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Type XX Breguet

The 1954 French military flyback chronograph - reborn in-house in 2023.
Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 22, 2023

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches

Deck the halls with straps and spring bars! Well… maybe. ‘Tis the season for giving and you may be wondering if you should gift a special someone their first timepiece. It just so happens that gifted watches can be surprisingly controversial. It doesn’t seem that a token of affection for someone in your life, especially around the holidays, would be complicated. Yet, type “watches as gifts” in your favorite search engine, and you’re sure to see long lists of debates on this topic. The rationale ranges from cultural superstition to practical concerns about preferred tastes and styles. It’s certainly worth considering your position on these perspectives before parting with one of your own watches or diving into a purchase on behalf of a loved one. However, I’m here to provide some personal insight into this conversation and perhaps convince you to take a chance on the prospective horologist in your life this season. My collecting journey began just over two years ago when I received a hand-me-down watch from a friend. I was, then, a graduate student unaware of the watchbox-free counter space I was taking for granted. I hadn’t critically considered watches before, but knew I was drawn to material “stuff.” My apartment was filled with hundreds of books I’d accumulated over the years along with MOLLE-paneled backpacks, knives, sports equipment, and various trinkets I had used (or might one day use) in my adventures. I gravitated toward things I knew were...

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Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Dec 21, 2023

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today.  1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...

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Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer Worn & Wound
Baltic Hermetique Tourer When you Nov 7, 2023

Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer

When you look at Baltic’s lineup, you may have noticed the absence of a field watch. After tackling dive watches, GMTs, and other platforms, all with an eye toward a specific type of vintage elegance, Baltic has released the Hermetique Tourer - their take on the classic go-anywhere, do-anything field watch.  Field watches are great, don’t get me wrong, but when so many are built to a specific military specification, they start to get a little bit stale. That’s not the case at all with Baltic’s newest field-ready wrist companion. The Hermétique takes those classic defining elements of a field watch and elevates them with style to fit Baltic’s overall aesthetic. Let’s jump in and take a closer look at this fun, reasonably-priced, and feature-packed entry into a new category of watches from Paris’ own Baltic Watches. $590 Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9039 Dial Green Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Tropic rubber, stainless bracelet Water Resistance 150 meters Dimensions 37 x 46mm Thickness 10.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Integrated, push down Warranty Yes Price $590 Case At first glance, the 37mm case looks surprisingly sleek. In case you missed it, the crown on the right side of the case pushes in to a point where it’s flush with the lines of the case, giving the Hermétique a largely circular appearance. While we tend to praise field and pilot watches for their large, accessible crowns, it’s nic...

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Traska Launches a New and Improved Venturer GMT Worn & Wound
Nov 6, 2023

Traska Launches a New and Improved Venturer GMT

It has been a little over two years since Zach introduced the first iteration of Traska’s Venturer. A multipurpose sports watch which boasted incredible specs for your hard earned money. While the first model retailed for $585 and was equipped with a time and date Miyota 9019, the new version retails for $720 and is equipped with a “true” GMT Miyota 9075 caliber. That’s a meager $135 extra for a completely different movement which offers a new type of functionality: traveling like a pro. What’s more is that the brand added a tool-less micro-adjust clasp and gave the case a gentle facelift whilst improving its overall construction and finish. What’s not to like here? There are many ways to discuss watches. It could be its design, value, or the use of a unique movement. To be fair, many of us like to talk about value. We all like a good deal and the thing about micro and independent brands is that the “deals” get better and better each day. More specs, better construction, improved finish. Things just keep getting better. And you might find that the new Venturer GMT may very well be one of the best value GMTs out there right now by just looking at the spec sheet: a true GMT caliber, box-style domed sapphire crystal, tool-less micro-adjust clasp, 150 meters of water resistance, generous application of BGW9 lume, and a case and bracelet made of hardened steel. This makes the Venturer GMT a true travel companion and a proper tool watch.  Traska was one of the f...

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Exploring the Importance of the Watch Strap Worn & Wound
Casio nally be writing about Aug 8, 2023

Exploring the Importance of the Watch Strap

Editor’s Note: If you’re a particular type of watch enthusiast, you might know Stephen Damico from his website, Strap Sense. Strap Sense is one of those little corners of watch enthusiasm that can only exist in a space filled with people who are truly passionate about their hobby. It’s a blog devoted entirely to strap reviews, with every bit as much attention and care paid to the intricacies of a strap as we pay to watches here on Worn & Wound. We love straps, and appreciate the huge variety of straps of all kinds that are out there to be mixed and match, and we’re excited that Stephen will occasionally be writing about some of the straps that are of most interest to him right here on these pages. Today, before any formal reviews, we asked Stephen to introduce himself, and tell us about why he feels the watch strap is worthy of such a close analysis.  I have a saying I often use on my website that informs how I approach writing about straps: a watch strap tells the story wherein the watch is the main character.   It is all about the story – it is who we are. Entire marketing campaigns are built around creating and curating a story, and we all wear watches to help tell our story. One day we can be a diver, another an astronaut, and by the weekend we are a super spy or royalty. Mark Twain once said, “I like a good story well told. That is the reason I am sometimes forced to tell them myself.” There is nobody on earth more qualified to help you tell your sto...

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Using Your Time to Make a Difference: an Interview with Chris Baker Worn & Wound
Jul 19, 2023

Using Your Time to Make a Difference: an Interview with Chris Baker

Chris Baker is not the typical watch enthusiast we’re used to reading about. He’s not an actor, a titan of industry, or any sort of celebrity brand ambassador. He is, however, the type of person we need more of. Chris describes himself as a “homelessness and housing advocate and service provider.” In fact, he is the founder of The Other Ones Foundation (TOOF) in Austin, Texas, a nonprofit that offers humanitarian aid, case management and extremely low-barrier work opportunities to people experiencing homelessness.  You may know Chris from Netflix’s hit reality show, Queer Eye. He was the hero featured in season 6, episode 8. For those unfamiliar, Queer Eye is a feel-good show where five hosts come into the lives of extraordinary people who do and represent extraordinary things, but need a hand in claiming ownership of the incredible people that they are. This was my introduction to Chris. I connected with his story so much that I began following him on Instagram, and over the last couple of years he’s become a friendly online acquaintance. Eventually I found out that Chris is a watch enthusiast, so I reached out to him to have a conversation about his love of watches and where they fit into his life.  Chris comes off as a rocker who’s made his way around the block, cracking jokes, delivering a bit of snark in a gravel tone, evoking some 90s grunge vibes – I was waiting for him to croon “Black Hole Sun,” alas, it didn’t happen. Instead he explained t...

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From Designer Eric Giroud, the New Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One of the Trippiest Dials We’ve Seen Worn & Wound
Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One Jun 20, 2023

From Designer Eric Giroud, the New Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One of the Trippiest Dials We’ve Seen

A watch, like any designed object, is the product of a series of decisions, and those decisions can define it. At some point, whoever is making the thing has to determine what type of watch it’s going to be, what sort of movement it will have, the size, the style of handset and indices, the dial colors, and so forth. The most successful watches, in my opinion, are those made by people who have come to tough but deliberate decisions. We’ve all seen watches that feel like they are just too much in one way or another, and they never tend to work. The new Geometry by Schwarz Etienne is literally the watch equivalent of a fully loaded luxury car: when it comes to dial finishes, it has every option. But instead of being too much, it works in a sort of psychedelic way. Whatever you think of it, I think it’s hard to argue that it’s the product of some serious decision making.  The Geometry comes to us via designer Eric Giroud, who has previously worked with brands as diverse as Louis Erard, MB&F;, Mido, and many more. The dial is divided into four distinct quadrants, each incorporating different dial finishes and patterns. You can imagine any one of the single quadrants made as an entire dial, and the watch would probably look great. But broken into pieces, you get a sense of how these different patterns and finishes work with and against one another. The fact that it’s somewhat jarring to look at at first is a reminder of the difficulty of watch design in the first plac...

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Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Closes Out May 25, 2023

Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition

The latest from Kurono Tokyo is a new version of their Calendrier Type I, a reference that was a finalist in the 2022 GPHG awards. A triple calendar is an old school complication, so it makes sense for a brand like Kurono to experiment on this platform, with their design language so deeply rooted in Art Deco principles and mid 20th century ideas around size and style. The new Calendrier is a Kurono anniversary model, thus it will be sold as a “time limited” edition, meaning prospective owners will have specific windows during which they can make a purchase, and Kurono will fill every order placed in these windows. Kurono has also announced that this will be the final version of the Calendrier Type I, so if this is a reference you’ve been hunting, we’re approaching your last chance to snag one directly from the brand.  Kurono has dubbed this model the Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki,” a name derived from the maroon color of the dial. Azuki means “red bean” in Japanese, and in Japan is a color commonly associated with cars. Maroon was once a common standard vehicle color, so this watch is subtly auto inspired and a throwback in more ways than one.  According to the brand, achieving this particular tone of maroon was a significant challenge. To get the color right, Kurono used phosphor-bronze rather than the typical brass for the dial material, which allows them to get the proper shade of red during the finishing process. Kurono notes that phosphor-bronze is m...

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The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic Gets a “Fugu” Makeover Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic Gets May 10, 2023

The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic Gets a “Fugu” Makeover

Name any type of environment or situation, whether that be diving the depths of the ocean, exploring far-flung terrains, or navigating the skies, the Citizen Promaster without question has a very-capable watch for the job. But given the sheer amount of watches in Citizen’s catalog, their bread and butter remains within their collection of dive watches. Sure, you’ll find a straight-forward steel black dial diver, it’s a must for any watch brand. But just like how you’ll find fish in the ocean, you can also expect to discover a handful of eccentric divers with inquisitive case silhouettes and lume dials that’ll keep up with any bioluminescent organism in the dark. Citizen’s new addition to the Promaster Dive Automatic collection leans more into its marine animal namesake, the “Fugu” which in Japanese, translates to “pufferfish,” with its new dial texture, caseback emblem and a couple of case updates. Now it’s going to be obvious that I’ve used this introduction for Citizens Promaster Dive Automatic novelties as an excuse to learn more about the pufferfish, so be prepared for some facts about the well-known Tetraodontidae family member. That said, let’s dig right into the updates to the case, shall we? The three new Citizen divers are now fitted with a sapphire crystal and a 120-click unidirectional bezel. With the insert still made out of aluminum, Citizen has changed the bezel system to offer higher timing precision during diving scenarios such as ...

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New Rolex Day-Date 36 model go old-school and very funky Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date 36 model go Mar 31, 2023

New Rolex Day-Date 36 model go old-school and very funky

If the bubbly Oyster Perpetual wasn’t quite whimsical enough for you, or was not the right type of colourful – Rolex has got you covered. Introduced in two new variants, it revives the funky stone dials of the 1970s and fully enters the realm of quirky with high-end champlevé enamel dials – emojis and inspirational … ContinuedThe post New Rolex Day-Date 36 model go old-school and very funky appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Pairing the Tudor Pelagos 39 & the Rolex Submariner 14060M Worn & Wound
Tudor Pelagos 39 & Feb 21, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Pairing the Tudor Pelagos 39 & the Rolex Submariner 14060M

As much as I advocate for expanding your boundaries when it comes to the type of watches you experience, most of our time is spent in the middle of our lane. These are the comfort food of watches, the sweet spot you keep coming back to. For me, these are typically simple divers or tool watches, the archetype of which is of course the Submariner. Not very exciting, but a great everyday companion that’s easy to use and read, with an uncanny ability to pair with pretty much any outfit or look. Plenty of other watches fall into the category as well, but the Submariner sets the bar, and does so particularly well in the form of the reference 14060M. Where more modern references have veered ever so slightly into “it needs to make a statement” territory, there is a humbleness that remains within the 14060, if ever a word could be applied to a Submariner.  The peculiar vibe of the 14060 may be absent within the present catalog of Rolex sports watches, but that doesn’t mean it’s not out there in other more modern watches. In fact, you don’t have to stray far from the family to find such a candidate. Tudor has managed to capture a lot of the charm of early Rolex references in recent years, and one in particular strikes me as a perfect embodiment of what I love about 5 digit Subs, and that is the Pelagos 39. When this watch was introduced I referred to it as the modern Sub we never got, and expanded on that in my full review of the watch. I’ve since welcomed a P39 into ...

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Baume & Mercier Finally Debuts an Interesting Watch SJX Watches
Baume & Mercier Feb 10, 2022

Baume & Mercier Finally Debuts an Interesting Watch

After several years of drift – and a low-priced, Kickstarter-type watch – Baume & Mercier has finally returned with something surprisingly interesting. Based on the brand’s trademark oblong watch, the Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” is based on reproduces a work by the titular French artist on its dial in textured, three-dimensional relief. With the dial pattern apparent only up close and the case entirely in matte black, the aesthetic is strikingly low key. Like Mr Soulages’ best known works, the dial relies on texture, direction, and the absence of colour, although concessions are made for branding and time telling. Initial thoughts Though some of its ladies’ watches do well in certain markets, Baume & Mercier (B&M;) has had a difficult recent history. While cycling through several chief executives, the brand also launched a great variety of products over the period, but none of them really caught on. But now it has created something unexpected. The concept is straightforward – a dial that recreates a work of art – but it still manages to be original and unusual. Despite its simplicity, the watch manages to capture the artist’s spirit on a tiny canvas. The monochrome finish and emphasis on texture is exactly what Mr Soulages himself is famous for. The retail price of a bit under US$6,000 is pretty steep for a time-only watch powered by a stock ETA 2892, but several factors count in its favour. One is the intrinsic appeal of the watch, and another...

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Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers - The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Open Feb 7, 2022

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers - The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Open to watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from anywhere in the world, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is an annual affair that seeks to identify the most promising watchmakers of the future. Interestingly, any candidate who has “must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction” can participate, whether or not he or she has formal training. A candidate can enter any type of timepiece – last year’s winner was 29-year old Mario Scarpatetti, whose entry was a longcase clock with a patented secular perpetual calendar mechanism of his own invention. The Kalendar Perpeten clock made by last year’s winner, Mario Scarpatetti Mr Scarpatetti won a CHF20,000 grant sponsored by Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, which is once again the prize for the YTC 2022. The winner will the selected by a jury of industry notables that include Francois-Paul Journe himself, Philippe Dufour, and Giulio Papi, who will make their choice according to four criteria: originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on fpjourne.com.  

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The Horological Reason Behind The Rise Of The Super SUVs (Satire) - Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 23, 2022

The Horological Reason Behind The Rise Of The Super SUVs (Satire) - Reprise

There was a time when the walls of many children's rooms were decorated with images of iconic supercars cars like the Ferrari Testarossa, Porsche 959, Lamborghini Countach, and McLaren F1. Today those same walls in the rooms of a new generation of kids are decorated by a completely different type of car: the super SUV. Martin Green explains why in this satirical editorial.

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co. Time+Tide
Oct 11, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co.

What constitutes the ultimate tool watch for you? Should the case be made of durable materials? Do you want a movement that’s robust, reliable and easy to service? Should the size be small enough so it’s not prone to daily encounters with a door jam? It’s these type of questions that Tool Watch Co. (I … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Field Collection elevates the humble field watch to new heights Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Field Collection elevates Oct 9, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Field Collection elevates the humble field watch to new heights

In all my years of collecting, there is one type of watch pretty much everyone enjoys. The field watch. Its a watch that dates back to a time of conflict and bravery; times when the lives of many depended on it’s legibility and accuracy. That historical importance, coupled with its relative affordability are two of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Field Collection elevates the humble field watch to new heights appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Grand Seiko SBGZ007 is a masterpiece that evokes the starry skies of Japan Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGZ007 Jun 25, 2021

The Grand Seiko SBGZ007 is a masterpiece that evokes the starry skies of Japan

Masterpiece is a strong label. It’s not something to be taken lightly. Many of us in the watch journalism game get rightly chastised for throwing around terms such as ‘iconic’ willy-nilly. But with Grand Seiko, and their Masterpiece Collection, I can type with full confidence that their creations live up to the classification. These watches … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGZ007 is a masterpiece that evokes the starry skies of Japan appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: Everything you need in a watch from the Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGN019 May 11, 2021

VIDEO: Everything you need in a watch from the Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021

It’s tough to find a watch that does everything that you want. The checklist of things you’d ideally have can be pretty long sometimes, whether it’s water resistance, functionality, size, material or the type of strap that it arrives on. But when you do find a watch that ticks most, if not all, of the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Everything you need in a watch from the Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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You voted on your favourite Fantasy Watch Collection 10K and the winner is… Time+Tide
Oct 31, 2020

You voted on your favourite Fantasy Watch Collection 10K and the winner is…

The people have spoken, and it is clear that within the Fantasy Watch Collection 10K I was the people’s champion. I take great pride in my victory, listening to Queen’s “We Are the Champions” as I type this story. But I recognise I could not have won without your support, and thank you, the readers, … ContinuedThe post You voted on your favourite Fantasy Watch Collection 10K and the winner is… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe Parmigiani Jul 8, 2020

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection

Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390. A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar. Tondagraph GT Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché. Initial thoughts The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions. Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good a...

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