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Results for GMT & World Time

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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Andersen Genève’s World Time Gains a Split Seconds Upgrade SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5373P Jan 7, 2026

Andersen Genève’s World Time Gains a Split Seconds Upgrade

Historically a complication associated with Svend Andersen, the pioneering independent who cofounded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the world time has been reworked and added to the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph movement to create the Rattrapante Mondiale. One of the most complicated offerings from Andersen Genève, the Rattrapante Mondiale features a clever two-level world time disc display while the cal. 179 inside is entirely finished by hand. Though the octogenarian Mr Andersen is now largely retired, Andersen Genève continues his artisanal approach to watchmaking that’s exemplified by the Rattrapante Mondiale. Initial thoughts Andersen Genève has produced a great many world time watches, but the Rattrapante Mondial is one of the most impressive. The movement is recognisably complicated, while the level of execution is high, especially for the movement and dial. Much of the work is also artisanal, as is typical for Andersen, which still operates out of Svend Andersen’s original premises. The Rattrapante Mondiale is appropriately sized for the design and movement, while the case styling is simple and good enough. Unusually, it’s a “destro” case with the crown on the left side and world time knob on the opposite side. The brand says it made left-handed cases for some one-off commissions in the past, but here it feels a little too much like an unnecessary affectation. It is also reminiscent of the Patek Philippe ref. 5373P...

Hands-On: Spending Time With The Improved Traska Venturer GMT Fratello
Sep 16, 2025

Hands-On: Spending Time With The Improved Traska Venturer GMT

It’s been only a few weeks since I reviewed the Traska Commuter 38. It left a lasting impression because it is a great daily wearer - let me rephrase that: it is the best affordable daily wearer I have worn recently. It proved to be a great go-to pick among other, far more expensive watches […] Visit Hands-On: Spending Time With The Improved Traska Venturer GMT to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Sport Vs. Grand Seiko Tentagraph Fratello
Grand Seiko Tentagraph Sunday morning! Time Aug 10, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Sport Vs. Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Sunday morning! Time for a cup of coffee and another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Mike and Jorg go head-to-head in a battle of the titanium high-beat chronographs. Mike’s pick this week is the titanium Grand Seiko Tentagraph. The first blue dial model was released in 2023 and got a follow-up this year. However, the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Sport Vs. Grand Seiko Tentagraph to read the full article.

Bovet Scales Down the Daylight-Savings World Time SJX Watches
Bovet Apr 17, 2025

Bovet Scales Down the Daylight-Savings World Time

Following the launch of the uber, multi-function world time last year, Bovet Fleurier continues its exploration of time zones with the Récital 30, a simpler, everyday-wear evolution on its complex predecessor. Initial thoughts The Récital 30 is more accessible both in terms of function and price, and more restrained in terms of design; overall it’s a more wearable version of the full-fledged original. The new world time caters to a different customer from last year’s Récital 28, the client who doesn’t necessarily care for lavish decorations or extreme complexity, but seeks a forward-thinking, wearable world time with some unique functionality. While the accessibility of this should be applauded – it costs almost one-tenth the Recital 28 – this does leave the impression of a watered-down creation. There is almost no lavish movement decoration visible, instead the dial fully covers the face. And the calibre only incorporates one complication, admittedly one executed in a complex manner. World time indication At its core, the Récital 30 is built on the same principles that underpin its pricier bigger brother, namely the clever roller world time system. This ingenious mechanical solution allows seamless adjustments across 25 distinct time zones, including GMT+5:30 for New Delhi, India, which is offset by an inconvenient 30 minutes. The beauty of the system is its calibration for four distinct annual periods: Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), American Summer Time...

Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC Fratello
VPC Time flies when you’re Jan 15, 2025

Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC

Time flies when you’re having fun! It has been a full two years since I set off on an adventure to build my dream watch, the VPC Type 37HW. Fratello offered me the fantastic opportunity to chronicle and share the journey with you all. Today, after having fulfilled all preorders, I would like to finish […] Visit Building A Watch Brand Episode 15: Looking Back On The First Two Years Of VPC to read the full article.

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Fall 2024 SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II “SARU” Nov 12, 2024

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Fall 2024

Perhaps the most surprising moment of the fall auction season in Geneva was when the hammer came down on an MoonSwatch at Christie’s for CHF69,300 including fees – exactly the same as a Rolex GMT-Master II “SARU” that sold later in the day. But as is almost always the case with record prices at auction, there was a story behind the price and a method to the madness. The MoonSwatch was the unique “millionth” example conceived specifically for this auction, where all proceeds went to ELA, a French medical charity. The ELA sale was spearheaded by Francois-Henri Pinault, the chief of Kering, the luxury conglomerate that owns Christie’s, and certainly one of the most influential people in the luxury goods business. Sitting in the room and opening the sale was Mr Pinault’s fellow trustee at ELA, Zinedine Zidane, the French footballer better known as Zizou who’s regarded as one of the all-time best players and coaches. Christie’s auctioneer Rahul Kadakia with Zizou. Image – Christie’s Bidding via phone, the winning bidder of the MoonSwatch – which sold for over 150 times the retail price – announced to the room via a Christie’s rep that his winning bid was for “ELA and Zizou”. It was clearly a statement that he or she would have paid up for whatever watch was on sale, regardless if it was plastic or precious metal. It was a good deed done that was no bearing on the MoonSwatch or watches in general. To the moon MoonSwatch aside, the season was pos...

[VIDEO] Recapping The Biggest Watch Fair in the World: 2024 Windup Watch Fair NYC Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward team ba Oct 31, 2024

[VIDEO] Recapping The Biggest Watch Fair in the World: 2024 Windup Watch Fair NYC

The week after the 2023 Windup Watch Fair, the team here at Worn & Wound sat down and evaluated what would become our final show at The Altman Building. Two things were clear. One, there were a lot more brands from around the world expressing interest in participating. And two, there were a lot more people at the Fair than we expected. It was obvious, we would need a new spot in 2024. Fortunately, we had a lead on a space right on 5th Ave-two floors and several rooms of wide open possibilities called Center415. It was a massive leap up in size, scale, and visibility, which all comes with some risk. But we learned it’s true, as they say: “If you build it, they will come.”  The NYC edition of the 2024 Windup Watch Fair was without a doubt, the biggest watch fair in the world. With well over 140 brands in attendance, more than 10,000 enthusiasts flocked to the Fair over the course of three days. We were pleasantly surprised to hear multiple moments of audible ‘oohs and aahs’ as folks made their way from hall to hall. Guests were immediately introduced to our EDC Expo presented by NOMATIC, a collection of gear and accessory brands with products that perfectly complement our passion for watches. At the end of EDC Expo, guests (of age) were able to sample Scotch Whisky from the island of Islay from our pals at Bruichladdich Distillery. Folks were then ushered into the first floor’s main hall, where they were welcomed by an always cheerful Christopher Ward team, ba...

Tudor Announces the FXD “Zulu Time,” the First Pelagos with a GMT Complication Worn & Wound
Tudor Announces Oct 30, 2024

Tudor Announces the FXD “Zulu Time,” the First Pelagos with a GMT Complication

Sooner or later, you just knew it was going to happen. For as long as there’s been a Pelagos, and as long as there’s been a Tudor GMT movement, and as long as there’s been a human impulse to speculate, there’s been a call for the Swiss brand to release a Pelagos with the ability to track multiple time zones. It just makes sense for the brand’s most tool-forward dive watch: GMTs are what the people want and it’s an undeniably useful feature. And so, like an infinite number of chimpanzees at an infinite number of typewriters are certain to eventually produce the works of Shakespeare, now Tudor has finally issued a diver with all the features their loyal fans have been asking for. Titanium case: check. GMT movement with chronometer certification: check. Rotating 24 hour bezel: check. Spring bars: hey, no one has it all.  The all new Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” might feel like an inevitability on the one hand, but on the other it still has a fascinating mix of little quirks that are capable of surprising even the most loyal Tudor fans (and speculators). Like the very first Pelagos FXD, this one is presented under a partnership with the French military. Specifically, the Zulu Time has been developed with the needs of the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation) in mind, and according to the brand the watch has been designed for the “adverse real-world conditions” faced by their personnel. For the original FXD, that meant a bi-directional bezel set up in...

Czapek Unveils A Flamboyant Version Of Its Antarctique For Milan’s GMT Great Masters Of Time Fratello
Czapek Unveils Oct 7, 2024

Czapek Unveils A Flamboyant Version Of Its Antarctique For Milan’s GMT Great Masters Of Time

Whenever Czapek announces a new Antarctique, I am all ears. The brand’s take on a modern sports watch with an integrated bracelet and a touch of ’70s flair is one of my favorite models in this genre. The design, the movement, and the craftsmanship that goes into creating these watches make them stand out immediately. […] Visit Czapek Unveils A Flamboyant Version Of Its Antarctique For Milan’s GMT Great Masters Of Time to read the full article.

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World Worn & Wound
Sep 24, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World

Editor’s Note: Today, we bring you the second part in the new series from Andrew Canter, the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this installment, Andrew examines the invention of the balance spring, a watchmaking advancement that not only charted a path for the watch industry, but can be said to have legitimately changed the world, enabling accurate, reliable, and portable timekeeping for the first time in human history. Who actually invented it, though, is still a matter of some debate, even after 350 years.  You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. Prior to the Balance Spring Early watches were powered by a verge escapement which was the same type of movement used in the early clocks. The verge is the earliest known type of mechanical escapement that controlled its rate by allowing the gear train to advance at regular intervals or ‘ticks’. Verge escapements were used from the late 13th century until the mid-19th century in clocks and pocket watches. Drawing of a verge escapement (bottom) and balance wheel (top) from an early pocket watch from an encyclopaedia c.1820 In the earliest watches a plain wheel, known as the balance, was used to control the rate of going of the mechanism. There wasn’t a consistent restoring force (such as a fusee), so consequently, its period of oscillation and, hence, the rate of the timekeeper were dependent on the driving force. Oval verge escapement watch movement by William Petit, Londo...

New: Armin Strom unveils the Dual Time GMT Resonance in 39mm Deployant
Armin Strom unveils Aug 31, 2024

New: Armin Strom unveils the Dual Time GMT Resonance in 39mm

Swiss independent watch brand Armin Strom celebrates the 15th anniversary of its fully-integrated Manufacture by reimagining its most historically significant innovation, the resonance complication, in an entirely new Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition. The new timepiece is presented in a hotly-anticipated 39-mm case size made in 18-karat white gold and limited to 25 pieces.

Armitron’s First Major Rebrand in 50 Years: Beyond Fashion Watches? Worn & Wound
Rolex Pepsi” GMT Jul 17, 2024

Armitron’s First Major Rebrand in 50 Years: Beyond Fashion Watches?

Regardless of what’s in your collection now, we all had a piece that acted as a gateway drug – the one that first sunk the horology hook in. Maybe your fondest early wristwatch memories are illuminated in Timex Indiglo? Perhaps they take the shape of a Casio G-SHOCK? Could it have been an analog Armitron with one of the Looney Toons characters on the dial? Maybe your dad bought you a bogus Rolex “Pepsi” GMT on Canal Street and threw it on a rubber strap so you could wear it as a 7 year old, and maybe someone stole it out of your duffle bag at Tae Kwon Do and you’re still not fully over the loss at 37?  Most of the manufacturers that helped us originally fall in love with wristwatches have found creative ways to grow with us and to evolve as watch collecting has shifted into the mainstream. Timex currently boasts a respectable line of vintage-inspired, entry level watches – including a few collaborative pieces with Worn & Wound that we, of course, think are fantastic. G-SHOCK has managed to stay exceptionally relevant via hyped celebrity collabs with the likes of John Mayer and Ed Sheeran. As for Armitron, they’ve maintained a comfortable station as a producer of affordable fashion watches that are generally sold at big box stores, and while their line has consistently included a few playful heritage pieces that hint at the potential for more, they’ve never really been a part of the conversation for enthusiasts. However, that might be changing as Armitron h...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Mike’s Picks From Seiko, Ming, Oak & Oscar, And Longines Fratello
Longines It’s time May 28, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Mike’s Picks From Seiko, Ming, Oak & Oscar, And Longines

It’s time to chime in on the best watches under €2,500. It’s a tough subject for a couple of reasons. First, many of my colleagues have already opined and used up some great picks. Second, this price level now feels like a no man’s land because most brands prefer to play above or below it. […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Mike’s Picks From Seiko, Ming, Oak & Oscar, And Longines to read the full article.

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 12, 2024

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001

Amongst Patek Philippe’s best known complications is the travel watch, most notably the traditional world time with its mechanism inspired by the Louis Cottier system. Continuing with that tradition, the Patek Philippe World Time with Date ref. 5330G-001 features a thoughtful date complication that has been smartly implemented to allow it to go backwards and forwards in sync with the world time display. This is the regular production version of a model first introduced last year at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Tokyo as a limited edition. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe World Time watches have mostly abided by the same 24 city indication style since the 2000’s. The Cottier system is a very convenient way of showing the time simultaneously across 24 timezones by using a 24 hour disk in conjunction with a cities’ disk. The new World Time adds a novel date indication linked to the local time. Though simple on its face, the date display is a sophisticated, two-finger mechanism that allows the date to automatically go backwards or forwards as the time display changes. Travelling from Tokyo to Hawaii, for instance, sends the date backwards. The timepiece gains in utility, as it shows more information to the prospective globetrotter, all while keeping the additional indication discreet.  A practical addition The dial may seem cluttered at first, but when taken separately the indications are reasonably legible. The innermost dial with traditional dauphine-shaped hands show...

Patek Philippe Does Double Denim: Introducing The World Time Date 5330G And Nautilus Chronograph 5980G Fratello
Patek Philippe Does Double Denim Introducing Apr 9, 2024

Patek Philippe Does Double Denim: Introducing The World Time Date 5330G And Nautilus Chronograph 5980G

Patek Philippe does double denim at Watches and Wonders 2024, and I’m all for that. The brand from Geneva is casually showing some laid-back novelties that are, of course, not as casual as they appear to be. The complicated World Time Date 5330G first debuted as a limited edition at Patek Philippe’s “Watch Art” grand […] Visit Patek Philippe Does Double Denim: Introducing The World Time Date 5330G And Nautilus Chronograph 5980G to read the full article.

The three watches D.C. wore most in 2023 – Omega, Casio, Serica Time+Tide
Serica It’s time again Dec 30, 2023

The three watches D.C. wore most in 2023 – Omega, Casio, Serica

It’s time again to look back on The Year That Was, and take a moment to reflect upon the bastions of my personal watch rotation. Some pieces are purely sentimental: a thread connecting the past, a meaningful gift from a loved one, or a personal trophy marking a significant life event. Others are dispassionately pragmatic: … ContinuedThe post The three watches D.C. wore most in 2023 – Omega, Casio, Serica appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Best of 2023: Notable Surprises and Unexpected Developments SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time Dec 28, 2023

Best of 2023: Notable Surprises and Unexpected Developments

Perhaps the most surprising aspect of the year was how predictable much of it was. We saw more sports watches with integrated bracelets and more time-only watches with ostensibly artisanal decoration. Paradoxically, most of the notable surprises came from establishment marques that would ordinarily be predictable. Amongst them are the Rolex Perpetual 1908 and Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time ref. 5224R, both thoughtful creations that are typical for their respective brands. Here are our picks for the year’s best surprises in watchmaking. Brandon Moore Technical Contributor An unexpected, but user-friendly complicated watch that debuted this year is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R, a simple dual time watch with a twist: both time zones are indicated on a 24-hour dial, eliminating the need for an auxiliary day-night indicator. Not only is the functionality appealing, but the aesthetic and ergonomic execution is done well. While 42 mm may seem large for a Calatrava, the watch is visually smaller thanks to its abundant use of applied markers on the dial and stepped case and lugs. Moreover, and importantly, it is different for Patek Philippe, which is notable since the brand usually errs on the side of the tried and tested. Who would have thought Patek Philippe would remake the Chronometro Gondolo into a wristwatch? Richard Lee Technical Editor I was surprised when I first saw the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref....

The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Aug 26, 2023

The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all

“The World Is Yours” Dual Time Zone watch is a tribute to a family heirloom Jacob Arabo received at the age of 13 This two-dialed Wakmann inspired Arabo to aspire to create his own watches, and has informed his designs ever since It utilises a new manufacture calibre JCAA11, and this limited edition release is … ContinuedThe post The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.