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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.

Celebrating 30 Years of the Lothar Schmidt Era at Sinn HQ Worn & Wound
Sinn HQ May 16, 2024

Celebrating 30 Years of the Lothar Schmidt Era at Sinn HQ

On an unusually warm day in early March, I was invited to visit Sinn headquarters in Frankfurt, Germany. Sinn had prepared a special program including a special exhibition showcasing their technologies over the last 30 years in the main foyer. This was followed by a factory tour, and finally seeing their latest collection.  Most of us are familiar with the origins of Sinn, which all started with Helmut Sinn, who was a flight instructor, and former World War II pilot. The company’s core business under his ownership was the manufacturing of navigation clocks and pilot chronographs. In 1994, certified engineer Lothar Schmidt acquired the company from Helmut Sinn and renamed it to “Sinn Spezialuhren GmbH”. Lothar Schmidt worked previously with IWC, and was also part of Günter Blümlein’s team to revive A. Lange & Söhne. This year Sinn is celebrating 30 years since Mr. Schmidt acquired the company. It was a coincidence that the day of my visit, news broke regarding Mr. Schmidt’s succession plans. He will celebrate his 75th birthday this year, and announced plans to create a foundation similar to the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, that will own the shares of Sinn and its subsidiary companies. Mr. Schmidt also owns the SUG casemaker in the famous watchmaking village of Glashütte.  Over the past 30 years, Mr. Schmidt, with his engineering background, has developed several technologies for Sinn watches. In 1995, Ar-Dehumidifying Technology was introduced for the first tim...

Hands On: Patek Philippe World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe World Time Apr 29, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe introduced the World Time with Date ref. 5330G-001, the brand’s first regular-production world time with a date. Although the model officially debuted last June with a 300-piece, purple-dial limited edition for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Japan, the ref. 5330G-001 brings this complication into the mainstream with global distribution and a more versatile colour palette. Initial thoughts The ref. 5330G is quintessential Patek Philippe is several ways. It embodies a complication synonymous with the brand that is presented in a slim case. The overall aesthetic is modern but clearly vintage inspired. And the movement incorporates a complication that is cleverly executed and necessarily thin to fit the case. So conceptually, it is appealing. The ref. 5330G is also appealing in terms of its tangible qualities. It has good proportions and a refined, polished appearance that is typical of modern Patek Philippe watches. What do I not like? The carbon pattern dial is intrinsically attractive – it is done well and modern in feel – but feels a bit overused. Earlier world time models, on the other hand, had dial patterns that were unique to the reference. And the other is the Patek Philippe pricing. At over US$76,000, the ref. 5330G is steeply priced for a relatively straightforward pair of complications, even considering the ingenious construction of the date. But it is a Patek Philippe, and the unrivalled brand name alone accounts ...

Meet The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph And Defy Extreme Diver Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Apr 10, 2024

Meet The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph And Defy Extreme Diver

Well, well, well… What do we have here? A proper dedicated dive watch in the Zenith lineup, that’s what! The Le Locle-based brand hasn’t made one of these for decades, but it seems the team has pulled out all the stops with the Defy Extreme Diver. Alongside it comes the new (although somewhat predictable) Defy […] Visit Meet The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph And Defy Extreme Diver to read the full article.

Swatch Art Journey 2024 - Meet The Swatch × Tate Gallery Collection Fratello
Swatch Mar 30, 2024

Swatch Art Journey 2024 - Meet The Swatch × Tate Gallery Collection

The Swatch × Tate collection debuted on March 20th at London’s Tate Modern gallery, home to over 76,000 art pieces. The reason for that is the latest Swatch art collaboration with Tate. There are seven new Swatch × Tate models, each representing a specific artwork - Turner’s Scarlet Sunset, Chagall’s Blue Circus, Miró’s Women and […] Visit Swatch Art Journey 2024 - Meet The Swatch × Tate Gallery Collection to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Colorful NOS Swatch, a Classic Omega, and a Military Issued CWC Worn & Wound
Omega Mar 29, 2024

eBay Finds: A Colorful NOS Swatch, a Classic Omega, and a Military Issued CWC

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Constellation Vintage Omega Constellations are highly sought after, especially the classic pie-pan dial with dog leg lugs like this sweet 1966 example. The steel case is in great shape, even though it’s likely felt the touch of a polishing wheel. The dog leg lugs still show their chamfers and the observatory medallion on the back is nice and clear. The silver pie-pan dial looks original and is in excellent condition. The caliber 561 Chronometer movement is clean and runs well per the seller. It comes on an original Omega beads of rice bracelet, but I don’t think it is original to this watch. Overall very clean example of a very desirable vintage Omega. View auction here Squale Sigel Diver  Next up is a rare vintage Squale Medium diver. This example is a Squale Sigel, with black dial and two-tone acrylic bezel insert. This Medium Squale case is 34mm wide, with a slightly asymmetrical shape. The case shows some honest wear, but nothing bad. The black dial has some patina on the lume and hands, as well as on the two-tone acrylic bezel insert. That said, vintage Squale divers are hard to find and always in demand by collectors. This one even has the correct ‘Von’ si...

Snoopy Just Wants to Sleep: the Swatch Mission to the Moonphase is Here Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank Mar 21, 2024

Snoopy Just Wants to Sleep: the Swatch Mission to the Moonphase is Here

In a move that would seem to indicate that no, they really never will stop with these things, Swatch has unveiled a new Bioceramic MoonSwatch featuring, you guessed it: Snoopy. This release has been teased for several weeks now, so it’s not exactly a shock, but it just kind of landing on a Wednesday night is, I have to admit, a little unexpected. What we have here is an all white Bioceramic MoonSwatch case (inspired by the full moon, according to Swatch), a form factor that at this point is nearly as familiar as a Seiko SKX007 or a Cartier Tank. The “Mission to the MoonPhase” at first glance looks like a typical MoonSwatch, but in a stark white treatment. I can’t be the only one for whom it immediately conjured the Guilty Remnant, right? If there’s a watch better suited to that particular, fictional, doomsday cult, I’ve never seen it.  Anyway, this is most certainly not a normal MoonSwatch. No, this one not only features everyone’s favorite cartoon beagle in the subdial at the 2:00 position, but it’s a moonphase (yes, that’s Snoopy, apparently representing all of us, just trying to get some sleep in the moonphase indicator). I’m sometimes hard on the MoonSwatch, but Swatch has done something genuinely cool with the lume treatment here, adding a “secret” line of text that will only be visible under UV light. It’s charming, fitting with the Snoopy theme, and feels like the right way to execute something that could be perceived as gimmick. This kind...

Ollech & Wajs Introduce the Rallychron, a Tribute to the Golden Age of Motorsport Worn & Wound
Mar 19, 2024

Ollech & Wajs Introduce the Rallychron, a Tribute to the Golden Age of Motorsport

Ollech & Wajs has announced a new chronograph inspired by the golden age of motorsport. The OW Rallychron joins the collection this spring, and it’s a watch with at once appears traditional, and pulled straight from a 1960s race track, and also has some Easter eggs that racing aficionados will surely appreciate. Ollech & Wajs releases are always notable in our view because of the brand’s unique, somewhat offbeat sensibility, and their habit of overbuilding their watches to an almost comical degree. The OW Rallychron has a 39.5mm stainless steel case that is completely brushed, and is based on heritage chronographs from the Ollech & Wajs catalog. And while this watch has the appearance of being track ready, it has water resistance to 300 meters, so it will easily stand up to any water related activities you throw at it, or any unfortunate track related incidents that become water related activities. Unsurprisingly, the case is a tad thick to accommodate the water resistance (and the Valjoux 7753 movement), measuring in at 15.3mm.  The dial is gray with black subdials, and is inspired by grayscale news photography that you might have seen in the 1960s when racing was covered in the media. It makes this one a muted and somewhat understated affair, even with what is likely to be a somewhat massive wrist presence given the case height. The hands offer the first bit of racing inspired design, with hour and minute hands being given a checkered pattern, recalling, of course, ...

Sinn Introduces the 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph SJX Watches
Farer Feb 19, 2024

Sinn Introduces the 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph

Sinn recently revealed its new offerings for the year, which included a retro take on of its signature pilot’s chronograph. The 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph features a matte black dial with a classic three-register layout highlighted by red accents, a design inspired by the 103 C from the 1970s. Significantly, the new 103 is powered by a manual-wind movement, the first time in two decades Sinn is launching a hand-wind chronograph. Initial thoughts  This appeal of this release lies in the elegantly vintage design, notably the classic three-register layout and 1970s details like the “roulette” register. The contrast between the black and red elements is especially attractive. Notably, unlike many scaled-up vintage remakes, here the retro styling is presented in almost the same size. The new 103 is 41 mm and almost 15 mm high, which sticks close to the dimensions of the original. Priced at US$2,870, the new 103 is affordable. However, the Sellita movement inside can also be found in retro-inspired chronographs from micro-brands like Farer for a quarter less. Although Sinn has actual aviation-instrument history, while most other brands in this price segment don’t, the price still feels high. Sinn should have done more with the movement, or some other substantive upgrades, in order to justify the price. Nevertheless, true-blue Sinn enthusiasts would value this launch, since Sinn doesn’t do too many vintage remakes. Manual wind and vintage flair The 103 is a pilot’s chr...

First Look – The Minimalist Louis Erard Regulator x Olivier Mosset Monochrome
Louis Erard Regulator x Olivier Mosset Jan 30, 2024

First Look – The Minimalist Louis Erard Regulator x Olivier Mosset

An exceptional collaboration between renowned Swiss abstract artist Olivier Mosset and watchmaker Louis Erard results in a minimalist black-on-black model destined to become a sought-after collector’s piece. Translating the artist’s abstract, reductionist codes into the miniature canvas of a watch, the Louis Erard Regulator flaunts the monochromatic palette of the rebellious Swiss artist. Produced in […]

Industry News – Swatch Group 2023 Results Show Solid Growth of Sales, Positive Outlook for 2024 Monochrome
Longines Tissot or Breguet reports Jan 23, 2024

Industry News – Swatch Group 2023 Results Show Solid Growth of Sales, Positive Outlook for 2024

Following the announcement in July 2023 of its half-year results showing an impressive growth of 18% in sales, Swatch Group has just issued its key figures for the entire year 2023. The Biel-based conglomerate, owner of brands such as Omega, Longines, Tissot or Breguet, reports sales up by 12.6% at constant exchange rates, or 5.2% […]

Behind The Lens: Three Black-Dialed Gold Treasures From Patek Philippe, Akrivia, And A. Lange & Söhne – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Akrivia Jan 14, 2024

Behind The Lens: Three Black-Dialed Gold Treasures From Patek Philippe, Akrivia, And A. Lange & Söhne – Reprise

When GaryG recently took a good look at the current state of his watch collection, he was surprised by the large proportion of dark-dialed pieces in the mix. He has enjoyed – and photographed – each of three of these watches a great deal, but it isn’t until recently that he pulled them together in one place for side-by-side shooting and direct comparison. The results (and the watches) are simply stunning.

Introducing – The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Seddiqi Special, With Meteorite Dial Monochrome
Gerald Charles Nov 29, 2023

Introducing – The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Seddiqi Special, With Meteorite Dial

Gerald Charles has pulled off something quite extraordinary in the watch world: all its collections revolve exclusively around one case design. And what a case design that is! Created by legendary designer Gérald Genta in 2006, the flamboyant Maestro case design is the backbone of Gerald Charles. Ranging from time-and-date models to skeletonised versions and […]

How to use a slide rule bezel Time+Tide
Nov 3, 2023

How to use a slide rule bezel

We can all pretty much agree that pilot’s watches are awesome, whether or not it’s a historical legend or something more contemporary. There’s something about their utilitarian approach which is inspires our day-to-day lives, letting our imaginations soar whenever we check the time. That said, most pilot’s watch owners don’t actually fly planes. But, if … ContinuedThe post How to use a slide rule bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Revamps Their Avenger Collection Worn & Wound
Breitling Revamps Their Avenger Collection Nov 1, 2023

Breitling Revamps Their Avenger Collection

Breitling is keeping their foot on the gas in redesigning their core collection of aviation watches, and this time they’ve updated their modern pilot range, the Avenger collection. As opposed to Breitling’s other collections, such as the Navitimer and the AVI, the Avenger is relatively new with just over 20 years under its belt. As such, the design feels anchored in a very different aesthetic, which has now been updated to slightly more modern sensibilities while still being a familiar sight overall. The new Avenger collection welcomes a chronograph, a GMT, and time and date watches, each with a variety of options totaling 11 new references altogether.  The Aveneger has always been an aviation watch aimed at the more extreme end of things, proudly boasting the winged B logo on its dial and an unorthodox design to suit the needs of the jet pilots it was intended for. The latest generations looks to smooth out a few of the rough edges, and create a design some may consider more palatable to a wider audience. In the process, the Avenger doesn’t quite have the same impact it once had, but will it be more approachable as a result? The new collection ditches the winged B logo, opting for the large scripted B instead, leaving the Professional collection as the last holdout for the classic rendition. The distinctive bezel with heavy block section added to the cardinal positions remains, though in a slightly less aggressive manner than we’ve seen it in the past. This may b...

IWC Brings a Fan Favorite Ceramic Tone to their 41mm Chronograph Platform Worn & Wound
IWC Brings Oct 19, 2023

IWC Brings a Fan Favorite Ceramic Tone to their 41mm Chronograph Platform

If you’re a fan of IWC pilot watches, you’ve no doubt participated in one of this cohort’s favorite activities, which is armchair quarterbacking the specifics of each release. We’ve gotten to a point where there are so many case sizes, complications, and case materials in the collection that the moment a new watch is announced, there’s a cry on the internet for that exact thing but tweaked, somehow, to more closely resemble another watch the brand makes. This is especially true with IWC’s ceramic cased pilot watches, which tend to be rather large and drive more than their share of “If only it was __mm” comments on Instagram. Earlier this year, in the midst of Ingy-fever, IWC quietly released a very nice 41mm chronograph in blue ceramic. It got some of us thinking: will more ceramic color options come to this Goldilocks sized case that everyone (myself very much included) seems to love?  The answer, of course, is yes. This week, IWC revealed a watch that many collectors have been hoping for for quite some time, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. The brown “Mojave” case is meant to look like desert sand, and has been a favorite when executed as a perpetual calendar and Big Pilot. It was also, first, a chronograph, which made its debut back in 2019 in the same 44.5mm case later occupied by the Tahoe and Woodland versions of the chrono. It’s certainly the brand’s most unique ceramic colorway, and I have a feeling the news of this...