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Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.
Moser's wildest Streamliner yet pairs a flying tourbillon skeleton with a ceramic case, all under the Alpine F1 banner
Four new calibers in 12 months. The latest drops a flying tourbillon and a micro-rotor into a 39mm Laureato case, and it looks the part.
Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.
Quill & Pad
Love them or hate them, one thing that most collectors know is that tourbillons are very expensive. That's all changed with Patria's Brigadier Tourbillon Subscription Edition costing 'just' CHF 18,000 for a beautifully hand finished Swiss Made tourbillon.
Worn & Wound
Many watches are designed to perform specific tasks or serve specific purposes beyond telling the time. Divers have bold markers and ratcheting bezels, pilot watches are oversized and might include a second time zone, track watches feature chronographs or tachymeters, etc, and then, there’s the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eaters. Featuring a giant eyeball for the hour hand, a spinning set of teeth for the seconds, and a double-sided arm that’s giving a one-finger salute, they don’t seek to fulfill a practical purpose. Instead, I’d classify them as “memento absurdum,” which is to say, objects that remind you of the absurdity, whether in life or watch collecting. If you’re thinking, “Now, wait a second, didn’t they just come out with a new Time Eater like a few days ago?” you’d be correct. A 42mm model with a navy blue chapter ring and a darker silver than previous versions, it was a handsome, if iterative, addition. But the Time-Eater is back once again, this time with a substantial change: it now has a tourbillon. This isn’t the first time we’ve seen Louis Erard use a tourbillon movement, specifically the “affordable for a tourbillon” BCP T02 by Olivier Mory, which appeared on a few of their Alain Silberstein collabs. The Time-Eater Tourbillon (TET from here out) is basically a reedition of one of the first two Time-Eaters, which was initially introduced in either a 39mm case with a purple chapter ring, or a 42mm case with a green ch...
Monochrome
The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon marks the evolution in the ongoing collaboration between the Swiss indie brand and master watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin. Building on the success of the previous “Time Eater” regulator models, part of Chaykin’s expressive Wristmons universe, the new model introduces a tourbillon with regulator display to the series […]
SJX Watches
Having collaborated on several iterations of the affordable “Time Eater” regulator, Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin now close the chapter on the model with something more complicated. The Time Eater Tourbillon Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin tells the time regulator style – retaining the trademark “eyeball” hours from the Russian independent’s Wristmon series – but inside the “mouth” is a one-minute tourbillon. At CHF19,900, the Time Eater Tourbillon is pricier than the earlier time-only models, but still relatively accessible as such things go, thanks to a no-frills, but Swiss, tourbillon movement inside. Initial thoughts I liked the original Time Eater regulator because the design captures the Konstantin Chaykin style but makes it affordable at about a fifth of the price of a Wristmon. The Time Eater Tourbillon is less affordable, but still priced a little less than a Wristmon, so it is still a value proposition. More broadly, it’s a good thing that Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are ending the Time Eater series. After three time-only regulator launches and this tourbillon, the concept has probably reached an optimal point of just enough and not overexploited. Rolling eye whimsy The Time Eater Tourbillon will be available in two variants: a green-accented model as pictured here that’s limited to 78 pieces, and one in blue that’s limited to 28. The former will be available from Louis Erard and its retailers, while the latter will only be so...
SJX Watches
A subtler version of its flagship model, the Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series looks almost like a time-only watch. It does away with the dial cutout for the tourbillon, leading to a more toned-down appearance for the complicated watch that combines a three-gong carillon repeater with a tourbillon. Notably, the new model is also available in a two-tone configuration of titanium and 18k rose gold. Initial thoughts Watchmakers usually highlight the tourbillon, putting the regulator front and centre of the dial (and charge a lot more for the mechanism too). Back in 2023, Biver made its debut with a tourbillon minute repeater, which proudly displayed the tourbillon at six o’clock. Now the brand has reprised the model, but conceals what was the main showpiece on the dial. The two models are delivered with a set of cufflinks, material-matched to the watch The closed dial plainly conceals the tourbillon underneath. And due to the movement’s construction, the tourbillon can’t be seen from the case back either - making for a confusing sight. The end result is a very understated timepiece that doesn’t reveal itself easily, or much at all. In fact, the apparent simplicity is underlined by the dial, which is almost identical to that of the time-only Automatique. It features the same brushed circular sectors and micro relief minute track have become staple design elements of the brand. Were it not for the repeater slide, one would even be tempted to assume this is...
Hodinkee
Exactly 224 years to the day after Abraham-Louis Breguet patented the tourbillon, Breguet reveals a host of firsts.
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen has been revived in fine style thanks to its investors and of course Kari Voutilainen. With the Finn in charge of watchmaking, the reborn brand made its debut with a trio of watches led by the flagship Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon. Inspired by the Oval pocket watch made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen, the UJ-1 is impressive in its execution, from construction to decoration. The quality is evident across the watch, which is unsurprising given Mr Voutilainen’s role in its conception and production. And the occasionally controversial lugs give an otherwise classical watch a distinct character. Initial thoughts The fine details of the UJ-1 are easily apparent in the metal. The movement decoration and construction are both impeccable, and so is the guilloche on the dial. But it is details like the engine turned case back and typography that give the UJ-1 that little bit of extra refinement. It is obvious from the photos, the movement quality is outstanding. Frosting, black polishing, chamfering, and so on – all are expertly accomplished. Moreover, all of the decoration is done in a traditional, often manual manner, rather than being mostly done by machine and then finished off by hand as is increasingly the case now. But finishing is merely the more obvious aspect of the appeal. The construction of the movement is equally impressive. It captures the style of the Oval pocket watch, including the three-dimensionality and clean aesthetics. Even though...
Time+Tide
Tourbillons can be many things, but can they be affordable? These seven watches are proof that they can.The post The seven affordable tourbillon watches you’d actually want to buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
We’ve covered independent Swiss watchmaker Horage many times in the past few years, including several of its in-house movements from automatics to micro-rotors to tourbillons. The latest Autark Tourbillon separates itself as it’s truly a rare feat in watchmaking, combining a micro-rotor and tourbillon within the in-house K-TMR calibre. It’s all wrapped in Grade 5 […]
Monochrome
In haute horlogerie, few relationships have shaped timekeeping history quite like that of John Arnold and Abraham-Louis Breguet. Bound by shared respect and a deep commitment to mechanical innovation, their friendship helped lay the groundwork for modern precision watchmaking. Arnold & Son’s latest release, the Constant Force Tourbillon 11, is a tribute to that legacy […]
Deployant
Ba1110d once again partnered with with Olivier Mory to bring this next iteration of their flying tourbillon, now in a very discreet, onyx dial.
Time+Tide
The Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve raises the bar for Square Bangs, debuting an architectural, shaped movement.The post Who says squares are boring? Hublot’s latest Square Bang has a tourbillon twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
BA111OD is a young Swiss brand with a bold mission - to bring high-end watchmaking complications like the tourbillon to enthusiasts at a far more attainable price point. Since its founding in 2019, BA111OD has gained a reputation as a rising force in contemporary Swiss independent watch brands. It blends innovation with a commitment to […] Visit BA111OD Introduces The Chapter 4 Skeleton Tourbillon Ice White to read the full article.
Deployant
Kross Studio unveils the MT1 Chronomètre Tourbillon 7 days - their first watch in the new Marco Tedeschi Collection, a signature watch.
Time+Tide
Tourbillons are associated with hefty price tags, but our list includes surprisingly affordable watches along with expectedly pricey ones.The post 14 of the best tourbillon watches from least to most expensive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The king of affordable Swiss made tourbillons releases a new flying tourbillon priced below the CHF 11k: The Ba111od Chapter 4 Infinity Flying Tourbillon.
Time+Tide
How thin is too thin? Bulgari continues to claim horological superlatives with the Octo Finissimo line.The post The battle for thinness rages on with Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the world’s new thinnest tourbillon watch (live pics + video) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The XPL has a new, airy look.The post IWC goes shockingly complicated with the Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin celebrates its grand 270th anniversary this year. For a brand with such an illustrious and storied past, an anniversary of this calibre means rolling out the big guns. To commemorate the date, Vacheron Constantin unveils a new high-end manufacture calibre combining a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. Limited to 127 pieces and presented […]
Hodinkee
Get ready to see this one next to a credit card for scale, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon measures just 1.85mm thick (or thin).
Fratello
This year marks the 270th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin. The Genevan brand is one of the world’s foremost luxury horology houses, leading to high expectations for 2025. In January, we were treated to the stunning stainless steel Historiques 222. During Watches and Wonders, Vacheron Constantin unveils its next horological highlight. The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
As a writer and a dabbler in watercolors, I can say that there is nothing more exciting than a blank canvas. I’m happy to say that Czapek seems to agree. According to CEO Xavier de Roquemurel, their sporty Antarctique has long been seen as a blank canvas to showcase the talents under the maison. Enter the Antarctique Tourbillon. At its core, it’s a tension between the avant-garde and the traditional, making for a watch that toes the line perfectly between sophisticated and playful. To achieve this, Czapek designed an all-new pattern called Singularité, named after the astronomical phenomenon where the laws of physics begin to break down – like that of a black hole. This is a bit of a tongue-in-cheek name for the technique used to describe the Singularité design. It may look deceptively simple – like a black hole – but in reality it’s a mixture of technique, artistry, and precision to create the pattern, which has no one starting point, unlike traditional guilloché. The case’s design, too, belies the technical precision needed to create something so simple. The case of the Antarctique Tourbillon has been redesigned to echo the curvilinear aesthetic of the dial. To achieve this, the front and back sapphire crystals have been raised a tiny bit, giving the impression on the reverse side that there is no bezel. Thanks to bridge design that gives the whole dial an airy feel, the wearer is left with the impression that components are floating in mid air. All of...
Monochrome
Favre Leuba is among the oldest of watchmakers, founded in 1737 and ultimately sold by the family in the mid-1980s following the quartz crisis. Although ownership changed multiple times, it’s latest and perhaps most compelling relaunch happened last year when Patrik Hoffmann, former CEO of Ulysse Nardin took the helm and the new Chief Tourbillon […]
Deployant
Favre Leuba releases the Chief Tourbillon, its first ever since the brand's founding in 1737 in a collaboration with Jean-François Mojon.
Time+Tide
This elegant tourbillon piece celebrates the friendship between two legendary watchmakers: John Arnold and Abraham-Louis Breguet.The post The Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 is the result of a historic friendship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Arnold & Son presents the limited edition Constant Force Tourbillon 11, a classical beauty inspired by the first tourbillon created by Abraham-Louis Breguet based on John Arnold’s marine chronometer movement no. 11. Reunited once again, the yellow gold watch, with a constant force mechanism on the dial and a tourbillon regulator on the caseback, is […]
Monochrome
Delma, founded in 1924, is a family-owned brand based in Lengnau, Switzerland, with a solid track record of rugged, high-performance sports watches adapted to racing, airborne and diving pursuits. Last year, Delma surprised its fan base with the release of a tourbillon to celebrate its 100th anniversary powered by the brand’s first proprietary movement. Following […]
Deployant
Delma release two new editions to their 1924 Tourbillon, featuring two dial colours: blue and salmon graind de riz guilloché.
SJX Watches
A boutique exclusive to celebrate the opening of its Menlo Park store in Silicon Valley, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Yellow Gold is perhaps the most extravagant iteration of H. Moser & Cie.’s sports watch to date. This new iteration retains the same dimensions and specifications as its stainless steel predecessor, but is entirely in 18k yellow gold, giving it a somewhat retro feel that complements the “lobster” integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts Although the trend for integrated-bracelet sports watches has waned, the Streamliner still stands out as one of the better offerings in the category from independent watchmakers. It combines a distinctive design – rare in the segment – with mostly affordable pricing. At CHF125,000, the new Streamliner Tourbillon is of course not one of the affordable models since it is entirely in gold, but it is a good looking watch. Arguably the only weakness of the model is the increasing number of high-end Streamliner models, both in precious metals and set with gemstones, which make this less unique than it would otherwise be. Boutique exclusive Apart from its all-yellow gold construction, the new Streamliner Tourbillon mirrors its stainless steel predecessor, featuring a 40 mm-wide and 12.1 mm-thick cushion-shaped case. Visually, the focal point is the open-worked dial showcasing a one-minute flying tourbillon at six o’clock. Faceted baton-style hour markers and hour and minute hands are plated in yellow gold, compleme...
Deployant
Its time for us to pander to our fascination of the tourbillon. Here are our recommendations for the best of the best from recent years.
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