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Lange 1 A. Lange & Söhne

The 1994 watch that relaunched A. Lange & Söhne. Golden-ratio dial and outsize date.

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Zeitwerk A. Lange & Söhne

The 2009 mechanical jumping-digital wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne. Hours and minutes on three discs.

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Datograph A. Lange & Söhne

The 1999 flyback chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne with the in-house Cal. L951.1 movement.

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Saxonia A. Lange & Söhne

One of the four founding references of the 1994 A. Lange & Söhne relaunch. Time-only Saxon classic.

A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage with Omega, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 1, 2025

A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage with Omega, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre

To my longtime friends in the watch hobby, and perhaps to regular readers here as well, the mention of my name may conjure up a number of connotations: patron of the independents, fan of A. Lange & Söhne, admirer of Patek Philippe grand complications, and longtime customer of Jaeger-LeCoultre, among other characterizations more or less favorable. But vintage?

Best of 2024: Complications SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Complications

Perhaps echoing the paucity of highlights in indie watchmaking, the best complications of 2024 were not numerous, but those that stood out were outstanding. Vacheron Constantin, for instance, unveiled the most complicated watch ever, while Bovet solved the longstanding problem of summer time across continents in an enormous (and enormously expensive) wristwatch. Here’s the team’s take on the best complications of the year. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst – Brandon Moore The iconic Datograph turned 25 this year, and collectors were treated to three different limited edition variants to mark the occasion. We were first introduced to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” and the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary at Watches & Wonders, but Lange was arguably saving the best for last: the first Datograph to receive the brand’s artisanal Handwerkskunst treatment. Featuring a hand-engraved tremblage dial and limited to just 25 pieces, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is a fitting way to celebrate a quarter-century of being best-in-class. While not particularly creative, this very-limited edition captures both the magic of Lange and its Datograph perfectly. Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 – SJX The introduction to our story on the watch sums it up best: “The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch… the solution is e...

Historical Perspectives: The Rise and Fall of Brazil’s Watch Clubs SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin were Dec 17, 2024

Historical Perspectives: The Rise and Fall of Brazil’s Watch Clubs

At the dawn of the 20th century, Brazil’s cities were brimming with energy, driven by booming commodity markets. In Rio de Janeiro, trams clattered along bustling streets while conversations about ambition and progress filled the air in crowded cafés. Few aspirations were as compelling for the growing middle class, eager to leave their mark in this modernising world, as owning European luxury goods. And among these, nothing spoke of sophistication and success quite like a fine watch. For many Brazilians, timepieces from brands like Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Vacheron Constantin were the ultimate symbols of precision and craftsmanship. Yet, their presence was confined to gleaming shop windows along the most prestigious shopping streets, tantalising but out of reach for all but the wealthiest. The dream of owning one of these masterpieces seemed no closer than the distant European watchmaking centres where they were crafted. But Brazil found a way to close this gap. Here, the concept of watch clubs took shape-an innovative model blending weekly instalments with the thrill of a lottery draw. This system turned the unattainable into something not just possible but accessible. Spearheaded by visionary retailers and embraced by Europe’s finest watchmakers, the clubs reflected Brazil’s unique ability to adapt global trends to its local reality. Three retailers organised the most iconic watch clubs and positioned themselves at the forefront of this movement: G...

Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward who developed their in-house Nov 6, 2024

Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour

The jump hour is a nearly criminally underrepresented type of watch. These semi-digital mechanical devices simplify time telling through more complex movements, a perfect example of watchmaking’s inherent and lovable absurdity. Their unique displays create different layout challenges, leading to unique and fantastic designs, from the sci-fi Space One to the extravagant A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. As such, a new jump hour is always cause for celebration and temptation. However, the challenge for brands that want to enter the jumping game is a lack of readily available movements and modules. So, what’s a brand to do? For Fears, this is where the power of collaboration comes into play. By teaming up with the industrious Christopher Ward, who developed their in-house jump hour module, the JJ001, back in 2010-11, Fears could access an already proven but exclusive solution. In 2023, they debuted their jump hour as the highly limited Alliance 1 for members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and in 2024, their follow-up mainline version, the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, which we reported on here. I’m all for watches that provide different and uncommon experiences, whether it be the smooth glide and accuracy of a Spring Drive, the hourly dinging of the Bel Canto, the central minute counter of a Lemania 5100, or the decentralized displays of a regulator. Jump hours stand out even among that crowd by fundamentally changing how time is read. Though most akin t...

Introducing – The Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Moon Phase in Rose Gold Monochrome
Union Glashütte Oct 23, 2024

Introducing – The Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Moon Phase in Rose Gold

In 1893, Johannes Dürrstein, a distributor for A. Lange & Söhne, founded his own watchmaking business, which eventually evolved into what we now know as Union Glashütte. Today, the Swatch Group-owned brand is famous for keeping the traditions and aesthetics of Saxon watchmaking, offering a range of competitively priced models across seven collections. The 1893 […]

Habring² Pilot Watches: A Tale of Two Fun (and Rare) Complications Worn & Wound
IWC Sep 16, 2024

Habring² Pilot Watches: A Tale of Two Fun (and Rare) Complications

My journey with Habring² started back in 2009 when my girlfriend (now wife) and I decided to spend a cozy weekend in Vienna. At the time, I was living and working in Prague, thus it was an easy drive to Vienna. On a chilly November morning, after a delightful breakfast, we wandered through the city. That’s when I noticed these enormous banners showcasing various watch brands for an event called Vienna Time. Among them was a banner for Habring². I had been a fan of the brand but had never seen any of their watches in person. So, I jumped at the chance to visit and meet the brand’s founders, Richard and Maria Habring. Fast forward to today, after knowing the Habrings for so many years, I can honestly say they are some of the most down-to-earth and caring people you’ll ever meet. And it shows in their watchmaking too. I like to call it “honest watchmaking.” Their watches are reasonably priced, especially considering the various complications they offer. Even the packaging is charmingly unpretentious-a compact wooden box that simply says, “made with love.” In this box, the Habrings also include spare parts necessary for the first service with our preferred local watchmaker-a practical consideration. The Habrings do not like to discuss Richard’s past accomplishments at various big brands like IWC and Lange. However, they are well documented online. As a primer, I would recommend reading this Hodinkee article by Jason Heaton, and this WatchProZine write-up ...

Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More Fratello
Frederique Constant Sep 12, 2024

Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More

The flyback function is arguably the epitome of technicality in sports watches, and it can be an expensive collection goal. Many of you will know the snap-quick function from Patek Philippe and über-horology from the likes of A. Lange & Söhne. However, as manufacturing techniques improve, so does the possibility of (comparatively) affordable flyback chronographs. […] Visit Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More to read the full article.

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire Earlier Aug 19, 2024

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire

Earlier this year Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the refreshed Duometre line, with the entry into the new collection being the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the only steel model in the line-up so far. The dual train movement is used to power two separate sets of indications, one is the time with hours, minutes, and seconds, and the other a combination of the date, moon phase, and lightning seconds. Made  up of several models sporting an all-new look, this year’s Duometre collection is the first substantial facelift of the model line since its launch in 2007. While the original models had an aesthetic that brought to mind A. Lange & Söhne, the redesigned Duometre models have a more vintage-ish look that incorporates elements that are popular today, including a domed crystal and decorative recesses on the lugs. In terms of mechanical function, however, the new Duometre models are fundamentally the same. The “duo” barrels of the Duometre Initial thoughts The new look is a good one. It’s attractive and still fairly original; although it is vintage inspired, the design avoids looking generic, thanks in part to the distinctive Duometre dial layout. The domed crystal and dial result in the new model looking slightly bigger than the original, but at the same time it feels thinner. The dial layout is essentially the same as on the earlier generation Quantieme Lunaire as the movement is essentially identical. The recognisable double barrels-and-trains construction is evident, wh...

Bremont Introduces the Limited Edition Broadsword Recon Bronze Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s there was one Aug 7, 2024

Bremont Introduces the Limited Edition Broadsword Recon Bronze

Readers, I’d like to invite you to step back in time. Let’s go all the way back to the middle of April of 2024, in the days following this year’s Watches and Wonders. Amidst much content creation by many a watch media figure, there was a single story for which a consensus view began to emerge. While opinions might have differed on the viability of the new Lange Super Watch or the retail pricing of those gorgeous manually wound Grand Seikos, there was one brand on which just about everyone shared a take. Coming out of the fair, just about all of us agreed that Bremont was in trouble. There’s no need to dwell here on what we’ve already covered, except to say that the reaction to the new look at Bremont was the rare occasion in the watch media landscape where it felt like (almost) everyone was getting their unfiltered digs in. That usually doesn’t happen in our space. The reason is simple, at least at Worn & Wound, and that’s because here we tend to cover stuff we like. We want to share our enthusiasm for the things that get us excited, new releases included. But Bremont rebranding as they did at the biggest watch event in the world was newsworthy in a way that couldn’t be ignored, and we had to (as we always do) cover it honestly. We saw the watches in the metal, and gave our reactions, as did many others, and the many stories that were filed speak for themselves.  It’s been several months since Bremont debuted their new look, and the storm has died down c...

Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin cal 1731 Jul 17, 2024

Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches

Repeaters are one of the most complicated mechanisms in watches and over the years the complication has been refined by successive generations of watchmakers. Now, perhaps more than ever, watchmakers dedicate absolute attention to perfecting the quality, speed, accuracy, and durability of the striking works. Various components are required to chime the tunes of time with hammers and gongs. Paradoxically, amongst the most crucial parts of a chiming watch are those that work quietly, or silently, in the background – the governor. One of the most recent new repeater calibres, the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater What is a governor? The governor regulates the speed of the striking pattern, in other words the pace of the individual chimes. A repeater movement contains a separate gear train for the repeating works, which are powered by their own smaller, auxiliary spring. The last component of this train consists of the governor. The governor’s task is to introduce resistance in the repeater train, allowing it to be regulated. Therefore, less resistance accelerates the striking speed, while more resistance slows down the repeater chimes. The Vacheron Constantin cal. 1731 with the secondary spring visible between the hammers The fine-tuning of the repeater’s speed is prized as an essential factor in ensuring a perfect series of chimes. If the pace is too fast, the vibrations of the gongs produce jarring overtones that cancel each other out. If too slow, not o...

Business News: Richemont First Quarter Results, Jewellery Faring Better Than Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin were singled out Jul 16, 2024

Business News: Richemont First Quarter Results, Jewellery Faring Better Than Watches

The first quarter results of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that just announced a new chief executive, illustrate a well-established trend in the luxury goods industry, with the group’s jewellery brands outperforming its watchmakers in the three months to end June 2024. Dominated by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, the Swiss group’s jewellery division eked out a 4% increase in sales, reflecting the strength of the group’s twin jewellery giants. Notably, the revenue growth was “supported by both jewellery and watches”, reflecting the brand equity of each jeweller has carried over into their respective watch offerings. The three jewellery brands – the smallest is Buccellati – accounted for 70% of Richemont’s turnover. Although profit was not announced, the jewellers are also responsible for an even greater share of the group’s profits. Watch weakness In contrast, the watch division saw revenue fall 13%. Amongst the division’s brands are IWC, Panerai, Piaget, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Interestingly, A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin were singled out for their “resilience”. Unsurprisingly, both are haute horlogerie brands that derive the highest proportion of revenue from in-house boutiques, as opposed to third-party retailers. Whether this resilience is durable is an open question, although odds are not in the brands’ favour given their respective product mix, sales strategies, and consumer sentiment. Only available at boutiques At a group leve...

Introducing Bruno Söhnle to the Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Jul 9, 2024

Introducing Bruno Söhnle to the Windup Watch Shop

Over 175 years ago, Ferdinand Adolph Lange laid the cornerstone of watchmaking in the small Saxon town of Glashütte. After a 45-year hiatus under the East German socialist regime, his great-grandson kickstarted the revival of Glashütte’s fine watchmaking industry. Over 30 years later, several other brands, including Bruno Söhnle, joined them. Over 175 years ago, Ferdinand Adolph Lange laid the cornerstone of watchmaking in the small Saxon town of Glashütte. After a 45-year hiatus under the East German socialist regime, his great-grandson kickstarted the revival of Glashütte’s fine watchmaking industry. Over 30 years later, several other brands, including Bruno Söhnle, joined them. The post Introducing Bruno Söhnle to the Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Duality No. 3 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Offshore models selling easily May 29, 2024

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Duality No. 3

The most significant example of independent watchmaking in Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is Philippe Dufour Duality no. 3 in white gold. One of just nine made, this Duality is unusual in several respects. For one, it is delivered with two dials, each representing one of Mr Dufour’s trademark style – silvered and a white lacquer resembling enamel. Besides being an exceptionally rare watch, this Duality is also significant for its provenance: the current owner is both a gentleman and a collector with a discerning eye. In fact, he recognised the importance and appeal of the Duality well before most others did. At the time he bought this watch, now almost 20 years ago, a Philippe Dufour Simplicity was selling for barely more than a Lange Datograph. In fact, there were sought-after Panerai and Audemars Piguet Offshore models selling easily for more than a Simplicity. The owner’s discerning and forward-thinking taste in watches can also be inferred from his other watches in the sale. Amongst them is an F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain ref. TN – with a special-order 38 mm case instead of the conventional 40 mm, as well as a matched, three-piece set of the F.P. Journe Vagabondage in platinum. A tribute to the Vallée Launched in 1996, the Duality is one of the two landmark double balance wheel watches in contemporary watchmaking, alongside the F.P. Journe Resonance that debuted four years later. While the Resonance is arguably more abstract and inventive in its concep...

Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Opera Two May 21, 2024

Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong

Having covered the highlights from independent watchmakers and historical pocket watches at The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII on May 24 and 25, we now turn to complicated watches past and present. Amongst the historical are an Omega 30I tourbillon wristwatch tested at the Geneva, Neuchatel and Kew observatories, as well as a pair of chronographs with historical movements, an Excelsior Park with the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph calibre and a Montblanc with the large, 17”’ Minerva monopoussoir chronograph movement. More recent is the Patek Philippe ref. 5059R London edition with applied Roman numerals and the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two, an ultra-complicated watch that’s a value-buy. The auction is scheduled for May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), with online bidding and the catalogue available on Phillips.com. The Patek Philippe ref. 5059R made for the Grand Exhibition in London. 822 – Lange Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” Launched in 2021 to overwhelming demand, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” was the A. Lange & Söhne’s second luminous digital-display watch after the “Phantom” of 2010. It was a limited edition of 200 watches and based on the second-generation Zeitwerk, which is visually almost identical to the original model but enhanced with several technical upgrades, including a longer, 72-hour power reserve. Like the earlier “Phantom”, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” has a tinted sapphire dial that reveals the luminous numer...

Celebrating 30 Years of the Lothar Schmidt Era at Sinn HQ Worn & Wound
Sinn HQ May 16, 2024

Celebrating 30 Years of the Lothar Schmidt Era at Sinn HQ

On an unusually warm day in early March, I was invited to visit Sinn headquarters in Frankfurt, Germany. Sinn had prepared a special program including a special exhibition showcasing their technologies over the last 30 years in the main foyer. This was followed by a factory tour, and finally seeing their latest collection.  Most of us are familiar with the origins of Sinn, which all started with Helmut Sinn, who was a flight instructor, and former World War II pilot. The company’s core business under his ownership was the manufacturing of navigation clocks and pilot chronographs. In 1994, certified engineer Lothar Schmidt acquired the company from Helmut Sinn and renamed it to “Sinn Spezialuhren GmbH”. Lothar Schmidt worked previously with IWC, and was also part of Günter Blümlein’s team to revive A. Lange & Söhne. This year Sinn is celebrating 30 years since Mr. Schmidt acquired the company. It was a coincidence that the day of my visit, news broke regarding Mr. Schmidt’s succession plans. He will celebrate his 75th birthday this year, and announced plans to create a foundation similar to the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, that will own the shares of Sinn and its subsidiary companies. Mr. Schmidt also owns the SUG casemaker in the famous watchmaking village of Glashütte.  Over the past 30 years, Mr. Schmidt, with his engineering background, has developed several technologies for Sinn watches. In 1995, Ar-Dehumidifying Technology was introduced for the first tim...

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grand Complication with Double Split-Chronographs Ref. 767 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grand Complication May 16, 2024

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grand Complication with Double Split-Chronographs Ref. 767

One of the most fascinating timepieces in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe grand complication pocket watch ref. 767. Made in 1950 and sold in 1952, this one-of-a-kind pocket watch boasts a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and double split-seconds chronograph. More accurately, it is a mono-pusher, double split-seconds, or even triple-split seconds. This ref. 767 features not two, but three, chronograph seconds hands. As a result, it can simultaneously measure three elapsed times of up to one minute. The complication is possibly unique amongst Patek Philippe watches. A historically significant watch in itself, this ref. 767 also has notable provenance: it once belonged to Seth Atwood, the American industrialist who founded the now-closed Time Museum. According to Philips, this ref. 767 was Atwood’s everyday watch, not surprising since he was a legendary collector of his day with a collection that included the Patek Philippe Graves Supercomplication and the Duc d’Orléans Breguet Sympathique. Three seconds hands, two in blued steel and one in gold Initial thoughts I’ve been impressed by many pocket watches – some that come to include a Patek Philippe observatory tourbillon and the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie – but I’ve rarely been surprised. This ref. 767 was, however, entirely unexpected. When it was first described to me, I was confused and immediately thought of the Lange Double Split. But as it turns out, this is entirely d...

Counting Down the 15 Oldest Watch Brands in the World Teddy Baldassarre
May 14, 2024

Counting Down the 15 Oldest Watch Brands in the World

Watchmaking is a trade that goes back to the 16th Century, and building mystique and legitimacy on a long, historical legacy is a common theme we find in many companies that make watches today - particularly those whose roots reach back for a century or more. But which companies have really been making watches the longest? In a way, it’s a sticky question, one that can lead one into a minefield of semantics and trivia. Jaquet Droz, for example, claims a founding date of 1738 but the modern version of the company was established in 2000 when Swatch Group acquired the name. A. Lange & Söhne carries on the tradition of the original company founded in Saxony in 1845 but has really been in operation only since 1990 (and to be fair, the company is very transparent about this). The Swiss-based Graham brand traces its legacy all the way back to the London atelier of British watchmaker George Graham in 1695 but has no connection to it other than design inspiration. In assembling the following list of the oldest watch brands still making watches today, I went with the companies that, in my judgment, can legitimately claim a direct lineage to the original founding, even allowing for ownership changes and periods of dormancy along the way. Without further ado, here is a countdown of the 15 oldest watch brands in the world today; you may be surprised by who is included as well as by who is excluded. 15. Zenith (1865) Zenith's founder Georges Favre-Jacot was only 22 when he founded...

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute” SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces May 2, 2024

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute”

A tribute to the German city of Dresden, the PanoMaticInverse Limited Edition depicts the city where the predecessor of Glashütte Original was founded in 1845. It retains the inverted movement construction that characterises the model, displaying the escapement on the dial, but here the three-quarter plate on the front sports a hand-engraved rendering of Dresden landmarks, the Frauenkirche and Academy of Fine Arts, while the bridges on the reverse are engraved with the Elbe promenade. Initial thoughts Although the brand itself was founded after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Glashütte Original (GO) has its roots in the very beginning of watchmaking in the Glashütte area. Because the brand was formed from the East German state-owned watchmaking enterprise, it was vertically integrated from the beginning, making it a true manufacture. It is somewhat under-appreciated compared to its neighbour, A. Lange & Söhne, although the two brands focus on different segments of the market, with Glashütte Original offering more affordable timepieces. The brand’s steel watches, for example, usually retail for under US$15,000. However, GO is capable of German haute horologerie, as demonstrated by its top-of-the-line timepieces like the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon. The PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute” is one of the brand’s high-end offerings, with a retail price of US$47,400. Even though that’s a big number, the watch delivers substantial tangible quality. In addition to th...

Renaud Tixier Debuts with the Monday Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Mar 19, 2024

Renaud Tixier Debuts with the Monday Micro-Rotor

Already collaborators on several projects, Dominique Renaud, one of the founders of Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a young watchmaker and constructor, have established Renaud Tixier, a brand backed by investors. The inaugural creation of Renaud Tixier is Monday, a time-only watch with an automatic movement sporting a novel micro-rotor. Conceived to realise Mr Renaud’s many concepts and inventions, Renaud Tixier also aims to blend the styles of the two watchmakers. Each of the namesake founders comes from a different generation of watchmaking – pre- and post-Quartz Crisis – but the duo enjoy a shared philosophy that have made their past projects a success, something they are hoping to replicate with Renaud Tixier. Initial thoughts On a macro level, the Renaud Tixier and its first watch are noteworthy for a few reasons. One of its main points of appeal, at least initially, is the name, specifically Dominique Renaud. Even though he departed Renaud & Papi (APRP) over 20 years ago, his name still carries weight, particularly since many alumni of APRP, Anthony de Haas of Lange and Carole Forestier of TAG Heuer for instance, speak well of him. The name will certainly help sell the watch, particularly in countries with a strong reverence for creators and history, like Japan for example. And the fact that it’s a micro-rotor is noteworthy. Though relatively common in high-end watchmaking, micro-rotors are rare amongst independent watchmakers. The most prominent indie mak...

Business News: Phillips Perpetual Opens in Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref 6300G-010 Feb 29, 2024

Business News: Phillips Perpetual Opens in Hong Kong

Five years since opening its first concept store in London, Phillips has now officially launched Phillips Perpetual in Hong Kong. Conceived as a conduit for collectors to buy and sell watches between the biannual auction seasons, Perpetual is located in Pedder Building, a 1920s Beaux-Arts style located in the Central business district. Established in 2019 with a showroom in London and led by James Marks, Perpetual is the private-sale arm of the auction house that allows clients to buy and sell anytime, instead of during the traditional May and November auctions. Perpetual operates physical stores in London and Hong Kong, along with a seasonal pop-up in Gstaad, as well as its e-commerce platform. The Hong Kong outpost strengthens its foothold in Asia, home to many of Phillips’ important clients. Something for everyone As with its London store, the Hong Kong boutique’s offerings will continually evolve. At opening, however, Perpetual in Hong Kong showcases diversity in terms of brands, complications, and styles. The flagship offering is a Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G-010, the brand’s most complicated wristwatch boasting a grande and petite sonnerie, alarm, date repeater, second time zone, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. Another highlight is the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon “Homage to F.A. Lange” in Honey Gold launched in 2010 to mark the 165th birthday of its founder. Setting it apart from the earlier Lange 1 Tourbillon is a larger a...

Hands-on – The Fascinating and Technical Moritz Grossmann Backpage Green Monochrome
Glashütte Original Jan 8, 2024

Hands-on – The Fascinating and Technical Moritz Grossmann Backpage Green

Karl Moritz Grossmann, a prominent figure from the 19th century, was the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking. In our contemporary era, in 2007, Christine Hutter, a skilled watchmaker with experience at Maurice Lacroix, Glashütte Original and A. Lange & Söhne, acquired the right to use the name “Moritz Grossmann“. In 2008, […]

Here Are the 28 Best GMT Watches You Can Buy in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 2, 2024

Here Are the 28 Best GMT Watches You Can Buy in 2026

Among all the functions offered by today's timepieces (we in the watch trade call them complications, because even the ones that look relatively simple, like a date in a window, involve a lot of complex micro-mechanics), the GMT or second time zone is one of the most practical and useful - especially as many of us are back in the habit, post-COVID, of spending time again in time zones other than our own - for business, pleasure, or some combo of both. Here we've gathered 28 of the best GMT watches on the market now for your perusal and your consideration if you're in the market for a ticking companion for your next trip. To narrow the list and keep it manageable, we are keeping it as much as possible to "pure" GMT watches, i.e., those with a GMT hand pointing at a scale rather than some other unconventional display, which unfortunately excludes models like the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone, Parmigiani Tonda Hemispheres, Arnold & Son Globetrotter, and any number of very creative high-end takes on a dual-timer. We've also left out world-time watches, GMT watches' more complex cousins that display all the world's time zones simultaneously (you can check out our list of world timers here) and multiple-complication watches in which the GMT function is paired with a chronograph, perpetual calendar, or other high complications (small complications like dates are OK). Finally, we included only watches with mechanical movements, which are more likely to appeal to a wo...

21 Best Everyday Watches For All Price Ranges in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 1, 2024

21 Best Everyday Watches For All Price Ranges in 2026

The definition of an everyday watch can, of course, be highly subjective, based on one’s individual needs, tastes, and budget (I have met people who rock A. Lange & Söhne, F.P. Journe, and even Richard Mille as their “everyday” brands). But most of us can get behind Teddy’s idea that an everyday watch is one that combines versatility with specifications suited for day-to-day needs; it can be dressed up or down, is highly legible in most conditions, and is water resistant enough for worry-free daily wear (i.e., rated to at least 50 meters). As a timepiece that will spend much more time actually on the wrist than in a safe, it should also be affordable. Hence, our selection of the 21 best everyday watches starts under $500 and tops out under $10,000. Citizen Tsuyosa Price: $450, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 9.1mm, Lug to Lug: 45mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of appealing mechanical timepieces, including the recently introduced NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer five, all with a subtle sunburst finish: blue, yellow, green, turquoise, and black. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for...

Reflecting on Ten Years of the Sensational De Bethune DB28 – Reprise Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Oct 14, 2023

Reflecting on Ten Years of the Sensational De Bethune DB28 – Reprise

It’s been more than ten years since the De Bethune DB28 won the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Effectively the “Best Picture” at the “Oscars” of watchmaking, this recognition placed De Bethune among the elite company of Aiguille d’Or winners such as F.P. Journe, Greubel Forsey, Breguet, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, and Patek Philippe. A decade removed from its Hollywood ending, the DB28 remains a grail watch in every sense.