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Gallery · Guide
Patek Philippe Gallery Patek Philippe

Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Patek Philippe thread.

Icon · Guide
Calatrava Patek Philippe

The 1932 Patek reference that set the template for every modern dress watch.

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Nautilus Patek Philippe

Gérald Genta's 1976 Patek sports watch. Sketched on a restaurant napkin at Baselworld 1974.

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Aquanaut Patek Philippe

Patek's 1997 accessible sport watch alongside the Nautilus. Rounded-octagonal case, tropical strap.

Peter Speake Returns with PS Horology and the Tsuba SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus But Jan 5, 2025

Peter Speake Returns with PS Horology and the Tsuba

Peter Speake has introduced the first watches under his new brand, PS Horology. Long separated from the eponymous brand Speake-Marin, Mr Speake has launched the Tsuba. A significant departure from his earlier designs, the Tsuba’s case and bracelet features flowing, organic lines inspired by tsuba, guards found on traditional Japanese swords that were functional but often exquisitely decorated. The debut of PS Horology, just six days into the new year, is the first significant relaunch of 2025 but probably not the last. Initial thoughts Mr Speake is a significant figure in the early history of independent watchmaking, so the launch of his new brand attracted my attention. While the designs are a departure from what I’m used to seeing from the projects he’s been involved with in the past, they are nonetheless executed with an eye for the details. The Tsuba is all about its case and bracelet design, which is almost organic in feel, calling to mind watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus. But the Tsuba’s design has an altogether different influence, and the similarity is incidental. The unusual shape of the case means it’s difficult to manufacture and finish, with dramatic transitions between brushed convex surfaces and polished concave surfaces. The watch is powered by the well-known Vaucher cal. 5401, a thin, sophisticated calibre that helps the Tsuba achieve its appealing slimness of just under 9 mm. The multi-part dials are also worth close examination. The stan...

Best of 2024: Surprises and Unexpected Developments SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cubitus leaving aside Dec 24, 2024

Best of 2024: Surprises and Unexpected Developments

There were relatively fewer surprises in 2024, perhaps because of the overall slowdown in demand for luxury watches. There were a few big surprises though, including the biggest one of all, the Patek Philippe Cubitus, leaving aside the leak thanks to a premature publication of Fortune magazine. Perhaps even more surprising and even bigger, both figuratively and literally, was the Bugatti Tourbillon, a hypercar inspired by a watch. Also notable was the fact that there was little unexpected from independent watchmakers, which perhaps underlines the still-robust demand for watches by the indies, which stick to safe bets that are easy to sell. Here’s a look at our team’s take on the unexpected launches of the year. Biver Automatique – SJX The first Biver watch was a carillon minute repeater with tourbillon that was finely finished, inside and out, but it was big, thick, and expensive. The follow-up, in contrast, was almost the opposite. The Automatique is compact and elegantly wearable, with a clean design that has just the right amount of vintage flavour. The only aspect where the Automatique stays true to its predecessor is in the finishing, which is outstanding, inside and out. The surprising bit about the Automatique is the movement. For one, it was developed by Dubois Depraz, better known as a maker of chronograph- and perpetual calendar modules mounted on ETA movements. Second, it arguably exceeds the movement of the Carillon Tourbillon in terms of design and decor...

Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring SJX Watches
Patek Philippe turning Dec 20, 2024

Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring

Over the last decade, metal alloy hairsprings seem to fallen out of favour across watchmaking, with even conservative, haute horlogerie brands like Breguet and Patek Philippe turning to silicon balance springs. Not to mention large-scale makers of sporty watches like Omega and Tudor, which already transitioned to silicon balance springs. Rolex, however, stands out. The Geneva marque continues to employ a hairspring fabricated of its proprietary blue alloy – the Parachrom hairspring. The Parachrom hairspring inside the cal. 4131 of the Cosmograph Daytona The advantages of alloy The use of blue Parachrom is rooted in the simple fact that the right metal alloy boasts performance that is at least on par with its silicon counterpart – while offering some distinct advantages missing in silicon. Alloy hairsprings are traditionally made of Nivarox (and its family of related alloys), a special alloy that neither oxidises nor change its dimensions with variations in temperature. Invented in 1933 and almost a century old, Nivarox is a mix of nickel and iron, making it a ferromagnetic alloy, thus susceptible to influence from magnetic fields.  The cal. 3255 of the Day-Date 40 is equipped with a Parachrom hairspring. Image – Rolex In order to make its hairsprings more resistant to magnetism and to bypass the Swatch-imposed monopoly on Nivarox hairsprings (Nivarox-FAR being one of the key companies of Swatch Group), Rolex set out to develop its own hairspring alloy in the early 2...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus list it’s time Oct 25, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models

Another Friday, another list! After last week’s Patek Philippe Nautilus list, it’s time to move on to Rolex. This week, we jump into the world of the vintage models that came before the iconic watches we know today. Some have the same cases and dials with one simple difference: the famous names we know today […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models to read the full article.

Editorial: Memorable Moments at IAMWATCH SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2523 world time Oct 23, 2024

Editorial: Memorable Moments at IAMWATCH

The first large scale watch fair I attended as Tempus in Singapore in 2004. A teenager then, I was fairly new to watches and found everything endlessly interesting. History never repeats but it rhymes, as the saying goes. Iamwatch just concluded in Singapore. In many ways it was similar to Tempus: also staged by local retailer The Hour Glass, a watch fair of sizeable scale, but unlike the 2004 event, Iamwatch was largely focused on independent watchmakers. Most crucially, it was also casual – the prescribed attire was Hawaiian shirt – which allowed for more personal interactions with industry personalities. As one of the largest retailers in the world, The Hour Glass has the pull to round up watch enthusiasts, and a great number turned up for Iamwatch, ranging from mega-collectors to royalty. Naturally, the watches spotted were diverse and often incredible. Many multi-million-dollar watches were circulating within the event, including famous examples that sold for record prices at auction, including the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial and “Gobbi” signature. And even the Patek Philippe Cubitus was spotted on several wrists, the day after its launch in Munich. But 20 years on after Tempus, the enjoyment, significance, and enduring memories of an event like Iamwatch – for me personally – is no longer the watches, but the people. It was the moments, often during downtime or after the doors closed, when I got to converse with watchmakers ...

Introducing – Gübelin Unveils Ipsomatic, its Own Watch Designed by Architect Santiago Calatrava Monochrome
Patek Philippe watches once retailed Oct 4, 2024

Introducing – Gübelin Unveils Ipsomatic, its Own Watch Designed by Architect Santiago Calatrava

If you’re into watches, then the name Gübelin should sound familiar –  you’ll probably first think about double-signed vintage Patek Philippe watches, once retailed by this house. Indeed, Gübelin is, first and foremost, a jeweller and watch retailer which has been in the business for over 150 years in Switzerland. Today, Gübelin returns to making […]

Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe before establishing his own Oct 1, 2024

Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph

A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...

A Unique F.P. Journe Élégante for Geneva’s MAMCO Art Museum SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Sep 6, 2024

A Unique F.P. Journe Élégante for Geneva’s MAMCO Art Museum

Continuing with its regular support for various charities around the world, F.P. Journe has created the Élégante 48 mm Titalyt MAMCO that will be sold to benefit the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Geneva (MAMCO) on September 18, 2024. It’s essentially a variation of the stock Élégante with an engraved bezel and a reproduction of Maurizio Nannucci’s 1994 Art on the dial. While the watch is simple, the number will be big. As an example, the one-off Élégante 48 “Pink” raised over US$400,000 for American breast cancer charity in February this year. MAMCO 30 F.P. Journe has long been a supporter of MAMCO via its sponsorship of the Prix Solo at artgenève, an annual art fair organised by the museum. The one-off Élégante was conceived to raise funds for MAMCO’s renovation, which is part of the institution’s 30th anniversary commemoration this year. Founded in 1994 by a group of prominent bankers and lawyers, MAMCO is Switzerland’s largest museum dedicated to contemporary art. Located in a former factory, MAMCO sits across from the Patek Philippe Museum, and a five minute’s walk from F.P. Journe’s manufacture. The Élégante MAMCO is the larger size of the model, measuring 48 mm lengthwise. It has a titanium case coated in Titalyt, which is essentially a ceramic layer created via chemical oxidation. The case is identical to that on the standard model, save for the bezel that is engraved with “MAMCO” and “30”, a reference to the museum...

Explained: The Horizontal Clutch of a Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 530 How it Aug 26, 2024

Explained: The Horizontal Clutch of a Chronograph

The chronograph is an on-demand complication, as its operation requires the user to active the function. As such, the chronograph, or more accurately a stopwatch, engages selectively with the going train of the watch. The chronograph wheel couples with the going train when engaged and uncouples when stopped or reset. The mechanism which makes this selective engagement possible is the clutch.  Arguably the most classical form of clutch is the horizontal clutch, also known as a lateral coupling. As suggested by the name, the coupling action takes place horizontally, with the clutch arm moving on a plane parallel to the movement. Because the mechanism is spread out laterally, it results in an intricate display of mechanics, which is one reason why the lateral coupling is desired by many enthusiasts. A eminently classical chronograph construction in a mid-20th century Patek Philippe ref. 530 How it works The fundamentals of the horizontal clutch are outlined in Figs. 1 and 2. Gear R1 is fixed to the seconds’ mobile, on the same axis, above the going train. The same mobile conveys the turning motion from the going train, and may carry the small seconds hand on the dial side. The clutch arm pivots on the same axis as R1 and carries an intermediary clutch wheel R2. In Fig. 1 the column wheel or cam (not shown) keeps the clutch uncoupled with the intermediary wheel R2 idling. In other words R2 is turning but not driving anything.   Fig 1. Image – Patek Philippe patent EP1437...

Hands On: F.P. Journe Élégante “Gino’s Dream” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater Jul 9, 2024

Hands On: F.P. Journe Élégante “Gino’s Dream”

Now a legend in his own time, François-Paul Journe is an independent watchmaker who has created some of the most complicated and most ingenious timepieces in contemporary watchmaking. But having quietly previewed it last year, Mr Journe finally launched a watch that is, on its face, surprising for his brand: the Élégante Gino’s Dream. Many brands have “rainbow” watches in their catalogues, but as is always the case with Mr Journe, his “rainbow” creation is done his own inimitable way. Based on his inventive quartz watch, the Élégante Gino’s Dream is set with synthetic gemstones of glass-ceramic composite. The colours and model name are a tribute to the late Gino Cukrowicz (1959-2021), one of Mr Journe’s best friends and a longtime business partner. Initial thoughts With the popularity – and value – of “rainbow” watches, it seems like every watch brand has one in its line-up, from the Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater in rainbow stones from end to end to Tudor’s special edition for the VCARB Formula 1 team. So an F.P. Journe in those colours isn’t surprising, yet the Élégante “Gino’s Dream” is unexpected. As with much he has done, Mr Journe didn’t do a “rainbow” like anyone else. Instead of an exceptionally expensive gem-set watch – a favoured approach as a sure way to increase revenue without boosting production – he created something entry-level, more or less. And the watch has a deeply personal aspect to it – Gino...

News: Watches & Wonders 2025 Dates, with Additions to the WWG Board SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Jun 26, 2024

News: Watches & Wonders 2025 Dates, with Additions to the WWG Board

The world’s most important watch trade show, Watches & Wonders, has just announced the dates for next year: April 1-7, 2025. Practically all major luxury watch brands present their latest wares at Watches & Wonder (W&W;), including Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier. The event also named additions to the board of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF), the governing body of the event. Chanel, Hermès and LVMH join Rolex, Richemont, Patek Philippe, and Cartier on the board, giving representation to the biggest brands or groups showing at the event. Alongside the enlarged board, the WWGF appointed Cartier chief executive Cyrille Vigneron chairman of the board, taking over from Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, who now becomes the organisation’s treasurer. Still a key man on the board, Jean-Frederic Dufour (second from left) Give and take The changes at WWGF reflect longstanding rivalry between the brands and groups that emerged when the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, better known as SIHH, evolved into W&W; after the demise of Baselworld. Previously dominated by Richemont and Cartier, SIHH transformed into an event that included giants like Rolex and LVMH. LVMH long believed it deserved a seat on the board, according to a senior executive of its watch division. It is possible that the elevation of Cartier’s boss to the chairmanship is a concession for the jewellery agreeing to the enlarged board. Interestingly, the two-year term of Mr Vign...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Bugatti Tourbillon, John Lennon’s Watch, and Brewing Ancient Beer Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe 2499 Jun 22, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Bugatti Tourbillon, John Lennon’s Watch, and Brewing Ancient Beer

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com The Story Behind John Lennon’s Patek   We saw one of the most fascinating watch stories of the year come to light this week via The New Yorker, with a long piece diving into the strange history of John Lennon’s Patek Philippe 2499. For decades, the whereabouts of this watch had been unknown to the general public – it was considered one of the great “lost” watches. The story, written by Jay Fielden, covers the known history of Lennon’s 2499, including it being given as a gift to Lennon by Yoko Ono for his 40th birthday, the theft of the watch in 2005, and legal wrangling in Swiss courts to determine the rightful owner. It also, for the first time, gives us a glimpse of the caseback engraving, a message to Lennon from his wife, photographed for an Auctionata auction that was set to take place in 2013, but never went to market.  Pentax Introduces their First Film Camera in 20 Years  Film photography has had a bit of a resurgence in recent years, and Pentax has just gotten into the game with a compelling new film camera, their first in two decades. The Pentax 17, which reta...

In-Depth: The MB&F; LM Perpetual and Stephen McDonnell’s Innovation SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1526 Jun 19, 2024

In-Depth: The MB&F; LM Perpetual and Stephen McDonnell’s Innovation

When it comes to perpetual calendars – perhaps the most objectively useful complication – the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual, or LM QP for short, sits neatly between classical architecture and iconoclastic construction. Now almost a decade old having been launched in 2015, the LM QP is a mechanical marvel coming from the mind of Stephen McDonnell. The LM QP’s beauty lies in Mr McDonnell’s rethinking of the perpetual calendar complication while integrating historical concepts. Rethinking the QP A perpetual calendar, or quantième perpétuel (hence “QP”), is a complex and layered mechanism, which makes it a challenging complication to implement in watches. Naturally, not all perpetual calendars are created equal, some being more innovative and others more classical in their construction. The first-ever serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Patek Philippe ref. 1526 that debuted in 1940; the basics of the perpetual calendar mechanism would remain largely unchanged for decades after The issue with classical calendar constructions is their vulnerability to wear and tear, shock, or careless operation by the user. Ironically, the most forward-thinking of perpetual calendar mechanisms try to solve these problems, but sometimes suffer from reliability issues rooted in the radical concepts employed. Mr McDonnell’s construction of the LM QP smartly manages to eliminate traditional weaknesses while avoiding new problems. The result is a reliable and innovati...

Business News: Sam Hines (Re)Joins Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2526 Jun 8, 2024

Business News: Sam Hines (Re)Joins Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s has just announced that Sam Hines will be Chairman of Watches, the top job in the watch and clock department, starting end June 2024. Mr Hines (pictured above left) will be based in Hong Kong, where he has lived for over a decade. Having been expected by the industry for several months, Mr Hines’ new role sees him to return to a traditional auction house four years after he left Sotheby’s to join online auctioneer Loupe This. Mr Hines was also a freelance consultant during that time and continued to work with Sotheby’s. He was instrumental in securing several high-profile timepieces for the auction house, including the Patek Philippe ref. 2526 with movement number 760’000 that once belonged to J.B. Champion and sold for over US$731,000 including fees earlier in 2024. Alongside Mr Hines’ appointment, Sotheby’s also announced the promotion of Geoff Hess (above right) to Global Head of Watches. Previously the head of department in the Americas, Mr Hess will continue to be based in New York. Prior to joining Sotheby’s in August 2023, Mr Hess was a watch specialist the Phillips.  

Anoma Makes 1950s Asymmetrical Style Affordable SJX Watches
Patek Philippe or dive watch While Jun 6, 2024

Anoma Makes 1950s Asymmetrical Style Affordable

Newly established “micro” brand Anoma follows a familiar template: making particular vintage designs or genres affordable. But it’s approaching the concept with a different flavour. Instead of “sector” dials or Breguet numerals, the brand’s inaugural watch, the A1 First Series, is a clean, geometric form inspired by 1950s furniture. Initial thoughts The A1 is refreshing change from the typical “micro” brand offering that is too often a remake of a vintage Patek Philippe or dive watch. While the A1 won’t have the broad appeal of a conventional round watch, it is an interesting alternative for someone on a budget. The A1 is more typical of “micro” brand offerings in its fit and finish. It is done well for the price, but some compromises had to be made to achieve the affordability. The gap between the case middle and back, for instance, is quite obvious. This isn’t a criticism but a fact true of all brands in this genre. Vintage flavour Founded by Matteo Violet Vianello, a management consultant who’s a watch entrepreneur on the side, Anoma aims to be a “experimental and daring vision of watch design”. The A1 is not modelled on a watch, but instead a triangular table designed in the 1950s by French architect Charlotte Perriand. Earlier in her career Perriand worked at Le Corbusier’s studio, where she helped design several now-famous pieces of furniture, including the B 306 chaise longue. The watch reproduces the outline of the table with the cas...

Masterpieces of Historical English Watchmaking at Phillips SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 767 Jun 1, 2024

Masterpieces of Historical English Watchmaking at Phillips

Phillips’ upcoming New York auction, taking place on June 8 and 9, includes an unusual number of exceptional, highly complicated English pocket watches. Notably, these watches were consigned by the same discerning collector who owned the unique Patek Philippe ref. 767 with double split-seconds that recently sold for US$1.30 million including fees. All dating from the late 19th to early 20th century, the pocket watches exemplify the most prestigious type of timepiece in the world during the period, the high-quality English watch. Banker J. Pierpont Morgan, for instance, was an avid collector of English watches, and owned what was then the most complicated watch in the world, and made in England naturally. Quintessentially English That, however, was also when English watchmaking of this quality peaked. A victim of economic crises, war, and unwillingness to adopt new manufacturing technologies, high-end English watchmaking would go extinct after the Great Depression, though it has been revived in the 21st century in artisanal form thanks to the likes of Charles Frodsham. English watches in their heyday were often very complicated, but restrained in terms of movement decoration. This same philosophy would later be employed by George Daniels, who understood that quality did not equal decoration. He famously said on several occasions that a high-quality watches does not need fanciful decoration (which he implied was customarily Swiss). The auction includes five English pocket ...

Massena LAB Teams Up with Raúl Pagès Once Again for the Limited Edition “Absinthe” Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe watches May 22, 2024

Massena LAB Teams Up with Raúl Pagès Once Again for the Limited Edition “Absinthe”

Massena LAB has announced a new collaboration with independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès inspired by one of the most important Patek Philippe watches of the last century. The Absinthe, which serves as the direct follow-up to the pair’s massively successful 2022 release, the Magraph, brings together a proprietary hand-wound movement, a strikingly green dial (reminiscent of the infamous spirit for which the watch is named), and all the vintage charm we have come to expect from Massena LAB in one surprisingly affordable (and highly limited) package. William Massena is one of those rare figures in the watch industry who everyone seems to know. He’s an outsized presence who seemingly manages to be everywhere at once and have a hand in every facet of the watch industry. Over the last few years though, his name has come to be associated primarily with Massena LAB, where he consistently produces some of the most talked about limited editions and collaborations on the market. This latest release follows closely on the heels of a watch introduced last month. That watch - a collaboration between Massena LAB, Pagès, and Phillips Auction House in association with Bass & Russo - debuted the M690 movement used in the Absinthe and drew inspiration in its layout from the iconic (and record-setting) 1952 Patek Philippe ref. 2458 produced for J.B. Champion, Jr.  That watch was one of only two Patek wrist watches to have been fitted with an Observatory-grade movement, and its unique d...

Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches Fratello
Patek Philippe May 18, 2024

Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches

We’ve all heard it: “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” This advertising slogan became almost as iconic as the watches themselves. That’s understandable, too, considering how it tugs at the heartstrings and strongly implies superior quality. But what charges a watch with heirloom quality? And […] Visit Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches to read the full article.

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Spring 2024 Part II SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie ref 6301A May 17, 2024

Editorial: Geneva Auctions Spring 2024 Part II

The spring auction season in Geneva started dramatically enough with a cyberattack at Christie’s that took down its website and app. Only Watch went ahead as scheduled, however, and raised over CHF28.3 million, with most of that coming from the Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301A that sold for CHF15.7 million. What transpired at Only Watch also played out in the subsequent auctions over the weekend. The live sales at the four auction houses, Antiquorum, Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s, sold almost CHF85 million of watches, including fees (excluding Only Watch). This compared to over well CHF110 million for Geneva’s fall season last year. Although the sale season six months ago was buoyed by an extra live auction at Christie’s (that was subject of much chatter), the diminished total for this season reflects the state of the market. The waning sentiment was palpable in all the salerooms. That said, the auctions did throw up a handful of grand surprises, including CHF3.13 million for the Patek Philippe ref. 605 HU world time pocket watch with cloisonné enamel dial at Antiquorum, and CHF1.16 million for the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I at Phillips. Christie’s sold the most expensive wristwatch this season with CHF2.47 million for a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 “pink on pink” (above), though Antiquorum claimed the title for most valuable timepiece with its ref. 605 HU pocket watch. Image – Christie’s The good and great indies One of the ...

Up Close: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe watches made May 3, 2024

Up Close: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique “Only Watch”

The two most important examples of independent watchmaking in Only Watch 2024 are arguably the stealthy F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu and the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique, each a significant creation of a leading watchmaker of his generation (and interesting enough, both are sports watches). Inspired by mid-20th century explorer’s watches that were magnetism-resistant, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is an elegant but robust watch with a stainless steel case and an entirely new calibre equipped with an indirectly-driven centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. In its Only Watch form, the RRCA is a unique watch but also a prototype for a new line of elegant sports watches. NB: The watch pictured is a work in progress that is not entirely finished so the dial is a prototype and the movement is not perfectly clean. It will be delivered in a perfect state to the eventual owner. Initial thoughts Many of the RRCA’s details bring to mind mid-20th century “sports” watches. Not the sports watches we know of today, but rather the water-resistant Patek Philippe watches made in the 1940s and 1950s for gentlemen sportsmen and adventurers. This reflects with Rexhep Rexhepi’s respect for traditional Geneva watchmaking, which is also expressed in the RRCC but in a different manner. The RRCA subtly marks a new direction for Rexhep Rexhepi’s aesthetics. It’s clearly a thoughtful evolution of the RRCC. While the RRCC is a dress watch, ...

A New Limited Edition from Massena LAB and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo Pays Tribute to a Classic Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Ref 2458 wristwatch originally Apr 30, 2024

A New Limited Edition from Massena LAB and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo Pays Tribute to a Classic

Phillips, along with Bacs & Russo, has recently unveiled the 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition. This watch was created in partnership between three industry leaders: Phillips Watches, William Massena from the horological concept studio Massena LAB, and the award-winning independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès. The result is a watch that encompasses each collaborators’ unique talents, while building a watch that melds past and present seamlessly. Drawing inspiration from the legendary Observatory-grade Patek Philippe Ref. 2458 wristwatch, originally crafted in platinum for collector Joe Ben “J.B.” Champion, Jr. in 1952, this watch pays homage to horological history. Notably, the original timepiece set a record in 2014 as the most valuable time-only wristwatch ever auctioned, solidifying its iconic status. Despite its vintage influences, the 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition has a distinctly modern essence. Building upon the technical foundation established by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès in 2022 with the Magraph Limited Edition, this collaboration introduces a 38.5mm × 10mm stainless steel case housing the manual-wind, proprietary caliber M690. This movement is a refinement of Massena LAB’s inaugural movement, features sub-seconds at 9 o’clock and hand-decoration (including hand finished anglage on bridges and plates) overseen by Swiss craftsmen under Pagès’ direction.  Embracing a love for vintage timepieces and the narratives surrounding them, the colla...

Our Morning with Cartier Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Cartier can be thought Apr 12, 2024

Our Morning with Cartier

There’s really nothing like the Cartier meeting at Watches & Wonders. Along with Rolex and Patek Philippe, Cartier can be thought of as an anchor brand of the show. They have one of the largest booth spaces, with nonstop foot traffic, and a veritable army of cheery employees who are happy to show you watch, after watch, after watch in your meeting. It’s a seemingly never-ending parade of beautiful objects. To me, that’s what an event like this is all about. Why are we here if not to gawk? In terms of sheer volume, Cartier is your best bet for that.  What’s wonderful about Cartier, though, is that the beautiful objects aren’t necessarily completely unobtainable, and the brand works hard to make even the most head turning pieces feel approachable (at least in the context of the show). While you’ll see your fair share of unique pieces and watches that have no listed price because if you have to ask, well, you know how it goes, there are accessible ways into the brand that give you plenty of what is essential about Cartier.  My favorite example of this for 2024 is a new dial variant for the Santos, in a metallic brown with a gradient effect. It’s lovely, and pretty clearly meant to evoke something that has aged naturally over a period of many years. It’s available as both a large and medium Santos, but it’s very clear that the medium is the “correct” size for this watch. It works considerably better when it’s a little more discreet.  It joins a growi...

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part III SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 31, 2024

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part III

An outlandish concept that originally sprang from the mind of Carole Forestier Kasapi, the Ulysse Nardin Freak of 2001 was perfected by Dr Ludwig Oechslin and then made reality thanks to the advent of silicon in watchmaking. Lightweight and magnetism resistant, silicon was used for the escape wheels but that was only the beginning of the story. [This story, the third and final instalment in the series, details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor. The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement.] Silicon, Silicium, Silinvar Now used interchangeably with silicon, silicium is actually French for “silicon”, but now it is also used as the trade name for the proprietary form of silicon used by Ulysse Nardin for movement components, namely silicon with a hard oxide outer layer that gives the material thermocompensating properties. Silicium was developed by Swiss scientific institute Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de Microtechnique (CSEM) in collaboration with Ulysse Nardin. Notably, the material is also known as Silinvar, which resulted from a separated but related CSEM project backed by a consortium made up of Rolex, Patek Philippe and Swatch Group. As a ...