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Results for Three-Quarter Plate (3/4-Platine)

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Norqain Debuts the Latest in their Neverest Collection Worn & Wound
Norqain Debuts Jul 8, 2024

Norqain Debuts the Latest in their Neverest Collection

Mt. Everest has long held a grip on our cultural consciousness – and for good reason. Not only is it Earth’s highest mountain, but it takes an almost superhuman amount of determination and grit to scale it. Then, of course, there is the rich history of the Himalayas, making for an even more fascinating landscape – geographically and culturally – for our imaginations to explore. With all of this in mind, it seems that NORQAIN’s latest in their Neverest collection shows appreciation to the history, mystique, and people of the region through their Glacier Black and Ice Blue references. The 41mm DLC coated Neverest GMT Glacier Black features a black glacier dial inspired by the crevasses on Mt. Everest, with a second time zone and a 24-hour indication on a black and white ring surrounding the dial. The DLC black coating brings the overall appearance of the watch together, while the red-gold plated indices and hands add some contrast. The 40mm Neverest Glacier Ice Blue boasts an ice blue glacier dial with cracks that mimic the crevasses on Mt. Everest. The dial features diamond-cut, faceted blue indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova and blue diamond-cut faceted hour and minute hands. The steel case is paired with a blue ceramic bezel and is water-resistant up to 200 meters, ensuring reliability under even the most extreme conditions. Both watches are powered by a NORQAIN Manufacture Caliber by Kenissi. The Glacier Black model runs on Caliber NN20/2, which offers a ...

ochs und junior Introduces the Luna Sole, their Lightest and Thinnest Watch Yet Worn & Wound
Jul 2, 2024

ochs und junior Introduces the Luna Sole, their Lightest and Thinnest Watch Yet

ochs und junior has released the latest in their line of celestial-inspired watches, this time with a movement and complication ten years in the making. To look at it, the luna sole couldn’t be anything besides an ochs und junior and uses a series of rotating discs to convey the relative position of the moon, sun, and earth. When I was first getting into watches in the early 2010s, the watch industry - in particular the Swiss watch industry - was experiencing a very real bout of homogeneity. Coming out of the recession, and with the real boom times still ahead of them, it felt like brands were (mostly) looking to play it safe and ride out the stormy weather. ochs und junior was one of the first brands I came across that was, in a big way, playing their own game. While the luna sole is a pure expression of that approach, it’s also the thinnest and lightest ochs und junior we’ve seen yet, and demonstrates a clear evolution from the early days of the brand without sacrificing any of the brutalist industrial design the brand is known for. The luna sole measures in at 40mm across and 9mm thick, with a lug-to-lug barely longer than the diameter of the watch. More to the point, the grade 5 titanium case is light - the watch head without the strap is only 40 grams, about the equivalent of a handful of quarters. Inside the luna sole, you’ll find a modified version of the ETA 2892, initially conceptualized and designed by ochs und junior founder Ludwig Oechslin a decad...

Kollokium Returns with their First Official Release Worn & Wound
Louis Erard May 20, 2024

Kollokium Returns with their First Official Release

Back in December, we told you about one of the most curious projects to come across our desks in a long time. A new watch from a new brand, Kollokium, began making the rounds on social media and the watch-internet in the days and weeks following Dubai Watch Week. Everything about it seemed almost intentionally mysterious and vague, and their marketing materials, if you could even call them that, pointed to the watch’s so limited it’s impossible to buy friends and family run, and didn’t even guarantee a second installment. Obviously, this worked hugely in Kollokium’s favor, and watch enthusiasts with adventurous taste have been anxiously anticipating a follow up. Now it’s here, the aptly titled Variant “B”.  A brief refresher on Kollokium for those who need it: it’s the brainchild of Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, three watch industry veterans who each come from a different side of the larger watch world. Emch will be familiar to many as the CEO of Louis Erard, and has guided that brand to new heights in the last several years with a string of popular limited editions and smart collaborations. Nussbaumer might be less well known by name, but is someone you’ve almost certainly encountered through his watch designs – he’s worked for many brands over the years, including TAG Heuer, Hautlence, Peterman Bedat, Jaquet Droz, and many others. And Sindi is better known by his Instagram alias @thehorophile, one of our favorite spots to look at gr...

Depancel Introduces their First Série-R Watch with an Automatic Chronograph Caliber Worn & Wound
May 14, 2024

Depancel Introduces their First Série-R Watch with an Automatic Chronograph Caliber

Depancel has carved out a nice little niche for themselves making highly specific automotive and racing inspired watches. These watches are frequently geared directly at watch collectors who are already steeped in car culture, with colorways inspired by classic racing liverys and case designs that emulate specific vehicle designs. Their square shaped watch, the Série-R, might appear somewhat derivative of another famous square watch connected to the racing world, but it has its own thing happening that sets it apart just enough. And this one, surprisingly, is the first chronograph in the Série-R collection.  Previous iterations of the Série-R have primarily been the home of a calendar complication with an execution that is chronograph-like, featuring subdials at 3, 6, and 9 for the calendar indicators. The new Série-R, in a “Tangerine” colorway and limited to 300 pieces, could have been easily predicted by Depancel fans. We get effectively the same layout as the calendar, but we’ve entered race mode with a three register chrono.  The new Tangerine colorway looks great, with a blue base dial with a sunray finish in the interior circular section and vertical ridges outside to fill the square. Orange and white accents figure prominently throughout, with a bold stripe down the dial’s left side, crossing the 9:00 subdial.  The case might appear like a standard square at a glance, but there’s a little more going on. The shape is meant to evoke a radiator grille,...

Time Through the Ages, Part 1: the English Watch Making Heyday – Where Did It All Start? Worn & Wound
Zodiac day Apr 30, 2024

Time Through the Ages, Part 1: the English Watch Making Heyday – Where Did It All Start?

Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this first installment, Andrew provides an overview of the major players and accomplishments from the early days of British watch and clock making. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster.  Many people believe that the origin of modern-day watchmaking came from the Swiss, but it all started in England back in the early 17th century. The 1620s saw a desire by clock and watch makers to establish a dedicated company as a representative body, but this was met with opposition from the other livery companies – guilds or associations in the City of London to regulate and protect the interest of their members – in particular the Blacksmiths. The Worshipful Company of Clockmakers eventually received its Royal Charter on 22nd August 1631. The Charter created a corporate body for all the Clock and Watch makers in the City of London and within a radius of ten miles around, with regulatory powers covering England and Wales. It specified that the new Fellowship should be governed by a Master, three Wardens and ten or more Assistants who would form a Court. The first Master was David Ramsay, former Chief Clockmaker to King James I. Left to right: engraved dial plate with indications for time of day, annual calendar, sign of the zodiac, day of the...

Louis Erard and Atelier Oï Release their Second Collaboration Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Apr 19, 2024

Louis Erard and Atelier Oï Release their Second Collaboration

Getting outside Palexpo is essential during Watches & Wonders week. Not only because being inside the massive complex for days on end will quickly wreak havoc on your mental and physical health (it’s dry in there, and not seeing any natural light can’t be great for you), but because there’s so much watch related stuff happening in Geneva parallel to what’s going on at Watches & Wonders. Many smaller indies post up at hotels along Lake Geneva and take meetings with media and their dealer networks, and over the last three years these meetings have been some of our favorites to attend. One of them, with Louis Erard, produced an almost obscene level of interest. I think each of mentally bought a watch in the hour we spent chatting with CEO Manuel Emch.  The watch you see here, a new collaboration between Louis Erard and atelier Oï, is the only watch we can show you from that meeting. Everything else is under embargo, but will be revealed throughout the rest of the year. But man, I was glad to see this new limited edition on the table almost immediately after sitting down. It’s the same design as a watch in my own collection, featuring a dial made up of deeply cut striated ridges that fan out like a, well, like a fan, I guess. No markers or branding, but each ridge is effectively a minute marker, so telling the time is fairly straightforward after a brief adjustment period. This LE has a gold tone dial, which leaves a very different impression than my silvery gray v...

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Worn & Wound
Hublot Mar 9, 2024

Arken Launches their First Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day

As an avid lover of tool watches, there aren’t many brands that have caught my attention in the last few years quite like Arken. Part of the explosion of small independent watch brands coming out of the UK, Arken has been on my mind since the release of their first watch, the Instrumentum, in 2021. The Instrumentum was followed up by the Alterum last year and now Arken is releasing their first-ever limited edition; a new variant of the Alterum inspired by the Year of the Dragon - a popular source of inspiration over the last few months with everyone from Hublot to JLC getting in on the action. In technical terms, the Alterum Year of the Dragon is the same watch we were introduced to last year, and which is now starting to pop up on people’s wrists as delivery gets underway. The Year of the Dragon comes in the same 200m water-resistant 40mm grade 2 titanium case and is equipped with the same modified Miyota 9015 movement as the standard production variant (all of which you can read more about in Thomas Calara’s post introducing the watch back in June). The dial of the Year of the Dragon is where the differences between this limited edition and the standard model start to show themselves. The Year of the Dragon opts to replace the frosted black and anthracite dials of the standard release with a more exciting deep red, three-dimensional, textured, “blasted dragon scale” motif. I’ve never seen a dial quite like this before, and while the name alone would be enou...

Bulova Adds New References to their Surveyor Collection Worn & Wound
Bulova Adds New References Mar 6, 2024

Bulova Adds New References to their Surveyor Collection

When talking about value driven timepieces, it would be foolish to exclude Bulova from the conversation. From their Lunar series to their Precisionist line and their aptly nicknamed Devil divers, Bulova is one of the essential bang for your buck watch brands. Furthering their cause, they are launching 3 new colorways to their popular Surveyor collection, along with a special new gold-tone option.  There will now be a striking pistachio (light green) version, with a quick release brown leather strap and a dark green version on matching quick-release 3-link stainless-steel bracelet. Both will have silver-tone dial furniture and hands, while a new burgundy edition will have rose gold-tone accents and crown. The latter will also be supplied on a matching 3-link bracelet.  Along with these new stainless-steel models, as previously mentioned, there will be a fully gold-tone edition. This one will feature a stunning champagne dial, with cut-outs so that the wearer can admire the beating heart powering this timepiece. Not only are the watch and bracelet gold-tone, but the movement plates and rotor have been given the gold treatment as well.  All these new pieces share the same 39mm case, featuring sculpted edges and faceting, along with a mix of polished and brushed finishing. Topping these watches is a flat sapphire crystal, adorned with a date magnifier and they will be powered by a Japanese (Miyota) 21-jewel automatic movement that boasts a 42-hour power reserve. These vibra...

Imperial Follows Up the Success of their Royalguard 200 with the Oceanguard GMT, Another Colorful Homage to the Eberhard Scafograf Worn & Wound
Seiko s affordable caller GMT Feb 29, 2024

Imperial Follows Up the Success of their Royalguard 200 with the Oceanguard GMT, Another Colorful Homage to the Eberhard Scafograf

Everyone says that the sophomore album is what makes or breaks an artist. Well, how about a watch company? In this instance we have Imperial Watch Co.’s follow-up to their successful Royalguard 200, the Oceanguard GMT. The Oceanguard GMT builds off the Royalguard and takes advantage of Seiko’s affordable caller GMT movement, the Seiko NH34. Like the original Royalguard, the Oceanguard continues to pay homage to the Eberhard Scafograf 300, keeping a similar design language from its predecessor with some notable departures.  It’s no secret that GMTs are popular among watch enthusiasts, so it seems like a natural progression that Imperial has added this complication to their new Oceanguard, while maintaining the same case proportions as the Royalguard. With a case diameter of 38mm, thickness of 14mm, lug-to-lug of 47mm, and lug width of 20mm, the watch will be just as wearable even with the added functionality. The Oceanguard release will contain four new models: three with black dials, and one with a white dial. There will be two models with a “Pepsi” bezel, one with a black dial and one with the only white dial in the bunch. The two remaining black dial models will have alternatively colored bezels: one with a coral and turquoise bezel, and the other with a fuchsia and cyan bezel. Each of the individual models will be limited to 25 pieces. Whether you like traditional looks or new funky color-combos, Imperial has you covered.  The case and dial are the same as t...

Just a Minute with the G-Shock Black Series with Cordura Eco Fabric Worn & Wound
Casio G-Shock Feb 23, 2024

Just a Minute with the G-Shock Black Series with Cordura Eco Fabric

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you. We don’t witness partnerships between two giants like this often. Casio G-Shock and fabric maker Cordura have teamed up, and the result is not just a watch with a stylistic bent; there is material change, literally. In this segment of Just A Minute, we take a look at the G-Shock Utility Black Series with Cordura Eco Fabric. Casio has chosen three models – the original 5600-series, the imposing 700-series, and the now-iconic 2100-series – as the foundation for this collection. Monochromatic, fully stealthed-out, and low-key, they are the perfect test beds for the first use of the virtually indestructible Cordura fabric, which is often utilized in equipment for professional and military use. As we’ll see, this is as perfect a match from a material applications standpoint as you will see anywhere. These watches are that good. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more...

Orion Returns with the Sylph, Based on their Popular Hellcat Platform Worn & Wound
Feb 6, 2024

Orion Returns with the Sylph, Based on their Popular Hellcat Platform

Orion Watches has a way of making one see a simple design in new light. Take, for instance, the isometric patterned dial on their Tesseract model. Or perhaps the tonal verdency of their Calamity diver is more your speed? Throughout the Orion catalog, one gets the sense that founder Nick Harris understands that a good watchmaker doesn’t rely on old tropes, but finds ways to add an element of surprise with each wear. That’s exactly what we’re seeing with the newest collection, the Orion Sylph. Coming in three distinct styles, the Sylph plays with color and texture against the shared sunburst dial. Customers can choose from a Graphite, Burgundy, and Black Mother-of-Pearl option, each with a bit of contrast to give a unique personality to each reference. Take, for instance, the Burgundy, which features a honey-colored dial accent and second hand. Then there is the dark charm of the Graphite option, which is contrasted with a sporty orange accent. And finally, the pièce de résistance, the Black Mother-of-Pearl reference, whose dial captures light beautifully and is accented in teal.  The Sylph stands out in its price segment with stainless steel indices, setting it apart from the softer appearance of plated plastic or brass alternatives. The silver ink dial printing adds warmth and reduces harsh contrast, while the diamond-cut hands, inspired by the Calamity, feature a thinner lume strip for a harmonious design. The Sylph is adapted from the Hellcat platform. The thin ...

Yema Takes to the Land, Air, and Sea with their New Urban Sport Collection Worn & Wound
Yema Jan 11, 2024

Yema Takes to the Land, Air, and Sea with their New Urban Sport Collection

The concept of “air”, “sea”, “land” watches continues to capture the imagination of enthusiasts. Some even build collections of watches that cover each base. The idea stems from the focused tool watches of yesteryear that were deliberate and intentional in their design languages in order to accomplish very specific goals. Yema leans into this idea in introducing a new trio of watches under their Urban Sport moniker. Within the new line, each watch tackles one component of air, sea, and land, with the Flygraf, Yachtingraf, and Rallygraf, respectively. The Flygraf dominates the air and is the punchiest of all three in color scheme. It is marked with an airplane icon at six o’clock and features a combination of inner and outer multifunction bezels for calculating speed, fuel, and other conversions. It has thicker, more legible hands befitting of a pilot’s watch and a brushed black dial designed to pay homage to vintage airplane fuselages. The second hand in particular is a bright orange that matches the inner bezel for maximum contrast. As a whole, the dial is cleaner and simpler, and the hour markers are slightly rounded. The Yachtingraf is designed for, you guessed it, yachting. With a gradient dial and thinner hands filled with cream lume, it is the most overtly vintage-inspired of the three. The Yachtingraf has, unsurprisingly, a bi-direcitonal graduated bezel with special 15-minute markings to signal regatta race starts. Its second hand is in silver and f...

Arcanaut Unleashes their Upcoming “Experimental” Bonehead and Tiger Sharc Worn & Wound
Dec 28, 2023

Arcanaut Unleashes their Upcoming “Experimental” Bonehead and Tiger Sharc

If you’ve been following along on the website and podcast over the last several months, you already know about how much I enjoy Arcanaut, the small independent watchmaker based in Denmark. I reviewed my own Arc II Fordite earlier this year, a watch that, when it was all said and done, was likely my most worn of the year. We’ve also covered recent releases that are a bit more straightforward than their dials created with paint drippings from American auto factories. The latest news from Denmark, though, is strange enough that Arcanaut has put their next two pieces in the “Experimental” category, and if the avant-garde nature of their previous work is appealing, these are likely to scratch a similar itch.  The new watches coming to the Arc II platform in the third quarter of next year both incorporate a creative use of materials (the brand’s primary guiding principle) in exciting ways. First out of the gate, we’ve got the Bonehead, named for the marrow-like pattern on the dial. That dial is fully lumed, but that’s not really what makes it interesting. What makes it compelling is the manufacturing process devised by Arcanaut’s James Thompson, which involves combining electric blue discs of lume, aerospace grade aluminum foam, and industrial resin, which Arcanaut has used previously to bind together the non-traditional materials that go into each dial. The end result is a uniquely textured, full lume dial that should be pretty impressive in its final form.  T...

Seiko Looks to the Early 1970s for their Latest Speedtimer Release Worn & Wound
Seiko Looks Nov 27, 2023

Seiko Looks to the Early 1970s for their Latest Speedtimer Release

When we last checked in on Seiko’s Speedtimer line, we saw it in an unusual execution that made us think (fondly, for the most part) of funky watches from the 80s and 90s. Like their dive watches, Seiko’s chronographs have run the gamut over the years from the straight laced and traditional to the truly absurd, but unlike the brand’s dive watches, the chronos have never truly become ubiquitous. Nevertheless, there have been some wonderful chronograph designs from Seiko over the years, and a new release looks to a classic from the 1970s as inspiration. This one is just slightly more traditional than the reference linked above.  The SRQ047 is a three register chronograph with a tried and true “panda” dial execution. The white main dial here is a gentle cream color with a subtle vertical brushing, and blue-gray subdials each have raised outer rings on their perimeters, providing depth to the dial as a whole. The orange tipped chronograph second hand and panda layout are both callbacks to specific features from the vintage Speedtimer from 1972 that served as design inspiration.  The case is 42mm in stainless steel, and measures 14.6mm thick. It borrows its case lines as well as the unusual bracelet design from the original 1972 Speedtimer. The watch runs on the 8R48 automatic chronograph movement, which features both a column wheel and vertical clutch. It has 45 hours of power reserve with a minutes-hours-running seconds configuration at the 9, 6, and 3 positions. ...

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator Worn & Wound
Maen Oct 9, 2023

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator

MAEN Watches has relaunched their vintage inspired Skymaster 38 chronograph over the weekend, adding three new updated references to the collection, including a surprising limited edition. The Skymaster feels like a watch right in MAEN’s wheelhouse: a sports watch with an aesthetic that’s clearly inspired by the past, but executed at an incredibly high level with a surprising level of detail, all at a price point that makes these watches tough to ignore. I spent some time recently with MAEN’s Brooklyn 36 reference, an old school triple calendar, and was pleasantly surprised at the level of refinement on a watch that comes in at well under $1,000. The Skymaster, now in a MKIII version, contains many similar small details. There are two big changes with this third edition of the Skymaster 38. First, the watch now runs on the new Sellita SW510Mb manually wound movement, and the case has gone through a series of little adjustments to properly house it. Previous versions of the Skymaster used automatic movements, so the inclusion of a manually wound caliber here represents a significant change, and really plays into the heritage angle of a release like this.  Secondly, in addition to offering a 12 hour bezel, MAEN is now making the Skymaster with an optional tachymeter bezel as well. The more prominent tachymeter bezel changes the appearance of the Skymaster dramatically, and should prove popular with collectors who are after a more traditionally styled racing chronograp...

Seiko Adds New Enamel and Urushi Lacquer Dials to their Presage Craftsmanship Series Worn & Wound
Seiko Adds New Enamel Sep 18, 2023

Seiko Adds New Enamel and Urushi Lacquer Dials to their Presage Craftsmanship Series

Seiko has been bringing the heat (quite literally) with sophisticated and labor-intensive dials to its mid-level lines like Presage. Last week we saw a slew of releases celebrating the 110th anniversary of the Laurel, Seiko’s first watch. The headliner was the Presage SPB401 and its enamel dial. Today we see enamel and lacquer make their way to the Presage collection in the form of three new references. The changes don’t stop there, though; there’s more to these watches than new dials. In a break from the current porcelain dials in the Craftsmanship Series, the new SPB403 features a white enamel dial courtesy of Mitsuru Yokasawa and Co. The dial layout on these references has been simplified with thin stick hour markers (as opposed to thin roman numerals). This results in a more versatile watch and allows the color and material to take center stage. In a nice touch, the chapter ring is further subdivided into sixths, corresponding to the movement’s 3Hz beat rate. Of the three, the SPB403 is the most classic-looking and comes on a five link bracelet with Seiko’s super-hard coating. The SPB405 (black dial) and SPB407 (green dial) incorporate the ancient art of lacquering into the Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series. Made from the sap of the Urushi tree (Rhus verniciflua, found primarily in China and Japan), Japanese lacquer is notoriously expensive and highly prized. Master Usshu Tamura and his team at Seiko have developed a method that, unlike enamel, allows the la...

Bravur Releases the La Vuelta III, the Third and Final Leg in their 2023 Grand Tour Series Worn & Wound
Bravur Aug 29, 2023

Bravur Releases the La Vuelta III, the Third and Final Leg in their 2023 Grand Tour Series

This past weekend, the cycling world turned its attention to Spain for the start of the Vuelta a España. One the most prestigious Grand Tours, the Vuelta takes riders through the Pyrenees as they race towards Madrid over the course of 23 days. At the end of the race, which consists of 21 day-long stages, the rider with the lowest aggregate time is crowned the winner and wears the famous red jersey. While the watch world is often linked to motorsports, we have seen meaningful partnerships with cycling as of late. To commemorate the start of this year’s Vuelta, Sweden-based Bravur Watches has released its third and final addition to the Grand Tour chronograph series, the La Vuelta III. Housed in a 38.2mm (46.3mm lug-to-lug) PVD-coated stainless steel case, the new Vuelta III really leans into using red accents to both pay homage to the Vuelta lead jersey and establish a distinct aesthetic. The subdials – seconds at nine, hours at six, and minutes at three o-clock – are framed in red and recessed in a lower layer, as is the triangle at twelve o-clock (which Bravur says represents the flag at 1 km remaining). In another nod to cycling, the red band around the edge of the dial is subtly textured to resemble racing tires.  Inside beats the Sellita SW511, an automatic chronograph movement that features Côte de Genéve and perlé decoration, rhodium plating, and heated blue screws. Owners can full-send on the red theme by pairing the watch with a red rubber strap or pare ...

Cartier Watches for Men Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Aug 14, 2023

Cartier Watches for Men Buyer's Guide

Once dubbed “The King of Jewelers and the Jeweler of Kings” by no less a personage than King Edward VII of England, Cartier is regarded by many watch aficionados as a jewelry house first and a watchmaker second - and a watchmaker prone to feminine, jewel-bedecked watches at that. Historically, however, nothing could be further from the truth. Cartier’s horological roots run even deeper than its high-jewelry history, and the French-Swiss luxury powerhouse has contributed some of the most historic and influential watch designs in the world, many of them aimed at men long before their appeal expanded to women.  Family Foundations  Louis-Francois Cartier (above, 1819-1904) apprenticed under master watchmaker Adolphe Piccard before founding his eponymous company, at the age of 28, in Piccard’s Parisian workshop in 1847. As Cartier’s watches and jewelry found widespread success, and an esteemed client list that included royalty like Princess Mathilde, cousin of Napoleon III, the firm moved to more luxurious quarters in the Palais-Royal District and eventually to the current world headquarters at 13 Rue de la Paix. Louis-Francois passed the reins of the growing company to his son Alfred in 1874, and Alfred brought in his sons to succeed him toward the end of the 19th Century. It was this third generation of family ownership, under brothers Pierre, Jacques, and Louis Cartier, that truly catapulted Cartier from the boundaries of France to the world stage. While Jacqu...

Wempe Adds a Trio of New Watches to their Iron Walker Collection Worn & Wound
Wempe Aug 8, 2023

Wempe Adds a Trio of New Watches to their Iron Walker Collection

For the better part of two decades, Wempe has been producing high-quality watches out of their home in Glashütte, Germany. Three new models from their Iron Walker collection have been released, each exhibiting the Vorliebe that our Teutonic cousins have for precision, beauty, and exceptional quality. The first to debut in the new Iron Walker collection is the Diver. Taking inspiration from the steel constructions that defined the era of imagination in 1920’s New York, the Diver marries the simplicity of a good watch and the beauty of a great watch into one. At 42mm, it’s a robust size but the overall finish, such as the diminutive day date and the lumed hands, help to keep it from feeling too bulky. The Diver comes in two colorways (blue and black), is water-resistant to 30 bars, and runs on a ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, giving the wearer up to 50 hours of power reserve.  Next up in the Iron Walker collection is Tide. Mixing maritime influences to the collection, this watch is as much about function as it is about form. While one could enjoy the balance of blue and black against the steel case alone, the real beauty is the internal mechanism of this watch. For life on the coast, the Tide’s rotating bezel offers maximum visibility on how much time will elapse between the next low or high tide. Similar to the Diver above, the Tide shares similar specs, such as an ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, 30 bars of water-resistance, and lumed hands and hour markers. Last, ...

Bulova Relaunches the Jet Star, with their High Frequency Precisionist Movement, in Three Striking Dial Variants Worn & Wound
Bulova Relaunches Jul 20, 2023

Bulova Relaunches the Jet Star, with their High Frequency Precisionist Movement, in Three Striking Dial Variants

Good design always comes back in cycles. Whether it’s the revival of midcentury furniture or Neoclassical architecture, there’s an undeniable truth when it comes to design: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.  Watch brands are surprisingly good at acknowledging – even celebrating – past designs, only making small updates for better performance or tweaking the finer details to refine the overall product. Bulova’s release of their reimagined Jet Star is one such example of this. Taking inspiration from the archival 1970’s Jet Star, the new Bulova 1973 Jet Star has made incremental updates to the overall design, preserving what works and making small improvements along the way. The stainless steel case remains as angular and interesting to the eye as the original, but has since been updated with a trio of colorways for a variety of options. Customers can now choose between a sporty steel timepiece with red and blue accents, a gold-toned Jet Star with rich brown and gold tones, or a not-so-subtle red and steel model. While the aesthetic of the watch could be right out of the 70’s, the internals of this watch are anything but retro. Utilizing a Precisionist movement, this quartz caliber vibrates at a remarkable 262kHz, making for a gorgeously smooth second hand that sweeps across the dial, similar to a mechanical watch. This unparalleled accuracy punches well above the weight class and price point of the Jet Star. Each of the three references in this collection ...

Bravur Releases the La Grande Boucle III Chronograph, their Latest in an Ongoing Series of Cycling Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Bravur Jul 4, 2023

Bravur Releases the La Grande Boucle III Chronograph, their Latest in an Ongoing Series of Cycling Inspired Watches

Every year, the Tour de France captivates the imagination and competitive spirit of those who are interested in cycling. While many Americans probably associate the sport with Lance Armstrong, there is an entire population of cycling enthusiasts who watch with bated breath as some of the top athletes in the sport traverse 2,115 miles over 23 days across France. It’s a spectacle of dedication, athleticism, and, yes, a bit of national pride. Swedish watch brand Bravur has tapped into the enthusiasm of the sport with the release of their series of watches dedicated to the Grand Tours, the top three most prestigious cycling events of the year. With the 2023 Tour de France upon us, Bravur has just released their third edition of Le Grand Boucle. The latest in the series to honor the Gallic event, Bravur has taken design elements of previous versions, while making the Le Grand Boucle III entirely new.  Starting with the visuals, the latest from Bravur is a vibrant pairing of yellow (long associated with the Tour winner) and a ceramic black coating on the case, giving it a sporty look that still remains sophisticated. The small details of this watch show that Bravur has done their homework, including the frosted white dial features and dot markers, reminiscent of the legendary polka dot patterns found on the King of the Mountains jersey, awarded to the race’s top climber. Further design themes that nod to the Tour’s history include an inverted “13” on the chapter ring,...

The Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports Collection Returns with a Brand New Dial Color Palette Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports Collection Returns May 11, 2023

The Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports Collection Returns with a Brand New Dial Color Palette

A dynamic duo is a way to describe a harmonious connection between two people that tend to create positive results when their unique traits are aligned together. Think Kobe and Shaq, Rick and Morty, or Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo, aka Daft Punk. This phenomenon can also be found by way of successful collaborations between brands across different industries. Kith and New Balance, as well as The James Brand and Topo Designs come to mind. One ongoing collaboration in particular that happens to intersect our horological universe is none other than the one between Seiko and Rowing Blazers. Since their initial collaborative release in 2021, they’ve consistently found a way to combine the witty design personality of Rowing Blazers and everything we adore about a steel Seiko sports watch. In timely fashion with Summer just around the corner, Seiko and Rowing Blazers have teamed up once again to deliver a new set of dial colors to their Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports collection. This new release adds a fresh palette of colors to the entire collection. Like the previous release, the Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports is supported by three vibrant colors – a pastel pink, deep purple and canary yellow. The three dial colors host a set of black hour markers with T-shaped silver accents. From above, the hour markers look one dimensional, but a side profile reveals an angular quality that slopes towards the center of the dial. The remaining reference in this set is...

Swatch Expands their Art Journey Collection with Three New Watches Inspired by Jean-Michel Basquiat Worn & Wound
Omega May 11, 2023

Swatch Expands their Art Journey Collection with Three New Watches Inspired by Jean-Michel Basquiat

For the last year, Swatch has existed primarily as the brand that makes and sells the MoonSwatch, their enormous, crossover hit made in partnership with Omega. It’s tough to underestimate the impact of the MoonSwatch on the watch world, mostly because its impact transcends the watch world. Your friends and family who are not part of the hobby, don’t read this site and others like it, and may not even own a watch, are almost certainly aware of the MoonSwatch. They’ve seen an advertisement for it, or have heard about it on the news, or perhaps they’ve stumbled onto the impressive MoonSwatch displays in a Swatch store, only to be told that the watches aren’t actually available to buy. Swatch has recently upped the ante somewhat on the MoonSwatch front by offering extremely limited versions with gold plated seconds hands, and it has me (and others) wondering if the hype for these watches has crested, and longing for Swatch to go back to making really cool Swatches like the ones so many of us grew up with.  The truth is, Swatch never stopped making exactly those kinds of watches, but they’ve been somewhat lost in the hysteria for the MoonSwatch. Now, though, comes a series of watches that I think might actually rival the MoonSwatch in terms of enthusiast interest, at least in some quarters. The latest entry in the Swatch Art Journey collection (that has already seen releases this year with watches based on pieces by Roy Lichtenstein, René Magritte, and others) is ...

Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Mar 30, 2023

Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection

Whenever a new watch is introduced, there’s usually an aspect of the design that jumps out, whether it’s a stunning dial, unique case architecture, or a gorgeous movement. And sometimes, you find all three in one watch. The new Speake-Marin Ripples Date is that watch. This release remixes the multi-angled razzle-dazzle that you find in … ContinuedThe post Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Alpina brings four new models to their Alpiner Extreme range Time+Tide
Alpina brings four new models Mar 27, 2023

Alpina brings four new models to their Alpiner Extreme range

Alpina adds four new models for 2023 to their newly relaunched Alpiner Extreme line. Three of the new models feature a first for the Alpiner Extreme: an integrated bracelet. The unique Regulator Automatic sees two new versions, limited to 888 examples apiece. It’s time again for Watches & Wonders, where watch brands trot out their … ContinuedThe post Alpina brings four new models to their Alpiner Extreme range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Worn & Wound Team Picks Their Favorite New Audemars Piguet Novelties Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Novelties Audemars Piguet recently Feb 8, 2023

The Worn & Wound Team Picks Their Favorite New Audemars Piguet Novelties

Audemars Piguet recently unveiled their first (very large) batch of new releases for 2023, and if your Instagram feeds are anything like ours, they absolutely took over. As expected, there were plenty of new Royal Oaks on display, and in a variety of materials and platforms. We also saw an expansion of the Code 11.59 collection, including an entirely new dial motif and a metal that many collectors have been waiting for. Now that the Worn & Wound editorial team has had a chance to wade through all the new watches, we thought we’d pick our favorites among the latest novelties.  Blake Buettner I’ll admit I have a slight soft spot for so-called ‘Jumbo’ Royal Oaks. That is, Royal Oaks that follow the original template of the 5402ST put forth back in 1972: a slim 39mm case with the “AP” at 6 o’clock where it belongs. I also have a penchant for steel sport watches (well documented in these pages) and the Royal Oak arguably opened the door for the high-end category of the genre. It’s a watch I had been enormously enamored with upon my entry to the hobby, though that enthusiasm has waned in recent years as the watch found itself on a moon-bound trajectory in the market, and an ever increasing variety of precious metal variants that, while handsome, deviate a bit too far from the simple, approachable(ish) nature of the original (for my taste, at least).  That said, the soft spot remains. When a new generation of the watch was announced last year, the 16202, in cele...

Game recognises (wrist) game: The NFL’s elite quarterbacks and their watch collections Time+Tide
Aug 21, 2022

Game recognises (wrist) game: The NFL’s elite quarterbacks and their watch collections

With autumn just around the corner, it’s time for America’s favourite sport to start ramping up again. The NFL preseason is already under way, and along with the excitement of the game on the field, we at Time + Tide are looking forward to the new season’s wrist game from the league’s top quarterbacks. Football’s … ContinuedThe post Game recognises (wrist) game: The NFL’s elite quarterbacks and their watch collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

From Tom Brady to Lewis Hamilton, how do IWC get the GOATs as their ambassadors? Time+Tide
Hamilton how do IWC get Jul 6, 2021

From Tom Brady to Lewis Hamilton, how do IWC get the GOATs as their ambassadors?

Before Lewis Hamilton was sponsored by IWC through his Mercedes AMG team, he had only won one Formula One Championship. How many has he won since becoming the brand’s ambassador in 2013? An incredible six, only once finishing outside the top three drivers. Was it pure chance that IWC began their relationship with him just … ContinuedThe post From Tom Brady to Lewis Hamilton, how do IWC get the GOATs as their ambassadors? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Introduces the Tank Must de Cartier in Steel SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Capitalizing Apr 7, 2021

Cartier Introduces the Tank Must de Cartier in Steel

The Cartier Tank is quite possibly the most iconic rectangular wristwatch, matched only in its longevity and enduring appeal by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Capitalizing on the popularity of the Tank, Cartier has reintroduced the Tank Must de Cartier name as an entire model family at Watches & Wonders 2021. Initial Thoughts The Tank Must de Cartier was born in 1977, in the throes of the quartz crisis. The Must de Cartier was the jeweler’s answer to the upheaval within the industry – it marked the first time the Tank was produced at an industrial scale and was also the first time the model was not produced in precious metal. The Tank Must de Cartier borrowed the shape of the Tank Louis Cartier – whereas the brancards of the 1917 original were flat, those of the Tank Louis Cartier are gently rounded. I am a fan of the new collection. Not only is the Must de Cartier probably the most recognizable of the Tank range, but the new watches are handsome and a surprisingly good value proposition. The new Tank Must de Cartier is a comprehensive family that is sure to become a bestseller – not only is there a model at every price point, from entry-level steel to more glitzy diamond-paved variants, but the models are also available in a dizzying number of sizes and movement configurations. Tank Must de Cartier The classic silver-dialed model with Roman numerals, railroad minutes track, and blued steel hands is available in steel in three sizes: small, large, and extra-large. ...

INTRODUCING: The first Seiko we’ve seen on a bund strap – the Limited Edition SJE085 Alpinist is a killer version of their first sports watch Time+Tide
Seiko we’ve seen Mar 12, 2021

INTRODUCING: The first Seiko we’ve seen on a bund strap – the Limited Edition SJE085 Alpinist is a killer version of their first sports watch

When Seiko launched their new, vintage-inspired sub range of the Alpinist, we shared the three standard models in our story here, but we’ve kept the star under wraps. Here’s the fourth smaller sibling, the limited edition SJE085 Alpinist 1959 recreation, vintage purity on a surprising bund strap. While it might look like mere tweaks to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The first Seiko we’ve seen on a bund strap – the Limited Edition SJE085 Alpinist is a killer version of their first sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.