An Attainable Japanese Independent Every Collector Should Know
An authorized retailer of watches from TUDOR, Grand Seiko, OMEGA and more, Teddy Baldassarre is your destination to learn watches and discover your next watch.
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An authorized retailer of watches from TUDOR, Grand Seiko, OMEGA and more, Teddy Baldassarre is your destination to learn watches and discover your next watch.
Worn & Wound
Wren, the watch brand founded by Wrist Enthusiast’s Craig Karger, has released a new version of their Diver One in collaboration with Ben Cook, founder of the Ben’s Watches platform, which you’ve almost certainly seen if you’ve logged into TikTok or Instagram recently and have even a remote interest in watches (he was also recently on the Worn & Wound podcast). This is actually the pair’s second collaboration, a natural extension of the first, which casts the dynamic orange dial they debuted last year in a different light. The Diver One Obsidian’s standout feature is its unique orange fume dial, which like other watches in the Wren lineup has a mostly classic dive watch layout with large lumed circular and triangular indices. Karger has a knack for choosing interesting, evocative colors for his divers, and the orange here looks great and feels very much in the tradition of other classic orange dialed divers from Doxa and Seiko, among others. The Obsidian gets its name from the DLC treated case and bracelet, creating a dark backdrop for the brightly colored dial. The Diver One measures 41mm in diameter and a little over 13mm thick. At 47mm from lug to lug, it exists in a well understood sweet spot for modern dive watch sizing. The shape of the case makes these watches wear a bit smaller than the measurement in my experience – it’s all very ergonomic and has case lines that will successfully hug most wrists. The watch presents very differently depending...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, it’s time to look back at some of the most surprising releases of the first half of 2026. Every year, there are several watch releases we didn’t see coming. Or even if we did, they turned out to be so much better than we could have ever expected. For […] Visit The Top 5 Surprising Releases Of The First Half Of 2026 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
As summer in the northern hemisphere arrives, we approach the season of the year when Swiss watchmakers take their Vacances horlogères – a tradition since 1937 where workshops shut down in late July and early August for a three-week break. Of course, when Geneva Watch Days comes around, the industry is ramped back up into … Continued
Monochrome
While the Luminor and Radiomir are the two most emblematic collections of Panerai, both solidly rooted in the brand’s heritage and modelled after historical models, there’s a third collection that has increased its presence in recent years: the Submersible. The brand’s vision of a proper dive watch, equipped with all the necessary features you’ll need […]
SJX Watches
One of the leading names in movement development, Concepto marks its 20th year in 2026. Concepto’s founder, Valérien Jaquet, has led the company since its founding in 2006, advised by his father, Jean-Pierre Jaquet, a fabled watch entrepreneur with a controversial history. Now a vertically integrated manufacture capable of creating and producing almost every part of a watch, Concepto is one of the rare handful of movement suppliers that have survived and prospered over the economic cycles of the watch industry. Some of its peers have gone bust, like Christophe Claret, while others, like La Fabrique du Temps, have been acquired by the industry’s giants. From left: Valérien Jaquet, Jean-Pierre Jaquet, and Jacob Arabo. Image – Concepto The company released a statement for its 20th anniversary that reveals some interesting facts about a little-known but crucial aspect of the industry — the specialist suppliers that feed watch brands with movements. Concepto remains a family business boasting some impressive numbers: according to the company, last year’s sales exceeded CHF60 million while output was some 30,000 movements, including about 1,100 tourbillon calibres. According to Concepto, its client list exceeds 100 brands. The list includes names large and small — the firm helped Bulgari set the record for the world’s thinnest tourbillon, while Jacob & Co. tapped Concepto for the V-16 engine automaton in the Bugatti Tourbillon wristwatch. Even Bugatti itself turn...
Monochrome
The TAG Heuer Monaco is a watch with a rather interesting history, as we explored in this Evergreen article. The watch, introduced in 1969, was a true vessel for innovation at Heuer, not only due to its daring square design but also the integration within this case of one of the earliest automatic chronograph movements, […]
Worn & Wound
As Christopher Ward has grown in stature in recent years, it’s their most ambitious watches that have resonated the most with me, personally. Nothing against the Sealanders, Tridents, and the like, but the brand has really become interesting to me with watches like the Bel Canto and the Loco, and even the more artistic, design forward stuff like the C1 Moonphase. The Twelve collection falls into a middle ground, of sorts. The Loco, their most avant-garde watch, is built on the Twelve platform, but at its core it’s a fairly straightforward (though incredibly well made) integrated bracelet sports watch, something the hobby is not exactly in short supply of these days. But they occasionally stretch the bounds of the Twelve, exploring a variety of materials, ultra-thin case designs, and even finishing techniques. And that brings us to the latest release from the UK based brand, the all new The Twelve Xander, a 150 piece limited edition made in collaboration with The Dial Artist, otherwise known as Chris Alexander. Chris has been expanding his portfolio as of late, after getting his start in the watch world adding custom, graffiti inspired art to off-the-shelf watches. He’s now an in-demand collaborator, having worked with brands like Holthinrichs on completely original dial designs and executions. What makes this new project somewhat different is that there’s no actual “dial” for The Dial Artist to paint. The Twelve X is fully skeletonized, so Chris has added h...
SJX Watches
Citizen’s, quirky, star-struck brand is back with a pair of limited edition Eco-Drive complications — the Campanola Kōjō ref. BU0020-71N in stainless steel with blue dial, and the blacked-out ref. BU0024-02N, inspired by shooting stars. Campanola’s sculptural approach to dials is alive and well, proving Citizen’s ongoing technical leadership in the field of solar-powered watches. Initial thoughts Launched in the year 2000, Campanola is an astronomically inclined sub-brand of Citizen Watch Co., contending with Seiko’s Astron and Casio’s Oceanus collection in the premium multi-function solar quartz segment, but with a more refined aesthetic. In the last decade, the brand has branched out into mechanical watches which maintained the Campanola design language and external quality — the Kasanekyo 20th Anniversary limited edition features one of my favourite raden dials. However, some of the brand’s mechanical watches were arguably diminished by the use of generic Swiss automatic movements like the Sellita SW300-1, which was paired with a Jaquet big-date module in the aforementioned Kasanekyo 20th Anniversary limited edition. This limited edition duo is a return to form for the brand, with complicated Eco-Drive calibres that offer the full Campanola experience, as well as better value. Of course, that comes with the usual tradeoffs, namely a 14.8 mm case height. That is mitigated by the rather wide 43.5 mm case diameter, which makes the height proportionally r...
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton (LV) has taken the covers off its latest unique Escale Autour du Monde pocket watch — the Escale en Alaska is the most complicated Escale pocket watch yet, including both a minute repeater and a tourbillon along with nine dial-side animations. Initial thoughts Possibly more than any other so-called ‘fashion brand’, LV excels in creativity and world-building, which has only become more stylish, whimsical and nuanced. The Escale en Alaska exemplifies this development, and demonstrates the breadth of artistic crafts practised by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Translating as ‘Stopovers Around the World’, the Escale Autour du Monde collection embodies the expressive flair of a leading fashion house — something many traditional watch brands simply can’t match. Following LV’s previous Escale pocket watches celebrating the beauty of Mount Fuji and the Pont-Neuf in Paris, the brand’s latest creation has looked north for inspiration, this time celebrating the desolate beauty of Alaskan glaciers and their exotic inhabitants. Arctic artistry The term ‘fashion watch’ is often used pejoratively to describe a watch with no real watchmaking value that trades solely off the fashion name, but watches like Escale en Alaska transcend this categorisation. The Escale Autour du Monde is a double-sided pocket watch with animated jacquemarts on one side and an exposed movement with an inverted hand stack on the other. The latter is unchanged from that of previous e...
Worn & Wound
Sure, we talk at length about what makes that perfect summer watch. Bright colors, comfortable straps, some water resistance for a splash in the pool. But what about the rest of your EDC? What’s going on there? The second I get home from work, the first order of business is to throw on a pair of shorts, and the last thing I want is a ton of junk in my pockets flopping around. Actually carrying your EDC is the hardest part. Putting together your ideal kit can be easy, but without consideration into how you’re carrying it is where we fall short. You can’t deny the utility of a full-sized Leatherman Wave, but that thing slamming you in the kneecap when free-floating in the less-than-ideal pocket of your Patagonia Baggies is a bummer. Today, we’re taking a look at some lightweight EDC essentials that I’ve been carrying around for the beginning of the summer along with a few tips and tricks to lessen the load in your pockets and enjoy the warm weather. Sunglasses: Ombraz Classics Ombraz takes a completely different approach to how you wear sunglasses. I’m a lifelong glasses wearer, and I’ve always just accepted that glasses have arms and that’s that. I would rather lose my glasses in the ocean and drive home blind than wear a croaky, so I’ve always been left to just hope for the best and that the prescription in my backup pair isn’t too out of date to drive in. Ombraz are unique in that they ditch the arms and integrate a strap right into the design of the...
Hodinkee
Founded in 1866, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. Originally founded as a guild for working watchmakers, these days, it's a not-for-profit organization "dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education", and is highly respected by both watch hobbyists and the broader industry for its efforts in this regard. In 2016, HSNY launched its Traveling Education program, which has become one of its best-known offerings both in the United States and beyond. These weekend half-day classes, taught by HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers, cover everything that the Society's typical individual NYC evening classes cover. In these classes, students will work on a complete mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. HODINKEE is a long-time supporter of the HSNY, which is why HODINKEE Australia & New Zealand is very proud to announce that these award-winning classes are on the road again — and this time, they're heading to Australia, and we're hosting them. HSNY is visiting Melbourne from October 30 to November 1, hosted by our friends at Time+Tide, and Sydney from November 21 to 22, 2026, hosted by yours truly. This is only the second time HSNY has brought its classes Down Under (the last time being in 2020), so this is a rare and highly anticipated opportunity. While I'm sure some Aussie watch collectors have had...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Breitling Navitimer Automatic GMT is a broadly appealing travel watch, here we review it with original photos, analysis, and price.
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Wetzlar, Germany, home of the legendary camera and lens maker, Leica. Of course, Leica isn't just an optics company. Since 2015, it's been on a new mission to create watches as well, a project initiated by Leica's controlling shareholder, Dr. Andreas Kaufmann, who is not only passionate about cameras and photography, but also timepieces. Henrik Ekdahl wearing a Leica watch and using a Leica camera in 1996 (left) during his first stint with the brand, and in 2024 (right) wearing a newer model Leica watch, after rejoining the company as head of watches and accessories. (Photo courtesy Leica) The person in charge of Leica's nascent watch ambitions is Henrik Ekdahl, a convivial Swede who has returned to Leica after more than two decades away, spent in the executive ranks of automakers, and, most recently, watchmakers such as IWC. Leica's connection to watchmaking is not unwarranted. Ernst Leitz, the company's founder, studied watchmaking in Neuchâtel in the 1860s. It was partly this mechanical know-how that allowed him to begin producing optical instruments, including microscopes and cameras, in Germany and to create the foundation for the company that would become Leica. The latest iteration of Leica watches, launched in 2022, is currently distributed only at Leica stores and online. Less than 5,000 watches are currently being produced each year by the brand, but Ekdahl says the watch division has ambitions to grow and make fu...
Fratello
Usually, watches are all about perfect symmetry and flawless finishing. The case is often round with even lugs, and carefully applied mirror polishing and brushing are combined to create contrast and accentuate the watch’s shape. Things are a little different with the new Anoma A1 Prehistoric, though. Of course, it already starts with its signature […] Visit Handmade Imperfections Turn The Anoma A1 Prehistoric Into A Beautiful, Wearable Timekeeping Sculpture to read the full article.
Monochrome
The 02Series was Studio Underd0g’s “difficult second album”. Introduced in 2023 after the success of the brand’s colourful chronographs, it took a different route, reinterpreting the classic field watch through the British brand’s typically playful lens. Inspired by a theoretical 1945 Ministry of Defence brief and the famous Dirty Dozen watches, the collection paired compact […]
SJX Watches
Being able to tap the collections of fabled museums like the Louvre, Vacheron Constantin recently revealed the second instalment of Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations. The collection once again comprises four watches inspired by the ancient world, spanning Assyria to the Roman Empire: Buste d’Akhénaton, Lamassu de Sargon II, Athéna de Velletrie, and Tiber de l’Iseum Campense. Each watch essentially contains a miniature replica of a statue from the Louvre that is surrounded by decoration in a variety of techniques ranging from enamelling to stone mosaic. Buste d’Akhénaton inspired by Ancient Egypt Initial thoughts VC rolls out a well-stocked Metiers d’Art collection every year, and the appeal is varied. The good ones, however, are great, usually combining multiple decorative techniques, artful aesthetic execution, and tremendous appeal. Boosting its Metiers d’Art programme, VC has inked agreements with world-class museums like the Louvre and the Met, which allow the brand to source inspiration from the vast troves of objects housed in these institutions. All of that is captured in the latest Tribute To Great Civilisations, which qualifies as amongst the best Metiers d’Art offerings from VC. Each of the watches in the quartet manages to evoke the civilisations and objects that served as inspiration. Tiber de l’Iseum Campense of the Roman Empire While striking from a distance, each watch still reveals an impressive degree of detail up close. Mos...
Worn & Wound
Rowing Blazers and Seiko have partnered on their fourth limited edition collection, and they’ve once again teamed up with vintage watch dealer Eric Wind on the design. This partnership has produced a number of hits since the first collaboration appeared in 2021, and it all comes down to an obvious synergy between the participants. Rowing Blazers, Seiko, and Wind each occupy distinct areas of watch and style culture, but they overlap in such a way that these watches make a ton of sense in context. The new limited edition consists of two watches, each limited to 2,500 pieces, and harkens a return to the Rally Diver format the partnership began with five years ago. Available in both 38mm and 42mm diameters, the new Rally Divers are based on a Seiko 5 design from the 1960s that Wind says was both his first vintage watch purchase and a reminder of his father’s chosen daily wear watches from Wind’s childhood. It underscores something anyone who has chatted with Eric Wind for even a moment likely understands pretty intuitively, which is that while he is known professionally for dealing in blue chip vintage watches from Rolex, Patek, and others, he’s no snob when it comes to the watches he personally enjoys. His love for Seiko and accessible vintage is genuine, and this collaborative relationship has never felt forced. The Rally Diver is defined by its checkerboard “rally” bezel, an idiosyncratic choice for a dive watch that doesn’t have an obvious connection to ...
Worn & Wound
They say good things come to those who wait. It’s almost a decade since Isotope launched their Rider Jumping Hour, and has introduced a variety of GMTs, dive watches, chronographs and dress watches since then, without revisiting one of my favorite complications. It feels like a couple of years ago that Isotope founder José Miranda began to tease the long awaited follow up to watch enthusiasts at events across the globe. Last August the OVNI Jumping Hour Founders Edition was finally unveiled to the world. The 150 Founders Edition watches sold out during the pre-order period, and now a production piece has landed on my desk. Since its inception, the OVNI has promised to be an other-worldly timepiece, from its name right through to its flying saucer form, and at first glance it hasn’t shied away from that aspiration. So, how easy is it to live with a UFO on your wrist? When talking about the OVNI, it makes sense to start with the case. Named OVNI (the Portuguese equivalent of Unidentified Flying Object is Objeto Voador Nãu Identificado), the body of the watch is designed to mimic the traditional flying saucer shape associated with UFOs throughout the years. Crafted from 904L stainless steel and given a brushed finish, the case is an oblate spheroid, slightly flatter on the back than the front. It resembles a perfect ball of steel that has been left out in the hot, hot sun. Smooth and organic, yet dense and alien. The lugs and crown are attached to the case rather than f...
Monochrome
The Divers Date is one of the most recognisable watches in the modern Oris collection, tracing its design inspiration back to the brand’s first dive-ready watch of 1965. For several years, this retro look was popularised by the Divers Sixty-Five, introduced in 2015 and offered in countless colours, materials and configurations. In 2024, however, Oris thoroughly […]
Deployant
I explored a new Japanese independent maison and the First Edition of their launch watch - the Nouvelle Chronometrie Montre Ordinaire.
Monochrome
The Zenith Defy Extreme is not a watch designed for discretion. This most radical interpretation of the brand’s high-frequency chronograph features an oversized architectural case with an openworked display and offers a spectacle of a central chronograph hand completing one rotation every second. Since the series was introduced, Zenith has produced quite a few bold […]
WatchAdvice
Hublot’s Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM is one of those watches that leave you in awe, combining neon sapphire brilliance with high-complication tourbillon watchmaking. What We Love The bold Yellow Neon SAXEM case completely transforms under different lighting. The skeletonised dial offers a beautifully balanced design that gives the watch real mechanical theatre. Few watches in watchmaking will command attention quite like this, especially in natural light. What We Don’t The 44mm case size wears better than expected, but it is still on the larger side. Even sapphire lovers may find the Yellow Neon SAXEM a lot to handle. A black structured strap option would let the case and dial take centre stage even more, while simultaneously reducing the overall ‘distinctive’ presence of the watch. Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Wearability: 8.0/10 Build Quality: 9.0/10 Few timepieces in the world of watchmaking can grab attention like a bright yellow-coloured watch. Now imagine adding a transparent sapphire case to the mix, and suddenly, you have something that becomes almost impossible to ignore on the wrist. That is exactly what we get with the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM. This is a watch that does not ask to be seen, but rather commands it the moment you see it. In that regard, this, in my opinion, is the kind of timepiece that perfectly encapsulates what Hublot is all about. Since the beginnin...
Time+Tide
They may be best known for their cameras, but the watch department at Leica is starting to get a lot of focus.
Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas collection traces its origins to the 222 of 1977, one of the key icons of the slim, integrated luxury sports watch genre alongside the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Ever evolving, the collection was relaunched as the Overseas in 1996 and entered its third phase in 2016. Now a well-established family of sporty, […]
SJX Watches
Singapore retailer The Hour Glass has announced the return of IAMWATCH, the retailer’s indie-focused watch fair, slated to take place November 12-15 at the Singapore Edition hotel, with public days November 13-15. The event comes two years after the successful inaugural edition, hinting at the possibility of a biennial format akin to that of Dubai Watch Week. Focused on independent watchmaking The inaugural 2024 event featured the biggest names in independent watchmaking, including foundational figures like Kari Voutilainen and Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, as well as the leading lights of the younger generation including Rexhep Rexhepi, Raúl Pagès, and Florian Bédat and Gaël Petermann. The second edition is set to be even larger, with more makers in attendance. Attendees can expect to encounter industry executives as well — Aurel Bacs, Jean Arnault, Max Büsser, and Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver attended the first edition. It’s also sure to be one of the year’s best opportunities for watch spotting — this Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial and “Gobbi” signature was seen at the event in 2024. The relaxed dress code explicitly encourages double wristing, so the chances of spotting a unicorn in the wild are doubled. IAMWATCH will be held at the Singapore Edition hotel. Admission is free and open to the public daily November 13-15, however, advance registration is required and it can be done online at Iamwatch.com.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Studio Underd0g 02SERIES (Gen2) delivers sleeker cases, extended power, and two new dial colors to the microbrand's field watch line.
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, British microbrand Studio Underd0g, known for its uniquely conceived and constructed dials, introduces the second-generation update to its 02Series time-only field watch-ish design. Though new dial colors kind of feel like the brand's major schtick, there are a few surprising changes this time around. First, and a change that's sure to appeal to everyone, is a slight reduction in the case height of the 02Series. It's not the craziest of reductions, going from 12mm to 11.5mm, but shaving off this much is still a welcome improvement, especially considering the case itself is 9.4mm without the pronounced crystal. The new case measures 37.5mm in diameter, with the new 11.5mm thickness and a 46mm lug-to-lug. Yes, the diameter has also increased by half a millimeter, but the revamped proportions should work well across a large variety of wrists. The tighter tolerances also mean that the dial is now closer to the crystal, and this was accomplished thanks to the brand's acquisition of assembly workshop Horologium, now transformed into Studio Underd0g's own in-house workshop, aptly titled The D0ghouse. The caliber inside has also received a subtle update—the Sellita SW210 has been replaced by the SW200-2 M Power+. It's a mouthful, but what that means is an extended power reserve, increased from 42 hours to 63 hours. But in keeping with the execution of the previous generation, the rotor is removed to keep this second-generation manually wound. Across the four ...
Worn & Wound
Anoma has announced the latest version of the A1, their watch with a unique triangular shape that brand founder Matteo Violet Vianello says was inspired by a free-form table designed by Charlotte Perriand in the 1950s. There have been a variety of derivations of the original A1 design since it launched, and it’s been a surprisingly versatile canvas for a number of different ideas and points of reference. The thing I like most about the Anoma project, even more than the shape of the watch itself, which I like a lot, is that those ideas largely come from outside the watch world. This industry is filled with references to its own past, and sometimes new watches feel like fist bumps acknowledging and celebrating, well, themselves. It’s refreshing to see a brand celebrating an artistic world that extends beyond watches – it really expands the aperture on what’s possible in terms of design. Anoma’s latest, the appropriately named Prehistoric, was inspired by a visit to the Brancusi sculpture exhibition at the Centre Pompidou in Paris. The exhibition features primitive artifacts that Brancusi saw as the earliest examples of human creativity. The objects, such as arrow heads, axes, and other tools, got Vianello thinking about what is actually essential in design, and what is excessive. He was also influenced by the physicality of these objects, and how evidence of their making, the crude handwork, was still present thousands of years after their creation. The Prehist...
Hodinkee
What We Know Matteo Violet Vianello found the idea for his newest watch while standing in a room full of prehistoric tools. At the Centre Pompidou's Brancusi exhibition in Paris a couple of years back, Vianello, the man behind Anoma, saw the sculptor's collection of primitive tools and artifacts, which stopped him—and stayed with him. That visit became the starting point for the A1 Prehistoric, the latest limited run built on Anoma's signature triangular case. The case itself is hand-chiseled 316L stainless steel, a five-hour process undertaken by Steven Brunel, a French engraver whose work has been exhibited at the Louvre. Brunel works out of a workshop in Mornand-en-Forez, a village of about 500 people in the Loire region. The buckle receives the same treatment. Because the chiseling is done entirely by hand, Anoma says no two pieces will be identical. The dial carries the process further. Roughly 600 individual lines are cut by hand into a brass base in a sunburst pattern, then finished in a dark anthracite color meant to recall the look of worked stone or flint. Specs remain close to the standard A1: the case measures 39mm by 38mm, wearing closer to 37mm thanks to its lugless, triangular shape, with a 9.45mm thickness. Inside is the Swiss automatic Sellita SW100, the same movement Anoma has used across its lineup, running in a case rated to 50 meters of water resistance. The watch comes on a grey-grained Italian leather strap. Anoma will build 100 examples of the A1 ...
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