42,355 articles · 250 videos found · page 29 of 1421
Fratello
Rolex has always produced watches that I have gravitated towards. For a long time, though, I grappled with some of the modern baggage that the brand has taken on. Modern Rolex sports watches have a certain bling factor that turns me off. The problem is that vintage Rolex watches are either unobtainable or, if I […] Visit I Found My Ultimate Dive Watch: The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded in Paris in 1785 by Charles Leroy, L.Leroy was once one of France’s illustrious watchmaking houses, known for its marine chronometers, high complications and commissions for European royalty. After years of dormancy, the brand, acquired in 2004 by Miguel Rodríguez of the Festina Group, is staging a comeback. Following its first step with a […]
Monochrome
Formex’s Essence line, introduced in 2018, quickly earned respect as the brand’s versatile, go-anywhere sports watch, combining sharp case architecture, great engineering, and chronometer-certified accuracy. In 2020, the collection took on a cosmic turn with the debut of the Space Rock editions, featuring dials cut from the ancient Muonionalusta meteorite. Over time, these rare cosmic […]
SJX Watches
Voutilainen recently completed a custom commission with the 28 Kohan, a one-off example of its signature chronometer wristwatch that blends Finnish cultural symbols with Japanese decorative arts. Much of the decoration on the watch is maki-e, traditional Japanese lacquer, that is the work of artisan Tatsuo Kitamura, a frequent collaborator who was also responsible for past Voutilainen maki-e timepieces. Initial Thoughts Unique pieces and commissioned watches were historically the norm at the highest end of the watch market, which was then much smaller. Clients could be more demanding, and for the watchmaker, the risk of being unable to find a buyer was very real. Today off-the-rack watches dominate, largely for commercial and production reasons. Even brands with a long history of bespoke or custom watchmaking eschew custom dial colours. Some, however, keep the practice alive, like Vacheron Constantin with its Les Cabinotiers. Many independents also remain amenable to customisation, even established names that no longer need to, like Voutilainen, albeit with a long wait. Bespoke watches are inherently difficult to criticise – such watches are a success as long as the commissioner is satisfied, even if it’s the most hideous thing ever. Fortunately that isn’t the case here, the adjective that comes to mind is bedazzling. I suspect maximalist designs are often common on Voutilainen’s custom watches because collectors want to make the most of the opportunity. Some deta...
Teddy Baldassarre
When Tudor released the Pelagos FXD in late 2021 an important element of the brand's heritage was brought to light with it. A rich history of working with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale, was now being tied to a modern creation from Tudor in a new partnership. While the history brings an unusual depth to this watch (no pun intended), it’s the manner in which the Tudor Pelagos FXD has been executed that has made it truly interesting to a modern audience. This wasn’t a throwback design commemorating the past. Rather, this was a function-forward, modern design, built to spec for a niche group of divers in the French Navy. The FXD is a natural evolution of the Pelagos ethos, and its slightly unconventional approach has cemented its place in the hearts of many enthusiasts. Tudor took a slightly different route with the FXD when compared to the existing Pelagos references. The watch was designed with input from the Marine Nationale’s Commando Hubert unit in order to better suit its combat divers' needs for a specific maneuver they employed while traversing underwater. This maneuver would have them swimming segments in a set direction for a set period of time, before adjusting time and direction to tackle subsequent sections. To better assist in this exercise, the fully indexed bezel is bidirectional, and counts down rather than tracks elapsed time. This allows for fast, precise movement (this is a 120-click bezel), and no ambiguity when measuring a pre-set lengt...
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Fratello
As a die-hard collector of vintage watches, I’ve grown to appreciate the right accessories to pair with my treasured pieces. Straps are a great option, and we’ve devoted plenty of articles to reviewing them. However, an appropriate bracelet is the chef’s kiss. The problem is that authentic bracelets are difficult to find and are often […] Visit Hands-On With The New Gold-Plated Forstner Bracelets to read the full article.
Monochrome
If you own mechanical Swiss watches, one of them potentially came to you with a COSC chronometer certificate. But not everyone knows exactly what this certificate means. The COSC is the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres or the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. COSC certifies Swiss-made movements or watches as chronometers (not to be confused […]
Fratello
Brellum releases many small runs of watches during any given year, so I was surprised to find that it’s been nearly six months since our last review. Now we’re back with a look at the new Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase LE Chronometer. Yes, that’s a mouthful, but the welcome news is that the watch now […] Visit Introducing: The Salmon-Dial Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing the 2024 TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 collection: now featuring a new chronometer movement, refined case ergonomics, and a redesigned wave-pattern dial.
SJX Watches
In celebration of birthday, Zenith presents a trio of chronographs entirely in blue ceramic, the 160th Anniversary Editions of the Chronometer Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Big Date Flyback. Each retains the specifications of its steel equivalent, with the only distinction being the case and bracelet material. Initial thoughts Best known for the El Primero high-beat automatic chronograph, Zenith arguably does best at chronographs, and that’s exactly what it’s doing for its anniversary. The reimagining of Zenith’s best-known models in blue ceramic is on trend – maybe a bit too trendy – with brands like Audemars Piguet having already done it. That said, the anniversary trilogy does offer a striking new alternative to anyone seeking an El Primero with a whole new aesthetic. The use of ceramic for both the case and bracelet, however, means each of the trilogy models is notably pricier than the equivalent model in steel. That’s acceptable for an anniversary limited edition, but not quite the same value proposition as the steel variants. Blue ceramic The Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Big Date Flyback each retain the same dimensions and movement as their respective steel models, except that the case and bracelet are now in blue ceramic modelled on Zenith’s signature hue. According to Zenith, blue ceramic was an undertaking that involved months of research and development. Blue ceramic is significantly more challenging to finish...
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The Black Bay Chrono 'Pink' M79360N-0019 is one of the most talked-about releases from Tudor in the last few years. From the unexpected dial colour to the five-link bracelet, it’s a watch that has divided collectors...
Fratello
The King Seiko 45KS is a lesson in finding value in vintage. Unlike its modern counterparts, this King Seiko offers a fiercely large amount of watch for the money. Depending on its condition, the 45KS can be found on the secondary market for €900–1,500. Modern Seiko has a problem. It’s not rival brands, such as […] Visit Value In Vintage With The King Seiko 45KS to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The prolific observatory chronometer calibre is back.The post Has the Zenith G.F.J. actually achieved perfection? Maybe, and the Calibre 135 certainly helps. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
For a long time, Zenith kept us guessing about what its celebratory 160th-anniversary release would be. But if you know something about Zenith, the social media posts hinted at something special related to the brand’s rich history in observatory chronometer competitions. With the release of the Zenith G.F.J., the watchmaker from Le Locle brings its […] Visit Zenith Celebrates Its 160th Anniversary In Style With The New G.F.J. to read the full article.
Monochrome
On the occasion of its 160th anniversary, Zenith celebrates its legacy in the field of precision watchmaking, bringing back to life the venerable calibre 135, the most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. In 2022, Zenith released an exclusive limited edition of 10 watches, powered by vintage 135-O movements, restored and […]
Hodinkee
The brand's latest limited edition dive watch supports a new marine research center in the Philippines.
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We also dive into how I evaluate microbrand watches, whether buying your first Rolex changes your opinion of Tudor, if OMEGA has become too reliant on the Co-Axial escapement, why the Tudor Royal deserves more attenti...
SJX Watches
Having made its debut two years ago with the Schwarz Etienne-powered HN00, Havid Nagan returns with Classic One, a chronometer-certified dress watch with a multi-layered dial. Available in two dial finishes, ebony or ivory, the Classic One takes the nascent brand in a new, more traditional direction. The Havid Nagan brand was launched on Kickstarter in 2019 by Aren Bazerkanian, who at the time was working as Director of Operations at the FP Journe boutique in Los Angeles. One of the guiding principles of Havid Nagan is an emphasis on slimness, which is an obsession that Mr Bazerkanian picked up from his time working for Mr Journe. Initial thoughts The original HN00 and subsequent HN01 were thoughtful and appealing watches, but the Classic One feels like a more mature product. In my opinion, the debut models were a bit overambitious with their proprietary strap system, which, though sleek and attractive, result in the risk of not being able to find replacement straps in the future. The Classic One, on the other hand, is more traditional in its construction, with classic lugs that can accommodate a variety of straps (the watch comes standard with straps from Jean-Rousseau). As a result of being more classical in orientation, the central feature of the Classic One is its multi-part dial with an unusual construction made up of clear sapphire sandwiched by brass discs. Finished with applied Calatrava-style hour markers, the overall effect is dynamic and attractive. In terms of...
Monochrome
EVs are booming at the moment, and I’ve said before they are here to stay. But, I say this again too; they are a part of the solution to a global problem, but not the solution. And whenever it involves adding extra doses of fun into cars or preserving classics for future generations, we can certainly […]
Deployant
Ba111od, ever the disruptor has released their Chapter 7, now with their first chronometer-certified by Observatoire Chronométrique de Genève.
Time+Tide
We explain the difference between COSC, METAS, Superlative, and any other chronometer certification method.The post What is a chronometer? Demystifying COSC, METAS, Grand Seiko Standard, and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
You may have heard of a few or more of the following historical people and events: Thomas Mudge, George Graham, John Harrison, the Longitude Prize, Captain James Cook, and the mutiny on the 'HMS Bounty.' However, you are less likely to have heard the name of a horologist who played a pivotal role in all of the above: Larcum Kendall (1719–1790). Come with me on a worldwide adventure involving timekeeping and history.
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Meet the Casio G-Shock "Vandalism" from iflwatches. This isn't mass-produced; every single dial is hand-painted one at a time, meaning the art on yours will be entirely unique to you.
Fratello
Do you want to use a Seagull ST-1901 movement in your new watch? Sure, that’s no problem, but you’ll need to order a minimum of 10,000 units. That’s something you want to hear as a small brand when asking the Chinese movement manufacturer about possibly supplying you with calibers. But instead of looking for possible […] Visit Introducing: The Third-Generation Studio Underd0g 01Series - A New And Improved Breed to read the full article.
Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin has legitimate, historical maritime credentials, supplying more than 50 navies and merchant marine companies with precision marine deck chronometers in the 1870s. Proud of its seafaring past, Ulysse Nardin is back in the official timekeeping helm of the legendary Vendée Globe single-handed, non-stop, non-assisted round-the-world sailing race. To celebrate its second partnership with […]
Fratello
When Tudor hints at a new watch, the rumor mill starts running on overdrive. Usually, it sparks discussions about great possible additions to the Tudor lineup. How about that for Tudor scooping up ideas for future releases? But this time, the teaser that Tudor released wasn’t too mysterious. With a clip that showed the Marine […] Visit Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Tudor Pelagos FXD has its first-ever GMT and Master Chronometer certification.The post Tudor doubles down on its military credentials with the new Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Omega is reissuing the Speedmaster CK2998 with the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” that’s powered by powered by the latest-generation Moonwatch movement, the Co-Axial Master Chronometer cal. 3861. But the “First Omega in Space” (FOIS) is also a keen-eyed remake of the original and sports a detail enthusiasts will appreciate: the stepped dial is a subtle grey-blue dial that replicates the unique colour found on certain vintage Speedmasters made in the 1960s. Initial thoughts Omega issues enough vintage-inspired Speedmaster models that even someone familiar with watches like myself is sometimes confused. For the uninitiated, the FOIS and Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” will look very similar, but for the enthusiasts the distinction is clear. That said, the FOIS is one of the most appealing recent Speedmasters. The attention to detail in design is obvious and impressive. Moreover it’s a vintage remake with a twist: the grey-blue dial is esoteric enough that it looks different, but still a detail that Speedmaster fans will appreciate. The faux-vintage lume is a bit too much, but from a design perspective it works as the parchment lume complements the grey-blue dial. Add to that Omega’s typically high quality and relatively affordable price – this is marginally less expensive than the Moonwatch cal. 3861 with a sapphire crystal – and the new FOIS is both compelling and good value. CK 2998 returns The second Speedmaster model after the CK2915, the CK2998 was ...
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