, slow and steady progress is not often the chosen growth path for small watch brands. However, Traska has chosen this path and, as a result, has cultivated a passionate and dedicated following that loves the brand and its strategy. I have been keeping an eye on Traska over the past couple […] Visit Hands-On: The Traska Commuter 38 - A Daily Driver That Leaves A Lasting Impression to read the full article.

The Ultimate Guide To The Seiko 5 'SKX' GMT (2026) Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Aug 13, 2025

The Ultimate Guide To The Seiko 5 'SKX' GMT (2026)

If you’ve been in the watch game for long enough, there is a better-than-zero chance that you’ve owned, had someone recommend for you to own, or have at least come across the Seiko SKX series. The Seiko SKX (notably the black SKX007 and Pepsi-style SKX 009) once served as the go-to value proposition in all of watches. You can still find them trading on the open market for upwards of $500, but there was a time where one could be had easily for $150-$200. A 42mm, ISO-certified, bona-fide dive watch, the SKX represents the last vestige of a true tool watch that predates hype and everything that comes with it. I own one, and continue to wear it, scratch it and bang it around fearlessly. Seiko filled the dive-adjacent void once filled by the SKX, now discontinued, with a series of Seiko 5 models in all manner of colors that resemble the SKX but never quite took the idea across the finish line. And that’s because the SKX was a cult classic for a reason. It married function and form (except for accuracy, but that’s hardly why you buy a sub-$300 diver) in a way that we only hear about in tales from our “elders” who used to buy Rolex Submariners and GMT-Masters for $150 five decades ago. It’s been a number of years now since the SKX has been a production model in the broader Seiko lineup. But just two summers ago, the venerable, vertically integrated, Japanese juggernaut of a brand unveiled something new in the Seiko 5 range –  a travel-ready, SKX-looking release ...

Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the Rolex Daytona “Alcaraz” 126518LN with Turquoise Lacquer Dial Monochrome
Rolex Daytona “Alcaraz” 126518LN Aug 13, 2025

Hands-on – Some Thoughts about the Rolex Daytona “Alcaraz” 126518LN with Turquoise Lacquer Dial

In recent years, basically since the introduction of the ceramic bezel on the steel edition (the 116500LN), the Daytona has become the hottest watch in Rolex’s portfolio, but also remained a fairly conservative model, with a rather parsimonious use of colours. This hasn’t always been the case, though, and in the past, we’ve seen wild […]

Rolex GMT-Master II Review: The Bruce Wayne Rolex Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Aug 12, 2025

Rolex GMT-Master II Review: The Bruce Wayne Rolex

Before getting into the so-called "Bruce Wayne Rolex," let's establish some context. The Rolex GMT-Master is one of the Crown’s most popular models when it comes to the Professional line. It’s been an icon going back to its release in 1954, born out of a partnership with PanAm (in reality, it was a masterfully executed piece of marketing) that gave way to a new jet-setting, time-zone-malleable timekeeper. Since then, the GMT-Master (now the GMT-Master II, incorporating an even more user-friendly dual-time indication) has stood alongside the Datejust and Submariner as a core icon for the brand. It has also represented a platform for innovation for Rolex, being the first model line to see the brand transition to its “Super Case” format and its use of Cerachrom bezel tech. This paved the way for the introduction of a new, steel GMT-Master II in the late aughts with a black Cerachrom bezel insert, a green GMT hand, and green dial text. This stood for years as the most under-the-radar option for potential GMT-Master II buyers that didn’t feel comfortable slapping on a "Batman" or a "Pepsi." However, like many other popular models, it was discontinued. We saw echoes of its design materialize in form of the “Lefty” GMT, with its bi-color green-and-black bezel and matching green GMT hand. But the “Sprite” didn’t strike the same chord as that discontinued OG. Then the 70th anniversary of the GMT-Master rolled around in 2024, and Rolex surprised us all when it re...

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver Collection Fratello
Unimatic Aug 12, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver Collection

Unimatic has been busy introducing a string of clever new releases. Only last week, I did a hands-on review of the brand Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver from a series of nice vintage-inspired models. Today, we get treated to a new trio of models who are taking a different road. The three Modello Uno ProDiver […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver Collection to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: The Watches For New Collectors Entering The Hobby Fratello
Aug 12, 2025

Fratello On Air: The Watches For New Collectors Entering The Hobby

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we answer a listener’s question about the watches new collectors should consider when entering the hobby. It’s a question that has been asked many times, but, frankly, it’s been a while since we’ve tackled it. For our listeners, the watch talk begins after 23 […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Watches For New Collectors Entering The Hobby to read the full article.

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Celestial” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute Aug 12, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Celestial”

Long a pillar of Vacheron Constantin’s line-up, Métiers d’Art has usually been about figurative, decorative, and classical watches, with traditional motifs and techniques being a recurring theme. The Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Celestial” is, however, different in style from the usual Métiers d’Art offers, although its distinctive look is inspired by a one-off grand complication from 2021. The Tribute to the Celestial is a combination of familiar elements, but executed in a surprising way. It’s centred on traditional techniques, namely the hand guilloche dial and gem-set case, but modern in approach and aesthetics. The palette is largely blue and almost monochromatic, while the guilloche forms a geometric, polygonal motif. Initial thoughts At a distance, the Tribute to the Celestial is not what you expect. Across a room, it looks like a shiny, all-blue watch that could be ceramic or another contemporary material. It also doesn’t reveal much detail. But up close the Tribute to the Celestial shows off lots of refined detailing; it’s a double dose of metiers d’art, engine turning and gem setting. The primary metiers d’art on the Tribute to the Celestial is the guilloche on the dial that is done by hand in-house at Vacheron Constantin’s engine turning workshop. Instead of the common guilloche found on many watches, this employs straight lines at different angles to create a polygonal motif that forms a zodiac symbol, illustrating the versatility of...

JLC Reverso Tribute Review: A Discreet Icon With a Posh Party Trick Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 7, 2025

JLC Reverso Tribute Review: A Discreet Icon With a Posh Party Trick

Back in 2016 Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Reverso Tribute collection to celebrate the 85th anniversary of their iconic reversible rectangular-cased watch. Last year they added four new Reverso watches to this collection, two of which finally get us back to a case size that is nearly identical to that of the original Reverso from 1931. The Reverso has been a canvass for so many of JLC’s designs and watchmaking innovations over the years but I have to say it is so nice to get back to the basics with a legitimately unisex size and a monoface dial. As nice as the duoface Reversos are, the watch was conceived for polo players who wanted to protect their watch while leaving room for some personalization on the enclosed side. Here I am looking at the Reverso Tribute Monoface in steel with a blue dial, though it is also available in a white dial version. JLC Reverso History The year is 1931: Herbert Hoover is President, the Empire State Building in New York City is nearing completion, and the Star-Spangled Banner is adopted as America’s National Anthem. Of course, something entirely different is going on in the world of Swiss watchmaking when businessman and watch distributor Cesar de Trey attends a polo match while traveling in India. He notices one of the players watch crystal shattered while playing so he he pitched an idea to one of his colleagues who just happened to be Jacques-David LeCoultre. LeCoultre enlisted his partner Edmond Jaeger and the rest is, as they say,...

Saying Goodbye Worn & Wound
Aug 7, 2025

Saying Goodbye

It’s time to say goodbye. As the poet Rose once said, “nothin’ lasts forever, and we both know hearts can change.” That watch you once lusted after, saved for, and finally bought has run its course. It’s time to let it go, as sad as that might seem. You no longer reach for it in the morning. You no longer post it to Instagram. It has been absent from recent meetups, making room for newer pieces. It just sits there, reminding you of who you used to be. Once, you thought, this is it, I’ve found my one and only. A watch that represents me: my specific tastes and knowledge. It says, “I’m no casual watch fan,” but it isn’t flashy either. You’re an enthusiast, not a hype beast. This watch is for you, and those like you. A badge that says “I’m an insider.” You still like the watch and feel proud to own it, but you have to face the fact that you’ve outgrown it or changed altogether. you know the time has come You stop and think, “it’s not fair to the watch. A watch like this shouldn’t be collecting dust in a box or living its life in the darkness of a drawer.” You want to set it free. You say to yourself, “Hey, maybe there is someone who was just like me X years ago when I first bought it.” Younger, bright-eyed, still discovering who they are, horologically speaking. Maybe this watch can do for them what it did for you. After all, it wasn’t easy to get. You spent time finding it, waiting for the right reference in the right condition to ...

Omega Speedmaster White Dial Moonwatch Review Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Aug 6, 2025

Omega Speedmaster White Dial Moonwatch Review

The Omega Speedmaster is a strange watch. Omega’s most iconic chronograph enjoys an enviable history that has made it a household name, and instantly recognizable to even the most casual of enthusiasts. It has aged gracefully, changing surprisingly little since its introduction in 1957, which has no doubt buoyed its status as a bona fide icon. Along with, you know, landing on the moon and all that. But digging just a little bit deeper than the Moonwatch Professional reveals a mother lode of Speedmaster references of all shapes, sizes, and colors. Getting a grasp on the full lineage of the Speedmaster is daunting, and it’s something that we plan on breaking down in layman's terms in the near future, but it’s important to understand how these older (and at times obscure) references inform Omega’s latest and greatest releases. Of course, I am talking about the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white dial. The newest Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, released earlier this year, is the first regular-production steel Moonwatch to receive a white dial. There have been plenty of other Speedmasters to feature a white dial - from recent limited-edition Snoopy references, to the famed Alaska Project watches that originated in 1969 (and were seen again in a reissue from 2008) - so it’s not an entirely new look for the Moonwatch. This new variation is a bit different and, to my eye, draws inspiration from a different reference in the back catalog: the so-called Albino ...

Introducing – The Seiko 5 Sports x Pepsi SSK047 and SRPL99… The Watches That You Can Now Rightfully Call Pepsi Monochrome
Seiko 5 Sports x Pepsi Aug 5, 2025

Introducing – The Seiko 5 Sports x Pepsi SSK047 and SRPL99… The Watches That You Can Now Rightfully Call Pepsi

If it were only for the watches themselves, this would have been average news… But what properly got the ice-cool factor is that for once, we’ll be able to officially name watches with a red and blue bezel: Pepsi! You know the idea, we, watch enthusiasts, love to give nicknames to emblematic watches, something particularly […]

Fratello On Air: How The Watch Industry Can Reignite The Passions Of Collectors Fratello
Aug 5, 2025

Fratello On Air: How The Watch Industry Can Reignite The Passions Of Collectors

In the nearly 15 years since I began collecting watches in earnest, the watch industry has experienced significant growth. The last couple of years, however, have been a challenge. Inflation, geopolitical events, and other headwinds have now emerged. This has resulted in a tough market and high retail prices. So, what should brands do to […] Visit Fratello On Air: How The Watch Industry Can Reignite The Passions Of Collectors to read the full article.