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Results for Caliber 6139

996 articles · 100 videos found · page 28 of 37

Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only SJX Watches
Breguet s work but Jun 5, 2025

Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only

Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future. Initial thoughts The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations. Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects. Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings. The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch - same as in the UJ-1. The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional,...

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Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Souscription Breguet got May 30, 2025

Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription

Breguet got off to a good start for its 250th anniversary with the Classique Souscription, which despite being not an entirely new model in technical terms, is arguably the best watch the brand has launched in years, perhaps reflecting the influence of a new chief executive. Powered by a calibre based on the longstanding Tradition movement, the one-handed Classique Souscription marries an atypical (for Breguet) 20th century case with a dial inspired by 19th century pocket watches – resulting in a surprisingly coherent creation that still feels quintessentially Breguet. Initial thoughts I was pleasantly surprised by the Classique Souscription. Breguet managed to take a familiar model and transform it into something different and appealing. The brand didn’t manage to do the same with the second anniversary model, which is essentially a rehash of the Tradition but with an enamel dial. Sized just right, the Classique Souscription feels like it was conceived by an enthusiast with knowledge of vintage watches; the red leather-covered presentation box underlines that. The design is simple overall, but enhanced with details like a sharply finished single hand and “secret signature” engraved the old fashion way. The form of the case is clearly early to mid 20th century, while the dial evokes the original Souscription pocket watch. Although the case and dial styles are 150 years apart, they complement each other almost perfectly; the result still looks very much like a Breg...

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The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Rose Gold SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton has been making inroads May 14, 2025

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Rose Gold

The recently resurrected Daniel Roth brand has added a second regular production model to its catalogue, the Extra Plat Rose Gold. It’s powered by the same DR002 movement found in the Extra Plat Souscription, a 20-piece limited edition in yellow gold with a solid case back, now with a sapphire case back to show off the handsome, shaped calibre inside. Image – Daniel Roth Initial Thoughts It’s no secret that Louis Vuitton has been making inroads into independent watchmaking, through collaborations with leading independents and the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. Louis Vuitton has taken a more direct approach by reviving one of the first modern independents, and it seems to have paid off. Ironically, despite being the product of a luxury giant, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat is comparable to many offerings from niche makers, which can be seen as praise of the former or reproval of the latter. Image – Daniel Roth In another contradiction, the Extra Plat’s 7.7 mm height isn’t exactly extra-flat by the standards of a two-hand, manually wound dress watch. For comparison, the original Extra Plat Automatic from 1990 was 6.7 mm thick, and the manual version was only 6 mm. This can be attributed to the new movement, which is thicker than those in historical Extra Plat models, but constructed and finished to a much higher standard, while also being an in-house calibre (the originals were powered by Frederic Piguet). Image – Daniel Roth The new regular production has more mainst...

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Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface May 14, 2025

Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface

What happens when you take the 2755 QP movement out of the 2017 Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 (ref. 80172/000R-B406), update the design so it caters to an audience with a more contemporary taste, and put it in the sportiest of watch designs available? You get the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface. This limited-production watch is […] Visit Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface to read the full article.

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First Look – Vacheron Constantin Unveils the New Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Unveils Apr 3, 2025

First Look – Vacheron Constantin Unveils the New Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

Vacheron Constantin celebrates its grand 270th anniversary this year. For a brand with such an illustrious and storied past, an anniversary of this calibre means rolling out the big guns. To commemorate the date, Vacheron Constantin unveils a new high-end manufacture calibre combining a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. Limited to 127 pieces and presented […]

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Introducing – The New Sellita-Powered Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with Colourful Dials Monochrome
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Apr 3, 2025

Introducing – The New Sellita-Powered Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with Colourful Dials

Alongside the green and terracotta Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 housed in a 40mm case with a sleek, polished bezel instead of the classic coin-edge design, Oris also introduces a trio of new, simpler versions of its emblematic watch. And while these lack the high-performance Calibre 403 movement and replace it with a Sellita […]

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First Look – An Upgraded Movement and Design for the Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Released Apr 2, 2025

First Look – An Upgraded Movement and Design for the Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar

Released in 2016 with a price tag of EUR 8,000, Frederique Constant’s Perpetual Calendar Manufacture was one of the most affordable QPs on the market. Powered by FC’s in-house calibre FC-775, the perpetual calendar appeared in the Slimline family and the sportier Highlife collection. For Watches & Wonders 2025, the perpetual calendar returns in a […]

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First Look – Chopard Celebrates 25 Years of the Quattro with a Refreshed & Compact L.U.C Quattro Monochrome
Chopard Celebrates 25 Years Apr 2, 2025

First Look – Chopard Celebrates 25 Years of the Quattro with a Refreshed & Compact L.U.C Quattro

The ultra-thin, 3.7mm Calibre 98.01-L, certified by both the Poinçon de Genève and COSC, was the second developed by the Chopard manufacture and followed the groundbreaking Calibre L.U.C 96.01-L, which was created in collaboration with Michel Parmigiani and laid the foundation for future movement development. The manually wound 98.01-L featured Chopard’s so-called Quattro technology: a […]

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Introducing: The Updated Oris Big Crown Pointer Date In New Sizes And Colors Fratello
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Apr 2, 2025

Introducing: The Updated Oris Big Crown Pointer Date In New Sizes And Colors

The Big Crown Pointer Date is a true staple in Oris’s history. It has been in the brand’s collection continuously since 1938. In 2021, Oris introduced a new and refined version of its beloved Big Crown Pointer Date. This 38mm watch featured the impressive Oris Calibre 403, a smooth bezel, and a cleaner dial layout. […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Oris Big Crown Pointer Date In New Sizes And Colors to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Rolex 1908 Perpetual on a New Settimo Bracelet in Yellow Gold Monochrome
Rolex 1908 Perpetual Mar 31, 2025

Introducing – The Rolex 1908 Perpetual on a New Settimo Bracelet in Yellow Gold

With the discontinuation of Cellini collection, Rolex introduced the Perpetual 1908 series in 2023, blending classic aesthetics with cutting-edge watchmaking technology. Until now, these models powered by the Rolex calibre 7140 were exclusively available on leather straps. This year, Rolex expands the collection with a yellow gold version, now paired with the newly designed Settimo […]

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Insight: Rolex Land-Dweller Cal. 7135, Patents and Innovation Explained SJX Watches
Rolex Land-Dweller Cal 7135 Patents Mar 31, 2025

Insight: Rolex Land-Dweller Cal. 7135, Patents and Innovation Explained

Rolex has entered uncharted territory with the Land-Dweller, arguably the most advanced and radical creation from a hitherto conservative brand. The Land-Dweller is significant, perhaps even game changing, not because of the integrated bracelet or patented solid lume, but because of the cal. 7135, a new calibre with an all-new double-wheel escapement known as Dynapulse and a ceramic balance staff. (This story details the technical advances in the movement; for a review of the watch, check out the accompanying story.) The Land-Dweller 40 mm in platinum The fundamentals Why is it significant, or even game changing? The cal. 7135 is the first in-house, serial production Rolex movement that is high frequency, beating at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. All things being equal, a higher frequency promises superior timekeeping. Despite the higher frequency, the cal. 7135 still has a 66-hour power reserve. That’s thanks in part to the Dynapulse escapement which is 30% more efficient than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, while occupying essentially the same volume of space. The balance assembly of the cal. 7135 Dynapulse is one of several innovations that make the cal. 7135 a landmark, especially since it will be produced at scale. While Rolex has traditionally been associated with incremental innovation, the cal. 7135 is a revolution. The Land-Dweller is the subject of 32 filed patents, 18 of which are unique to the watch. Moreover, 16 of the patents unique to the watch are ...

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In-Depth: Rolex Land-Dweller SJX Watches
Rolex Land-Dweller Mar 31, 2025

In-Depth: Rolex Land-Dweller

The most discussed debut of Watches & Wonders 2025, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an entirely new model with a new case and bracelet, but that’s not why it is significant. While Rolex is conventionally associated with incremental innovation, the Land-Dweller is game changing. Not because of the design, but because it’s equipped with perhaps the ultimate mechanical movement produced at scale in contemporary watchmaking, a calibre that’s the subject of 16 patents. (The finer technical details can be found in our accompanying story.) The cal. 7135 inside the Land-Dweller is a new, sophisticated calibre equipped with an indirect-impulse, double-wheel escapement that’s entirely in silicon – christened Dynapulse – matched with a ceramic balance pivot. And it’s a high-frequency calibre running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. Cumulatively, that makes for a superior timekeeper on the wrist. The Land-Dweller debuts in two sizes, 36 mm and 40 mm, in three basic variants: white Rolesor, Everose gold, and platinum. There are also a handful of high-jeweller versions. The Land-Dweller in white Rolesor on Roger Federer’s wrist. Image – Rolex Initial thoughts The Land-Dweller is both surprising and predictable. The styling is surprising; the integrated bracelet echoes historical watches like the Oysterquartz and ref. 5100 Beta 21 but I never expected it. The Land-Dweller looks and feels surprising for a Rolex Oyster. At 9.7 mm it’s the slimmest Oyster Perpetual in the cat...

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Introducing – The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Black Edition in Steel Monochrome
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Mar 28, 2025

Introducing – The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Black Edition in Steel

Armin Strom is a revered name among horophiles, an independent brand acclaimed for rekindling the spirit of resonance in wristwatches. Last year, Armin Strom introduced its 18th in-house movement – calibre ARF22 – with the white gold Dual Time GMT Resonance with impressive mechanics and finishings on both sides of the case. Offering two independent […]

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Introducing The New Breitling Top Time B31 With A Brand New Engine WatchAdvice
Breitling Top Time B31 Mar 25, 2025

Introducing The New Breitling Top Time B31 With A Brand New Engine

Breitling has released its latest Top Time collection and with it, a new in-house movement in the form of the Calibre B31 What We Love The vintage style will tick a lot of boxes for collectors The dial colour choices are on the mark The new B31 is a great step forward for Breitling What We Don’t The 38mm size may not suit all wrist sizes The date magnifier slightly detracts from the clean dial layout A quick change mechanism on the straps would have been welcomed, as would a screw in crown Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Before we get into the new watches, for those who are not up with their Breitling history, then let’s take a step back and look at just how the Breitling Top Time came to be, given it is one of the more niche, or cult collections in the brand’s stable. The Breitling Top Time burst onto the scene in the 1960s as a bold, youthful alternative to the brand’s more aviation-focused chronographs. Designed for a new generation of style-conscious adventurers, it stood out with striking dial layouts, often featuring contrasting sub-dials that gave it an unmistakable sporty edge that was inspired by and closely associated with all forms of motorsport. It quickly found its way onto the wrists of racers, thrill-seekers, and even Hollywood icons—most notably, James Bond in Thunderball (1965), where a specially modified Top Time doubled as a Geiger counter. This moment cemented its reputati...

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Introducing – Frosted Silver and Copper Dials for the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase Monochrome
Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Mar 20, 2025

Introducing – Frosted Silver and Copper Dials for the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase

Glashütte Original’s Senator collection is populated with classical watches that evoke the grand Saxon watchmaking traditions of the 19th century. A slight evolution of the somewhat august Senator range, a sub-collection known as the Senator Excellence, was released in tandem with the brand’s calibre 36 in 2016. The Panorama Date Moon Phase appeared in 2018, […]

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First Look – The New All-Black Versions of the Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Breitling Mar 20, 2025

First Look – The New All-Black Versions of the Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (Incl. Video)

The Intra-Matic’s origins are rooted in Project 99, developed with Büren, Heuer, Breitling and movement specialist Dubois-Depraz. The result of this joint effort was presented in 1969 with one of the first automatic chronograph movements called Chrono-Matic, or Calibre 11, depending on the brand using it. Alongside, Hamilton presented in the late 1960s the Chronograph […]

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First Look: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Feb 26, 2025

First Look: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked

Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary debuts are centred on perpetual calendars (at least for now), marking the closing of one chapter and the opening of another. The ingenious new calibre 7138 perpetual calendar marks a definitive new chapter in the brand’s history, while the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is the swan song for a storied cal. 2120 movement that Audemars Piguet (AP) has relied on for decades. Presented in titanium with a polished BMG bezel, the final edition perpetual calendar is inspired by the Royal Oak pocket watch ref. 25729. This pocket watch lends its sapphire-and-blue aesthetic to the anniversary perpetual calendar, although the pocket watch was ironically powered by a manual wind calibre (as pocket watches tend to be). The ref. 25729PT was a 20-piece limited edition with a matching platinum chain, made in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Initial thoughts The anniversary edition marks the end of the cal. 5134/5135 (and the preceding cal. 2120/2800), the long-lived perpetual calendar movement that AP launched in 1978. While great in its time, the movement was dated and somewhat low-tech by modern standards. The retirement of the movement is well deserved, and it is certainly going out in style. At a distance the anniversary perpetual calendar is familiar, but up close it reveals details that make it a little bit more interesting than its peers. These include the blue ringed-sapphire dial, retro signatu...

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First Look – The New 38mm AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in Sand Gold Monochrome
Audemars Piguet equips Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The New 38mm AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in Sand Gold

Marking a first for the recently introduced 38mm iteration of Code 11.59, Audemars Piguet equips its most compact reference with an automatic flying tourbillon. Not just any tourbillon, mind you, but AP’s ultra-thin calibre 2968, aka RD#3. Representing the best of both worlds, the new Code 11.59 Tourbillon fuses a state-of-the-art movement with a graceful […]

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First Look – The Next-Gen Perpetual Calendar Movement of AP also makes it to Code 11.59 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet announced Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The Next-Gen Perpetual Calendar Movement of AP also makes it to Code 11.59

Last year, Audemars Piguet announced the end of the calibre 5134, the automatic movement that has powered most of its modern perpetual calendar watches for the past 10 years – mostly, the classic RO Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar, which performed its swan song with a limited edition made with John Mayer. But the 5134 was not […]

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First Look – The Titanium/BMG AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary” Monochrome
Audemars Piguet announced Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The Titanium/BMG AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary”

Last year, with the John Mayer limited edition, Audemars Piguet announced the end of its older perpetual calendar movement, the calibre 5134. And indeed, as we have seen with the launch of the next-gen Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding, there is now a new and modern calibre 7138. But it’s not entirely the end of […]

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Explained: Audemars Piguet’s Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar Cal. 7138 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar Feb 25, 2025

Explained: Audemars Piguet’s Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar Cal. 7138

Audemars Piguet kicks off its 150th anniversary in a big way with an all-new perpetual calendar movement, the Audemars Piguet Calibre 7138. Making its debut in both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, the cal. 7138 is a landmark in traditional perpetual calendars. In fact, the movement is perhaps the most sophisticated and user-friendly perpetual calendar from an establishment brand. The calendar relies on the classic “grand lever” mechanism that’s been reinvented in an ultra-thin manner, but more importantly, the cal. 7138 employs an ingenious and innovative setting mechanism. Consequently, it is impressively intuitive and also foolproof. All the calendar indications are set via the crown, and the movement can’t be broken by setting it at the wrong time. Together, these features mark the cal. 7138 out as one of the most notable perpetual calendar movements on the market today. The cal. 7138 debuts in the Code 11.59 (left) and Royal Oak. Image – Audemars Piguet Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar has long been a key part of the history of Audemars Piguet (AP), especially after the bestselling ref. 5548 was launched in 1978. So a brand-new perpetual calendar for its 150th anniversary is fitting. At the same time, the calibre illustrates AP’s tremendous advances as a vertically integrated, industrial-haute horlogerie manufacture that has developed an splendid stable of in-house calibres in a relatively short period of time. The irony is that the cal. 7138 is almost...

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Yema Introduces Its Superman Swiss Edition To Mark A Strategic Turnaround Fratello
Yema Feb 25, 2025

Yema Introduces Its Superman Swiss Edition To Mark A Strategic Turnaround

We know Yema as an accessible French brand that offers fairly affordable watches. However, with the introduction of the company’s in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau movements, its prices shifted upward a bit. To ensure that the watchmakers have enough time to work on the higher-end in-house movements and still offer watches at a more affordable price […] Visit Yema Introduces Its Superman Swiss Edition To Mark A Strategic Turnaround to read the full article.

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