Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Independent Watchmakers which you should know, but may not
Six Independent Watchmakers who you may not know: Ch. Frodsham, McGonigle, Petermann-Bédat, Sylvian Pinaud, Tulloch and James C. Pellaton.
23,966 articles · 225 videos found · page 293 of 807
Deployant
Six Independent Watchmakers who you may not know: Ch. Frodsham, McGonigle, Petermann-Bédat, Sylvian Pinaud, Tulloch and James C. Pellaton.
Revolution
In another point scored for contactless luxury retailing, Net-a-Porter now offers Audemars Piguet watches, starting with 12 in precious metals.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Kaz and Mike celebrate 2 years of TBWS and share a handful of watches they hope to see discounted during the wave of Black Friday sales. What do you have your eye on this year? Be sure to share the watches you're hoping to hunt down this holiday season.
Deployant
The Chief Editor makes his picks from the crop of Baselworld 2018 watches. All likely to cause heart palpitations from your bank manager. Selection from Rolex, Grand Seiko, Andreas Strehler, H. Moser and Patek Philippe.
Revolution
Suzanne’s note to Santa isn’t just a list of watches, but a list of watches in very specific case/strap/dial combinations. Rudolph had better be good at helping take quick notes; just ONE day to Christmas now!
Worn & Wound
French microbrand Serica has toiled since 2019 to create an aesthetic that makes their watches instantly recognizable—rounded design elements with precise proportions, even wildly varying models like their field watch, diver, and stadium-shaped Parade contain unifying hallmarks: carefully considered dial balance, 1970s-esque styling, and prominent bezel designs all signal a Serica timepiece. Over the past seven years, they’ve continued to refine their watches from a mechanical standpoint, too, introducing complications and added robustness to withstand tool watch duties. The 8315 line of GMT models is perhaps their most function-forward design, first debuting in 2022. Like most Serica watches, it favors a cleanly balanced dial, meaning no date function—ideal for a travel watch, which is the intended use of the 8315, earning it the “Travel Chronometer” name. Now, Serica unveils a slick new colorway for the popular model: Golden Green. The 8315-3 Golden Green doesn’t purport to be a grand deviation from the Travel Chronometer formula. In fact, it bears the same internals and basic design as its line-mates, primarily the Swiss chronometer-certified Soprod C125 automatic movement, which allows for 42 hours of power reserve and 200 meters of water resistance. This movement powers the GMT hand and “caller” GMT function. This gives it a simpler use case than the more complicated local jumping “flyer” GMT seen in watches like the Tudor Black Bay GMT; basicall...
Fratello
When I think of TAG Heuer, I think of racing, chronographs, and the iconic Monaco. So when the brand invited us to the 2026 Spanish Grand Prix in Madrid and asked me which watch I wanted to borrow for the weekend, I immediately knew it would be the new titanium Monaco. It’s one of those […] Visit Hands-On: The TAG Heuer Monaco Finds Its Ideal Match In Titanium to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is the brand’s hallmark aviator’s watch, introduced in 1938 and characterised by an oversized crown and a central pointer hand that indicates the date around the perimeter. However, the collection includes more than one Big Crown Pointer Date, with variants defined by their movements and design cues. The model […]
Monochrome
PS Horology is an independent Swiss watch brand founded in 2022 by Peter Speake, a watchmaker well-known to our readers. The Tsuba collection, an integrated-style sporty-chic watch named after the Japanese sword guard, was introduced in 2025 with the Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son, boasting a distinctive case design inspired by the symbolism of the […]
WatchAdvice
Glashütte Original’s SeaQ is certainly a luxury dive watch, but how luxurious can a dive watch get? Let’s find out! What We Love: An extremely bold, tough build Incredible legibility Beautiful movement & open caseback What We Don’t: Mobile but hulking presence nonetheless Unidirectional bezel feels too tight Is there such thing as overkill? Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Of all the archetypes of German culture, perhaps none is as universally recognised as its knack for over-engineering. Everything from Mercedes-Benz to Mettbrötchen is carefully considered, measured and executed in a manner as precise as it is complex. It’s become so quintessentially German that it’s also an international stereotype, with the intricacies of the country’s industry worshipped just as readily as they are playfully mocked. One industry that constantly walks the line between precision and complexity is horology, where brands like Glashütte Original uphold the values of German watchmaking through their timepieces. Typically, this leans towards the artistic side of things, as seen in recent Senator releases like the Aventurine and Cherry Blossom models from the Atelierauftrag line. But that doesn’t mean Glashütte Original has forgotten its engineering identity – not by a long shot. Meet the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date, the brand’s premier dive watch. A feature-laden, robust timepiece, you might be...
Worn & Wound
As Direnzo heads toward their tenth anniversary next year, they’ve just introduced their very first GMT equipped watch, the DRZ 08 Cosmonaire. Inspired by the future oriented design of the Space Age, the Cosmonaire is, like virtually every GMT watch, conceived as a travel tool at heart, and through a variety of dial treatments really takes on different personalities depending on how it is executed. It’s filled with little details that are sure to be appreciated by enthusiasts as well, the type that might go unnoticed by the more casual observer. Direnzo describes the case design of the Cosmonaire as having a “soft geometry,” which is highlighted by an elliptical bezel that is curved and thinner on the 3 and 9 o’clock sides than those at 12 and 6 o’clock. It gives the watch a subtly organic feel and aids in helping it achieve the desired flowing profile. It’s visually interesting and I think Direnzo deserves credit here for trying something genuinely different with a slightly higher degree of difficulty. According to the brand, they were going after a look that was reminiscent of industrial design in the 1960s and 1970s, and there’s definitely something about this watch that makes it feel like it would have been at home on the wrist of a NASA employee working Mission Control during that time period. The dial is bowl shaped, which adds additional depth and visual complexity to the presentation, along with the applied hour markers and an engraved lume fill...
Fratello
Direnzo introduces the DRZ 08 Cosmonaire as its first GMT watch. Conceived for travel, it pairs a second time zone with a distinctive case. The design, which includes an elliptical bezel and a layered dial, draws from the height of the Space Age and makes this watch feel equally ready for intercontinental travel and daily […] Visit Roaring Through The Space Age With The Direnzo DRZ 08 Cosmonaire GMT to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard has become adept at translating the design language of pricey independent watchmaking into affordable watches, and the best proof of that is the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur. Modelled on the Vianney Halter Antiqua perpetual calendar, the Futur Anterieur is a regulator-style watch powered by two separate automatic movements. Named after Vianney Halter’s collection of steampunk watches, Futur Antérieur is Louis Erard’s third outing with the independent watchmaker, and is arguably a more sophisticated version of the preceding collaboration. While both share the same inspiration, the Futur Antérieur tangibly embodies the Antiqua, reproducing the feel of the original at a fraction of the price. Initial thoughts The Futur Antérieur is clearly an affordable watch that is not an Antiqua, but it is appealing. It captures the ambience of the Antiqua well. The shape is similar, and even the feel on the wrist. In this price segment this stands out as one of the more interesting offerings. Though this costs more than preceding collaboration editions, this is arguably better value. More broadly, the Futur Antérieur illustrates the growing sophistication of Louis Erard’s collaborations. They started as stock models with a new dial superimposed, while the Futur Anterieur is a new model conceived from the ground up. It’s also worth noting the details that replicate the Antiqua, like the chamfered edges on the case and bezel, and the stepped, two-to...
Monochrome
While the Tangente hand-wound undoubtedly remains the most emblematic watch you can get from Nomos, and one of the most accessible models too, there’s another fairly priced option from the brand that has long been a fan’s favourite: the Club. A simple, fresher, sportier take on the brand’s watchmaking and design codes, it was launched […]
Fratello
Last week, I reviewed the new titanium Hermès Cape Cod. It’s a great, more masculine, sportier version of a typically more feminine, dressier watch, but it maintains its quirky, Chaîne d’Ancre-bracelet-inspired design. It is certainly a surprising release, especially considering the model’s previous iterations. However, it perfectly fits Hermès’s approach to creating designs that feel […] Visit Why I Bought The Hermès Cape Cod to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Orient introduces the Kamasu GMT, bringing its own automatic movement, 200m water resistance, and familiar dive watch design to the affordable GMT market.
Worn & Wound
We’ve arrived at the time of year where we can finally highlight my favorite seasonal watch niche. Skull watches, most often created to underscore the philosophy of memento mori (an acknowledgement of our mortality) tend to pop up in October to coincide with Halloween and Day of the Dead celebrations. This is a watch design rabbit hole that has snuck up on me over the years, but if you think about it, it makes a certain amount of sense that a skull represented on a dial surface could be an interesting platform for a variety of craft techniques. We’ll have a (long) list of some of our favorite skull watches on the website a little later this month. But today, we’ll focus on the latest addition to the skull watches canon, the Louis Erard Dia De Los Muertos Black. This is a fairly straightforward skull watch, with a bold and colorful skull clad in floral motifs dominating the dial. This limited edition (only 10 are being made) has a black coated case and black dial, which feels appropriate and also properly frames the colorful skull. The floral motifs on the skull are recessed, and the brand’s own images suggest a skull design with subtle depth when explored closely. The brand’s logo is blended into the skull at around 12:00, and the name of the brand appears across the skull’s teeth at 6:00. A total of 6 color transfers have been placed on the skull applique, with the dominant tones being white, gray, orange and yellow. The hands are pear shaped and anthracit...
Monochrome
The Minerva Exo Tourbillon Skeleton marks the manufacture’s transition to a standalone brand structure, dropping the previous dual Montblanc branding to focus entirely on its own heritage. Limited to just 18 pieces in rose gold, the watch reveals incredible details of the hand-finished, skeletonised calibre M18.69, combined with classical design elements like the agate cameo […]
Fratello
Oris returns to ocean conservation with the Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition. This new 41.5mm dive watch draws inspiration from underwater kelp forests and their role in marine ecosystems. Limited to 1,000 pieces, it combines the familiar Aquis Date design with a textured green dial that evokes the colors and textures of swaying kelp. […] Visit Oris Introduces The Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Solar Hiker returns for 2026 with two new colorways, updated straps, and a new custom carrying case. A triple-brand collaboration between Vaer, Topo Designs, and Worn & Wound, the Solar Hiker brings together expertise in watchmaking, outdoor goods design, and storytelling. Built for adventure, it combines the legibility of a classic field watch with the durability of a dive watch, all powered by the sun. Limited to 1,200 pieces. The post The Vaer x Topo x W&W; Solar Hiker Returns for 2026 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
We know the trend of all black watches well – what was once a novelty has now become a regular part of most catalogs, so perhaps we can no longer call this a trend but an industry staple. I think the monochromatic concept really works on many different levels. It can make a watch ultra stealthy and discrete. For some models, it just looks sleek and sexy. For others, it can actually serve to bring out the best in the design. On the other end of the spectrum, we have models with so much tone on tone on tone – lacking any contrast through materials or textures – you can barely read them. These watches have understandably undergone some scrutiny. However, I find it a cheeky commentary on the fact we don’t really need our timepieces for any utilitarian purpose, and a color palette can simply be a design choice.So, in typical Ressence fashion, we have a twist on the all-black aesthetic with a deep blue hue the brand is calling Dark Night. If you’re familiar with Ressence, you know the brand is anything but motivated by trends – the opposite. This is a brand who literally came into being by asking the question, what if someone were to build a blueprint for a watch for the first time today without any constraints of what a watch should look like? The result was the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) offering human-centric readability with a layout engineered to look and process like a two-dimensional digital screen lacking traditional hands or a crown. Instead, the ...
Fratello
Last month, Orient launched the new Flusso, an integrated-bracelet sports watch inspired by the brand’s historic Super King (“SK”) models. The watch combines vintage influences with a contemporary design language, signaling a fresh direction for the Japanese manufacturer. I covered the launch when it was announced, but shortly after that article went live, the watch […] Visit Getting Some Hands-On Time With The New Orient Flusso to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know Timex and Noah have announced the latest in their ongoing series of collaborations, the Noah x Timex Boatswain. Here, the two have taken their Ellipse-style case and swapped out the dial. This makes for the third release from the two brands to make use of this case style, after the Oval Moon — with an oversized moonphase — and the Lighthouse watch — whose standout design detail was a sketch-like image of a lighthouse across the dial. In this case, both those details have been dropped in favor of a reined in nautical theme, which is most evident when looking at the inner track ring on the dial, which is patterned on a ship's rope. Beyond that detail, the Boatswain is, as a watch (dare I say it), rather conventional, with painted Roman Numeral indices, a slightly creamy ivory dial, and your choice of a gold tone or stainless steel case. The watches are double signed, with the Timex logo at twelve, and the Noah script wordmark at six. Hands and dial printing are, in all cases here, black. The case itself retains the same dimensions as previous releases, measuring 31mm x 35mm. The watches are water resistant to 30 meters, and come fitted on textured leather straps; brown with a stainless steel pin buckle on the stainless steel case, and black with a gold tone pin buckle. The straps are fixed to the case by a centrally mounted pin and collar bar, so strap changes are possible, if a little fiddly. As one would expect these watches are quartz. The Noah x Timex ...
Fratello
Contrary to what many watch enthusiasts think, a watch’s design usually starts with the caliber, not the case or the dial. Most of the time, the movement is the limiting factor that a creative team needs to build a design around. But there are multiple ways of solving the puzzle. One involves creating a different […] Visit Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic Continues The Loco Series In Style to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo returns to Carlo Crocco’s original 1980 design, when Hublot was the name of a watch made by MDM Genève. The Tributo’s 38 mm gold case restores the original 12-screw bezel, while a Zenith-derived automatic replaces quartz beneath an austere black dial. The yellow gold variant sticks close to the original design, while its white gold sibling pairs a black onyx dial with blackened bezel screws for a high-contrast monochromatic look. Initial thoughts While today Hublot is almost synonymous with the Big Bang and other large, sometimes extravagant watches, the brand’s origin as a single model made by MDM Genève is rooted in Italian elegance. The original quartz-powered model from 1980 was the first watch to pair a precious metal case with a rubber strap, a then-unheard-of configuration that was nonetheless perfectly suited to la dolce vita in the Italian sun. The Classic Fusion Tributo honours founder Carlo Crocco’s original design, complete with 12 bezel screws and a low-profile feel on the wrist, while being sized up to contemporary standards and equipped with a competent automatic movement courtesy of sister brand Zenith. The white gold version’s onyx dial, an upgrade relative to both the original and the black lacquer of the 2023 remake, is another difference that taps into the ongoing stone dial trend. But it does so in a low-key way that makes sense for the design and doesn’t feel faddish. Curiously, the yellow gold version s...
Hodinkee
What We Know There's a new miniature watch in town, and it's the Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Chain. Inspired by a 1955 Duoplan model nicknamed the "Chain" for its "braided" gold-link bracelet, the new high-jewelry watch reinterprets that design with a sculptural 18K pink-gold bangle. It features diagonal bands that alternate between black HyCeram (a high-gloss ceramic material) and rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, offering a contemporary take on the original's sinuous chain motif. The bangle is cast in a mold made specifically for each watch, with 36 cavities filled by hand with liquid HyCeram. A master gem-setter then drills and sets the alternating diagonal bands with brilliant-cut diamonds. The finished bangle frames a diminutive watch with a black lacquered dial, which has a "JL" monogram above the hour and minute hands, all surrounded by a diamond bezel—bringing its overall diamond weight to an approximate 2.73 carats. But despite all the jewelry surrounding it, the real star is the Calibre 101, the world's smallest manually wound mechanical movement. The story dates back to the Duoplan, which was invented and patented in 1925, before JLC introduced the Calibre 101 in 1929 using the same two-level architecture (hence the name "Duoplan"). At just 14mm long, 4.8mm wide, and 3.4mm thick, the movement weighs barely a gram, and remarkably, its dimensions and architecture remain unchanged nearly a century later. Today, each movement takes around 40 hours to assemble by hand, maki...
Worn & Wound
If you were around the micro/indie watch world in 2021, you almost certainly remember the release of the first Ming collaboration with Massena LAB. It was a limited edition that sold out incredibly fast (as most Ming releases did in those early days) and was notable for a few things beyond what I think is still an objectively cool design. First, this release came at the height of pandemic drop culture, and the quick sell through angered many Instagram commenters and there was a memorable backlash toward both brands (though I recall Ming taking the brunt of it). You could even argue that this release marked a sort of inflection point, and we began to see brands (including Ming) take steps with future releases to be more fair minded about how pieces are allocated. Second, when these watches eventually did make it to owners, there were a handful of notable and widely reported QC/mechanical issues (which of course were resolved by the brands, but still, not the cherry-on-top anyone was hoping for). Was the launch a catastrophe? Not really. Examples of these watches still routinely sell for well over retail on the secondary market. They’re one of a handful of releases from this era that really mark a specific moment in time. Ming and Massena are back with a second collaboration, at a time when both brands find themselves in a very different sort of situation. Which is just to say, there’s been a lot of growth in these last several years. When was the last time, for instan...
Hodinkee
What We Know We are six years into the reign of the Legacy Machine EVO, a sportier version of MB&F;'s most "traditional" (and I use that term loosely) watch designs, which had the added benefit of higher water resistance, a built-in FlexRing shock protection system, slightly less delicate dials, and a different case design that lends itself to the rubber straps. We've had the Perpetual EVO, Sequential EVO, Sequential Flyback EVO, Split Escapement EVO, and LM101 EVO. Now, the original Legacy Machine, the LM No. 1, joins the collection with two case materials: titanium and a limited-edition rose gold. It seems like case sizes are the most hotly debated topic these days, and MB&F; has never shied away from a large case. It's needed to accomplish the dramatic design and depth of the floating balance that hovers over the dual time display (now in sunburst-polished black, flat subdials). The cases are 42mm by 16.8mm, with a 52mm lug-to-lug and 18mm lug width. This brings one major update to the EVO series: these watches now have quick-change rubber straps, made possible by a case redesign (so this won't apply to swapping into other EVO series models). Another update: the original's vertically moving power reserve indicator is now more traditional, rotating side to side and pointing at an inclined scale. One of my favorite things about the Legacy Machine is that it's so wild in the front and more traditional in the back. The movement is still the Jean-François Mogard-designed cali...
WatchAdvice
Glashütte Original have finally expanded their Senator Chronograph line, but are they exactly what enthusiasts ordered? Let’s find out! What We Love: Clean, distinctive aesthetics Surprisingly wearable Impeccable movement What We Don’t: Issues screwing down the crown Flyback oscillates a lot when activated Can a dress watch dress down? Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 As I mentioned during my visit to the Glashütte Original manufacture last year, the watchmaking town of Glashütte is a remarkably small place. This serves as a double-edged sword. On one hand, you’re able to take a comprehensive and condensed look at the defining history and characteristics of German horological craftsmanship. On the other, it’s all too easy for brands to be overshadowed by their next-door neighbours, even when they’re among the best in the region. Such has been the case for Glashütte Original. While I won’t get into the Ship of Theseus philosophical riddle underpinning the tug-of-war between them and their neighbour, A. Lange & Söhne, the Swatch Group marque has often found itself overlooked, somewhat unfairly so. In recent years, though, the narrative has changed. Drawing on its vastly accumulated and inherited knowledge, Glashütte Original has defined itself as a brand that stands apart from its competitors, in Germany and beyond. With fine craftsmanship, Saxon design and a surprisingly thoughtful p...
Monochrome
After the recent European Cricket Special Edition, Rado once again turns to cricket for its latest Captain Cook collaboration, working with Australian Cameron Green on a watch that brings several elements of the sport into its design. The watch keeps the familiar Captain Cook construction but wears a green-and-gold colour scheme and comes with a […]
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.