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Hype dodger: 3 steel Professional Rolex watches you can actually buy Time+Tide
Rolex watches you can actually Nov 14, 2019

Hype dodger: 3 steel Professional Rolex watches you can actually buy

$16,450 – that’s the Australian recommended retail price of the Oystersteel Rolex Daytona ref. 116500LN. But, as I’m sure 99 per cent of people reading this are already patently aware, if you actually want to own one of these fabled watches, you can’t merely walk into an AD and pick one up. No, if you … ContinuedThe post Hype dodger: 3 steel Professional Rolex watches you can actually buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Diver X Cape Horn and Nemo Point Editions SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Nov 13, 2019

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Diver X Cape Horn and Nemo Point Editions

Having just signed on as a sponsor of the Vendée Globe 2020-2021, Ulysse Nardin has unveiled a pair of dive watches for the solo, nonstop, round-the-world yacht race. Each named after points along the race route, the Diver X Cape Horn and Diver X Nemo Point are based on Ulysse Nardin’s well-priced dive watch – both are below US$10,000 – powered by the in-house UN-118 movement. Diver X Cape Horn Vendée Globe Often described as the toughest sailing competition in the world, Vendée Globe is a nonstop, single-handed race – meaning a solo sailor in the boat – requiring competitors to circumnavigate the globe. Sailing monohull yachts, the contestants start and end at Les Sables d’Olonne, a beach town in the Vendée department on France’s Atlantic coast that is usually a quiet place, until the race begins. According to The New York Times, some 1.5 million spectators descended on the town in 2016 for the last race. The start of the Vendée Globe 2016-2016. Photo – Vincent Curutchet/DPPI and Vendée Globe Yachts in the harbour. Photo – Vincent Curutchet/DPPI and Vendée Globe The sailors – there were 29 in the Vendée Globe 2016-2017 – have to travel 40,075km in a north-south direction, without any assistance along the way. In the eight contests since the Vendée Globe began in 1989, three sailors have died. The next race starts on November 8, 2020, and will take several months to complete. In the last Vendée Globe, the winner completed the course in j...

Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 Phillips Limited Edition SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Nov 8, 2019

Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 Phillips Limited Edition

In a first for watchmaking, an establishment watchmaker has collaborated with an auctioneer in creating a pair of limited edition wristwatches, resulting in the El Primero A386 designed by Phillips. The tie-up has resulted in a pair of watches, one in steel with a “tropical” dial, and the other in striking black and gold – with the total number made being just 69, a nod to the year of the El Primero’s launch. The two watches are actually part of the same creative process that spawned the platinum El Primero A386 One-Off that will soon be sold for charity. Aurel Bacs and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips were responsible for conceiving the look of both watches. According to Phillips, the duo imagined being designers of the brand-new El Primero in 1969, rather than looking back from today and creating a modern remake. The yellow gold El Primero is consequently a combination that was common back in the day – think Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” though never produced by Zenith. And the steel version is not actually a “tropical” dial, rather it is a reference to the brown colours fashionable in design and apparel during the 1960s. Hence it has its sub-dials in three shades of brown, a riff on the “tricolour” registers of the original A386. And the steel watch comes with a bonus: a steel “ladder” bracelet with straight end links that’s a replica of the same found on the original A386. Key facts and price El Primero A386 Phillips Limited Edition Ref. 30.P38...

Introducing the Winners of the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin clinched Nov 8, 2019

Introducing the Winners of the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

This year’s GPHG saw a total of no less than 196 watches entered into the running for one of the night’s awards. The jury, presided over by Aurel Bacs, then pre-selected 84 models, divided into 14 categories. The latter included four new awards – the Iconic Watch, Diver’s Watch, Calendar and Astronomy and Horological Revelation. The outcome is similar to last year’s, with a strong ratio of independents among the winners. Out of 18 watch awards, eight were awarded to independents including Kudoke (Petite Aiguille), Ming (Horological Revelation) and newcomer Genus, (Mechanical Exception), while virtuoso watchmaker Voutilainen scooped two awards (Men’s Watch and Artistic Crafts). The biggest winner of the evening was Audemars Piguet who took home three awards including the top prize – the Aiguille d’Or – for its Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The watch is the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar at just 6.3mm in height, achieved primarily by using a modified ultra-thin cal. 2120 as a base with a smartly designed perpetual calendar module on top that has an integrated end-of-month cam on the date wheel and a 48-month wheel with a novel geometry. Elsewhere, having lost to Genus in the Mechanical Exception category, Vacheron Constantin clinched the Innovation award with its Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar. The watch addresses the problem of having to reset a perpetual calendar that has lain dormant. It utilises two balances osci...

Hands-On: Chanel J12 The Inseparables “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Richard Mille MB&F; Nov 8, 2019

Hands-On: Chanel J12 The Inseparables “Only Watch”

To mark the 20th anniversary of the J12 this year, Chanel gave its signature timepiece a microscopic yet significant makeover, both inside and out, while preserving the distinct identity that has contributed to the watch’s two-decade success. For Only Watch 2019, the brand created J12 The Inseparables – the very first examples of the new-generation J12 to roll off the line, distinguished by a unique case and bracelet finish. And the pair also happen to be one of the most affordable lots in the auction. The brand has approached these unique iterations in the same manner it approached the revamp – with subtlety and restraint. The pair of watches are both rendered in smooth, matte ceramic, with a tone-on-tone dial. And both are equipped with a special black-coated execution of the new Caliber 12.1 produced by Kenissi, the movement maker that is part owned by Chanel. Matte finish The most apparent difference between the Only Watch pair and the standard version is the matte finish of the ceramic case and bracelet; the standard models have a glossy, polished finish. While the J12 is primarily a women’s watch, especially in this smallish size, the finish of the Only Watch editions come across as more masculine – and also more refined and discreet. And as it always has been, the case measures 38mm. It is made entirely in-house by the brand, thanks to its ownership of G&F; Chatelain, a reputed case and buckle manufacture, whose clients include Richard Mille, MB&F; and Bel...

Highlights: Phillips ‘Double Signed’ Geneva Auction Part II SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Gobbi” chronograph Nov 7, 2019

Highlights: Phillips ‘Double Signed’ Geneva Auction Part II

Here’s part II of highlights at Phillips’ Double Signed auction – you’ll find the first part here – including a lovely Audemars Piguet “Gobbi” chronograph with a green gold dial, as well as a gorgeous Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 “pink on pink” that’s more affordable than usual, for a reason. Lot 35 – Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in pink gold “Trucchi” The most valuable lot in the sale, with an estimate over 1.2m francs, is the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series in pink gold. It’s one of only six pink gold third series watches known; in fact, the total number of ref. 2499s in pink gold across all four series totals just 23. And this is the only one with the “Trucchi” signature on the dial, having been sold by the retailer in Naples that’s still in operation today. According to Phillips, it was sold by Trucchi to an Italian-American doctor in 1972, who then sold it to the consignor who sold the watch at auction in 1999 at Antiquorum in Geneva. It sold for almost 700,000 francs then, making it one of the most expensive watches in the world at the time. The watch is in exemplary condition, albeit with one quirk: the crystal is sapphire instead of PlexiGlas as is standard for the third series. Found only on fourth series ref. 2499s, the sapphire crystal and accompanying bezel was presumable installed by Patek Philippe in the 1980s according to Phillips, since the watch already had a sapphire crystal when it was sold in 1999. Lot 50 – Patek Phili...

INTRODUCING: The Farer Roché World Timer Time+Tide
Farer Roché World Timer Boutique Nov 1, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Farer Roché World Timer

Boutique British watchmaker Farer have just released what many in the horological community are calling their best watch to date – the Farer Roché World Timer. Hewn from 316L stainless steel, the svelte 39mm case of the Roché World Timer is a mere 11mm thick, ensuring that the timepiece offers a great amount of bandwidth … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Farer Roché World Timer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: A history of the Rolex Daytona Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Editor’s note OK Oct 29, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: A history of the Rolex Daytona

Editor’s note: OK, I’m guessing that 99 per cent of people reading this are already well aware of Rolex’s eponymous Daytona … and, admittedly, it’s hard not to be. Here is a watch that is deeply desirable, seemingly unobtainable, and a cashed-up speculator’s veritable dream timepiece. And, of course, it’s not just the modern iterations … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: A history of the Rolex Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega’s contemporary new museum offers a unique glimpse into its past Time+Tide
Omega s contemporary new museum Oct 20, 2019

Omega’s contemporary new museum offers a unique glimpse into its past

Omega has just opened their latest Museum in the heart of the “La Cité du Temps” in Biel, Switzerland. The museum, which has a decidedly modern aesthetic, was designed by the award-winning Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, who is famed for his groundbreaking work with paper and recycled cardboard. Housed inside the contemporary institution is a … ContinuedThe post Omega’s contemporary new museum offers a unique glimpse into its past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It’s a date! Glashütte Original drop two new takes on the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Time+Tide
Glashütte Original drop two new takes Oct 18, 2019

It’s a date! Glashütte Original drop two new takes on the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date

It will surprise precisely no one to learn that round watches are the most popular category. But, versatile as the circle is, the round watch can be a bit same-samey. That’s not an issue with this fancy pair of Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Dates, offered in some stylish new dial variations. Before we get … ContinuedThe post It’s a date! Glashütte Original drop two new takes on the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

NEWS: Vacheron Constantin opens first Australian boutique in Melbourne Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin opens first Australian boutique Oct 17, 2019

NEWS: Vacheron Constantin opens first Australian boutique in Melbourne

Vacheron Constantin is one of the grand dames of Genevan watchmaking - tracing their lineage and continuous operation back to 1755, or 260-odd years.  Shortly after Vacheron Constantin’s founding, Captain Cook set sail for Australian shores, claiming it as British sovereign territory in 1770. It took Vacheron Constantin a little longer to make its way … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Vacheron Constantin opens first Australian boutique in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breaking News: SIHH Will Now Become Watches & Wonders Geneva SJX Watches
Breitling also decided Oct 16, 2019

Breaking News: SIHH Will Now Become Watches & Wonders Geneva

From 2020 onwards, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) will be known as Watches & Wonders Geneva, adopting the name of an event that first started in Hong Kong before migrating to Miami in the wake of the slowdown in the Chinese territory. Last year’s shock announcement by industry giant Swatch Group that it would depart Baselworld permanently set up off chain of events: a botched response that led to the resignation of the chief executive of the fair’s organiser MCH Group, and then a full-year loss for MCH. Some prominent brands like Breitling also decided to leave Baselworld, though the giants, like LVMH and Rolex, have opted to stay. Since then Baselworld’s new management has announced a flurry of new initiatives and programmes, starting with Baselworld announcing it would unite with SIHH after a decade’s separation. It’s also revealed an unimpressive hotel deal and more recently, a concierge service for visitors. All of that seems to have compelled the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the organiser of SIHH – a watch fair in healthy condition compared to Baselworld – to do something as well. And so they have, with the goal of making the event more consumer centric. Rebranded but pretty much unchanged Palexpo forever Despite the name change, the format of the event appears pretty much the same. The Salon with its 30 exhibiting brands will take place as it always has, at the Palexpo conventional hall beside Geneva airport, loca...

The New Omega Museum is Open SJX Watches
Omega Museum Oct 14, 2019

The New Omega Museum is Open

Located around the corner from its old premises, the Omega Museum has just reopened within La Cité du Temps – “The City of Time” – an impressive glass and wood building designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, who has worked with the brand on several projects, including its new factory. Connected to the new Swatch brand headquarters via an aerial bridge, La Cité du Temps sits just behind Omega’s main building in Biel, a city about 90 minutes from Zurich by train. Appropriately, it is on a street named after Nicolas G. Hayek, founder of the Swatch Group, the Swiss watchmaking conglomerate that’s Omega’s parent company. La Cite du Temps, the horizontal building in the middle La Cite du Temps at right While the original museum was opened in 1983, making it the oldest watch brand museum in the world, the new museum sits on the second level of the five-story La Cité du Temps, with the Swatch Museum one floor above and another floor dedicated to temporary exhibitions. The new premises give the Omega Museum an expansive space to detail the watchmaker’s long and diverse history on a scale that was impossible in the museum’s former home, which it shared with the company canteen. The 64-window display that’s built like the links of a steel watch bracelet Each of the key themes in Omega history are captured in comprehensive exhibits, including being the official timekeeper for the Olympic Games, the Speedmaster Professional and the Moon landing – ...

RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Editor’s note I Oct 8, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank

Editor’s note: I think most people reading this fully appreciate just how dire things were in the 1970s as a result of the notorious “quartz crisis”. Myriad Swiss watchmakers seemed to just disappear overnight, succumbing to a battery-powered onslaught led by Seiko, who inundated the wristwatch market with inexpensive, accurate timepieces. It was an interesting … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Taking another look at the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Oct 4, 2019

Taking another look at the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow

Editor’s note: OK, yes, it seems as though every time you scroll through Instagram these days, it’s highly probable that your feed will be inundated with myriad “rainbow” bejewelled-bezel timepieces.            And whether you’re for or against them, there’s no denying it – these bedazzled technicolour flex watches are firmly solidified in the zeitgeist of current … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Obituary: Gilbert Albert, Jeweller and Watch Designer SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 3, 2019

Obituary: Gilbert Albert, Jeweller and Watch Designer

Designer of some of the most striking wristwatches of the 1960s, jeweller Gilbert Albert (1930-2019), passed away in his hometown of Geneva on October 1 , 2019. He was 90. Son of a newspaper deliveryman, Albert trained as a jeweller at Geneva’s l’Ecole des Arts Industriels and was only in his mid 20s when he joined Patek Philippe in 1955 as a designer. In his seven years at the watchmaker, which was then led by Henri Stern, himself a trained jeweller, Albert was responsible for some of the most radical watch cases of the era. These strikingly asymmetrical timepieces, like the Asymétrie wristwatches and Ricochet pocket watches, are still incredible designs six decades on. Gilbert Albert. Photo – lenouvelliste.ch He then set up his own workshop in 1962, where he became known for the use of unusual materials like coral and meteorite, all installed in quirky, unique jewellery desirable enough that frequent fakes eventually emerged. Albert also designed watches and jewellery for other watchmakers, most notably Omega, where he created several collections, including the Maille d’Or and Arabesque d’Or, all characterised by a distinctive, almost organic style. With his success, Albert built a small but highly regarded jewellery business. He opened his first store in his hometown in 1973, sited on rue de la Corraterie, a street just outside the walls of Geneva’s Old Town. Ten years later that was followed by a boutique in Zurich. Albert’s boutique in Gen...

Interview: 800 Years of Japanese Swords and the G-Shock SJX Watches
Casio announced Sep 30, 2019

Interview: 800 Years of Japanese Swords and the G-Shock

Acclaimed in ancient literature and collectible today, swords made by the Gassan school trace their lineage back centuries, as is only possible in Japan. The school originated some 800 years ago, dating back to the early Kamakura period, approximately the 13th century. It started at the base of Mount Gassan, the highest of a trio of sacred mountains in what is now Yamagata prefecture. Though the school became dormant sometime in the 16th century, it was revived sometime in the mid 1800s by a descendant of the Gassan family in Osaka. The revival was successful and the Gassan school made swords for several Japanese emperors in the 19th and 20th century. Six generations on, the Gassans continue their craft with Sadanobu Gassan, and his father, Sadatoshi, now based in the city of Sakurai in Nara prefecture, about six hours southwest of Tokyo. At Baselworld 2019, Casio announced its collaboration with Sadanobu Gassan to create the G-Shock MR-G “Gassan” MRG-G2000GA, which has key parts of the case and bracelet finished by Mr Gassan himself in his workshop. In essence, it links the Gassan family’s eight hundred centuries of tradition with the latest in Japanese timekeeping technology. We got in touch with Mr Gassan to discuss his work for G-Shock, and also the state of his ancient craft. The interview has been edited and condensed. The G-Shock MR-G “Gassan” MRG-G2000GA What made you want to continue in your family’s footsteps? At a young age, I witnessed my...

A Guide to the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Sep 29, 2019

A Guide to the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019

Having only begun yesterday and open until October 13, the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore is a watchmaking extravaganza – with free entry to the public – that’s already a box office hit on its opening weekend. Reputed to have cost some 20m Swiss francs, the vast historical and cultural showcase is the biggest Patek Philippe has staged to date, with 10 rooms spread over 1900m2, or over 20,000ft2. Pre-registrations for the event exceeded 35,000 people, with the total tally after two weeks expected to substantially surpass that; the first day alone saw some 4000 visitors pass through. The venue: Sands Theatre at Marina Bay Sands But as important as its broad appeal is the fact that the exhibition has drawn some of the world’s most important watch collectors to the city state. Outside of a factory event in Geneva, there probably hasn’t been this many custom Patek Philippe wristwatches together in one place. A custom dial ref. 5970J owned by the gentleman collector known as @horology_ancienne One of the major contemporary timepieces on show: the Star Calibre 2000 And arguably the most major watch of any sort in the exhibition: the landmark Calibre 89, the most complicated portable watch ever at the time of its creation in 1989 The six limited edition watches created especially for the event have garnered the most headlines, but the exhibition itself is worth a long visit because there’s a lot to see. It covers not just Patek Philippe, but...

Alpina Introduces the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph SJX Watches
Frederique Constant which was itself then Sep 26, 2019

Alpina Introduces the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph

Having created a number of appealing and accessibly priced “tool” watches over the years including the Seastrong Diver Heritage and the KM-710, Alpina now unveils the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph, powered by a single-button chronograph movement supplied by its sister company, La Joux-Perret. The Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph is the second mechanical chronograph in the Alpina catalogue; the first was the Alpiner 4 Manufacture Flyback, which had a Valjoux 7750, likewise modified by La Joux-Perret to include a flyback function. The brand Alpina was actually founded over 130 years ago but fell victim to the quartz crisis in the 1970s. Then in 2002, it was acquired by Frederique Constant, which was itself then acquired by Citizen of Japan in 2016. Now, like its sister company Frederique Constant, it specialises in accessibly priced watches, made possible in part by the movement making expertise of La Joux-Perret. As with most Alpina watches, the Startimer Pilot Heritage chronograph combines retro design with modern dimensions and build. Its styling is recognisably 1970s, and evokes the experimental spirit of the era without being overtly flashy or eccentric. Measuring 42mm by 40.7mm, the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph features a cushion case with the chronograph pusher located at two o’clock. Like all cushion-cased watches of the 1970s, it has a radially brushed top surface and case band that are separated by a wide polished bevel, which enha...

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary Sep 24, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service

OK, we’ll skip the whole “shaken, not stirred” routine and skip to the salient facts. Omega has just released its latest Bond-themed timepiece, the Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service – and it’s pretty awesome. Limited to just 7007 pieces (see what they did there?), the Bond watch pays homage to, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: The return of the retailer exclusive watch Time+Tide
Sep 20, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The return of the retailer exclusive watch

In the world of serious vintage watch collecting the presence of a retailer’s name on the dial can make a big difference in terms of price. Turler, Tiffany & Co, Serpico Y Laino, prestigious retailers with great provenance - just the sort of thing that makes an otherwise generic steel sports watch stand out of … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The return of the retailer exclusive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the MIH Gaïa Watch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Sep 17, 2019

Introducing the MIH Gaïa Watch

One of Switzerland’s most important timepiece museums, the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), is raising funds with a limited edition, rising hours wristwatch that’s both cleanly styled and affordable. Arriving some 14 years after the first, minimalist MIH watch created by independent watchmakers Ludwig Oechslin and Paul Gerber, the MIH Gaïa watch, named after the annual Gaïa Prize given out by the MIH, is the result of a collaboration between watch industry suppliers located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the hometown of the MIH. The MIH Gaïa watch will be crowdfunded, and a minimum number of orders will be needed for it to enter production. Importantly, the MIH Gaïa watch is priced at about US$2400, half what the original MIH watch with an annual calendar cost about a decade ago, making it a compelling value proposition. A local collaboration Each aspect of the watch, from design to the case, was the work of a local supplier. Some are little known outside the industry, like buckle maker Cornu & Cie, while others are famous – the dial was made by Jean Singer & Cie, best known for the dials it made for Rolex and Patek Philippe in the mid 20th century. Slightly bowl-shaped, the case of the watch is inspired by the MIH building, while the domed dial is inspired by the spherical Gaïa Prize trophy. Time is indicated on two discs: rising hours in a window at 12 o’clock, and the the minutes on a disc just below. It’s a classically sized timepiece...

RECOMMENDED READING: John Mayer’s insane watch collection Time+Tide
Sep 16, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: John Mayer’s insane watch collection

We’re pretty sure that most of you are already aware of just how absurdly ridiculous Mr John Mayer’s watch collection is, thanks to myriad Instagram posts, news stories and two rather famous Talking Watches episodes. But the sheer scope and significance of the musician’s horological haul still tends to beggar belief, especially if you’ve ever … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: John Mayer’s insane watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.