24,246 articles · 190 videos found · page 272 of 815
Quill & Pad
With auction prices soaring, it was a good time for an auction house to be offering rare timepieces by the world’s best independent watchmakers. And a 1999 Millennium wristwatch by George Daniels and Roger Smith offered in Bonhams' sale on June 16, 2021 set an auction record for a British-made wristwatch!
Time+Tide
Just like the Fast and Furious franchise, the Baselworld watch fair is refusing to die. That’s right, Baselworld 2022 is back, but it’s unlikely to be better than ever, or even a shadow of its former self. If you’re just joining the story now, it’s important you know the history behind the slow and agonising … ContinuedThe post Baselworld 2022 is back, but does anyone care any more? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Patek's latest technical tour-de-force comes in a collector-favorite case as well.
Hodinkee
We love both. But they’re not the same thing. And as HODINKEE begins to sell pre-owned, we offer this primer on the merits of each.
Hodinkee
“No one is ever satisfied where he is.” – Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, The Little Prince
SJX Watches
While known for unorthodox designs such as the Coin, Bubble and Admiral’s Cup, Corum’s piece de resistance is the Golden Bridge. Devised by independent watchmaker and ACHI co-founder Vincent Calabrese in 1980, the delicate, elongated movement remains a watchmaking feat. In 2011, Corum debuted the automatic Golden Bridge movement that was wound by an innovative weight that slid on rails. To celebrate the decade since that milestone, Corum has created the 10th Anniversary Golden Bridge Automatic, which puts the movement within a larger case with a wraparound sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts I’m not the biggest fan of Corum’s better known designs, which are often oversized and ostentatious. The exception is the Golden Bridge, which is to Corum what the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is to Girard-Perregaux – a movement defined by its construction and aesthetics. I’ve always liked the Golden Bridge – the baguette shape is not only unique, but also a mechanical marvel. The automatic Golden Bridge further stands out for its vertical winding mass, instead of a traditional rotor. My pick of the collection Starting at about US$35,000 in titanium, the 10th Anniversary Golden Bridge Automatic is actually rather well-priced, considering the movement. In fact, the new anniversary models are priced lower than their 2011 counterparts. The watch is available in either titanium or titanium and rose gold, along with diamond-set variants Smoked Sapphire Like the original...
Time+Tide
Mido are an oddity in the watch world. They’re not a mega-brand, being a subsidiary of Swatch Group towards the affordable end of the ladder, yet they still manage to be one of the few brands whose limited-edition releases can sell for well over their original retail price, as seen with the Ocean Star Decompression … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Mido Ocean Star Tribute is a rugged diver that punches well above its pay grade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Marco Lang has always been a watchmaker with a lot of ideas. And a lot of energy. And so he put his ideas and motivation to good use for the premier timepiece of his solo independent brand: the new Zweigesicht-1 features a reversible case, two faces, and an innovative new indication that tracks shocks.
Quill & Pad
Innovations and complications are what makes A. Lange & Söhne watches tick. Here, Anthony de Haas, head of product development at A. Lange & Söhne, discusses pushing limits and taking watchmaking to the next level with journalist Gisbert Brunner and SJX, founder of Watches by SJX, in a conversation presented by Dr. Carl Naughton.
Time+Tide
Paris, Haute Couture and summer on the French Riviera – France has elegance ingrained into its very soul. Wrist-worn style is something we are used to seeing from both Cartier and Chanel, while Hermès has evolved into a serious horological prospect – take their sporty H8-series this year. But for the more budget-conscious, there is … ContinuedThe post The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Wei Koh gives us his thoughts and goes hands with Cartier’s 2021 collection of Tank Must - including the Solarbeat version - the Louis Cartier and the Cloche de Cartier trio in yellow gold, pink gold and platinum.
SJX Watches
Organised by the Automobile Club de Monaco (ACM), the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique is an annual classic-car race that traditionally takes place before the city’s Formula 1 Grand Prix. As the official timekeeper of the event, TAG Heuer is marking this year’s race with the Monaco Green Dial. A facelifted variant of its iconic square chronograph, the new Monaco features a gradient-green dial that’s a first for the Monaco, but an exceptionally common colour this year. Initial thoughts Arguably the iconic Heuer chronograph by virtue of its unmistakeable 1970s style, the Monaco was introduced in 1969 in honour of the Monaco Grand Prix. An unusual combination of a water-resistant, automatic chronograph with a square case, the Monaco remains the brand’s most recognisable timepiece. While the choice of a green dial may feel modish – dials in this shade seem endless this year even though it’s only April – it is nevertheless well executed. The smoked, metallic finish lends the watch a more nuanced look that separates it from most watches with a green dial. It might not be novel, but I’ve seen the new Monaco in the metal and it is one of the more attractive green dials that I’ve seen to date. While the remake of the original Monaco ref. 1133 “Steve McQueen” would be my pick from the Monaco lineup – I appreciate its historically-faithful design – the new Monaco in green is a great option for someone seeking a more contemporary watch that still possesse...
Revolution
On the occasion of the prestigious Grand Prix de Monaco Historique 2021 edition, TAG Heuer is releasing a limited edition of their beloved Monaco: the TAG Heuer Monaco Green Dial
Revolution
Wei Koh runs us through the freshly announced Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar, along with the 6119 Calatrava “Clous de Paris”, the steel 4947/1A Annual Calendar and, of course, the end of series 5711 with the olive green dial.
Time+Tide
There was no time for rest after the epic week that was Watches & Wonders and new releases from the crème de la crème of the Swiss watch industry. The Australian half of the T+T team were in the air on the way to sunny Sydney, to host our first Time+Tide Club event for 2021. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Parties, panthers and patina appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched alongside the affordable Tank Must in steel at Watches & Wonders 2021, the Tank Louis Cartier is a limited-production that’s the flagship model of the new Tank offerings. Featuring an Art Deco “sector” dial modelled on a style found on the Les Must de Cartier Tank of the 1980s, the Tank Louis Cartier (or Tank LC) combines an 18k gold case with the in-house, hand-wind 1917 MC movement. Initial thoughts The Tank LC is the perhaps quintessential Tank, and the new version is one of the most compelling in recent years, both in design and the fact that it’s mechanical (most have been quartz). The new model is practically identical in size to what was historically the “large” Tank LC. That means a case that’s 33.7 mm by 25.5 mm, and 6.60 mm high. It’s relatively small by modern standards, but the size works well as a formal-dress watch under a cuff, though it would look out of place with casual wear. In fact, it excels as a formal watch that is a little more interesting, thanks to the dial design and colours. The Art Deco dial is simple but striking, and appealing in both design and colour. The only shortcoming is a historical one – it was originally found on the inexpensive Les Must de Cartier Tank, while this is clearly a high-end timepiece. At US$13,100, the new Tank LC is relatively affordable as such things go, which makes it a strong contender for a formal watch that’s a bit more lively. Classic Tank The new Tank LC is offered in two guises ...
SJX Watches
Having made its debut 15 years ago, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier is an upstart by the Parisian jeweller’s standards – the Santos and Tank, for example, are both over a century old. But the Ballon Bleu was an instant hit, thanks to its classically round case with a quirky and captivating crown, making it one of the brand’s best sellers. Now a new size has joined the line up, the Ballon Bleu 40 mm powered by the in-house 1847 MC automatic movement. It sits in between the 36 mm medium and 42 mm large automatic models, neither too big nor too small for current tastes (Cartier already has a 40 mm that is hand-wind). The new 40 mm automatic also incorporates a practical upgrade: the brand’s proprietary quick-release system for the bracelet and strap. And finally, the new size also includes new dials in a simpler, metallic finish – in either blue and grey – giving it a more contemporary look. The most traditional of the Ballon Bleu variants with a silver guilloche dial Initial thoughts The Ballon Bleu is over a decade old but still attractive in a timeless manner that Cartier’s classic designs always manage to be. But it’s unusual among the brand’s best-known watch designs. While the signature Tank and Santos watches are characterised by straight, hard lines, the Ballon is a made up of spheres and domes of varied sizes – the crown, case, crystal and even the case back are all lightly rounded, giving it a pebble-like feel that’s a little organic. Given the B...
Time+Tide
What’s better than one complicated Cartier? Three complicated Cartiers, especially when they arrive in a specially designed marquetery finished and lacquered wooden box. These three pieces that make up the new Cartier Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”, which share the two uniting themes of mystery and skeletonisation. But in a world where the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers three platinum tourbillons in skeletonised form appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Le Rhöne delights with a stunning Grande Phase De Lune timepiece that captures the arresting beauty of a clear night’s sky
SJX Watches
Although the most classic – and simple – of Cartier wristwatches designs have lately enjoyed resurgent popularity, the jeweller still makes exceptionally complicated watches. Its latest is not one but is a three-part set, the Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”. All three watches are amongst the brand’s flagship complications that go beyond design and into the realm of ingenious and unusual watchmaking. And the trio share a common theme of the mysterious display and tourbillon, fusing an optic illusion that is synonymous with Cartier and the rotating regulator. The Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon with a jade cabochon on the crown Initial thoughts Each of the watches in the set is special for how it combines Cartier’s traditional design with intriguing technical details. Although the movements are modern in style – the skeleton bridges have a dark grey finish – the designs remain classical. And the streamlined, “mysterious” construction of the movements belie the complexity of their construction. But the movements are unquestionably appealing, both in concept and execution. A curious mind might ponder how the mechanics seemingly float within the case. It’s an old trick that makes it seem like there is no connection between the movement and the case, but a good one that still has visual impact. While the details of the watches are elegant, all of them are huge. The smallest of the trio is 43.5 mm in diameter, and the larges...
SJX Watches
Legendary for being the first man to reach the North Pole solo, Naomi Uemura (1941-1984) was an explorer who notched up several expeditionary feats before disappearing in 1984. Amongst his achievements was a solo, sled-dog run from Greenland to Alaska in 1976 – a two-year, 12,500 km journey – in preparation for climbing Vinson Massif, Antarctica’s highest peak. It was on this trip that Uemura wore a Seiko ref. 6105, the “turtle” diver launched in 1970 that has since become one of Seiko’s best known dive watches thanks to the distinctive case shape. Uemura disappeared in winter 1984 whilst descending the Denali – after successfully reaching the peak – never to be seen again. February 2020 would be his 80th birthday had he lived. To commemorate his life, Seiko has introduced the Prospex The 1970’s Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation modelled on the ref. 6105 worn by Uemura and available in two variants, the limited-edition SLA049 and the regular-production SLA051. The Seiko ref. 6105 of 1970 worn by Uemura during his 1976 solo sled-dog run Initial thoughts Seiko loves limited editions – a trio of Prospex models for its 140th anniversary was just announced – and the limited editions are often facelifts of existing models. To an extent, that remains true. The new SLA049 looks very similar to the SPB183 – nicknamed the “Captain Willard” by enthusiasts after the character who wore on in Apocalypse Now – that was released late last year. Like the...
SJX Watches
With 2021 being its 140th anniversary, Seiko is going all out to commemorate the milestone. Getting an early start with the first anniversary edition announced last year, the Japanese watchmaker kicked off the series with a Grand Seiko in rose gold, followed by a revival of the King Seiko. Now it has just announced a trio of Prospex dive watches, made up of a pair of automatics (SLA047 and SPB207), and a solar-powered chronograph (SSC807). Inspired by Iriomote Island – a popular spot for recreational diving – the new Prospex watches feature vibrant, metallic green dials meant to evoke the lush landscape of the island in Okinawa. Initial thoughts The anniversary divers are good value for money, as most Seiko watches are, and also have the bonus of an appealing dial colour. But as is often the case with newer Seiko limited edition models, each of the new divers is merely one of many similar editions, which makes them less special individually. The priciest model is the Prospex Automatic Diver’s SLA047, a Marinemaster 300 m diver based on the Hi-Beat diver of 1968. A top-of-the-line dive watch, the SLA047 is powered by the 8L35, essentially a simpler version of the 9S55 Grand Seiko movement. And like Seiko’s other high-end mechanical watches, it is produced in the Shizukuishi facility, which is also home to the workshop for mechanical Grand Seiko watches. Other highlights include a 300 m water-resistance rating thanks in part to an unusual monocoque case, and a ce...
SJX Watches
With Seiko marking its 140th anniversary in 2021, a slew of commemorative editions are expected – the brand already got the ball rolling last year with a King Seiko and Grand Seiko. Now the anniversary line up gets something more affordable, the Presage Sharp Edged Series 140th Anniversary (SPB205). Limited to 4,000 pieces, the SPB205 is inspired by dawn in Tokyo, explaining the gold highlights on the dial set against an all-black case and bracelet, a first for the Presage series, which typically sticks to more traditional polished steel. Initial thoughts The Presage line is well liked for its variety of intriguing dial finishes at affordable prices. One of its sub-lines, the Sharp Edged Series, features a motif known as asanoha – which translates as “hemp leaf” – a geometric pattern traditionally found on clothing, that shimmers in the light thanks to its textured surface. The SPB205 might just be the most striking of the series to date. The gold indices and hands contrast beautifully against the graduated, brown-black dial, which adds a layer of subtlety to the asanoha texture, unlike earlier models featuring more obvious renditions in brighter colours. With its wide lugs and contrast finish on the bracelet, the SPB205 bears more than a passing resemblance to pricier Grand Seiko models. But it has a price tag of US$1,150, making the SPB205 compelling as a package – the dial, finishing, and blacked-out case. Though priced US$150 higher than the earlier vers...
SJX Watches
An evolution of the 27.01, the brand’s original extra-flat watch, the Ming 27.02 is a gentle redesign, retaining the same svelte case and movement, but incorporating a sapphire dial that has a gradient finish that sits on a clous de Paris guilloché ring around its perimeter – albeit at a substantially higher price. The 27.02 also marks the end of the 27 series; Ming “will be retiring the [series] permanently” once its production is complete. Initial thoughts The fact that Ming watches sell out swiftly upon launch attests to the popularity of its watches. So it is perhaps inevitable that the brand is gradually increasing the prices of its watches – albeit with upgrades to the product – as it repositions itself as a more upmarket brand. While the brand’s inaugural 17 series was well liked for being outstanding value – they were mostly under 1,500 Swiss francs – the 27.02 and recent launches like the Diver 18.01 indicate that Ming’s “budget” days seem to be well over. I find the 27.02 to be a fine, handsome watch, with a design that’s quintessentially Ming. The smoked sapphire dial is clever, with its gradient finish making the watch visually intriguing, creating a sense of visual depth that belies its thinness. Nevertheless, the 27.02 is very much the same watch as the 27.01 (which in turn was an upgraded derivative of the 17 series). Both share the exact same case and movement – an ETA Peseux 7001 that has been significantly reworked by Sc...
Time+Tide
Well. I don’t know if Nicki Minaj saw my recent story about six unexpected watch spots, which included Cristiano Ronaldo Jr. wearing his father’s Rolex – the most expensive one for sale at retail today. But it seems I may have been a little hasty in proclaiming Ronaldo Jr. the junior #wristgame champion. I genuinely believed … ContinuedThe post Nicki Minaj’s three-month-old son rocks a diamond-encrusted Nautilus worth $400K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I may sound mad to anyone not consumed with a boggle-eyed obsession for watches. But as many of you know, the watches that get away can hurt just as much to talk about as a failed relationship. In the dazed aftermath, processing your heartache often requires some long and painful soul-searching. How can you ever … ContinuedThe post Grief, frustration and regret: The watches that got away… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Henriot is an interesting winemaker that often sneaks in under the radar, which is surprising as it produces champagnes of exquisite quality. The Henriot range comprises the NV Brut Souverain, an NV Blanc de Blancs, a Rosé, a vintage Brut, a vintage Rosé, the prestige champagne Hemera, and an outlier, Cuve 38. Ken Gargett pours himself a few glasses, reports here, and calls it a job well done.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer’s Monaco has experienced a rather slow evolution in recent years, as the world’s most famous square watch shouldn’t be messed with too much. The new black dial TAG Heuer Monaco on bracelet is a further exploration into the watch’s roots, while keeping up to date with all the technical quality we expect from … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Watches on bracelets are always better and this TAG Heuer Monaco is proof appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s not really a stretch to say that after a slow, weird, stymied kind of year we are off to the races. Last week we launched the third edition of NOW Magazine, which has kept us run off our feet this week sending out copies to enthusiastic watch lovers around the world. This week, we … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Here’s the reason we just released two watches with George Bamford instead of one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Soon after the very first of the Simplicity 20th Anniversary sold for a record US$1.51 million, Philippe Dufour revealed that Lebanese watch collector and gem merchant Claude Sfeir will now be his exclusive retailer worldwide. Historically selling direct to clients but also represented by a handful of retailers around the world, most notably Shellman in Tokyo, Mr Dufour has now streamlined his distribution. Having known Mr Dufour for some 40 years, Mr Sfeir will handle the sale of the 20 Simplicity 20th Anniversary watches, as well as whatever timepieces Mr Dufour may debut in the future. With Mr Dufour himself keeping the last of the 21 anniversary timepieces, the first 10 examples will be sold direct to clients. While not revealing the specifics of the allocation process, Mr Sfeir noted during a phone conversation he hoped to that the watches would be evenly distributed around the world. The last 10 watches will be allocated in a lottery that will take place in Switzerland. It will be a formal event, with a huissier de justice – an officer of the court in Switzerland – serving as a witness. According to Mr Sfeir, the restructuring of the distribution will not only help Mr Dufour build a more commercially sustainable business, but also ensure the Dufour brand name can continue into the next generation. Mr Sfeir also let on that Mr Dufour’s daughter, Daniela, is almost done with her watchmaking education. She will join Mr Dufour at the bench at the end of 2020, o...
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