985 articles · 87 videos found · page 28 of 36
Monochrome
Last year, with the John Mayer limited edition, Audemars Piguet announced the end of its older perpetual calendar movement, the calibre 5134. And indeed, as we have seen with the launch of the next-gen Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding, there is now a new and modern calibre 7138. But it’s not entirely the end of […]
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet kicks off its 150th anniversary in a big way with an all-new perpetual calendar movement, the Audemars Piguet Calibre 7138. Making its debut in both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, the cal. 7138 is a landmark in traditional perpetual calendars. In fact, the movement is perhaps the most sophisticated and user-friendly perpetual calendar from an establishment brand. The calendar relies on the classic “grand lever” mechanism that’s been reinvented in an ultra-thin manner, but more importantly, the cal. 7138 employs an ingenious and innovative setting mechanism. Consequently, it is impressively intuitive and also foolproof. All the calendar indications are set via the crown, and the movement can’t be broken by setting it at the wrong time. Together, these features mark the cal. 7138 out as one of the most notable perpetual calendar movements on the market today. The cal. 7138 debuts in the Code 11.59 (left) and Royal Oak. Image – Audemars Piguet Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar has long been a key part of the history of Audemars Piguet (AP), especially after the bestselling ref. 5548 was launched in 1978. So a brand-new perpetual calendar for its 150th anniversary is fitting. At the same time, the calibre illustrates AP’s tremendous advances as a vertically integrated, industrial-haute horlogerie manufacture that has developed an splendid stable of in-house calibres in a relatively short period of time. The irony is that the cal. 7138 is almost...
Fratello
We know Yema as an accessible French brand that offers fairly affordable watches. However, with the introduction of the company’s in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau movements, its prices shifted upward a bit. To ensure that the watchmakers have enough time to work on the higher-end in-house movements and still offer watches at a more affordable price […] Visit Yema Introduces Its Superman Swiss Edition To Mark A Strategic Turnaround to read the full article.
Revolution
James Dowling shares with a special watch from his personal collection: The never-produced Oysterquartz Perpetual Calendar with the calibre 5355.
Monochrome
Back in early 2019, Omega announced the comeback of the legendary Calibre 321 – or at least a faithful recreation of the movement that powered the brand’s emblematic Speedmaster from its introduction in 1957 until around 1968, when the brand switched to the more reliable Calibre 861. The first watch with this historic movement inside […]
Fratello
In 2019, Hamilton launched a limited-edition Chrono-Matic 50 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the legendary Calibre 11. Along with Breitling, Heuer, Dubois-Dépraz, and Buren, Hamilton was one of the original partners in the development of the automatic Calibre 11 that debuted in 1969. The 2019 version of the Chrono-Matic 50 had a black dial, […] Visit Introducing: The Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50 Limited Edition In Blue And Orange to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A monochromatic reinterpretation of Ulysse Nardin’s skeleton watch with a prominent “X”, the Blast “Amoureuxpeintre” is a collaboration with Vsevolod “Sever” Cherepanov, a Kyrgyz streetwear designer also known as Amoureuxpeintre who was one of the first to use augmented reality prints on fabric. Restrained and minimalist, the new Blast has a 42 mm sandblasted titanium case and an unusual frosted sapphire dial that partially hides the skeletonised “X” movement, leaving the calibre only faintly visible. According to Ulysse Nardin, the artist drew inspiration for the design from frosted glass panels found in offices. Initial thoughts Renowned for pioneering silicon components in mechanical watchmaking with its groundbreaking Freak, Ulysse Nardin has made some odd design choices in recent years, including the decision to make the letter “X” a centrepiece of its designs. The collaboration with Amoureuxpeintre hides the “X” and transforms the Blast case into something low-key with its all-black finish, and the result is a surprisingly different, and appealing watch. Styling aside, the latest Blast is typical Ulysse Nardin in terms of mechanics, which is to say accomplished. Although the Blast collection does not share the same status or historical significance of the Freak, it still demonstrates Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to contemporary horology with a high-spec, in-house movement that has all of its regulator – hairspring, balance, escape, and pal...
SJX Watches
Bulgari upgrades its signature snake-inspired watch with an all-new, in-house movement. Retaining the familiar oval case, the Serpenti Automatic debuts in two variants, the Serpenti Seduttori Automatic and Serpenti Tubogas Automatic, both equipped with the BVS100 calibre. A hint of where the LVMH watch brands are going, the BVS100 is a compact, workhorse automatic movement developed by Bulgari and slated to be produced by sister brand Zenith for other brands in the LVMH stable. Initial thoughts The historical Serpenti in enamel is arguably an iconic women’s watch, and the modern-day take on the design is bigger, bolder, and sports cleaner lines. While the Serpenti Seduttori is more subtle, the Tubogas version is especially compelling with its double-twirl bracelet that is classic Bulgari. The in-house movement is a worthy upgrade for this iconic design, although the movement is an industrial calibre rather than a high-end creation. That, however, is reflected in the relatively affordable price of the entry-level models, which start at about US$10,000. While the price is on the high side for a time-only watch with a straightforward automatic movement, it can be rationalised by the iconic design and excellent bracelet work, even on the base models. All-new movement The Serpenti Seduttori is offered in seven distinct variations - stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, rose gold two-tone, and white gold - with the option of diamond settings for the yellow gold and whit...
Time+Tide
For LVMH Watch Week 2025, Hublot has reimagined the Big Bang Meca-10 in a more accessible 42mm diameter with a more refined 10-day power reserve calibre.The post Smaller, prettier and just as enduring: the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
When TAG Heuer released the Carrera “Glassbox” in 2023 it was immediately received as one of the better vintage reinterpretations of the post-pandemic era. Why exactly is it so beloved? Well, first off, it was the first non-limited production or limited edition ‘Glassbox’ Carrera since the line was introduced all the way back in 2015 with the Calibre 18 Telemeter. Then came notable limited editions like the Skipper reissue and 160th anniversary edition. Secondly, the 39mm-wide case with that personality-packed, domed sapphire crystal (aka "Glassbox") struck a good balance between modern manufacturing/finishing and vintage-inspired design. Now as LVMH Watch Week 2025 kicks off, TAG Heuer has released a new Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" in a striking purple dial that is borrowed from a limited-edition Monaco from 2022. We haven’t seen too many purple-dial watches so far, so it’s savvy for TAG to get in on the ground floor of what could (or just as easily could not) be the next big color at the top of 2025. Personally, I think it looks great and could very well be the most attractive iteration of the Glassbox so far. While I love and admire TAG’s consistent dedication to its vintage-racing-inspired history, it’s so nice to see something that isn’t really steeped in any legacy story but rather just looks cool and stands on its own in the moment. The 39mm wide and 13.86mm-thick case of the Carrera Glassbox (with 100 meters of water resistance) has a 46mm lug-...
SJX Watches
Hublot’s latest release, the Big Bang Meca-10 10-Day Power Reserve, may at first glance resemble the chunky original, but reveals a host of significant enhancements - most notably, a more wearable 42 mm case. The new Meca-10 retains the Meccano-inspired skeletonised movement finished to colour-match the case. The calibre boasts a 10-day power reserve indicated by an uncommon crémaillère system visible at 12 o’clock made up of a linear gear engaging a circular gear. Initial thoughts Long one of the more interesting but accessible watches in Hublot’s lineup, the Meca-10 was previously available only in a 45 mm case that rendered it less-than-wearable. Hublot has refined the Meca-10 by reducing the case diameter by substantial 3 mm, making it positively compact relative to its predecessor. Not only is the case smaller, it is also thinner at just 13.9 mm high, which is slim for a watch of this type. But the signature movement architecture has been retained, resulting in a watch that has the technical appeal of the original, but one more versatile and comfortable. While it may initially appear to be yet another skeletonised Hublot, of which there are many, the Meca-10 boasts an interesting manual-winding movement with an impressive 10-day power reserve and a distinctive movement architecture. Amongst Hublot’s more exotic watches, the Meca-10 stands out as being relatively affordable, with the key word being relatively. It starts at US$23,000 in titanium (and rises ...
SJX Watches
Zenith’s latest release is an evolutionary take on its popular sports chronograph with an integrated bracelet: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton builds upon the original version by open working the dial and main plate of the El Primero calibre. The dial is skeletonised to form a star, Zenith’s longtime emblem and a recurring theme of its skeleton watches. Apart from the open-worked dial, the new Defy remains essentially unchanged from the standard model, keeping the same 42 mm octagonal case topped by a 12-sided bezel. Initial thoughts Zenith’s El Primero was a milestone as one of the first automatic chronograph calibres. The new Defy is equipped with the second-generation El Primero, the cal. 3600, which is one of the biggest strengths of the watch. Notably, the movement has a lightning chronograph seconds completing a full revolution every 10 seconds, allowing the chronograph to measure up to 1/10th of a second (if your fingers work the pushers fast enough). That said, the watch does feel a little derivative in terms of design. While the look is not particularly creative or original, it nonetheless presents a visually striking aesthetic. The combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet are done well. Compared to other watches it resembles (from the likes of Audemars Piguet and Hublot), the Defy is arguably better value. Priced at US$15,500, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton is one of Zenith’s pricier offerings, but arguably...
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton starts 2025 with a surprise, the Tambour Convergence. Modelled on traditional “digital” pocket watches, the Convergence indicates the time with discs visible in a pair of small windows at the top of the face. The unusual design, coupled with the compact, 37 mm case gives the Convergence an elegant, vintage-inspired aesthetic atypical of Louis Vuitton. Equally notable is the newly-developed in-house calibre inside, the LFT MA01.01. The movement is of a family of movements that will underpin Louis Vuitton’s timepieces going forward; variants of the movement are also found in the new Tambour Taiko Spin Time. Initial thoughts The Convergence is unexpected because it isn’t typical of Louis Vuitton. The vintage-inspired styling and proportions are almost antithesis of the brand’s conventional look, which was historically colourful and modern. Even though such territory is relatively new to Louis Vuitton, the Convergence is executed well. The design has intrinsic appeal, and shows off good proportions and details. The Convergence demonstrates the refined style of the redesigned Tambour case, which barely resembles the chunky original that was often thick and paired with narrow lugs. While I myself liked the quirk look of the original Tambour, the revamped model is undoubtedly more elegant and consequently will have a wider appeal. The Convergence debuts in pink gold The Convergence does well in almost all respects – fit, finish, design, and dimensions ...
SJX Watches
Continuing with its revival, Daniel Roth debuts its second modern-day timepiece, the Extra Plat Souscription. Hewing to the formula established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription stays faithful to the 1990s original in size and style, but is equipped with an all-new calibre developed from the ground up. Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription debuts as a 20-piece limited edition in 18k yellow gold, matched with a guilloche dial in solid 18k yellow gold. Initial thoughts As with the Tourbillon before it, the Extra Plat Souscription looks and feels like the original at a distance, but reveals a higher degree of refinement up close. This is especially evident on the dial that is covered in finely grained guilloche, done with a hand-operated straight-line engine. In fact, the Extra Plat is arguably more sophisticated than the equivalent original, more so than the Tourbillon. The 1990s-era model was fitted with Frederic Piguet movements, either manual-wind or automatic depending on the variant, which were fine calibres but relatively industrial and widely used by higher-end brands like Blancpain. The DR002 in the new Extra Plat, on the other hand, is a new construction with the refinements expected in a watch of this calibre (and price). It’s shame that the movement is concealed behind a solid back, but that will become an open back with the subsequent, regular-production version. While the new Extra Plat is a beautiful homage th...
Time+Tide
No bread, no condiments, just a disc of lume flanked by a dial and calibre to really light up a design.The post 7 of the best sandwich dial watches to satiate your hunger for lume appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
It is a fact: the watch industry loves to celebrate anniversaries and important milestones. Being emotionally driven products, playing on nostalgia has long proven an efficient strategy for watch brands. In reality, such anniversaries have witnessed the creation of some genuinely important models – the Kermit for the 50th anniversary of the Submariner, the Calibre […]
Monochrome
Yema, a French watchmaking brand based in Morteau, in the Jura region near the Swiss border, continues to improve its historic Superman diving collection, much to the delight of those familiar with the brand and those only beginning to discover its offer. Following the recent introduction of the Superman Slim, equipped with a micro-rotor calibre […]
SJX Watches
The second watch launched by Biver, the Automatique is a three-hand time-only, functionally simple but elaborately executed. Even the base model has a surprisingly complex dial, but the Automatique is really all about the JCB-003 movement, which is a micro-rotor calibre that ranks up there as one of most impressive recent self-winding movements. Established by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver got its start with a far more complicated watch, but the Automatique is arguably more impressive because it’s a simple watch executed in a complicated yet cohesive manner. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts Yet another time-only watch with a dressed up movement and hefty price tag – the formula feels a little worn out now. So the Biver Automatique surprises on the upside. I like it. The design is appealing and cohesive, while the movement is impressive. In contrast, when Biver debuted with the Carillon Tourbillon minute repeater, I thought “the quality is unmistakeable, the aesthetics are lacking”. The Automatique lives up to the same levels of quality – and maybe even more – but it is instinctively appealing, even considering the price. The solid gold dial of the entry-level version in rose gold Even though Biver is not an artisanal independent brand in the conventional sense of the word since neither of its founders are watchmakers, the JCB-003 movement is executed to a standard that equals many artisanal independents. The construction is thoughtful and sophisticate...
Fratello
Watches can be striking in different ways. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 and the Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse are striking watches that sound the time on demand. The Bremont Terra Nova 38 “Pink” is a field watch that steps out of its comfort zone with an unexpected, striking pink dial. You’ve seen […] Visit Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Historically known for cutting-edge solar-powered watches – including the most accurate wristwatch ever – Citizen has more recently embarked on growing its lineup of mechanical watches. That began with the well-received Calibre 0200 wristwatch, and continued this year with the 100th Anniversary of the First Citizen Watch Special Limited Edition, a vintage-inspired pocket watch equipped with the all-new cal. 0270 movement. Initial thoughts The anniversary pocket watch is surprising: the watch isn’t quite what it appears to be. At a distance it could pass for a vintage pocket watch, albeit a new-old-stock example, reflecting a design that stays faithful to the aesthetics of the railroad pocket watches that Citizen supplied to Japanese railways in the 20th century. However, it reveals itself to be a modern watch up close, firstly because of the unusual dial texture that mimics Japanese paper but is actually achieved with metal deposition. More importantly, the cal. 0270 is a newly developed movement. It was evidently constructed with old-school pocket watches in mind, but it features modern elements like a free-sprung balance and sharply-shaped bridges. As with the automatic cal. 0200 before, the quality of construction and finishing of the cal. 0270 is impressive, especially given the price. Amongst hand-wind movements in the US$10,000-and-below category, the cal. 0270 easily ranks amongst the best. However, the anniversary pocket watch is still a pocket watch, which m...
SJX Watches
Andreas Strehler, known for his complex movements, recruited master engraver Roman Houdek for a collection of floral-themed watches, the Faune et Flore. With each made to order, the timepieces of Faune et Flore are presented in Strehler’s signature ovoid Papillon case and powered by an in-house calibre. The dials are open worked and intricately hand engraved by Mr Houdek. Initial thoughts Though the new line is a departure from the brand’s usual focus on complications, free-hand engraving is no less of an achievement. An art that requires tremendous skill, it is refreshing to see Strehler attempt something different. Elaborate in style, the Faune et Flore departs from Strehler’s traditional aesthetic. While that may not appeal to technical-minded enthusiasts at first glance, the quality of the engraving is easily apparent and complements the case shape. Unsurprisingly given Mr Strehler’s technical talent, the engraved dials are not actually traditional dials. The engraved 18k gold plate serves as a functional bridge for the movement, supporting part of the going train and the two barrels. As a result, there are jewels set into the plate, which form decorative elements in the engraving. Because the engraved plate is functional as well as decorative, this construction requires even more careful work than a conventional engraved dial, in order to ensure the open-worked sections don’t compromise with integrity or flatness of the bridge. That in turn has to be balance...
Monochrome
Norqain’s Independence family is home to many of the brand’s most coveted models, including the recently released Independence Skeleton Chrono with a proprietary manufacture calibre developed with GMT. The Independence is also home to the robust carbon fibre Wild One, conceived with Jean-Claude Biver, as well as the brand’s first skeletonised model introduced in 2021. […]
SJX Watches
In a departure from its usual modern designs, Carl F. Bucherer’s latest is the Heritage Worldtimer. Modelled on a typical 1950s world time wristwatch, the Heritage Worldtimer sports two crowns - on at three to set the time, another at nine to adjust the cities disc. The A2020 movement inside, however, is a modern creation. The automatic calibre features a peripheral rotor, an invention that dates to the 1950s but was only perfected in the 21st century. However, the calibre comes with a caveat: it’s not a true world time complication, and instead relies on just a rotating cities disc. Initial thoughts Tried-and-tested vintage-inspired reissues are often easy wins so they are common. While the Heritage Worldtimer might seem like one of those on its face, it stands out on several counts, including the simple fact that vintage-inspired world-time watches are uncommon. The design is also vintage inspired, rather than a remake of a specific watch, so it has a generic 1950s feel rather than looking like a scaled-up version of a vintage watch. And the novel, modern movement is a useful complement to the historical design. Though the watch is looks like a world time, it is not actually a world time complication. In other words, the hour hand does not move in tandem with the cities disc as on an actual world time. Rather it is a time-only watch with a rotating cities disc that does the job of indicating time zones, but it is not sophisticated in terms of mechanics. Starting a...
SJX Watches
Breguet’s ultra-thin tourbillon has been in its catalogue for some years now, but it remains one of the brand’s most sophisticated tourbillon models. The Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 is just 7.45 mm high, making it one of the thinnest self-winding tourbillon watches on the market, a feat made possible thanks to clever peripheral winding. Though its movement is the brand’s latest tourbillon calibre, the 5367 is presented in classic Breguet style – with the enamel dial here or as the 5365 with a guilloche dial – and retains the quintessential Breguet elegance. Initial thoughts Unlike Breguet’s flagship tourbillon model, the massive Double Tourbillon 5345, the 5367 is slim, elegant, and feels like a classical Breguet. In terms of proportions the 5367 is comparable to the 7637 minute repeater, but the tourbillon is thinner and importantly, boasts a more modern movement. The enamel dial is available in traditional white or contemporary blue While the 7637 repeater is powered by a movement that has its roots in the 1980s, the 5367 contains the cal. 581, which is instantly recognisable as a recent construction. The most obvious giveaway is the automatic rotor camouflaged on the periphery, while the tourbillon contains a silicon escapement. The modernity of the construction means the cal. 581 lacks the old-school charm of Breguet’s earlier tourbillon movements, but the sophistication of the cal. 581 is undeniable. Not only is it exceptionally thin, it manages an impre...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe has finally debuted the long-awaited Cubitus, a collection of “elegant sporty” watches. The Cubitus is an oversized square watch with an unexpectedly elegant profile – and some echoes of the Nautilus. While that might seem like an odd recipe, the Cubitus is a successful new creation. The collection is led by the flagship Cubitus ref. 5822P Instantaneous Grand Date (pictured above) in platinum powered by an all-new calibre. The Cubitus ref. 5822P in profile The bestseller, however, will be the entry-level model, the Cubitus ref. 5821/1A, a time-and-date in steel with an olive-green dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1AR is also a three-hander with date, but in two-tone steel and 18k rose gold with a blue dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1A Initial thoughts The most discussed new launch of the year, the Cubitus is many things – “elegant sporty”, a relative of the Nautilus, and controversial – but it also surprises on the upside. I like the Cubitus, especially the base model in steel. The large square bezel complements the “ears” on either side of the case, and the bracelet integrates unexpectedly well into the design. The Cubitus has obviously inherited genes from the Nautilus – Thierry Stern himself acknowledges that – but the result is more natural than the angular bezel suggests. And Cubitus doesn’t merely transplant cosmetics, but also employs the unique one-piece case construction of the Nautilus. Importantly, the Cubitus has good ergonomics....
SJX Watches
Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross is expanding on their enthusiast focused BR-X5 with a boutique edition iridescent dial variant, housing their manufacture calibre BR-CAL.323. For those that aren’t already familiar with the BR-X5 launched in 2022, this is a relatively higher tier regular production watch compared to the rest of the Bell & Ross lineup – featuring a semi-skeletonized weight minimizing case that has been hollowed out on the sides, from the lugs and down through the crown guards. While the main features and aesthetic design of the watch have remained relatively untouched from the previous variants, the iridescent dial is the star of the show on this new reference, creating playful hue transitions from blue to green, with hints of purple. The color shifting is very similar to that seen on the shell of a beetle, or on mother of pearl dials, but in this instance the light effect isn’t naturally created, rather it’s a chemical creation derived from multiple thin layers of PVD coating. Not only does the dial have a one of a kind manufacturing process, but the effect has been accentuated by overlaying it with a sunray effect. The overall vibe of what used to be a more serious, tool-like watch, is now toned down a touch to bring in some casual playfulness. The BR-CAL.323 automatic movement beats at 28,800 VPH, and is holding a generous 70 hours of power reserve which makes the watch a great daily wear contender. The movement has also been designed to display a rather large pow...
SJX Watches
Nomos gently upgrades its classic wristwatch with a new calibre and double-date display: the Tangente 2date retains the signature Tangente design but with the addition of a quickset, twin date display. The same date is indicate twice, on the date disc at six o’clock and then again with a pair of brackets on the date scale located on the dial’s periphery. It’s powered by the DUW 4601, a new calibre that’s based on Nomos’ longstanding Alpha movement. Initial thoughts The Tangente 2date is essentially another iteration of a familiar model, inside and out. Though it still makes appealing, well-priced watches, Nomos hasn’t introduced anything truly novel in some time, and the Tangente 2date reflects that. As the name implies, the only novel element is the double date display that adds detail to the dial, which is fairly stark in its original iteration. At the same time, the date is useful in filling the excess space on the dial that results from the small movement relative to the case. However, the double date is redundant in terms of functionality, and from that perspective, feels gimmicky. The view from the back is appealing, with the extra-wide date module forming a decorative ring around the base movement. The DUW 4601 movement, however, is not exactly novel. Though Nomos describes the calibre as “newly developed”, the DUW 4601 employs the basic architecture of the Alpha, which in turn was a reworked Peseux 7001. In fairness, the DUW 4601 is substantially ...
SJX Watches
A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...
SJX Watches
Having become something of a tradition, TAG Heuer debuts a new Monaco chronograph just in time for the Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix. Following last year’s edition in shades of grey, the 2024 edition is the Monaco Chronograph Racing Green. Equipped with the Sellita-derived Calibre 11, the new Monaco features chronograph registers in a dark green synonymous with motorsport, set against a clean silver dial. Initial thoughts Arguably TAG Heuer’s iconic chronograph, especially after Steve McQueen wore one in Le Mans, the Monaco gets new livery that embodies its racing heritage. The tricolour dial in green, silver, and yellow is dressed in classic motorsports colours. The titanium case is also a nice touch, instead of conventional steel. However, this Monaco is powered by the Sellita-derived and modular Calibre 11, instead of the in-house Heuer 02 that was found in last year’s equivalent Formula 1 edition. The rationale for the Calibre 11 is a logical one: it allows for an unorthodox nine o’clock crown that replicates the layout of the vintage Monaco, whereas the in-house calibre necessitates a conventional three o’clock position. But the new Monaco still costs CHF9,100, which is less than the models with the Heuer 02 but not that much less. As a result, it’s not as good a value proposition as its counterparts with the in-house calibre, though it is an appealing execution in terms of colours and materials. An old-school design The familiar square Monaco case is in...
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