Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Longines Hydroconquest (Live Pics)
The refresh takes the cleaner design established in the Hydroconquest GMT and brings it to the line's classic dive watch, along with a few interesting additions.
22,449 articles · 223 videos found · page 275 of 756
Hodinkee
The refresh takes the cleaner design established in the Hydroconquest GMT and brings it to the line's classic dive watch, along with a few interesting additions.
Monochrome
Born in 2007, the HydroConquest is Longines‘ classic 300m, modern dive watch. While the Legend Diver is there to evoke the past, the HydroConquest is meant to be a contemporary offering, mixing strong diving credentials with a daily-oriented, sleek design. Until now, we’ve come to know the watch in this form here, when it benefited […]
Monochrome
The BR-05 was introduced in 2019 in 40mm as Bell & Ross’s answer to the luxury integrated bracelet sports watch trend, translating the BR-01’s cockpit instrument looks into a more contemporary, everyday design. In tune with contemporary trends for more compact, unisex diameters, Bell & Ross presented a 36mm version in 2025. The latest BR-05 […]
Worn & Wound
We live in a (watch) world where brand names reign supreme and terms like “in-house” carry a lot of weight. However, I find it much more interesting when a watchmaker is willing to peel back the curtain and highlight the great minds and hands that go into crafting the watches we love. Recently, Nomos gave us one of those unique opportunities to sit down with the man behind the design of one of its core collections: the Metro. The Metro first came into the Nomos catalog back in 2014. At the time, it made waves thanks to its debut of the brand’s proprietary swing escapement system, which was developed over seven years with the Fraunhofer Institute and TU Dresden. The structure notably features a tempered blue balance spring and offers superior precision, efficiency, and compactness with a thickness of approximately 3.2mm, which perfectly lends itself to Nomos’ sleek and effortless timepieces. While perhaps considered secondary at its initial introduction, the form of the new collection was given just as much attention as the function. In typical Nomos fashion, the caliber was housed in a modern and minimalist design echoing the tenets of German watchmaking but with a twist. This creation was the brainchild of industrial designer Mark Braun. The project marks Braun’s first and only foray into the watch space. The artist has worked in nearly every medium under the sun from furniture to kitchenware and birdhouses to shaving kits, light fixtures, jewelry, calligraphy p...
Monochrome
Doxa’s diving watch legacy is second to none, and the brand’s signature helmet-shaped case design, introduced with the SUB 300, stands out from across the room. Yet, it’s not all they do, as the SUB 200 collection simplifies things a bit and has a design of its own, despite being a typical Doxa. Introduced in […]
Worn & Wound
There comes a time in every watch collector’s life when they fall in love with a watch they know others in the hobby may potentially scoff at. Whether it be misconceptions around the brand, the use of cheaper movements and parts, seedy advertising campaigns, or just overall subjective taste in design, it’s a phenomenon that exists as one of the very few downsides of the collecting space. It’s important to note, however, that this frame of mind lies on a spectrum of course, with some watches being far more notable enemies of the wristwatch state than others. The Chase-Durer Wing Commander X is a watch that has fallen into the cracks of the watch market and a piece, I believe, may initially conjure negative sentiments by some corners of the collecting sphere. Chase-Durer was originally advertised in magazines and on the very early days of the internet, where zealous dial-up internet subscribers would surf the World Wide Web in hopes of making their very first online purchase. They never held the same staying power as others of the watch industry, akin to the 38mm mail-order film cameras found in years’ worth of popular and print media when compared to Canon or Nikon. However, there is a lot to like about the brand and, in this case, the Wing Commander X. If you’re someone who’s on the fence about whether or not you’re a fan of this watch just from aesthetics and brand recognition alone, welcome in––let me walk you through what makes this an interesting pi...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A look at the build and design of the new space-themed Timex Q Timex NASA watch inspired by the Apollo 17 lunar landing of 1972.
Teddy Baldassarre
For a watch-enthusiast raised on traditional analog timekeeping, jump-hour watches do not necessarily present the easiest or most intuitive way to read the time on their dials, but they inarguably offer one of the most dynamic ways to do so. Instead of a slow-moving central hand to indicate the hour, watches with a “jumping” design rely on a numbered disk that flips instantly to the next hour numeral at the start of each new 60-minute period. These disks most often operate behind a round aperture and are usually paired with either a similarly rotating disk for the minutes or, perhaps, with an analog hand for an interesting hybrid design. And while they may seem decidedly avant-garde in their aesthetic, watchmakers have incorporated this style of time display in their movements for over a century. Here is a look at eight of our favorites from recent years. [toc-section heading="A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date"] The Zeitwerk, which German luxury watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne introduced in 2009, is technically a “digital” watch, but it isn’t like any other one you’ve ever seen: there are no electronics, no LCD screens, and you won’t find it at your local big box store. The Lange Zeitwerk Date flies in the ionosphere of high horology, with a 44.2mm round case, made of 18k white gold or rose gold, framing an intricately crafted dial that boasts a jumping-hour digital display, powered by the manually-wound L043.8 movement. Every detail of this watch is a handcraft...
Teddy Baldassarre
Since launching in 2005, the Master Collection has been the home of some of Longines' most versatile men’s and women’s models in their entire catalog. With elegant case and dial designs, this collection leans more towards the dress watch style yet there are design nuances that make many of these models adaptable for di
Fratello
During LVMH Watch Week in Milan, I was especially interested in the new Zenith releases. It is no secret that I love Zenith. The brand has managed to amaze me time and again with releases that combine the best in watch design with its legendary calibers. To my surprise, for this year’s LVMH Watch Week, […] Visit Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival A3643 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Spring is in the air, and French brand March LA.B celebrates its favourite month with a limited edition of its flagship AM2 watch collection. Founded in 2009 by three friends, united by a passion for surfing and retro design, the LA.B part of the brand’s name does not refer to a laboratory but to the […]
Worn & Wound
One of the more unexpected developments in the enthusiast watch space over the laste year or has been the emergence of the jump hour as a staple among design driven and creative microbrands and affordable independents. It seems like they are popping up just about everywhere at price points that encourage collectors to take a chance on a very niche complication. For those of us who have been around this stuff for a while, it’s genuinely been kind of surprising, as we can clearly remember a time when very few people gave these watches a second thought, and smaller brands were absolutely not interested in putting watches like these into the market. The jump hour is pretty far removed from the vintage inspired sports watches that have had a stranglehold on affordable watch enthusiasm in recent memory. But as the pendulum swings in another direction, the more brands are finding an opportunity to experiment with this very old fashioned complication. Christopher Ward is actually no stranger to jump hour watches, having released their first back in 2011. Their latest is still powered by the venerable JJ01 movement, a caliber that predicted much of the brand’s future success and interest in higher end watchmaking. The C1 Jump Hour Mk V in “Dusk” red is the brand’s latest, and limited edition variant of the Jump Hour Mk V that Griffin reviewed here. The broad strokes are of course the same: a 39mm steel case measuring 47.5mm from lug to lug and 14mm thick, with a multi...
SJX Watches
Like its sister brand Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta recently unveiled a model that is entirely new, rather than one based on the brand’s historical designs. The Geneva time-only is a two-hand watch with a minimalist yet distinctive design that manages to capture the spirit of 1980s and 1990s Gérald Genta without being a remake. The cushion-shaped case was debuted last year with a six-figure minute repeater, but now the brand has now applied the design to something more affordable, relatively speaking. Inside is a Zenith Elite automatic that’s been dressed up surprisingly well, above and beyond the usual presentation of the calibre. Initial thoughts The revived Gerald Genta’s debut model, the Oursin, was a reissue of sorts. The Geneva, on the other hand, is a more original creation that’s no doubt inspired by the typical Genta aesthetic, but not a like-for-like remake. It’s a testament to the design that the Geneva could pass for a 1990s Gerald Genta watch even though it is not. The Geneva almost wears like a 1990s watch as well. It’s compact by today’s standards, though these proportions would have been extra-large 30 years ago. Its slimness and narrow lugs give this a formal feel, though the colours are more vivid than usual for a dress watch. The dial is definitely more 21st century than the case, especially with the grained finish, but the gradient colour is evocative of the 1970s and suits the style of the watch. I imagine a great many more colours can be s...
Worn & Wound
With all the challenges that come with owning vintage watches-servicing, wear on components, wildly varying valuation-sometimes it’s easier to look for something that simply looks vintage instead. Thankfully, we’ve seen a wave of intriguing retro-style watches as of late, and the new Dryden Watch Company Chrono Diver Gen 2 collection brings even more 1970s design to the world of modern skin divers. While the first generation of Chrono Divers from Dryden covered relatively contemporary aesthetic points, like bright colors, high-contrast details with ultra-bright Super-LumiNova, rubber straps, and more, the second generation promises an adherence to more nostalgic design cues. While the new Chrono Divers sport the same modern 42mm case dimensions, the design itself is revised; a layered profile to integrate solid end links for a new tapered five-link bracelet and recessed pushers give the watches a sleeker silhouette that harkens back to simpler skin divers of the 1960s and 1970s, rather than the bulky beasts of today. On the aesthetic end, three new colorways are available and though they largely mirror the dial designs of the first generation, the combinations themselves are much more muted in adherence to the new vintage look. The Black Vintage and PVD Vintage styles feature light yellow indices and hands over a black dial, with white chrono subdials, whereas the Blue Panda model swaps in a dressier white dial and hands with a blue bezel and subdials. Both color...
Monochrome
Since its introduction in 1998, the classic IWC Portugieser Chronograph (ref. IW3914) has barely evolved visually. It has only undergone a technical upgrade in 2020, with the introduction of a new generation featuring a manufacture calibre inside (ref. IW3916). And that consistency in the design and overall sporty-chic, nautically-inspired spirit is what makes this watch […]
Monochrome
Whatever reasons exist for creating a watch, be it heritage, technical or design-led necessity, the Studio Underd0g x Time+Tide Hand Delivered Pizza Duo exists for a much rarer, if not unique, reason: because a joke went too far. What began as an April Fool’s prank in 2023, a pizza-themed Studio Underd0g teased by Time+Tide, unexpectedly […]
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. dips its toes into ceramic for the first time with the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic, a bold watch that blends an original design with the high-tech proprieties of ceramic. Despite being a variation of a well-known model at its core, the new Streamliner is unexpectedly different and appealing, especially with a hand-finished ceramic bracelet, an unusual feature even in its segment. Initial thoughts The use of ceramic materials in watches is no longer a novelty. The inert and hard material is appealing for its near-invulnerability to scratches and high tech feel. Ceramics are typically employed for either for aesthetic or technical purposes, but usually for watch cases, while ceramic bracelets are almost exclusively the preserve of large brands that can afford working with the hard-to-machine material. Though still a niche brand, H. Moser & Cie.’s bestselling Streamliner is dressed entirely in ceramic, with a ceramic case paired with a ceramic bracelet. An all-ceramic bracelet is a rare sight from a brand of Moser’s scale. The matte, brushed finish of the ceramic exterior is at the opposite end of the colour spectrum compared with the bright red yet minimalist dial, giving this the signature Moser look. The granular, glossy finish of the fired enamel dial contrast and complements the matte, stealthy sheen of ceramic. The watch is paradoxical in some ways. Pairing Moser’s first ceramic case and bracelet with a tourbillon is somewhat incong...
Monochrome
Rémi Maillat, a watch design engineer, is behind the independent Krayon brand and creates watches that centre on our connection with natural time cycles. Krayon’s award-winning Everywhere watch, which charts sunset and sunrise times at any location worldwide, was succeeded by Maillat’s slightly simpler Anywhere watch, showing the length of the day along with sunrise and […]
Fratello
High horology in 2026 often comes wrapped in noise - big launches, dramatic case shapes, exposed mechanics, and a constant push to be the most talked-about watch of the week. Yes, I do enjoy that world. Modern, design-led independence is where much of the creativity happens. But there’s another tier of luxury independent watchmaking running […] Visit Cutting Through The Noise With The Quiet Side Of High Horology to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
As their name implies, sector-dial watches are recognizable for their vintage-inspired dial layout, with radial lines and concentric circles dividing the dial’s essential visual data - the hours, minutes, and seconds - into distinct segments. It’s a style that first made its way into watch design in the 1930s and ‘40s, the heyday of Art Deco, and at the time was almost certainly aimed at delivering an instrument-like legibility rather than any kind of stylish ornamentation. Today, however, the sector dial is enjoying a bit of a quiet renaissance mainly for aesthetic reasons, on a diverse array of timepieces. Whether the watch it adorns leans more toward “military tool” or “dressy accessory” in its appeal, the sector dial’s streamlined, subdivided look has proved to be anything but dated. Here are a dozen of our favorites on the market now. [toc-section heading="Seiko 5 Sports SRPH29"] Price: $315, Case Size: 39.4mm, Thickness: 13.2mm, Lug to Lug: 48.1mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic 4R36 Seiko’s 5 Sports line takes its cues from a classic model from 1963, the Seiko 5 Sportsmatic, whose five named attributes include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case made of durable materials. The value-oriented series speaks to military mavens and aviation enthusiasts with the SRPH29 model, which straddles the line between a v...
Fratello
Sometimes, extravagant timepieces come along and light up my life as a watch writer. You should have seen the look on my face when three Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic models landed on my desk. I knew that they were coming in, but they still surprised me. These extravagant watches display bold Italian design that looks like […] Visit Hands-On With The Extravagant Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
There are two types of watch reviews I particularly enjoy writing. One is a review for a watch that is truly bonkers. Something either outrageously expensive, avant-garde in its design sensibilities, off the beaten path and kind of rare, or some combination of all of the above. These are the types of watches I personally gravitate towards as a collector (well, not the outrageously expensive part, but the rest of it) and I find that typically I have an awful lot to say about them. It’s fun to write these reviews because it feels like I’m sharing my actual enthusiasm for something in a really pure and direct way. The other type of review I like to write is for watches that are basically on the opposite side of the spectrum when it comes to my taste. It’s a challenge (if not necessarily fun in the same way) to write about a watch that brushes up against my own biases. It’s a useful exercise as a writer to evaluate something that is outside of your wheelhouse and comfort zone. And it certainly makes for better and more interesting copy than writing about a watch that is simply generic, neither a challenge to your taste or something you’d plunk down the credit card for to purchase yourself. The new watch from Jack Mason is, for me, decidedly in that second category, a watch that I can tell from one photo is objectively nice and will have a strong following among enthusiasts, but is just not the type of thing I typically go for. The new Strat-o-timer GMT Frontier i...
Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas luxury sports watch family is now in its third generation, but its roots trace back to the 222 model of 1977. A well-represented collection with complications and straightforward time-and-date models, the Overseas is widely acclaimed for its attractive design, high-end finishings, in-house movements and versatility. In 2019, a tourbillon was added to […]
Fratello
You’ve got to hand it to Papar Watch Co.; the young American brand certainly has a unique way of doing things. It all started with the radically brutalist Anillo GMT, and now the Cenote debuts. The Cenote Titanium + Blue and Rose Gold Titanium are dive watches with a design that builds on the angular, […] Visit Hands-On With The Angular Papar Cenote Titanium + Blue And Rose Gold Titanium to read the full article.
Monochrome
Created in 2015, the Slim d’Hermès is a watch that combines a certain rigour with elegance, slenderness and the usual design touch of the brand, in particular its typography. First released in a time-only version powered by a micro-rotor movement, it is defined by its clean lines and angular, airy lugs that give the Slim […]
Monochrome
Since its founding, Atelier Wen has positioned itself as a link between contemporary watchmaking and Chinese cultural heritage. Created by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, the brand has steadily built its own design identity, drawing from architecture, traditional crafts and modern manufacturing. The Perception collection, its integrated-bracelet sports watch, has become the core expression. Introduced […]
Worn & Wound
For the third year in a row, Fears will introduce a limited edition watch to be sold exclusively at British Watchmakers’ Day, which this year occurs on March 7. It continues a theme established in 2024 of using 925 Sterling Silver for the case material, a flourish that feels special and, somehow, quintessentially British. This year’s limited edition piece, the Brunswick 40 1846 Edition, debuts a new case design as well as a special lacquer dial made just for this year’s LE. It’s also an anniversary piece, as this year marks the 180th anniversary of brand founder Edwin Fear opening his first watchmaking workshop in Bristol in 1846. This Brunswick 40 case is polished on all sides, taking full advantage of the natural lustre of 925 sterling silver. It’s also engraved with the initials of Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the brand’s managing director, which is a nod to a tradition started with the first silver pocket watch made by Edwin Fear. Additionally, like previous British Watchmakers’ Day editions in silver, the crown is set with a single diamond to note that the case is constructed from a precious metal. Diving into the specs, it’s worth noting that the case of this Brunswick 40 is very slightly thinner than the standard issue version. Per the spec sheet, this LE measures in at 11.1mm tall, while the typical Brunswick 40 is 11.9mm in height. That difference, you won’t be surprised to learn, likely comes down to the use of a manually wound movement in this...
Monochrome
Celebrating its original vocation as a Roman goldsmith and creator of fabulous high jewellery pieces glowing with brightly coloured gemstones, Bulgari kicks off LVMH Watch Week with a dazzling Tubogas Manchette in yellow gold. Fitted with Bulgari’s recently unveiled Lady Solotempo BVS 100 automatic movement, the gorgeous cuff marries the brand’s iconic Tubogas design to […]
SJX Watches
Having recently given the Monaco a rattrapante makeover, TAG Heuer has unveiled the Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph, the first-ever split-seconds chronograph in the history of the storied Carrera line-up. The watch combines the brand’s contemporary ‘glassbox’ case design with the Vaucher-derived TH81-01 movement, the only split-seconds calibre in production capable of tenth-of-a-second resolution. Built of grade 5 titanium inside and out, the Carrera Split-Seconds is positioned as both a technical showcase and a halo product for the brand. Initial thoughts It’s more than a little surprising that the Carrera, one of the most storied names in sports chronographs, has never been made in a split-seconds variant until now. In the vintage era, many of Heuer’s peers introduced split-seconds chronographs with movements sourced from Valjoux, which also supplied the ebauches for the Carrera, which suggests the technology was well within reach. That said, the Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph is arguably worth the wait, marrying the contemporary glassbox case design with the one of the only split-seconds chronograph calibres capable of tenth-of-a-second resolution. It’s a coherent product in more ways than one, carrying on the brand’s history of commercialising third-party calibres in design-forward, performance-oriented watches. In terms of design, the Carrera Split-Seconds feels more refined than the Monaco Split-Seconds, avoiding the superfluous “rattrapante” a...
Monochrome
For more than a quarter of a century, mostly through its Masterpiece collection, Maurice Lacroix has delivered pretty appealing watches based on single or multiple retrograde indications – a design statement that somehow became a signature style for the brand. Following the recent launch of the Aikonic Master Triple Retrograde, a watch with retrograde displays […]
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